Even though the brake booster amplifies your effort to stop, keeping the geometry is the best route. Consider the master cylinder’s design. Each reservoir has two holes drilled in it. One bleeds fluid back and other keeps the piston full. If the master, booster and pedal did not go back far enough, you would not be able to bleed except on the bench vise, plus a loss of pedal feel. Sure, you could go up 1” or 7/8”, drill a new pin hole for the clevis and gain mechanical advantage but the trade off is less movement. I would guess the 66 is close to the 67 I have, but using the factory 4 studs, bracket changes the angle but height of direct booster push rod operation correcting the addition of a brake booster to a vehicle that did not come with more than a single bowl master cylinder. Anyone adding horse power or more go! Needs to think about the parts that make it Whoa! Enjoying the video ride! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Hey Levi, or anyone else reading this comment, I noticed a pair of channel Locks with red handles at the 58:57 timeframe. Can you tell me who those are made by? I have never seen them until now, and this video is two years old. I appreciate any input, on that. Thank you! Awesome videos! The depth that you go, into showing us what you're doing, is the absolute best on RUclips! By far... I have learned more about process then watching any other shop.
you prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Krew Anakin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
That’s 7/8th’s of an inch. Right on the money. It takes a detailed person with maybe a little bit of ocd & a perfectionist type of personality lol. Not a bad thing at all.
@Chris Ellis >You bring up a good point, but unless you work on these everyday, and are completely familiar on the swinging pedal assembly on the 66 and older, you don’t know. You can take it apart to find out exactly how it made but it takes a little more time. Since it not used, who cares unless you want to sell it or re-use. I have a 67 C10, is it exactly the same? I don’t know but I too are installing an OD automatic. My concern was melting a Teflon bushing while welding the pedal tab onto the shaft. For that reason, yes I would have taken it apart to know what is behind it. I am not moving the firewall back 1 1/4” either as there is little real estate behind the dash already. But also, I have no intentions of putting a roll cage in the cab. Most do an “LS” sway move the engine forward an inch and sit a little lower. But they have custom frame and plans for serious action I would guess. So, I will have to keep watching. As a retired tech, I want mine as a daily driver, so staying on the “Pretty Side” of stock is my intentions. But I do like the question and understand why you asked it. I don’t have the coin to see “Tricks & Tips” so their no patreon for me! Hope this helps. Stay safe. DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
@@deankay4434 I had meant no disrespect, I had recently took one apart and remove the clutch pedal and was just wondering why? Plus it's been a few months ago since I made this comment LOL
@@chrisellis935 I saw the date of your comment and since you had no reply, thought I would say something. You see, as a retired tech, I have no way of knowing if you have done one last week or 300 this year. My best guess is that GM had sintered bronze bushing inside tube over shaft. I understood what we’re asking but may have not done well in explaining. I have two boys, one into 80’s cars, they other one just drives them. I am trying to work out of a tiny garage under the big house that made my wife happy. Now with the most serious lumbar issues, they are moving my stuff, thrown a lot out, put new parts, paint & supply’s and moved then into two closets. I want to use my DA sander and waist two or three hours looking for it, but my son took it home. He likes to take my SnapOn tools but doesn’t tell me, never brings them back and when he has them, just piled up. I spent 38+ years in 3 tool boxes and a roll cart, but everything in its place. He claims he can’t understand fractions or metric. Ok, but small sockets are not big. I am done, my dream of even finishing my truck is over. I will pile tools, pullers, sewing machines, new parts, supplies in the truck and set it on fire.
@@HammerFabOfficial I have to ask. Is this a truck build to use or only to stand and look good? Correct me if I'm wrong but you cant control the airflow an direction of the cold/hot air to the cabin. And if it rains the truck is faster under water than the titanic. Dont you think that the not connected panel will make annoying vibrating noises? Will this truck have power steering?
@@iznogudsurfer5911 I have not seen anymore video yet, but if they have a custom frame, taller LS valve covers and a roll cage, I don’t think they will be running to the store to buy milk and cookies! DK, ASE master, retired.
Is this a shop truck, a customer's vehicle, or is it a shop truck/SEMA build? I noticed that you stated that there was a timeline, so I'm just curious as to who this truck is being built for. Thanks, again!
Even though the brake booster amplifies your effort to stop, keeping the geometry is the best route. Consider the master cylinder’s design. Each reservoir has two holes drilled in it. One bleeds fluid back and other keeps the piston full. If the master, booster and pedal did not go back far enough, you would not be able to bleed except on the bench vise, plus a loss of pedal feel. Sure, you could go up 1” or 7/8”, drill a new pin hole for the clevis and gain mechanical advantage but the trade off is less movement. I would guess the 66 is close to the 67 I have, but using the factory 4 studs, bracket changes the angle but height of direct booster push rod operation correcting the addition of a brake booster to a vehicle that did not come with more than a single bowl master cylinder. Anyone adding horse power or more go! Needs to think about the parts that make it Whoa!
