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@@ssstealth Thanks, it’s a joy to drive! People approach all the time to ask questions or just to admire the car. If they have young sons, I usually offer to let their kid sit in the driver’s seat for pictures. If you ever have the opportunity to own a car like this… a “super car” of any make, the experience is worth every penny. Sometimes I’ll be in bumper to bumper traffic and people will strike up conversation or just complement the car. It’s one of the best handling cars I’ve ever driven. And with the 4.0 liter engine, it’s really quick. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@combatseawolf Some suspension parts are interchangeable but not things like the electronics. If you buy a “Readyset” you are stuck with the radio that comes with it. That’s fine if you’re racing against a bunch of the same type. It’s a great way to get into racing mini-z. But if you want to race open/modified you want an evo, or one of the other brand cars that are “legal” for racing. I’m out right now but I’ll try to give you some names/sites later today.

@@loftbuckleyrc Yes, that works fine, especially if you are trying to save weight for competition. It’s a very nice glider! Thanks for watching! CJ

@@loftbuckleyrc It’s a shame what’s been done to that country. It will take decades, many more than a century to rebuild their infrastructure... don’t get me started!

@@chrisginoc Hi, they are both solid vehicles, Arrma doesn’t build junk. It depends on what you want to do and how much space you go ave access to for driving. Now I’m pretty sure you are not into racing or you’d be looking at a more focused kit in 1/0 or 1/8 and not RTRs. Nothing wrong with that! The Mojave is closer to being a race designed vehicle; strong and reliable suspension and drivetrain. It’s got a low wide track which makes it stable at high speed even over rough terrain. The Fireteam I’ve never owned, but I looked it up and reviewed the images and specs. It’s looks more like a “rock racer” but it’s not far off from any of the Arrma line of big rigs. Personally I’m not intrigued by the “hand brake”. I’ve had RC cars with mechanical brakes and prefer electric/esc braking since it’s more tunable. But if you want to do rear brake slides, this may be a selling point for you. They are both solid vehicles that should be reliable. The fireteam has a lot of plastic parts to brake but they are cosmetic. Aside from personal taste, they are both good trucks. You’ll have to choose the one that you think you’ll enjoy most. I hope I was some help. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScottDo you think the Mojave 6s only having a heat sink and no fan is a flaw?

@ No, I’m sure they ran it and tested it extensively for heat issues. If it had needed a fan, they would have added one. If you go with the Mojave, you can always add a fan to the heat sink if you wish, but I’d test first to see if the motor is running hot. Personally I’d be more worried about the ESC getting too hot. They are more susceptible to heat damage and more expensive to replace.

@@jerrygiles1661 Hi Jerry, the Shadow came with the design you see. No paint needed on my part. It’s a great kit, well designed and comes with high quality accessories. All the NAN kits are top notch! We had legal issues at our local field shortly after I purchased it, then Covid interrupted my more grandiose plans. And then I lost my parents. It’s a very long sad story… But, I’m looking at properties that have the acreage that will allow me to fly on my own land. It’s such a beautiful plane that I didn’t want to crash it flying at some ball field. My area has become so urban and high tech that it’s almost impossible to even find a place to drive off road cars without attracting the attention of law enforcement. Please stay tuned to my channel. I hope to own my own flying field by spring and I’ve got a lot of gliders and planes on deck. Thanks for watching! CJ

Thanks CJ, in your video you mm mention that you opted for a painted wing to protect carbon from the heat. That's the paint I meant. I assumed it was factory applied but didn't know how you got that to happen. I hear you on flying areas. Tough everywhere. I hope you're able to work something out. After seeing your unbox video, I'm sold on getting a shadow. Since I'm on the West coast I'm hoping you wouldn't mind if I tried to find that same color scheme. Jerry

@ Hi Jerry, as you mentioned, it’s been a while since I recorded this. I think what I meant was that I went with a light/mostly white color scheme as apposed to black, raw carbon, or a dark color scheme to keep the wing from accumulating radiant heat from the sun. Next week my wife and I are going to look at two properties. The most promising has +26 acres with at least 200 yards along a creek deep enough that it’s got trout. So it may be suitable for running RC boats. And it’s got a 2br log cabin built in the mid-1800s with some modern upgrades like washer dryer and real bathrooms with shower and tubs. I don’t mind at all if you get the same design. I wouldn’t mind even if you lived around the corner. The guys at Soaring USA have always been helpful and they are very knowledgeable since gliders are their focus. May I suggest having them install the firewall for the electric motor. Also, depending on your experience you might want to have them install the wing servos also. If you’re comfortable doing it yourself, go for it. But if you’ve never done it before, I recommend that you spend the extra money to buy high end servos and have them installed with mounting brackets. You want high resolution and you want those big control surfaces to return to center every time. The same goes for the tail feathers. There’s nothing more frustrating than a rudder and/or stab that has a different return point for each direction it moves… you can never trim the plane properly. On the west coast, you’ve got a lot of soaring locations. You may have to drive a bit, but there are some fantastic places to slope soar. Personally I love slope soaring! Please keep in touch, I’d like to hear how your project goes. You can find my email on the About page of my channel.

