The camshaft broke the block so the piston met its pieces and the connecting rod finally made a hole inside of the cylinders. That's great that you cover such things!
You'd be surprised how many people don't know this! Read books and learn! I have been building engines for over 30 years and I still watched this vid. to see if I could learn something. Good job!
@k9forkids this video is from a complete DVD that is over 3 1/2 hours long. There is an entire chapter dealing with camshaft installation and lubrication that specifically details the application of Moly lube... If you read through any of our forums on our site or all of the comments here on YT, you'd see we've given the exact same advice concerning the cam break-in for flat tappet cams.
@bluefin907 In the lower left corner of this video you'll see a "60". This is chapter 60 of 61 total chapters of a DVD that is over 3 and a half hours long... There are two chapters concerning both the install of the distributor and the setting of the initial timing for the engine based on TDC for #1 cylinder. The Distributor and Spark Plug chapter is available here at RUclips on our BoxWrench channel
@Elmarbergs The advice here is specific to gasoline powered piston engines, but only the kinds of engines that have "flat tappet" lifters accompanying their camshaft. If you have a newer engine with roller lifters, the break-in is not needed. If you have a diesel engine, you would also want to check and find out if you have a flat tappet or roller lifter cam to see if you need a break-in for the lifters and camshaft lobes
When breaking in a flat tappet camshaft you are suppose to add an additive to the oil to break in the cam. Joe Gibbs makes a break in oil and to my opinion its the only oil to use to break in a cam or a new engine. I think they are the best oil out there. I've looked at there website and they have defiantly done there homework when it comes to oil. Its the only oil that will ever go in my truck.
Glad to hear you caught this vid in time... Only engines with roller lifters can be run in without a break-in period. The video above is a must for any and all camshafts with flat tappet lifters (lifters with flat bottoms) Also, you should add some break-in additive to your oil for extra good measure of protection during the first hours of the engines life.
@willythewave this is only a piece of a 3 hour long video... the exact advice you just mentioned is listed in the distributor install and ignition timing section of the 'Basic Engine Building' DVD that we offer. Those clips are also available here on RUclips...
Thanks for that comment... We spend a lot of time planning the 3 1/2 hours of video and voiceover for the complete DVD. It's great to hear someone payed attention to our efforts to not bore you with one voice only. Not that you can tell from this single clip but...obviously you've watched all or some of the complete 'Basic Engine Building' DVD. Thanks again for the comment !
Taking it easy for the first 500 miles of driving is good standard advice that does make sense. During that period the rings of the pistons will have a chance to "seat" in place and work themselves into a pattern of better upper sealing and lower lubrication. If the engine is stressed in the first 500 miles, it will be due for a rebuild much sooner than if it was babied for the first few hundred hours of it's life.
@shaikhdishgan1 You'll notice there are chapter and section numbers at the bottom of this video...This is a sample clip from a 3 1/2 hour DVD. There is a chapter that describes exactly what you're talking about. It's in the distributor installation chapter, which is also available as a sample here at YT.
@PITBULL35383 This is only a sample clip from a 3 hour DVD... we didn't mention the roller cam set-ups in this short sample video because just as you said, you don't have to do any break-in for a roller lifter arrangement. This educational video is intended to educate people with the types of engines that require special care or procedures. However, if you have only roller tip rockers matched to flat tappet lifters, you'll need to go through the break-in procedure.
@k9forkids The title of this sample video is "Camshaft Break-In" and does not mention any reference to the actual 'engine break-in' procedure needed to 'seat' the rings properly.... again, this video comes from a 3 1/2 hour DVD that has an incredible amount of engine building knowledge from disassembly all the way through final assembly and start-up. thanks for watching this short little sample clip...
It's rare to see roller tips on the valves were the cams would push them open. Usually there are "Bucket and Shim" type arrangements at the valve tips that take up slack between the valve tip and the overhead cam lobe. Some times they are hydraulic lash (quieter) and other times they are solid lash design (louder). In either case, the cam lobe is metal rubbing on metal of the shim in the bucket...would be a good idea to do a camshaft(s) break in during the first start-up after swapping cams.
@Mrphatbastard1 This short clip is part of a much larger 3 1/2 long DVD. In the 'Final Assembly' Section of the full length video, there is complete coverage of the pre-oiling process during the chapter on 'Distributor Installation'. You are correct, the oil system needs to be primed before start-up of a freshly rebuilt engine...all of the details of that process along the way of a complete engine rebuild are covered in great detail in our full length 'Basic Engine Building' video.
@shodanxx All flat tappet style lifers require a break-in to set the lobes of the camshaft and the flat bottoms of the lifters into a 'wear pattern'. The wear pattern will cause the lifter to spin as the lobe wipes across the lifter bottom during the valve opening events. The reason for a minimum of 2000 RPM is to aide in the oil splash that is caused by the crankshaft. There is not enough oil splash at 1000 RPM. Most important though, oil MUST have 'ZDDP' zinc additive for flat tappet cams
@motorwolrdpl This procedure is intended to "break-in" a flat tappet camshaft (flat bottomed lifters, not roller lifters). This has nothing to do with either engine break-in (piston rings) or a turbo unit.
