Check out my NEWER 100AH LiFePO4 build HERE: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html Check out the full PARTS LIST and wiring diagram HERE on my website: jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
Hey. Hope your well. Looking at doing a 4x 105ah build the same as yours. But I’m struggling to find out which bms to use? I only want to use this for usb connections and maybe a 12v socket. Like you help me please. Kind regards.
Most of my setup runs directly off 12volts. For example my 12v ICECO fridges, fans, camping shower, led lights, flashlights all just need 12v. This power station provides TONS of power to run any of those items! I do have a inverter but I really never use it. Thanks for watching!
Same. Ive built a couple of these, only with SLA batteries, and use 12v equipment. My HAM Radio room runs almost exclusively off of 12v. LED lights, fans etc are all 12v. That also helps to keep RFI down. As of right now I have a computer that is running AC, but I will set an inverter up soon. Fun projects though.
Jasonoid, there are a lot of "Ammo Box" videos on RUclips and I have watched them all 😂 , However, Your video is second to none! Your voice instruction & detail and your overall build quality is Superb. Thank You for making the video. I believe you just gave this wannabe DIY'er the confidence to attempt my first build 😳 . Thanks again.
Thanks for your comment! I love this battery box! Still working great! I'd recommend building it, prices on 80ah cells have dropped quite a bit since this video came out!
Thanks for putting this together, it came out nice. I really appreciated the last segment where you showed up close what it looked like on the inside. I'm gonna put something like this together for a trolling motor for my small boat. Thanx again.
We bought a spare huge car battery for an across US trip in case needed it. Now I would like to turn it into a battery box to use. I wish there was a DYI kit with all the parts together to buy. I like the set up you use. Thank you for the tutorials. Love the review on the EB70, plan to buy one soon. Bookmarked your website.
I have a much more simple battery coming out soon, just waiting on some parts. Make sure to check back in a month or two for that battery build. 100AH LiFePO4 DIY battery for under $400....that's my goal!
One day too late! I just ordered two Lion Safari UT 1300 , 12V 105Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Batteries. They have a nice BMS so I think I can still build this box without the BMS. I have ordered the ICECO VL45. I'm looking to power it. I may add a battery monitor. Great video you do a great job showing how you build and you explain things well.
@@livingcoramdeo I will make an adapter for my Anderson PP panel to make charging easier, but for now I connect alligator clips to the negative BMS lug and positive terminal. It works just fine....just have to remove electrical tape before hooking up the negative.
Build one with 90 AH cells using the same case. Mine has a PWM controller for the trolling motor on my paddle boat in it as well as the cells and BMS. Looked for a long time to find a cheap roomy but not too big case. Thank you for posting this as well as the links. saved me a lot of time and $$!
Great info and video, perhaps for safety on your next build, rotate the battery 180 deg, that way the terminals are as far from the output terminals and wiring.
Im loving the instruction and slow pacing as a novice lifepo4 builder. My first question is- what purpose does the voltage display serve? What voltage is monitored? Is it just the outlets that are on its left and right? Im interested in doing something VERY similar. 304ah eve battery, same bms with blue tooth. I'm also planning to add insulation around the entire box, add heating pads to the sides and a couple of computer fans as well. Those will have their own thermal sensors with parameters that tell them when to turn on and off, and adding life to the battery by allowing it to be in more moderate temps more often. The fan will bring in air from the vehicle and expel it through a vent. A few things im not sure of are- is it more crucial to keep it cool or to make sure its warm while using the electricity from it? Does the bms turn off the solar input? And if so, when does it do this? What should be prioritized with safety and build quality with these things?
Hi. Old comment but hey, he missed it. Voltage meter is for battery voltage, same voltage that the 12V plug and USB-charger uses. It is important to keep batteries and other electronics cool enough but cold can harm sometimes. Charging batteries when they are frozen can damage them, some battery systems have in built low temp cut off and even warmer to use some of the power to keep them from freezing. I believe some BMS's have low temp cut offs. Moisture can be be bad too, keep this in mind when designing projects. Making holes for plugs on the side of the box is usually better than on the top in case of rain. BMS turns off charging when the voltage is right, don't remember the LiFePo4 spesifications right now. Too high voltage should not be able to input. I'll left prioritizing for the maker. If the battery box is not meant to be thrown in the back of your car and not to spend a days and nights in damp conditions and scorching sunshine, then it is okay to make it not so durable.
