A tip for everybody to make drilling your own bus bars easier cut the bus bar to length lay it on top of your studs and tap it with a mallet the studs will make a mark on the copper that's where you drill
Thanks, for the video! Nice job! Let me suggest that you wrap your busbars in electrical tape with only the holes exposed to reduce the possibility of a shorting mishap., Alternately, you can cover the holes and spray the busbars with your color choice of Plasti-Dip. And, of course, be sure to wrap your metal tools, like wrenches and screwdrivers, as well. Let me also suggest that you place some polystyrene foam between the sides of the batteries and the metal case, as well as on the bottom of the case. This will help to prevent the side to side movement you referenced, as well as provide some insulation to help with temperature management of the pack. And, if you are going to be using the pack in a cold environment, you can use a pair of car seat heating pads connected in series (to reduce the power consumption and heat produced) controlled by a thermostat to keep the pack above freezing.
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Dominick Maddux i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
To ream the holes in the copper bar a stepper drill does a perfect job. If you pilot drill with a 4mm conventional drill and then use the stepper drill you can drill to 6mm and use the initial shoulder of the 8mm step to give the perfect edge. If you increase the width of the busbars you can get the same conductivity using aluminium preventing any dissimilar corrosion between busbar and terminal
@@brucearnold1077 That is the principle I used for my RV. By using twice the cross sectional area it provides slightly better conductivity. There is enough width to double the busbar width or use slightly less if you use thicker aluminium bar. Aluminium bar is readily available online and is cheap. To link two 12v 90Ah lithium batteries I think I used 30mm x 5mm bar (150mm2) which is ample for my application.
I think but ,not sure, aluminum and copper have some sort of corrosion habit especially around salt water, but there is some sort of electrical paste for when you attach copper with aluminum . You can check. I would do it the sameway you have done it. Smiley face
True, especially given the environment and dissimilar-metal corrosion. I would imagine that nickel-plating the copper bus bars or spraying with a conformal coating after assembly would slow down the process.
If you follow 'off grid garage' (RUclips) he has already done some good analysis on this. Contact resistance with high currents can be a problem. Using the same metal for terminals and busbars is better than trying to overcome dissimilar metal corrosion with paste. I used 30mm wide 5mm thick aluminium. If you double the cross sectional area in aluminium you get about 40% better conductivity than using copper. Aluminium is also cheaper, more available and easier to work with.
Please be aware that the aluminium case under the shrink wrap is positively charged. Should the case short to the metal box at some point then the box is also positively charged. A stray negative wire touching the box would close the loop. Your setup looks ok but others need to be aware.
Are there any downsides to putting the cells in parallel like that instead of building two 12v batteries and then putting them in parallel? I know the benefit is that you only need 1 bms, but just wondering if there’s any downsides To consider. (I’m building the same battery pack but 24v)
Nice explanation, i am planning for my home a 48v batteries set 16s2p(96 batteries)but is it not issue to top balance(with active balancer) them when they are in parallel You read so many things on the net and i don’t know it anymore,i am not electrician but i would like it to know bcse i prefer 3sets16s2p rather than 6 sets 16s
So, you are building a 12v system. This will not really work for a 24v system will it? Separating the two sets by threaded rods and plywood leaves a gap; you would need a four inch bus bar to span. Not sure if that would be a good idea. The holes in the metal box are facing the wrong direction for a 24v 8s "box" configuration. Did you finish the build?
I am modeling my battery after your setup except 24V. I will have (4) four-cell modules with two modules in each steel box wired in series with an 8s 100A BMS for each box. I'm hoping to create 8S2P configuration. I'm not sure how to wire the two boxes together. Anyone have insight into how it should done?
Hello from France, I am discovering your videos which are very interesting. Here is my problem: The 6mm connection hole on the top of the 3.2v elements is messed up. As a result, the 6 mm stud turns when tightening. Is it possible to drill a 7 mm hole without risk of damaging the electrode or is it better to use another means? I can restore the pitch of the stud with a small replacement thread (kind of spring) that we place in the hole to screw another smaller stud? Thanks for your help.
ohh dear sorry to hear that. there was a youtube video I saw of someone repair one either tapping a new thread or using a helicoil insert check these videos out and good luck ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=lifepo4+stripped
This shouldn't be too significant as the conduction is between busbar and terminal and does not rely on the terminal post. Published problems tend to be unwanted voltage drops due to poor conduction.
Why did you chose that configuration? You could have done 4 in series and then 2 parallel.i.e 4 of the cells is series to make each make a 12x280ah battery. The parallel those to make s 12x560ah
A tip for everybody to make drilling your own bus bars easier cut the bus bar to length lay it on top of your studs and tap it with a mallet the studs will make a mark on the copper that's where you drill
Excellent job , I’m planning on doing the same exact set up but with 48v for 560Ah
Nice!! Looking forward to the bms part. I'll be building a similar one for our rv.
Thanks, for the video! Nice job!
Let me suggest that you wrap your busbars in electrical tape with only the holes exposed to reduce the possibility of a shorting mishap., Alternately, you can cover the holes and spray the busbars with your color choice of Plasti-Dip. And, of course, be sure to wrap your metal tools, like wrenches and screwdrivers, as well.
Let me also suggest that you place some polystyrene foam between the sides of the batteries and the metal case, as well as on the bottom of the case. This will help to prevent the side to side movement you referenced, as well as provide some insulation to help with temperature management of the pack. And, if you are going to be using the pack in a cold environment, you can use a pair of car seat heating pads connected in series (to reduce the power consumption and heat produced) controlled by a thermostat to keep the pack above freezing.