I really love all of your videos! They're the best engine building videos i've ever seen. I am planning on buying one of your DVD's. I have always loved engines, but unfortunately I have not had access to any V8 engines and/or full-size car engines to work on. Thanks for the great information!
You probably dont care but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Brecken Briggs thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Thanks! I bought another video from you guys but it didnt have the cam break in bit... I knew most of it, but it's still helpful! The video I have is fantastic! You guys do a good job with it!
@BoxWrench At the time it was October in McMinville, Oregon when mine crack on a 93 ford van v8. It was at a gas station and probably about 40f outside.
If you know for sure that one of the lifters has already begun to wear away and tick uncontrollably, the cam and lifter set it shot and will need to be replaced. If the guy is only "worried" that a lifter "may or may not" wipe out over time because of the incorrect break-in, you may have some time on the engine.
@EricMorseRacing You may want to re-read the title of this video again and then watch and listen a bit closer... This is not "engine" break-in, this is "camshaft" break-in. This procedure comes directly as advice from all camshaft manufacturers of flat tappet camshafts to prevent pre-mature wipe out of a lifter bottom or cam lobe. The advice here does not say to leave the RPM alone. It suggests you to change RPM regularly but with a minimum RPM of 2000.
@mikefromspace well, there's "room temp" water from most hoses in most parts of the world for most of the year (water that is above at least 60 degrees F) but of course there is "cold" water that is lower than that temperature in many parts of the world... What part of the country do you live in...? Did you do the block fill-up during the winter with very cold water?
If you've rebuilt an engine and are planning on re-installing a camshaft that has flat tappet (flat bottomed, non-roller) lifters that was previously run in the engine... yes, you can skip the break-in procedure shown here. However, you must have re-installed the rockers and pushrods to their original positions as covered in the 'Disassembly' section of our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD. If you don't match the valve train parts back, there is a high risk of them failing during friction wear.
@rocketrobbyx3 Idle screw won't get the engine to 2000 RPM... if it does, there's a problem with your timing or another tuning issue that should be corrected
@jordfordable The RPMs need to be above 1500 as a minimum (2000 is better) because the pistons don't create enough 'oil splash' at lower RPMs. Without oil splash, after the break-in lubricant wipes off of Flat Tappet camshaft lobes, there will not be enough oiling to prevent the lobes from wearing in properly during the critcal first 20 minutes of engine run time.
Why do you not have to do a break in for a roller cam and lifters? I have a 91 Ford 302 H.O. and I plan on installing an E-303 cam from ford racing. It is a hydraulic roller... is that the same thing as "just" a roller? Also, what lifters would you reccomend for street driving/ VERY mild strip use? Thank you and great videos!
@mikefromspace Sounds like that should be the updated warning then... Don't put water into any engine unless it is near room temperature of 60 degrees F or higher, just to be safe...
what happens during break in of the valve ? is there some metallurgical explanation for this ? do the lobes get slightly forged or do the tappets get plastically deformed or the rocker arm tips gets ablated ? why doesn't this happen a 1000 rpm ? is this true of modern alloys used in newer parts ?
nice video, one thing to stress is getting the timing set when the dist. is installed and having filled the carb with fuel through the bowl vent . the enging should start right up.
I have a hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers. Fired my new engine and drove it like a bat outa hell! 1600 miles later, runs like a bat outa hell! The first 300 miles changed the oil.
@1112223333111 The nylon strap is called a 'zip tie'. All carburetors have a couple of screws meant for idle mixture (these should not be used to try an adjust idle speed) Carburetors also have an 'Idle Speed Screw'...this must be what you're referring to. An Idle Speed Screw is not a good method for bringing the break-in engine speed to 2000-2500 RPMs. It's called an "idle" speed screw for that reason...sometimes the speed screw cant' even raise the RPMs higher than 1500 RPM.
This is the right way to do it,and the reason is because the billet is only tempered at factory to a certain temper and not to the accual heat and load of an engine so all the molicules are not settled properly so buy breaking in the cam this way the molicules will move around and settle nicely and make it strong and durable and when you run a cam in this way you can accualy hear the engine change its Acoustic order and it makes it sound sweet out the pipe,excuse my grammar
That may be true for crate engines purchased from some mass engine building factories but when you build your engine yourself and install a flat tappet cam, you must break it in, otherwise you'll run a high risk of a lobe going bad...
If you place the #1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke then move the crankshaft to the proper timing mark (say 12 degrees BTDC), then turn the distributor to where the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap you will be within 1 or 2 degrees of time and you wont have to fool with advancing and retarding the timing for initial startup.
