Very informative. Not too many people take the time to go over their cars and check stuff out. Tearing apart the diffs seems like a lot of work and a bit scary for some. I'm so glad I found this video because it was easy to follow and I am considering getting a DBX 10 some day. 👍
Your videos are awesome. Right to the point and informative, thank you for the time you spend making them. I'm ordering this car to keep mostly stock and just play with but I am doing the pre-maintenance you describe for sure! Thanks again!
Hey, thank you! Comments like yours make doing all this work worthwhile. I'm sure you'll enjoy this buggy. It's a lot of kit for the money. Definitely get the brushless version and you won't need to do any upgrades. Thanks for watching, CJ
Thanks for making the video's. How did it go with the diffs and removing the spacers? I have a brushed version (which is upgraded to brushless). Diffs sounds out of the box not so good. Did you like the oil thickness?
Nice job on this. Anything from ZD really needs inspected for long term use because they often to get some things assembled correctly or properly greased.
That's a bummer that you did so much damage. Hopefully you'll find replacement parts available. Since this is a reasonably new kit, they may be hard to find. If you're having trouble, make a list of part numbers off the exploded view in the directions and send it to ZDRacing. Going through the factory directly may be the only option. Banggood has some parts... but not a lot. Unfortunately, this is the downside of buying inexpensive kits from off-brands like ZDRacing and WLToys. I wish I could be of more assistance. Check in your manual for a company address or other support related contact information.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hey thanks for a great reply! I did manage to find all the replacment parts and I thought I couldnt fix it myself but I tried some myself and checked your videos and it was not that hard! Think I will enjoy this hobby. Thanks again for your videos :)
@@TheCameltotem That's fantastic. The best affirmation of my work is my viewers learning from them. It's a great hobby and I think you'll find that many areas may seem daunting at first, but they become easy as you attempt them and even more so with repetition. Soon, you'll be an expert! Here are some online resources to help you to become familiar with the terminology and theory of suspension tuning... img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/RC_HandbookV2.pdf www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-guide/ www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/708385-understanding-tuning-introduction-basic-tuning-racing.html Enjoy! CJ
Hi, I wanted to ask if you've seen my latest videos, Part 6 and Part 7... Part 8 will be out later today... There are some nice aluminum c-hubs and steering knuckles that will strengthen the front end nicely. Install is covered in the videos, and the links to the parts are in the descriptions. I hope you're having fun with your DBX-10! Regards, CJ
HI THERE CJ, FIRST OF ALL, MAY I SAY YOUR PASSION AND PRECISION IS TO BE ADMIRED...JUST RECEIVED MY DBX 10 IN THE MAIL. I AM JUST ABOUT TO TACKLE THE TEAR DOWN YOU DONE, I AM A BIT WORRIED BECAUSE I AM ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO EXPECTS A FACTORY ASSEMBLED CAR TO BE READY TO FLY.... I WILL GIVE IT A CRACK. YOU ARE DEFINITELY RIGHT THE GEARS ARE SO SO TIGHT AND CRUNCHY AND NOISY, HOW CAN THEY SHIP IT IN THIS STATE, ITS CRAZY..... I WILL DO BOTH DIFFS, AND A SHOCKS SERVICE, AND A REGREASE OF SOME PARTS ETC. YOUR VIDEO IS GOING TO BE MY GUIDE STEP BY STEP RIGHT BESIDE ME AS I DO IT...THNKX AGAIN DAN MELBOURNE.
Hi Dan, Thank you for the complements. I'm glad you're enjoying my videos and more important, are getting value from them. The only way these companies can release rc cars/trucks/buggies at these prices is to skimp on something... usually several things like cheap materials, and cheap labor for the assembly. I've heard from at least one viewer that the front steering cups and c-hubs break easily. I recommend that you watch the Part 5 video and order the aluminum c-hubs & steering cups, a set of front and rear a-arms as well as a set of axles/driveshafts... you'll be able to throw your truck around without having to worry that if something breaks, you'll be without a running truck for 2-6 weeks while you wait for parts. The links to these parts are in the description of the video... you'll need to look up the rear a-arms on the same site. If you have any questions as you go through the rebuild process, feel free to ask and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Thanks for watching! CJ
in the manual it lists 2 diffs. 7170 and 7500 CNC. Which one do you think is in the truck? Do you think there is a need for the CNC version if the stock diff is not CNC?