@@philiprawlinson2561 Sure, the tape method works well too. Whatever works for you! I’m glad that my videos have helped you with your build. It’s a great glider. I’ve got a second I’m going to build as a powered glider. This one is still immaculate! Thanks again for watching! CJ

@@LarryMaley-r1l Yes, is problem… the UMX planes are just so small, if you’re zoomed in, no matter how much experience you have it’s hard to keep the plane in frame. I’m trying to do better for future videos. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@geordienufc3132 Yes, it would have been cool to run our trucks together. Maybe next summer we can figure out a way to make that happen. I’ve got a bunch of large scale trucks and buggies… maybe you can meet me in the north east coast of the US somewhere. Actually, Marsha suggested this a while ago. She’d like to meet you and your wife. I suggested that the ladies could shop while we drive, but she said “hell no, I want to drive too!” It’ll make for one excellent video, that’s for sure!

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott That would be cool but I doubt I could make it happen. The video cheered me up because I'm in absolute agony with having no right shoulder since the surgery went wrong. Looking forward to the next episode.

@@geordienufc3132 I thought it went ok other than having a temp joint… I didn’t realize it left you in ongoing pain! I’m very sorry to hear that.

@@_BrutalRelaxUA No! It is not water proof! You’d need to upgrade all the electronics: motor, esc, receiver, and servo. Even then, you’ll never be 100% waterproof. You can submerge a foot or two for a short time but it’s really “splash proof”. As far as gears and diffs go, you can fill them to the gills with marine grease and water is still going to get in bringing dirt and silt so get ready to do regular end to end rebuilds… this includes the shocks too. It’s the nature of the beast! Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Thanks for watching! CJ

@@nivin3 Hi, honestly I haven’t had the time to move forward with this project. I got caught up with building 3kits for the vintage nationals and that ate up all my free time. I’ve got a pile of aluminum upgrades ready to install on the Granite. It was being offered at a deep discount when I bought it. If you can get a Keaton 4S for only $100 more and you’ve got the money, I say go for it. As far as portability, maybe you have to take the wheels off to fit it in your car, big deal.

@@dregrafics369 Hi, I used another Amazon find… here’s the link. It’s currently unavailable but there are similar ones there to choose from. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PTYTMJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After spending a lot of time… and money… I’ve come to a major conclusion. These inexpensive Chinese made buggies are not worth upgrading! Well, not beyond a certain point. Problems: 1. They use soft cheep plastics which makes it easy for their people to assemble them but the screws don’t hold and if you start disassembling and reassembling, the car will start to fall apart. 2. Things are designed to very sloppy tolerances so stuff doesn’t fit well and stuff leaks, like the shocks. When my buggy arrived all four shocks were empty of fluid. It had leaked all over the inside of the box. The shock collars barely hold the threads and easily readjust themselves. Things like that. It’s not worth replacing all four shocks because then you might as well replace the drive train, and the suspension and by that time you’re replacing the whole car. WAIT! ALL IS NOT LOST! Get a decent servo, check out the shocks and refill if necessary. Maybe use a thicker fluid. You’ll see that I replaced the steering knuckles and the other steering parts with aluminum replacements. This is an inexpensive and worthwhile upgrade because they brake if you’re going to bash this buggy. It’s not legal to race in any ROAR RC class so all it’s good for is playing around. Keep you expenses low, have fun, and save your money for a serious vehicle. If you want to get into racing talk to whoever organizes the races and find out what classes are most popular, what’s likely to be around for a while. You don’t want to spend a bunch of money only to find out that you’ve invested in a car that nobody wants to race anymore. And, if you don’t want to race or there’s no racing near you, buy a name brand badger like Traxxas or Arrma where you get what you pay for and there are a lot of aftermarket options available. Or buy a crawler and explore the great outdoors with a couple friends. There are lots of options. Just don’t spend a lot of money trying to make this buggy into something it can never be… unless you’re retired with lots of money, have a trust fund or are otherwise up to your eyeballs in disposable income and you like to tinker more than you like to drive the RC cars. Thanks for watching and for reaching out, let me know if you have any other questions. I promise I’ll make the next answer shorter! CJ