@xExRxIxCxKx no break-in procedure should be needed for overhead camshaft applications. The break-in is required for engines that have a flat tappet camshaft and flat bottomed lifters. These engines are usually a pushrod based design that has a single camshaft in the center of the block and pushrods that operate rocker arms above the cylinder heads.
I changed one cam on mine started it up ticking like hell drove for 30 min lost 4 rocker arms, drove it anyways, screwed them back on after 30 min then everything was good (rocker arms nuts was so tall it hit the rocker cover nothing fell in the engine) And with regular motor oil you use on new cars no sink, no lead, no whatever addative you are supposed to use.
i use to do somthing before this , before puting the dist in place i allwys use a drill to run the oil pump then put the dist in place and start for braking.i love 350 chevy.
If you have a roller cam there is no need to be worried about this break in procedure... it is only for flat tappet camshafts (non-roller lifters). When the distributor is being adjusted, the cap is bolted in place to the distributor body. The distributor itself is being slightly moved left and right. This changes the relation of the spark plug towers to the spinning rotor under the cap and effectively causes the timing to happen sooner or later (advanced or retarded respectively).
when breaking in new engines my dad told me he always drove whatever it was 500 miles in the city, nice sunday driving stuff, then take it on a long roadtrip...is there any proof that thats good, or is it just some wives tale of engines?
I bought the rebuilding a chevy small block book and dvd. Is there anyway i can buy just the camshaft breakin in segment separately and correct me if i am wrong but that is a chevy motor in there right? This is not in there and i would like to see this clip in its full length. Just wondering if i could buy this clip in an mp4 file separately if possible
No lies here, only experience. All 'Flat Tappet' camshafts must have a break-in period or they will be highly susceptible to early wear out. We've had it happen on a cam that was not broken in, this is not a myth at all among experienced mechanics. A Flat Tappet camshaft is a cam that has flat bottomed lifters. The cams you speak of that do not need break in are "Roller Lifter" camshafts. Most newer auto makers use roller lifters, American engines included. Flat Tappets are not bad cams...
Our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD can take you through the process of adjusting the valve lash at the rockers and the proper break-in procedure for you to continue with. If the tick returns, you'll likely have to swap the cam and lifters because one or more of the lobes and or lifter bottoms will have been damaged by not breaking in properly.
@gadejfan You'll get over that the more you work with engines and hear the terms for automotive tuning. Spark events that happen before Top Dead Center for a piston are called "advanced" timing. Spark events that happen after TDC for a piston are referred to as "retarded" timing...
No... Not quite. If the specified timing setting is, for example, 15deg BTDC at idle, and you set it at 10deg - you call it retarded spark timing. If you set it at 20deg, you called it advanced spark timing. The terms "retarded" and "advanced" are in reference to the specified timing setting. Spark timing before top dead center is just that - spark occurring BTDC. After top dead center is ATDC, or spark occurring after top dead center.
Is this only for american engines ? I never did this procedure and i also haven't had any problems with a camshaft. New cams in a suzuki gsx r engine , no problem , just with 10w40 semi synth oil. the cams you buy must be treathet for that. But maybee there is a procedure and maybee the camshaft last a bit longer if you let it run like you say in the video. rossi
Right on Big Omar, If you want a killer collection of all the stuff for your ride, check out our site...we have a couple combos that you can customize. You can grab the 3 DVD combo and choose the TH350 transmission, and a Holley carb DVD or Engine Management book (depending on what your induction is) but is you already have the 'BEB' DVD, you can mix and match as well...
Run the engine to warm temp then set them again. Mark your rocker nuts and you will find that they dont change much. This should be done though because most people dont pump their lifters when they install them. Solid lifters are a different bird. You will be adjusting them once a week.
Dont forget to pull the dist. and go 1 tooth back/forward, sometime 180 deg. if you timed it on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke, no.1 cylinder
@BoxWrench you should be more specific, Any Flat Tappet Cam needs to be broke in properly with plenty of Moly lube and Zinc in the Oil, Roller Cams Does Not, It doesn't matter if the Cam is in the Center with pushrods or Overhead Cam setup
@mikefromspace ummm, no. that's a complete wives tale. The water that was already circulating in the block and bottom of a half filled radiator begins to heat immediately upon engine start up. There are by-pass passages in almost all cooling system designs that keep water circulating during engine start up, and the water from even a hose is not any colder than about 60 degrees or so... no risk of cracking either a cast iron or aluminum water pump in these scenarios.
@koopooda You can get this DVD and all of our other products shipped world wide. Come check out everything we have to offer in the 'Products' section of our website.
