Blocked PCV leads to leaks, my FJ Cruiser uses the same engine and I use PAO group IV synthetic 5W-40 here in tropics. It's changed every 6000km or six months, whatever comes first. I also use an oil catch can that I need to drain every year, so far, the residue from blowby is quite low. As usual I look forward to your show and thoroughly enjoy every one of them.
Amen, brother! For some brands like Nissan and their Renault-designed engines, I recommend checking the PCV at 30,000 miles and changing it no matter what at 60,000 miles. With Toyota, I generally think that changing it at the same time as the plugs is probably a good idea unless that particular engine has a reputation for burning oil. Since those are all old engines that have the oil-burning reputation, it's not very widespread.
@@chanoleyva8584 my yearly driving is under 30k and my can is bit more than half full by then, this with group IV PAO synthetic oil. There is large discussion at Tacoma forum as well as Aussie FJ Cruiser and HiLux forum regarding this.
Emissions and CAFE requirements are driving manufacturers to cut emissions any way they can. This is the number one consideration today. The new Tacoma will come with a 2.4L turbo to cut emissions in half from the current 3.5L V6. Lighter viscosity engine oil helps to reduce emissions as well. I fully agree with 5k engine oil changes. Been doing that on my brand new 2020 Tacoma since day one. I plan to keep it a long time as I do with all my vehicles. If you change vehicles often do the minimum maintenance required, sell and move on.
Alway interesting to see people who pay $30K+ for a vehicle and cheap out on oil changes. A change at a service station is $80-$90 and you can do it yourself for $40-$50. I do it every 5K miles
on my two Dodge Caravan 3.3 iron block engines I 'always changed the oil every 3,000 Km. I don't do in-the-snow oil changes anymore ( getting too old for that) so timing that last fall oil change & the spring one is tricky. Usually, we get 1 or 2 mild days up here in Canada in January so it isn't a choir. 350,000 on the 93 engine & so far 292,500 km on my 07 engine. No leaks/ no oil consumption. Do it yourself and shop around for oil filter sales and oil sales. Then you know it is done right. I have and still, use Wally-Mart oil 90% of those oil changes spanning 34 years so far. Getting a new 2023 Corolla Cross in 1.5 months. And no, I will not be doing 10,000 Km nor 0w-16 oil, but rather 0w-20 oil top-grade Castrol oil. We shall see.
I find it interesting that people actually trust manufacturer recommendations. I use 5k mileage oil, but still change it at 3k. The same goes with transmission oil; even with light driving, the transmission oil NEVER lasts the prescribed amount of miles. When your oil starts looking dirty, let it go a little longer and then change it. Preventative maintenance is cheaper than buying another set of wheels.
Well done and explained vid, thanks for posting this. I completely agree the long intervals I first noticed a decade or so ago here in the NY Metro area. A lot of the higher end manufacturers like BMW were promoting included maintenance in their lease promos. I believe annual or every 12-15,000 miles. Many of these engines were down a quart or two of oil before owners were changing their oil following these "marketing department" recommendations. I'm sure this practice damaged/destroyed many engines. Additionally many vehicle owning consumers remain misinformed.
I own a 2007 1GRFE Toyota Hilux. 5W30 does it perfect and is stated as the correct oil in the manual and printed on the oil filler lid. Many people here in Western Australia also use 5W40. I change my oil every 5000kms, as it gets very hot here in summer (40°+) and these engines need clean oil.
2009 Toyota Tacoma owner here. My Tacoma has the 1GR-FE engine and the A750 Transmission. The oil filler cap on the engine, and the owners manual in the truck states 5W30 is the correct oil. Do NOT use 0W20! And change the oil AT MAX every 5K miles (or less).
@@oday3514 my 2009 says 5w30. I'm not sure which year toyota switched over to 0w20, but my impression was for better gas mileage and efficiency numbers.
Not here to argue. Owned 2006 4.0. Oil fil cap specified 5/30 with Mobil factory fill. I logged 185,000 miles over 14 years changing the oil every 5k as specified by Toyota maintenance schedule. Mobill 1 synthetic. The engine ran like new when I sold the truck.
The long intervals were introduced in the United States as a direct result of the EPA's overall requirements to decrease dependence on petroleum products. As with all pie-in-the-sky type of edicts from a non-elected authority, the unintended consequences have been that there are more engines burning oil much earlier in their lives because of those long intervals. In addition, more cars get trashed and ultimately junked when the engines fail tens, if not hundreds of thousands of miles earlier than if they were maintained properly. Sure, the marketing department will try to make it sound all great, but they're just putting whipped cream on a turd pie. Another thing people stretch out too long or don't do it all are the transmission fluid (60k), differential and transfer case fluids (30k). If you tow something, you have change all those fluids earlier, even the oil in most cases.
I change mine after every 3000km (not mile) (my daily driver car is 1.3 L 2003 Toyota Vitz with 2SZ Engine). I live in Africa (Dar Es Salaam-Tanzania) where is always hot (32c plus, so i usually use 10W-40 fully synthetic oil), now the car has 300,000km on clock, I opened the top engine cover to replace the gasket rubber and found the engine top still looking like new, no black oil deposits glued on camshafts nor surfaces of top cover. also, regardless of all these kilometers on engine and transmission (CVT transmission) the car has no oil burning issues and runs perfect, and I have never had any issue that let me stranded even though I have been using the same car to go for long trips (Ie covering 1,200Km in one day)
I have a 1zz-fe with 340,000 miles on it using Amsoil 5w-30, changing it every 10-11,000 miles, and it does us a drop. Just changed the valve cover gasket because it was starting to leak, and that is the 1st time the engine has ever been open. I'm figuring it will go another 300,000 or more. One of these days, I might do the timing chain.
You nailed it @ 14:51, with Toyota, it's all about the gas mileage. They don't care if your engine wears out. Can I trust a company that's telling me to change my oil at 15,000km? Thank god I know better. :) In my 2015 Hiace van owners manual, they list four motor oils I can use in my 2TR-FE engine. They list 0w-20 at the top being the best for fuel economy, next is 5w-20, 5w-30 and last is 10w-30. What Toyota doesn't emphasize which is equally important is, to pick the oil based on the climate where you live. This summer in this hot climate my engine's getting 5w-30. At the end of November I will change to 0W-30 for the winter time and year round from that point. The oil is changed every 6 months which is the more important factor. Max engine protection is my goal, not fuel economy.
It’s perfectly fine to use thicker oil in the 4.0. The variable timing does not care. The only reason 20 weight and 16 weight exist is because the government is constantly holding a knife to the auto manufacturers throats to squeeze every microscopic drop of extra fuel economy out of all the engines.
It will be interesting to see if the engines last as long with that new super thin oil as they did with the slightly thicker oil used for the last 15, or so years. A thinner film of oil will remain on parts like the camshaft during the first second or two seconds after start up. For vehicles not driven every day, I could see a slight increase in wear. We will know in a few more years.
If the engine is engineered for a thin grade of oil, it shouldn't make a difference. Thin oil flows faster - I imagine thin oil flows faster between bearings, carrying away heat more efficiently. No matter the grade, all oil flows down in the pan - if an oil were so thick like glue as to stick to components with the engine off, I'd be more concerned.
Oil viscosity specifications have been reduced by the engine manufacturers for years. 10W30 or 10W40 used to be commonly specified. Now, 5W30, 5W20, and even 0W20 are common. Changing your oil every 3000-5000 miles is the key.
Mobil1 is not what it used to be. If you really want to go 10K between oil changes use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic. If you want to go longer use the more expensive Amsoil. Those are the only two I trust to last that long without breaking down to the point your engine may be damaged.
Have you watched the Project Farm channel with the "Super Bowl" oil final competition, with Amsoil edging out P.U.P., but my budget only permits P.U.P.?
@@02markcal I think amsoil did win the project farm test but the pup was a very close second around me amsoil is about $16 a qt and pup is around $14 a qt, sometimes you can get lucky and catch it for $7 though
@@thetechlibrarian Believe it or not I just looked up what I paid per quart for PUP and after the $12.50 rebate per 5-quart jug, it came to $2.49 per quart, so make sure to check Pennzoil rebates before purchasing their oil. To qualify I had to buy 2-5 quart jugs and then after submitting the rebate, I was sent a $25 gift card, so I got 10 quarts at $2.49 per quart for PUP.
@@02markcal yeah that’s a good deal for sure. A definite no brainer at that price, I was even happy to pay 7 a qt then another 12 or so for a trd filter and I’m still coming in cheaper than most places and using a way better product,I actually just did mine the other day, I took it to 7900k this time and the oil still looked really good and as recently as December I had about 6500k on it and it was very golden still, I used to go to the dealer before they raised there prices $25.00 and there oil was looking pretty rough at 5k
We took our 2022 Rav4 Hybrid for it's first free 6 month/5,000 mile check and the dealer says that no oil change until 10,000 miles but we can elect to do the 2nd check (10,000 mile) service which includes tire rotation and oil change. When we picked it up the invoice says 0W-20 oil, not the recommended 0W-16 as in the owner's manual. I'm thinking of just using 0W-20 instead from now on.
