For small diameter drills when using a handheld tool, I often first drill through a wine cork. The cork prevents the breakage of the bit when breaking through the material being drilled. Of course, the wine might be the cause of breakage😊
Mr Pete, A friend of mine used to prototype printed circuit boards for a surveillance organization ( on contract with the US govt ) in the 1970's. I used to help him on occasion in his production lab and he used a pneumatically lowered/raised electric powered micro-drilling machine to drill the holes in the PC boards. It had a foot pedal that you'd press and the quill would automatically lower at an adjustable, precise travel rate and drilling pressure. Take your foot off the button and the quill would raise up automatically. I had never seen anything like it before, it was a joy to use.
My Father used to use micro drill bits for his model trains. He showed me the #80 drill bit, it was so fragile. He used a pin vise to drill to make holes. Thank you for the video.
Don't let the shadow ban stop you MrPete. I've been a subscriber for 12 years and your videos are a fixture in my house. My 12 year old wants to be an engineer and is learning to use a metal lathe because of your videos. Keep up the good work.
As a child I got into making circuit boards and broke many of those drill bits until I figured out that center punching every hole kept the bits on center. I made a little jig that held a sharp hardened screw for a punch on a thin wood arm so that would flex when hit to punch material. The screw was to permit adjustable clearance. I had found that jig in a train modeling magazine to model rivets in brass sheet stock.
This video is germane to what I am doing today. I used to maintain the last remaining glass vacuum tube factory in the US until they closed. I have some old videos of it on my channel. I still do some tube hobby work and today I need to drill some .030 holes in some fixtures to make a tool to punch holes in mica insulators. Also the cords shorting out at the end of the video reminded me of working there. Most of the equipment was from the 20's through the 60's and I had to spend a large amount of time just repairing things like cords that had word out and connections that had gone bad.
Many years ago, I worked in a small Tool &Die shop. My first task was drilling and tapping 6-32 holes in a soft aluminum. Did not have a sensitive drill press. I broke so many drills and taps… I should have been fired on my first day! Have a good week ahead.
Tapping 6/32 holes in soft aluminum with lubrication should not be a problem. More 6/32 taps are broken in steel than any other size due to 32 threads per inch being too coarse for the recommended #36 (.106) size tap drill. To eliminate 90 percent of breakage simply use slightly larger #35 or #34 tap drills. 6/40 would be a better choice with less breakage for most manufacturing.
@@ellieprice363 So true. A 6-32 is the breaky-est tap of all, for exactly the reason you state. I'd much rather use a 5-40 or 8-32. Most shops I've worked in didn't use 6-40 screws, and I might not even have a 6-40 tap in my toolbox.
I just want to say Mr Tubalcain, I have no experience with metalwork at all, but your videos among others have inspired me to take it up as a productive hobby. I will be watching and rewatching many of your videos in future as I delve into the discipline of metal machining, and just felt I should express my appreciation. People like you sharing your vast depth of knowledge via mediums like youtube are such an underappreciated resource in our modern world and I just wanted to say thankyou for opening up such a rewarding wealth of knowledge to those of us who did not have the opportunity in the past.
A few years ago, I purchased a fairly light weight radial drill press on fb marketplace for a about $200. A machinist friend stopped by to check out my purchase. He immediately said. That 5/8" to 0" Albrecht chuck is worth three or four times what you paid for the drill press. Sometime you get lucky.
I've been building models for 50 years. Looked for a useful drill press for 48 years. Finally got one made in of all places, Turkey. The chuck is mounted directly to a shaft with a toothed pully on top driven with a toothed belt. When you pull the lever, the entire head including the motor moves up and down along 3 shafts. The most precise and stable press I ever owned. Opps, I commented a little quick before finishing the video. My drill press operates the same as the Cameron's you show. That style is great for miniature work. Best part is mine was $75.00.
Good video and subject matter Mr.Pete. I was first introduced to small hole drilling about 43 years ago in an Aero Space job shop. We used the Electro-Machano drill presses. About the smallest holes we drilled .015/.018 if I remember correctly. Excellent little drill presses and was equipped with the Albrecht chucks and are absolute quality. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend. 👍
I loved your caffeine fueled video, your humor is much appreciated along with the fascinating treatise on sensitive drills. I was laughing at your use of the term "loquacious", I instantly wondered how long it had been or if I had heard it used in a machine shop video. Might be a few people asking themselves what that means and doing a google search on it! Thanks Mr. Pete for the outstanding Edutainment this morning!
Good morning Lyle, Excellent video of the precision drill presses. The only use that I have found for a package of #70 drills is to relieve the pressure of a blood blister under my finger nail. Twisting it by hand, you can quickly drill through the nail. Then a quick splash of rubbing alcohol and you’re good to go. Have a good weekend and if you still have extra energy, the flower bed needs weeding.
