I broke it... F*@K!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
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Why don’t you utilise the addition PCIe expansion bracket outlet/port and create a 3D print to hold your mini Display - it’ll solve your problem and look neat by filling in the empty slot in front of the GPU.
Don't respond to that guy, it's a fake one
@@RealBrandon but he says i win????
@@mrvolts9262 lmao if ur serious i hate u
I was just going to comment this. A simple plate with pass through holes with the same spacing as those standoffs on the back of the display, screws, and washers will hold it.
@@mrvolts9262 it’s fake don’t fall for it. that isn’t jay
That video of Louis Rossman reacting was comedy gold. Definitely worth a watch for those who haven't seen it. Actually I might just go watch it now that this video is over.
Hey Jay, love the build. I have a suggestion on your 3d printed logo. Maybe have it printed so that it is angled, say 45 degrees so it is easier seen looking in at it then down at it. Still awesome looking.
id recommend top layer ironing for something like this. would make it fairly smooth
@@aaaaaaaaaassssssssdf or play around with nozzle temp, xy speed, extrusion% and layer thickness. I had problems with some filaments but not others so he could try changing filament brand. I only use petg though, maybe it´s easier to play with settings to get petg right than others but I don´t know.
This is such a stupid hobby.
Seconding Sagi's comment about ironing
3D printer tip for you: enable "Ironing" in your slicer. It basically runs the nozzle back and forth on top surfaces to make them smooth so you don't have the layer lines on the top. I'd still sand the top surface afterwards, but the ironing makes a big difference.
This is an excellent tip, it's helped top finish on a lot of my prints. Honestly, after sanding it looks better than my glass bed 🤣
@Susanna That's an option too, but ABS then brings in a whole new world of troubles that I wouldn't recommend to someone new to the hobby. In particular, bed adhesion, warping, and vapours.
0iiì8⁸80aq111
@Susanna most tests I've seen (cnc kitchen does a very nice digestible vid on it but there's a few blog articles on it as well) shows there's very minimal strength gain to vapor smoothing unless you design it to be smoothed inside, out, and internally around the infill
@Susanna oh I gotcha my bad, I do think you're right though in that abs or asa would probably a good material for what Jay is trying to do overall
The title of this video is what I think every time I start my pc after touching literally anything inside.
Same man, the tension and stress every gpu reseat or thermal change, nvm bios flashes.. Need medication for that hah
The story of my life
The title of this video is what I was saying two nights ago when I fried my motherboard moving it into a new case...
Plebs.
lmfao I literally thought that today when I changed my cooler today I was like shit nothings coming on the monitor
Phil (I think that is who it is) laughing at you being silly is just so contagious. What a great laugh Phil.
I love Phil!
I know it's part of your personality and that is what makes you great, but man Jay, it's depressing for me when you take small digs at yourself. I have the highest respect for your knowledge, the knowledge you pass down and the entertainment you provide on nearly a daily basis. I f'ing love your channel. There's nothing cheap about it. I don't care if you were doing your videos on a rock in a mother bleeping cave in 480p, I would watch it. I don't often comment on your videos, but I watch each one from start to finish, and I often go back to old ones when I need a refresher on something. All of this is to say, in case you sometimes forget in the heat of the moment of filming a video, you have millions of fans who love and appreciate what you do. I just want to remind you of that. Have a great weekend :)
I get a feeling that is in a bad place or has no drive anymore its kind of sad, the channel doesn't feel the same lately no laughter and cameos from Nike and Phil...
I agree.
I really prefer Jayz's channel over LinusTechTips. It's so refreshing to see expensive hardware being handled appropriately and with care, rather than being rough handled and tossed around as if that were somehow funny and entertaining (at least to me it's the exact opposite).
Came here to post exactly this. You are allowed to appreciate yourself, life, and the things you like/do. You have given a LOT to people, no need to give yourself shit. Even for entertainment.
