Been changing parts for 50 years. You are 100% right for mechanical parts. I do the same thing. One thing though, when it comes to electrical parts and sensors, After Market is risky..
I agree with this. I recently did an apremium auto spark plug set/kit for my Altima and had intermittent misfires within a month. Went oem, problem solved.
I'd also like to add that critical engine parts are also risky to go aftermarket. For example, he has the 4.7 L V8, which is an absolutely excellent engine, but I would only use Denso timing belt and water pump replacement parts. Denso is the OEM supplier to Toyota, so you don't have to go to the dealer and spend three times as much to get OEM quality parts. But, on the flip side, when it comes to replacing brake pads and rotors, or ball joints and tie rod ends or sway bar links as he mentions in the video for an entire knuckle assembly, quality aftermarket parts are just fine. I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with nearly 200,000 Mi on it. It needed struts all the way around, and it needed sway bar links and lower control arms on the front. If I had bought all OEM parts, the bill would have been three times what my car is worth at least. Instead, I got good quality KYB struts front and rear, and I got Moog sway bar links and lower control arms complete with ball joints and bushings already installed. So what if these aftermarket parts might only last 120,000 Mi of 197,000 MI? Hopefully, I'll have the good fortune to need to replace them again when they are finally worn out.
Aftermarket is the way to go. I did the same thing you did and went with mostly Moog parts. We can replace everything almost 5 times and not spend what Toyota charges.
Unfortunately, dealerships are the only way to get genuine parts, that's Toyota's terms. The pricing is essentially the same at every Toyota dealership in the country. There's one price Toyota will tell them to sell it at, and then any dealership can keep that price or go lower, but not higher.
@asadb1990 well I know but I mean go on the main Toyota parts website and they have one set MSRP, and usually it will be different at dealers but I don't think they're allowed to go over there MSRP that Toyota themselves set. Like a timing gear for my Camry is $347 from Toyota themselves and every dealer in a 500 mile radius of me either has it the same price or cheaper, it's different prices but never over the MSRP set but Toyota
My son owns a '03 G35. He needed new control arm bushings. Infinity quoted him $3500 because they dont replace bushings, they replace the entire control arm, and all 4 of his front control arms were $3500. We bought Energy Suspension bushings and for $150 and a 10 hour Saturday, we replaced everything needed to align the car properly. Also, as a mechanic myself, I am regularly finding out that OEM parts from the big 3 are total junk anyway, so you might as well save some money 'cause the parts arent going to last. The exception is parts that the computer can see, and then you are dealing with resistance that makes the computer unhappy on aftermarket parts, so we tend to spend more for oem. Jimmy, you made a sound financial decision... ignore the haters.
The Car Care Nut on RUclips definitely puts on all Toyota parts for his customers so I guess there is at least one person out there spending the big money on Toyota parts!
yes, but he also suggests shopping around for the lowest price. He specifically says to not go to the dealership to buy OEM parts as you can often find same OEM parts for less if you shop around
Jimmy, you made the right decision. I saw someone say the aftermarket parts will fail in 100,000 miles but the Toyota parts will last 200,000 miles. You paid 1/8 the price for aftermarket parts, so that means you can go 800,000 miles on the same price as the Toyota parts before you pay more than the Toyota parts. Nobody expects you will get that many miles out of that truck. Also, if that truck has about 260,000 miles on it now, plus it is already worn-out original Toyota parts and one aftermarket parts, that means the original Toyota parts didn't last 200,000 miles either.
Saying that they'll fail in "100,000 miles" as a reason to not buy them is hilarious when we're talking about TWENTY YEAR OLD cars😂 Are these people planning on driving their 20 year old cars for 300,000 more miles or something? Some people's kids man... lmao
@@RyTrapp0 Depends how much you drive, and how dangerous it is if the part fails, or is routinely going to be stressed beyond normal highway use. It is a calculation that everyone should make based on their own needs. For most people, the aftermarket part will be fine, unless it's something like an axle, where if the side that fits into the transmission makes a particularly poor fit, it may damage the transmission.
I'm the original owner of an 03 Toyota Sequoia. At 305k miles, I replaced most of the original suspension using only new OEM parts. My logic was to look at the vehicle's potential as opposed to its age and fmv. Since I have no intent to sell, I concluded that I could easily drive another 300k + miles on the vehicle. So, I preferred to pay upfront (and possibly saving money) as opposed to paying multiple times replacing parts on my way to 600k miles. I also have greater confidence in OEM parts and generally feel safer. Of course, at 21 years, a lot of OEM parts have been discontinued. So I have bought aftermarket parts.
From your point of view, I would absolutely agree! If bought new and lasted you 300k+ miles then buying new oem replacement parts has value to last and expect another 300k+ miles. Now if I bought a used vehicle than my thought process maybe different bc most people would only view the used car as only the value it was purchased at. But if I bought used vehicle with 200k+ miles, with the intent to keep FOR THE REST OF CARS LIFE, then buying OEM part would be a small investment to expect it lasting as long or longer bc it is a toyota!
What happens when you can't get the computer parts is where I see a problem developing for modern vehicles. An old carburetored points and distributor vehicle can last forever but can the ones with a dozen different computer control modules.
I have a 2001 Land Cruiser and it only gets Toyota parts. I purchase parts from Partsouq and Amayama. Serra Toyota out of Alabama has periodic parts sales where they offer 25% off their already discounted price plus free shipping and no tax. Don’t go to the dealership for parts! Love your channel.
I really doubt he didn’t know that. I believe he just wanted to use the dealer prices to make his point more strongly. The Online OEM prices are still out of his budget I guess. It is his car. He can use any thing he wants. For me, I only want to put the Toyota parts in my Lexus but I know some technicians did not. They may not even do the job correctly!
I was pleasantly surprised to find my local Lexus (Toyotas luxury brand) dealer offered 50% discounted prices for internet ordered parts with free UPS ground shipping. I saw the internet price and actually visited the dealer to get the part and was told the much lower price was for internet orders and the in-person purchased price would be 2x more. So I went home and ordered the part and UPS delivered it the next day. The price was much lower than any shown on Amazon and eBay for the OEM part and about the same price as an aftermarket non-OEM part. Moral of the story is to shop via the internet, including the dealerships, to find the low priced deals.
Absolutely love the content you are putting out! I too use aftermarket parts in a lot of cases and most of the time I am satisfied. We owned a 2013 toyota 4runner and the only time aftermarket bit me was on brakes and rotors. I replaced mine and had issues within 5K miles. It was not remedied until all were replaced with genuine toyota brakes and rotors. So that’s just my heads up to you. Keep up the great content....your hard work is not lost on us that know where you’re coming from.
I find this so interesting. I have had really good luck with aftermarket rotors and pads. They on the sort list of acceptable parts that are not oem for me. I did a rear oem brake job by the book and I have had more issues than with good quality after market rotors and pads.
I recently bought a 2005 Lexus GX470 with 138k miles for $8500. I had the same dilemma. Needed CV axles replaced and struts were shot. I did an air bag delete and went with KYB shocks and struts with a metal tech 4x4 rear spring kit. My axles were original but I bought aftermarket because of the price of remanned Toyota. I had the mechanic save the originals so I can reboot so when the aftermarket fails I can go back to original for cheaper. I couldn’t imagine spending a ton of money on the highest quality parts to only have the engine or transmission potentially go out on a 250k miles vehicle. Hopefully, I can get another 100k on most of the original parts before they need replaced.
KYB are the OEM for toyota they are good. Some one at some point installed them on my high mileage car and they are still trucking. If you are taking care of your toyota 250k is low, very low for my expectations when it comes to engines and transmissions.
Hi Jimmie, I love your videos and how passionate you are about keeping your vehicles in top notch running conditions. I just watched your latest 20+ minutes video on answering the "haters" comments. I can't understand why you let "others" rent space in your head. You don't owe explanations to anybody on this earth for your actions. People are going to react anything and everything we do. I'm an 80 yr old mechanic both auto and mechanical and I've been called all kinds of names both good and nasty, Nuff' said. Keep those great videos coming.
Who cares what others say? You do whats best for you and your financial situation. I just finnished the front end on my toyota sienna. I bought a cheep kit off Amazon with struts lower cotrol arms cv axels and all rod ends for $500. I can replace it 5 times for the price of toyotas parts.
My sentiments exactly. Do the same on my 06 Honda Odyssey. All the wheel bearings failed abt 150k. RockAuto for rears, but junkyard for fronts with spindle for $$200. It is a crime to subsidize the dealer. Not sure why dealers charge so much, but it appears the parts and service departments are the real money makers for the dealership. New cars do not make much profit when you consider the cost of floor planning for inventory. New cars do bring in the used cars where they make more profit than the new. Given the high cost of vehicles today it is amazing most of them do not go out of business. Not sure why dealers think they can inflate the prices and the stupid public will buy, buy, buy. Think America has reached the point where new is too expensive so we just keep the old ones running as long as possible.
