My 3 suggestions for things NOT to do in a daily Subaru from personal experience: 1) Poly front control arm rear bushings in GC/GD's. Stick with Group N or stock here, the poly bushings transmit a TON of sharp NVH. The Group-N bushing is a great compromise here. 2) Metal strut top/camber plates. It's actually solid camber plates that cause the biggest discomfort switching to Coilovers... Find one that can still use OEM style tophats to retain a somewhat decent ride (Group-N or the Offset Pedders tophats if you want some camber). 3) Poly rear diff bushings or inserts... Ugg, these can really transmit a ton of NVH into the cabin by themselves. Experienced this with both poly inserts on a BRZ and a solid mount TSSFab rear subframe on a GF8.
+1 On top of that.. if want to still maintsin/upgrades the ride and handling of a subie.. (gc/gd chassis specific mainly) 1- buy whiteline caster C comp front strut mount (group N rubber material but comes with 50% camber and 50% caster increase)*non adjustable...so camber setting still needs to be done using oem camber bolt up front 2-replace front control arm big bush (rearward bush+big pin unit) using oem forester SF5 bush.. its a direct fit.. giving anti-lift/anti-dive front suspension geometry... Benefiting braking for corner turn-in and corner exit accelerstion 3-use STI pink/silver alloy rear lateral link.. oem S204 and spec C unit comes with uniball/pillowball bushing from factory 4-oem clutch kit everytime! If want to upgrade, stick to exedy Heavy Duty plate only..with stock cover 5-stick to group engine mount and transmission mount...trans pitch mount u can use aftermarket... 6- sont go too low slamming it to the ground 🤣
@@AmirPomen I don't recommend the Whiteline top mounts over the Pedders, too many premature failure issues with the bearing. Pedders angled the bearing and haven't had the issues the Com-C does with the same amount of camber.
I used to have a Legacy GT daily driver i ruined every week i went drag racing with it.. but thats why i bought it 😉 It did pretty well for the 160k miles i put on it. I have an F150 2.7tt now and its a fun daily.
I just manual swapped my 1st gen Legacy SS. I used the Group N 5MT shifter, rear bushing and mount. That combination is very stiff and direct. But, a bearing on the driven shaft is failing, so that trans is coming out. I picked up an '04 Forester XT drivetrain. That should wake up the car a bit.
Its the Proportional valve thats the issue when swapping from rear drums to discs. The bigger master cylinder helps too, but the prop valve on rear drum cars causes the rear discs to lockup first (learned this first hand, have a video on the track of this happening). The now sadly discontinued JDM Type-RA prop valve is the solution.
It actually depends on the year, model and whether there's ABS or not. My 2001 impreza outback sport has rear drums, but the same prop valve as the 2.5rs.
@@brendancrosby2965 You are correct, but ONLY the 97-01 OBS shares the same Prop valve as the 2.5RS... There are no less than SEVEN different part numbers for prop valves for 93-01 Imprezas. The OBD prop valve may be a good option to the Type-RA valve for the rest of the models with ABS, but for the non-ABS cars its a different situation.
@@brendancrosby2965 There are two basic types. Grey for ABS and Black for non ABS. But here are several types for each of those. Basically for each oem brake setup there is specific prop valve.
Hey guys, thanks a TON for this and all the content you're publishing! With regard to E85 a quick question: do y'all recommend running an occasional tank of pump gas through the system or is it OK to run on E85 all the time after the proper mods are installed (e.g., injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc.)?
Thanks for your question! One of the guys here tries to run a tank of pump gas through his car about once a month. The idea is that there is more of a detergent effect with gasoline than E85, so it helps to keep the inlet path of the engine clean and reduces carbon deposits. I'd say if you have been doing it, and it is not an issue, stick with it. If you haven't tried running a tank of gasoline every 4 - 6 weeks yet, give it a try and see how it goes. Hope that helps, thanks for watching, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning This is exactly the info I was looking for! After re-watching this VOD, a quick follow-up question: because I'll be primarily using E85, should I be changing my oil more often (e.g., 1-2K vs. every 3K miles)?