Enjoying the video ride! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Hey Levi, or anyone else reading this comment, I noticed a pair of channel Locks with red handles at the 58:57 timeframe. Can you tell me who those are made by? I have never seen them until now, and this video is two years old. I appreciate any input, on that. Thank you! Awesome videos! The depth that you go, into showing us what you're doing, is the absolute best on RUclips! By far... I have learned more about process then watching any other shop.
That is a Knipex Angled Plier Wrench.
@@alexanderkarlsson5039 Thank you very much!
Thats one slick break peddle, vacuum booster and master cylinder install !!! Lookin good ya'll !
you prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Ronin Omari instablaster ;)
@Krew Anakin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Krew Anakin It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Ronin Omari Glad I could help :D
well done. Video and workmanship.
Nice work Levi!
That’s 7/8th’s of an inch. Right on the money. It takes a detailed person with maybe a little bit of ocd & a perfectionist type of personality lol. Not a bad thing at all.
@Hammer Fab what primer are you using @46:00
Nevermind - looks like U-Pol #2 Weld Thru Primer with Copper
An idea. You should have taken the bridge apart and replaced the bushings so the brake pedal would work another 60 years without rattling.
Can you explain why you didn't just drive the clutch pedal pivot rod out? The brake has a separate pivot rod
@Chris Ellis >You bring up a good point, but unless you work on these everyday, and are completely familiar on the swinging pedal assembly on the 66 and older, you don’t know. You can take it apart to find out exactly how it made but it takes a little more time. Since it not used, who cares unless you want to sell it or re-use. I have a 67 C10, is it exactly the same? I don’t know but I too are installing an OD automatic. My concern was melting a Teflon bushing while welding the pedal tab onto the shaft. For that reason, yes I would have taken it apart to know what is behind it. I am not moving the firewall back 1 1/4” either as there is little real estate behind the dash already. But also, I have no intentions of putting a roll cage in the cab. Most do an “LS” sway move the engine forward an inch and sit a little lower. But they have custom frame and plans for serious action I would guess. So, I will have to keep watching. As a retired tech, I want mine as a daily driver, so staying on the “Pretty Side” of stock is my intentions. But I do like the question and understand why you asked it. I don’t have the coin to see “Tricks & Tips” so their no patreon for me! Hope this helps. Stay safe.
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
@@deankay4434 I had meant no disrespect, I had recently took one apart and remove the clutch pedal and was just wondering why? Plus it's been a few months ago since I made this comment LOL
@@chrisellis935 I saw the date of your comment and since you had no reply, thought I would say something. You see, as a retired tech, I have no way of knowing if you have done one last week or 300 this year. My best guess is that GM had sintered bronze bushing inside tube over shaft. I understood what we’re asking but may have not done well in explaining.
I have two boys, one into 80’s cars, they other one just drives them. I am trying to work out of a tiny garage under the big house that made my wife happy. Now with the most serious lumbar issues, they are moving my stuff, thrown a lot out, put new parts, paint & supply’s and moved then into two closets. I want to use my DA sander and waist two or three hours looking for it, but my son took it home. He likes to take my SnapOn tools but doesn’t tell me, never brings them back and when he has them, just piled up. I spent 38+ years in 3 tool boxes and a roll cart, but everything in its place. He claims he can’t understand fractions or metric. Ok, but small sockets are not big. I am done, my dream of even finishing my truck is over. I will pile tools, pullers, sewing machines, new parts, supplies in the truck and set it on fire.
Why dont you weld the Cabin airbox to the firewall?
Because it would leave a really ugly pucker on the outside of the firewall which would require more body work than desired.
@@HammerFabOfficial I have to ask. Is this a truck build to use or only to stand and look good? Correct me if I'm wrong but you cant control the airflow an direction of the cold/hot air to the cabin. And if it rains the truck is faster under water than the titanic. Dont you think that the not connected panel will make annoying vibrating noises? Will this truck have power steering?
@@iznogudsurfer5911 keep paying attention, youll see. 🙄
@@iznogudsurfer5911 I have not seen anymore video yet, but if they have a custom frame, taller LS valve covers and a roll cage, I don’t think they will be running to the store to buy milk and cookies!
DK, ASE master, retired.
Is this a shop truck, a customer's vehicle, or is it a shop truck/SEMA build? I noticed that you stated that there was a timeline, so I'm just curious as to who this truck is being built for. Thanks, again!