Any chance or anything in the pipeline to do something like a nissan rb26 engine rebuild guide....love the tutorials but in britain there arent many american made muscle ;o)
@1112223333111 We have a specific video here at RUclips that explains the proper method to set the engine at TDC for #1 that will ensure that the distributor is not installed 180 degrees out. Just go to our BoxWrench channel or search for 'BoxWrench distributor install'
Newly assembled camshaft breakage is quite a problem!We had a bad expirience on 350 small block with Weiand blower, all was new, they guy who assembled the engine was running it all the day before we came to visit him... (I don't know that RPMs, but idle probably, so that was the case!)... and finally.. that happened! /watch?v=BEWQtVoOX6I
The terms throw a lot of people off... "Advanced" means the spark event happens before the top dead center position of the cylinder that is about to fire and "Retarded" means the spark event is slightly 'delayed' just after the top dead center of the piston that is supposed to fire. It sounds weird to many people to say the word 'retarded' but that's been the term for over a hundred years of internal combustion engines
Thank you for your explanation. I know what a flat tappet or a roller camshaft is. The problem with american flat tappet camshafts is the hardened. It`s not strong enough and is not the same in some segments of the camshaft. That´s the reason why the lobes get flat even doing the break - in... Poor quality
Nope, doing the engine break-in at 2500 to 3000 RPM would create plenty of oil pressure and piston wall splash oiling for an excellent first run of any flat tappet (non-roller) camshaft. The potential problems arise when there isn't enough oil pressure and oil splash at RPMs lower than 1500 for the critical first twenty minutes of engine run time.
And that would be incorrect on a holley. The venturi bottoms have a transfer slot and should have .020-.040 transfer slot exposed. This means that the idle should be set with the secondarys. Trouble is, that transfer slot should be the same measurements as the front. Incorrect adjustment means the wrong metering. So when they are both measured and adjusted, if you cant get the correct idle, you start drilling a .080 hole in the outboard side of each Butterfly. Still too low of an idle? Start drilling in steps larger. Of course you have to check timing and vacuum leaks first. Next, put a vacuum guage on the motor in gear and idling. What ever reading you get (example 15 lbs.) divide that number by 2. Half of 15 is 7.5 so you need a 7.5 power valve in your meterinh block. When you set the idle air adjustments, leave the vavuum guage on and adjust them to achieve the highest vacuum. You can also buy different plastic cams on your accelerator pump linkage for different intensity timing on your pump.
This is funny, I think I used a screw driver to jam up the TB cable pully to get it to stay above 2000. I never saw someone use a twisty... I have to remember that one.
Never heard that one before, and have done many rebuilds. I only flattened 1 lobe before, and that was on a stuck lifter in a monte carlo 402, which stuck after many thousands of miles on its own. I know of NOBODY who ever followed this method.
Every camshaft manufacturer in the aftermarket business has this or a similar technique recommended for new 'flat tappet' camshaft break-in. You don't have to do this process for modern roller cams, but for old school flat tappet cams (hydraulic or solid lifters) it's highly recommended by every company that makes cams...go ahead, do a web search and see what you find out.
Your not going to break in an engine by having it Idling in your car, you gotta drive it because the engine needs to have a load. This is just good enough to break in your camshaft
Not exactly correct there!, in engine timing terms, lets say that the spec sheet for a certain engine says that the ignition timing should be say, 10 degrees btdc at 800 rpm, then if an engine was running at say 12 or 15 btdc then that would be known as " advanced" or "over-advanced", if it was running at say, 8 or 5 or even 2 degrees before top dead centre, u would say the ignition was "retarded" ie a bit later than it should occur. so, even tho spark occurs before tdc it can b called retarded
What the hell kind of unprofessional mechanic doesn't know the difference between the two states of ignition spark events that have been described as "advanced" and "retarded" timing since the birth of internal combustion engines...
this is big lie.. a good european or japanese camshaft doesn´t need a break in procedure..... the truth is american aftermarket cams are bad quality garbage
The camshaft broke the block so the piston met its pieces and the connecting rod finally made a hole inside of the cylinders.
That's great that you cover such things!
i'm so glad i saw this!
some "know-it-all" almost had me convinced that i didn't need to break in a cam...
great vid, 5 stars!
You'd be surprised how many people don't know this! Read books and learn! I have been building engines for over 30 years and I still watched this vid. to see if I could learn something. Good job!
@k9forkids this video is from a complete DVD that is over 3 1/2 hours long.
There is an entire chapter dealing with camshaft installation and lubrication that specifically details the application of Moly lube...
If you read through any of our forums on our site or all of the comments here on YT, you'd see we've given the exact same advice concerning the cam break-in for flat tappet cams.
@bluefin907 In the lower left corner of this video you'll see a "60". This is chapter 60 of 61 total chapters of a DVD that is over 3 and a half hours long...
There are two chapters concerning both the install of the distributor and the setting of the initial timing for the engine based on TDC for #1 cylinder.
The Distributor and Spark Plug chapter is available here at RUclips on our BoxWrench channel
@Elmarbergs The advice here is specific to gasoline powered piston engines, but only the kinds of engines that have "flat tappet" lifters accompanying their camshaft. If you have a newer engine with roller lifters, the break-in is not needed. If you have a diesel engine, you would also want to check and find out if you have a flat tappet or roller lifter cam to see if you need a break-in for the lifters and camshaft lobes
When breaking in a flat tappet camshaft you are suppose to add an additive to the oil to break in the cam. Joe Gibbs makes a break in oil and to my opinion its the only oil to use to break in a cam or a new engine. I think they are the best oil out there. I've looked at there website and they have defiantly done there homework when it comes to oil. Its the only oil that will ever go in my truck.