@@Lloyd-z3q The insanely high price of new vehicles is the reason why I don't mind spending on OEM parts from respectable sellers, which is definitely not my local dealer. Also have to add to the fact that I am not exactly keen on getting new vehicles even if they were half the price. I am all with you on picking thru the junkyard for a diamond in the rough.
This makes me anxious. I even if was only 3 replacements to 1 I would probably go with oem. Though I think the discount you got does level it out a bit.
i did the same thing on my 04 4runner. I replaced the entire suspension except for the track bar for 800 bucks. front upper and lower control arms(bushing and balljoints) easier then pressing them out rear upper and lower arms and bushings inner and outer tie rods front and rear endlinks and sway bushings all after market all good
I thought this was going to be a Toyota bashing video at first, but within a couple of minutes I realized I had watched your videos before, including when you got this (I remember it being all dirty inside). A very well spoken, common sense presentation! I agree with everything you said here. I hope RUclips is still around and you're still doing videos in another 100,000-200,000 miles or so, so you can inform us about the wear or failure of any of these parts. By the way, in your calculations, I think you forgot to add the seals, unless I missed it, which would have put the cost over $4,000! You definitely made the most logical decision. 👍
Totally with you man, go OEM when it makes sense, or go aftermarket when it makes sense. Plus, they do that crap where they're forcing to replace good parts to get the few parts you actually need.
I’ve checked out some of the comments about using the Toyota OEM parts versus aftermarket. Cost is a huge factor but those of us in the automotive industry knew what happened with MOOG many many years ago. They placed cost over quality. I believe many of the comments were based on that reality. In addition, those of us that own Toyotas know they’re made for long term ownership based on quality and reliability, specifically 4Runners. I’ve seen an 04 4Runner approaching 300,000 miles (2nd owner) I’ve seen the rubber on those aftermarket (Mevotech) upper and lower bushing of those control arms crack and deteriorate within 2 year period of installation. The new owner is now wanting to the Toyota OE control arms. We just decided to purchase them directly from Japan and avoid the markup. We might pay a small US Customs fee (CBP), but we’re obtaining the original quality with an 50% savings. Amayama is a Japanese parts broker.
One thing is for sure that this 4Runner should be called "Argo", as it seems to beautifully display Theseus's Paradox. Great stuff, loved to watch and I think it says a lot about a person to say "this is where I am now and I can change my mind later"!
It is ok to use aftermarket parts, just buy good quality ones. For example KYB shock absorbers, TRW, ATE or akebono brakes, AISIN(used by Toyota)water pump or clutch and many many more. There are good parts available for Toyota other than OEM. And by the way i use prestone washer fluid not Toyota oem :D
Jimmy, I'm not sure how to say this as eloquently as it deserves to be said, but I believe your philosophy of auto repair is what most of us diy'ers of my generation call: "The old school American way of taking care of business!" It's one of the main reasons I follow your channel.
What a lot of people don't understand is that NONE of the big auto manufacturers make a lot of their own component parts. They are made to the manufacturers specifications, branded and packaged based on a contract from suppliers around the globe. Water pumps, shock absorbers, struts and axles, etc. What was done with this 4Runner was to use a very high quality aftermarket brand which is made by a global manufacturer of both aftermarket and OE parts. And you might be surprised that sometimes the exact same parts are available as "aftermarket" at a substantial savings over the OE parts. If you've watched OE parts lists you will often see "superseding" parts. These parts may come from a different contract, or different supplier, or have a product improvement, or a bunch of other reasons. I have also seen OE's supply replacement parts that are very obviously repackaged "aftermarket" brands that they buy in bulk to meet a price point in the market as vehicles age and their market value plummets and people refuse to pay $3,000 in repairs for a $5,000 vehicle. They sometimes even provide "value lines" in order to remain competitive with the aftermarket. I know for a fact that GM, Toyota and Honda have done this. So I suggest everyone do yourselves a favor and do your research before crying the blind faith religion that OE parts are ALWAYS the best. The reality is the market is extremely nuanced and you can sometimes improve the vehicle by using some aftermarket parts available at potentially cheaper cost to you vs OE "branded" parts. My $.02 and wishing everyone the nicest of days.
I've manufactured components for vehicles. Same factory, same components. The QC difference between say a Chrysler product and a high performance vehicle's quality testing on that one small part would blow your mind. Same part Same company though. One seller's gets dropped, it's in the box. The other in the trash. There are probably people with failed fuel pumps because of my hangovers back in the day.
Welcome to the kind and loving Toyota world! I can’t speak for your 4Runner, but in a first gen Tacoma….at the very least, the lower ball joints should be replaced w/ OEM. It’s a funky design and Moogs are known to fail catastrophically causing expensive damage. You also learn to get really good at shopping around at dealerships. You can almost always get parts cheaper online than over the phone from dealerships. And then there is 555, quality made Japanese parts….and aisin and denso OEM parts can often be found on rock auto…oh the learning curve is big, and the community is opinionated. welcome to the fam✊
For me and for the most part, I only buy Toyota parts that are electronic or electric in nature. If they’re a high dollar part, I might see what the scrapyard has.
Yep. Aftermarket parts that talk to the computer don't condition power (voltage/resistance) the way OEM parts do, so you end up doing all the work just to find the codes still pop. And with the shitty sourcing of parts sold by the dealer as "OEM," it's still a crap shoot. Good comment, sir.
Right there with you on OEM Toyota Parts. Make sense to to do a cost risk analysis when looking at a $3400 cost difference. You are thinking correctly especially when you know the parts you are putting on YOUR the vehicle.
Jimmy, i think you did a great job. Me personally, i would have gotten a salvage yard knuckle if available if you really wanted "oem". Im in that same boat you are with my 98 Chevy. 447,000 miles,im not going high dollar gm parts pllus some are discontinued anyway. Keep doing you! Love your content! Beautiful scenery behind you.
I am with you all the way sometimes even the dealer parts aren’t much better at times but good replacement aftermarket such as Dorman and moog are great choices keep up the great work
you don’t need to explain buddy. Sharing your experience is priceless to most DIY’ers. ** ‘04 4Runner SR5 4x4 - front axles: Cardone HD - wheel hub/bearing assembly: Detroit Axle so far, so good. 🤙🏽 I venture mainly on fire roads and moderately challenging off road trails.
You're spot on. My 2005 4Runner has had sway bar link ends that were aftermarket replacements with a lifetime warranty. The original ones lasted me for 200,000 + miles. The aftermarket ones have been replaced 4 times with 110,000 miles. Never again will I buy aftermarket parts. Toyota only from now on
You're totally right here, especially with small individual parts like the ball joints. If the car is 20 years old, just get the best aftermarket parts possible. Otherwise the car just becomes a money pit.
Hit the nail on the head! Totally agree. Without mentioning names on and from RUclips I know exactly who you are talking about. And the parts you were referring to before you even mentioned them. I was actually waiting for this video. 100% agree with ya. By the way, sweet 4Runner, I have a 3rd Gen. Best vehicles on earth.
Good video. For me, it all depends on what the part is and the year and mileage of the vehicle. I do, for the most part, buy genuine Toyota for my 2010 4runner. But in your case, I would have done what you did.
I totally agree with the route that you took on that vehicle. It’s really doesn’t make sense to spend almost as much on just a few front end parts as you pay for the entire vehicle. You’re going to have naysayers, but, you just keep doing what you’re doing and creating great content.
AC Delco sway bar links for my 13 year old Sienna lasted 3 months before they started clunking. Ended up going OE, and spending the time to replace them again. I value my time over money, even at double the price the OE is worth it for me.
The only thing that I would have maybe gone Toyota OEM on was the spindle. Either that or see if I could get a nice one at a junkyard (I know you talked about the latter in your videos) Few notes though. NSK or Koyo Seiko bearings are the Toyota OEM suppliers. Aisin is also Toyota OEM for when you have to do your timing belt and water pump again. KYB or Bilstein is Toyota OEM for struts and shocks. Lastly, Sankei-555 (through NAPA) was the Toyota OEM ball joint supplier, but they may have started sourcing parts from a third party manufacturer based on some posts on the forums. The most important thing is getting a ball joint with a metal instead of plastic ball and socket which the Sankei-555 ball joints used to be. You could also go with aftermarket parts that have limited lifetime warranties like Napa's premium line. You are 100% correct though based on your cost analysis. Even if the aftermarket parts fail 3X over your ownership, you are still ahead. Great videos!
I agree with your descisions. I prefer OEM, WHENEVER YOU CAN. But if you can economise and have a small home shop to swap out, you are GTG. Quantity over Quality has its wisdom as well.