Your situation is very similar to my wife's interaction with our local Toyota Dealership with her 2022 Toyota Corolla, I was very surprised that the first appointment did not include the oil change. To my wife's annoyance I strongly urged her to insist on the oil change when she went back to re-torque her tires. My next action item is to re-check her oil change to verify the oil grade and weight and triple-check her Owner's manual. She reached ~7,500 KMs and while it's not 8,000KMs which is close enough for me to deem an oil change for her city commute. So the 10,000KM Oil change is factory-outlined, this explains my Dealership's information "that the policy has changed" for scheduled maintenance. I will opt to old practice and just change the oil every 8,000KMs.
Yes, I am going to 5000 miles between oil changes. With the newer engines, you run the risk of burning oil using the 10000 mile intervals for changing the oil.
09 Corolla here which engine start using 0w20. I try 5 w30 once I don't like engine response. Vvt are slow react. Next oil change I change back to 0w20 car is back to good response. It still use 1 quart for 3000 mile but it pretty normal for low tension ring I guess.
beginning in 2016, the USA 4Runner scheduled maintenance guide called for 10,000 mile oil changes and the use of 0W-20 oil in the 1GR-FE V6: assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/omms-s/T-MMS-164Runner/pdf/2016_Toyota%204Runner_WMG_lr.pdf
Sales will have mileage interval based on company liability, which is the maximum length of warranty. If vehicle falls apart after warranty, then it is your problem. 😲🙃😲
Usually those side projects are done for content and then sold away or cheaply given to a college student in the area for a good price because they need to get around. He might be working on it if they take it to him for maintenance. But who knows. It hasn't been seen in a long while. No mention either. Like a ghost in the black forest.
The last time I bought anything in the dollar store the dollar items went up to $1.25, so the name of the store should be changed to the dollar and a quarter store, to be accurate.
So you are claiming the engines are designed for the oil they suggest. Then why in 2013 did several car companies switch from 5w 30 to 0w20 overnight but only in the US because of new fuel economy regulations and tax credit? Do you really think the engines were redesigned overnight we just bought a 2024 Subaru Impreza. Same engine since the 80s but okay let's say it was designed for thiner flow then why does it suggest in this country 0w 16 but in Japan it recommends for best performance 0w 30. ? Are the engines different in different countries. If you buy a Ford F-150 here it will suggest 0w 20 but in many other countries options are up to 10w40 with the same engine. If it was not for the fuel economy push, tax credit and thicker oil recommended another countries I would easily believe the engine was designed for the specific oil recommended but that's not the case. I don't know what's true or not. I can tell you we took our Subaru home with 8miles miles on it, and changed out the oil 0w 30. The oil they recommend in Japan model and engine.
So very few of us run a vehicle to the requirements of a 10K oil change interval that the OEM should never recommend it. Essentially very little idling, little city driving, and no country roads at low speeds. If you just drive straight freeway miles then 10K works well.
If your vehicle has an electric oil pump, then stick to the 0W-16 or whatever the manufacturer calls out for because it was designed and programmed with that viscosity in mind.
2019 Tacoma TRD & have run Schaeffer's oil 0W-20 since new. Changes about 6-8k but do a bit of off road travel. Schaeffer's will edge out Mobile1 & if you send in a sample they will even tell you how much life you have left in your oil.
10K oil changes risk engine damage regardless if oil analysis still says the oil is good. Sit through the video below to learn why. Oil analysis sounds scientific, but it doesn't tell the owner when gummy deposits are starting to accumulate on certain vital engine parts: ruclips.net/video/TJhFAwFv-O0/видео.html
My 1GR-FE 4.0L in my 2008 calls for 5w30 on the cap and in the manual.....so which is it? was the engine *designed* for 5w30 or 0w20? If they 'redesigned' the engine around a new oil viscosity, then why would it still be a 1GR-FE? Isn't the change to 0w20 by the factory an attempt at increasing fuel economy and ignores (or is in spite of) additional wear form the lower visc oil that what it was designed around (the 5w30 from 2002 till 2009). Or did the change from VVT-i to Dual VVT-i also change the oil weight? 0w20 was not used by toyota before 2009 as far as i can tell.....
Using good quality full synthetic oil, and a good quality filter for 10K or 6 months is ok if the vast majority of your miles are highway miles. If you're mostly in stop and go traffic (like city driving), then you absolutely need to change your oil every 5K regardles of how good your oil and filter are.
But isn’t what the multi grade oils are made for. So they will work in whatever temperatures the engine goes through in its day. From start up to stop and go in the city and or long haul highway driving. Just asking.
@@dominickmercado2284 it's not me it's Peter and remember there is appointment necessary. Probably only detailed inspection and maintenance jobs because if the one in a million chance happens some part is out of stock or supply chain makes poor quality the warranty will be six hours away. But you can call the shop if interested. It's one of the top rated shops in Humboldt County near the college.
There are several internal screens and small passages on the newer engines with VVT. I’ve seen those clog up from extended drains and improper oil weight. To meet the 5w20 oil spec and lighter the oil must be partially synthetic, 5w30 oil can be anything from basic conventional oil to full synthetic. I’m saying stick with the 5w20, 0w20 oils they meet the most modern standards. Why overthink things, the new low emission diesel engines run a 5w30 oil but it must be diesel rated 5w30. My main thought is if running 10 to 15k oil changes you need high quality synthetic, the conventional oils start to sludge up at that many miles and start to clog things up. Most people think you can go 15k miles with any oil.
It's already been demostrated that synthetic is NOT capable of preventing gooey oil flow clogging deposits from gradually forming between 5,000 - 10,000 miles of use in late model Toyota engines that have low tension piston oil control rings and fine metal mesh VVti oil control valve filter screens: imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4035/R0xySv.jpg
The oil myth worshippers are still trying to convince me that 0w20 and 0w30 are "super-thin" oils, while most OEMs have gone to 0W16. The winter grade equivalent of zero is still 20 and 30 weight at operating temperature. 0w is just a cold start property which means it flows better on cold starts.
I have the same engine in my Land Cruiser Prado. I live in Guyana, averages about 32 degrees Celsius what oil would you recommend? Thank you for your input.
Hope you are staying warm and dry Pete. Avoid the Tonkotsu Ramen at costco in the six pack bowls. Not very tasty. Your usual plastic bowl ones are better. PLUS free inspection container for after!
My big question to the owner is what amount of oil is he burning which could indicate problems or if it's poor running. I'd like to hear about the engine cleaner too and which he uses. Plus that 0W-16 is WAAY too thin. I would immediately go to 0W-20. As for the 1GR, he should go back for sure but depending on climate either 0W or 5W-20. Unless he's in Arizona or the desert.
I have a question about oil capacity. The 2uzfe in my 2001 Sequoia has an oil capacity of 6.5 quarts. I’ve always heard that it’s better to be a little under the full mark than over it on the dipstick. When I change it I put in 6 qts so I don’t have to buy 7 and then waste half a quart. It sits right under the full mark on the dipstick. Is this okay long term?
The reason you don't want to overfill any crankcase is that the crank will be too far into the oil and churn a bunch of air into it. This can cause a loss of oil pressure and lack of flow because the pump is wasting energy compressing the air bubbles instead of just moving the oil.
You can always buy your 7 qts and then put your half qt you have left over on your shelf capped and save it till your next oil change. That way every other oil change your are only buying 6 qts🤷♂. But you should be alright.
lol I have an 09 Prius also. When I first got it I did the same thing cause I didn’t know it was burning oil until the triangle light was coming on every time I would make a left turn. I checked the oil and it took 2.5 quarts to fill. Ever since I’ve been checking the oil every week
Great vid. If you hve chance im trying to repair my 2008 tacoma 4*4 rugged trail accesscab Im trying to track down inner and outer tie rods alot of parts places dont always give info for parts Do you know what inner and outers will work by part number Also want boots trying to save rack. Some dealers are showing outer but inners are not saying they are for my version. Thanks
Wheeler's or someone like that sells heavy duty ones... I have an entire rack that was in a fender bender while on the road. It's now just sitting here and I can ship them to you If you need me to... nothing wrong with them at all. Holler if you need me to send you the inner rod ends. I have the front axle, along with all suspension parts complete and still on the frame like it came from the factory. Good luck...
What I don’t understand is your logic in telling the owner he shouldn’t be trying to outsmart system/manufacturer etc., by switching from the recommended 0w-20 oil because obviously, they know what the design requires and THEN you tell him to ignore manufacturers recommended oil change intervals! Now either the maker knows what is required in both instances, or they don’t! This pick and choose business doesn’t add up. People can do whatever they like… if they want to change oil once a week go for it. If they never change it, fine by me. Engineers a whole lot more educated than I am designed these engines and they have determined what is proper maintenance schedules for long service. Just KISS and follow the instructions and everything will be fine.