@@DjVortex-w linus drop tips ftw. Seriously tho, linus is more focused on entertainment through tech then Jay is, cos linus has a much larger channel base
@@SirPoppy I don't find mishandling and breaking expensive hardware entertaining in the least, which is why I dislike that channel so much.
i really like the super custom builds you do, really wish we saw more of that V8 block, seemed like a cool idea if you could get it going
@@edamnaf9265 same!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree too.. Sadly, he gave up due to issues he had with the quality of the mock up block he was using.
The title of this video is what I think every
time I start my pc after touching literally
anything inside.
@@edamnaf9265 I’m sorry 😢 I didn’t mean 😭
@@That_Stealth_Guy I wonder how long it would take to print his own? Although he'd probably need a bigger printer?
I keep thinking "It'll be fine Jay, don't worry so much", and then I remember he's been doing this a lot longer than I have.
jay i really love your content, because you show us the mistakes you make, and the struggle , and how you aproach a problem... not everything is roses and flowers in custom builds XD
Man I feel for you! How frustrating this build has been…. Hang in there though, you’re so close
Bud, this is amazing content. It's authentic and wholesome
See Jay I think these videos are great, they show that even someone as experienced as you can run into issues.
These are the kind of videos I love to watch from you... it makes me feel better about the stupid stuff I do. Keep up the good work Jay!
Big respect for knowledge and patience Jay.
Back when Jay started building this PC, tv’s were black and white. Damn!
Ouch!
Ad placement was god tiered lol … 6:21 … “Hold on …” … AD ! 🤣🤣
not gonna lie, I enjoyed watching Louis's reaction to the 3090 repair video far more than I should've
I appreciate the things that people go through on RUclips and then I learn what not to do sometimes. I also remember how buying five additional fans and a fan hub and I thought more fans equates to better cooling was great. Years later, it turned out to be a great misconception after watching one of Steve's videos demonstrating that more fans are not always better. When life gave me lemons, I bought more PC fans than I should have.
Yeah, flow direction is more important that pure flow numbers. I've noticed by putting vapor through my case it's moving plenty of air but creates a feedback under my GPU where it keeps recycling it's own air while there's a steady stream through my AIO in the front going straight up and out through the top and back exhaust. This was one nice thing about the old blower GPUs that exhausted out the back.
Semi-solved it by cranking the exhaust fans to create negative pressure so it pulls in air through the vented IO shields below the GPU. Downside is dust in every orifice.
@@zodwraith5745 I agree. It is pretty cool that you used water vapor to test the airflow in your setup. In terms of airflow, I am not trying to sound like an advertisement in the comments section but the Fractal Design Torrent case is a prime example of minimizing the number of fans while adjusting the flow direction in the case and requiring less fans in the process. At one point, I tried to increase the exhaust fan RPM in one of my cases and I noticed that adjusting the rear fan alone was not enough to compensate for the lack of airflow in the overall case. I also tried to brute force the GPU cooling on a terrible Zotac card I bought but then I decided to buy an Artic GPU Cooler and slap on a 120mm fan to the custom cooler with some homemade wire clips. It is the jankiest setup for a graphics card I have but the over temperature on the card has let me keep the card for at least three to five more years. It is amazing how airflow and adequate cooling can make or break a computer's performance.
@@TopHatCentury sounds interesting, can you maybe make a video of it where you show this off? :)
Never got this airflow thing quite right I'm afraid
@@GenghisJan Unfortunately, I do not currently have the means to show off airflow within any of my cases at this point and I also do not have the Fractal Design Torrent at the moment. The two cases I have currently are the Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow and the Corsair Carbide 100R. I plan to transfer my main system into the Fractal Design Torrent and use two Gen. 4 NVMe drives (one for the main OS volume and the other one for AMD's StoreMI to pair with a large WD Black HDD). If you want to see the janky graphics card setup that is complete with Arctic BioniX fans for jet turbines, I can publish it as my first video onto RUclips (hopefully without ads) at some point. Please let me know what you would like to see and I will do my best to upload the video in the future.
@@TopHatCentury yeah I'd be interested in that, also even seeing this fan-setup without you showing off how exactly the airflow "functions" might be helpful to understand the concept of it and maybe apply the same principle to other cases :)
I believe I've seen something like this done by Jay as well a while ago but seeing this applied to different cases setups might still be helpful!