@@paladin9933 To be absolutely sure, you would want to send out oil for analysis. But I'd say that using a good quality oil and starting to change at around 2,000 rpm would be a good start. You might be able to go to 3,000, but I'd say that it wouldn't be recommended unless you got oil analysis back to confirm that you weren't having contamination issues at that mileage.
Trying to figure out what clutch to use in my new motor build. Forged rcm bottom end , stock crank , refreshed heads with new valves and guides. Upgraded fuel
If you can, reach out to us through Live Chat on our site and we can go over options with you. The main information we need is that transmission you have, and what your power target is. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. We had a video talking just about E85 as well which may help: ruclips.net/video/BWAB-CCeBYo/видео.htmlsi=B0IwocmgVmgC-b4Q Flex Fuel on a Daily Driven car can be a good option if you have access to E85, but want to still be able to run pump gas etc. It can be the best of both worlds for sure. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
So if were looking at a graph, and you have HP vs Reliability, at what horsepower would they intersect? 350-400? Seems like from what ive gathered, 400hp seems like the magic number with the EJ25. But when my 2020 STI is out of warranty, my goal is to have a daily i can take to COTA on the weekends.
Thanks for the question. Honestly, on the EJ25 I'd say that the sweet spot is more around 350 whp. 400 can be done, but with reliability a consideration, I'd say that it would be best to reduce that goal slightly. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
If you have more than 400 hp in your daily Subaru you will never use it. 400 hp and 450ft lbs of torque and litterally I can never open it up. Next motor for my daily will probably just be a stock 2.5 short block and try to get 100,000 miles before I pull it out again. Is rather have a race motor and clutch on stand by ready to go in.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. That is a great point. When you really get down to it, it can make a lot of sense to focus on reliability over power. Over time, that can be more rewarding. Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks a lot, never knew this existed. Also, do you know of any front lsd options for the 2021 wrx, other than the clutch style lsd’s?
@@tevvsix4321 No, not at this time. Based on the lack of aftermarket support for that transmission, I don't know how quickly other diff options will be available for that platform.
Thanks for your question. Yes, here is the link to our site: www.flatironstuning.com/engine-mount-heat-shield-right-side-passenger-side Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Do not put race seats in your daily to look cool. The gd sti seats are a good upgrade I have them in my 85 rx turbo sedan. Along with the rest of the motor and trans from the 06 sti. They are the best daily race seats you can find.
I dont see the point in Coil-overs over traditional Struts (which are still coil-overs) for a Daily or street car unless you into illegal street racing. Given the SAME Adjustment and settings and height Coil-overs or traditional struts handle exactly the same, Only upside to coil over is adjustability. Its also pointless having adjustable suspension when everytime you adjust it more than few mm's you need entire new wheel alignment so most people never adjust them.
My 3 suggestions for things NOT to do in a daily Subaru from personal experience:
1) Poly front control arm rear bushings in GC/GD's. Stick with Group N or stock here, the poly bushings transmit a TON of sharp NVH. The Group-N bushing is a great compromise here.
2) Metal strut top/camber plates. It's actually solid camber plates that cause the biggest discomfort switching to Coilovers... Find one that can still use OEM style tophats to retain a somewhat decent ride (Group-N or the Offset Pedders tophats if you want some camber).
3) Poly rear diff bushings or inserts... Ugg, these can really transmit a ton of NVH into the cabin by themselves. Experienced this with both poly inserts on a BRZ and a solid mount TSSFab rear subframe on a GF8.
+1
On top of that.. if want to still maintsin/upgrades the ride and handling of a subie..
