Big improvement over the alternator! I had a play with a peltier from a 12 volt mini fridge and used a candle for heat and a slightly bigger heat sink than you used for the cold side. I managed to just about get a tiny motor/propeller from a micro drone to spin. I ended up using the motor/propeller to blow cool air over the heat sink and it did boost the power a bit. I only measured about 1 volt. You would need to have a bunch of them wired in series to even think about getting any useful power out of them.
I have heard that the hoverboard motors are usually 3phase wired in parallel. If you rewire the 3 phases in series, you could potentially increase your voltage to closer to 110v. The amperage would most likely be lower, but this could be used to power small 110v household appliances. Super awesome stirling engine!
Excellent progress!!! Very happy to see some power output numbers!!! You are one of the few on all of youtube to actually show measured power. Most stirling engine videos show voltage output which is meaningless. I am more than sure you can get much more power out of the engine. The whole thing vibrates, swings, and flexes the mount. Those are all power leaks which could ultimately be improved. Looking forward to the next chapter!!!
Hehe lovely! Your Stirling engine is cracking. I’ve had a lot of experience with these motors building wind turbines and hydro turbines as I live off grid. The maximum in a gale ungeared was 200w’s. Your machine I assume has lots of torque power to push a gear system. If you can raise the speed of the hub to around 1-3 ratio to get 500-600 rpm you’ll see the full wattage. The problem wind is if you put gears on they become hard to turn along with a load makes for enormous blades. DIY and enormous blades don’t mix. I think you’ve cracked that problem..
Hi Perry, I did add some 6mm steel plates to the actual flywheel but yes, the balance is a still way off! Flywheel weights certainly would be a step in the right direction. For some reason I didn't really consider it while building it! I'll add it to the job list. All the best
Peltier elements are the sort of thing you might want to wrap around the flue just to scavenge a few watts. They're pretty horrendous efficiency, but any watts is better than no watts when the flue isn't doing anything except exhausting waste gases anyway. You'll also probably want a better heatsink for the cold side so you get more heat difference. Last time I did that I used a chipset-style sink like you have for the hot side, stuck over a candle flame, and an old heatpiped CPU heatsink for the cold side. You can also get peltiers designed for cooling/heating which are different from peltiers designed for energy scavenging, though they'll both do either task to some degree. All that said, that's a fantastic contraption you've got there. Better than my experiments with making microquad props spin with peltiers and tea-lights. c:
Thanks for your comments. I'll need to give the peltier idea another go. The "contraption" (I like that!) isn't without its design problems. I think all experiments are valid. The greatest discoverers of all time were made by accident!
Great Project, to measure amperage your meter needs to be in series with the load but is limited to 10a (you are surpassing that) a simple way to create a variable load is to buy a roll of resistive wire (heating element wire) ….simply moving an alligator further away(increasing length of wire) increases the resistance and lowers the amperage on the system or increases by moving shorter. I would move it shorter until the voltage begins to drop. This will determine your max load. Using the ohms law you can calculate wattage with known voltage and resistance.
Hi Joel, That's sounds like a good idea. Thanks for explaining that to me. I've still got a few gaps in my knowledge of how electric circuits react to load/voltage drop/resistance, cheers
I really am enjoying the progress and to be fair, you are making useful energy now - for example, you could stoke the fire for a 12 hr run and store some pixies in a battery bank - by burning rubbish, old engine oil, gas, etc and there is a way to burn old oil fairly cleanly so you don't have to stoke with wood or coal. But that is another chapter. If the firebox is converted to use air blowers - oil and diesel drip injector and a hot cone in place it would be off to the races. The kind of diesel burner used for heating water jackets for old school central heating - would light things up. I have to say if that happened this engine of yours would turn into a 24 hr donkey engine, plodding along mostly unattended. What do you think of that idea?
The cheap ebay peltiers will get damaged over about 150c they are also very low output power. the rated power on the advert is the input power. I had 4 together and it wasn't really enough to charge a cell phone.
