I just heated up a small spoon and melted the pipe to fix the leak maybe Ile do the same on the other leak which a hospital glove is holding it Is this why we attacking hospitals so I run it? 😭
Was curious to see how you got that last piece of copper piping in, I guess you just stretch the lower and top pipes apart, if there's no play i imagine you would have to do it differently.
M8 I have a tap like that just installed. Could you tell me what kind of adapter I need to put on it. I need one that will attach to my hose end connector. Thank you in advance.
You can't solder when the stop tap is passing. As a bare minimum he had to use the plastic tee. Could've soldered the rest, but the cost of the 2 plastics fittings is not really significant. Really needs a check valve though.
I would of liked to know how to work out how much copper pipe to cut to add to the push fit. I think you measure from a certain point on the push fit but i would like to see it done
Easy way to work out the x-dimensions: push some pipe in the fitting all the way and mark it off where it just comes out the fitting. Measure that mark to the end of the pipe you pushed in (let's say you measure 10mil for the fitting you're using). Now measure the entire length of the fitting and take that 10mil from the x-dimensions off twice for your new measurement (once for either end, so 20mil in total in this case). When cutting the pipe ready for insert, measure and mark off a section equivalent to the last measurement you took of the fitting with the x-dimensions into account. Cut it out and it should fit perfectly. In the real world though, once you get doing it - being off a couple mil is fine. It's worth being timely for the sake of not being 100% exact if the work is still of good quality. Often pipes can have a fair bit of give so you'll just be able pull them a bit into place. I don't really ever use push-fit though so I'm not sure how much stress they can be put under before the teeth inside start to fail but a soldered joint would hold absolutely fine if pulled a mil or two either way. I hope that gives at least some explanation 🙂
nice video man! however, one question; if theres two isolation valves on the two hot and cold pipes do i put the tee above or underneath the valve. cheers
I never understand why people think silicone is so important. Yeah put it in for sanity but do people think they don't have holes in their brick work all around their house? And do they think if the one hole you made for your tap is the one that's going to make the brick work fail or allow water ingress? Reading the comments anyone would think it's a bad job just because no silicone... it's like the least important aspect 😂
Imma thinkin of the conflicts countries have due to their conceitedness leading to the many disparate gauges and then promote rules based new world order. Lets get started with damn politicians by asking them to standardise all their toilets(water closet) to the garden gauge and taps and fittings and fixtures. This is what i am thinking of doing to the mixer tap in my toilet. Garden gauges and removeable quick releases. Kitchen sink tap bottom screw-clamp i found for top bottom hand tighten sandwich.... need to hunt slowly for next round.
That’s no socket for the washing machine it’s plugged in on an extension wire and who has a boiler in the bathroom what would you do if it’s to hot and want to take the heating of and someone is inside doing the shit😂😂
- hmmmm - No pipe sleeve, no silicone, no double check valve - don't be doing my outside tap thanks
I was thinking the same thing 🤔
Clearly the bloke shouldn’t be plumbing
If you know what your doing why are you commenting on a video to show you how to do it?
@@lemonlad982 Because unskilled people are watching this video to see how to do it themselves to save money - and it's wrong
Agreed in principle, but I believe that tap is a Pegler with an integrated double-check valve.
Definitely would put silicone in there on the outside to seal up nice so no water go in behind.
I just heated up a small spoon and melted the pipe to fix the leak maybe Ile do the same on the other leak which a hospital glove is holding it
Is this why we attacking hospitals so I run it? 😭
This exactly what I've needed .
Never thought I would subscribe to a plumber . 😆
Nice job mate, just finishing off my level 2 plumbing, hope I get jobs like this!
Was curious to see how you got that last piece of copper piping in, I guess you just stretch the lower and top pipes apart, if there's no play i imagine you would have to do it differently.
Helped me that kidda cheers 👍
Why not use a pipe bender to get in front of the hot pipe and put the isolation valve on the vertical straight
And fix the loose kitchen tap and not let the water go all over the floor…
M8 I have a tap like that just installed. Could you tell me what kind of adapter I need to put on it. I need one that will attach to my hose end connector. Thank you in advance.