Jimmy ,I have been watching your videos for a long time because you are a man after my own heart. in my a opinion you are 💯 spot on in your choices. I buy oem whenever possible. I have used Moog parts for most of my adult years and they have served me well. electrical parts are hard to find oem on alot of gm parts because of being discontinued. enjoyed your video!!
Hands down for me, you made the right move with the aftermarket parts. If you were looking at $500 aftermarket vs $800 factory, then I might go factory! Also I would take into consideration the age of the vehicle as well.
I totally agree with you sir. My daughter has a 1996 4Runner that needs front end parts as well and I don’t want to spend a fortune on an old vehicle like that. Thanks for your opinion.
We appreciate you and your videos. Don’t listen to the criticism. Installation accuracy is more important than oem parts AS LONG AS the quality of the part is good.
I agree with your sentiment, I regularly will purchase oem when I feel it's justified but it often depends on the vehicle I'm working on. I recently bought a rough 04 gx470 with 250k miles, love the vehicle, and fully intend to give it all the love it needs to stay on the road for years to come. I just rebuilt the front end with aftermarket parts. I only purchased the vehicle for 1100$ so I couldn't justify paying for oem.
I'm definitely on both sides of the video. With the Moog hub assemblies you could essentially change a failed one out five times for the price of the one and I would highly doubt they would fail that fast
Smart man! One thing I learned from the The Car Care Guy in one of his videos is that if you buy a so called "genuine Toyota part" on line and not at the dealer there is an excellent chance you are getting a counterfeit so if not buying a part from the dealer a high quality aftermarket part is better than taking a chance on a counterfeit. Although not a car this happened to me with my HP printer. I bought replacement HP ink from E Bay. The box looked exactly like and identical to the HP packaging but they were counterfeit as the printer detected they were counterfeit. Lots and lots of counterfeits out there in anything that is made, Come to think of it I have a genuine Rolex for sale. Interested? HA!!!!
I love your content and am particularly enjoying this project series; I have a 2011 Sienna with 205k miles. My goal is to see how far I can take it. For the most part, I choose to go OEM with visions of rolling 500k miles. I found that there are aggressively priced genuine parts online from authorized dealers; I print off their prices and go to the local dealers, and I have had incredible success with them matching or even beating the lowest prices online. I have saved thousands. When it hit 200K miles I started looking at wear items and am preemptively replacing them one by one. Also a huge fan of Rock Auto. I did use Rock for plugs and coils when I realized they had the same Denso parts with matching part numbers for a fraction of the price.
I have a very similar mindset with you. Owning 2001 Mitsubishi Montero I replaced front and rear bushings with shocks and all wheel bearing. Used aftermarket for 90% parts. For wheel bearing I’d recommend BCA cause they are part of NTN and NTN is Mitsubishi and Toyota parts supplier. For axles I’d try getting OEM from junk yard and rebooting. Lucky I didn’t need to change mine. I used polyurethane for bushings and pressed myself. Thank you for your videos! You are great! Good luck with this old girl.
Moog Isnt the Best aftermarket parts you can find And Rock Auto Isnt a Place to reference parts by brand or make nor does rock auto have anything to do with what brand has good or bad quality your spreading miss information jimmy 4:34 @1Road
These haters are looney tunes!! If they reach out to me I'll refer them to a good neurologist. Like you Jimmy, I bought for around $4,500 a 2001 Lexus ES300. It had 109K in mileage when I bought it - now has around 185K. Some maintenance needed, but nothing out of the ordinary. Shocks are all gone, Toyota NO LONGER SELLS SHOCKS TO THIS VEHICLE - but to get springs for aftermarket KYB struts would cost approx. $750/per spring. That's right , 3 K just for the springs. Then of course, my driver's side axle is slinging grease now, so once again for the haters who have no idea what they are talking about sugest OEM - but Toyota NO LONGER SELLS THE CV AXLES TO THIS vehicle. So Rock Auto is it for me, etc. I think you get the point, your after market items are a g-d send, as oem parts aren't even sold anymore. Further, economically, you can replace your cv axles every two years for the next 8 years AND still come out ahead. You made (as did I) the right choice.
I agree with this premise entirely. One thing that I’ll add is that dealer pricing is highly variable. Often their online prices are 20-50% cheaper than their in store prices. But the REAL scoop is getting a good relationship with your local parts guy. He has a LOT of control over the price they charge you.
We have an 06 Accord V6 had it since new. Honda charges stupid $$ for everything. The powersteering pump started leaking. Honda parts wanted $750.00 for the tiny little pump. I went to Napa and bought a new Napa pump for arond $200.00. That was a few years back and the pump works like a champ!
Welcome to the Toyota world! 1st gen tundra owner here . Absolutely nothing wrong with going aftermarket. For the amount of $ you spent . You can replace the parts again and again if they fail 👍
I've owned Toyotas for 25 years. I use aftermarket parts for the most part and I had never said to myself that I should've bought OEM parts. I have never had issues with good aftermarket parts.
In regards to the knuckle replacement you can still buy OEM Toyota. Look into a junkyard or you pull it etc. My wife's rav4 automatic tailgate motor went and brand new was 350. Went on a U-Pull-It junkyard site and got a good quality one still OEM for less than half
I totally agree with you 100%... I have a 04 GMC Sierra and I will only buy Original GM parts if it it's a life safety issue... Also, most aftermarket parts are guaranteed to exceed OEM Spces so that should be some consultation... IMHO
Just paid 3k for a 2004 GX470 with 257k miles. So far I’ve put in new CV boots, water pump, timing belt, both idler pulleys and a new radiator. Still have a lot to go and RockAuto is a money saver..
Jimmy I'm right there with you on this. The factory parts are rediculously priced and are not worth the expense. I had a 2003 Silverado that needed a new throttle body and gas pedal actuator. I tried aftermarket and it wouldn't run right and kept going into limp mode. I had to use GM parts because the PCM didn't like those aftermarket parts. Another example was when the braces from the frame to under carriage rusted out the dealer wanted $85 for each one! They were 22" long and 3/4" diameter, I bought a stick of 3/4" galvanized rigid conduit & made my own for $18. What they're too ignorant to understand is if they would offer their parts at a more reasonable price they would sell more and make more $$ in the long run.
The problem with the OEM crowd with any manufacturer is sometimes OEM parts are simply worse. I'll give a few examples. You need to buy parts to match your goals. Honda guys love Honda oil filters and often won't run anything else. The kicker is Honda filters are only 66% efficient at 20u. Many aftermarket filters are now 99% at 20u with nearly identical flow rates due to synthetic filter media. OEM isn't always better. There is often objective measures by which we can evaluate parts and choose the best option for our goals.
Its not all about filtration with oem oil filters, they are designed for your engine, thus they have bypass valves and flow characteristics for that oil pump and oil type. Most aftermarket filters valves are way off compared to oem. Its a small chance you will need the bypass valve to work an. Emergency however it could save your engine. Always research aftmarket parts and stay away from FRAM.
As I said in my comment on the previous video, if you think the truck is going to be still running in another 250k miles/20 years, then fitting parts that will probably last that long MIGHT make sense. But even then, with the price difference you found, it’s probably not justifiable. Even if you need to repeat the job twice over the next twenty years, you’re still ahead. I’m with you all the way. Ignore the naysayers.
For anyone here looking at replacing LCAs and UCAs on this platform and GX470, consider the Super Pro LCA set and Old Man Emu UCA set. The combination is about $1k. That’s significantly lower than Toyota OEM. They have been fantastic, no fuss, since installed in my GX 2 years ago.
05 Toyota Tacoma owner here with 209K miles. I do my own work. I buy aftermarket parts. when I first had it, I had a opps and blow out the seals in the steering rack (hit something). could only get factory rack. drove a year with no power steering as I wasn't going to pay the price they wanted for it. did the frame recall but the rear leaf springs they they put on it are crap. planning to do a 2" lift with new leaf springs to solve the problem. (need new shocks and struts anyway.
Never call a dealer for OEM parts, online wholesalers for Toyota parts are way cheaper, or find the parts made by denso, Aisin, Bilstein, 555 etc that were the manufacturers for the OEM parts. For those of us planning to keep our Toyotas around for 400k+ OEM parts @ 200k miles is worth it, most of the time, saves you having to replace that part a 2nd time lol.