Thank you Mr. Pete for expanding our horizons. Most of us probably never heard of these drills and never would know they existed without our beloved RUclips shop teacher. Thank you so much for making all of us smarter and smarter. One day you will exhaust all your knowledge and we will be just as smart as you are. Thanks again, Art & Joshua from Ohio
Lyle, I value the quality and content of your videos as I'm sure everyone else does. We all know those other flashy click-bait videos will not stand the test of time, but yours will. I think you have a winner.
I used to have a number set when I did HVAC work as a young man. We used them to drill the orifice in a gas burner. Sometimes when you'd convert a furnace from LP to Nat. Gas or vice versa, you'd have to peen the brass orifices shut and re-drill the orifice to the correct size. The number set had a chart that described the BTUs of LP or Nat Gas for each number. So if you needed 100,000 BTUs and the unit had 4 burners, you'd find the number that coincided with 25,000 BTUs and drill all four orifices with that number. The standing pilots (in those days) would also need resizing but we did those by eye to ge a clean flame the right size to complete the ignition of the main burner(s). I'm guessing that very few HVAC guys these days have ever even seen it done, much less do it themselves. BTW.. The bits were all mounted in 1/4" hex shanks so the chuck size wasn't an issue.
Interesting. Probably too much math & thinking for the techs nowadays. Easier to just replace the burners - if not the whole unit. Many HVAC techs are on commission, in case you didn't know.😅
@@fhrswa That sounds dangerous. Like the old Holland furnace guys. "OK lady, looks like you need a new furnace. This one's got a big SCREWDRIVER hole in the heat exchanger." Holland made a good furnace but the sales practices were beyond shady. That's what comes from putting guys on commission only.
@@fhrswa BTW, the orifices are (or were in those days) threaded and screwed into the manifold. So replacing the burners wouldn't do anything. They were usually shiny brass so easy to peen shut and drill out even with those teeny bits. However, I must admit my set had several broken ones in it. I'd use a stone and put a new point 'em when I could. Otherwise you just had to go with the next one in size & call it close enough. With the chart that came with the bits the only math you needed was to divide the total BTUs by he number of burners. I'm sure no one does it anymore. Even back then, the mfg's often included a second set of orifices. Especially where LP and Nat Gas were both very common like rural areas. So it was most often practiced on a unit that was perhaps LP but then Nat Gas became available. This was long before the 80% efficiency and up were even a thing. When pulse unit were till thought of as buzz bombs, not furnaces. Retrofitting an electronic ignition for the standing pilot was just coming into popularity. so before the mfgr's even started putting sparks on in the factory. ....Geez I'm old!
Hi Lyle, I am glad you are going to talk about the sensitive adapters for a regular drill press, I have bought two at the flea market 40 years ago and have never used. I also have one of the rockwell high speed drill presses for small drills, that has a jacobs chuck and I do believe it goes down to zero. Good video
I just bought an Emco (universal) for drilling small holes. It needs some TLC, but I am optimistic. My father in law was a clock and watch maker. He showed me how to refurbish clocks. He said, that in his career, the majority of clocks and watches he repaired, had nothing wrong with them. They only needed removing the old and dry oil and re oiling them. I’ve since found that true with indicators. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Lyle for the video. I've learned a lot from you over the years. I'm a model railroader and use my model 164D-7 Cameron micro drill with the 1/16" chuck for drilling holes down to #80 for handrails on my trains. I had trouble breaking drills with my Dremel, but not with the Cameron. I'm looking forward to learning more about my Cameron. Thanks again for all the time and effort you put into your videos. LONG LIVE TUBALCAIN
I own one of the early large sensitive drill presses. Made by Sipp machine company of New Jersey around 1916. Its over 6 feet tall and about 700 pounds. It came out of the Foster Grant eye glass factory.
I use one of those tiny bits in a pin vise to drill a hole into a fingernail after I’ve smashed a finger and the nail turns purple. It relieves the blood pressure under the nail and stops the throbbing pain.
We heart Mr. Pete! For those of us that enjoyed four years of high school shop class, thank you! America seems to have lost the whole concept of a shop class in high school. Very weird.
Wonderful video. I like seeing the designs of each press compared side by side. Seeing the evolution of the engineering in the upgrades as time went by is a unique and great presentation. 👍🏻
Great video! I always learn something I didn’t know I needed. I especially noticed how you pointed out all of the oil ports. This makes me wonder if I am really doing proper maintenance on my machinery. I’m sure you have videos on the topic. I’ll have to search them out. Thanks again!