@@joelpetersen2480 Hello from the USA! If I recall, it is used for bracing in the front of the fuselage. If you watch all the videos in the series, I’m sure the purpose will reveal itself. If you watch them all and still don’t see where it is used, let me know and I’ll try to take a photo or two or even add a supplemental video. Thanks for watching, you’ll enjoy this glider! CJ

@@joelpetersen2480 I looked over parts of the videos that cover the fuselage build. You’ll definitely want to watch them on a computer and not a cellphone, the phone’s screen is just too small. I built this kit four years ago so you’ll have to forgive me for not remembering where that piece is used. I vaguely remember something about it though. Watching the videos will definitely help you because this is a surprisingly complicated kit. Preparation and organization are important to successfully completing the kit.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Update: I wrote in a forum with the developer of the glider and asked my question. It seems that this part is part of the frame for the engine fuselage. Btw, Are you planning to build more sliders in the future? I had some suggestions.

​@@joelpetersen2480 I am building another Fresh this winter. This time I'm building it using a power pod I bought from HyperFlight.co.uk I probably won't get to building it until after the new year... my wife and I are still getting settled into our new home and I don't have a work table set up for building planes yet. What are your suggestions? I'm always open to new ideas!

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott The "Maverick F5K" is a great and compact glider. Not a DLG. But I don't know which one will be delivered to the USA.

Thanks! I try to also get some of the inexpensive kits and RTRs as well for comparison, particularly around the holidays. There are a lot of newbies that have a little gift money and want to get into the hobby on a budget. You found my channel at an interesting time... I just updated my "What's Happening for Fall/Winter 2024" ruclips.net/video/T7PCp49GXRQ/видео.html I've got some really cool kits coming soon. Some I've already built and I just need to edit all the video. It takes a lot of time to go through all the clips and put the videos together for release. Not complaining, just saying. If you ever have a question about a kit, or anything RC related, feel free to ask. I'll do what I can to give you an answer. Regards, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott right on!

Check out the playlist for the build of the TLR 22T 4.0 the shocks are covered in parts 12 and 13. ruclips.net/video/4rjyjLhddOI/видео.html Another interesting shock build where I upgraded to the Fox Kashima coated shock bodies: Building a Team Associated RC10 B74.1D Team Kit ruclips.net/video/UXjEbviza2Q/видео.html There are many other builds where I cover building shocks at various levels of detail. I try to include all the tricks and tips I can. If you want more, check out the builds of the Team Associated RC10SC6.2 Team Kit, the TLR 22DC 5.0 Elite 1/10 2wd RC Buggy, and the Kyosho Inferno MP10e 1/8 Scale 4wd RC Buggy. Go to the channel home page and click the "Playlist" tab link, there you'll see all the builds I've done listed chronologically. By the way, if you decide to drill your shock caps, here are 4 shock cap screws with o-ring seals for under $5. www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-x-shock-v2-shock-cap-drain-screw-4-yokb2-s812ada/p417632 Thanks for watching, CJ

It's true, but all those issues can be addressed for relatively little money and time Actually, the gearbox performs reasonably well. I haven't had any issues with it. And, I am really enjoying racing with the vintage crowd. I ended up replacing the ballcups with Traxxas types that are very rugged and are almost impossible to knock off... like something that would go on a crawler. Once I got the turnbuckle issues solved, all my problems were related to tires, tuning, and electronics. Otherwise, the truck was great. I just didn't have enough time to work the problems b efore the race. But, I'm really looking forward to the next vintage race within driving distance because I'm going! If you can afford to buy a vintage truck or buggy, I highly recommend getting involved in the community! It's a great group of people. I broke a stub axle and one of the guys went into his parts box and pulled out an original steel front axle. He refused to accept any payment. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott You are right in that the RC community is a community incredibly supportive of each other - I found that out after reentering the hobby about 4-5 years ago. I may reconsider the Halsey replica. Looking forward to the next videos!

@@madvente There are a lot of cars that qualify as vintage. There’s a nice belt driven mid-motor awd buggy. There are several 2wd buggies other than the RC10. I’ll try to find the link with the list of qualified vehicles from the last national race and post it here for you sometime tomorrow. The main thing the rules dictate is motor turns.

