Synchronising the starter valves on 6th-generation VFR800
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2011
- This video shows how to synchronise the starter valves on a 2002-2009 VFR800.
When the MAP sensor is reconnected after the job is complete, the idle speed may need to be adjusted upwards slightly.
Also note that the specified intake vacuum at idle for the 2002-2009 VFR800 is 150-250mm Hg; the readings of 200mm Hg on my bike put it bang in the middle of the recommendation. Not bad for 140,000 kilometres! 
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Great tutorial, and the best part is you survived, and didn't gas yourself by running your bike inside a closed garage.
Thank you, just thank you... I watched your video many times before I decided to take the plunge and I sync'd my starter valves yesterday. What a difference it has made! I used a Morgan Carbtune but the principle is the same but getting the hoses on & off that 4 way vacuum hose thingy was a ball ache! Would have never attempted it without this, so again, THANK YOU!
i just want to thank you for this video! I had SOOO much problems with my VFR800 starting cold and running rough when cold. NEVER i would i thing of this "flaper valve vacum hose" that was aperently loose ! Cylinder 2 was colder than the rest and i could not find error. Your video saved me !! THANK YOU!!! you got subscriber ! and i am watching all your videos !
Very clear explanations of how this job is done. Thanks.
Good for all to know this difference between model years... thx for confirming!
Thank's mate, good video. I'm to friggin old to do that sort of stuff, but good to know when I take it to the shop (No, not a Honda Stealership). A lot of forums talk about getting this done, now I know.
Exhaust note sounds awesome.
Bloody awesome, concise and to the point, like your style
I'm no expert - and these videos are now 11 years old - but I do get frustrated with people who waffle on when it's supposedly instructional.
Thumbs up for doing such informative videos!
Excellent walk through.
Great vid mate. Thank you for making it, explaining it clearly and precisely and finally sharing it with us!
i know Im randomly asking but does someone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Jesse Steven instablaster =)
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Thank you so much you really help me out !
@Jesse Steven glad I could help :D
Hey man great vid thanks for the share. I will say that is one dirty air box, there is all kinds of crap in there!
The 2002 onwards bikes do not use the uneven vacuum readings. All intakes need to be within 20mm Hg of cylinder #4 on these model bikes.
Kal, thanks for another clear explanation without extra fluff, straight to the point. Can I ask you this: My Gen 6 will idle normally, meaning that the starter valves are functioning normally, can I then assume that my injectors are also functioning normally ? and that the reason as soon as I twist the throttle, even minutely, (on the stand in neutral), the engine dies, is NOT related to blocked injectors, but some other item in the fuel delivery chain.
Where can I get the brass fittings that go into the vacuum lines? I have to sync my starter valves and I would love something permanent like that.
I need your help . On my 04 vfr , that bike has done 54000 kms , I decided to change the cam chain a cam tensioner , I changed them to new and set the timing perfectly as per manual , but not the left front cylinder is misfiring a bit .. can you help me out with some guidance .. what can be potential reason
'06 Gen 6 VFR 800i , I'm trying to find a problem that just when i crack the throttle off idle i'm getting a popping sound from somewhere in the throttle body. I've stripped it all down to check the sync but havnt started it yet trying to make sure i'm good to go so i'm watching videos on how to do it. Just wondering if its something anyone here has heard before, it seems to create a minor stumble also.
Could be the starter valves or possibly your fast idle wax unit isn't adjusted far out enough. A good way to test is to crack the throttle a tiny (and I mean *tiny*) bit the next time you try a cold start. If the bike fires right up with a slightly open throttle it means the bike wants more air.
When the bike eventually starts cold - does it hold a high idle (above 1,500rpm) or does it want to stall until it warms up?
The best thing I found to hold the take up and is more stable is a plastic spray squeegee for an automobile.
@Auspanyol Eh? Where do you have it connected if it's not via the 5-way?
one question on a 1998 honda vfr 800cc is fuel injection,yes or no and yes way it has a trottle cable advise please thanks
Hey Kal. Nice that there is someone like you to help out rookies like me. I just bought the Carbtune device, and is about to do my first injection sync on my VFR 800 VTEC. Is the starter valve sync the ONLY thing I need two do in regards to the syncronization of my throttle bodies?