During Some of my 44 years as a military contractor, I had the privilege of setting up a printed circuit development shop, and one of my first purchases was the Sensitive Drill Press second from the left on your little display… that was 1980 or thereabouts and we drilled tens of thousands of 1/16 holes (that was the smallest bit supply carried at the time) by hand, into copper clad phenolic board material…
Use the dial indicator to know how deep to are drilling with each penetration. Years ago I had a production job of drilling . 20 diameter holes 1/2” deep through aluminum metering blocks It was easy to do with the Dumore and or my favorite sensitive drill, a Hamilton, made in Hamilton Ohio For more energy you might look into taking a little B1🎉 Keep up the good work! JIM ❤
I have a smaller Dumore Series 37 press that I picked up which is a very interesting design for a small drill press. It has a large, flat cast iron base. The head can be easily moved up and down on the column with the help of a large spring. The quill has a couple of inches of travel. It has a universal motor on a belt drive with 2 speeds via a pulley, 7,000 rpm and 21,000 rpm. And it comes with a 5/32 max capacity Jacobs chuck.
Thanks Mr. Pete. I always learn something from you. Today the main lesson was that I need to review the basics on drilling speeds. I have a couple of old rules rattling around in my head, but really should understand it all better. I'll bet you have a video on that somewhere in the archive.
I use pin vices for drilling tiny holes for model railroading. Mostly in plastic, brass, and pot metal. I recently had to drill and tap twelve holes in brass to 00-80. Only broke one drill bit. I would love to have a micro drill press.
In between a milling machine and the little sensitive drill presses are the precision sensitive chucks that mount in a collet with the bearing mount disc you lower by hand. I have an Albrecht that needs the bearing replaced but they seem a good solution to not have another machine but have feel with tiny bits, though not the super high spindle speeds
I have never seen or used a drill press for such small bits, even though I have broken many in my hand-held drill motor. This video is very interesting to me. Thanks.
Very good presentation. Particularly on the Cameron’s. I was completely unaware, so I learned a lot. Your coffee story is very funny. Would be interested to see restoration on the antique sensitive drill. Thanks for all you do….!
I recently bought a set of micro drillbits. I couldn’t resist but to touch the end of the smallest bit. It instantly effortlessly punctured my finger and the hole was so small it did not even bleed.
Cameron, I've never heard of this sensitive or micro press. Definitely sounds like what I need, I make custom fountain pens...this may be what I've been looking for. Sure can't afford the new ones at $1,500 on my old man monthly check so second hand hunting is it. I've had other micro drills but everyone of them was crap..and certainly not sensitive or controllable as stated. Enjoyed part #1 !
had to drill a small hole earlier this week in a set screw to turn an open center valve into a closed center valve. I think abom had a lot of good videos on hydraulics before he did machining. They were very good.
The smallest I ever needed to get (for hobby use) was a #70. The local Ace Hardware had a stand with all the numbered drill bits down to #80. This was 15 years ago, they probably don't have it anymore. The display stand was pretty dusty even at that time.
I enjoyed your video. I purchased 0-?? chucks with straight arbor shaft for micro drilling, and have never had a need to use them after the purchase. I intended to chuck in a larger chuck. Thanks for the reminder that spindle RPM could be an issue. I don't own any micro drill presses, but I do a variable speed hand tapper with a tiny chuck that might work. I can't recall the speed range, but it is an industrial model. I assumed it has high RPM.
Good video Mr Pete. I don’t have one of these machines, but I do want to get one. I have been using a big drill to get the job done. I need the small drill press to do a better job.
I've eventually come to own a precision sensitive drill press, it took a bit of time to come across an affordable one with the lever-lift table and 1/8th keyed chuck.. really wanted a 8mm collet model but those are a bit rare. I've tended to find it easier to drill the smallest holes on a watchmakers lathe with a pin vice slid through the tailstock casting.
Bruce here,reminds of the time as an apprentice blowing dwarf of a mill when something got into the junction box. It looked like and sounded like a M80 going off.
I've read that the woodworker's multi-machine called a Shop Smith (very common) work well with smaller drill bits when the machine is configured as a drill press. The Shop Smiths have sheaves so they are variable speed and you can really crank up the RPMs. In fact, I've heard that the machines are nifty, but about the only thing that they do really well is drilling holes, particularly small holes. I've seen several photos where a man will cut down the tubular ways to reduce the "footprint" of the machine and leave it setup as a drill press. Neat stuff Mr. Pete. Thank you.
At a recent auction I picked up 22 Kwik Switch 200 adapters for my Bridgeport because they included a 0-1/4 and 1/8-1/2 Albrecht chucks. Then I checked the price of the two chuck without the adapters and they totaled almost $900. I have only used the larger one and it works like a champ. The small number bits are often used to clean out or enlarge carb jets.
You have finally got to what I do. My most commonly used drill size is a #43 the tap size to tap 4-40 which I use to tap electronic aluminum heat sinks to mount tiny fans. Oddly I use my DeWalt battery powered drill with it's key-less chuck. And yes I have broken a tap, because I failed to enlarge the original hole with the #43, carbide drill. (only three machine screws on that unit) I have three spare taps, as I power tap with the drill and at 82 I expect trouble. I also own a motor with a small chuck that runs on twelve Volts that I use infrequently, I have never owned a drill press. Ron W4BIN
I have a Cameron drill press like your #2 example. I retrieved it from my employer's scrap bin after a 5S clean up years ago. It does not have a motor or chuck. The model number has been removed by someone wiping the nameplate with a solvent. It appears that the missing model number ended with a "B" which is stamped in the plate. My employer manufactured parts with many small holes in them. I think the Cameron was what was used to make the initial prototypes and early production. (mid 1970's) They later bought several Servo micro drill presses and used them for several years before switching over to a CNC machining center.