For layout I like to use a simple slide rule. Once set, then it gives me an exact offset for each hole to drill. Just makes things easier to get centered and consistent
Awesome video we had a big storm on Thursday I just got power back today.4nights with no power do have a gen but for fridge only. Don't want to be left like this again.
Have you seen the 'all in one' power station units that have a battery, inverter and charge controller built into one unit? Pretty awesome tech coming out these days: ruclips.net/video/5IWvk4H9F-E/видео.html
We had a big storm move in the area Thursday June 29th about three-thirty in the afternoon. Power was restored on July 3rd about 4 in the afternoon. On June 30th I went to Amazon and got the blue yeti EB 3A. Not knowing anything about this stuff looks like I picked a good power unit. So I subscribed to your channel and try to watch every video to understand the whole solar generation. I live in Indiana so we have pretty good sun here. Without watching any videos I also ordered a 12-volt refrigerator. So thanks for the videos
Great Video! I ordered 200 amp cells from a vendor that Will Prowse recommended. All together was about $750 but more power then my little transit connect can use even when I add a 12volt fridge lol. Thanks for sharing this, I shared it with 2 groups that constantly talk about those over priced jackery units. Mine is going to be the leisure battery fro my van wired to a fusebox and renogy dc to dc charger (and eventually a 100 watt portable solar battery for when I am camping and using the battery.) I added a manual switch for the wire coming from my alternator so it won't be always sending juice back to the battery since I want to keep it around 90% as being full and try not to drain it below 10% either so I might get more cycles out of it. I can check the battery gauge and when it needs to be charged, charge it when it is nearly 90%, turn the switch off so the battery won't cook.
If I read the Alibaba page for the BMS Bluetooth adapter correctly, the user can set the over voltage and under voltage parameters. I'm with you, I want long battery life, so I would get extra capacity and set it to range from 90-10%. The great thing about the larger cells is that at 1C they can push a lot of amps so they wouldn't heat up at 100a when using an induction cooker.
@@posteroonie The BMS is completely customizable. Pretty awesome. You can set the exactly when you want the cells to stop charging and discharging. Love it! I just ran a fridge in FREEZER mode for 48 hours on this battery. My last battery wouldn't even last 24 hours without charging it
BMS's top balance, meaning that they don't start to balance until the cell voltages are over a certain level, nearly fully charged. So it might be a good idea to run your batteries up to 100% every couple of months to trigger the balancing. The balance voltage is configurable for the BMS in the video, so I would set it to just below 90% if my overvoltage limit was at 90%.
I would like to give you the following suggestion when wiring the power pole connectors as you have done. You do not want to mount the connectors as you have done because you can accidentally plug your connectors into the middle connections and destroy what ever you have plugged in. Either make the connectors black/ red/ red/black or red/black/ black/ red. I assembled my anderson power pole connectors in a battery pack as you have done and accidentally plugged into the two center connectors, thereby reversing polarity and destroyed my ic-706 radio. Other than that suggestion, love the way you constructed your battery pack. De W2AR, Phil Mollica
Great video and I love your high quality workmanship. In Australia I’m currently able to buy locally 80Ah CALB sells for $85 AUD each, which is great value 😊
Very cool build!! I have built a few similar boxes using 18650s and small plastic HF ammo boxes. I never thought of this larger box for a 100 Ah trolling motor power cell I built. I have the same bms which comes from Battery Hookup for about $85, fyi. I also use a usb with volt meter built in to save a little space. How are you securing the cells inside the case so they don't jump around in case it gets turned upside down? Thanks for the demonstration, it is very innovative. You have inspired me to add some cigarette plugs and a couple of LED back up lights for after dark. Thanks
The batteries are heavy enough they won't be shifting around.....as long as I keep the case from falling out of my SUV or something. Thanks for watching, glad it could be helpful!
Great video. Looked at the link for the battery cells and notice a 85800 mAh power station on sale for $249.99 which is less than what it would cost to build one these today.