I remember about eight years ago the AC Compressor for my Volvo went bad. Dealer, Volvo re manufactured AC compressor with a one year warranty and installation $1600. Autozone, re-manufactured compressor with a lifetime warranty, my local garage installed it for me, $640
I agree with you, get what you can with what you have! I have an 07 FJ and I will try and use OEM parts when it is feasible, but sometimes you have to go after market. My CV boots are a good example, driver side boot ripped and dumped grease everywhere. I had Toyota dealership install a new one. a few months later the passenger side started going, but because it was so much I had another shop do it for half the price. It really depends on what it is or how much it is. I prefer Toyota parts, but some aftermarket parts are necessary from a financial standpoint. I use Rock Auto and Toyota Parts Deal for a lot of my parts. I also try to check with other dealerships around the country to see if they have a sale on parts with free shipping (rare, but it happens). It is surprising to me if I order a part online from one of the two local dealerships it is cheaper than going straight to the dealerships. I would love to have all OEM parts, but sometimes I just can't do it. Like someone else said. sensors and electronics, got to go OEM and Hope not to get a fake in a Toyota box. I bought an MAF sensor to have an extra on hand, got it from Amazon, but it threw a code the moment after I installed it. I put the old one back on reset codes and nothing, lesson learned, I will pay the extra money and get it from the dealership or a genuine Toyota parts dealer. Keep doing what you are doing. Get YOUR Yota on the road the way you need to and can afford to.
Old cars like the your ForeRunner and my 1995 Lexus LS400 at some point become "hobby cars", the main objective naturally is to keep them on the road. Some parts for my 30 YEAR OLD LEXUS are no longer available; one has to go aftermarket OR make your own from scratch. I buy Genuine from AMAYAMA if available. Your channel has great content. Cheers from Australia.
Electronic parts such as sensors, modules, and fuel injectors I would go OEM. Mechanical suspension parts I would say aftermarket. You could replace all of those parts six more times for the same price as OEM. 🤣
Haters acting like "from the factory" vehicles and OEM parts dont crap out. Look how many recalls, airbags and OEM parts crap out constantly year after year. If the aftermarket parts were so bad, there wouldn't be any Dormans, etc surviving business. Ignore the hate Jimmy. You got this :)
Will be interesting to see if the parts last because i eould never recommend moog parts for toyota jimmy see you on the next video this rant wasnt necessary we all left them comments trying to inform you we know why you went cheap 20:02 @1Road
Right. Only caution is “Don’t buy at eBay”. Buy trusted brands from trusted sellers. Rockauto is a good place. There are too many counterfeit OEM parts at eBay from China.
Just letting you know what I have learned with my first Toyota. Toyota uses aftermarket parts as OEM. For example. Aisin makes many engine parts as well as most transmissions for Toyota. Advics is Aisin's brake division which makes brake pads, rotors, and calipers for Toyota. And then there's Denso which makes the majority of parts for Toyota. Some suspension parts are KYB.
I did a similar job on my 2007 FJ Cruiser. Bought most parts Tru Amazon but I did all new calipers, rotors, pads, inner and outer tie rods, shocks front and back with swaybar. Total price tru Toyota was close to $7k. I did it for around $1600.00 the labor if paid for all that work was close to $3,500.00. Then you have to get it aligned which is around $150.00 where I live. I can buy a hole new FJ for that money. It is insane.
Mechanic for 20+ years and I'll mix and match with my 96 Hilux Surf. I'll always use factory parts for ball joints and bearings 100% of the time. Control arms? Aftermarket as there's nothing to really get wrong with those. Endlinks? Aftermarket all the way. If you're looking around, you absolutely can find deals on any OE parts. I did just spend 300 bucks for aftermarket lower control arms and about the same for OEM Toyota lower ball joints. My camber/caster bolts are seized so I absolutely will ruin the 28 year old lower control arms with dry bushings.
To tell you honest truth it just makes sense going aftermarket. Most of the aftermarket manufacturers have actually improved upon the original design of the original part. You do have to do your due diligence but let the buyer beware.
you made the right move. I have a couple of toyota trucks and i would only really go oem when it involves the engine or steering rack. Toyotas of this generation are super reliable, but they are a car company and they need to make money too.
take that 3400 difference put it into a savings account and you could perpetually have free parts by the time you need it when the time comes. or ball out on some dobinsons.
I'm with you man. If you buy quality aftermarket and do research on some of the outside mechanical parts, like suspension and bearings, you'll be fine. Now when it comes to engine items like timing belt, water pump, etc. I go with Aisin or Toyota. I had to reclearance my valves on the 4.7l and I went genuine Toyota for the spacers for the valves. 9$ per spacer, a piece of metal the size of a dime, but it's a critical component in the engine so it is what it is. You just have to be smart about it.
I'm with you. there are many parts that are not really worth the extra cost but there are many parts that are worth that extra cost. alot of the stuff you replaced was a great aftermarket solution that I would also have done. some things I might go with something different like the knuckle I would have probably gone with a salvage part since it is a non wear item and if pulled from a lower mileage vehicle the bearing may have been a factory and potentially usable for many more miles, plus it's easy to change so I would risk something easy to change like that on my own vehicle. but overall looked like good choices to me.
Any chance you’ll do more GMC/Chevy videos soon? I’m looking at reinstalling cats where someone took them off. Definitely going to buy quality ”aftermarket”. Ps. Thanks for the videos. You’re my favorite RUclips channel.
Recommend saving up for genuine Toyota parts and doing some research on pricing; some dealers offer better deals than others. These older trucks are definitely worth investing in with quality OEM parts to keep them running smoothly for many more years. It's a much better long-term than relying on cheaper alternatives, especially when you want to keep them on the road longer than the newer Tacomas.
Jimmy I think some people forget living paycheck to paycheck, some OEM parts are discontinued and you can only get aftermarket parts, you also may have to get your vehicle up a running for work Monday and have to buy from your local auto parts store, I also like OEM parts but sometimes you can’t go that route, great video sir 👍😁
Paid 500$ for both lower control arms on mine. It’s my parents 4runner and sentimental value for them as they love the car. I’d rather keep them safe with OE parts. It’s just money at the end of the day.
Do not need to listen to those who stick to OEM parts for no matter what. Your logic is right on the spot that good aftermarket parts are the way to go for old vehicles. Some parts I will only go with Oem ( sensors such oxygen and Mac) or Oem manufactures (KYB struts) . My 02 Camry has advance auto parts CV axles ( about 80k miles on) , moog ball joints and sway bar links.
Been changing parts for 50 years. You are 100% right for mechanical parts. I do the same thing. One thing though, when it comes to electrical parts and sensors, After Market is risky..
Agree 👍
I agree with this. I recently did an apremium auto spark plug set/kit for my Altima and had intermittent misfires within a month. Went oem, problem solved.
I'd also like to add that critical engine parts are also risky to go aftermarket. For example, he has the 4.7 L V8, which is an absolutely excellent engine, but I would only use Denso timing belt and water pump replacement parts. Denso is the OEM supplier to Toyota, so you don't have to go to the dealer and spend three times as much to get OEM quality parts. But, on the flip side, when it comes to replacing brake pads and rotors, or ball joints and tie rod ends or sway bar links as he mentions in the video for an entire knuckle assembly, quality aftermarket parts are just fine. I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with nearly 200,000 Mi on it. It needed struts all the way around, and it needed sway bar links and lower control arms on the front. If I had bought all OEM parts, the bill would have been three times what my car is worth at least. Instead, I got good quality KYB struts front and rear, and I got Moog sway bar links and lower control arms complete with ball joints and bushings already installed. So what if these aftermarket parts might only last 120,000 Mi of 197,000 MI? Hopefully, I'll have the good fortune to need to replace them again when they are finally worn out.
Aftermarket is the way to go. I did the same thing you did and went with mostly Moog parts. We can replace everything almost 5 times and not spend what Toyota charges.
they are all aftermarket no manufacture makes everything
One thing you point out that is an absolute fact is; dealers are the worlds worse place to buy parts.
That's why we call 'em stealerships. Go to the parts department only to get bent over the counter.
Unfortunately, dealerships are the only way to get genuine parts, that's Toyota's terms. The pricing is essentially the same at every Toyota dealership in the country. There's one price Toyota will tell them to sell it at, and then any dealership can keep that price or go lower, but not higher.
@@youtubasoarusyep
@RoccoReviews thats not true in my town of phoenix, i called multiple dealerships and got difference prices even for basic stuff like filters.
@asadb1990 well I know but I mean go on the main Toyota parts website and they have one set MSRP, and usually it will be different at dealers but I don't think they're allowed to go over there MSRP that Toyota themselves set. Like a timing gear for my Camry is $347 from Toyota themselves and every dealer in a 500 mile radius of me either has it the same price or cheaper, it's different prices but never over the MSRP set but Toyota
My son owns a '03 G35. He needed new control arm bushings. Infinity quoted him $3500 because they dont replace bushings, they replace the entire control arm, and all 4 of his front control arms were $3500. We bought Energy Suspension bushings and for $150 and a 10 hour Saturday, we replaced everything needed to align the car properly. Also, as a mechanic myself, I am regularly finding out that OEM parts from the big 3 are total junk anyway, so you might as well save some money 'cause the parts arent going to last. The exception is parts that the computer can see, and then you are dealing with resistance that makes the computer unhappy on aftermarket parts, so we tend to spend more for oem. Jimmy, you made a sound financial decision... ignore the haters.
