Hey I’m working on one similar engine changed no battery missing capacitor . I’m going to check engine stator if good I’m getting hooking up a Briggs regulator then installing a smaller 12 volt battery to system. The regulator needs a 12 volt current to regulator to complete a circuit. Then of course a good ground. This should be capable of supplying enough current to operate PTO blade.
You can always check the draw from the PTO with an ammeter to see what it is drawing. By powering off the battery it should have more than enough to cover it. Just make sure it's enough to run the PTO AND charge the battery. Good Luck!
Glad i found this. I'm currently going through the same issue. I have a Scag 48 non battery. Mower starts up but then I engage the PTO, the blades won't run. Clutch tests fine. I actually connected the clutch to a 12v battery and the blades spun. PTO switch is good. I'm thinking that the regulator isn't sending enough voltage to the clutch .
I'm pulling mine apart now--not getting proper voltage through the R/R. Going to check the raw voltage hitting it. Before now I've been "jumping" my clutch to get it started with a wire directly from the output of the r/r to the lead hot to the clutch. Wouldn't work yesterday and I got the voltmeter out and found no more than 3.x volts anywhere past the r/r. Methinks there should be more. Mine is a Scag with Kolhler CP 15.
Craig Timmons you know im going to try that tomorrow with a new connection. Best to try the simple stuff first. I hope you’re right, the condensor is 100-140 bucks!! What have I got to lose? Thanks!!
Testing proved a bad connection probably caused the burnt wire. When I started it up last weekend it started making a heck of a squealing noise and the wires got hot again. Turns out the magnets in the flywheel let go and took out the stator causing the shorting. Good thing it started squealing or I would've fried more stuff!
Kenny that’s a rough one. Can you use a voltage regulator for a 15 amp Kohler which costs like $15 on amazon in place of the $200 regulator? Could something with the clutch and or capacitor be causing a more than normal load causing the wire to melt in that terminal ?
Ralph, the Kohler type rectifiers are made to charge a battery. This system is used to power a PTO, with a capacitor to handle the spikes like Zombie wrote. Im going to take Craigs advice and just make a new fresh connection and hope for the best! Thanks for everyone’s support!
If voltages check good, then power is rectified. So a failure under load leans toward a dropped connection or loss of capacity....check the capacitor (remove the resister if one exists) if good, test the resistor.
Have not worked with that system. The cap/condenser is there to handle the surge current when the clutch is engaged. Replace it, they are not solid state and go bad with age. Should be way cheaper than the regulator. I don't know what the surge current is when the clutch is first engaged , maybe you know what the PTO's on lawn tractors are fused with. The die on reverse has me baffled. Maybe there is a switch to disengage the pto when reversing and its causing a short.
Zombie Engines, why would the stator wire connection fry then? The cap isnt shorted out. The stator is rated at 13 amp, the regulator 14.4 and the fused link is 15amp. If I had the Mfd rating on the cap I would verify it
@@KensSmallEngineRepair i suggested the cap mainly because i figured it would/should be cheap but i was wrong on that one. a cap can stop working without shorting given the outrageous prices on these parts i might convert it to use a lawn tractor battery and regulator
I'm working on a scag with a 19hp kawasaki non battery, non voltage regulator. I replaced the slator but pto clutch still will not engage. Any help would be appreciated.
I think it was just the air gap on the clutch, took off the clutch because one side was impossible to get to,adjusting the air gap on all three adjustments put it back on and it's been working so far.
Dragon Rider i wanted to replace it but the owner didn’t want to spend the money. This particular Scag also needed a transmission. I thought it was worth fixing and I still might as the owner left the unit here. It’s been 18 months! He has multiple units so I guess he just gave up on this one which is over 20 yrs old. I still prefer manual PTO Sachs. Less to break down.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I mainly work on Exmarks and Lescos, older ones have a similar problem. Here is what I think the problem is/was. You had a clue there when he told you that if he jiggles the wire, some times the PTO would work. A loose connection or a wire that is broken, but sill making contact at times. The second clue is that the connector is burnt, arcing cause by the loose connection. Easy fix. Replace the connector, a pig tail can be had at Radio Shack, NAPA or even on line. Me, I just use either bullet or spade connectors, problem solved. Now that being said, with it sitting out in the weather for the last year, there might be other problems now. You can always come over to Lawnsite and ask here when you have a problem if you are not a member already.... www.lawnsite.com/forums/mechanic-and-repair.35/ Good Luck
@@dragonrider93 i did replace all the connections with new and retested with the same results, engine would shut down. It then started making a noise under the flywheel which is how I discovered s problem with the stator after further investigation. I’ve used your site before to investigate small engine issues. It has been helpful. Thanks for the invite
is the kill wire disconnected? Is the coil right side up? Have you checked resistance readings on the coil to make sure it is good? Remember NEW means Never Ever Worked!
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Hey I’m working on one similar engine changed no battery missing capacitor . I’m going to check engine stator if good I’m getting hooking up a Briggs regulator then installing a smaller 12 volt battery to system. The regulator needs a 12 volt current to regulator to complete a circuit. Then of course a good ground. This should be capable of supplying enough current to operate PTO blade.
You can always check the draw from the PTO with an ammeter to see what it is drawing. By powering off the battery it should have more than enough to cover it. Just make sure it's enough to run the PTO AND charge the battery. Good Luck!