The prices have dropped quite a bit since my video, 100ah are priced as low as $175!! The larger cells might not work in the case I used in the video but all the principles are the same, just find a larger case to use.
Nice build my man, I have got a 40AH LifePo4 battery and would love to build some similar but with a nicer case that would support MC4 solar cables too for on the go charging. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated really.
Thanks! I have a newer larger build I am doing right now. 100 ah LIFEPO4 for dang cheap! Video will coming out soon. I think you'll find it really useful. The cells are also here in the usa so fast shipping!
Very thorough and informative build Jason! Thx for sharing. Was wondering if you had ever thought of using Li-Ion before choosing to use Li-Po instead before the build? Am trying to choose either to use these both for my build as well. So thought of getting your thoughts on it first. Li-ions are cheaper but has lower capacity on each battery, Li-pos are much more pricy but has higher capacity on it. But which one lasts longer in the long run?
Lifepo4 have 2500 cycles at least per cell if treated correctly, lithium Ion only have 500. Lithium ion are a fire risk, especially for a diy project. I would stick with lifepo4, they are slightly heavier, but are very safe! Check out the SOK 100ah batteries, they are very good quality but they have the built in BMS already that has the low temp cutoff. For complete diy aliexpress has many cells to choose from, you just chose the middle ground pricing on cells, I avoided the dirt cheap ones and the most expensive ones.
looks great and I like the military-style as well .. one thing that I would like to tell you is lithium's voltage change during the power draw is very different with lead aid battery . they hold up voltage around 13V pretty much steady over 60~80 percent of life cycle depend on the size or package . so be aware that voltage will not tell you many things like it did in lead aid :D
@@juliogonzo2718 I'm not sure how much money you will spend on lithium battery but 200 shouldn't bother you if that guaranty longevity of your most expensive investment but if you still want to save some money look at the link below there are option allows you to calculate total amount of watts by monitoring and it won't give you the actual SOC(stage of charge) and just calculate how much energy came out only so you need to know how much energy coming in your PV by yourself then you can calculate SOC.
Correct, the BMS does a pretty good job displaying remaining power. It also tracks power used over time. Would recommend using that BMS. The Bluetooth functionality is great!
Hey Mike, make sure you check out my newer 100ah build as well. It's better than this one: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html As for your questions... I use a couple different dedicated lifepo4 chargers. My solar mppt / DC to DC charger is the Kisae DTM1250. Excellent dual input charger. My ac charger is a circuit specialists 15v 60amp charger. You can find it on their website. I use the positive and negative connections from the Anderson powerpole connections to charge.
You're welcome, I am almost finished building a second iteration of this but using 100ah LiFePO4 cells. Stay tuned to the channel for that video soon. Might help provide some other refined ideas.
Great build! Mine are very similar all though my cabling is not as neat 😄. Have you thought of putting a solar charger in there to be able to hook up a panel? I've done so in both my setups and it works great in summer trips ^^
This one I could probably fit a very small mppt charge controller in the case. I have since built a new 100ah battery that's a little better / easier to assemble than this one. It uses batteryhookup 100ah modules. You can view it here: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Thanks a lot for this video. As I am building my version 2 solar generator hence watching a tons of videos related this and undoubtedly this one can be said one of the best video I have watched. Indeed, I have already watched this video couple of times due to few instruction/parts list. I have one question though related to the Anderson connectors. In this build, it looks like you have mounted a 4 port Anderson plug flush mount whereas your all other connectors look like those are mini-Anderson plug type. May be this is a naive question but does the mini Anderson power-pole connectors fit in the regular Anderson port ? In fact I am purchasing the connectors but cant be sure how those are compatible.
Great explanation. I need to do it for my van. My question is with dc dc charger can I have it charged as I move vehicle, solar when is parked. I have fridge, instant pot, tel and tablet. Thank you in advance
Check out the Kisae DTM1250, I have it and it supports both solar and DC to DC Charging as you want. Awesome charger! I'll have a video out on it soon.
Great Video! I enjoyed and very much appreciated the step by step explaination for everything. I like the layout inside and out. I think I will try making this one for camping. Do they have Anderson Plugs with a Cover Cap like the other connections to keep out dirt and debris?
You'll like this newer build much more, better price and more storage: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html I have a full parts list on my website as well.
