@@TenonsTenors A year later, I rewatched. Subscribed. Love it. I really need to make one of these for myself. I simply love the feel of a wooden plane in my hands. I'll bet you do too.😄
fantastic. I know what I will be making next. I get real tired of adjusting my 45 and this can be tailor made to my small box projects. Thanks a bunch.
Very nice. I always like it when a video demystifies the complicated look of a plane and makes it look possible. It turned out really nice, but it just needs the screws all facing the same way and it’ll be perfect 😉 Really nice job.
Thank! Don't want to mess with the screws, they're brass and really soft. I've twisted the heads completely off on other projects because my pilot hole wasn't deep enough. Just glad they all went in!! Thanks for watching!
Precisely what I am looking for. I am fed up with my combination planes. They do not work for me. I will try something similar to your plane. It is a masterpiece.
The iron ski is 1/4 of an inch so the plane stops at that depth of I let it cut through. I never go more than a 1/4 inch for the groove for drawer bottoms, which is what this plane is exclusively made for. But you're right, I may want to add a depth stop in the future!
Just stumbled across this video, thanks for sharing! I am obsessed with making hand planes lately. This is a great, simple design. Elegant and functional, well done. It looks like your stock is 5/4 (1.5" thick), is that right?
Yes, it's 30mm wide, so about 1.5". I'm glad you like the design. I did a video where I reviewed the tools I have made, including this plane, and offer advice on how to tweak the design to make it function better. You might want to take a look before you start making anything. Here's the link to that video, and thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/Gv7r2kdNBOY/видео.html
Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Did you factor in a depth stop needed for your drawers, or do you just keep an eye on the depth? I've been waiting for you to make a tenor sax with hand tools. Any idea when we will see that video? ;-)
The iron ski has a depth of 1/4 inch, so the plane cannot cut deeper than that, and I never go more than a 1/4 inch depth for drawer bottom dadoes. If I want it shallower I'll just eye ball out. As for the wooden sax, don't hold your breath! It might look cool, but definitely wouldn't sound good!
Fabulous. But I'm wondering why you use Western rasps instead of Shinto for example, and a brass backed tenon saw (?) instead of a dozuki for the fine work. Also the fret/coping saw instead let's say a compass saw. Love to hear your insights, given you live in Japan.
Thanks for your question. I have lived in Japan for almost 30 years, but I grew up using Western tools and fell in love with the design and feel of them as I grew older. I do have a good selection of Japanese planes and saws, and use them on occasion when the task is better suited for a pull saw/plane, rather than a push saw/plane. It's just a matter of comfort. I use the tool that suits the task best taking into account my own control and experience with the tool. Hope that explains it!
@@TenonsTenors yes, that does explain it, rather nicely! You do lovely work - you have every reason to be proud of it. See you on again on your other videos. I'm enjoying them...
No. I just orient the sides of the drawers so that the grain goes in the direction I'm planing. Then I do the joinery and plough the groove for the bottom. Thanks for watching!
No plans for that. Since it's dedicated for drawer bottoms I'm not too concerned if there's a little tear out. I usually line the bottoms of drawers with felt, so no one would see it anyway. Thanks for watching!
I caught a glimpse of Titebond at some point, have you tried the ボンド ones? That's my go to because they're cheap, and I especially like the fast drying ones, because I'm impatient. Anyway, I'm wondering if there is any difference strength wise. (I actually made a grooving plane a few weeks back, and I used a chisel, as I don't have any irons lying around, but it worked out much better than I expected, I couldn't believe it!)
By ボンド do you mean the white wood glue? If so yes, but tend to let my kids use that when making wood toys. I use the titebond or hide glue. I honestly don't know if the ボンド is stronger or not. I'm just in the habit of using to titebond.
@@julienrichard-1076 The white glue also had a really long open time. I like Titebond because it starts to cure quicker but gives enough open time to glue up complicated joints.
@@TenonsTenors This is good to know, because that is definitely the downside of the fast drying one, you only get a few minutes to get everything done. I only work on small things so it hasn't been a real problem yet, but I'll keep this in mind for future big projects.
No. The prototype I made was open on the side and I had no problems. I did find however that when I was adjusting the iron and tapping the key that the iron had a tendency to shift, hence why I decided to add the brass plate. I also considered making another wooden half the same shape as the plane to glue onto the side, but I thought the brass would look better.