Glad to hear you caught this vid in time...
Only engines with roller lifters can be run in without a break-in period.
The video above is a must for any and all camshafts with flat tappet lifters (lifters with flat bottoms)
Also, you should add some break-in additive to your oil for extra good measure of protection during the first hours of the engines life.
@willythewave this is only a piece of a 3 hour long video...
the exact advice you just mentioned is listed in the distributor install and ignition timing section of the 'Basic Engine Building' DVD that we offer.
Those clips are also available here on RUclips...
Thanks for that comment...
We spend a lot of time planning the 3 1/2 hours of video and voiceover for the complete DVD.
It's great to hear someone payed attention to our efforts to not bore you with one voice only.
Not that you can tell from this single clip but...obviously you've watched all or some of the complete 'Basic Engine Building' DVD.
Thanks again for the comment !
Taking it easy for the first 500 miles of driving is good standard advice that does make sense.
During that period the rings of the pistons will have a chance to "seat" in place and work themselves into a pattern of better upper sealing and lower lubrication.
If the engine is stressed in the first 500 miles, it will be due for a rebuild much sooner than if it was babied for the first few hundred hours of it's life.
@shaikhdishgan1 You'll notice there are chapter and section numbers at the bottom of this video...This is a sample clip from a 3 1/2 hour DVD.
There is a chapter that describes exactly what you're talking about. It's in the distributor installation chapter, which is also available as a sample here at YT.
@PITBULL35383 This is only a sample clip from a 3 hour DVD... we didn't mention the roller cam set-ups in this short sample video because just as you said, you don't have to do any break-in for a roller lifter arrangement.
This educational video is intended to educate people with the types of engines that require special care or procedures.
However, if you have only roller tip rockers matched to flat tappet lifters, you'll need to go through the break-in procedure.
@k9forkids The title of this sample video is "Camshaft Break-In" and does not mention any reference to the actual 'engine break-in' procedure needed to 'seat' the rings properly....
again, this video comes from a 3 1/2 hour DVD that has an incredible amount of engine building knowledge from disassembly all the way through final assembly and start-up.
thanks for watching this short little sample clip...
It's rare to see roller tips on the valves were the cams would push them open. Usually there are "Bucket and Shim" type arrangements at the valve tips that take up slack between the valve tip and the overhead cam lobe.
Some times they are hydraulic lash (quieter) and other times they are solid lash design (louder).
In either case, the cam lobe is metal rubbing on metal of the shim in the bucket...would be a good idea to do a camshaft(s) break in during the first start-up after swapping cams.
@Mrphatbastard1
This short clip is part of a much larger 3 1/2 long DVD.
In the 'Final Assembly' Section of the full length video, there is complete coverage of the pre-oiling process during the chapter on 'Distributor Installation'.
You are correct, the oil system needs to be primed before start-up of a freshly rebuilt engine...all of the details of that process along the way of a complete engine rebuild are covered in great detail in our full length 'Basic Engine Building' video.
@shodanxx All flat tappet style lifers require a break-in to set the lobes of the camshaft and the flat bottoms of the lifters into a 'wear pattern'. The wear pattern will cause the lifter to spin as the lobe wipes across the lifter bottom during the valve opening events.
The reason for a minimum of 2000 RPM is to aide in the oil splash that is caused by the crankshaft. There is not enough oil splash at 1000 RPM.
Most important though, oil MUST have 'ZDDP' zinc additive for flat tappet cams
@motorwolrdpl
This procedure is intended to "break-in" a flat tappet camshaft (flat bottomed lifters, not roller lifters).
This has nothing to do with either engine break-in (piston rings) or a turbo unit.
I really love all of your videos! They're the best engine building videos i've ever seen. I am planning on buying one of your DVD's.
I have always loved engines, but unfortunately I have not had access to any V8 engines and/or full-size car engines to work on.
Thanks for the great information!
You probably dont care but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost my account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Kannon Braylon instablaster :)
@Brecken Briggs thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Brecken Briggs it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Kannon Braylon no problem :)
Thanks! I bought another video from you guys but it didnt have the cam break in bit... I knew most of it, but it's still helpful! The video I have is fantastic! You guys do a good job with it!
@BoxWrench At the time it was October in McMinville, Oregon when mine crack on a 93 ford van v8. It was at a gas station and probably about 40f outside.
If you know for sure that one of the lifters has already begun to wear away and tick uncontrollably, the cam and lifter set it shot and will need to be replaced.
If the guy is only "worried" that a lifter "may or may not" wipe out over time because of the incorrect break-in, you may have some time on the engine.
@EricMorseRacing
You may want to re-read the title of this video again and then watch and listen a bit closer...