I feel the pain - don't let this get you down :)
The way ARGB works, it's actually the LEDs themselves which handled the digital signal processing to determine which light color to use at each position. The LEDs have 4 pins:
5V, G, Data in, Data out.
And basically are daisy-chained together by simple traces on the PCB that link Data in to Data out.
If you wanted to wire up the legs of a WS2812b LED straight to the ARGB header, it would work. Theoretically, you could even do this with every adapter piece to make sure they worked, but we don't do that because (a) it is wasted light/heat that will interfere with cable management and (b) the 5v RGB headers have limited current output and can't run too many LEDs.
Hey Jay, just a note on the texture for the bezel. If you are like me and printed on the ender 3 or similar surface and have a rough grey (dried) look to the surface it can be fixed in a couple ways. Sorry if you already know...but I'll say anyway for others. Simplest fix is (for PLA), just take a torch lighter (what I use) and run it over the surface. It will just slightly melt the "dry" looking areas and correct the color. If you want it really flat and smooth, you can sand it first and then do the torch. If it's ABS, you can put it in a container with some Acetone in an open jar and let the fumes smooth it. Lastly, is your option to paint it, but I hate painting PLA because it tends to scratch off too easily. Also remember that heat can warp PLA, so you would want to sandwich the bezel with something that would keep it from bending.
Hey Jay, looking at it, the build you are doing is perfect. In all honesty it comes to the quality of the parts, which these issues are easily not expected.
Cant wait for the next video!
I'll know we're truly living in the future when assembling a computer involves zero interaction with pins.
Wdym?
true, now soldering is no longer a necessity unlike back then that its even taught in school
The aRGB connector on the Lian Li fans isn't proprietary. It's just a standard JST SM connector, which is quite common for addressable LEDs - just not in computers.
Oh yeah THAT connector. It’s THE aRGB connector. I didn’t like it first working on aRGB comming from RGB, but now I kind of like it.
Once you finish this thing, Jay- you should work with some company to have your own JTC case made. A dedicated custom loop chassis
Imagine Jay made the ultimate water cooling case and GamersNexus made the ultimate air cooling case.
@@dembro27 Linus makes the ultimate drop-proof case, Dave makes the ultimate blue & white case
@@dembro27 And then we get a Jay vs. Linus build contest using the same GPU, board, CPU and memory!
"Just like a lot of things I do around here." Much Love Jay, I got a great laugh
In the beginning, why didn't you just rotate the triple fan block 180⁰ "vertically" so air flow would stay the same direction and the cables would stay on the opposite corner?
Devastated to see that happen Jay! Cannot wait to see this progress to completion!
take a breather jay...itll be awesome...that build is good
PPCS is fantastic. They're physically a few hours South of my location and when I've ordered from them to ship instead of store pickup they've gotten the product out the door the same or next day depending on the time of ordering. You really can't beat that level of product management, especially with a single location store.
"That's some good block right there I if I don't do say my o for my own blocks"
🤣 I'm framing that and hanging it on my wall at work!
You can tell Jay is having a rough time lately. There is ALOT of sighing in this episode. Please Jay, Just know we love you and what you do and create. Keep being awesome man!
heat the fin board🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thank you so much for keeping it real. I know its never fake when it comes to you Jay.
You could always cut off the lianli proprietary connector and crimp on a connector that will work(i forgot the name) it’s pretty easy to crimp on new connectors as long as the wireS are in the correct order.
After having to crimp a few cables for my 3D printer it seems like it would fix the issue of proprietary connectors.
Edit: It looks like pc hardware uses Dupont connectors.
It’s actually not proprietary. They used the standard aRGB connector found outside of the PC market (Display/Stage strips)
Jay for servicing reasons if your trying to mount that screen in that location make your own U bracket or L bracket preferably a L bracket so you can use Rounded steel rod painted back cut and length easy enough with Rounded brackets roughly the same size screwed to the back of the screen so you can slide it on and off and attach one our 2 points to the right or left sode depending how you mount bracket. Will look great and professional and save time and headaches for future upgrades or servicing.