I see a problem at the anderson power connectors. the pairs are not separated so a mugwump can easily plug into the middle 2 and achieve reverse polarity. The pairs need to be separated by a divider of some sort.
Why the 20 amp fuse for the front panel I/O when the inverter is rated for 300W? Wouldn't the 20 amp fuse trip if you are pulling anything over 240W AC power?
I agree this build wasn't perfect and I didn't expect this build to get so much attention. I have built a new battery box with that in mind that has a much better design, more capacity, and proper wiring setup.
Great video! Question for you tho… you are charging using the BMS Ground and the positive terminal of all your cells? Just want to make sure I get the how you get there.
I connect my lifepo4 battery charger to the Anderson power pole connections on the front of the battery box. Those directly connect to the positive and negative terminals of the battery (fused of course). The BMS is installed in line of the negative terminal. Does that make sense?
Please review recommended cell orientation for your cells. Most prismatic cells have to be orientated vertically not horizontally, otherwise it will damage cells over time. Cylindrical cells can be mounted horizontally.
Correct, I don't push these cells at high loads so they shouldn't have an issue leaking, just pull 10 amps or so running small gadgets and 12v fridges. I built a new 100ah version using cylindrical cells, put the video put yesterday, it's a better build.
I'm not an expert for LiFePo4 batteries, but connecting the cells directly in parallel would damage at least a LiIon or LiPo battery (if not destroy them) if the charge state of the individual cells differs too much. Usually, you should check the cells voltage and bring them to the same level if necessary before connecting the cells together in order to prevent to high current flows between the cells. Is this different for these cells or is it simply a mistake on your part?
The Anderson connectors can be used for both charging and discharging? Seems logical but in my mind I assumed those 2 things would be separate circuits?
So just think of the anderson terminals just like the terminals on a car battery. Allows charging and discharging at the same point. You car alternator is charging but accessories are using power at the same time.
@@Jasonoid Yup, makes sense. When I built mine I built in the solar charge controller with an SAE connector on the outside, so I think I would add a separate charge port for an AC charger to go direct to the battery.
I would love to see a 3.0 with a solar charger installed. I'm a good diy'er but have been nervous to try and build a solar generator but at the same time I'm dieing to build one
Very nice instructions. I would build one if you could come up with a kit offer for one-stop shopping like the Heath Kits I used to build, with 100% guaranteed success.
great video and tutorial but I was wondering if I built this and put three in series for 36v system to power a trolling motor. Do you think it is doable? the trolling motor draws a max current of 43Amps at full power. thanks
Thanks for the reply! I plan on doing a 24 volt bank comprised of 6 modules. Hopefully get 350 amp hours 🙌🏻 . I like the battleborn brand but I can’t justify the pricing 😅. I have a build series here on RUclips. The goal is to reno a vintage Rv on a modest budget with the capability to go off grid ! Your builds are so neat and I’ve learned a great deal ! Keep pushing the content!
Great video. I've been on the suggested BMS page and I have a couple of questions: 1) How do you choose the BMS according to the amps drawn ? For example, I plan to use the battery for a trolling motor that draws 34 A max. So the 60 A BMS should be ok, right ? 2) I noticed that you used a circuit breaker. However, on the BMS page, on the app screenshot, it seems to show (scroll down) an "Hardware short protection" and "Hardware overcurrent protection". Wouldn't these make the circuit breaker redundant ? And what's the difference between them ? I guess the circuit breaker is there just in case.... Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You'll be good with the 60amp BMS, you can always go higher for future projects if you think youll get a bigger motor. I used the circuit breaker style switch in order to power down all ports and front controls. It just a benefit it also works as a circuit breaker.
Ozne_ Yesterday I got my 200 amp hour lithium battery with integral BMS and no plastic case. I replaced a similar 100AH unit. This is for a modified Minn Kota trolling motor battery box that has a factory 60 amp circuit breaker on the terminals. The box is used to power up medical equipment where there is no AC power and trees block sunlight to solar panels. But it would probably work very well to run a 35 amp trolling motor for a long time. Did you build it?