Good points there. Thank you.
The Car Care Nut on RUclips definitely puts on all Toyota parts for his customers so I guess there is at least one person out there spending the big money on Toyota parts!
but not his money 😎
yes, but he also suggests shopping around for the lowest price. He specifically says to not go to the dealership to buy OEM parts as you can often find same OEM parts for less if you shop around
I wish I lived in Illinois. I will give my Lexus GS350 to “The Car Care Nut” to repair if need.
I understand what you say about dealer pricing, but you can buy OEM parts online or high quality OEM suppliers like Denso, Delphi, etc.
Well done Mate! I am certainly in your camp on this issue. As you said, "It's a no brainer!"
Jimmy, you made the right decision.
I saw someone say the aftermarket parts will fail in 100,000 miles but the Toyota parts will last 200,000 miles.
You paid 1/8 the price for aftermarket parts, so that means you can go 800,000 miles on the same price as the Toyota parts before you pay more than the Toyota parts. Nobody expects you will get that many miles out of that truck.
Also, if that truck has about 260,000 miles on it now, plus it is already worn-out original Toyota parts and one aftermarket parts, that means the original Toyota parts didn't last 200,000 miles either.
If you're gonna drive 40k mi/yr maybe you save overall with the OEM after labor, but yeah, that's not going to be most people.
Saying that they'll fail in "100,000 miles" as a reason to not buy them is hilarious when we're talking about TWENTY YEAR OLD cars😂 Are these people planning on driving their 20 year old cars for 300,000 more miles or something? Some people's kids man... lmao
@@RyTrapp0 Depends how much you drive, and how dangerous it is if the part fails, or is routinely going to be stressed beyond normal highway use. It is a calculation that everyone should make based on their own needs. For most people, the aftermarket part will be fine, unless it's something like an axle, where if the side that fits into the transmission makes a particularly poor fit, it may damage the transmission.
I'm the original owner of an 03 Toyota Sequoia. At 305k miles, I replaced most of the original suspension using only new OEM parts. My logic was to look at the vehicle's potential as opposed to its age and fmv. Since I have no intent to sell, I concluded that I could easily drive another 300k + miles on the vehicle. So, I preferred to pay upfront (and possibly saving money) as opposed to paying multiple times replacing parts on my way to 600k miles. I also have greater confidence in OEM parts and generally feel safer. Of course, at 21 years, a lot of OEM parts have been discontinued. So I have bought aftermarket parts.
From your point of view, I would absolutely agree! If bought new and lasted you 300k+ miles then buying new oem replacement parts has value to last and expect another 300k+ miles.
Now if I bought a used vehicle than my thought process maybe different bc most people would only view the used car as only the value it was purchased at.
But if I bought used vehicle with 200k+ miles, with the intent to keep FOR THE REST OF CARS LIFE, then buying OEM part would be a small investment to expect it lasting as long or longer bc it is a toyota!
@@vince510 Exactly correct. After driving a car for 300k you love it and the prospect of paying 50k for a new car makes the part cost a bargain.
What happens when you can't get the computer parts is where I see a problem developing for modern vehicles. An old carburetored points and distributor vehicle can last forever but can the ones with a dozen different computer control modules.
@@vincentrockel1149 my '94 Integra says yes
I have a 2001 Land Cruiser and it only gets Toyota parts. I purchase parts from Partsouq and Amayama. Serra Toyota out of Alabama has periodic parts sales where they offer 25% off their already discounted price plus free shipping and no tax. Don’t go to the dealership for parts! Love your channel.
That’s where I get my parts for my JDM cars. Toyota, Nissan and Mazda . They have prices too .
I have heard of Amayama but need to check out Partsoq and the Alabama dealer.
Do you know if Serra ships to the lower 48 for free? Their 25% off is quite compelling.
@@lejoshmont2093 Yes, as long as you spend 75.00. Which is not very hard to do.
I really doubt he didn’t know that. I believe he just wanted to use the dealer prices to make his point more strongly.
The Online OEM prices are still out of his budget I guess.
It is his car. He can use any thing he wants. For me, I only want to put the Toyota parts in my Lexus but I know some technicians did not. They may not even do the job correctly!
I was pleasantly surprised to find my local Lexus (Toyotas luxury brand) dealer offered 50% discounted prices for internet ordered parts with free UPS ground shipping. I saw the internet price and actually visited the dealer to get the part and was told the much lower price was for internet orders and the in-person purchased price would be 2x more. So I went home and ordered the part and UPS delivered it the next day. The price was much lower than any shown on Amazon and eBay for the OEM part and about the same price as an aftermarket non-OEM part. Moral of the story is to shop via the internet, including the dealerships, to find the low priced deals.
Hey ,Thanks for that info!
Absolutely love the content you are putting out! I too use aftermarket parts in a lot of cases and most of the time I am satisfied. We owned a 2013 toyota 4runner and the only time aftermarket bit me was on brakes and rotors. I replaced mine and had issues within 5K miles. It was not remedied until all were replaced with genuine toyota brakes and rotors. So that’s just my heads up to you. Keep up the great content....your hard work is not lost on us that know where you’re coming from.
Thanks!
I find this so interesting. I have had really good luck with aftermarket rotors and pads. They on the sort list of acceptable parts that are not oem for me. I did a rear oem brake job by the book and I have had more issues than with good quality after market rotors and pads.
I recently bought a 2005 Lexus GX470 with 138k miles for $8500. I had the same dilemma. Needed CV axles replaced and struts were shot. I did an air bag delete and went with KYB shocks and struts with a metal tech 4x4 rear spring kit. My axles were original but I bought aftermarket because of the price of remanned Toyota. I had the mechanic save the originals so I can reboot so when the aftermarket fails I can go back to original for cheaper. I couldn’t imagine spending a ton of money on the highest quality parts to only have the engine or transmission potentially go out on a 250k miles vehicle. Hopefully, I can get another 100k on most of the original parts before they need replaced.
Exactly. Those GX470s are super cool.
I own a '22 gx460 and a '02 sequoia. Those engines never go out if religously maintained.
KYB are the OEM for toyota they are good. Some one at some point installed them on my high mileage car and they are still trucking. If you are taking care of your toyota 250k is low, very low for my expectations when it comes to engines and transmissions.
Hi Jimmie, I love your videos and how passionate you are about keeping your vehicles in top notch running conditions. I just watched your latest 20+ minutes video on answering the "haters" comments. I can't understand why you let "others" rent space in your head. You don't owe explanations to anybody on this earth for your actions. People are going to react anything and everything we do. I'm an 80 yr old mechanic both auto and mechanical and I've been called all kinds of names both good and nasty, Nuff' said. Keep those great videos coming.
Who cares what others say? You do whats best for you and your financial situation. I just finnished the front end on my toyota sienna. I bought a cheep kit off Amazon with struts lower cotrol arms cv axels and all rod ends for $500. I can replace it 5 times for the price of toyotas parts.
My sentiments exactly. Do the same on my 06 Honda Odyssey. All the wheel bearings failed abt 150k. RockAuto for rears, but junkyard for fronts with spindle for $$200. It is a crime to subsidize the dealer. Not sure why dealers charge so much, but it appears the parts and service departments are the real money makers for the dealership. New cars do not make much profit when you consider the cost of floor planning for inventory. New cars do bring in the used cars where they make more profit than the new.
Given the high cost of vehicles today it is amazing most of them do not go out of business. Not sure why dealers think they can inflate the prices and the stupid public will buy, buy, buy. Think America has reached the point where new is too expensive so we just keep the old ones running as long as possible.
@@Lloyd-z3q The insanely high price of new vehicles is the reason why I don't mind spending on OEM parts from respectable sellers, which is definitely not my local dealer. Also have to add to the fact that I am not exactly keen on getting new vehicles even if they were half the price. I am all with you on picking thru the junkyard for a diamond in the rough.
This makes me anxious. I even if was only 3 replacements to 1 I would probably go with oem. Though I think the discount you got does level it out a bit.
What you done makes perfect sense. I agree with everything you said.
i did the same thing on my 04 4runner. I replaced the entire suspension except for the track bar for 800 bucks.
front upper and lower control arms(bushing and balljoints) easier then pressing them out
rear upper and lower arms and bushings
inner and outer tie rods
front and rear endlinks and sway bushings
all after market
all good
I thought this was going to be a Toyota bashing video at first, but within a couple of minutes I realized I had watched your videos before, including when you got this (I remember it being all dirty inside). A very well spoken, common sense presentation! I agree with everything you said here. I hope RUclips is still around and you're still doing videos in another 100,000-200,000 miles or so, so you can inform us about the wear or failure of any of these parts.
