The Chassis Speedy's Garage Restoring a 3rd Gen 4Runner P14
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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This week I tackled the messy job of restoring the frame and chassis on the 3rd Gen 4Runner.
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Gotta put this series together in a playlist so it can be watched in order! What a great collection of information!
:) ruclips.net/p/PLWeMviIDMPN0cQgFZ5Oh3M6RGxCRXK-5b
Time for a new exhaust, the only old looking part underneath. Awesome job though 👏
Good to see Mrs. Speedy make a couple brief guest appearances again! Great detailed work in your project, as always! Thanks for posting.
This is amazing! Thank you for the entertainment and sharing the process
You’re from TN! Sweet! Greetings from Nashville.
Congratulations on a project superbly done! This is huge motivation for myself and countless others to get going on all our projects. I've got a 99 3rd gen that is also a keeper. I'm glad that I've had the opportunity to follow your channel! Thank you for all your time and efforts, as it truly has paid off! Take care my friend!
Hey just wanted to leave a comment, just found the channel and you have a beautiful 4 runner. I'm also restoring my 2002 3rd gen! Love the videos!
Love the detail. Now it's a challenge for me to do the same for my '98. Front suspension & wheel weels done the same when I installed the Tundra brake upgrade. Perhaps the inside of my bumpers have the worst rust even though its only surface rust. Appreciate the video!
Go for it!
Nice job!
The clean new fasteners and taping off brake lines etc. makes it look like the entire rear end was removed and cleaned up.
Looking super sweet man! Definitely going to get at least $240,000 for this truck. 😎👍🏽
Just found your channel. Just bought a 2002 4Runner Sport Edition and looking to spiff it up a bit. Good info!
Great job. Attention to detail. Amazing. Amazing.
Thank you very much!
That's a clean ride, would like to get one in 🇨🇦
Wow! You never half-a$$ anything. Well done! I have a 2000 4runner that I need to do this to, but I don't think I'm mentally prepared to disassemble the bumpers and all of the skid plates....that is a big job. I might be able to tackle it a piece at a time.
With the right tools, it's not too bad. I did lose 5 lbs though from all the climbing around under the truck lol.
Wow that came out amazing, nicely done Sir 👍😁
Wow! Looks incredible. I've been slowly doing some of this to mine over the last couple of years - the front skid plates, the roof rack (a pain to take off and put back on), the "spoiler" over the 3rd brake light, but this video motivates me to get at it and knock out more. Thanks for sharing the details of all of the materials you used and walking us through how you removed everything.
Go for it!
Thanks man, on my today list.
At the snap of a fingers it'd be nice to just drive over there and drop the truck off leave a note on the windshield come back in a month and hopefully my credit card is still active great job man definitely worth the drive out there I have two four runners 97 and a 2002 love them both more than my wife lol
Keep them coming man!
Nice Job. Looks Good
You did a amazing job!! I will try to do the same to mine.
the funny part is the old looked new haha rust? what rust? hahaha
This may be a repeated question, but what size bolts the hitch mount needs and where to buy them? I'll appreciate the help finding them.
Double check but my notes show it's these: BF12X1.25X30YLW
@@SpeedysGarage Sweet man, than you very much!
Beautiful
Thank you
While I’ve got you man, can I run something past you, so I have a 3rd gen, had a rear axle leak that leaked all over the left rear drum components, it was mid trip as diff the breather was half toast and that didn’t really help, so I think the shoe material swelled and then things got snug, was after 50 miles on the motorway I realised there was a faint smell of diff fluid and smoke pouring off the left rear drum, it was hot like real hot, quenched it with a service station water line and it was like I was putting out a bbq, fast forward post repairing diff seal and replacing all shoes and brake fitting kit, despite slackening the shoes I’m getting a drag as the left rear gets warm after a long run compared to the right, I didn’t change the wheel cylinder but given the heat I wonder if the internal seals got buggered and it’s now stiff and not releasing after brakes applied creating some heat, if I drive with very little brake input the drum doesn’t generate the same heat, you think the wheel cylinder got cooked?
Couldn't hurt, but I'd look at the drum for being out of round from heat.
@@SpeedysGarage that’s a great shout I hadn’t thought of that
nice job!
Let me know when to send my 97 limitrd to get this treatment 🤔
where did you source the paperwork on the bumpers? The Directions???
would you be interested in doing another 4runner like this in the future? I am looking for someone who can do one like this for myself.
It's quite a bit of work but maybe.
Nice job, what brand are the wheels?
Would you consider charging for this service?
Do you know by chance the part #’s for the hardware on the diff housing for parking brake & brake hard lines
Not handy but you can find online parts diagrams that have the pn.
👍👍👍
buen trabajo
Chrome polish while bumper was off...?
Sorta hard to work with the bumpers off the truck. I'm actually thinking of replacing the chrome with painted versions that match the wheels?
Got as much ocd as me
With all that effort taking parts apart why didn't you use POR-15 for a proper restoration and protection? It's more expensive but way better than the spray can Rustoleum.
Too many mixed reviews on the POR-15 product. We don't get much salt here as well so not worth the brush on mess. I do the Rustoleum treatment about every 10 years.
Just a note on "upgrading" the fasteners to grade 10.9.... 🔩 Stronger isn't always stronger. I know, it's a weird thing to say. But in an engineered assembly, the failure point is carefully studied and the grade chosen accordingly. As such, I would stick with the grades originally used. As a general rule, I might replace ungraded or low grade hardware with a Grade 5 or Property Class 8.8 (different than grade 8 but that's another story. If it has a decimal, it's likely a property class not a grade). However, there's a "WALL" 🧱that I would be very careful about crossing before going *past* Grade 8 or Property Class 10.9, and the issue is hydrogen embrittlement [HE] and the related "stress corrosion cracking" [SCC], which basically means the fastener will fail unexpectedly and well below it's yield point. 💥 This is especially true in fasteners that have been plated.... 😲
"With HE, the fastener made from a susceptible material is first exposed to hydrogen followed by stressing (due to tightening) which leads to a delayed brittle fracture. With SCC the fastener that is made from a susceptible material is tightened and then exposed to hydrogen, which subsequently leads to a brittle fracture." 💥
Property class 10.9 is in the transition zone 🔄for these issues, and largely comes down the quality control of the manufacturer. Going to Property Class 12.9, however, is at VERY high risk for Hydrogen Embrittlement and Stress Corrosion Cracking. ⚠ I would avoid going to a 12.9 unless it's called for by engineers. It won't be stronger, and it's much more susceptible to these unpredictable kinds of failure, especially if it's low quality. If the loads and forces involve justify a 12.9 in the first place, then by all means, don't skimp out with cheap no-name fasteners, buy a reputable brand that follows good QC or you WILL regret it.
You can read more about this by google searching "The stronger the better is not necessarily the case for fasteners" 📰and you'll find a wonderfully written document on 👉 boltscience.com 🤘🔩👨🔧