Found these videos super useful, thank you! In fact, I just ordered one for myself. Could I please ask you to list the tools you would recommend as a starting point to work on this? Thx again! 👍
Hey there, just answered your question about shocks... do you still need an answer to this... I'll definitely give you a list and some links if you still need this answered.
Mine arrived today and I've already added the foam tire inserts. Please help... I'm trying to remove the pinion gear and it really won't budge. I daren't use any more force in case I break something!! Any ideas??
This is a common problem in the cars assembled in China... they are using to much thread locker and probably a grade more suited to real autos than RC cars. A lot of people use a high temp soldering iron, like a soldering station that can go over +700 degrees F... or they heat the bolts/screws with a torch. The goal being to melt the tread locker. If you don't have either of the tools I mentioned, try buying a "kitchen torch" or cigarette "jet" lighter that is refillable. Here's a really good example of the "kitchen torch" and don't forget to buy a couple extra cans of fluid.: www.amazon.com/Refillable-Rotating-Adjustable-Culinary-Desserts/dp/B09SSX6NT1/ref=sr_1_16?crid=SLI78VOXZ7W6&keywords=refillable+butane+torch+lighter&qid=1653115469&sprefix=refilable+butain+%2Caps%2C49&sr=8-16 Your worst case is buying a replacement motor... if the grub screw in the pinion gear gets stripped, you'll likely never get it off... since the motor's drive shaft is quality steel, you might be able to drill out the grub screw without destroying or damaging the shaft. You might as well attempt this as a last resort before buying a new motor. Here is a link to a motor with the same physical size with slightly higher KY rating. www.amazon.com/GoolRC-3800KV-Waterproof-Brushless-Crawler/dp/B07BF765LP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1NEDY4OADLV0R&keywords=3660+Brushless+Motor+2300KV&qid=1653116042&sprefix=3660+brushless+motor+2300kv%2Caps%2C33&sr=8-5 Good luck! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions and I'll definitely get back to you sooner the next time... things got crazy on my end over the holidays and I fell out for a while... a couple deaths in the family among other things, but I've got my feet under me again. Thanks for watching my channel, CJ
Hi, I don't know if you've had the chance to watch all 4 videos, here's a link to the playlist: ruclips.net/video/bNRpPcfpX_M/видео.html The servo is a no-name brand servo i got off Amazon. The stock gear isn't bad, but I wanted to use my regular radio so I was swapping the receiver anyway. Here's a link to the same servo I used. It's waterproof, high torque with metal gears. www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Digital-Crawler-Coreless-Control/dp/B09171GC49/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=32g+servo&qid=1631620512&sr=8-9 I'll be uploading at least one more video with showing the truck in action. I've just been buried in other projects and commitments. Thanks for watching! CJ
Hello my friend I have the same one and I was working on my last week and by mistake I lost my pinion gear and now I tried to order one but I don’t know which one it’s the size for the original pinion gear and I don’t want to order a higher one and blow my motor can you help me out and tell me what is the size if you know🙏🙏🙏🥹
The stock gears are straight cut. That's not a problem. Even the best rc race cars use straight cut gears in the diffs and transmissions. The reasons some stock diff gears chip and break are #1 the metal is cheap, #2 the spacing is too tight or too loose.
Very informative. Not too many people take the time to go over their cars and check stuff out. Tearing apart the diffs seems like a lot of work and a bit scary for some. I'm so glad I found this video because it was easy to follow and I am considering getting a DBX 10 some day. 👍
Your videos are awesome. Right to the point and informative, thank you for the time you spend making them. I'm ordering this car to keep mostly stock and just play with but I am doing the pre-maintenance you describe for sure! Thanks again!
Hey, thank you! Comments like yours make doing all this work worthwhile. I'm sure you'll enjoy this buggy. It's a lot of kit for the money. Definitely get the brushless version and you won't need to do any upgrades.
Thanks for watching,
CJ
Thank you for doing this. Looking forward to the series.
Thank you for watching!