I feel like we need a "Phil montage music" playlist. The music Phil chooses for the montages is always so nice I have to stop whatever I'm doing and enjoy it. It'd be cool to hear more, too.
3D printing tips/things to try to clean up your top layers. In at least Cura you can turn on Ironing and it will rub the hot nozzle back over the top surface to try and smooth it out. Also look into extrusion multiplier calibration, NOTE: it is generally filament brand/type specific. If you use profiles for your different fillaments you can store the setting so you don't have to keep readjusting it each time. I leu of doing a full calibration if you feel that it is a little to rough you could try to just reduce it by 1-2% for that specific print and see if the appearance improves to your liking. The extrusion multiplyer can either be changed on the printer through the menu, or you can search for the setting in your slicer when setting up the print job.
I use monotonic ordering now and it looks a lot better. I would try that and see which one looks better for the model versus ironing. Personally I prefer monotonic
@@thealeas haven't tried that one yet. Most of what I print lately doesn't have large flat surfaces, so I was more trying to point out some settings to try. Thanks for adding one I didn't know about. One of these days I'll do a comparison directly.
Jay, it's super easy to make your own extension kit with a soldering iron, some cheap Amazon JST SM 3 connectors and standard 3 pin RGB connector... that is 6 x 5 seconds solders and 6 pieces of shrink tubing... I can do it in less than 3 minutes....actually i'll do a video on my channel showing to all how easy it is to do it... I feel like you plug cables together and going to mobo's pins without verifying pinout 5V, Ground, Data... you can't just wing it.
Jayz2Emo right now. Stop self doubting, enjoy what you can do!
Patience is a virtue for a reason.
You've got far more patience than me, I'd have taken it outside & run it over in my car weeks ago 😂😂
Heat the board!!!! lol, never gets old. Just dont give Louis a coronary
Lol.
Jayz speech gaffes are too funny
Don't beat yourself up Jay. Your channel is on my favorites (like thousands of others) for a reason! The only tech channels I personally watch are you and Linus. Linus for general entertainment and a chance to drool over what I can never afford and that's it. Your channel for reasonable and realistic builds, new informative information, and when you guys are clowning around, entertainment. What you do is more valuable than most others. While it may not get the hits you want, know it's worth something. Much like how the NBA gets more viewers than a live surgery broadcast. One is just for fun, the other is actually important and needed.
for smoother surface, glass plate if printing face down, or use ironing / fuzzy surface for more finished look if printing face up
I love how the editor didn't even get the quote right, that's how much of a stroke jay had lol
U need a standing rotary axial sander with buffing cones if your gonna fabricate plastic peices. Makes finishing professional
11:14 i LOVE seeing computers take their first Drink of water! 😂
Also for anyone wondering, assuming the pinout is standard, that is called a JST SM connector. I've used them in building custom LED lighting for shelves and bias lighting since I hate how standard connectors can just come undone.
The build looks very impressive. You have also convinced me to stay with aircooling and get a good air cooled case. :)
Always quality from you man your channel helped me learn how to build computers thank you
Been there, done that on many different motherboards.
In fact, this lady build took 10 months with all the headaches.
I feel your pain
for the print lines on the top, turn on ironing in cura, it will smooth out the top surface
Love the ending with Louis feedback.
I also had that problem getting enough light into my PC case. I found my solution to this problem. A headband with LCD lights. It's called Floodlight Headband, Model SH0202, USB rechargeable. Now, I have all the light I need when I'm working inside that case black hole.
Jay you can use Phanteks ARGB cables. I have my SL120's hooked up to an EK 7 port ARGB/fan controller. The phanteks part code is PH-CB-DRGB3P_MB_BP they also do double duty as a piggy back, so you can chain them together. Just don't get the part confused with the similar 3-pin Y-adapter (no "_MB_BP" on the end of the code).
Glass tube build !!!!
