A few drill motor stories about my dad and grandpa. #1 In the early 1940s my grandpa was laying on a creeper under a truck drilling large holes in the frame to attach tank straps. He had a similar, but older, 'man killer' drill motor which had the classic toggle switch. As often happens when drilling, just as the bit started to break through the backside of hole it caught leaving grandpa spinning around on the creeper shouting at my dad to 'turn it off!' If the bit caught you dare not let go of the handle to try and reach the toggle switch. #2 In ~1975 my dad bought a B&D drill motor with a 1/4" Jacobs chuck. The chuck lasted about 3 years and Dad was very disappointed that it failed so soon. As it happened grandpa had recently had his 15+ year drill motor burn up. He was also greatly disappointed that it failed so soon. Grandpa's drill chuck wound up on Dad's drill motor and Dad used that the rest of his life. I have it now and take if down off the wall to use on occasion. It makes me very happy every time I do.
I've spent a good deal of my life either operating or repairing heavy equipment. Now, retired, I'm reduced to watching such on RUclips. I enjoy your channel and consider you to be one of the best sources to ask a question that nags at me, that being, shouldn't bushing bosses be made of an alloy such as 4140 and then heat treated? At least that's the way we did it in the old days. The prime characteristic needed is impact resistance. There are dozens of equipment repair channels, and I often see bushing bosses made out of mild steel. Of course, that might be fine for a small business with an old machine and operating on a shoestring budget, (I've been there) but when you are talking about multi-million dollar equipment where even the shortest amount of down time costs thousands of dollars, I would think that this would not be the case. Yet, as I said, I see it done on YT all the time. So, what's your take on bushing bosses? Which brings up another question. We used specifically designed build up materials like Stoody Build Up. When building up after line boring, how impact resistant is the welding wire used? Though this is a perfectly acceptable repair, I'm curious as to whether there is a loss of impact resistance with such a repair over what I assume would be an alloy, heat treated OEM bushing boss? Thanks. Regards.
Good evening, I'll give you my two cents. Very little of the equipment built today is made out of anything that's even remotely close to alloy steel, so on the topic of weld out I run 70,000 PSI wire or stick and I'm quite certain that it equals or exceeds the base metal that I'm putting it on. I've heard rumors of some 90,000 PSI filler being used in the past, and possibly even being specified by cat but I don't have any personal experience with that. On the topic of Boss material, if time and customers finances allow for it I definitely prefer to get an alloy steel and have it heat treated, with exactly the objective that you mentioned maximum strength and impact resistance. But most of the time the customer is in too big of a hurry to wait for the parts to be sent off to heat treat so things just get assembled in their mild state. If I'm making bushings that are going to see actual wear then I start getting a bit more insistent upon the heat treating.
@@perpetualmotion1 Thank you for taking the time to reply. Line boring jobs are a popular subject of RUclips videos and Instagram reels. The one thing that they have in common is a failure of the bushing boss. I would say that the usual cause is lack of lubrication of the pin and bushing, that ends up destroying all three components. The pin, bushing, and the boss. But do you ever see the boss being damaged or destroyed from impact of the hardened bushing being pressed into a softer mild steel boss? Or is it really not a concern? Thanks. Regards.
I can't say that I have ever seen a failure caused by the bushing migrating into the boss. Failure is almost always caused by letting the pin and bushing get too sloppy, as the gap increases the pin is able to get a run at the bushing and eventually cracks it, have never seen a boar with a cracked bushing that didn't need to be redone, as soon as the bushing cracks it swags the bore oversize. I always try to increase the press fit a bit, that helps a lot to keep the bushings from cracking and let's people get away with more abuse before they fail.
Oh Yeah! that baby will try and break a wrist! Useful for many things. As long as the field windings and armature stay intact those big drills will run forever with an occasional fresh dab of grease in the gearbox.
@@perpetualmotion1 LOL, If it doesn't knock some sense into you the first time around you have 25 more chances! Thats why the long handle so you can brace it against something. Some 30 years ago, I broke a gear in my 3/4" chuck Milwaukee once drilling a 1 1/2 hole. Drill caught and tried to rotate me and the part I was drilling. Before I could come to my senses, like 1/2 second later and let go it broke the bit and a gear in the gearbox! That was scary and I learnt a thing or two that day!🤣
I have the same model black and decker and in that model I have been able to obtain the complete range 1/2” 5/8 3/4 1” they are very good drills. I personally would have made your drill with a #3MT for what I do would give more versatility but that’s me grate job
A few drill motor stories about my dad and grandpa.
#1 In the early 1940s my grandpa was laying on a creeper under a truck drilling large holes in the frame to attach tank straps. He had a similar, but older, 'man killer' drill motor which had the classic toggle switch. As often happens when drilling, just as the bit started to break through the backside of hole it caught leaving grandpa spinning around on the creeper shouting at my dad to 'turn it off!' If the bit caught you dare not let go of the handle to try and reach the toggle switch.