Fantastic build. It would be great if you could do version III with a power inverter, A/C power supply and a solar controller so it could also provide 110v A/C and be charged from solar panels or grid power. Thanks. !:- )
Wonderful ideas! I won't be sleeping well for the next couple of nights! Is it possible to charge this arrangement by simply plugging into a automobile's 12v accessory port? I know it won't be rapid, but it would charge the unit while driving, right? Again, thanks for the wonderful idea!
You'll want to charge the battery using a lithium lifepo4 based charger. There are many available. If it has DC input you could charge it with your vehicle 12v accessory port. Thanks for watching!
@@Jasonoid Have you sourced a reasonable DC-DC charger? I'm not sure how boxes like Jackery are getting all this stuff in there! Charge controller, inverter, DC-DC-charger. AND the batteries! How do they do that??? One of my primary uses will be to run a DC refrigerator while on the road. I really need to be able to charge from my alternator, even if it is slow. How do you manage your refrigerators while on the road?
While on the road and while driving, I run my fridge off my 12v accessory port in the back of my 4Runner, I custom installed Anderson power ports and ran 8 gauge wire to the back. It works well and I don't have much voltage drop over the distance. While camping or when I'm not driving I run my fridges off this Lifepo4 battery. I charge it via a combo charger. It's a Kisae DTM1250. Check it out the, I bought one and I love it. Little expensive but very customizable. Solar MPPT and DC to DC Charging in one! I bought it off Amazon.
After looking around (and being appalled at the prices for DC-to-DC chargers), I've started playing around with DC buck boost converters you can buy on ebay/Alli Express, etc. These are basically self-contained power supplies that feature constant voltage and current and will easily step up or step-down voltage from inputs between 5 and 30 volts and outputs of .5 to 30volts. They are pretty limited to relatively low amperage (usually less than 4 amps), but for my purposes it should work, I think, for slowing charging my LiFePo4 battery from the car's electrical system while driving. There is also a timer feature that will turn the output off after a predetermined amount of time. There is the added plus of now having a self-contained module that can be used to run all sorts of less-than/more-than 12 volts in my battery box. The model I'm using has a display built right in, so it's very easy to dial up the desired voltage and amperage requirements to run fans, worklights, etc that may be rated at something other than 12 volts. I'll report back with details of my testing....
@@Jasonoid I was nodding my head for almost the entire video. I just finished a build this weekend and used the same battery chemistry, same case, same circuit breaker and Anderson PP connectors :) Geek telepathy apparently.
@@Jasonoid Yes, I have the ICECO jp40. I decided to run the Anderson plugs in my battery box so I could move away from using the cigarette receptacle, which seems to want to wiggle out when off-roading.
@@nikoargeres8156 Thumbs up man! Good to hear. I'd love to see your setup. You should post a video on it on your channel. LifePO4 stuff is only going to get more popular!
Some people say the cells need to oriented vertically, I haven't had any issues with mine being sideways. They've been that way for over a year. Maybe if someone was pushing 80amps all the time it may be an issue.
Thanks for the video, quite informative. How is the BMS holding up? Can you set a cutoff voltage through the phone app, so when the battery charge drops below a certain voltage the power just cuts out? Looks like quite good value, considering it for my first camping battery project. Tx
Hello. I really liked the video and it has me wanting to try and build my own box too. I did have a few questions though. The batteries in the link are now $159. Are they the correct batteries? They are much cheaper than what you originally described. What AC charger do you recommend? Also, if you use a 100 watt solar panel to charge like the Rockpals, do you need a charge controller wired in or does the BMS serve that function too? Thanks for your informative work!
You'll want to have a lithium based charger to charge it properly, those can be either AC or DC powered. There are multichargers available that support more than one input, for example solar, DC or ac charging. (check out the Kisae DTM1250, it's amazing!). The price of batteries have dropped significantly because the larger 280ah cells are very popular right now. You can always spend more money for these types of cells. With cheap batteries you'd probably get around 95% advertised capacity, which I think is worth it for the cost. An active cell balancer is usually required for unbalanced cells, you can get a pretty cheap one off Amazon, it worked really good for my battery pack. Will Prowse has a couple videos on the subject. Just plan to get good at soldering. It's been such a fun project and I have learned a lot. My next build will be a bigger 280ah build. Just saving money for those batteries.
