I never see where engine builders modify the coolant passages. Take the extra time to like extrone hone or hand port the passages. When you disassemble that motor, take thin wand style LED light camera to go deep inside around those corners and see for yourself. I think there'll be much to be gained right there along with some specialty coatings inside the built block to help with oil friction to improve cooling efficiencies.
Great video, format/concept and level of detail in the answers. That's answered a few things I've been wondering about for years (bracing, stock block & stock oil system stuff, etc.)
Thaks for addressing my questions. Where can we get then info on the comparison between ARP and RCM’s studs? And yes, insightful podcast with Harvey. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and glad that you enjoyed both episodes! The testing data of the studs was shown to me, but I don't have anything that I can pass along. Stay Tuned!
thanks for answering my question. The advice really helps. My 2015 STI is a 2k mi/year daily with occasional autox car and I've added some bracing with noticeable benefit, but didn't want to just throw the cusco parts catalog at my car and hope it was worth the weight.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question. The car is currently single AVCS. No plans to put in a paddle shift as of yet, but it has been discussed a bit. With all the other things that we need to do to the car, I think that the paddle shift will be down the list at the moment. Stay Tuned!
Pretty normal Subaru failures actually. And really not to bad. Any motor will have those failures. The Toyota 4afe will throw a rod if it’s 1/2qt low on oil. Due to over heating oil. At least with the Subaru you get wheel torque while it’s living at least.
Don’t seam weld a car unless you are a pro welder. And own a tig welder. This is not a task for the weekend warrior. I spent 3 weeks grinding crap welds out and had to re weld every seam with tig. It became very expensive and the client learned a lesson. Don’t learn to weld seam welding your car this case was a drag Camero from 1967. So It was worth saving and doing right. Inner core harbor freight welder is not the job for this. Maybe a damn good mig welder with small wire. But honestly. Tig weld it. You will have way better results. I’m saving the cage for last in my car. Hopefully this winter I will get to build my Subaru cage. After studying and researching for years on rules. And what kind of cage cert I need. I’m also a machinist and certed pipe welder, and been welding for 20 + years. Trust me that’s the last thing you want is to build a beautiful cage and have the seagulls let loose inside. My grandpa calls bad welds, looks like seagull sh.. haha
Thank you for answering our questions! This channel, along with MotoIQ have been my primary sources of all things Subaru. I am very grateful.
I never see where engine builders modify the coolant passages. Take the extra time to like extrone hone or hand port the passages. When you disassemble that motor, take thin wand style LED light camera to go deep inside around those corners and see for yourself. I think there'll be much to be gained right there along with some specialty coatings inside the built block to help with oil friction to improve cooling efficiencies.
Great video, format/concept and level of detail in the answers. That's answered a few things I've been wondering about for years (bracing, stock block & stock oil system stuff, etc.)
Excellent! Very glad that it was helpful and that you liked the format.
We are definitely going to do more of these going forward.
Stay Tuned!
Thaks for addressing my questions.
Where can we get then info on the comparison between ARP and RCM’s studs?
And yes, insightful podcast with Harvey.
Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and glad that you enjoyed both episodes!
The testing data of the studs was shown to me, but I don't have anything that I can pass along.
Stay Tuned!
Thanks Jon, super-informative as always.
thanks for answering my question. The advice really helps. My 2015 STI is a 2k mi/year daily with occasional autox car and I've added some bracing with noticeable benefit, but didn't want to just throw the cusco parts catalog at my car and hope it was worth the weight.
TiC long rod short block, that’s what I say.
That is a solid suggestion :-)
Stay Tuned and find out what we went with.
Is the PP car DAVCS or SAVCS? Yall gonna do a hydraulic paddle shifter on the sequential?
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question. The car is currently single AVCS.
No plans to put in a paddle shift as of yet, but it has been discussed a bit. With all the other things that we need to do to the car, I think that the paddle shift will be down the list at the moment.
Stay Tuned!
Pretty normal Subaru failures actually. And really not to bad. Any motor will have those failures. The Toyota 4afe will throw a rod if it’s 1/2qt low on oil. Due to over heating oil. At least with the Subaru you get wheel torque while it’s living at least.
Don’t seam weld a car unless you are a pro welder. And own a tig welder. This is not a task for the weekend warrior. I spent 3 weeks grinding crap welds out and had to re weld every seam with tig. It became very expensive and the client learned a lesson. Don’t learn to weld seam welding your car this case was a drag Camero from 1967. So It was worth saving and doing right. Inner core harbor freight welder is not the job for this. Maybe a damn good mig welder with small wire. But honestly. Tig weld it. You will have way better results. I’m saving the cage for last in my car. Hopefully this winter I will get to build my Subaru cage. After studying and researching for years on rules. And what kind of cage cert I need. I’m also a machinist and certed pipe welder, and been welding for 20 + years. Trust me that’s the last thing you want is to build a beautiful cage and have the seagulls let loose inside. My grandpa calls bad welds, looks like seagull sh.. haha