Nice work 👍got to do my tires mine does not have much lube on or in the diffs not surprised but still took it for a fun ride could not resist:)
same problem dif front...2 roundel and 3 roundel, I have remove 1 and work well now Thanks!
Thanks for making the video's. How did it go with the diffs and removing the spacers? I have a brushed version (which is upgraded to brushless). Diffs sounds out of the box not so good. Did you like the oil thickness?
Nice job on this. Anything from ZD really needs inspected for long term use because they often to get some things assembled correctly or properly greased.
I guess it's to be expected for the price we pay for these rc cars. They can't be paying much to the people doing the assembly.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott exactly
Just crashed mine after 3 days:/ front rods, servo arm, swing arm all ruined. Not really handy but these videos are great too see! Thank yuo!!
That's a bummer that you did so much damage. Hopefully you'll find replacement parts available. Since this is a reasonably new kit, they may be hard to find. If you're having trouble, make a list of part numbers off the exploded view in the directions and send it to ZDRacing. Going through the factory directly may be the only option. Banggood has some parts... but not a lot. Unfortunately, this is the downside of buying inexpensive kits from off-brands like ZDRacing and WLToys.
I wish I could be of more assistance. Check in your manual for a company address or other support related contact information.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hey thanks for a great reply! I did manage to find all the replacment parts and I thought I couldnt fix it myself but I tried some myself and checked your videos and it was not that hard! Think I will enjoy this hobby. Thanks again for your videos :)
@@TheCameltotem That's fantastic. The best affirmation of my work is my viewers learning from them. It's a great hobby and I think you'll find that many areas may seem daunting at first, but they become easy as you attempt them and even more so with repetition. Soon, you'll be an expert!
Here are some online resources to help you to become familiar with the terminology and theory of suspension tuning...
img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/RC_HandbookV2.pdf
www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-guide/
www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/708385-understanding-tuning-introduction-basic-tuning-racing.html
Enjoy!
CJ
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hey what a great reply! Thank you so much. Will be checking those links out and learn more :) Take care!
Hi, I wanted to ask if you've seen my latest videos, Part 6 and Part 7... Part 8 will be out later today... There are some nice aluminum c-hubs and steering knuckles that will strengthen the front end nicely. Install is covered in the videos, and the links to the parts are in the descriptions.
I hope you're having fun with your DBX-10!
Regards,
CJ
HI THERE CJ, FIRST OF ALL, MAY I SAY YOUR PASSION AND PRECISION IS TO BE ADMIRED...JUST RECEIVED MY DBX 10 IN THE MAIL. I AM JUST ABOUT TO TACKLE THE TEAR DOWN YOU DONE, I AM A BIT WORRIED BECAUSE I AM ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO EXPECTS A FACTORY ASSEMBLED CAR TO BE READY TO FLY.... I WILL GIVE IT A CRACK. YOU ARE DEFINITELY RIGHT THE GEARS ARE SO SO TIGHT AND CRUNCHY AND NOISY, HOW CAN THEY SHIP IT IN THIS STATE, ITS CRAZY..... I WILL DO BOTH DIFFS, AND A SHOCKS SERVICE, AND A REGREASE OF SOME PARTS ETC. YOUR VIDEO IS GOING TO BE MY GUIDE STEP BY STEP RIGHT BESIDE ME AS I DO IT...THNKX AGAIN DAN MELBOURNE.
Hi Dan, Thank you for the complements. I'm glad you're enjoying my videos and more important, are getting value from them. The only way these companies can release rc cars/trucks/buggies at these prices is to skimp on something... usually several things like cheap materials, and cheap labor for the assembly.
I've heard from at least one viewer that the front steering cups and c-hubs break easily. I recommend that you watch the Part 5 video and order the aluminum c-hubs & steering cups, a set of front and rear a-arms as well as a set of axles/driveshafts... you'll be able to throw your truck around without having to worry that if something breaks, you'll be without a running truck for 2-6 weeks while you wait for parts. The links to these parts are in the description of the video... you'll need to look up the rear a-arms on the same site.
If you have any questions as you go through the rebuild process, feel free to ask and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Thanks for watching!
CJ
in the manual it lists 2 diffs. 7170 and 7500 CNC. Which one do you think is in the truck? Do you think there is a need for the CNC version if the stock diff is not CNC?