Shane, When you experiment with a peltier module in the future consider making water tanks on each side to control the temps. One ice cold tank and one hot water tank, you can control and measure water temps more accurately then measuring electric output will also be more accurate.
@@terrafirma9328 Thats a good point yes. The thing to remember about seebec effect is that it is the difference in temperature. the colder the cold side is is as good as getting the hot side hotter.
Great video Im happy to see my suggestion on the hoverboard motor worked out well. I would also suggest using one of the cheap plug in car heaters as a load for your battery it will draw 10-15 amps. The watt meter your using can be powered independantly so you can keep the data on screen even if you disconect the battery. I look forward to your next video I have wanted to build one of these engines myself but have never had the opportunity. The peltier idea isnt viable with the cheap modules from ebay they are to inefficient not saying the idea doesnt have merrit as they use peltiers on RTGs that power satalites and rovers but these modules are not usually found on ebay something about radiation and red tape.
Hi Chris, yes thanks for the hoverboard suggestion and info on ebay peltier modules. I'm just about to start work on the next stirling engine and am hoping this will be simpler to build and not require machining tools. Thanks
very nice! I would think you could get better results with a smaller set... it would decrease the ammount of energy dissipated between friction, moving parts... heat disipation per se, etc...
The red light is on to indicate the turbine is spinning, the green light indicates the battery is connected properly. The brake comes on at 15 volts and only for a moment, to prevent charging over 14.8 volts,15 volts is the limit,you'll see the amperage and voltage drop off intermittent at 15 volts. I have several wind turbines, running the same controller on my little guy.
Peltier module need much bigger cooling system. There is the same principle as with Stirling engine, you need the biggest temperature difference as you can be made. But they still too expensive and have too small amount of efficiency.
information. at 2:34, bravo. for your comprehension. at 2:48, this is not torque; this is lenz-related DRAG/load. and, this drag does NOT occur, during a measurement of voltage.!!! consequently, a Correct voltage value NEEDS TO BE based on the LOWER engine rpms; as when the alternator output is Shorted. at 6:12, in this configuration, the alternator is NOT being drive via reduction.
I've got the voltmeter set to AC and am measuring the the voltage between 2 of the 3 phases (open circuit). These hoverboard motors are 3 phase brushless motors in their previous life
Still about! I ran the engine a few weeks ago and one of the linkages broke. I've been busy making new ones. Planning to re-test the generator at 24v and do an 6 hour endurance run. All the best
information. MANY aspects of the design of this engine are LESS-than ideal; at each such design flaw, energy is LOST.! these are SOME of the problems. the output of a ANY heat engine is ALWAYS low-torque.!!! consequently, the best efficiency will occur where an engine is Designed to operate as Fast as Possible. and, the first output stage should be a 'conversion' of rpms to Torque. in part, this NEEDS to be done in order to prevent excessive slowing of a low-torque prime mover, when it is loaded. (compare a small gearmotor; in which, Correct design results in a high motor speed.) this engine consists of two-pairs of cylinders/pistons. and, it should be understood that it is IMPOSSIBLE for any two heat engines to be 'tuned' EXACTLY the same. therefore, this type of joining of two engines IMPOSES synchronization; between the 'sides'. where cylinders are vertically oriented, GRAVITY opposes the movement of the pistons fifty percent of the time.!!! in order to achieve highest engine speed, it is CRITICAL that the mass in Each component that Reciprocates BE MINIMIZED; eg., PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS and WRIST PIN ASSEMBLIES.!!! the use of such rocker assemblies is NOT recommended. for TWO reasons: the reciprocating mass in the rockers acts as speed limiters/governors. and, the LENGTHS of the connecting rods be sufficient to 'smooth' the angular offset that occurs at each crank.!!! the way in which output energy is 'transferred from' the rockers to the output shaft is LESS-than ideal/efficient. NOTE that the output energy is CONCENTRATED at the output SHAFT; not at the outer radius of a flywheel.!!!!!! the output SHAFT is where the output energy should be taken off/used. an unmodified bldc motor makes a POOR alternator.!!! output energy should be taken off, at the output Shaft, via REDUCTION; of ten or more to one. googletranslate
Hi David, Thankyou for your comments. Yes, I believe the design is flawed in many ways and agree with most of your points (and have experienced the problems first hand while running the engine!). There were compromises made so a working engine could be built with limited facilities and a basic design. For instance, the hot piston is very long / heavy because it forms part of the annular heat exchanger passage and is needed to keep the seal away from the heat. The flywheel could have been on top of the engine but I didn't want it to be to tall and top heavy. Over the coming months, I'm going to be building a new engine. I'm going to do a video of the full build (including designing). Hopefully the Mk3 version will improve some of this! All the best
Big improvement over the alternator!