@@TenonsTenors here in Italy, but Mostly in France, old woodworkers used to build rabbet Planes and molding Planes on this pattern. They glued in or screwed a strip of wood on the opposite side to "reinforce" the plane where wood Is thinner .
Not really. Just watch your thickness. There's not a lot of outward stress put on the brass plate, but if you're making it out of wood I'd make it a little thicker just in case. It depends on the species of wood you use as well though. I used brass for aesthetic reasons to tie in the whole design and to demonstrate the technique for making such pieces with hand tools. Thanks for watching!
Sorry, I do not. I only make plans for large furniture items, and those are only pencil sketches with dimensions and notes that I understand. I've never made professional plans that can be followed by anyone.
Yes, that's why it says, "How to make a grooving plane..." in the title. The "dado" in parenthesis helps people to search for similar planes and find my video.
Nothing more satisfying than making your own tool that works.
Very true!
"I'm not a very good metal worker." Looks pretty good to me.
Very clever to angle the key and mouth to direct the shavings.
Well done. There is nothing more better than a plan executed with satisfaction. I love the sound of a plane running through Wood.
Thank you!
Well, that is a piece of Art, and yet useful for work, too!! Doesn't get any better than that.
Thank you! And, thanks for watching!
@@TenonsTenors A year later, I rewatched. Subscribed. Love it. I really need to make one of these for myself. I simply love the feel of a wooden plane in my hands. I'll bet you do too.😄
@@rollingstone3017 Awesome! I sure do, just something about a wooden plane that you can't beat.
really nice job on this. great idea for the brass sole and iron hold
Nice job. Glad I found your YouTub page.
Thanks for watching!
It's great and the decorative design is nice⭐️
I like brass too and use it often.
I hope this tool will get a good look over time..
Impressive! Like the brass accents.
Thank you!
Nice one.
fantastic. I know what I will be making next. I get real tired of adjusting my 45 and this can be tailor made to my small box projects. Thanks a bunch.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Very nice. I always like it when a video demystifies the complicated look of a plane and makes it look possible. It turned out really nice, but it just needs the screws all facing the same way and it’ll be perfect 😉 Really nice job.
Thank! Don't want to mess with the screws, they're brass and really soft. I've twisted the heads completely off on other projects because my pilot hole wasn't deep enough. Just glad they all went in!! Thanks for watching!
very nice
Pretty awesome!
Thanks for sharing ^_^
Thanks for watching!
Precisely what I am looking for. I am fed up with my combination planes. They do not work for me.
I will try something similar to your plane. It is a masterpiece.
Thank you! Glad it helped!
Just made a night stand and thought wouldn't it be handy to have a dedicated grooving plane for the drawer bottom groove. Great Minds!
It's nice to be able to just reach for it, use it and put it back without any adjusting or anything! Thanks for watching!
Nice result, but I think you'll be adding an adjustable depth stop soon. Key? We call that a wedge here in England.
The iron ski is 1/4 of an inch so the plane stops at that depth of I let it cut through. I never go more than a 1/4 inch for the groove for drawer bottoms, which is what this plane is exclusively made for. But you're right, I may want to add a depth stop in the future!
Who needs a plough plane??? Just make your own!
Just stumbled across this video, thanks for sharing! I am obsessed with making hand planes lately. This is a great, simple design. Elegant and functional, well done. It looks like your stock is 5/4 (1.5" thick), is that right?
Yes, it's 30mm wide, so about 1.5". I'm glad you like the design. I did a video where I reviewed the tools I have made, including this plane, and offer advice on how to tweak the design to make it function better. You might want to take a look before you start making anything. Here's the link to that video, and thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/Gv7r2kdNBOY/видео.html
Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Did you factor in a depth stop needed for your drawers, or do you just keep an eye on the depth?
I've been waiting for you to make a tenor sax with hand tools. Any idea when we will see that video? ;-)
The iron ski has a depth of 1/4 inch, so the plane cannot cut deeper than that, and I never go more than a 1/4 inch depth for drawer bottom dadoes. If I want it shallower I'll just eye ball out. As for the wooden sax, don't hold your breath! It might look cool, but definitely wouldn't sound good!