Bring it unless it's already broughted
I have been looking forward to you completing this build as I am thinking of upgrading to this case setup next for my i-9-12900k, so as you say sometimes shit happens, just pull out your enginuity and fix it and get-er-done :-)
this is living proof yall, i often have trouble with exotic cases, and this is pure proof that even the most experienced builders have trouble man, God bless
Damn this dude is jacked or what! That triceps is Bodybuilder level it seems! 💪😱
18:18 - I work on cars instead of computers (except my own) and this statement is exactly how "project cars" go...
I haven't looked too closeley at the fans you're using, but isn't there some way for you to disassemble the custom cable, so you can make your own cables, that are not only long enough but also not proprietary connectors, exact length, and lastly have the cable come out on the side that's more convenient for you?
Doing something like this might involve some soldering, and/or maybe even 3D printing. However, it would be a very nice DIY customization of cable management/convenience. Also it's just a cable for the fan, so worst case you can just buy new cables if it doesn't work.
The logo plate you printed would look pretty nice transparent with an led behind it.
Its not cursed yet just one of those things with new technology where nothing works properly you will get it in the end.
All these silly mistakes may seem trivial but I bet someone out there appreciates your ability to solve them with all the resources available to you.
Maybe in a few years all pc cases and power supplies will be designed this way and we will look back thinking how novel it is.
Its already looking pretty good I think it is a good call with the side lit fans, maybe flip them around so the wires are all at the front of the case it really seems like a challenge to hide them even though the case is designed to have no cables.
Made a clip of the block quote part and Phil dying in the background. This is what I’m here for lol
Get a sandable car can spray primer and spray it with a good 2-3 layers and them wet sand it with 220 then paint it. You won't see a single layer line. Building a full custom semi mini case now.
i feel your pain! even when your trying to be careful its easy to do, snapped off the PCIE latch for
gpu yesterday on new motherboard. Luckily i had installation insurance, was RMAing it, but thought what if i took the PCIE clip off my old MB which is the same butterfly latch with a razor and tweezers and behold popped it in the new one
. No more RMA, was so pissed at myself though!
"The New H1: No longer causing fires! If it does, it isn't our fault!"
learned alot from you over the years Thanks Jay
I could have told you this years ago Jay :P about the Lian Li fans, Phanteks use the same connector. Asus *AND* MSI both supply cables that do standard 3-pin argb to clip-type.
if you enable "ironing" on cura, you will get much smoother top layer of your print.
I will say that Phil has an uncanny ability to make anything look interesting on camera, even just clipping cable ties looks epic with that camera work.
I have a screen just like that for my sensor panel. I have it positioned in my 4000d using small button magnet glued to the circuit board on the back. The magnets cost $2 at Walmart and they hold it securely while still allowing me to reposition the screen in the future if I want to change things up. Plus you can't see the back so it doesn't look bad at all. It actually looks just fine, would look even better if I had a nice 3d printed shroud made for the screen like you do.
I was going to say the "RGB" header the uni fans use is also the same as the ones that Phanteks use and they sell an adapter cable to argb header. Actually plugged the Phanteks distro plate into my Lian LI box but it works
i lost it when I heard Louis Rossman saying "HEAT THE BOARD"
for the lianli fans i did the same thing with my asus b550i and the evolv shift XT so the MB control both the fans and the case with one cable it's dope, phanteks also use this connector, well at least in the evolv shift xt (and standard 3 pin)
All Phil will need to solder that pin back on is No-Clean flux core solder and a pair of tweezers (and a steady hand). Just add a small amount of solder to both the back of the pin and the power board (the side that goes back on the power board). Then warm up the power board side and gently and steadily solder the pin to the board. If you're having issues and didn't much up the board to bad, find a company that's called Electronic Design and Manufacturing company in your area and give them a call. Those people solder boards 8 hours a day and usually have mad skills. It's what I do for a living.
You have AJProtech, BRCHN and Giltronics in your area. They should be able to help you out.
I know where Jay is coming from with those ARGB female plugs.. They don't "snap" in like PWM and other plugs. So it's super easy to pull them sideways while plugged in and bend or break pins. I always unhook mine before doing anything with my boards just because you tend to pull power wires when working.