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Charlie Decker Instablaster :)
@Dominick Maddux i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Dominick Maddux it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Charlie Decker Happy to help :D
LOVE, LOVE, your buss bars
Nice work so far
To ream the holes in the copper bar a stepper drill does a perfect job. If you pilot drill with a 4mm conventional drill and then use the stepper drill you can drill to 6mm and use the initial shoulder of the 8mm step to give the perfect edge.
If you increase the width of the busbars you can get the same conductivity using aluminium preventing any dissimilar corrosion between busbar and terminal
Aluminium has only 60% the conductivity of copper so your bus would need to be around twice the mm2 cross section
@@brucearnold1077 That is the principle I used for my RV. By using twice the cross sectional area it provides slightly better conductivity. There is enough width to double the busbar width or use slightly less if you use thicker aluminium bar. Aluminium bar is readily available online and is cheap. To link two 12v 90Ah lithium batteries I think I used 30mm x 5mm bar (150mm2) which is ample for my application.
wear you got the metal box any links to get one my self grate video keep it up
I think but ,not sure, aluminum and copper have some sort of corrosion habit especially around salt water, but there is some sort of electrical paste for when you attach copper with aluminum . You can check. I would do it the sameway you have done it. Smiley face
True, especially given the environment and dissimilar-metal corrosion. I would imagine that nickel-plating the copper bus bars or spraying with a conformal coating after assembly would slow down the process.
If you follow 'off grid garage' (RUclips) he has already done some good analysis on this. Contact resistance with high currents can be a problem. Using the same metal for terminals and busbars is better than trying to overcome dissimilar metal corrosion with paste. I used 30mm wide 5mm thick aluminium. If you double the cross sectional area in aluminium you get about 40% better conductivity than using copper. Aluminium is also cheaper, more available and easier to work with.
I wish you could finish building battery before ending video.
Great video. Can we get the links please ?
When is part 4 please. I have the same project in progress. Eagerly looking forward to adding the BMS...
coming.... sorry life has got in the way, its much quicker to just get stuff done than to film it all but an update will be coming soon i promise
Very cool!
Where did you get the metal box ?
Please be aware that the aluminium case under the shrink wrap is positively charged. Should the case short to the metal box at some point then the box is also positively charged. A stray negative wire touching the box would close the loop. Your setup looks ok but others need to be aware.
Thanks Bruce, yes we covered this in part 2 which is why i added insulation plates between the cells but worth calling out again 👍
Duh! Should have watched part 2 first
Are there any downsides to putting the cells in parallel like that instead of building two 12v batteries and then putting them in parallel? I know the benefit is that you only need 1 bms, but just wondering if there’s any downsides To consider. (I’m building the same battery pack but 24v)
2bms better, 2 different system, one goes down, other still works. 1bms for this ah amount not the best
@@alexferenci5038 thats based on what you think not everyone agrees 2 bms is best
Nice explanation, i am planning for my home a 48v batteries set 16s2p(96 batteries)but is it not issue to top balance(with active balancer) them when they are in parallel
You read so many things on the net and i don’t know it anymore,i am not electrician but i would like it to know bcse i prefer 3sets16s2p rather than 6 sets 16s
I just built basically the same thing
You have 2x 6v. They way you said you would connect them would see the two 6v packs in parallel and not in series to make 12v.
Hi do you have the total measurements of that Box Think you Very much
Watched part one part two part three with a lot of interest what happened to part four and maybe five still
waiting?
Is it where your link is as mentioned in the video?
Where do you get those studs? Link please.
So, you are building a 12v system. This will not really work for a 24v system will it? Separating the two sets by threaded rods and plywood leaves a gap; you would need a four inch bus bar to span. Not sure if that would be a good idea. The holes in the metal box are facing the wrong direction for a 24v 8s "box" configuration. Did you finish the build?
I am modeling my battery after your setup except 24V. I will have (4) four-cell modules with two modules in each steel box wired in series with an 8s 100A BMS for each box. I'm hoping to create 8S2P configuration. I'm not sure how to wire the two boxes together. Anyone have insight into how it should done?
Hello from France, I am discovering your videos which are very interesting. Here is my problem: The 6mm connection hole on the top of the 3.2v elements is messed up. As a result, the 6 mm stud turns when tightening. Is it possible to drill a 7 mm hole without risk of damaging the electrode or is it better to use another means? I can restore the pitch of the stud with a small replacement thread (kind of spring) that we place in the hole to screw another smaller stud? Thanks for your help.
ohh dear sorry to hear that. there was a youtube video I saw of someone repair one either tapping a new thread or using a helicoil insert check these videos out and good luck ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=lifepo4+stripped
were is part 4
Lots of space,just install some ropes instead of handles in wooden plates?How often do you want to lift out?Never?
That tool is just called a deburring tool.
looking for part 4,5....?
Aluminium + stainless = galvanic corrosion. Use zinc plated studs if you must, or just buy a torque wrench.
What is the torque spec on these batteries?
This shouldn't be too significant as the conduction is between busbar and terminal and does not rely on the terminal post. Published problems tend to be unwanted voltage drops due to poor conduction.
why 6 volt? nothing has run on 6 volts since the 1960,s?
The 2 x 6 volt packs join to make a 12v battery
Why did you chose that configuration? You could have done 4 in series and then 2 parallel.i.e 4 of the cells is series to make each make a 12x280ah battery. The parallel those to make s 12x560ah