By the way, in your calculations, I think you forgot to add the seals, unless I missed it, which would have put the cost over $4,000! You definitely made the most logical decision. 👍
Agree with you 100%. It's good to know people are out there on vehicle platforms that share knowledge & experience on aftermarket parts.
Thank you for not getting a PT Cruiser!
I was this close… 👌
@@1RoadGarage Watch some car wizard vids on the tooby. 😊
@@1RoadGarage HHR's are better. :P
(a PT Cruiser GT[the turbo] build could be fun though... get it into the 10s or 9s, PT cruiser rolling around on drag slicks😁)
It's funny when they put all that oem money in the car just for them to wind up posting the wreck on reddit later lol
Totally with you man, go OEM when it makes sense, or go aftermarket when it makes sense. Plus, they do that crap where they're forcing to replace good parts to get the few parts you actually need.
I’ve checked out some of the comments about using the Toyota OEM parts versus aftermarket. Cost is a huge factor but those of us in the automotive industry knew what happened with MOOG many many years ago. They placed cost over quality. I believe many of the comments were based on that reality. In addition, those of us that own Toyotas know they’re made for long term ownership based on quality and reliability, specifically 4Runners. I’ve seen an 04 4Runner approaching 300,000 miles (2nd owner) I’ve seen the rubber on those aftermarket (Mevotech) upper and lower bushing of those control arms crack and deteriorate within 2 year period of installation. The new owner is now wanting to the Toyota OE control arms. We just decided to purchase them directly from Japan and avoid the markup. We might pay a small US Customs fee (CBP), but we’re obtaining the original quality with an 50% savings. Amayama is a Japanese parts broker.
One thing is for sure that this 4Runner should be called "Argo", as it seems to beautifully display Theseus's Paradox. Great stuff, loved to watch and I think it says a lot about a person to say "this is where I am now and I can change my mind later"!
It is ok to use aftermarket parts, just buy good quality ones. For example KYB shock absorbers, TRW, ATE or akebono brakes, AISIN(used by Toyota)water pump or clutch and many many more. There are good parts available for Toyota other than OEM. And by the way i use prestone washer fluid not Toyota oem :D
I just put in an Aisin water pump. Scratched off the side of it was "Toyota." 😂 literally a Toyota part.
Jimmy, I'm not sure how to say this as eloquently as it deserves to be said, but I believe your philosophy of auto repair is what most of us diy'ers of my generation call: "The old school American way of taking care of business!" It's one of the main reasons I follow your channel.
What a lot of people don't understand is that NONE of the big auto manufacturers make a lot of their own component parts. They are made to the manufacturers specifications, branded and packaged based on a contract from suppliers around the globe. Water pumps, shock absorbers, struts and axles, etc. What was done with this 4Runner was to use a very high quality aftermarket brand which is made by a global manufacturer of both aftermarket and OE parts. And you might be surprised that sometimes the exact same parts are available as "aftermarket" at a substantial savings over the OE parts. If you've watched OE parts lists you will often see "superseding" parts. These parts may come from a different contract, or different supplier, or have a product improvement, or a bunch of other reasons. I have also seen OE's supply replacement parts that are very obviously repackaged "aftermarket" brands that they buy in bulk to meet a price point in the market as vehicles age and their market value plummets and people refuse to pay $3,000 in repairs for a $5,000 vehicle. They sometimes even provide "value lines" in order to remain competitive with the aftermarket. I know for a fact that GM, Toyota and Honda have done this. So I suggest everyone do yourselves a favor and do your research before crying the blind faith religion that OE parts are ALWAYS the best. The reality is the market is extremely nuanced and you can sometimes improve the vehicle by using some aftermarket parts available at potentially cheaper cost to you vs OE "branded" parts. My $.02 and wishing everyone the nicest of days.
I've manufactured components for vehicles. Same factory, same components. The QC difference between say a Chrysler product and a high performance vehicle's quality testing on that one small part would blow your mind. Same part Same company though. One seller's gets dropped, it's in the box. The other in the trash. There are probably people with failed fuel pumps because of my hangovers back in the day.
Welcome to the kind and loving Toyota world! I can’t speak for your 4Runner, but in a first gen Tacoma….at the very least, the lower ball joints should be replaced w/ OEM. It’s a funky design and Moogs are known to fail catastrophically causing expensive damage. You also learn to get really good at shopping around at dealerships. You can almost always get parts cheaper online than over the phone from dealerships. And then there is 555, quality made Japanese parts….and aisin and denso OEM parts can often be found on rock auto…oh the learning curve is big, and the community is opinionated. welcome to the fam✊
Moog quality has fallen off quite a bit over the last decade or so too unfortunately. Such a bummer when they used to make such good parts.
Sankei 555 is a decent alternative.
For me and for the most part, I only buy Toyota parts that are electronic or electric in nature. If they’re a high dollar part, I might see what the scrapyard has.
Yep. Aftermarket parts that talk to the computer don't condition power (voltage/resistance) the way OEM parts do, so you end up doing all the work just to find the codes still pop. And with the shitty sourcing of parts sold by the dealer as "OEM," it's still a crap shoot. Good comment, sir.
Right there with you on OEM Toyota Parts. Make sense to to do a cost risk analysis when looking at a $3400 cost difference. You are thinking correctly especially when you know the parts you are putting on YOUR the vehicle.
I learned about that when i bought a knock off Denso O2 sensor. When it comes to those type of parts, i will only buy oem.
Jimmy, i think you did a great job. Me personally, i would have gotten a salvage yard knuckle if available if you really wanted "oem". Im in that same boat you are with my 98 Chevy. 447,000 miles,im not going high dollar gm parts pllus some are discontinued anyway. Keep doing you! Love your content! Beautiful scenery behind you.
447k!! Wow. I will certainly head to a salvage yard soon enough. Just haven’t had a chance yet. Thanks!
I am with you all the way sometimes even the dealer parts aren’t much better at times but good replacement aftermarket such as Dorman and moog are great choices keep up the great work
you don’t need to explain buddy. Sharing your experience is priceless to most DIY’ers.
**
‘04 4Runner SR5 4x4
- front axles: Cardone HD
- wheel hub/bearing assembly: Detroit Axle
so far, so good. 🤙🏽
I venture mainly on fire roads and moderately challenging off road trails.
You are 100% correct. Coming from a long time toyota guy. 300k mile 1998 lexus GS and 360k mile 2006 Sienna.
You're spot on. My 2005 4Runner has had sway bar link ends that were aftermarket replacements with a lifetime warranty. The original ones lasted me for 200,000 + miles. The aftermarket ones have been replaced 4 times with 110,000 miles. Never again will I buy aftermarket parts. Toyota only from now on
You're totally right here, especially with small individual parts like the ball joints. If the car is 20 years old, just get the best aftermarket parts possible. Otherwise the car just becomes a money pit.
Hit the nail on the head! Totally agree. Without mentioning names on and from RUclips I know exactly who you are talking about. And the parts you were referring to before you even mentioned them. I was actually waiting for this video. 100% agree with ya. By the way, sweet 4Runner, I have a 3rd Gen. Best vehicles on earth.
Nice! Really like the 4Runner. I wanted a 3rd gen for so long!!
You're a very good speaker. Keep up the good work.
Good video. For me, it all depends on what the part is and the year and mileage of the vehicle. I do, for the most part, buy genuine Toyota for my 2010 4runner. But in your case, I would have done what you did.
I totally agree with the route that you took on that vehicle. It’s really doesn’t make sense to spend almost as much on just a few front end parts as you pay for the entire vehicle. You’re going to have naysayers, but, you just keep doing what you’re doing and creating great content.
AC Delco sway bar links for my 13 year old Sienna lasted 3 months before they started clunking. Ended up going OE, and spending the time to replace them again. I value my time over money, even at double the price the OE is worth it for me.
The only thing that I would have maybe gone Toyota OEM on was the spindle. Either that or see if I could get a nice one at a junkyard (I know you talked about the latter in your videos)
Few notes though. NSK or Koyo Seiko bearings are the Toyota OEM suppliers. Aisin is also Toyota OEM for when you have to do your timing belt and water pump again. KYB or Bilstein is Toyota OEM for struts and shocks. Lastly, Sankei-555 (through NAPA) was the Toyota OEM ball joint supplier, but they may have started sourcing parts from a third party manufacturer based on some posts on the forums. The most important thing is getting a ball joint with a metal instead of plastic ball and socket which the Sankei-555 ball joints used to be. You could also go with aftermarket parts that have limited lifetime warranties like Napa's premium line.