Great video, now I'll be on the hunt for one of these little drill presses. Also, a reminder to myself to get a speed chart by drill size and have it by the mill and the drill press. Be careful with those stimulants, Mr. Pete. Look what happened with Hunter.
Back in the 1970s, shortly after the 1976 celebrations here in NYC, I built a couple of wood ship models. I used my Unimat 3 to drill the holes in the very tiny parts I was making for the rigging blocks. It’s worked very well for that. By the way, you have to be crazy to buy those chucks from Grainger. You can get them for about half that price from many other places. I have a Jacob’s High Torque 1/2” version that does go to zero, though zero is much smaller than I would go with it. You can get a 2” stroke indicator for the Cameron.
I hope you captured the smoke that came out of the power cords, it is very difficult to find replacement electrical smoke! I hope you will cover examples of how these small drill presses were/are used in industry as I have a very vague and certainly incomplete notion of it. Another great video but maybe you should alternate between caffeine and decaf coffee! Lol
I also have TWO "MOORE" Jig boring machines one of them is a model #1 1/2 which has a SUPER sensitive auxiliary spindle which incorporates a Microscope for extremely small precision drilling down to using .0010 dia drills and pivot drills , which i have used in my shop many times .
I'm still looking for a "sensitive" drill press and drills. I do have two tiny Albreckt chucks that were found in a "junk" drawer I bought at an estate sale. I did not know they were in there when I bought the box. So I got that going for me. Other: I haven't heard of the term NoDoze for at least 30 years. If you are still amped up maybe do a triathlon later, then have barbeque for dinner.
Honestly I wish I'd known these existed about 20 years ago. I had to machine a bracket for a Dremel that basically did the same thing. The Dremel quick collate is reasonably precise and will go down to 0. It worked reasonably well or at least good enough for my purposes.
![Rare Bow Chainsaw [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wjv75kJyZ7M/mqdefault.jpg)
For small diameter drills when using a handheld tool, I often first drill through a wine cork. The cork prevents the breakage of the bit when breaking through the material being drilled. Of course, the wine might be the cause of breakage😊
Great tip!
Reminds me of the Cajun Chef 😂
@mpetersen6 Mas` das good ya
Yuuuup I'm Cajun
You are a genius 👏
I don't drink wine but the wife does! Great idea!
Mr Pete, A friend of mine used to prototype printed circuit boards for a surveillance organization ( on contract with the US govt ) in the 1970's. I used to help him on occasion in his production lab and he used a pneumatically lowered/raised electric powered micro-drilling machine to drill the holes in the PC boards. It had a foot pedal that you'd press and the quill would automatically lower at an adjustable, precise travel rate and drilling pressure. Take your foot off the button and the quill would raise up automatically. I had never seen anything like it before, it was a joy to use.
Thank you, I never saw such a machine
My Father used to use micro drill bits for his model trains. He showed me the #80 drill bit, it was so fragile. He used a pin vise to drill to make holes. Thank you for the video.
Don't let the shadow ban stop you MrPete. I've been a subscriber for 12 years and your videos are a fixture in my house. My 12 year old wants to be an engineer and is learning to use a metal lathe because of your videos. Keep up the good work.
👍👍👍
It’s good to see today’s youth showing interest in the craft trades. It’s what made this country so successful.
3:20...when the chuck was new- it would have gripped the small drill bit- but not anymore...(!)
As a child I got into making circuit boards and broke many of those drill bits until I figured out that center punching every hole kept the bits on center. I made a little jig that held a sharp hardened screw for a punch on a thin wood arm so that would flex when hit to punch material. The screw was to permit adjustable clearance. I had found that jig in a train modeling magazine to model rivets in brass sheet stock.
👍👍
This video is germane to what I am doing today. I used to maintain the last remaining glass vacuum tube factory in the US until they closed. I have some old videos of it on my channel. I still do some tube hobby work and today I need to drill some .030 holes in some fixtures to make a tool to punch holes in mica insulators. Also the cords shorting out at the end of the video reminded me of working there. Most of the equipment was from the 20's through the 60's and I had to spend a large amount of time just repairing things like cords that had word out and connections that had gone bad.
👍👍
Wish that factory was still running with the outrageous prices of tubes today! Love vacuum tube technology.
Many years ago, I worked in a small Tool &Die shop. My first task was drilling and tapping 6-32 holes in a soft aluminum. Did not have a sensitive drill press. I broke so many drills and taps… I should have been fired on my first day!