Fabulous. But I'm wondering why you use Western rasps instead of Shinto for example, and a brass backed tenon saw (?) instead of a dozuki for the fine work. Also the fret/coping saw instead let's say a compass saw. Love to hear your insights, given you live in Japan.
Thanks for your question. I have lived in Japan for almost 30 years, but I grew up using Western tools and fell in love with the design and feel of them as I grew older. I do have a good selection of Japanese planes and saws, and use them on occasion when the task is better suited for a pull saw/plane, rather than a push saw/plane. It's just a matter of comfort. I use the tool that suits the task best taking into account my own control and experience with the tool. Hope that explains it!
@@TenonsTenors yes, that does explain it, rather nicely! You do lovely work - you have every reason to be proud of it. See you on again on your other videos. I'm enjoying them...
@@LitoGeorge Thank you! Been out of it for several months now, but hoping to be back making videos in the near future.
Nice design, perhaps sharpening the blade would help with cutting 😉
Would you have to build the mirror image plane to cut in the opposite direction based on grain direction?
No. I just orient the sides of the drawers so that the grain goes in the direction I'm planing. Then I do the joinery and plough the groove for the bottom. Thanks for watching!
how the heck do you get such a flat bottom when you chisel out waste?
Razor sharp chisel and lots of practice. Thanks for watching!
Nice. Are you going to make it's mirror for opposite grain direct?
No plans for that. Since it's dedicated for drawer bottoms I'm not too concerned if there's a little tear out. I usually line the bottoms of drawers with felt, so no one would see it anyway. Thanks for watching!
I caught a glimpse of Titebond at some point, have you tried the ボンド ones? That's my go to because they're cheap, and I especially like the fast drying ones, because I'm impatient. Anyway, I'm wondering if there is any difference strength wise.
(I actually made a grooving plane a few weeks back, and I used a chisel, as I don't have any irons lying around, but it worked out much better than I expected, I couldn't believe it!)
By ボンド do you mean the white wood glue? If so yes, but tend to let my kids use that when making wood toys. I use the titebond or hide glue. I honestly don't know if the ボンド is stronger or not. I'm just in the habit of using to titebond.
@@TenonsTenors I see I see. I will have to get some Titebond and test it out!
@@julienrichard-1076 The white glue also had a really long open time. I like Titebond because it starts to cure quicker but gives enough open time to glue up complicated joints.
@@TenonsTenors This is good to know, because that is definitely the downside of the fast drying one, you only get a few minutes to get everything done. I only work on small things so it hasn't been a real problem yet, but I'll keep this in mind for future big projects.
many thanks for this video!
is brass plate really needed at the right of blade&wedge group?
No. The prototype I made was open on the side and I had no problems. I did find however that when I was adjusting the iron and tapping the key that the iron had a tendency to shift, hence why I decided to add the brass plate. I also considered making another wooden half the same shape as the plane to glue onto the side, but I thought the brass would look better.
@@TenonsTenors here in Italy, but Mostly in France, old woodworkers used to build rabbet Planes and molding Planes on this pattern. They glued in or screwed a strip of wood on the opposite side to "reinforce" the plane where wood Is thinner .
Is there any reason the plate used to hold the blade in place could not be made of wood?
Not really. Just watch your thickness. There's not a lot of outward stress put on the brass plate, but if you're making it out of wood I'd make it a little thicker just in case. It depends on the species of wood you use as well though. I used brass for aesthetic reasons to tie in the whole design and to demonstrate the technique for making such pieces with hand tools. Thanks for watching!
Have you any plans available?
Sorry, I do not. I only make plans for large furniture items, and those are only pencil sketches with dimensions and notes that I understand. I've never made professional plans that can be followed by anyone.
@TenonsTenors no problem totally understand. Enjoyed the video. Thanks
hello. What model of coping saw is that? Knew..? Thanks
Thanks for watching! Yes, Knew Concepts, is the brand.
That is not a dado plane, it's just a grooving plane.
A dado might be two feet from the edge and is usually cross grain, which means you need nickers.
Yes, that's why it says, "How to make a grooving plane..." in the title. The "dado" in parenthesis helps people to search for similar planes and find my video.
That is not a dado plane. That is a groove or rabbet plane.