I had a play with a peltier from a 12 volt mini fridge and used a candle for heat and a slightly bigger heat sink than you used for the cold side. I managed to just about get a tiny motor/propeller from a micro drone to spin. I ended up using the motor/propeller to blow cool air over the heat sink and it did boost the power a bit. I only measured about 1 volt. You would need to have a bunch of them wired in series to even think about getting any useful power out of them.
I have heard that the hoverboard motors are usually 3phase wired in parallel. If you rewire the 3 phases in series, you could potentially increase your voltage to closer to 110v. The amperage would most likely be lower, but this could be used to power small 110v household appliances. Super awesome stirling engine!
Excellent progress!!! Very happy to see some power output numbers!!! You are one of the few on all of youtube to actually show measured power. Most stirling engine videos show voltage output which is meaningless. I am more than sure you can get much more power out of the engine. The whole thing vibrates, swings, and flexes the mount. Those are all power leaks which could ultimately be improved. Looking forward to the next chapter!!!
Hi, yes, not the most efficient engine but I hope to fix some of that with the Mk3 engine coming soon!
Love the photo bomb kid on the bike😅, and you engine/improvements too
Hehe lovely! Your Stirling engine is cracking. I’ve had a lot of experience with these motors building wind turbines and hydro turbines as I live off grid. The maximum in a gale ungeared was 200w’s. Your machine I assume has lots of torque power to push a gear system. If you can raise the speed of the hub to around 1-3 ratio to get 500-600 rpm you’ll see the full wattage. The problem wind is if you put gears on they become hard to turn along with a load makes for enormous blades. DIY and enormous blades don’t mix. I think you’ve cracked that problem..
Nice!
As a long time user of woodgas for my generators, your videos make me feel right at home.
Keep up the good work :) .
Shane could you add some counter weight to the flywheel cranks to offset the connecting rod weight. I think it will run so much more smoothly
Hi Perry, I did add some 6mm steel plates to the actual flywheel but yes, the balance is a still way off! Flywheel weights certainly would be a step in the right direction. For some reason I didn't really consider it while building it! I'll add it to the job list. All the best
This is a beautiful machine.
Acho que achou o gerador ideal pra esse motor. Impressionante os resultados.
Peltier elements are the sort of thing you might want to wrap around the flue just to scavenge a few watts. They're pretty horrendous efficiency, but any watts is better than no watts when the flue isn't doing anything except exhausting waste gases anyway. You'll also probably want a better heatsink for the cold side so you get more heat difference. Last time I did that I used a chipset-style sink like you have for the hot side, stuck over a candle flame, and an old heatpiped CPU heatsink for the cold side. You can also get peltiers designed for cooling/heating which are different from peltiers designed for energy scavenging, though they'll both do either task to some degree.
All that said, that's a fantastic contraption you've got there. Better than my experiments with making microquad props spin with peltiers and tea-lights. c:
Thanks for your comments. I'll need to give the peltier idea another go. The "contraption" (I like that!) isn't without its design problems. I think all experiments are valid. The greatest discoverers of all time were made by accident!
Great Project, to measure amperage your meter needs to be in series with the load but is limited to 10a (you are surpassing that) a simple way to create a variable load is to buy a roll of resistive wire (heating element wire) ….simply moving an alligator further away(increasing length of wire) increases the resistance and lowers the amperage on the system or increases by moving shorter. I would move it shorter until the voltage begins to drop. This will determine your max load. Using the ohms law you can calculate wattage with known voltage and resistance.