(gc/gd chassis specific mainly)
1- buy whiteline caster C comp front strut mount (group N rubber material but comes with 50% camber and 50% caster increase)*non adjustable...so camber setting still needs to be done using oem camber bolt up front
2-replace front control arm big bush (rearward bush+big pin unit) using oem forester SF5 bush.. its a direct fit.. giving anti-lift/anti-dive front suspension geometry... Benefiting braking for corner turn-in and corner exit accelerstion
3-use STI pink/silver alloy rear lateral link.. oem S204 and spec C unit comes with uniball/pillowball bushing from factory
4-oem clutch kit everytime! If want to upgrade, stick to exedy Heavy Duty plate only..with stock cover
5-stick to group engine mount and transmission mount...trans pitch mount u can use aftermarket...
6- sont go too low slamming it to the ground 🤣
@@AmirPomen I don't recommend the Whiteline top mounts over the Pedders, too many premature failure issues with the bearing. Pedders angled the bearing and haven't had the issues the Com-C does with the same amount of camber.
Agreed not for daily driving. You have to have some sort of comfort otherwise you won’t drive it because it’s so uncomfortable.
Good show. Your comments back up the good sense of the tuning shop when they talked me out of a forged piston bottom end EJ25 for a daily car.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Stay Tuned!
I love flatirons videos!! Thanks for the upload!
Thanks very much! Very glad you are enjoying the videos.
Stay Tuned!
I used to have a Legacy GT daily driver i ruined every week i went drag racing with it.. but thats why i bought it 😉
It did pretty well for the 160k miles i put on it.
I have an F150 2.7tt now and its a fun daily.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Sounds like both are fun Daily Drivers.
Stay Tuned!
AWESOME video. You guys touched on so many things that I've learned to hard way having a DD Project Car for 10 years
Very cool! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Stay Tuned!
that's a long time to complete a project..
I just manual swapped my 1st gen Legacy SS. I used the Group N 5MT shifter, rear bushing and mount. That combination is very stiff and direct. But, a bearing on the driven shaft is failing, so that trans is coming out. I picked up an '04 Forester XT drivetrain. That should wake up the car a bit.
Nice! 4.44 5-speeds can certainly be fun :-)
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Its the Proportional valve thats the issue when swapping from rear drums to discs. The bigger master cylinder helps too, but the prop valve on rear drum cars causes the rear discs to lockup first (learned this first hand, have a video on the track of this happening). The now sadly discontinued JDM Type-RA prop valve is the solution.
Excellent piece of information. Thanks for that Steve!
Stay Tuned!
It actually depends on the year, model and whether there's ABS or not. My 2001 impreza outback sport has rear drums, but the same prop valve as the 2.5rs.
@@brendancrosby2965 You are correct, but ONLY the 97-01 OBS shares the same Prop valve as the 2.5RS... There are no less than SEVEN different part numbers for prop valves for 93-01 Imprezas. The OBD prop valve may be a good option to the Type-RA valve for the rest of the models with ABS, but for the non-ABS cars its a different situation.
@@brendancrosby2965 There are two basic types. Grey for ABS and Black for non ABS. But here are several types for each of those. Basically for each oem brake setup there is specific prop valve.
Hey guys, thanks a TON for this and all the content you're publishing!
With regard to E85 a quick question: do y'all recommend running an occasional tank of pump gas through the system or is it OK to run on E85 all the time after the proper mods are installed (e.g., injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc.)?
Thanks for your question! One of the guys here tries to run a tank of pump gas through his car about once a month. The idea is that there is more of a detergent effect with gasoline than E85, so it helps to keep the inlet path of the engine clean and reduces carbon deposits.
I'd say if you have been doing it, and it is not an issue, stick with it. If you haven't tried running a tank of gasoline every 4 - 6 weeks yet, give it a try and see how it goes.
Hope that helps, thanks for watching, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning This is exactly the info I was looking for! After re-watching this VOD, a quick follow-up question: because I'll be primarily using E85, should I be changing my oil more often (e.g., 1-2K vs. every 3K miles)?
@@paladin9933 To be absolutely sure, you would want to send out oil for analysis. But I'd say that using a good quality oil and starting to change at around 2,000 rpm would be a good start. You might be able to go to 3,000, but I'd say that it wouldn't be recommended unless you got oil analysis back to confirm that you weren't having contamination issues at that mileage.