Suer thing... I get them on Amazon. Last time I bought a 6-pack here's a real deal on 10 for $20! It's the exact same tool, just a different color. If you look, you can find them in different colors and in different quantities. This was at the top of my search so I sent it to you. You can put one in each tool box, save a couple for when they get dull, etc.! www.amazon.com/Cutters-KAIHAOWIN-Clippers-Diagonal-Electronic/dp/B09V7YC6RH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=A0LR2ELSQ0ZS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Glj1fZprabsUbk1N25B07wXStV-5pC3jis9NbDtvbnuB0x5aYz277qQTqvgU5R_oGjAZdJ_8cfCgq2VSZ5sGBjoaKhWyHjnwweZbvSdOr9E97AC4TuQuNRT7EiL-wznCKQ2C6g7ufqsN66lRDl70rwRLlKqNOIzXex5GTDBYCte2J_nYV3hsYBb5hHz4-C0MhghdFajj-_KcgZP3PYhueboB2saKkeRNyipTQ4Lq1qCzV3zBAJdzvEGaineq0lyZMwmgpuhbzVQAeun1iVSGuXu-Ud4M4jQIzk6odNotQPo.32aGhr4hJmcZ1sn6AET4DwSDrNn0WF36-13qycaewcA&dib_tag=se&keywords=tools%2Bcutters&qid=1727759876&sprefix=tools%2Bcutters%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Thanks for watching, CJ

They used different components as price and availability dictated. I wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction. My advice is to take it or at least one of your pads to a bike shop and they can help you find replacement pads. Best of luck! CJ

@@geordienufc3132 Oh, you think these are small? Wait till I put up the videos on the GLRacing 1/28th scale pan car. That’s crazy small! But really well engineered. N

Thanks! I'm getting up to speed! I recently built a couple vintage cars and went to a National Vintage Race! Builds and track footage coming... Lots more in the works.

The servos I used in the video are some cheep plastic servos I got from HobbyKing. I've been using KTS servos on my more recent builds... they are more expensive, but they are more reliable and more precise. If you look at the recommendations on the Fresh 2m page (here www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=FRESH&name=fresh-f3-res ) the plastic BlueBird servos are quite good without costing to much. I use the pull string and torsion spring on some kits. Just make sure to unhook it after every flight so the torsion spring doesn't wear out/weaken prematurely. It's still not my favorite way to go.. but it works for a lot of people. Best of luck! CJ

Yes, it flies very well. I'm building a second with a power pod. The original is still in great shape.

@MyRCChannel-CJScott nice. Thanks for the building videos.

@@pertttikeinonen261 it is a solid buggy. And yes, if you don’t beat it to death , it will last. It’s got a solid chassis and the suspension is designed to take a lot of punishment. BUT, the design and production leave much to the imagination be desired. If you want a big rig, save your money and buy an Arrma! You’ll never regret spending the extra money! My DBX-07 is in pieces and though I’ve had fun tinkering with it, it’s spent more time on the bench than it has being driven.

Thats all i need to know 👍🙏 Arrma kraton 6s exb is my dream car....mayby in the future... RTR about 1000€.... Thats a lot of thinking 😅

@@pertttikeinonen261 You get what you pay for! If you watch the whole series, you’ll see that the shocks were in bad shape when they arrived and they are designed to very loose tolerances. This makes it easy on the manufacturers and assemblers, but the end result isn’t very satisfying. Also the mold parts out of softer plastics which also makes it easier on the assemblers, but after you disassemble it even once, the hardware will strip and not hold as well. It’s just cheep.

@@wp1061 More or less, it’s got the “stealth” transmission… I built the RC10 at the same time so I may be misremembering. I think it was the RC10 that has the big felt pad between the gear box and the motor plate but it’s not a seal. It’s to keep mud from building up in that space. Remember, when these came out, they were racing on dirt tracks, groomed clay was years away. The RC10 still has that split gear trans with the ball diff as part of the spur gear… just like the original.

You should give it a shot... it depends on what you want to do with it of course. So many of the trucks are RTR now. Unless you're going to race somewhere, you'll probably find that everything you like is already built versus a kit. If you can't find a good project kit, you can always plan some interesting mods for the truck you have. You can strip it down, soak and degrease the bearings and reassemble it with some bling and performance parts.

Once I recover from my surgery which will probably take 3 months I'll be servicing the diffs and shocks etc on the big rock ready for the spring. I know from your previous build videos there's a lot of tiny parts to assemble so that might not be easy for me with my arthritis. Oh well it may not be an option.