You are 100% correct though based on your cost analysis. Even if the aftermarket parts fail 3X over your ownership, you are still ahead. Great videos!
I agree with your descisions. I prefer OEM, WHENEVER YOU CAN. But if you can economise and have a small home shop to swap out, you are GTG. Quantity over Quality has its wisdom as well.
Jimmy ,I have been watching your videos for a long time because you are a man after my own heart. in my a opinion you are 💯 spot on in your choices. I buy oem whenever possible. I have used Moog parts for most of my adult years and they have served me well. electrical parts are hard to find oem on alot of gm parts because of being discontinued. enjoyed your video!!
Hands down for me, you made the right move with the aftermarket parts. If you were looking at $500 aftermarket vs $800 factory, then I might go factory! Also I would take into consideration the age of the vehicle as well.
I'm with you. Doing maintenance is the most important aspect not how much you spend. Keep up the good content.
I totally agree with you sir. My daughter has a 1996 4Runner that needs front end parts as well and I don’t want to spend a fortune on an old vehicle like that. Thanks for your opinion.
We appreciate you and your videos. Don’t listen to the criticism. Installation accuracy is more important than oem parts AS LONG AS the quality of the part is good.
I agree with your sentiment, I regularly will purchase oem when I feel it's justified but it often depends on the vehicle I'm working on. I recently bought a rough 04 gx470 with 250k miles, love the vehicle, and fully intend to give it all the love it needs to stay on the road for years to come. I just rebuilt the front end with aftermarket parts. I only purchased the vehicle for 1100$ so I couldn't justify paying for oem.
I'm definitely on both sides of the video. With the Moog hub assemblies you could essentially change a failed one out five times for the price of the one and I would highly doubt they would fail that fast
Smart man! One thing I learned from the The Car Care Guy in one of his videos is that if you buy a so called "genuine Toyota part" on line and not at the dealer there is an excellent chance you are getting a counterfeit so if not buying a part from the dealer a high quality aftermarket part is better than taking a chance on a counterfeit. Although not a car this happened to me with my HP printer. I bought replacement HP ink from E Bay. The box looked exactly like and identical to the HP packaging but they were counterfeit as the printer detected they were counterfeit. Lots and lots of counterfeits out there in anything that is made, Come to think of it I have a genuine Rolex for sale. Interested? HA!!!!
yea be careful buying parts on ebay and amazon. Buyer beware.
@@lejoshmont2093 I love it when they use the word "genuine." Genuine as in real or genuine as in genuine?
I love your content and am particularly enjoying this project series; I have a 2011 Sienna with 205k miles. My goal is to see how far I can take it. For the most part, I choose to go OEM with visions of rolling 500k miles. I found that there are aggressively priced genuine parts online from authorized dealers; I print off their prices and go to the local dealers, and I have had incredible success with them matching or even beating the lowest prices online. I have saved thousands. When it hit 200K miles I started looking at wear items and am preemptively replacing them one by one. Also a huge fan of Rock Auto. I did use Rock for plugs and coils when I realized they had the same Denso parts with matching part numbers for a fraction of the price.
You are right. Calm down and make this shorter. Ignore the wrong comments.
I have a very similar mindset with you. Owning 2001 Mitsubishi Montero I replaced front and rear bushings with shocks and all wheel bearing. Used aftermarket for 90% parts. For wheel bearing I’d recommend BCA cause they are part of NTN and NTN is Mitsubishi and Toyota parts supplier. For axles I’d try getting OEM from junk yard and rebooting. Lucky I didn’t need to change mine. I used polyurethane for bushings and pressed myself.
Thank you for your videos! You are great! Good luck with this old girl.
Moog Isnt the Best aftermarket parts you can find And Rock Auto Isnt a Place to reference parts by brand or make nor does rock auto have anything to do with what brand has good or bad quality your spreading miss information jimmy 4:34 @1Road
These haters are looney tunes!! If they reach out to me I'll refer them to a good neurologist. Like you Jimmy, I bought for around $4,500 a 2001 Lexus ES300. It had 109K in mileage when I bought it - now has around 185K. Some maintenance needed, but nothing out of the ordinary. Shocks are all gone, Toyota NO LONGER SELLS SHOCKS TO THIS VEHICLE - but to get springs for aftermarket KYB struts would cost approx. $750/per spring. That's right , 3 K just for the springs. Then of course, my driver's side axle is slinging grease now, so once again for the haters who have no idea what they are talking about sugest OEM - but Toyota NO LONGER SELLS THE CV AXLES TO THIS vehicle. So Rock Auto is it for me, etc. I think you get the point, your after market items are a g-d send, as oem parts aren't even sold anymore. Further, economically, you can replace your cv axles every two years for the next 8 years AND still come out ahead. You made (as did I) the right choice.
I agree with this premise entirely.
One thing that I’ll add is that dealer pricing is highly variable. Often their online prices are 20-50% cheaper than their in store prices. But the REAL scoop is getting a good relationship with your local parts guy. He has a LOT of control over the price they charge you.
I’m with you brother. Thanks Jimmy you did great!
We have an 06 Accord V6 had it since new. Honda charges stupid $$ for everything. The powersteering pump started leaking. Honda parts wanted $750.00 for the tiny little pump. I went to Napa and bought a new Napa pump for arond $200.00. That was a few years back and the pump works like a champ!
Glad to hear it!
Welcome to the Toyota world! 1st gen tundra owner here . Absolutely nothing wrong with going aftermarket. For the amount of $ you spent . You can replace the parts again and again if they fail 👍
I've owned Toyotas for 25 years. I use aftermarket parts for the most part and I had never said to myself that I should've bought OEM parts. I have never had issues with good aftermarket parts.
In regards to the knuckle replacement you can still buy OEM Toyota. Look into a junkyard or you pull it etc. My wife's rav4 automatic tailgate motor went and brand new was 350. Went on a U-Pull-It junkyard site and got a good quality one still OEM for less than half
Replaced almost my entire running gear via Rock Auto - haven’t looked back at all
I totally agree with you 100%... I have a 04 GMC Sierra and I will only buy Original GM parts if it it's a life safety issue... Also, most aftermarket parts are guaranteed to exceed OEM Spces so that should be some consultation... IMHO
They are just haters who think they know. I went MOOG (end link sway bars)on my 2014 is350. oem was wayy to expensive so far so good .
Just paid 3k for a 2004 GX470 with 257k miles. So far I’ve put in new CV boots, water pump, timing belt, both idler pulleys and a new radiator. Still have a lot to go and RockAuto is a money saver..
Jimmy I'm right there with you on this. The factory parts are rediculously priced and are not worth the expense. I had a 2003 Silverado that needed a new throttle body and gas pedal actuator. I tried aftermarket and it wouldn't run right and kept going into limp mode. I had to use GM parts because the PCM didn't like those aftermarket parts. Another example was when the braces from the frame to under carriage rusted out the dealer wanted $85 for each one! They were 22" long and 3/4" diameter, I bought a stick of 3/4" galvanized rigid conduit & made my own for $18. What they're too ignorant to understand is if they would offer their parts at a more reasonable price they would sell more and make more $$ in the long run.
The problem with the OEM crowd with any manufacturer is sometimes OEM parts are simply worse. I'll give a few examples. You need to buy parts to match your goals. Honda guys love Honda oil filters and often won't run anything else. The kicker is Honda filters are only 66% efficient at 20u. Many aftermarket filters are now 99% at 20u with nearly identical flow rates due to synthetic filter media. OEM isn't always better. There is often objective measures by which we can evaluate parts and choose the best option for our goals.
Its not all about filtration with oem oil filters, they are designed for your engine, thus they have bypass valves and flow characteristics for that oil pump and oil type.
Most aftermarket filters valves are way off compared to oem. Its a small chance you will need the bypass valve to work an. Emergency however it could save your engine. Always research aftmarket parts and stay away from FRAM.
On a $5k vehicle, IMO you did great!
As I said in my comment on the previous video, if you think the truck is going to be still running in another 250k miles/20 years, then fitting parts that will probably last that long MIGHT make sense. But even then, with the price difference you found, it’s probably not justifiable.
Even if you need to repeat the job twice over the next twenty years, you’re still ahead.
I’m with you all the way. Ignore the naysayers.
For anyone here looking at replacing LCAs and UCAs on this platform and GX470, consider the Super Pro LCA set and Old Man Emu UCA set. The combination is about $1k. That’s significantly lower than Toyota OEM.
They have been fantastic, no fuss, since installed in my GX 2 years ago.
05 Toyota Tacoma owner here with 209K miles. I do my own work. I buy aftermarket parts. when I first had it, I had a opps and blow out the seals in the steering rack (hit something). could only get factory rack. drove a year with no power steering as I wasn't going to pay the price they wanted for it. did the frame recall but the rear leaf springs they they put on it are crap. planning to do a 2" lift with new leaf springs to solve the problem. (need new shocks and struts anyway.