I'll look into this and see if I can find an answer for you.
The 7170 diff is for the brushed version.
Nice..What pitch is the pinion? Mod .6?
Found these videos super useful, thank you!
In fact, I just ordered one for myself.
Could I please ask you to list the tools you would recommend as a starting point to work on this?
Thx again! 👍
Hey there, just answered your question about shocks... do you still need an answer to this... I'll definitely give you a list and some links if you still need this answered.
I have buy it! How to set the remote controle , to affect Channel 3 to
LEds on/off. to set the throttle too sensible.. ? the manual is only a
page...
I'm trying to find a download link to the full manual... If I can't I'll risk the copywrite violation and scan the relevant pages for you.
Mine arrived today and I've already added the foam tire inserts.
Please help... I'm trying to remove the pinion gear and it really won't budge. I daren't use any more force in case I break something!! Any ideas??
This is a common problem in the cars assembled in China... they are using to much thread locker and probably a grade more suited to real autos than RC cars. A lot of people use a high temp soldering iron, like a soldering station that can go over +700 degrees F... or they heat the bolts/screws with a torch. The goal being to melt the tread locker.
If you don't have either of the tools I mentioned, try buying a "kitchen torch" or cigarette "jet" lighter that is refillable.
Here's a really good example of the "kitchen torch" and don't forget to buy a couple extra cans of fluid.:
www.amazon.com/Refillable-Rotating-Adjustable-Culinary-Desserts/dp/B09SSX6NT1/ref=sr_1_16?crid=SLI78VOXZ7W6&keywords=refillable+butane+torch+lighter&qid=1653115469&sprefix=refilable+butain+%2Caps%2C49&sr=8-16
Your worst case is buying a replacement motor... if the grub screw in the pinion gear gets stripped, you'll likely never get it off... since the motor's drive shaft is quality steel, you might be able to drill out the grub screw without destroying or damaging the shaft. You might as well attempt this as a last resort before buying a new motor. Here is a link to a motor with the same physical size with slightly higher KY rating.
www.amazon.com/GoolRC-3800KV-Waterproof-Brushless-Crawler/dp/B07BF765LP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1NEDY4OADLV0R&keywords=3660+Brushless+Motor+2300KV&qid=1653116042&sprefix=3660+brushless+motor+2300kv%2Caps%2C33&sr=8-5
Good luck! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions and I'll definitely get back to you sooner the next time... things got crazy on my end over the holidays and I fell out for a while... a couple deaths in the family among other things, but I've got my feet under me again.
Thanks for watching my channel,
CJ
I have a shock absorber front come bend... !
what servo to update this one? thks
Hi, I don't know if you've had the chance to watch all 4 videos, here's a link to the playlist:
ruclips.net/video/bNRpPcfpX_M/видео.html
The servo is a no-name brand servo i got off Amazon. The stock gear isn't bad, but I wanted to use my regular radio so I was swapping the receiver anyway. Here's a link to the same servo I used. It's waterproof, high torque with metal gears. www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Digital-Crawler-Coreless-Control/dp/B09171GC49/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=32g+servo&qid=1631620512&sr=8-9
I'll be uploading at least one more video with showing the truck in action. I've just been buried in other projects and commitments.
Thanks for watching!
CJ
Hello my friend I have the same one and I was working on my last week and by mistake I lost my pinion gear and now I tried to order one but I don’t know which one it’s the size for the original pinion gear and I don’t want to order a higher one and blow my motor can you help me out and tell me what is the size if you know🙏🙏🙏🥹
stock pinion is 20T and 3.175mm shaft
DBX-10 原厂使用的是 弧形斜齿吗
The stock gears are straight cut. That's not a problem. Even the best rc race cars use straight cut gears in the diffs and transmissions. The reasons some stock diff gears chip and break are #1 the metal is cheap, #2 the spacing is too tight or too loose.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott 自上次回复后，我买了一辆DBX10 不过我发现这辆车 似乎存在两种版本。即有刷和无刷版。。他们时间的齿轮配置 完全不同。。
有幸我期间得到了一辆LRP S10 我发现DBX-10 几乎完全是S10的设计
wheels are loose ... to bad.