Have a good week ahead.
lol
Tapping 6/32 holes in soft aluminum with lubrication should not be a problem. More 6/32 taps are broken in steel than any other size due to 32 threads per inch being too coarse for the recommended #36 (.106) size tap drill. To eliminate 90 percent of breakage simply use slightly larger #35 or #34 tap drills. 6/40 would be a better choice with less breakage for most manufacturing.
@@ellieprice363 So true. A 6-32 is the breaky-est tap of all, for exactly the reason you state. I'd much rather use a 5-40 or 8-32. Most shops I've worked in didn't use 6-40 screws, and I might not even have a 6-40 tap in my toolbox.
I just want to say Mr Tubalcain, I have no experience with metalwork at all, but your videos among others have inspired me to take it up as a productive hobby. I will be watching and rewatching many of your videos in future as I delve into the discipline of metal machining, and just felt I should express my appreciation. People like you sharing your vast depth of knowledge via mediums like youtube are such an underappreciated resource in our modern world and I just wanted to say thankyou for opening up such a rewarding wealth of knowledge to those of us who did not have the opportunity in the past.
Thank you very much, I am so happy that my videos have helped you
Wonderful machines and a great video. I like when you drill down into the subject matter. Absolutely electrifying!
The drill pun hurt me ... bad.
A few years ago, I purchased a fairly light weight radial drill press on fb marketplace for a about $200. A machinist friend stopped by to check out my purchase. He immediately said. That 5/8" to 0" Albrecht chuck is worth three or four times what you paid for the drill press. Sometime you get lucky.
Nice score
Awesome, looking forward to the rest of the series. Excellent overview so far. Thank you for putting this up. Fantastic video quality too. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've been building models for 50 years. Looked for a useful drill press for 48 years. Finally got one made in of all places, Turkey. The chuck is mounted directly to a shaft with a toothed pully on top driven with a toothed belt. When you pull the lever, the entire head including the motor moves up and down along 3 shafts. The most precise and stable press I ever owned.
Opps, I commented a little quick before finishing the video. My drill press operates the same as the Cameron's you show. That style is great for miniature work. Best part is mine was $75.00.
👍👍👍
Good video and subject matter Mr.Pete.
I was first introduced to small hole drilling about 43 years ago in an Aero Space job shop.
We used the Electro-Machano drill presses.
About the smallest holes we drilled .015/.018 if I remember correctly.
Excellent little drill presses and was equipped with the Albrecht chucks and are absolute quality.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend. 👍
👍👍
I loved your caffeine fueled video, your humor is much appreciated along with the fascinating treatise on sensitive drills. I was laughing at your use of the term "loquacious", I instantly wondered how long it had been or if I had heard it used in a machine shop video. Might be a few people asking themselves what that means and doing a google search on it! Thanks Mr. Pete for the outstanding Edutainment this morning!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good morning Lyle,
Excellent video of the precision drill presses.
The only use that I have found for a package of #70 drills is to relieve the pressure of a blood blister under my finger nail. Twisting it by hand, you can quickly drill through the nail. Then a quick splash of rubbing alcohol and you’re good to go.
Have a good weekend and if you still have extra energy, the flower bed needs weeding.
Same here, just don't remember the number, originally were purchased to solder & resize carburetor jets.
Thank you Mr. Pete for expanding our horizons. Most of us probably never heard of these drills and never would know they existed without our beloved RUclips shop teacher. Thank you so much for making all of us smarter and smarter. One day you will exhaust all your knowledge and we will be just as smart as you are.
Thanks again,
Art & Joshua from Ohio
Thank you. I have already exhausted my rather small knowledge of machine shop.
Lyle, I value the quality and content of your videos as I'm sure everyone else does. We all know those other flashy click-bait videos will not stand the test of time, but yours will. I think you have a winner.
Thanks, I wish I knew how to use Clickbait and I would have a lot more viewers, lol. But it is immoral, wicked, dishonest, and a sin.
As always - very instructive and entertaining
Wow! Coffee, No doze and electro shock therapy. Glad to see you survived it all!
I used to have a number set when I did HVAC work as a young man. We used them to drill the orifice in a gas burner. Sometimes when you'd convert a furnace from LP to Nat. Gas or vice versa, you'd have to peen the brass orifices shut and re-drill the orifice to the correct size. The number set had a chart that described the BTUs of LP or Nat Gas for each number. So if you needed 100,000 BTUs and the unit had 4 burners, you'd find the number that coincided with 25,000 BTUs and drill all four orifices with that number. The standing pilots (in those days) would also need resizing but we did those by eye to ge a clean flame the right size to complete the ignition of the main burner(s). I'm guessing that very few HVAC guys these days have ever even seen it done, much less do it themselves.
BTW.. The bits were all mounted in 1/4" hex shanks so the chuck size wasn't an issue.