Salve, scusa un informazione, come riferimento sincronizzazione devo prendere cilindro numero 1? Qual'è il cilindro numero 1? Dove si trova? Anteriori dx o sx? Posteriore dx o sx ? Ultima cosa gentilmente i manometri a quanto devono stare, ho una Honda VFR VTEC 800 del 2002, Puoi aiutarmi per favore? 🙏 Grazie mille distinti saluti
Mileage changes won't be caused by starter valves being out of sync. At most they affect driveability from a closed throttle. Since your bike is a 2002, I'd check your Fuel Pressure Regulator for leaks, as it's happened to quite a few bikes from that era.
Hey Kal... Auspanyol here... the Worskshop Manual says nothing about unplugging the MAP Sensor electrical connector... I didn't and got excellent results... either way the thing is no longer connected to the starter valves via the 5-way vaccum-line connector so it isn't receiving and info vía that tube...
Good video. It's almost identical to the ST1300. I noticed the inside of your air box seemed dirty, perhaps it's not sealed up?
Very informative tutorial. Thank you. If I understood you correctly you left the flapper valve as OEM. Can you explain why please?
it's only functions really is to decrease noise at light throttle/low rpm, all disconnecting does is basically make the induction noise louder.
@Rangerscott69 Yeah, I actually don't have any of those, believe it or not!
Thanks for doing a great job with this video. I am about to do a sync on the ST1300,,, and I recognise that the throttle bodies are almost the same,,, just turned 90 degrees. I am just curious,, about the mentioned "flapper valve". It looks like a mod, that might be particular to VFR's ? What is the concept there ?? cheers,, Alan
Hi Alan. The flapper valve is on top of the airbox and - depending who you ask - opens and closes to change the length of the intake to alter the air pulses and give a small boost to low speed torque, or it's to control noise at low rpms. I can say that if you remove the rubber snorkel going to the airbox it has a crazy loud intake sound, and since the flapper valve side doesn't have a snorkel it's probably for noise control. My opinions on this have changed over the years as I've learned more about engine tuning.
hey man I did the pair valve flapper and snorkel mod and now my bike takes about 20 seconds to start on cold. and it's random sometimes when cold it will start right back up. I reconnected the pair valve cause I thought that was the only thing it could be
Probably unrelated to the changes you made. Lots of reasons for a hard cold start, but perhaps you forgot to reconnect something? Always worth double checking your work.
Do I plug the MAF vacuum
The 98-01 Service Manual states to set #3 20 mmhg lower than #1 and set the #4 10 mmhg lower than #1, then confirm idle speed still 1200 rpm +/- 100rpm. Did you not do this for some reason? Did it really change to all at same vacuum from my generation to yours? Better check!
I haven't pulled off that airbox from my 5th gen VFR800 yet, it has about 21k km on it.
Does a 5th gen have this same stuff? Should I be looking towards same adjustment? It idles at around 1200.
Yes the 5th gen also has the synchronisation however it may be a little easier to adjust. I think the adjustment knobs are on the side of the throttle body.
KaldekBoch i have the same exact gauges now, but one seems to have questionable adjustment. I might have to add some Teflon tape on the threads I think. Also the knobs on the bike are a pain to get to, especially the front one...
Thank you for this video Kaldek. But what if a previous owner did change the number 4 starter valve? The number 4 can be adjusted the same way as the others. How would you set the number 4 back to the factory setting? I have searched and searched for this information. After doing the synch, I now have surging at SLOW speed and there is a small hesitation just before the vtec engages. This is a 2007 VFR. Please help.
Jeffrey
It's non adjustable if you look closely. I mean, sure, you could *really* go at it and force it to be adjusted. But regardless, all you need is a starting point that doesn't have so much adjustment in it that the idle speed adjuster plate isn't useless. It would only add a bit of fiddling, maybe an hour or more of work.
@@KaldekBoch Okay. Thank you.