This is not "engine" break-in, this is "camshaft" break-in.
This procedure comes directly as advice from all camshaft manufacturers of flat tappet camshafts to prevent pre-mature wipe out of a lifter bottom or cam lobe.
The advice here does not say to leave the RPM alone. It suggests you to change RPM regularly but with a minimum RPM of 2000.
@mikefromspace well, there's "room temp" water from most hoses in most parts of the world for most of the year (water that is above at least 60 degrees F) but of course there is "cold" water that is lower than that temperature in many parts of the world...
What part of the country do you live in...? Did you do the block fill-up during the winter with very cold water?
If you've rebuilt an engine and are planning on re-installing a camshaft that has flat tappet (flat bottomed, non-roller) lifters that was previously run in the engine...
yes, you can skip the break-in procedure shown here.
However, you must have re-installed the rockers and pushrods to their original positions as covered in the 'Disassembly' section of our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD.
If you don't match the valve train parts back, there is a high risk of them failing during friction wear.
@rocketrobbyx3 Idle screw won't get the engine to 2000 RPM... if it does, there's a problem with your timing or another tuning issue that should be corrected
@jordfordable
The RPMs need to be above 1500 as a minimum (2000 is better) because the pistons don't create enough 'oil splash' at lower RPMs. Without oil splash, after the break-in lubricant wipes off of Flat Tappet camshaft lobes, there will not be enough oiling to prevent the lobes from wearing in properly during the critcal first 20 minutes of engine run time.
@woocachan what kind of camshaft?
If it's a roller cam (with roller lifters) you won't need to do the break-in shown here.
Why do you not have to do a break in for a roller cam and lifters? I have a 91 Ford 302 H.O. and I plan on installing an E-303 cam from ford racing. It is a hydraulic roller... is that the same thing as "just" a roller? Also, what lifters would you reccomend for street driving/ VERY mild strip use? Thank you and great videos!
@mikefromspace Sounds like that should be the updated warning then...
Don't put water into any engine unless it is near room temperature of 60 degrees F or higher, just to be safe...
what happens during break in of the valve ?
is there some metallurgical explanation for this ? do the lobes get slightly forged or do the tappets get plastically deformed or the rocker arm tips gets ablated ?
why doesn't this happen a 1000 rpm ?
is this true of modern alloys used in newer parts ?
nice video, one thing to stress is getting the timing set when the dist. is installed and having filled the carb with fuel through the bowl vent . the enging should start right up.
pretty sure you don't, but I'll ask anyways- do you have to do this when you put in a new ROLLER cam, like a 5.0 ford mustang motor?
@BoxWrench I know because I cracked my water pump doing that once. Cold water will cause metal to change size and destroy seals as a result.
What about new flat tappet hydraulic lifters, but already broken in cam?
I have a hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers. Fired my new engine and drove it like a bat outa hell! 1600 miles later, runs like a bat outa hell! The first 300 miles changed the oil.
@1112223333111
The nylon strap is called a 'zip tie'.
All carburetors have a couple of screws meant for idle mixture (these should not be used to try an adjust idle speed) Carburetors also have an 'Idle Speed Screw'...this must be what you're referring to. An Idle Speed Screw is not a good method for bringing the break-in engine speed to 2000-2500 RPMs. It's called an "idle" speed screw for that reason...sometimes the speed screw cant' even raise the RPMs higher than 1500 RPM.
This is the right way to do it,and the reason is because the billet is only tempered at factory to a certain temper and not to the accual heat and load of an engine so all the molicules are not settled properly so buy breaking in the cam this way the molicules will move around and settle nicely and make it strong and durable and when you run a cam in this way you can accualy hear the engine change its Acoustic order and it makes it sound sweet out the pipe,excuse my grammar
Would you do the same procedure on an overhead cam design ?
That may be true for crate engines purchased from some mass engine building factories but when you build your engine yourself and install a flat tappet cam, you must break it in, otherwise you'll run a high risk of a lobe going bad...
If you place the #1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke then move the crankshaft to the proper timing mark (say 12 degrees BTDC), then turn the distributor to where the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap you will be within 1 or 2 degrees of time and you wont have to fool with advancing and retarding the timing for initial startup.
any recomendations?
i'm kind of a lead foot with a big block
can somebody help me. how important is it to have the thermostat? i heard it is just for the inside of the cab heater... please thanks...
How does higher reving avoid camshaft lobe flatening?
What is the actuall logic behined this theory?
@xExRxIxCxKx no break-in procedure should be needed for overhead camshaft applications.
The break-in is required for engines that have a flat tappet camshaft and flat bottomed lifters. These engines are usually a pushrod based design that has a single camshaft in the center of the block and pushrods that operate rocker arms above the cylinder heads.