He was talking about the GRADE of oil and not the change interval. Use the correct grade of oil but shorten the time/mileage between changes. Not contradictory at all. Toyota engines with low tension oil control rings burn oil for this very reason. Rings get clogged with carbon from dirty oil from long change intervals.
Common sense people. Change your oil per the manufacturers recommendation, period! In my case, I change a little before the recommendation. Why not, like Peter said, it’s very easy to do, especially on this engine, on any engine! And you don’t have to buy the super expensive, overpriced boutique oils. Just change it often! And, IMHO, our government SHOULD be mandated fuel mileage regulations for the auto manufacturers! Carbon from the burning of fossil fuels has been killing the planet since the beginning of the industrial revolution! Electric vehicles aren’t the real answer either, maybe hydrogen fuel cell. Good video Pete! Stay dry!
No ,I change my oil every one thousand miles, I own a Dodge Durango, 2 Ford f150, 95 ,96 Nissan qx4 Dodge B 250 van every one thousand miles ,...95 F 150 has 4530000 miles still sounds like new
I overfilled my engine with oil by about 3 litres in my 1996 Camry V6 because I thought the engine had no oil as the disptick was clear. How do I know if I destroyed any seals in my engine?
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training I ran the engine for 50 miles before I removed some oil. Is that ok? I think the leak was preexisting because my dipstick was clear when I overfilled the engine with oil.
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training Shit. Maybe that's why. I just had the valve cover gaskets replaced in 2019 while I was changing spark plugs to save on labor costs. I only traveled 50 miles after I overfilled the engine with oil, will that cause damage?
I change my 0w16 every 5k i use Toyota oem oil Mobil one valvolene don't hsve rc spec like Toyota wants. Plus im not saving more then 10$ i trust Toyota additives. My old camry i used cheapest oil money can buy over 300k transmission failed engine flawless
Of course you can get by with 10k+ mile intervals, that's never been the real debate. As an analogy, you can drink and party until late at night then go to work the next day fine when you're 18 years old. You're made out of rubber and recover crazy fast. Try doing that same routine when you're 60+ years old. I think you catch my drift. If you care about getting the full potential out of your car, synthetic 5k miles or 6 months. Even more frequent if you want. I take the advice of engine builders and engineers, not random internet people and incentivized journalists.
A lot of variables. Type of driving, oil capacity, oil temp... Some Toyota's have oil coolers. Oil temp is one of the main causes of oil breakdown per engineers. Oil analysis is the only real way to know. Don't know why Toyota is one of the few that has not gone to maintenance/% minders like Honda and others. Computer takes into account temp, load , speed etc. based on testing over millions of miles backed up by oil analysis. Mercedes even goes beyond with an on vehicle type of oil analysis. Most with full syn can easily and safely go 7.5k or more. The 5k is the old Jiffy Lube 3k change.
I change my oil and filter at 3,000 Miles . My old shop teacher told us " If You forget everything Ive ever taught You , Remember if you change your oil and filter often , Your motors will last a long time ". Even though that was in the Old days before Synthetic oil , I still keep my oil changed .
In my 2006 Tacoma, the owner's manual states 10W-30 oil can be used but should be replaced with 5W-30 oil on the next oil change. I had about 3-5 quart jugs of 10W-30 left over from my previous truck, which I used during the summer months, so as not to waste the oil.
10W-30 vs 5W-30 only matters during warmup - during operating temps they are identical and in a warm climate identical in general since it never freezes - same with 0w20 vs 5w20
Here is where I will argue with Peter that this engine is designed for multiple oil viscosities search the Mexico owners manual for that truck and other countries and we will see higher viscosity oil’s recommended. It’s the same exact engine. It only reason it’s 0W 20 in the USA is for CAFE.
Interesting. 2015 Tacoma owner. Central Canada. 5w30 on the cap and in the manual. Always used 5w30 synthetic in mine. About 6000 km intervals. 2015 4runner we also own does take 0w20. But that is next iteration of that 4.0 engine.
2015 Taco Ltd. 4.0. Central Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 with cold temps. Oil cap and manual says 5w30. Running Pennzoil platinum 5w30 synthetic. Oil change every 6 months or 8000 km. Also have a 2011 Venza 3.5 V6 .. cap says 5w-30 but 2012 calls for 0w20 with the same engine. Can’t figure that one out ? Follow what the engineers call for I guess 🤷♂️
@@miketennent9036 Every manufactured oil is slightly different. It is not like no matter what brand you buy that all the 0w20's will be the same. They vary. Also to note is that 0w16 vs 0w40 is basically false advertising. The "0" should correspond to a particular viscosity but it doesn't. If the numbers were true then the 0w16 would be same in cold as 0w40 but differ while hot. Conclusion: Read the actual specs. Cold viscosity in lighter oils is anywhere from 30-45 CentiStokes or Centipoise and hot from 7-9. Middle weights will go 50-70 (maybe even 80) cold and 11-13.5 when hot. Nobody uses heavier oils in engines anymore so no need to discuss that. The major variations are cold viscosity performance.
I have gone down the Rabbit hole of engine oil and engine oil viscosities when researching my 2021 Tundra. I believed that 0w20 is too thin of an oil and felt it needed 5w30 at the bare minimum. After much research i found nothing that proofs 0w20 negatively affecting the 3ur-fe but at the same time i found nothing proving that 5w30 negatively affects the 3ur-fe. Some countries run heavier oils because of harsh hot climates. some as high as 10w30. It has been seen that the same toyota engines manuals in different countries ask for different weights. This could be due to the CAFE/EPA standards here in the states wanting to squeeze more MPG. But at the same time ive seen people get 400-500k miles running the thin oils. so honestly WTF knows. Ill continue to run my 0w20 .
Ive got a 2020 Tundra TRD Pro and did a bunch or research and plan on sticking with the 0w-20. I live in AZ and it's a hot environment but there's so many trucks running up the miles with light weight oil. We'll see what happens.
I did tons of research also and I can say I am gonna stick to 0w20 oil in my 2021 Tundra. I talked to my mechanic who possessed tons of experience and he also stated I should stick to 0w20 as long as I drive in a normal race free manner staying within CA climate zone. The only thing he encouraged me was to changed every 3000 miles if I am planning to keep the car forever.
I’ve used Mobil 1 full syn in all my Toyota cars never had an issue, I even use 10-40 oil in my track car( 1985 corolla) in 2018 pulled the engine apart because low compression, pushed that motor to the limit for 5 years of track driving / drifting sometimes over 90F weather. When I pulled apart motor still ran fine, just low compression and all rod and main crank bearing were super clean , not much wear or no burn marks. Ever since I use nothing but Mobil 1
by the manual: -hi mileage oil change is only allowed if you drive long distances by highway, with short drives / city driving ' towing or hauling, 5000 miles is maximum -if foreign manuals allow thicker oils for your engine, your engine was designed for thicker oils, 0w20 or 0w16 or 0w8 is then only for CAFE standards (ie your gov "helping" you yet again), if foreign manuals state a thinner oil then your engine has the new style / positively disastrous low tension / useless oil rings in which case you re stuck with thinner oils and don t even think of extended mileage oil change intervals
I've never heard of any Toyota engine being prone to oil leaks. However, the ones made between the early 2000s and the mid-teens are prone to oil consumption (aka oil burning). Between those years, many manufacturers including Toyota experimented with reducing the oil ring pressure on the cylinder walls. This was supposed to increase MPG by reducing the resistance placed on the pistons as they move through the cylinders. Less resistance = less effort needed = less fuel consumption = greater MPG. At least, that's how it was supposed to work in theory. In practice though, it leaves more oil on the cylinder walls during the compression and firing strokes. This of course, means more oil gets burned. Unfortunately, the only permanent way to remedy this would be to replace the oil rings, which is totally not worth the cost. That's why manufacturers recommend thinner oil for these engines. Thinner oil flows better & leaves less residue in the cylinders. This is especially important with engines that have VVT. What you have to do between oil changes is check your oil level at least once a week and add oil as needed. That's really all you can do for this.
I don’t believe the leak theory. I have a 2021 4runner at 46k and a 2020 at 18k miles. Neither leak. 5k oil changes on both. Also I haven’t added oil to either between oil changes.
The person asking the question either mistakes the year of the truck or is confused about the recommended oil type. The 2015 has a 4.0 designed for 5w-30 (with 10w-30 possible as a non-consecutive use alternative) I have an 06 taco with the 4.0 with almost 180k miles and use full synthetic high mileage 5w-30 at 5k mile intervals. It doesn’t leak or burn oil. It gets traditional 5w-30 once a year when I have my mechanic do an oil change and and annual full inspection, then back the the synthetic.