I have a set of those I wish I had shown them
@@mrpete222 I'd have liked to see them. You can still put 'em in the next installment though. If you have a mind to.😉
Interesting. Probably too much math & thinking for the techs nowadays. Easier to just replace the burners - if not the whole unit. Many HVAC techs are on commission, in case you didn't know.😅
@@fhrswa That sounds dangerous. Like the old Holland furnace guys. "OK lady, looks like you need a new furnace. This one's got a big SCREWDRIVER hole in the heat exchanger." Holland made a good furnace but the sales practices were beyond shady. That's what comes from putting guys on commission only.
@@fhrswa BTW, the orifices are (or were in those days) threaded and screwed into the manifold. So replacing the burners wouldn't do anything. They were usually shiny brass so easy to peen shut and drill out even with those teeny bits. However, I must admit my set had several broken ones in it. I'd use a stone and put a new point 'em when I could. Otherwise you just had to go with the next one in size & call it close enough. With the chart that came with the bits the only math you needed was to divide the total BTUs by he number of burners. I'm sure no one does it anymore. Even back then, the mfg's often included a second set of orifices. Especially where LP and Nat Gas were both very common like rural areas. So it was most often practiced on a unit that was perhaps LP but then Nat Gas became available. This was long before the 80% efficiency and up were even a thing. When pulse unit were till thought of as buzz bombs, not furnaces. Retrofitting an electronic ignition for the standing pilot was just coming into popularity. so before the mfgr's even started putting sparks on in the factory.
....Geez I'm old!
Hi Lyle, I am glad you are going to talk about the sensitive adapters for a regular drill press, I have bought two at the flea market 40 years ago and have never used. I also have one of the rockwell high speed drill presses for small drills, that has a jacobs chuck and I do believe it goes down to zero. Good video
👍👍
I just bought an Emco (universal) for drilling small holes. It needs some TLC, but I am optimistic.
My father in law was a clock and watch maker. He showed me how to refurbish clocks. He said, that in his career, the majority of clocks and watches he repaired, had nothing wrong with them. They only needed removing the old and dry oil and re oiling them. I’ve since found that true with indicators. Thanks for the video.
👍👍
Great educational information Mr.Pete.
Glad you didn't throw a red bull in with that coffee and nodoze 😂
Arcs, sparks, and caffeine...you are living large, Mr. Pete!⚡☕
Thanks Lyle for the video. I've learned a lot from you over the years. I'm a model railroader and use my model 164D-7 Cameron micro drill with the 1/16" chuck for drilling holes down to #80 for handrails on my trains. I had trouble breaking drills with my Dremel, but not with the Cameron. I'm looking forward to learning more about my Cameron. Thanks again for all the time and effort you put into your videos. LONG LIVE TUBALCAIN
Glad to help
Thanks, Mr. Pete! I always learn a ton!
I own one of the early large sensitive drill presses. Made by Sipp machine company of New Jersey around 1916. Its over 6 feet tall and about 700 pounds. It came out of the Foster Grant eye glass factory.
I use one of those tiny bits in a pin vise to drill a hole into a fingernail after I’ve smashed a finger and the nail turns purple. It relieves the blood pressure under the nail and stops the throbbing pain.
@@CaptainHook-j7u red hot needle
We heart Mr. Pete!
For those of us that enjoyed four years of high school shop class, thank you! America seems to have lost the whole concept of a shop class in high school. Very weird.
Very wicked
Very interesting well explained video. Looking forward to the rest of the series
More to come!
Mr. Peet thank you. Keep up the great work. Greetings and salutations
Thank you, I will
Love those Cameron Drill Presses Mr Pete 👍👍👍 looking forward to the other videos in this series.
👍
Excellent information and presentation.
Wonderful video. I like seeing the designs of each press compared side by side. Seeing the evolution of the engineering in the upgrades as time went by is a unique and great presentation. 👍🏻
Great video! I always learn something I didn’t know I needed. I especially noticed how you pointed out all of the oil ports. This makes me wonder if I am really doing proper maintenance on my machinery. I’m sure you have videos on the topic. I’ll have to search them out. Thanks again!
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During Some of my 44 years as a military contractor, I had the privilege of setting up a printed circuit development shop, and one of my first purchases was the Sensitive Drill Press second from the left on your little display… that was 1980 or thereabouts and we drilled tens of thousands of 1/16 holes (that was the smallest bit supply carried at the time) by hand, into copper clad phenolic board material…
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Use the dial indicator to know how deep to are drilling with each penetration. Years ago I had a production job of drilling . 20 diameter holes 1/2” deep through aluminum metering blocks
It was easy to do with the Dumore and or my favorite sensitive drill, a Hamilton, made in Hamilton Ohio
For more energy you might look into taking a little B1🎉
Keep up the good work!