I changed one cam on mine started it up ticking like hell drove for 30 min lost 4 rocker arms, drove it anyways, screwed them back on after 30 min then everything was good (rocker arms nuts was so tall it hit the rocker cover nothing fell in the engine) And with regular motor oil you use on new cars no sink, no lead, no whatever addative you are supposed to use.
i use to do somthing before this , before puting the dist in place i allwys use a drill to run the oil pump then put the dist in place and start for braking.i love 350 chevy.
If you have a roller cam there is no need to be worried about this break in procedure... it is only for flat tappet camshafts (non-roller lifters).
When the distributor is being adjusted, the cap is bolted in place to the distributor body. The distributor itself is being slightly moved left and right. This changes the relation of the spark plug towers to the spinning rotor under the cap and effectively causes the timing to happen sooner or later (advanced or retarded respectively).
isnt that what the idle screw is for?
is a break in needed for overhead cams?
when breaking in new engines my dad told me he always drove whatever it was 500 miles in the city, nice sunday driving stuff, then take it on a long roadtrip...is there any proof that thats good, or is it just some wives tale of engines?
I bought the rebuilding a chevy small block book and dvd. Is there anyway i can buy just the camshaft breakin in segment separately and correct me if i am wrong but that is a chevy motor in there right? This is not in there and i would like to see this clip in its full length. Just wondering if i could buy this clip in an mp4 file separately if possible
No lies here, only experience.
All 'Flat Tappet' camshafts must have a break-in period or they will be highly susceptible to early wear out. We've had it happen on a cam that was not broken in, this is not a myth at all among experienced mechanics.
A Flat Tappet camshaft is a cam that has flat bottomed lifters. The cams you speak of that do not need break in are "Roller Lifter" camshafts. Most newer auto makers use roller lifters, American engines included.
Flat Tappets are not bad cams...
Our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD can take you through the process of adjusting the valve lash at the rockers and the proper break-in procedure for you to continue with.
If the tick returns, you'll likely have to swap the cam and lifters because one or more of the lobes and or lifter bottoms will have been damaged by not breaking in properly.
@gadejfan You'll get over that the more you work with engines and hear the terms for automotive tuning. Spark events that happen before Top Dead Center for a piston are called "advanced" timing. Spark events that happen after TDC for a piston are referred to as "retarded" timing...
No... Not quite. If the specified timing setting is, for example, 15deg BTDC at idle, and you set it at 10deg - you call it retarded spark timing. If you set it at 20deg, you called it advanced spark timing. The terms "retarded" and "advanced" are in reference to the specified timing setting. Spark timing before top dead center is just that - spark occurring BTDC. After top dead center is ATDC, or spark occurring after top dead center.
Is this only for american engines ?
I never did this procedure and i also haven't had any problems with a camshaft.
New cams in a suzuki gsx r engine , no problem , just with 10w40 semi synth oil.
the cams you buy must be treathet for that.
But maybee there is a procedure and maybee the camshaft last a bit longer if you let it run like you say in the video.
rossi
Right on Big Omar,
If you want a killer collection of all the stuff for your ride, check out our site...we have a couple combos that you can customize.
You can grab the 3 DVD combo and choose the TH350 transmission, and a Holley carb DVD or Engine Management book (depending on what your induction is) but is you already have the 'BEB' DVD, you can mix and match as well...
should you do another valve adjustment after the cam is broken in or will the initial one be fine
Run the engine to warm temp then set them again. Mark your rocker nuts and you will find that they dont change much. This should be done though because most people dont pump their lifters when they install them. Solid lifters are a different bird. You will be adjusting them once a week.
I own of couple of the Boxwrench DVD's and love em. Anyone trash talking them is a hack and needs a life.
thanks for all these videos! very nice, I think I'll buy the dvds
look the egr valve is connected to the carb no thermo switch
Dont forget to pull the dist. and go 1 tooth back/forward, sometime 180 deg. if you timed it on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke, no.1 cylinder
How do I get boxwrench video's lol I live in canada
@BoxWrench you should be more specific, Any Flat Tappet Cam needs to be broke in properly with plenty of Moly lube and Zinc in the Oil, Roller Cams Does Not, It doesn't matter if the Cam is in the Center with pushrods or Overhead Cam setup
HOW DO YOU ADJUST THAT ADVANCE BECAUSE I CAN'T FIND IT. LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT IT BY MAGIC!!!
@mikefromspace ummm, no. that's a complete wives tale. The water that was already circulating in the block and bottom of a half filled radiator begins to heat immediately upon engine start up. There are by-pass passages in almost all cooling system designs that keep water circulating during engine start up, and the water from even a hose is not any colder than about 60 degrees or so... no risk of cracking either a cast iron or aluminum water pump in these scenarios.
@koopooda
You can get this DVD and all of our other products shipped world wide. Come check out everything we have to offer in the 'Products' section of our website.
Any chance or anything in the pipeline to do something like a nissan rb26 engine rebuild guide....love the tutorials but in britain there arent many american made muscle ;o)
@1112223333111
We have a specific video here at RUclips that explains the proper method to set the engine at TDC for #1 that will ensure that the distributor is not installed 180 degrees out.
