Fixing Race Car Issues on the Street Car 4 Rotor Rx7 - It Sounds Like The 787B Lemans Car!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Its got to be Streetable to be a street car. Even if we have to sacrifice some horsepower!
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For the best driving experience, the slide throttle needs to be converted to drive by wire. A strong linear motor would have no trouble accurately setting the slide position and the ecu can map pedal posion to throttle opening. It would make low throttle drivability perfect. Also would no longer require the position sensor.
Completely agree. A BMW actuator may work too.
Also, bronze would be a better material for the slide.
That's actually really smart idea. You know, he can also write some code or make some kinda driving mode where you can choose how aggressive the throttle was or you can also adjust it to be comfort mode where it's not jerking you off if little pressure is added on to the throttle paddle.
A buddy put a rotary in his project airplane, he had used teflon for the slide and heat wouldn't affect it as much and would slide much easier.
+1
BRIDGE THE OIL PAN TANKS WITH A STAINLESS BRAIDED LINE!
So much work put into this car but it sounds so good.
Workin’ out the kinks and learning… RAD Science. Boldly going where no one has gone before. Keep up the great work Capt Kirk. Thanks to Johnny & his wife for sponsoring this street-able experiment. Keep it RAD
6000 series aluminum when hot is a tad sticky as far as metals go. perhaps it needs a few thousandths less preload on the bearings. and reading some of the other comments, i do agree that it may need some more bearings along the edge since the arm pulls off-center from the center of the slide and would make it twist enough to cause a problem. like how longer piston skirts with a friction reduction coating helps reduce piston slap
a thin gasket to seal just arround the outside perimeter will solve your issue, providing good seal yet taking off pressure. Pluse you can use different thinkes to cut the gasket from to get a tight fit yet one that does not make it stick... cool desing though!
Good work, brother. I met him at Deals Gap Rotary Rally, and he is a humble good dude. I am glad to see your channel is growing. I hope to see you on the 20th anniversary of DGRR.
the 3 sections of the slide mechanism need to be highly polished like chrome, front plate, rear plate & slide, they also need to be extremely flat to each other, this will relieve 90% of the problem you have with sticking.
Check out Russell Ingall Aussie v8 super car drive, he invented a slide throttle mechanism for his race car, it worked extremely well, it worked so well that many people have them on their personal street cars.
Thinking about it, there is so much more work getting a 4 rotor to work as a street car engine. To handle city driving, cruising, etc. And it sounds amazing as well.
If you can't get that slide setup to work, I would suggest to use the Toda Racing AP1 S2000 ITB's, they do this a lot on 4 rotor street cars in Japan.
Good luck getting it all sorted out.
Also, street driveability requires a catalytic converter. It can absolutely be done on a build of this scope.
Personally, I would abandon the slide throttle until he has an oil system that can handle the rpm. Right now, those are a waste.
The outside of the car videos sounds great. And that slides look interesting
Picklefork?
No no
Tie-rod hammer slammer thing
There we go
If you are using aluminium and stainless steel together there is always a chance of metallurgical interference, the differences in temperature conductivity of each metal wil potentially cause problems as well.
Ahh the Tubes, sounds great 😊
I'm feeling like a paper gasket, around the edge of the slide throttle to relieve the centre plate.. but thats just me going off gut
Maybe if u put some spacers inside where the screws go, to keep the clamping pressure from affecting the slide, then it might allow the slide glide freely.... I am enjoying ur Vidz, keep up the great work!!
There's a balance. If you put spacers, you will increase the gap between the slide plate. Any additional gaps will leak air past the slide and make it harder to bring back down the idle.
7:40 that's not how thermal expansion works. The aluminum won't expand into the slider's space.
Please tell me your going to deck the flange now.
The one that warped when you changed the runners and had that welded up
Large motorcycle throttle bodies with linkage instead of this giant slide which is probably being torqued down too tight to begin with....if you're looking for high temp "lube", what about powdered graphite as in what's typically used for "lubricating" throttle cables.
Otherwise, I'm thinking a delrin spacer, both above the runners, and in between the slide so it'll, slide.
I wonder if graphite powder lubricant would be better for the throttle bodies. Anyways great job on the car.
Love the sound of this thing with the ITB setup. One day i NEED at least a 3 rotor in my fc one day, your next build on the channel if someone is willing to let you build up a 3 rotor ;) Keep them rotors alive !!
I wish cops in my area of Canada weren't such dicks, my fc used to have nice 3in all the way but 98 dcbl at idle lol. Now I have 4in dp to a full RB 3in mid to the Rev II y-pipe and mufflers. Its nice and quiet but you cant hear the nice overlap anymore and no one asks me if its V8 swapped hahah
Maybe the sides of the plates are rubbing. The arm gives a moment to the plate and twists it a little to allow the sides rubbing against the housing
Thanks for sharing the information
maybe try shortening the return spring?
it should give you more resolution in the gas pedal.
IMO change the stainless slide to a teflon plastic material
So the answer is…the slide setup is not adequate for a street car..imo I would go itbs with injectors on the top of the itbs
heat shielding on the list or the headers meant to be seen?
sounds great either way
Why not use Siphon tube so it drags the oil over kinda like a washing machine draw !
What is the purpose of that baby sump on the front of the pan? Would make more sense to have a slight grade from front to rear.
What about removing the bearings using lapping paste just to lap them slightly
How’s the handling weight distribution?
That oil pan looks horrible, that front part seems so useless.
LOL, can I please come volunteer in your shop?
Wow that sump is garbage..with the $$ spent on a 4rotor to have an oil pan that’s rubbish…I ask why…
Wondering what feedback you've gotten about the background music as of late. For my two cents, I don't like it. It's distracting and not fitting the mood of your vids. Keep it RAD!
new = never even worked