Hi Joel, That's sounds like a good idea. Thanks for explaining that to me. I've still got a few gaps in my knowledge of how electric circuits react to load/voltage drop/resistance, cheers
You should try using headlight bulbs as a load.
Hi Corky, great idea! I've just got an array of 12v bulbs on order for the next test, cheers
I really am enjoying the progress and to be fair, you are making useful energy now - for example, you could stoke the fire for a 12 hr run and store some pixies in a battery bank - by burning rubbish, old engine oil, gas, etc and there is a way to burn old oil fairly cleanly so you don't have to stoke with wood or coal. But that is another chapter. If the firebox is converted to use air blowers - oil and diesel drip injector and a hot cone in place it would be off to the races. The kind of diesel burner used for heating water jackets for old school central heating - would light things up. I have to say if that happened this engine of yours would turn into a 24 hr donkey engine, plodding along mostly unattended. What do you think of that idea?
Hi, Yes, that is a great idea! Could be worth an experiment. I'm not really happy with the furnace arrangement as it is. Thanks
The cheap ebay peltiers will get damaged over about 150c they are also very low output power. the rated power on the advert is the input power. I had 4 together and it wasn't really enough to charge a cell phone.
Hi John , that's interesting. I may have in fact cooked mine then! Might explain things!
@@ShanePomeroy very probably yes, if you want to test it, put a couple of volts into it and see if it pumps heat .
Shane,
When you experiment with a peltier module in the future consider making water tanks on each side to control the temps. One ice cold tank and one hot water tank, you can control and measure water temps more accurately then measuring electric output will also be more accurate.
@@terrafirma9328 Thats a good point yes. The thing to remember about seebec effect is that it is the difference in temperature. the colder the cold side is is as good as getting the hot side hotter.
bonjour mon ami excellent expérience, je serai d'avis un bobine est des aimant néodyme sur les deux bras en mouvement 👍🙏
That's a good idea, I'll write that one down!
Great video Im happy to see my suggestion on the hoverboard motor worked out well. I would also suggest using one of the cheap plug in car heaters as a load for your battery it will draw 10-15 amps. The watt meter your using can be powered independantly so you can keep the data on screen even if you disconect the battery. I look forward to your next video I have wanted to build one of these engines myself but have never had the opportunity. The peltier idea isnt viable with the cheap modules from ebay they are to inefficient not saying the idea doesnt have merrit as they use peltiers on RTGs that power satalites and rovers but these modules are not usually found on ebay something about radiation and red tape.
Hi Chris, yes thanks for the hoverboard suggestion and info on ebay peltier modules. I'm just about to start work on the next stirling engine and am hoping this will be simpler to build and not require machining tools. Thanks
very nice! I would think you could get better results with a smaller set... it would decrease the ammount of energy dissipated between friction, moving parts... heat disipation per se, etc...
Couldn't agree more! the losses are huge in this engine. When I build the mk3 engine it will be smaller, simpler but still easy to build, cheers
The red light is on to indicate the turbine is spinning, the green light indicates the battery is connected properly. The brake comes on at 15 volts and only for a moment, to prevent charging over 14.8 volts,15 volts is the limit,you'll see the amperage and voltage drop off intermittent at 15 volts. I have several wind turbines, running the same controller on my little guy.
Hi, great info, I could have done with that at the time! Cheers
you should try LG washing machine brushless motor, it already have neodym inside.
it will slow down like a windmill controller.... it wants to brake ... you need a diode bridge from 3 wires to 2
Yes your right, I experienced that during testing! All the energy was being turned into heat!
I also don't believe than temp claim. I heard the solder inside melts at 200c
I think I've destroyed my peltier cell! I'll have another go with a new one another day
your project so beautifull
and you have Creative main🌹🌹
Peltier module need much bigger cooling system. There is the same principle as with Stirling engine, you need the biggest temperature difference as you can be made. But they still too expensive and have too small amount of efficiency.