JIM ❤
I have a smaller Dumore Series 37 press that I picked up which is a very interesting design for a small drill press. It has a large, flat cast iron base. The head can be easily moved up and down on the column with the help of a large spring. The quill has a couple of inches of travel. It has a universal motor on a belt drive with 2 speeds via a pulley, 7,000 rpm and 21,000 rpm. And it comes with a 5/32 max capacity Jacobs chuck.
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Thanks Mr. Pete. I always learn something from you. Today the main lesson was that I need to review the basics on drilling speeds. I have a couple of old rules rattling around in my head, but really should understand it all better. I'll bet you have a video on that somewhere in the archive.
Great substance! Excellent tools meets the master. Thank you Sir!
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I use pin vices for drilling tiny holes for model railroading. Mostly in plastic, brass, and pot metal. I recently had to drill and tap twelve holes in brass to 00-80. Only broke one drill bit. I would love to have a micro drill press.
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In between a milling machine and the little sensitive drill presses are the precision sensitive chucks that mount in a collet with the bearing mount disc you lower by hand. I have an Albrecht that needs the bearing replaced but they seem a good solution to not have another machine but have feel with tiny bits, though not the super high spindle speeds
Don’t get ahead of me, I already made that video, but it’s on published
@@mrpete222 Nice!
I love to see you rebuild a machine, and cleaning them up,
I have never seen or used a drill press for such small bits, even though I have broken many in my hand-held drill motor. This video is very interesting to me. Thanks.
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Very good presentation. Particularly on the Cameron’s. I was completely unaware, so I learned a lot. Your coffee story is very funny. Would be interested to see restoration on the antique sensitive drill. Thanks for all you do….!
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Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next one.
Great videon on the sensitive drills presses, especially the Frankenmill appearance. Those Albrecht chucks are the bees' knees, but so pricey.
Fascinating, thanks. Now I know my bench drill press is sensitive, I'll stop swearing at it when I do something stupid. 👍
lol
The micro drill presses are great, very interesting!
I recently bought a set of micro drillbits. I couldn’t resist but to touch the end of the smallest bit. It instantly effortlessly punctured my finger and the hole was so small it did not even bleed.
Cameron, I've never heard of this sensitive or micro press. Definitely sounds like what I need, I make custom fountain pens...this may be what I've been looking for. Sure can't afford the new ones at $1,500 on my old man monthly check so second hand hunting is it.
I've had other micro drills but everyone of them was crap..and certainly not sensitive or controllable as stated.
Enjoyed part #1 !
I miss high school shop Mr. Pete . Great times
had to drill a small hole earlier this week in a set screw to turn an open center valve into a closed center valve. I think abom had a lot of good videos on hydraulics before he did machining. They were very good.
The smallest I ever needed to get (for hobby use) was a #70. The local Ace Hardware had a stand with all the numbered drill bits down to #80. This was 15 years ago, they probably don't have it anymore. The display stand was pretty dusty even at that time.
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Thanks for the edutainment . the video was not too long, It was very interesting .
Glad you liked it!
Thank you Mr pete. Lots of preparation in this video😊.
You got that right?
I appreciate all the work you put into making these videos.
Glad you like them!
I enjoyed your video. I purchased 0-?? chucks with straight arbor shaft for micro drilling, and have never had a need to use them after the purchase. I intended to chuck in a larger chuck. Thanks for the reminder that spindle RPM could be an issue. I don't own any micro drill presses, but I do a variable speed hand tapper with a tiny chuck that might work. I can't recall the speed range, but it is an industrial model. I assumed it has high RPM.
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Good video Mr Pete. I don’t have one of these machines, but I do want to get one. I have been using a big drill to get the job done. I need the small drill press to do a better job.
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Good one Mr Pete. Enjoyed every part. John
always wonderful Lyle....cheers, Paulie
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Awesome. Always a thumbs up for you Mr. Pete!! I find these mini drill presses really neat! Thanks for the video. Cya on the next one!!
The super tiny bits i have are great to use when you need to relieve the pressure under your thumb or, finger nail after you smashed it !
Thank you for another great video!
Mr. Pete you bring the most interesting items to your videos.
Thanks
I just find it amazing that they can make such small drill bits!
I was thinking the exact same thing when I was making the video
I've eventually come to own a precision sensitive drill press, it took a bit of time to come across an affordable one with the lever-lift table and 1/8th keyed chuck.. really wanted a 8mm collet model but those are a bit rare.
I've tended to find it easier to drill the smallest holes on a watchmakers lathe with a pin vice slid through the tailstock casting.
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I think in the 1940-50's the early fuel injectors were made by drilling the .010 to .015" holes in the injection nozzles with drills like these.
I never thought about that
Like any good machine, it doesn't matter what it runs on just as long as it keeps running!
Keep the entertainment coming Mr.Pete.
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Thank you Mr. Pete…Enjoyed the video!
Another gem Mr. Pete. Thank you.
Bruce here,reminds of the time as an apprentice blowing dwarf of a mill when something got into the junction box. It looked like and sounded like a M80 going off.