Trying to figure out what clutch to use in my new motor build. Forged rcm bottom end , stock crank , refreshed heads with new valves and guides. Upgraded fuel
If you can, reach out to us through Live Chat on our site and we can go over options with you.
The main information we need is that transmission you have, and what your power target is.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning stock 02 wrx trans. It’s my daily that I do spirited drives in occasionally.
Exedy stage 2 kit
I put a blotch 16gxt on my daily and it's amazing so glad I didn't go with a 20g or bigger
The Blouch 16G-XT is a good turbo for sure. Glad you like it!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks!
Absolutely! Thanks for your support and glad that you enjoyed the video!
Hey guys, when your on the topic in the video, about e85.. what about a flex fuel kit.?
Thanks for your question. We had a video talking just about E85 as well which may help:
ruclips.net/video/BWAB-CCeBYo/видео.htmlsi=B0IwocmgVmgC-b4Q
Flex Fuel on a Daily Driven car can be a good option if you have access to E85, but want to still be able to run pump gas etc. It can be the best of both worlds for sure.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
So if were looking at a graph, and you have HP vs Reliability, at what horsepower would they intersect? 350-400? Seems like from what ive gathered, 400hp seems like the magic number with the EJ25. But when my 2020 STI is out of warranty, my goal is to have a daily i can take to COTA on the weekends.
Thanks for the question. Honestly, on the EJ25 I'd say that the sweet spot is more around 350 whp. 400 can be done, but with reliability a consideration, I'd say that it would be best to reduce that goal slightly.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
bagged dailies are fine. a lil airbrake antifreeze and away you go. just dont park laid out in freezing weather :D
Yep, there are a decent number of folks that are Daily Driving on bags here, and they seem to do all right.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
If you have more than 400 hp in your daily Subaru you will never use it. 400 hp and 450ft lbs of torque and litterally I can never open it up. Next motor for my daily will probably just be a stock 2.5 short block and try to get 100,000 miles before I pull it out again. Is rather have a race motor and clutch on stand by ready to go in.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
That is a great point. When you really get down to it, it can make a lot of sense to focus on reliability over power. Over time, that can be more rewarding.
Stay Tuned!
I Know someone who complained about the low gas mileage in his WRX but then said he wanted to convert to E-85, I just laughed
Always love these kind of talks 🫶🏻🤘🏻
Thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
What company makes a direct linkage kit for the 2015+ wrx? I would love be to know
That is Dark Matter X:
www.youtube.com/@DarkMatterXLLC
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks a lot, never knew this existed. Also, do you know of any front lsd options for the 2021 wrx, other than the clutch style lsd’s?
@@tevvsix4321 No, not at this time. Based on the lack of aftermarket support for that transmission, I don't know how quickly other diff options will be available for that platform.
@22:37 did this ever make it to the website? Which article? I would love to read
Thanks for your question. Yes, here is the link to our site:
www.flatironstuning.com/engine-mount-heat-shield-right-side-passenger-side
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Do not put race seats in your daily to look cool. The gd sti seats are a good upgrade I have them in my 85 rx turbo sedan. Along with the rest of the motor and trans from the 06 sti. They are the best daily race seats you can find.
I put in Recaro Japan SR7 seats in my VA STI. So much better.
Great video 👍
Thanks very much!
Stay Tuned!
I dont see the point in Coil-overs over traditional Struts (which are still coil-overs) for a Daily or street car unless you into illegal street racing.
Given the SAME Adjustment and settings and height Coil-overs or traditional struts handle exactly the same, Only upside to coil over is adjustability.
Its also pointless having adjustable suspension when everytime you adjust it more than few mm's you need entire new wheel alignment so most people never adjust them.
Is the VF34 a god turbo a god turbo for a ej205? Want wil rpm spoll and an potentially hp be?
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks very much!