The idle screw is difficult to move, is that precisely because the bike needs to warm up so that the idle wax unit loosens enough to allow idle adjustment from the idle screw?
how difficult? I'd never say they were easy to adjust even when new
I think I've got it working now. Upon my second attempt at synching the starter valve, I removed the right fairing and was able to the idle screw. The problem was that the bracket that holds the idle knob was pushed in; I bent the bracket forward for easier access.
Thank you again for posting the video (and the others) my second attempt went much better, the dials are lined up perfect and the bike sounds crisp.
All good that for your vid
It was years ago, but pretty sure I adjusted these when the engine was hot, yes.
Hi Mate, this may be a dumb question but can you explain why you needed to synchronise the starter valves? i just want to know the symptoms in case if this happens to me. i am learning hence the question. i have 2004 VFR800.
Vishwesh Soni honestly it's just for a stable idle.
thanks for the quick reply. i should have watched the other video first. subscribed
Sorry to bother you again but in your video, the FI light is flashing a code. On my bike the FI light stays lit and never flashes. After putting everything thing back the FI light goes off when the engine is started but does not flash an error code. What does that mean?
I'll take a guess (since the video is so old) that it's flashing the error code for the MAP sensor being disconnected, or perhaps the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. The error codes on these bikes generally only flash for active errors. Which means if it doesn't flash a code you've connected everything properly.
Great video. I've recently had an issue with my 2002 where there is a popping noise from one exhaust while at idle, and my MPG dropped to 28. Could this be caused by the starter valves being out of sync?
mine had poor mpg, turned out to be a stuck open thermostat never letting the engine get hot enough for closed loop operation as well as causing the automatic cold start unit to stay ON
I want to know if you put a cap on the map sensor hose
Assuming you mean "did I close up any vacuum leaks that would cause all this effort to be wasted", yes. I also unplugged the MAP sensor which forces the ECU to go into Alpha-N mode and not try to measure fuel based on air pressure. That's necessary so the engine doesn't stall.
Are the throttle butterfly valves balanced or are they fixed on these?
I understand why honda made the idle speed adjuster/ fast idle work like this rather than the traditional adjustable throttle stop, it is so that the throttle position sensor doesn't need adjusting whenever the idle speed is altered but why four individual valves? once the main throttle body assembly is balanced a single air bleed valve would have sufficed.
I'm assuming that you would need to temporarily blank each of the four fast idle valve pipes before balancing the throttle bodies, which presumably would choke the engine of air meaning you then need to either adjust the fixed stop on the linkage or shim it somehow to get the bike to idle (so as not to disturb the factory setting and throttle position sensor)
I feel it would be beneficial to balance the butterfly valves first THEN balance the fast idle valve, i've seen plenty of people balance the idle valves but noone balancing the actual throttle linkage/ butterflies.
They're fixed. Essentially that's the reason for the balancing of the starter valves - to take care of any inconsistencies in the butterflies.
I've got a 2000-2001 5th gen, it has equal height velocity stacks and thinner crossed over down pipes and cat like the Mk6.
Early Mk5 had unequal length velocity stacks, larger diameter downpipes that don't cross over and no cat?
The Mk5 manual says to adjust starter valves with unequal values, instead of flat like the Mk6.
Should I be balancing like a Mk5 or mk6?
I've currently got it balanced like an early mk5 because it kept stalling, it runs better but idle is a little uneven kind of pulsing woomp woomp woomp rather than a nice steady idle.
Where did you get those dials? How much do they cost each?
omfgwtfbbq90 it was just a set of carb balancer gauges from eBay.
@ 5:00 what is disconnected? I played it 5 times but I still didn't get it.
It doesn't actually sound like he's saying MAP sensor, but I think that is what he is referring to.
Don’t quote me but I’m fairly sure it’s maf as in mass air flow
hi mate, still got the vfr?
Luckily didn't have to remove airbox to adjust on the 5th gen with a digisync
not going to to tell you how to the lift the tank, then you do, good start lol.
Could be the starter valves or possibly your fast idle wax unit isn't adjusted far out enough. A good way to test is to crack the throttle a tiny (and I mean *tiny*) bit the next time you try a cold start. If the bike fires right up with a slightly open throttle it means the bike wants more air.
When the bike eventually starts cold - does it hold a high idle (above 1,500rpm) or does it want to stall until it warms up?