Been looking forward to these videos on these presses. Thanks! Have a great weekend.
Thanks, you too!
I enjoyed that, very interesting. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for sharing .... Stay Safe and Well ....
I've read that the woodworker's multi-machine called a Shop Smith (very common) work well with smaller drill bits when the machine is configured as a drill press. The Shop Smiths have sheaves so they are variable speed and you can really crank up the RPMs. In fact, I've heard that the machines are nifty, but about the only thing that they do really well is drilling holes, particularly small holes. I've seen several photos where a man will cut down the tubular ways to reduce the "footprint" of the machine and leave it setup as a drill press. Neat stuff Mr. Pete. Thank you.
Just one hour ago at a garage sale I saw lots of tools, including a Shopsmith for sale
At a recent auction I picked up 22 Kwik Switch 200 adapters for my Bridgeport because they included a 0-1/4 and 1/8-1/2 Albrecht chucks. Then I checked the price of the two chuck without the adapters and they totaled almost $900. I have only used the larger one and it works like a champ.
The small number bits are often used to clean out or enlarge carb jets.
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You could mention the UPT (Universal Pillar Tool) from G.H. Thomas, which also resembles a very sensitive drill press.
Never stop watching until all the hidden gems have played after the first "So long for now"
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They're great. I have a Cameron 164 with a Albretcht 0 to 3mm keyless chuck. The max speed is 30000rpm
You have finally got to what I do. My most commonly used drill size is a #43 the tap size to tap 4-40 which I use to tap electronic aluminum heat sinks to mount tiny fans. Oddly I use my DeWalt battery powered drill with it's key-less chuck. And yes I have broken a tap, because I failed to enlarge the original hole with the #43, carbide drill. (only three machine screws on that unit) I have three spare taps, as I power tap with the drill and at 82 I expect trouble.
I also own a motor with a small chuck that runs on twelve Volts that I use infrequently, I have never owned a drill press. Ron W4BIN
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Great job. Thank you 😊
I have a Cameron drill press like your #2 example. I retrieved it from my employer's scrap bin after a 5S clean up years ago. It does not have a motor or chuck. The model number has been removed by someone wiping the nameplate with a solvent. It appears that the missing model number ended with a "B" which is stamped in the plate. My employer manufactured parts with many small holes in them. I think the Cameron was what was used to make the initial prototypes and early production. (mid 1970's) They later bought several Servo micro drill presses and used them for several years before switching over to a CNC machining center.
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Thanks Mr Pete. I am wanting one of these.
Thank you; very interesting!
Great video, now I'll be on the hunt for one of these little drill presses. Also, a reminder to myself to get a speed chart by drill size and have it by the mill and the drill press. Be careful with those stimulants, Mr. Pete. Look what happened with Hunter.
Awesome video! Love your videos and humor!
Glad you like them!
👍 looking forward to part 2.
Thank You for another great video
Thanks Mr Pete!
Back in the 1970s, shortly after the 1976 celebrations here in NYC, I built a couple of wood ship models. I used my Unimat 3 to drill the holes in the very tiny parts I was making for the rigging blocks. It’s worked very well for that. By the way, you have to be crazy to buy those chucks from Grainger. You can get them for about half that price from many other places. I have a Jacob’s High Torque 1/2” version that does go to zero, though zero is much smaller than I would go with it. You can get a 2” stroke indicator for the Cameron.
I love my Unimat for drilling small holes!
I hope you captured the smoke that came out of the power cords, it is very difficult to find replacement electrical smoke! I hope you will cover examples of how these small drill presses were/are used in industry as I have a very vague and certainly incomplete notion of it. Another great video but maybe you should alternate between caffeine and decaf coffee! Lol
Thanks Mr. Pete!
It's always a good day when a video from you appears.
Glad you like them!
Good video. Can't wait to see the rest of them
I also have TWO "MOORE" Jig boring machines one of them is a model #1 1/2 which has a SUPER sensitive auxiliary spindle which incorporates a Microscope for extremely small precision drilling down to using .0010 dia drills and pivot drills , which i have used in my shop many times .
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Great to see this series. I found a nice Cameron a couple of years ago and it will be good to hear your thoughts.
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the u tubers that want to be entertained need to watch your videos all the way to the end. LOL
Yes
I'm still looking for a "sensitive" drill press and drills. I do have two tiny Albreckt chucks that were found in a "junk" drawer I bought at an estate sale. I did not know they were in there when I bought the box. So I got that going for me.
Other: I haven't heard of the term NoDoze for at least 30 years. If you are still amped up maybe do a triathlon later, then have barbeque for dinner.
Honestly I wish I'd known these existed about 20 years ago. I had to machine a bracket for a Dremel that basically did the same thing. The Dremel quick collate is reasonably precise and will go down to 0. It worked reasonably well or at least good enough for my purposes.
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