People often say, "Well I live in a hot area. I should use a thicker oil like 30w or 40w." The oil temps are controlled on these modern engines very well. The intercooler keeps the oil at a relatively stable temp so the viscosity is consistent. I would be comfortable using 5w-20 over 0w-20 in the summer simply because the 5w-20 is a less volatile oil, requires less viscosity modifiers to stretch that range. On the 0w-20, it has to bridge the 20 weight range, but the 5w-20 only needs to bridge a 15w range. And at reasonable temps of 0F or above, the difference in starting viscosity is negligible. That 0w will be far better at extreme cold. Most 5w-20 oils are more shear stable, due to less viscosity modifiers, and so will stay in grade longer than 0w-20s all else equal. 5w-30 has to be made to bridge a 25w range, and so compared to 0w-20, when you look at the oil spec sheets, you see a far less shear stable oil in the 5w-30s over 0w-20s. All of this becomes basically pointless when you are talking about oil change intervals of 5k or less, so long as you are using a good quality 0w-20. Toyota does not *require* 0w-20. They simply recommend it. If you reference the owners manual on the newer vehicles, you will see what the exact oil requirements are. Toyota only mandates an ilsac gf-6a oil, which could be a 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30. What toyota says is that "for the best fuel economy you should use 0w-20." It is intentionally ambiguous on the part of Toyota to "recommend" 0w-20, but not require it. I wish Toyota would be more clear in their wording. In reality, as long as one's oil is matched to the climate appropriately, and oil change intervals are done properly, 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30 using a GF-6A oil will be more than adequate.
Gotta love all those seemingly smart people that take the time to send questions/issues and wait for magic answers. Sorry buttercup, if you are the kind that cannot investigate and understand yourself, you shall then have no shame in paying $75 an hour for somebody that did bother to check, investigate and learn!!
Great video!! I'm lost in the 70s I have for last 52 years changed oil n filter every 3500 miles what I was taught. Have 2016 kia soul and just bought a 89 Toyota 4x4 3.0 engine 5speed not running but will eventually get it going. What brand and weight of oil would you suggest on the 3,0 engine with 235000 miles? Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
5-30 is factory for 3.0 Also factor in what he said about temperatures , if you have extreme cold winters under 30F thinner oil will be better off during cold months also vise versa for super hot summer months over 100F days thicker oil
It depends for how long you plan to keep the truck. Usually 30K miles is the interval you should stick to when you deal with regular transmission. Do not listen to anybody and always keep you transmission fluid clean by servicing it every 30k miles and it will last for ages
Why does my 2015 tacoma manual call for 5w30 if you say it is designed for 0w20? My manual says if the truck has the 4 cylinder engine use 0w20. It says if it has the 1grfe use 5w30 OR 10W30. SO WTF IS GOING ON? WHICH IS CORRECT? I've never seen anything online saying to use 0w20 in a 1GR.
My 2023 4Runner manual says to use 0w-20, same 1GR motor as a 2015 Taco.Major change to the 1GR was in 2010. Can't see why Toyota would build two different versions of the 1GR for the 4Runner and the Tacoma. None of this seems to make sense.
@jeffsullivan3101 I've been running 10w-30 in mine for the last 100,000 miles & it seems to be working just fine. MPG sucks though... 13.5 mpg is the best I can get. Its a work truck though so its akway loaded down heavily.
My third generation (2003 - 2009) has this engine and a 'maintenance" indicator light will illuminate on the instrument panel every 4000 miles to tell that the engine oil needs to be changed! The light has to be manually reset by following a procedure written in the owners manual so you know how Toyota feels about it.
I’m on highway 90 percent of my drive for 62 miles each way to work and home. Also a 2021 4Runner, I do 5k oil changes with Redline 0W-20. Lots of zinc in it.
Hi, I'd like to know please your opinion on engine oil treatments, usually poured in with the engine oil, if these can really help to cleanup sludge or residue from dirty oil inside the engine. Toyota Highlander 2012, 2.7 I4 engine, 140k miles. Thank you for your great channel and advice.
@@4af Lifetime from new Full synthetic 5W30 in Australia for our 2013 Hyundai Premium i30 CRDi 1.6 turbo every 7,500KMs (5,000miles) @ 184,000 Km's (114,000miles) and it's providing 45mpg city and 65mpg highway and 6 speed auto and pulls like a freight train up most any incline at 70-80mph at 2,000 -2500rpm in 6th gear. Never kicks down thanks to the turbo diesel torque. Cheers.
What's the service history of the previous owners? Check if the dealer has any service records. Is it having shifting problems now? If you change it, save the old fluid in case you have problems. It's a partial drain and fill because a large amount of fluid is kept in the TC. If there's problems you can drain it again and fill back the old fluid to hopefully go back to before with a small amount of new fluid. Generally they're Aisin robust and 100k I would still say change but at 150 there's more risk.
Blocked PCV leads to leaks, my FJ Cruiser uses the same engine and I use PAO group IV synthetic 5W-40 here in tropics. It's changed every 6000km or six months, whatever comes first. I also use an oil catch can that I need to drain every year, so far, the residue from blowby is quite low. As usual I look forward to your show and thoroughly enjoy every one of them.
Amen, brother! For some brands like Nissan and their Renault-designed engines, I recommend checking the PCV at 30,000 miles and changing it no matter what at 60,000 miles.
With Toyota, I generally think that changing it at the same time as the plugs is probably a good idea unless that particular engine has a reputation for burning oil. Since those are all old engines that have the oil-burning reputation, it's not very widespread.
The 1gr engine doesn't need a catch can its not high pressure/output engine
catch a good amount of gunk at the end of the year on my engine.
@@RoyFJ65 how much is a Good amount?
@@chanoleyva8584 my yearly driving is under 30k and my can is bit more than half full by then, this with group IV PAO synthetic oil. There is large discussion at Tacoma forum as well as Aussie FJ Cruiser and HiLux forum regarding this.
Thanks. I changed from 0w20 to 0w30 in my Subaru outback. I change oil every 7000 kms
Emissions and CAFE requirements are driving manufacturers to cut emissions any way they can. This is the number one consideration today. The new Tacoma will come with a 2.4L turbo to cut emissions in half from the current 3.5L V6. Lighter viscosity engine oil helps to reduce emissions as well.
I fully agree with 5k engine oil changes. Been doing that on my brand new 2020 Tacoma since day one. I plan to keep it a long time as I do with all my vehicles. If you change vehicles often do the minimum maintenance required, sell and move on.
Alway interesting to see people who pay $30K+ for a vehicle and cheap out on oil changes. A change at a service station is $80-$90 and you can do it yourself for $40-$50. I do it every 5K miles
I always find it interesting that people spend all that money on a car then use 2nd or 3rd rate oil and 2nd or 3rd rate oil filters.
on my two Dodge Caravan 3.3 iron block engines I 'always changed the oil every 3,000 Km.
I don't do in-the-snow oil changes anymore ( getting too old for that) so timing that last fall oil change & the spring one is tricky. Usually, we get 1 or 2 mild days up here in Canada in January so it isn't a choir.
350,000 on the 93 engine & so far 292,500 km on my 07 engine. No leaks/ no oil consumption.
Do it yourself and shop around for oil filter sales and oil sales. Then you know it is done right.
I have and still, use Wally-Mart oil 90% of those oil changes spanning 34 years so far. Getting a new 2023 Corolla Cross in 1.5 months. And no, I will not be doing 10,000 Km nor 0w-16 oil, but rather 0w-20 oil top-grade Castrol oil. We shall see.
I find it interesting that people actually trust manufacturer recommendations. I use 5k mileage oil, but still change it at 3k. The same goes with transmission oil; even with light driving, the transmission oil NEVER lasts the prescribed amount of miles. When your oil starts looking dirty, let it go a little longer and then change it. Preventative maintenance is cheaper than buying another set of wheels.
@@deplorablelibertarian Manufacturers recommended oil change intervals are to keep the customer happy not the machine.
Petr, When the 0W-8 oil gets here in a year or two, we will fondly look back on the good old days of commonsense 0W-16 😉😉
0W-8 is here right now - it's the factory fill in the non-turbo Toyota Crown 2.5 liter 4 cylinder
@@4af Thanks for the tip which means we can become nostalgic for 0W-16 immediately.
Well done and explained vid, thanks for posting this. I completely agree the long intervals I first noticed a decade or so ago here in the NY Metro area. A lot of the higher end manufacturers like BMW were promoting included maintenance in their lease promos. I believe annual or every 12-15,000 miles. Many of these engines were down a quart or two of oil before owners were changing their oil following these "marketing department" recommendations. I'm sure this practice damaged/destroyed many engines. Additionally many vehicle owning consumers remain misinformed.