Glad i found this. I'm currently going through the same issue. I have a Scag 48 non battery. Mower starts up but then I engage the PTO, the blades won't run.
Clutch tests fine. I actually connected the clutch to a 12v battery and the blades spun. PTO switch is good. I'm thinking that the regulator isn't sending enough voltage to the clutch .
Let me know how you make out
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Ended up being a bad regulator. Ordered one through Amazon and it works.. Surprisingly now a month later, the clutch went.
Arthur Jolicoeur it’s always something!!
Couldn't tell you what's wrong but some machine, hope we can stay friends 🏴👍
Nice job with welding mate couldn't say what's wrong with it myself. First time I ever looked at one these is on Your video.✌👍
I'm pulling mine apart now--not getting proper voltage through the R/R. Going to check the raw voltage hitting it. Before now I've been "jumping" my clutch to get it started with a wire directly from the output of the r/r to the lead hot to the clutch. Wouldn't work yesterday and I got the voltmeter out and found no more than 3.x volts anywhere past the r/r. Methinks there should be more. Mine is a Scag with Kolhler CP 15.
Check the crimp on the wire end may be just a loose or bad or crimp connection
Craig Timmons you know im going to try that tomorrow with a new connection. Best to try the simple stuff first. I hope you’re right, the condensor is 100-140 bucks!! What have I got to lose? Thanks!!
Testing proved a bad connection probably caused the burnt wire. When I started it up last weekend it started making a heck of a squealing noise and the wires got hot again. Turns out the magnets in the flywheel let go and took out the stator causing the shorting. Good thing it started squealing or I would've fried more stuff!
Kenny that’s a rough one. Can you use a voltage regulator for a 15 amp Kohler which costs like $15 on amazon in place of the $200 regulator? Could something with the clutch and or capacitor be causing a more than normal load causing the wire to melt in that terminal ?
Ralph, the Kohler type rectifiers are made to charge a battery. This system is used to power a PTO, with a capacitor to handle the spikes like Zombie wrote. Im going to take Craigs advice and just make a new fresh connection and hope for the best! Thanks for everyone’s support!
Got yah. I hope it works , can’t wait to see the follow up. Nice work..
If voltages check good, then power is rectified. So a failure under load leans toward a dropped connection or loss of capacity....check the capacitor (remove the resister if one exists) if good, test the resistor.
Have not worked with that system.
The cap/condenser is there to handle the surge current when the clutch is engaged. Replace it, they are not solid state and go bad with age. Should be way cheaper than the regulator. I don't know what the surge current is when the clutch is first engaged , maybe you know what the PTO's on lawn tractors are fused with.
The die on reverse has me baffled. Maybe there is a switch to disengage the pto when reversing and its causing a short.
Zombie Engines, why would the stator wire connection fry then? The cap isnt shorted out. The stator is rated at 13 amp, the regulator 14.4 and the fused link is 15amp. If I had the Mfd rating on the cap I would verify it
@@KensSmallEngineRepair i suggested the cap mainly because i figured it would/should be cheap but i was wrong on that one. a cap can stop working without shorting
given the outrageous prices on these parts i might convert it to use a lawn tractor battery and regulator
Zombie I appreciate any and all suggestions, oh I also subscribed to your channel.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair thanks for the sub
I'm working on a scag with a 19hp kawasaki non battery, non voltage regulator. I replaced the slator but pto clutch still will not engage. Any help would be appreciated.
Have you looked at the wiring diagram?
I think it was just the air gap on the clutch, took off the clutch because one side was impossible to get to,adjusting the air gap on all three adjustments put it back on and it's been working so far.
@@williamgarner2994 fantastic!
Did you ever figure out what the problem was/is ?
I isolated the PTO and it was ok. There was an internal short in one of the AC windings in the stator.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair So you replaced the stator and that cured the problem ?
Dragon Rider i wanted to replace it but the owner didn’t want to spend the money. This particular Scag also needed a transmission. I thought it was worth fixing and I still might as the owner left the unit here. It’s been 18 months! He has multiple units so I guess he just gave up on this one which is over 20 yrs old. I still prefer manual PTO Sachs. Less to break down.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I mainly work on Exmarks and Lescos, older ones have a similar problem. Here is what I think the problem is/was. You had a clue there when he told you that if he jiggles the wire, some times the PTO would work. A loose connection or a wire that is broken, but sill making contact at times. The second clue is that the connector is burnt, arcing cause by the loose connection. Easy fix. Replace the connector, a pig tail can be had at Radio Shack, NAPA or even on line. Me, I just use either bullet or spade connectors, problem solved.
Now that being said, with it sitting out in the weather for the last year, there might be other problems now.
You can always come over to Lawnsite and ask here when you have a problem if you are not a member already....
www.lawnsite.com/forums/mechanic-and-repair.35/
Good Luck
@@dragonrider93 i did replace all the connections with new and retested with the same results, engine would shut down. It then started making a noise under the flywheel which is how I discovered s problem with the stator after further investigation. I’ve used your site before to investigate small engine issues. It has been helpful. Thanks for the invite
I have a Kawasaki but I can’t get spark even with new coil
is the kill wire disconnected? Is the coil right side up? Have you checked resistance readings on the coil to make sure it is good? Remember NEW means Never Ever Worked!
Stator seems bad, probably a short somewhere
The owner pretty much abandoned it as the trans is shot and it needs belts and tires