Actually, that room is already getting tight... I had to move all the planes to a room next door. The overall basement is huge! It's coming together. I've got to move the mini-z track to a different section so I can add the expansion kit but then it will be a really fast track. I don't know if I mentioned it, but I got the timing system so I can track up to four cars at a time... it comes with four transponders but it may be able to track more at the same time, I'm not sure. Well, time to start cutting the videos from the RC10, RC10T builds and the vintage race. I'm going to try to get to a drifting event in the next two weeks... the shop near my house has a drift track that is open for practice whenever the shop is open. They are about 15-20 minutes away. BTW, have you been driving the truck this summer? It should have a good layer of dirt on it by now... I hope all goes well with the surgery! Are you nervous??? How about your wife? Is she worried about you going under the knife or is she reasonably confident? We'll be rooting for you!

I've had a blast running the big rock and also enjoyed letting others have a try at driving it. I'll be getting every last speck of dirt cleaned off it this week before my surgery stops me from doing anything for a few months. The surgery has cut my driving season short by at least a month but I'm getting desperate to have it done to hopefully reduce my pain level. The surgery does not concern me at all but my wife is already in panic mode. Once you get your hobby rooms completed I hope you can give us a tour of the various areas you set up. Take care and thanks for the videos and everything else I really appreciate it.

@@geordienufc3132 I'm so glad to hear that you're enjoying the truck! I hated hearing year after year that you were only getting to the field to fly a couple times the whole season. I knew your hands and finances were keeping you from enjoying the hobby as much as was otherwise possible. It was truly good medicine for the soul for us to hear your granddaughters laughing and having a great time playing with the truck. I'm glad that it's continuing to being you and others together for fun times. That's exactly what I was hoping it would do for you! I hope you get many years of fun from it! I'll definitely make a video tour of the basement when it's a little more complete. We've got movers coming next Friday to get the big stuff from the townhouse. Maybe we'll have that place sold by April. We've got a lot of equity built up in that property... and it's gone up in value by close to 50%. Looking forward to cashing it in.

@@teamottie Some people like it. Some people don’t.

@@garypalmer2066 That’s quite the testimonial! It it a solid frame regardless of what gear you put on it. It’s fantastic that you’re still able to ride at your age! More power to you!

There was some but I can't seem to find the video... I'll check my workstation and backup drives to see if I forgot to post a video or something. I've been moving into a new house and closing out my parent's estate. I'm just getting my hobby rooms set up and everything unpacked. New videos will be coming out in the next couple weeks. I'm planning to field 3 cars in the vintage nationals in early September (2wd buggy RC10, 2wd stadium truck RC10T, and 4wd buggy Yokomo 807c). I hope to get a lot of race videos over that weekend and I'll release build video playlists on all three cars. If I can find the video of the last time I ran that modded slash, I'll post it and comment here to let you know. I'll also be running it next spring. I could race it this fall, but I've got too many new kits on deck and several trips planned. Lots of new videos coming from those too! Thank for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott sounds like you are very busy. Dont sweat it I was just wondering :) maybe a future video idea as I think it would interest some people

@@BrandonKent-v4u I’m not sure. I’d have to disassemble the car and measure because it could be a 3.5 diameter shaft. At some point you’ll need them all if you continue in the hobby. If you hold the end of the shaft against a ruler, you should be able to tell if it’s 3 or 4mm.

@@sloth1992 Mini-z is a niche area of the overall RC hobby. Things fall in and out of interest for no particular reason. The biggest being if the is racing at local clubs and shops. If there’s no where to race a class of car, like F1 for example, the cars sit on the shelf. F1 can race on any track where 1/10 road cars are raced, but if people don’t show up with their F1 cars, the organizers stop listening F1 races. I got F1 started again at my club by bringing mine and asking other people to bring theirs. First there were three of us then five, afterwards a regular 6-8 cars. Mini-z is even harder to get going because it requires a specific track which is very expensive and is only useful for mini-z cars. If a lot of people don’t show regularly and pay to race, the organizers lose big time! It also attracts a lot of fanatical people with inflexible opinions about what the rules should be. I’ve experienced this firsthand when I tried to work with a group of people to standardize the class rules. I couldn’t get a consensus on anything to the point that my wife made me pull out because it was eating all my time and energy not to mention driving me crazy. This may lead to the high price. They don’t sell in large numbers so to make a profit and still keep the product available the price has to be a bit on the high side.

@@donmaine9613 Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@@dj7dust76 I use thin CA glue. Try to not let it run down the sides, just around the edges.