I own a 2007 1GRFE Toyota Hilux. 5W30 does it perfect and is stated as the correct oil in the manual and printed on the oil filler lid. Many people here in Western Australia also use 5W40. I change my oil every 5000kms, as it gets very hot here in summer (40°+) and these engines need clean oil.
True mate
2009 Toyota Tacoma owner here. My Tacoma has the 1GR-FE engine and the A750 Transmission. The oil filler cap on the engine, and the owners manual in the truck states 5W30 is the correct oil. Do NOT use 0W20! And change the oil AT MAX every 5K miles (or less).
@@oday3514 100% correct!
5w 30 is only on the 4th gen but the 5th gen 4Runner is required 0w20 or 5w20
@@oday3514 my 2009 says 5w30. I'm not sure which year toyota switched over to 0w20, but my impression was for better gas mileage and efficiency numbers.
Not here to argue. Owned 2006 4.0. Oil fil cap specified 5/30 with Mobil factory fill. I logged 185,000 miles over 14 years changing the oil every 5k as specified by Toyota maintenance schedule. Mobill 1 synthetic. The engine ran like new when I sold the truck.
The long intervals were introduced in the United States as a direct result of the EPA's overall requirements to decrease dependence on petroleum products. As with all pie-in-the-sky type of edicts from a non-elected authority, the unintended consequences have been that there are more engines burning oil much earlier in their lives because of those long intervals. In addition, more cars get trashed and ultimately junked when the engines fail tens, if not hundreds of thousands of miles earlier than if they were maintained properly. Sure, the marketing department will try to make it sound all great, but they're just putting whipped cream on a turd pie.
Another thing people stretch out too long or don't do it all are the transmission fluid (60k), differential and transfer case fluids (30k). If you tow something, you have change all those fluids earlier, even the oil in most cases.
Now that I have 175k miles on my Yaris I switched to high mileage synthetic and I am pleased with results
I change mine after every 3000km (not mile) (my daily driver car is 1.3 L 2003 Toyota Vitz with 2SZ Engine). I live in Africa (Dar Es Salaam-Tanzania) where is always hot (32c plus, so i usually use 10W-40 fully synthetic oil), now the car has 300,000km on clock, I opened the top engine cover to replace the gasket rubber and found the engine top still looking like new, no black oil deposits glued on camshafts nor surfaces of top cover. also, regardless of all these kilometers on engine and transmission (CVT transmission) the car has no oil burning issues and runs perfect, and I have never had any issue that let me stranded even though I have been using the same car to go for long trips (Ie covering 1,200Km in one day)
I have a 1zz-fe with 340,000 miles on it using Amsoil 5w-30, changing it every 10-11,000 miles, and it does us a drop. Just changed the valve cover gasket because it was starting to leak, and that is the 1st time the engine has ever been open. I'm figuring it will go another 300,000 or more. One of these days, I might do the timing chain.
You nailed it @ 14:51, with Toyota, it's all about the gas mileage. They don't care if your engine wears out.
Can I trust a company that's telling me to change my oil at 15,000km? Thank god I know better. :)
In my 2015 Hiace van owners manual, they list four motor oils I can use in my 2TR-FE engine.
They list 0w-20 at the top being the best for fuel economy, next is 5w-20, 5w-30 and last is 10w-30.
What Toyota doesn't emphasize which is equally important is, to pick the oil based on the climate where you live.
This summer in this hot climate my engine's getting 5w-30. At the end of November I will change to 0W-30 for the winter time and year round from that point. The oil is changed every 6 months which is the more important factor.
Max engine protection is my goal, not fuel economy.
It’s perfectly fine to use thicker oil in the 4.0. The variable timing does not care. The only reason 20 weight and 16 weight exist is because the government is constantly holding a knife to the auto manufacturers throats to squeeze every microscopic drop of extra fuel economy out of all the engines.
It will be interesting to see if the engines last as long with that new super thin oil as they did with the slightly thicker oil used for the last 15, or so years. A thinner film of oil will remain on parts like the camshaft during the first second or two seconds after start up. For vehicles not driven every day, I could see a slight increase in wear. We will know in a few more years.
Well said!
Million-mile tundra with the 5.7 runs on 0w20 oil. The oil weight is not the issue for vehicle longevity. Maintenance is key to any healthy engine.
@@tundras4ever552 The quality of oil and filter is the key.
If the engine is engineered for a thin grade of oil, it shouldn't make a difference. Thin oil flows faster - I imagine thin oil flows faster between bearings, carrying away heat more efficiently. No matter the grade, all oil flows down in the pan - if an oil were so thick like glue as to stick to components with the engine off, I'd be more concerned.
Oil viscosity specifications have been reduced by the engine manufacturers for years. 10W30 or 10W40 used to be commonly specified. Now, 5W30, 5W20, and even 0W20 are common. Changing your oil every 3000-5000 miles is the key.
Mobil1 is not what it used to be. If you really want to go 10K between oil changes use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic. If you want to go longer use the more expensive Amsoil. Those are the only two I trust to last that long without breaking down to the point your engine may be damaged.
Have you watched the Project Farm channel with the "Super Bowl" oil final competition, with Amsoil edging out P.U.P., but my budget only permits P.U.P.?
Mobile one might good oil but I don't know why I don't like it. More noise from compare to other entry lvl cheap group 3 oil.
@@02markcal I think amsoil did win the project farm test but the pup was a very close second around me amsoil is about $16 a qt and pup is around $14 a qt, sometimes you can get lucky and catch it for $7 though
@@thetechlibrarian Believe it or not I just looked up what I paid per quart for PUP and after the $12.50 rebate per 5-quart jug, it came to $2.49 per quart, so make sure to check Pennzoil rebates before purchasing their oil. To qualify I had to buy 2-5 quart jugs and then after submitting the rebate, I was sent a $25 gift card, so I got 10 quarts at $2.49 per quart for PUP.
@@02markcal yeah that’s a good deal for sure. A definite no brainer at that price, I was even happy to pay 7 a qt then another 12 or so for a trd filter and I’m still coming in cheaper than most places and using a way better product,I actually just did mine the other day, I took it to 7900k this time and the oil still looked really good and as recently as December I had about 6500k on it and it was very golden still, I used to go to the dealer before they raised there prices $25.00 and there oil was looking pretty rough at 5k
We took our 2022 Rav4 Hybrid for it's first free 6 month/5,000 mile check and the dealer says that no oil change until 10,000 miles but we can elect to do the 2nd check (10,000 mile) service which includes tire rotation and oil change. When we picked it up the invoice says 0W-20 oil, not the recommended 0W-16 as in the owner's manual. I'm thinking of just using 0W-20 instead from now on.
always go with what it says in the owners Manuel.
Your situation is very similar to my wife's interaction with our local Toyota Dealership with her 2022 Toyota Corolla, I was very surprised that the first appointment did not include the oil change. To my wife's annoyance I strongly urged her to insist on the oil change when she went back to re-torque her tires. My next action item is to re-check her oil change to verify the oil grade and weight and triple-check her Owner's manual. She reached ~7,500 KMs and while it's not 8,000KMs which is close enough for me to deem an oil change for her city commute.
So the 10,000KM Oil change is factory-outlined, this explains my Dealership's information "that the policy has changed" for scheduled maintenance. I will opt to old practice and just change the oil every 8,000KMs.
Do it 5k miles 10k miles is a scam
Also tires should be rotated no later then 7500 miles
Yes, I am going to 5000 miles between oil changes. With the newer engines, you run the risk of burning oil using the 10000 mile intervals for changing the oil.
09 Corolla here which engine start using 0w20. I try 5 w30 once I don't like engine response. Vvt are slow react. Next oil change I change back to 0w20 car is back to good response. It still use 1 quart for 3000 mile but it pretty normal for low tension ring I guess.
Says 5w-30 in my 2015 Tacoma owners manual and on the filler cap. Same 1GR engine.
beginning in 2016, the USA 4Runner scheduled maintenance guide called for 10,000 mile oil changes and the use of 0W-20 oil in the 1GR-FE V6: assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/omms-s/T-MMS-164Runner/pdf/2016_Toyota%204Runner_WMG_lr.pdf
Didn't 2015 Tacomas have the older 1GR with mechanical tappets and 5W30 oil?
My ‘05 1GR recommended oil is 5w30.
Sales will have mileage interval based on company liability, which is the maximum length of warranty.
If vehicle falls apart after warranty, then it is your problem.
😲🙃😲
On bob is the oil guy some people have posted from Toyota that the new Toyota crown will have 0w8 oil that is getting real thin
Any updates to your Scion TC? Are you still working on it?
Usually those side projects are done for content and then sold away or cheaply given to a college student in the area for a good price because they need to get around. He might be working on it if they take it to him for maintenance. But who knows. It hasn't been seen in a long while. No mention either. Like a ghost in the black forest.
There used to be $1 quarts at the dollar store. Those days are over.
