Had a similar issue with an old P38. I made a stand out of some sizeable chunks of wood, supported the hub assembly and upright on it, threaded the half shaft nut back on and belted it with a sledge hammer. Worked a treat.
I've got a proper axel pusher tool that fixes on to the wheel studs and still couldn't get mine out of the rear when taking my rear diff out. I ended up doing the same as you and pulling the half shafts out of the diff along with rear hub assembly. Looking forward to the next video to see if you actually get it out! Great video as always Ray & Pat. Keep up the good work.
I was looking forward to this video, I have to do the same. Not sure if I want to now. I guess all that rust compliments to the Scottish weather. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the part 2.
This is literally what im going through right now. I made a tool with a 24mm Trapezoidal carbon steel lead screw with the holder bolted to the studs, then 3 blokes on a inch drive knuckle bar turning it. We snapped the 24mm shaft. So took it out like you have and thats were we're at now lol
@@RaymiesGarage shit, so it was beyond stuck then. Guess it’s the joys of living up here in Scotland and driving through salt for 4 months of the year.
I have had this issue on multiple car brands. To do the job on vehicle, I ended up welding up a frame which bolts on to the wheel studs and use a portapower to press on to the halfshaft. A Volvo XC90 nearly burst the seals on my 10ton ram before it finally let go with a massive bang.
You need one of those hydraulic pullers which also bolt to the studs. And blast the end of the shaft with a map gas blow torch whilst you crank down the hydraulic ram. I had a scaffold bar on mine to crank down the puller on an Evoque driveshaft. I think I blew the seals on the ram from doing it, but it did go eventually, but took waaay more force than you used in your vid.
I used a 230v electric concrete breaker with a blunted tip against the dimple in the centre of the shaft, worked a treat. These are an interference fit to begin with, then the corrosion makes it even tighter. Have you thought how you will pull it back in, as it won’t just slide in? JLR have a sleeved puller to draw it back through but I made my own - I drilled and tapped the centre of the shaft 6mm to a depth of 8mm then used a long HT cap head bolt and a flat plate to draw it up enough to get the nut started.
Had a similar issue with an old P38. I made a stand out of some sizeable chunks of wood, supported the hub assembly and upright on it, threaded the half shaft nut back on and belted it with a sledge hammer. Worked a treat.
I've got a proper axel pusher tool that fixes on to the wheel studs and still couldn't get mine out of the rear when taking my rear diff out. I ended up doing the same as you and pulling the half shafts out of the diff along with rear hub assembly. Looking forward to the next video to see if you actually get it out! Great video as always Ray & Pat. Keep up the good work.
I was thinking of changing the bearing on mine but I think I will take it somewhere after watching this!
I was looking forward to this video, I have to do the same. Not sure if I want to now. I guess all that rust compliments to the Scottish weather. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the part 2.
Waiting for part 2 with interest. Thanks
This is literally what im going through right now. I made a tool with a 24mm Trapezoidal carbon steel lead screw with the holder bolted to the studs, then 3 blokes on a inch drive knuckle bar turning it.
We snapped the 24mm shaft.
So took it out like you have and thats were we're at now lol
Air hammer is a handy tool for this sort of stuff Ray, I’m getting one for my compressor in the near future.
We tried the air hammer it didnt even look at it
@@RaymiesGarage shit, so it was beyond stuck then. Guess it’s the joys of living up here in Scotland and driving through salt for 4 months of the year.
Poor Apprentice Pat doesn’t half have to endure a lot of abuse! 🤣
Love the sound affects guys😷
lol
Proper slap with a sledge got mine out an last l322
we Tried that it didnt move
Yeah I've took l322 out with a sledge and got absolutely no where on a l405
I have had this issue on multiple car brands. To do the job on vehicle, I ended up welding up a frame which bolts on to the wheel studs and use a portapower to press on to the halfshaft. A Volvo XC90 nearly burst the seals on my 10ton ram before it finally let go with a massive bang.
You need one of those hydraulic pullers which also bolt to the studs. And blast the end of the shaft with a map gas blow torch whilst you crank down the hydraulic ram. I had a scaffold bar on mine to crank down the puller on an Evoque driveshaft. I think I blew the seals on the ram from doing it, but it did go eventually, but took waaay more force than you used in your vid.
I used a 230v electric concrete breaker with a blunted tip against the dimple in the centre of the shaft, worked a treat. These are an interference fit to begin with, then the corrosion makes it even tighter. Have you thought how you will pull it back in, as it won’t just slide in? JLR have a sleeved puller to draw it back through but I made my own - I drilled and tapped the centre of the shaft 6mm to a depth of 8mm then used a long HT cap head bolt and a flat plate to draw it up enough to get the nut started.
38:08 - mind the goods!!!!!
Am I the only one that was trying to smell the fart? 🤦♂️
👌👌❤️❤️🙏🙏🇬🇧