#2 In ~1975 my dad bought a B&D drill motor with a 1/4" Jacobs chuck. The chuck lasted about 3 years and Dad was very disappointed that it failed so soon. As it happened grandpa had recently had his 15+ year drill motor burn up. He was also greatly disappointed that it failed so soon. Grandpa's drill chuck wound up on Dad's drill motor and Dad used that the rest of his life. I have it now and take if down off the wall to use on occasion. It makes me very happy every time I do.
Thankfully this monster has the spring loaded switch, it has a toggle for reverse which is an interesting feature that my father's didn't possess.
Man killer drill is right! You can't beat those things for brute force. Thanks for sharing!
I'm terrified every time I use it 😳
I've spent a good deal of my life either operating or repairing heavy equipment. Now, retired, I'm reduced to watching such on RUclips. I enjoy your channel and consider you to be one of the best sources to ask a question that nags at me, that being, shouldn't bushing bosses be made of an alloy such as 4140 and then heat treated? At least that's the way we did it in the old days. The prime characteristic needed is impact resistance. There are dozens of equipment repair channels, and I often see bushing bosses made out of mild steel. Of course, that might be fine for a small business with an old machine and operating on a shoestring budget, (I've been there) but when you are talking about multi-million dollar equipment where even the shortest amount of down time costs thousands of dollars, I would think that this would not be the case. Yet, as I said, I see it done on YT all the time. So, what's your take on bushing bosses?
Which brings up another question. We used specifically designed build up materials like Stoody Build Up. When building up after line boring, how impact resistant is the welding wire used? Though this is a perfectly acceptable repair, I'm curious as to whether there is a loss of impact resistance with such a repair over what I assume would be an alloy, heat treated OEM bushing boss? Thanks. Regards.
Good evening, I'll give you my two cents. Very little of the equipment built today is made out of anything that's even remotely close to alloy steel, so on the topic of weld out I run 70,000 PSI wire or stick and I'm quite certain that it equals or exceeds the base metal that I'm putting it on. I've heard rumors of some 90,000 PSI filler being used in the past, and possibly even being specified by cat but I don't have any personal experience with that. On the topic of Boss material, if time and customers finances allow for it I definitely prefer to get an alloy steel and have it heat treated, with exactly the objective that you mentioned maximum strength and impact resistance. But most of the time the customer is in too big of a hurry to wait for the parts to be sent off to heat treat so things just get assembled in their mild state. If I'm making bushings that are going to see actual wear then I start getting a bit more insistent upon the heat treating.
I should add that I always specify 4140 or the closest thing I can get to it for my heavy wall tube that I make bushings and bosses out of.
@@perpetualmotion1 Thank you for taking the time to reply. Line boring jobs are a popular subject of RUclips videos and Instagram reels. The one thing that they have in common is a failure of the bushing boss. I would say that the usual cause is lack of lubrication of the pin and bushing, that ends up destroying all three components. The pin, bushing, and the boss. But do you ever see the boss being damaged or destroyed from impact of the hardened bushing being pressed into a softer mild steel boss? Or is it really not a concern? Thanks. Regards.
I can't say that I have ever seen a failure caused by the bushing migrating into the boss. Failure is almost always caused by letting the pin and bushing get too sloppy, as the gap increases the pin is able to get a run at the bushing and eventually cracks it, have never seen a boar with a cracked bushing that didn't need to be redone, as soon as the bushing cracks it swags the bore oversize. I always try to increase the press fit a bit, that helps a lot to keep the bushings from cracking and let's people get away with more abuse before they fail.
Oh Yeah! that baby will try and break a wrist! Useful for many things. As long as the field windings and armature stay intact those big drills will run forever with an occasional fresh dab of grease in the gearbox.
The 30 second spin down time is the scariest part of this thing, not only will it smack you, it will do it 20 more times before it stops.
@@perpetualmotion1 LOL, If it doesn't knock some sense into you the first time around you have 25 more chances! Thats why the long handle so you can brace it against something.
Some 30 years ago, I broke a gear in my 3/4" chuck Milwaukee once drilling a 1 1/2 hole. Drill caught and tried to rotate me and the part I was drilling. Before I could come to my senses, like 1/2 second later and let go it broke the bit and a gear in the gearbox! That was scary and I learnt a thing or two that day!🤣
I have the same model black and decker and in that model I have been able to obtain the complete range 1/2” 5/8 3/4 1” they are very good drills. I personally would have made your drill with a #3MT for what I do would give more versatility but that’s me grate job
It's called being cheap and using what I had available at the moment 😁
@@perpetualmotion1well we say do what you have to do to get the job done
Those drywall screws won't know what hit them!
🤣