Now it's the dollar twenty five tree
It's barely $1/quart at the junkyard
The tree-fiddy store
The last time I bought anything in the dollar store the dollar items went up to $1.25, so the name of the store should be changed to the dollar and a quarter store, to be accurate.
@@02markcal tree
Anxious to see the tear down!
Of the 10k is a gimmick to sell wouldn’t the thinner oil also be a gimmick to sell for fuel economy?
Thank you for the valuable info. The info. was presented in a clear concise easy to understand method.
Tom
My toyota states 0w-20 or 5w-20.
I change by 5000mi. Now i use 5w30 full syn.
good luck, hopefully you dont live were its cold , because it will turn into sludge
I fully agree with you Peter!
So you are claiming the engines are designed for the oil they suggest. Then why in 2013 did several car companies switch from 5w 30 to 0w20 overnight but only in the US because of new fuel economy regulations and tax credit? Do you really think the engines were redesigned overnight we just bought a 2024 Subaru Impreza. Same engine since the 80s but okay let's say it was designed for thiner flow then why does it suggest in this country 0w 16 but in Japan it recommends for best performance 0w 30. ? Are the engines different in different countries. If you buy a Ford F-150 here it will suggest 0w 20 but in many other countries options are up to 10w40 with the same engine. If it was not for the fuel economy push, tax credit and thicker oil recommended another countries I would easily believe the engine was designed for the specific oil recommended but that's not the case. I don't know what's true or not. I can tell you we took our Subaru home with 8miles miles on it, and changed out the oil 0w 30. The oil they recommend in Japan model and engine.
Wow listen to the CA rain!
So very few of us run a vehicle to the requirements of a 10K oil change interval that the OEM should never recommend it. Essentially very little idling, little city driving, and no country roads at low speeds. If you just drive straight freeway miles then 10K works well.
If your vehicle has an electric oil pump, then stick to the 0W-16 or whatever the manufacturer calls out for because it was designed and programmed with that viscosity in mind.
I got 18mpg out of the 4 litre, which i isn't that bad in my opinion. I'm about to start my own rebuild project on my 1gr in my 05 4runner
5w - 30 only all engines and years !!!!!
2019 Tacoma TRD & have run Schaeffer's oil 0W-20 since new. Changes about 6-8k but do a bit of off road travel. Schaeffer's will edge out Mobile1 & if you send in a sample they will even tell you how much life you have left in your oil.
10K oil changes risk engine damage regardless if oil analysis still says the oil is good. Sit through the video below to learn why. Oil analysis sounds scientific, but it doesn't tell the owner when gummy deposits are starting to accumulate on certain vital engine parts: ruclips.net/video/TJhFAwFv-O0/видео.html
My 1GR-FE 4.0L in my 2008 calls for 5w30 on the cap and in the manual.....so which is it? was the engine *designed* for 5w30 or 0w20? If they 'redesigned' the engine around a new oil viscosity, then why would it still be a 1GR-FE? Isn't the change to 0w20 by the factory an attempt at increasing fuel economy and ignores (or is in spite of) additional wear form the lower visc oil that what it was designed around (the 5w30 from 2002 till 2009). Or did the change from VVT-i to Dual VVT-i also change the oil weight? 0w20 was not used by toyota before 2009 as far as i can tell.....
Dual VVT-i uses 0W-20
1st generation 1GR uses 5W-30
My 2014 Taco calls for 5W-30 so that's what I used since day 1 of ownership. Follow the owner's manual.
My 2015 Tacoma 1GR also calls for 5W-30. I do believe he's mistaken on this one.
@@sonofliberty92 That truck uses the single variable valve timing engine. That engine called for 5W-30
@@austintalley4070 which is the same engine in the discussed comment and the same engine Petr is tearing down.
Using good quality full synthetic oil, and a good quality filter for 10K or 6 months is ok if the vast majority of your miles are highway miles. If you're mostly in stop and go traffic (like city driving), then you absolutely need to change your oil every 5K regardles of how good your oil and filter are.
@toyota maintenance where is your shop?
This was the first time that I heard of a bomb cyclone.
Liberal news media makes up things to scare people and distract
Out here in California, bomb cyclones are the bomb!
But isn’t what the multi grade oils are made for. So they will work in whatever temperatures the engine goes through in its day. From start up to stop and go in the city and or long haul highway driving.
Just asking.
where is your shop bud i would like to bring few of my Lexus and Toyota for maintenance. Thanks
Northern California, where are you?
@@LAactor Ah dang! I'm in LA. I thought about bringing my truck to you.
@@dominickmercado2284 it's not me it's Peter and remember there is appointment necessary. Probably only detailed inspection and maintenance jobs because if the one in a million chance happens some part is out of stock or supply chain makes poor quality the warranty will be six hours away. But you can call the shop if interested. It's one of the top rated shops in Humboldt County near the college.
There are several internal screens and small passages on the newer engines with VVT. I’ve seen those clog up from extended drains and improper oil weight. To meet the 5w20 oil spec and lighter the oil must be partially synthetic, 5w30 oil can be anything from basic conventional oil to full synthetic. I’m saying stick with the 5w20, 0w20 oils they meet the most modern standards. Why overthink things, the new low emission diesel engines run a 5w30 oil but it must be diesel rated 5w30.
My main thought is if running 10 to 15k oil changes you need high quality synthetic, the conventional oils start to sludge up at that many miles and start to clog things up. Most people think you can go 15k miles with any oil.
It's already been demostrated that synthetic is NOT capable of preventing gooey oil flow clogging deposits from gradually forming between 5,000 - 10,000 miles of use in late model Toyota engines that have low tension piston oil control rings and fine metal mesh VVti oil control valve filter screens: imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4035/R0xySv.jpg
@@4af 100% agreed.
The oil myth worshippers are still trying to convince me that 0w20 and 0w30 are "super-thin" oils, while most OEMs have gone to 0W16. The winter grade equivalent of zero is still 20 and 30 weight at operating temperature. 0w is just a cold start property which means it flows better on cold starts.
I have the same engine in my Land Cruiser Prado. I live in Guyana, averages about 32 degrees Celsius what oil would you recommend? Thank you for your input.
Hope you are staying warm and dry Pete. Avoid the Tonkotsu Ramen at costco in the six pack bowls. Not very tasty. Your usual plastic bowl ones are better. PLUS free inspection container for after!
My big question to the owner is what amount of oil is he burning which could indicate problems or if it's poor running. I'd like to hear about the engine cleaner too and which he uses.
Plus that 0W-16 is WAAY too thin. I would immediately go to 0W-20. As for the 1GR, he should go back for sure but depending on climate either 0W or 5W-20. Unless he's in Arizona or the desert.
Oil is cheap. I knew i was going to keep my 07 Tundra SR5 4x4. I change the oil every 3k. It had 287k, runs great.
It will run forever
Smart!
I have a question about oil capacity. The 2uzfe in my 2001 Sequoia has an oil capacity of 6.5 quarts. I’ve always heard that it’s better to be a little under the full mark than over it on the dipstick. When I change it I put in 6 qts so I don’t have to buy 7 and then waste half a quart. It sits right under the full mark on the dipstick. Is this okay long term?
Yes
The reason you don't want to overfill any crankcase is that the crank will be too far into the oil and churn a bunch of air into it. This can cause a loss of oil pressure and lack of flow because the pump is wasting energy compressing the air bubbles instead of just moving the oil.
@@SamSeth fascinating stuff
You can always buy your 7 qts and then put your half qt you have left over on your shelf capped and save it till your next oil change. That way every other oil change your are only buying 6 qts🤷♂. But you should be alright.
You’re ok. When you drain your oil not all of it comes out. My Prius takes 3.9 quarts I always put 3.5 when I change it and it’s at the full mark
I just drove 800 miles at full speed on about 1-2 quarts in my 2009 Prius.
Absolute tank
lol I have an 09 Prius also. When I first got it I did the same thing cause I didn’t know it was burning oil until the triangle light was coming on every time I would make a left turn. I checked the oil and it took 2.5 quarts to fill. Ever since I’ve been checking the oil every week
Great vid.
If you hve chance im trying to repair my 2008 tacoma 4*4 rugged trail accesscab
Im trying to track down inner and outer tie rods alot of parts places dont always give info for parts
Do you know what inner and outers will work by part number
Also want boots trying to save rack.
Some dealers are showing outer but inners are not saying they are for my version.
Thanks
Wheeler's or someone like that sells heavy duty ones...
I have an entire rack that was in a fender bender while on the road. It's now just sitting here and I can ship them to you If you need me to... nothing wrong with them at all.
Holler if you need me to send you the inner rod ends.
I have the front axle, along with all suspension parts complete and still on the frame like it came from the factory.
Good luck...
Use an anti-friction oil additive at every oil change .
The oil already has that your wasting money putting any additive in a modern engine oil
@@danielmeador1991 Absolutely agreed. LOL People will buy anything.