Just go to our BoxWrench channel or search for 'BoxWrench distributor install'
Newly assembled camshaft breakage is quite a problem!We had a bad expirience on 350 small block with Weiand blower, all was new, they guy who assembled the engine was running it all the day before we came to visit him... (I don't know that RPMs, but idle probably, so that was the case!)... and finally.. that happened!
/watch?v=BEWQtVoOX6I
whats nice about a roller cam is you dont have to break in the cam :)
Camshafts in American V-8 engines are PRESSURE-lubricated, so oil "splash" is completely irrelevant.
The terms throw a lot of people off...
"Advanced" means the spark event happens before the top dead center position of the cylinder that is about to fire and "Retarded" means the spark event is slightly 'delayed' just after the top dead center of the piston that is supposed to fire.
It sounds weird to many people to say the word 'retarded' but that's been the term for over a hundred years of internal combustion engines
Thank you for your explanation. I know what a flat tappet or a roller camshaft is. The problem with american flat tappet camshafts is the hardened. It`s not strong enough and is not the same in some segments of the camshaft. That´s the reason why the lobes get flat even doing the break - in... Poor quality
Nope, doing the engine break-in at 2500 to 3000 RPM would create plenty of oil pressure and piston wall splash oiling for an excellent first run of any flat tappet (non-roller) camshaft.
The potential problems arise when there isn't enough oil pressure and oil splash at RPMs lower than 1500 for the critical first twenty minutes of engine run time.
@BoxWrench What about diesels?
Make sure you have the correct heat range on your spark plugs and gap them @ .045
D Rutt 1969 LMAO. yeah getting the right spark plugs is VERY important for diesels.
to keep idle up i just turn the idle screw...
And that would be incorrect on a holley. The venturi bottoms have a transfer slot and should have .020-.040 transfer slot exposed. This means that the idle should be set with the secondarys. Trouble is, that transfer slot should be the same measurements as the front. Incorrect adjustment means the wrong metering. So when they are both measured and adjusted, if you cant get the correct idle, you start drilling a .080 hole in the outboard side of each Butterfly. Still too low of an idle? Start drilling in steps larger. Of course you have to check timing and vacuum leaks first. Next, put a vacuum guage on the motor in gear and idling. What ever reading you get (example 15 lbs.) divide that number by 2. Half of 15 is 7.5 so you need a 7.5 power valve in your meterinh block. When you set the idle air adjustments, leave the vavuum guage on and adjust them to achieve the highest vacuum. You can also buy different plastic cams on your accelerator pump linkage for different intensity timing on your pump.
@BoxWrench oh ok, see i learned somethin new today lol. Thanks
This is funny, I think I used a screw driver to jam up the TB cable pully to get it to stay above 2000. I never saw someone use a twisty... I have to remember that one.
Never heard that one before, and have done many rebuilds. I only flattened 1 lobe before, and that was on a stuck lifter in a monte carlo 402, which stuck after many thousands of miles on its own. I know of NOBODY who ever followed this method.
Every camshaft manufacturer in the aftermarket business has this or a similar technique recommended for new 'flat tappet' camshaft break-in.
You don't have to do this process for modern roller cams, but for old school flat tappet cams (hydraulic or solid lifters) it's highly recommended by every company that makes cams...go ahead, do a web search and see what you find out.
Ok then, now i know, im only 14 and still learning. Thanks
WTF is that zap strap on there?
It has a idle screw........
@cbr900rr919 thanks bro i will sure do that... ur helping me a lot with just a comment. thank u again...
Amen. It's the only way I can fix my cars.
Your not going to break in an engine by having it Idling in your car, you gotta drive it because the engine needs to have a load. This is just good enough to break in your camshaft
Ive never heard that, and i wasnt trying to be rude, but it just sound odd.
great help thanks!!!
@woocachan Absolutely
Not exactly correct there!, in engine timing terms, lets say that the spec sheet for a certain engine says that the ignition timing should be say, 10 degrees btdc at 800 rpm, then if an engine was running at say 12 or 15 btdc then that would be known as " advanced" or "over-advanced", if it was running at say, 8 or 5 or even 2 degrees before top dead centre, u would say the ignition was "retarded" ie a bit later than it should occur. so, even tho spark occurs before tdc it can b called retarded
ok thanks
Buy Rotella T
What?
This is all unnecessary on a roller cam. Engines with roller cams can be fired up, tuned and driven away.
what....he put cold water into a hot radiator? that will crack a water pump!!!
What the hell kind of unprofessional mechanic doesn't know the difference between the two states of ignition spark events that have been described as "advanced" and "retarded" timing since the birth of internal combustion engines...
Facepalm... hard!!
cuz kinda ina fucked up way your motor goes retared lol
@BowHunt1229 jaahahahaha
haha
this is big lie.. a good european or japanese camshaft doesn´t need a break in procedure..... the truth is american aftermarket cams are bad quality garbage