Never call a dealer for OEM parts, online wholesalers for Toyota parts are way cheaper, or find the parts made by denso, Aisin, Bilstein, 555 etc that were the manufacturers for the OEM parts. For those of us planning to keep our Toyotas around for 400k+ OEM parts @ 200k miles is worth it, most of the time, saves you having to replace that part a 2nd time lol.
^This guy gets it.
All genuine oem Toyota parts come from Toyota dealerships. For whatever reason , prices vary sometimes a lot, so it is very worthwhile to shop around.
I went through Toyota parts deal when resealing all oil gaskets on my 5sfe camry. Big pita dealing with them but for certain things I only want oem.
That's the thing with dealerships, they even have to play a game with parts pricing.
I remember about eight years ago the AC Compressor for my Volvo went bad. Dealer, Volvo re manufactured AC compressor with a one year warranty and installation $1600. Autozone, re-manufactured compressor with a lifetime warranty, my local garage installed it for me, $640
I agree with you, get what you can with what you have! I have an 07 FJ and I will try and use OEM parts when it is feasible, but sometimes you have to go after market. My CV boots are a good example, driver side boot ripped and dumped grease everywhere. I had Toyota dealership install a new one. a few months later the passenger side started going, but because it was so much I had another shop do it for half the price. It really depends on what it is or how much it is. I prefer Toyota parts, but some aftermarket parts are necessary from a financial standpoint. I use Rock Auto and Toyota Parts Deal for a lot of my parts. I also try to check with other dealerships around the country to see if they have a sale on parts with free shipping (rare, but it happens). It is surprising to me if I order a part online from one of the two local dealerships it is cheaper than going straight to the dealerships. I would love to have all OEM parts, but sometimes I just can't do it. Like someone else said. sensors and electronics, got to go OEM and Hope not to get a fake in a Toyota box. I bought an MAF sensor to have an extra on hand, got it from Amazon, but it threw a code the moment after I installed it. I put the old one back on reset codes and nothing, lesson learned, I will pay the extra money and get it from the dealership or a genuine Toyota parts dealer. Keep doing what you are doing. Get YOUR Yota on the road the way you need to and can afford to.
Old cars like the your ForeRunner and my 1995 Lexus LS400 at some point become "hobby cars", the main objective naturally is to keep them on the road. Some parts for my 30 YEAR OLD LEXUS are no longer available; one has to go aftermarket OR make your own from scratch. I buy Genuine from AMAYAMA if available. Your channel has great content. Cheers from Australia.
Jimmy, You gotta do what you gotta do with what you have/can...... Keep those Moogs lubed:) I do like the White Line bushings for the front end.
Electronic parts such as sensors, modules, and fuel injectors I would go OEM. Mechanical suspension parts I would say aftermarket. You could replace all of those parts six more times for the same price as OEM. 🤣
OEM sensors are not Toyota either. They're likely Bosch, NGK etc... People don't get that do they?
Amen!
For CVs, I like to go with Napa as they offer great warranty and there are 20% discount codes always floating around.
Haters acting like "from the factory" vehicles and OEM parts dont crap out. Look how many recalls, airbags and OEM parts crap out constantly year after year. If the aftermarket parts were so bad, there wouldn't be any Dormans, etc surviving business. Ignore the hate Jimmy. You got this :)
Will be interesting to see if the parts last because i eould never recommend moog parts for toyota jimmy see you on the next video this rant wasnt necessary we all left them comments trying to inform you we know why you went cheap 20:02 @1Road
Right. Only caution is “Don’t buy at eBay”. Buy trusted brands from trusted sellers. Rockauto is a good place. There are too many counterfeit OEM parts at eBay from China.
Local “in person” dealerships are the most expensive. Did you happen to check prices for Toyota parts that are sold through an “online” dealership?
Given the age of the vehicle, was any consideration given to used, junk yard parts? Certainly not all of them but some?
Just letting you know what I have learned with my first Toyota. Toyota uses aftermarket parts as OEM. For example. Aisin makes many engine parts as well as most transmissions for Toyota. Advics is Aisin's brake division which makes brake pads, rotors, and calipers for Toyota. And then there's Denso which makes the majority of parts for Toyota. Some suspension parts are KYB.
I did a similar job on my 2007 FJ Cruiser. Bought most parts Tru Amazon but I did all new calipers, rotors, pads, inner and outer tie rods, shocks front and back with swaybar. Total price tru Toyota was close to $7k. I did it for around $1600.00 the labor if paid for all that work was close to $3,500.00. Then you have to get it aligned which is around $150.00 where I live. I can buy a hole new FJ for that money. It is insane.
I agree totally with your thought process. I would have done the same.
Mechanic for 20+ years and I'll mix and match with my 96 Hilux Surf. I'll always use factory parts for ball joints and bearings 100% of the time. Control arms? Aftermarket as there's nothing to really get wrong with those. Endlinks? Aftermarket all the way.
If you're looking around, you absolutely can find deals on any OE parts.
I did just spend 300 bucks for aftermarket lower control arms and about the same for OEM Toyota lower ball joints. My camber/caster bolts are seized so I absolutely will ruin the 28 year old lower control arms with dry bushings.
Rockauto is always the move!
To tell you honest truth it just makes sense going aftermarket. Most of the aftermarket manufacturers have actually improved upon the original design of the original part. You do have to do your due diligence but let the buyer beware.
you made the right move. I have a couple of toyota trucks and i would only really go oem when it involves the engine or steering rack. Toyotas of this generation are super reliable, but they are a car company and they need to make money too.
take that 3400 difference put it into a savings account and you could perpetually have free parts by the time you need it when the time comes. or ball out on some dobinsons.
Great video ! Loved all the points !
I'm with you man. If you buy quality aftermarket and do research on some of the outside mechanical parts, like suspension and bearings, you'll be fine. Now when it comes to engine items like timing belt, water pump, etc. I go with Aisin or Toyota. I had to reclearance my valves on the 4.7l and I went genuine Toyota for the spacers for the valves. 9$ per spacer, a piece of metal the size of a dime, but it's a critical component in the engine so it is what it is. You just have to be smart about it.
I'm with you. there are many parts that are not really worth the extra cost but there are many parts that are worth that extra cost. alot of the stuff you replaced was a great aftermarket solution that I would also have done. some things I might go with something different like the knuckle I would have probably gone with a salvage part since it is a non wear item and if pulled from a lower mileage vehicle the bearing may have been a factory and potentially usable for many more miles, plus it's easy to change so I would risk something easy to change like that on my own vehicle. but overall looked like good choices to me.
Any chance you’ll do more GMC/Chevy videos soon? I’m looking at reinstalling cats where someone took them off. Definitely going to buy quality ”aftermarket”. Ps. Thanks for the videos. You’re my favorite RUclips channel.
Recommend saving up for genuine Toyota parts and doing some research on pricing; some dealers offer better deals than others. These older trucks are definitely worth investing in with quality OEM parts to keep them running smoothly for many more years. It's a much better long-term than relying on cheaper alternatives, especially when you want to keep them on the road longer than the newer Tacomas.
Scotty Kilmer, here on RUclips, has SUPERB INFORMATION RE TOYOTA
Jimmy I think some people forget living paycheck to paycheck, some OEM parts are discontinued and you can only get aftermarket parts, you also may have to get your vehicle up a running for work Monday and have to buy from your local auto parts store, I also like OEM parts but sometimes you can’t go that route, great video sir 👍😁
Paid 500$ for both lower control arms on mine. It’s my parents 4runner and sentimental value for them as they love the car. I’d rather keep them safe with OE parts. It’s just money at the end of the day.
"It's just money" LoL.. Yeah well not all of us have a money tree growing out back. Some of us need to have a sense of money management..
@ then you can’t afford a Toyota then. Just get a Kia
I AM ON TOYOTA FORUMS.. HAVE SEEN PEOPLE STATING THE NON-OEM LOWER CONTROL ARMS ARE RIPPING AT RIVETS. NO WAY! STAY WITH OEM.
@@Chorizomicksyou make it seem like your beater 4Runner is something special “can’t afford a Toyota “ 😂 it’s a Toyota man relax
Kia dealership would probably ream out your ass for parts too
Do not need to listen to those who stick to OEM parts for no matter what. Your logic is right on the spot that good aftermarket parts are the way to go for old vehicles. Some parts I will only go with Oem ( sensors such oxygen and Mac) or Oem manufactures (KYB struts) . My 02 Camry has advance auto parts CV axles ( about 80k miles on) , moog ball joints and sway bar links.
My Camry has 188k miles