@@theaustralianconundrum that’s the sad thing too
@@danielmeador1991 I've met them all. They never think of regular oil and filter changes with a premium synthetic. LOL Madness.
@@theaustralianconundrum same it’s extremely sad too
Schaeffer Oil 🇺🇲🇺🇲👍
What I don’t understand is your logic in telling the owner he shouldn’t be trying to outsmart system/manufacturer etc., by switching from the recommended 0w-20 oil because obviously, they know what the design requires and THEN you tell him to ignore manufacturers recommended oil change intervals! Now either the maker knows what is required in both instances, or they don’t! This pick and choose business doesn’t add up. People can do whatever they like… if they want to change oil once a week go for it. If they never change it, fine by me. Engineers a whole lot more educated than I am designed these engines and they have determined what is proper maintenance schedules for long service. Just KISS and follow the instructions and everything will be fine.
Japans engineers advise owners to ignore the owners manual: ruclips.net/video/KdCTTCRVZxs/видео.html
He was talking about the GRADE of oil and not the change interval. Use the correct grade of oil but shorten the time/mileage between changes. Not contradictory at all. Toyota engines with low tension oil control rings burn oil for this very reason. Rings get clogged with carbon from dirty oil from long change intervals.
HPNY. 5K Oilchange even if it takes 1yr?.
5K or 6 months
@@4af I agree, I put less than 3000 miles but still change at the 6-month mark regardless of mileage.
Common sense people. Change your oil per the manufacturers recommendation, period! In my case, I change a little before the recommendation. Why not, like Peter said, it’s very easy to do, especially on this engine, on any engine! And you don’t have to buy the super expensive, overpriced boutique oils. Just change it often! And, IMHO, our government SHOULD be mandated fuel mileage regulations for the auto manufacturers! Carbon from the burning of fossil fuels has been killing the planet since the beginning of the industrial revolution! Electric vehicles aren’t the real answer either, maybe hydrogen fuel cell. Good video Pete! Stay dry!
🤣
Peter you knew this would blow up your comment section.😜
Just put the word 'oil' in the title and watch the view count explode.
95 F150 5.0 ltr shell rotella 5-40 synthetic change oil every 1000. miles 453000. miles original engine Denso oil filters
What is the truck used for that requires 1000-mile oil changes?
@@02markcal I bet he meant 10k but left out a zero.
@@jimb8842 You must to correct, 1000 miles was my first break-in change.
No ,I change my oil every one thousand miles, I own a Dodge Durango, 2 Ford f150, 95 ,96 Nissan qx4 Dodge B 250 van every one thousand miles ,...95 F 150 has 4530000 miles still sounds like new
👍👍💯💯
I overfilled my engine with oil by about 3 litres in my 1996 Camry V6 because I thought the engine had no oil as the disptick was clear. How do I know if I destroyed any seals in my engine?
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training all of them. . Lol
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training I ran the engine for 50 miles before I removed some oil. Is that ok? I think the leak was preexisting because my dipstick was clear when I overfilled the engine with oil.
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training right below the oil pan, it only leaks when the engine is running. It's a V6 engine.
@BullsEye Tactical Firearms Training Shit. Maybe that's why. I just had the valve cover gaskets replaced in 2019 while I was changing spark plugs to save on labor costs. I only traveled 50 miles after I overfilled the engine with oil, will that cause damage?
I change my 0w16 every 5k i use Toyota oem oil Mobil one valvolene don't hsve rc spec like Toyota wants. Plus im not saving more then 10$ i trust Toyota additives. My old camry i used cheapest oil money can buy over 300k transmission failed engine flawless
Oh no🤦♂️
I like your hat 🧢
Of course you can get by with 10k+ mile intervals, that's never been the real debate. As an analogy, you can drink and party until late at night then go to work the next day fine when you're 18 years old. You're made out of rubber and recover crazy fast. Try doing that same routine when you're 60+ years old. I think you catch my drift. If you care about getting the full potential out of your car, synthetic 5k miles or 6 months. Even more frequent if you want. I take the advice of engine builders and engineers, not random internet people and incentivized journalists.
A lot of variables. Type of driving, oil capacity, oil temp... Some Toyota's have oil coolers. Oil temp is one of the main causes of oil breakdown per engineers. Oil analysis is the only real way to know. Don't know why Toyota is one of the few that has not gone to maintenance/% minders like Honda and others. Computer takes into account temp, load , speed etc. based on testing over millions of miles backed up by oil analysis. Mercedes even goes beyond with an on vehicle type of oil analysis. Most with full syn can easily and safely go 7.5k or more. The 5k is the old Jiffy Lube 3k change.
I change my oil and filter at 3,000 Miles .
My old shop teacher told us " If You forget everything Ive ever taught You , Remember if you change your oil and filter often , Your motors will last a long time ".
Even though that was in the Old days before Synthetic oil , I still keep my oil changed .
In my 2006 Tacoma, the owner's manual states 10W-30 oil can be used but should be replaced with 5W-30 oil on the next oil change. I had about 3-5 quart jugs of 10W-30 left over from my previous truck, which I used during the summer months, so as not to waste the oil.
Or just put them up on Craigslist or the marketplace
10W-30 vs 5W-30 only matters during warmup - during operating temps they are identical and in a warm climate identical in general since it never freezes - same with 0w20 vs 5w20
Here is where I will argue with Peter that this engine is designed for multiple oil viscosities search the Mexico owners manual for that truck and other countries and we will see higher viscosity oil’s recommended. It’s the same exact engine. It only reason it’s 0W 20 in the USA is for CAFE.
Interesting. 2015 Tacoma owner. Central Canada. 5w30 on the cap and in the manual. Always used 5w30 synthetic in mine. About 6000 km intervals. 2015 4runner we also own does take 0w20. But that is next iteration of that 4.0 engine.
We use 0W-30 in our 2010 Tacoma in Ontario.
2015 Taco Ltd. 4.0. Central Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 with cold temps. Oil cap and manual says 5w30. Running Pennzoil platinum 5w30 synthetic. Oil change every 6 months or 8000 km. Also have a 2011 Venza 3.5 V6 .. cap says 5w-30 but 2012 calls for 0w20 with the same engine. Can’t figure that one out ? Follow what the engineers call for I guess 🤷♂️
@@miketennent9036 Every manufactured oil is slightly different. It is not like no matter what brand you buy that all the 0w20's will be the same. They vary. Also to note is that 0w16 vs 0w40 is basically false advertising. The "0" should correspond to a particular viscosity but it doesn't. If the numbers were true then the 0w16 would be same in cold as 0w40 but differ while hot. Conclusion: Read the actual specs. Cold viscosity in lighter oils is anywhere from 30-45 CentiStokes or Centipoise and hot from 7-9. Middle weights will go 50-70 (maybe even 80) cold and 11-13.5 when hot. Nobody uses heavier oils in engines anymore so no need to discuss that. The major variations are cold viscosity performance.
Play at 1.5x speed minimum
Yes but more than CA customers are obsessed with cost saving gas mileage
I have gone down the Rabbit hole of engine oil and engine oil viscosities when researching my 2021 Tundra. I believed that 0w20 is too thin of an oil and felt it needed 5w30 at the bare minimum. After much research i found nothing that proofs 0w20 negatively affecting the 3ur-fe but at the same time i found nothing proving that 5w30 negatively affects the 3ur-fe. Some countries run heavier oils because of harsh hot climates. some as high as 10w30. It has been seen that the same toyota engines manuals in different countries ask for different weights. This could be due to the CAFE/EPA standards here in the states wanting to squeeze more MPG. But at the same time ive seen people get 400-500k miles running the thin oils. so honestly WTF knows. Ill continue to run my 0w20 .
Ive got a 2020 Tundra TRD Pro and did a bunch or research and plan on sticking with the 0w-20. I live in AZ and it's a hot environment but there's so many trucks running up the miles with light weight oil. We'll see what happens.
I did tons of research also and I can say I am gonna stick to 0w20 oil in my 2021 Tundra. I talked to my mechanic who possessed tons of experience and he also stated I should stick to 0w20 as long as I drive in a normal race free manner staying within CA climate zone. The only thing he encouraged me was to changed every 3000 miles if I am planning to keep the car forever.
What do you think about Kirkland Costco oil??
I’ve used Mobil 1 full syn in all my Toyota cars never had an issue, I even use 10-40 oil in my track car( 1985 corolla) in 2018 pulled the engine apart because low compression, pushed that motor to the limit for 5 years of track driving / drifting sometimes over 90F weather.
When I pulled apart motor still ran fine, just low compression and all rod and main crank bearing were super clean , not much wear or no burn marks.