Whoa whoa whoa...the stuff you do doesn't look cheap. It all looks amazing. Don't talk like that. You do great work man.
For those print lines, might want to try Cura with the ironing setting turned on. It makes for very smooth top layers. Perfect for big flat portions like your print. The print looks like it might be overextruded as well, so maybe the flow rate could be reduced.
Jay another option - you can cut off the lian li plugs, ARGB is a standard and each led is attached to +5V constant Power, Ground (or - or 0V depending on where u are in the world), and Data. the data protocol is serial and each LED has an address based it position along the data line. the 4 position 3 pin 5V ARGB header on the motherboard is electrically the same as the JST plugs lian li use the pins are just in different positions. The lian li controller isnt necessary it does allow for advanced effects if you are not needing the ability to have effects that move between the different groups of fans you can just use a standard RGB hub (sata power in, argb from mb in) each output of the hub will start at led 0 effectively syncing all the leds. The fans are std 4 pin and can be plugged straight into mb headers.
I know the feeling. It has to look and be a specific way and sometimes I’ll lay in bed going through so many combinations in my head that I lose sleep over it. Way too much choice these days.
These scammers are relentless
easy way to mount the mini display to the GPU would be to make a small "half circle clip" system that wraps around the tube inlet/outlet above it, so it would in essence hang from those but ofc clip around it in some way
You should get a textured magnetic bed for the 3D printer. it hides the lines and leaves a nice even texture on the bottom surface.
Legitimate question: Just rotate the fans on the Y axis 180degrees, so the cable goes towards the back?
+1 I was looking for this comment
The title of this video is what I think every
time I start my pc after touching literally
anything inside 🤣
Bummer dude! Given how much of a pain it has been to get parts the last 2 years, let Phil get out the iron and fix the pin. Though I would bet that will toast the warranty, it will be worth it in the end. As a bonus we get Phil and you in front of the camera.
Your struggle sounds like mine with my 3D Printed PC Case for absolutely stupid amounts of radiators and storage. Literally every time i fix something with the printer, something else seems to go wrong
3:35 We need to stamp out misuse of the word "proprietary". It isn't a proprietary connector, it is in fact just a specific connector that is not the most widely used aRGB connector(FWIW, the most common one is a terrible connector). Corsair also uses a specific connector. They are wired to their "standard", and usually if you see that type of connector, you can pull up that standard and match the wiring.
It is unusual for anyone to use a "proprietary" connector(unless you're say, Apple). Why would you pay money to design and produce a connector? What do you gain from it?
OMG I hadn’t heard Rossman’s commentary regarding your soldering. Hilarious.
to the h1 sponsor, all i hear when you do the roll is "it doesn't catch on fire this time guys! we promise!"
The single pin on a ARGB header is just ground, so if you can't get the pin back on the board, you could just run a tiny wire from the plug to any part of the PC that is ground
The lian-li connector is called d-rgb. I bought splitters from phantek for my sl120s so i could connect 12 to 1 hub.
Flip the build plate over if it’s glass or use a piece of glass (if your Ender doesnt have a glass build plate). You will get a mirror finish if you print the face of your bezel face down. Your nozzle height needs to be perfect but once you get it it won’t look 3D printed, it’s really cool.
I believe you have 3.67 million fans. But I'm glad you're being modest Jay 😎❤️
hey Pc builds are/can be so frustrating even for those that have been building since the mid nineties lol just upgraded my sons ( first own purchased pc) stupid little things that got in the way lol
nice to know that despite years of experience we all get caught out from time to time. really enjoy the videos Jay.
that end... want Phil to record this soldering of the pin and send it to Louis.R. :P
@JayzTwoCents - the problem with the position of the cables from the fans -- you could just rotate the fan stack 180 degrees around horizontal plane, thus, the connector would be to the back and right instead of left and front.
the ARGB header on the UniFans is really easy to replace with a standard header. Wire strippers/snips and shrink wrap or electrical tape.
I still think the original box on its large side like the first AT and XT PCs is best for radiating heat away from components, especially if you could perforate the top and bottom panel. It also uses gravity to seat those expansion cards neatly in their slots