👍👍
information. at 2:34, bravo. for your comprehension. at 2:48, this is not torque; this is lenz-related DRAG/load. and, this drag does NOT occur, during a measurement of voltage.!!! consequently, a Correct voltage value NEEDS TO BE based on the LOWER engine rpms; as when the alternator output is Shorted. at 6:12, in this configuration, the alternator is NOT being drive via reduction.
Hi David, I needed to look up lenz's law to start to understand your comment! Could you explain the last bit to me again, many thanks
at 6:46, AC volts are coming out of the alternator.!!!!!!!
I've got the voltmeter set to AC and am measuring the the voltage between 2 of the 3 phases (open circuit). These hoverboard motors are 3 phase brushless motors in their previous life
next time you better use a pto generator. you know! Power take off generator. that alternator being attached at the back of farm tractor.
I'll look at that, many thanks
Shane where did you go. ??
Still about! I ran the engine a few weeks ago and one of the linkages broke. I've been busy making new ones. Planning to re-test the generator at 24v and do an 6 hour endurance run. All the best
👍
You need to measure current in a circuit, like generator + -> load -> amp meter-> generator -
a wheel from a hover board? is that an oxymoron?
I suppose it is really. No idea who came up with it (or why!). There must of been alot of disappointed people who bought one!
Знакомьтесь с клавиатурой Gboard! Здесь будет сохраняться текст, который вы копируете.🎉
information. MANY aspects of the design of this engine are LESS-than ideal; at each such design flaw, energy is LOST.! these are SOME of the problems.
the output of a ANY heat engine is ALWAYS low-torque.!!! consequently, the best efficiency will occur where an engine is Designed to operate as Fast as Possible. and, the first output stage should be a 'conversion' of rpms to Torque. in part, this NEEDS to be done in order to prevent excessive slowing of a low-torque prime mover, when it is loaded. (compare a small gearmotor; in which, Correct design results in a high motor speed.)
this engine consists of two-pairs of cylinders/pistons. and, it should be understood that it is IMPOSSIBLE for any two heat engines to be 'tuned' EXACTLY the same. therefore, this type of joining of two engines IMPOSES synchronization; between the 'sides'.
where cylinders are vertically oriented, GRAVITY opposes the movement of the pistons fifty percent of the time.!!!
in order to achieve highest engine speed, it is CRITICAL that the mass in Each component that Reciprocates BE MINIMIZED; eg., PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS and WRIST PIN ASSEMBLIES.!!!
the use of such rocker assemblies is NOT recommended. for TWO reasons: the reciprocating mass in the rockers acts as speed limiters/governors. and, the LENGTHS of the connecting rods be sufficient to 'smooth' the angular offset that occurs at each crank.!!!
the way in which output energy is 'transferred from' the rockers to the output shaft is LESS-than ideal/efficient.
NOTE that the output energy is CONCENTRATED at the output SHAFT; not at the outer radius of a flywheel.!!!!!!
the output SHAFT is where the output energy should be taken off/used.
an unmodified bldc motor makes a POOR alternator.!!! output energy should be taken off, at the output Shaft, via REDUCTION; of ten or more to one. googletranslate
Hi David, Thankyou for your comments. Yes, I believe the design is flawed in many ways and agree with most of your points (and have experienced the problems first hand while running the engine!).
There were compromises made so a working engine could be built with limited facilities and a basic design. For instance, the hot piston is very long / heavy because it forms part of the annular heat exchanger passage and is needed to keep the seal away from the heat. The flywheel could have been on top of the engine but I didn't want it to be to tall and top heavy.
Over the coming months, I'm going to be building a new engine. I'm going to do a video of the full build (including designing). Hopefully the Mk3 version will improve some of this!
All the best
you wont a teg module not a tec
🤔That may of been my issue! I bought some cheap units from china but wasn't aware of the two types. I think further experimentation is in order......
@@ShanePomeroy oh yeah hell of a price difference between teg and tec prices
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