Ever since I use nothing but Mobil 1
Sae ow 16 is for cold starts
by the manual:
-hi mileage oil change is only allowed if you drive long distances by highway, with short drives / city driving ' towing or hauling, 5000 miles is maximum
-if foreign manuals allow thicker oils for your engine, your engine was designed for thicker oils, 0w20 or 0w16 or 0w8 is then only for CAFE standards (ie your gov "helping" you yet again), if foreign manuals state a thinner oil then your engine has the new style / positively disastrous low tension / useless oil rings in which case you re stuck with thinner oils and don t even think of extended mileage oil change intervals
I've never heard of any Toyota engine being prone to oil leaks. However, the ones made between the early 2000s and the mid-teens are prone to oil consumption (aka oil burning). Between those years, many manufacturers including Toyota experimented with reducing the oil ring pressure on the cylinder walls. This was supposed to increase MPG by reducing the resistance placed on the pistons as they move through the cylinders. Less resistance = less effort needed = less fuel consumption = greater MPG. At least, that's how it was supposed to work in theory. In practice though, it leaves more oil on the cylinder walls during the compression and firing strokes. This of course, means more oil gets burned. Unfortunately, the only permanent way to remedy this would be to replace the oil rings, which is totally not worth the cost. That's why manufacturers recommend thinner oil for these engines. Thinner oil flows better & leaves less residue in the cylinders. This is especially important with engines that have VVT. What you have to do between oil changes is check your oil level at least once a week and add oil as needed. That's really all you can do for this.
toyota v8s using thinner oils are prone to leaking, they were designed for thicker oils
I’ve seen so many new Toyotas leak oil and burn oil too
@@danielmeador1991 Were they maintained properly?
@@je19662008 yes oil
Changed every 3k miles
I don’t believe the leak theory. I have a 2021 4runner at 46k and a 2020 at 18k miles. Neither leak. 5k oil changes on both. Also I haven’t added oil to either between oil changes.
The person asking the question either mistakes the year of the truck or is confused about the recommended oil type. The 2015 has a 4.0 designed for 5w-30 (with 10w-30 possible as a non-consecutive use alternative)
I have an 06 taco with the 4.0 with almost 180k miles and use full synthetic high mileage 5w-30 at 5k mile intervals. It doesn’t leak or burn oil.
It gets traditional 5w-30 once a year when I have my mechanic do an oil change and and annual full inspection, then back the the synthetic.
I know it! I have 180k too on my tacoma and have always used 5w 30. Peter is cooked!
People often say, "Well I live in a hot area. I should use a thicker oil like 30w or 40w." The oil temps are controlled on these modern engines very well. The intercooler keeps the oil at a relatively stable temp so the viscosity is consistent. I would be comfortable using 5w-20 over 0w-20 in the summer simply because the 5w-20 is a less volatile oil, requires less viscosity modifiers to stretch that range. On the 0w-20, it has to bridge the 20 weight range, but the 5w-20 only needs to bridge a 15w range. And at reasonable temps of 0F or above, the difference in starting viscosity is negligible. That 0w will be far better at extreme cold. Most 5w-20 oils are more shear stable, due to less viscosity modifiers, and so will stay in grade longer than 0w-20s all else equal. 5w-30 has to be made to bridge a 25w range, and so compared to 0w-20, when you look at the oil spec sheets, you see a far less shear stable oil in the 5w-30s over 0w-20s.
All of this becomes basically pointless when you are talking about oil change intervals of 5k or less, so long as you are using a good quality 0w-20. Toyota does not *require* 0w-20. They simply recommend it. If you reference the owners manual on the newer vehicles, you will see what the exact oil requirements are. Toyota only mandates an ilsac gf-6a oil, which could be a 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30. What toyota says is that "for the best fuel economy you should use 0w-20."
It is intentionally ambiguous on the part of Toyota to "recommend" 0w-20, but not require it. I wish Toyota would be more clear in their wording.
In reality, as long as one's oil is matched to the climate appropriately, and oil change intervals are done properly, 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30 using a GF-6A oil will be more than adequate.
Gotta love all those seemingly smart people that take the time to send questions/issues and wait for magic answers.
Sorry buttercup, if you are the kind that cannot investigate and understand yourself, you shall then have no shame in paying $75 an hour for somebody that did bother to check, investigate and learn!!
I’m like “oh oh oh, is it my question???” Suspenseful 😂
Roy Roy
2 months ago
Blocked PCV leads to leaks,
Great video!! I'm lost in the 70s I have for last 52 years changed oil n filter every 3500 miles what I was taught. Have 2016 kia soul and just bought a 89 Toyota 4x4 3.0 engine 5speed not running but will eventually get it going. What brand and weight of oil would you suggest on the 3,0 engine with 235000 miles? Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
5-30 is factory for 3.0
Also factor in what he said about temperatures , if you have extreme cold winters under 30F thinner oil will be better off during cold months also vise versa for super hot summer months over 100F days thicker oil
@@volcom514 OK thanks guess just like I've always done lighter in winter heavier in summer.
@@mikerequa820Castro GTX conventional 10W30 or 10W40.
Do you change Toyota transmission fluid? i owned and saw many go 300k with orig fluid 20 years . What's your take
It depends for how long you plan to keep the truck. Usually 30K miles is the interval you should stick to when you deal with regular transmission. Do not listen to anybody and always keep you transmission fluid clean by servicing it every 30k miles and it will last for ages
You're the best!!! I look forward to every video!
Why does my 2015 tacoma manual call for 5w30 if you say it is designed for 0w20?
My manual says if the truck has the 4 cylinder engine use 0w20. It says if it has the 1grfe use 5w30 OR 10W30. SO WTF IS GOING ON? WHICH IS CORRECT?
I've never seen anything online saying to use 0w20 in a 1GR.
My 2023 4Runner manual says to use 0w-20, same 1GR motor as a 2015 Taco.Major change to the 1GR was in 2010. Can't see why Toyota would build two different versions of the 1GR for the 4Runner and the Tacoma. None of this seems to make sense.
@jeffsullivan3101 I've been running 10w-30 in mine for the last 100,000 miles & it seems to be working just fine. MPG sucks though... 13.5 mpg is the best I can get. Its a work truck though so its akway loaded down heavily.
My third generation (2003 - 2009) has this engine and a 'maintenance" indicator light will illuminate on the instrument panel every 4000 miles to tell that the engine oil needs to be changed! The light has to be manually reset by following a procedure written in the owners manual so you know how Toyota feels about it.
I forgot to include that my vehicle is a 4runner.
I’m on highway 90 percent of my drive for 62 miles each way to work and home. Also a 2021 4Runner, I do 5k oil changes with Redline 0W-20. Lots of zinc in it.
@@billthompson301 2003-09 4Runners are considered 4th generation.
Im confused that engine requires 5w-30. It even says so in the oil cap.
I switched to synthetic as soon as it came out after seeing the varnish from dino oil on the lifters in my Chevy small block V8.
New engine designs require clean oil. Mechanics
See sludge at 5000 ??
What are your thoughts on Mobil One Synthetic Oil?
Amazon basics fully synthetic
Love your calming tone and advice
Good advice Peter--have a great day.
Hello l have a problem
Thank you Peter. Work safe.
So good content 👌
Thank you Peter. Another good video.
Thanks great video
Hi, I'd like to know please your opinion on engine oil treatments, usually poured in with the engine oil, if these can really help to cleanup sludge or residue from dirty oil inside the engine. Toyota Highlander 2012, 2.7 I4 engine, 140k miles. Thank you for your great channel and advice.
Just change a high mileage type synthetic every 3000-5000 miles and the engine will stay extremely clean inside
@@4af Lifetime from new Full synthetic 5W30 in Australia for our 2013 Hyundai Premium i30 CRDi 1.6 turbo every 7,500KMs (5,000miles) @ 184,000 Km's (114,000miles) and it's providing 45mpg city and 65mpg highway and 6 speed auto and pulls like a freight train up most any incline at 70-80mph at 2,000 -2500rpm in 6th gear. Never kicks down thanks to the turbo diesel torque. Cheers.
My .02…had a 2008 Tacoma 1GR….358,665 miles on 5w30 in MN. Even down to -38F. All good. Black stone oil analysis gave excellent results.
I use 0W-30 in Ontario to make winter starts even easier.
@@rightlanehog3151 100% agreed.
Peter my daughter bought 2013 sienna with 150000 miles ....would it be wise to drain and refill the transmission oil.....?
I would not
What's the service history of the previous owners? Check if the dealer has any service records. Is it having shifting problems now? If you change it, save the old fluid in case you have problems. It's a partial drain and fill because a large amount of fluid is kept in the TC. If there's problems you can drain it again and fill back the old fluid to hopefully go back to before with a small amount of new fluid. Generally they're Aisin robust and 100k I would still say change but at 150 there's more risk.
yes. I've never seen a high mileage Aisin transmission start slipping after a drain and refill. They have always shifted better, not worse.
Definitely replace it then you know what the old fluid looks like and have a start point for maintenance.