Yes I'd like to know too please
Thanks for this but pretty expensive using those push fits!
How much isit to get somone out to do this and install one ?
Great job. Cheers.
Any idea how to add a hose to one of these I cant find the right thing anywhere. Clueless.
I’ve installed the tap but there’s not enough water pressure coming out for some reason, it’s weak
I believe you should’ve soldered here , because push-fits tend to fail on the long run.
You can't solder when the stop tap is passing. As a bare minimum he had to use the plastic tee. Could've soldered the rest, but the cost of the 2 plastics fittings is not really significant. Really needs a check valve though.
I would of liked to know how to work out how much copper pipe to cut to add to the push fit. I think you measure from a certain point on the push fit but i would like to see it done
Easy way to work out the x-dimensions: push some pipe in the fitting all the way and mark it off where it just comes out the fitting. Measure that mark to the end of the pipe you pushed in (let's say you measure 10mil for the fitting you're using). Now measure the entire length of the fitting and take that 10mil from the x-dimensions off twice for your new measurement (once for either end, so 20mil in total in this case). When cutting the pipe ready for insert, measure and mark off a section equivalent to the last measurement you took of the fitting with the x-dimensions into account. Cut it out and it should fit perfectly.
In the real world though, once you get doing it - being off a couple mil is fine. It's worth being timely for the sake of not being 100% exact if the work is still of good quality. Often pipes can have a fair bit of give so you'll just be able pull them a bit into place.
I don't really ever use push-fit though so I'm not sure how much stress they can be put under before the teeth inside start to fail but a soldered joint would hold absolutely fine if pulled a mil or two either way.
I hope that gives at least some explanation 🙂
@@joshuasquashua1999 thanks so much for the comprehensive explanation. Really helpful
I'd have gone out right from the cold pipe rather than left and then you're not tangling up with the hot pipework.
Well not going back now think it was 12 months ago 😆
What if your sink isn’t by the window , we have a new build and our sink isn’t by the window and have a radiator by outside wall thanks
How can someone run a washing machine flexible hose through the brickwork without even sleeving it?
nice video man! however, one question; if theres two isolation valves on the two hot and cold pipes do i put the tee above or underneath the valve. cheers
Put it below if you want to isolate to the both kitchen tap and out door tap.
Or place it above if you want to isolate the out door tap
@@masonroberts7073 cheers mate. only took 6 month to get an answer
@@liamtaylor5122 lmfao
Bit dangerous electric sockets near water
I never understand why people think silicone is so important. Yeah put it in for sanity but do people think they don't have holes in their brick work all around their house? And do they think if the one hole you made for your tap is the one that's going to make the brick work fail or allow water ingress? Reading the comments anyone would think it's a bad job just because no silicone... it's like the least important aspect 😂
Better to drill the whole through the brick
Where can I buy that tap and the plate from
Screwfix, for about £15. Get the double check valve tap.
Why not solder?
Very nice install where do you get the back plates from ?
They’re available any DIY store or plumbers merchant
@@PlumberOntheJob by
Drill sizes would be useful.
A huge one 16mm or 22mm
Here coz I need a garden tap fitted and quoted 200 pound, so looking at why so much, looking at this I hope t hg e guy I get dies a better neater job!
Imma thinkin of the conflicts countries have due to their conceitedness leading to the many disparate gauges and then promote rules based new world order. Lets get started with damn politicians by asking them to standardise all their toilets(water closet) to the garden gauge and taps and fittings and fixtures.
This is what i am thinking of doing to the mixer tap in my toilet. Garden gauges and removeable quick releases. Kitchen sink tap bottom screw-clamp i found for top bottom hand tighten sandwich.... need to hunt slowly for next round.
Not resorting to tap-and-die...
That’s no socket for the washing machine it’s plugged in on an extension wire and who has a boiler in the bathroom what would you do if it’s to hot and want to take the heating of and someone is inside doing the shit😂😂
He has a phone in one hand and plumbing in the other what is he
Forget the plumbing job .. the state of that house. How can you live in that