Hello. very beautiful video. I'm building a 280Ah battery. however, your BMS can only handle 120ah. do you have another recommendation? I am thinking of the Heyo BMS 250ah. or are there other alternatives?
I just have researched this specific model, I haven't looked at anything bigger. Best wishes finding something that works for you! Thanks for watching!
I used a large terminal lug that supported 6 awg wires and soldered/crimped it in there. I purchased this set and I use these all the time for projects: amzn.to/2Zp09md
whats the max Amp output? and How much does it Weigh in lbs.. Was looking into making something like this for my car audio system currently I have 3 Xs power 3400 batteries...They all weigh quite a bit and weigh down the back of the car. I would need something I can draw quite a few amps from at once.. I'm pushing like 9000 W RMS
I use the Anderson power pole ports. I charge it with a Kisae DTM1250 DC to DC charger. It takes both DC input from my alternator or with MPPT solar input.
I came here for the same question. Would I be able to charge this with my renogy 100w solar suitcase that already has the charge controller by alligator clipping to the main terminals inside the box?
@@deanwhittle2669 Most people would advise against it because that battery charger is designed for lead acid batteries....BUT technically it would work because it would charge the battery up to 14.2 volts and the LiFePO4 BMS would shut off the charging. I have used a lead acid charger on my battery in the past in a pinch, BUT I always recommend someone purchase a designated lithium based charger.
Maybe you can clarify what part / adapter you are referencing in your comment? I think you meant this Female 12v Cig socket: amzn.to/3Bb0Gc1 I bought the female adapter and then put AndersonPP on the end. I have a video about making Anderson Powerpole cables from about a month ago on my channel
@@Jasonoid thanks for the fast response. I bought the Treva 12v fan. It run on the switching adapter that comes with the fan or batteries. Like you, I don't think I want to run using batteries. My plan is to run the fan using the LiFePO battery box that have the cigarette plug. You mentioned barrel connector and I could not find a link in your video where to purchase the adapter.
@@dummy4100 Ahhhh, so that Treva fan has a 5521mm barrel connector for power. So you'll want this cable adapter: amzn.to/3D9ofnh 12v cigarette plug to DC 5521mm barrel plug. Then you can power the fan off 12volts.
@@Jasonoid That I am planning to use, but wanted to check if there is a LCD one I can use.. mostly because family will be using it more than I will and just wanted it be idiot proof.
Have two questions, 1. we need 2 fuse holders and one 30amp / 20amp fuse which is not in the list below 2. Can I plugin the solar power panel / car battery 12v output through a MPPT or i need a DC to DC convertor as you have in the comments.
You can charge it via the Anderson power pole connections as long as you have a MPPT designed for lithium batteries. The fuse holders can be found on amazon, get at least 8 to 10 gauge holders
Awesome video! I'm trying to get the best option for a Lifepo4 bat like this for a while to run my astrophotography setup in remote areas. Few questions, because I'm kind of a noob in this area: 1. How do you charge it? Can you use the powerpole panel, or some croc clamps go onto the main + and - bolts? (also I think I heard once, you can only charge cells like this separately). Do you have a charger you recommend? (unfortunately I'm based in the EU, so would might not find the model in your video) 2. You can adjust the voltage with the BMS for discharging I assume - how does that affect the charging process? 3. Raising the voltage (e.g. I run my setup on 13.8V) doesn't raise it on the USB ports? (yeah, super amateur question :D) Thanks!
Usb ports are fixed at 5v so no need to worry about that 12v ports will put out full voltage. Just FYI that cars have about 14.2 volts while the engine is running so this is still less. I charge it from a lifepo4 charger via the Anderson power pole connections but you can also do it from the main terminals. Any lifepo4 designed charger will work.
@@Jasonoid just looking on AliExpress the links you provided for the cells and for a "lot of 4" is only $168 at this time.... + a BMS and box is such an affordable project. ....
Hey Vandall, I use a smart charger that supports Lithium batter types. There are many available on the market. I recently found an AWESOME DC to DC charger that supports both a DC input and Solar input so you can charge with your vehicle at high amps or with solar panels with high amps. Pretty slick! Kisae DTM1250 is the name of the charger. I'll put a video out on it once winter is over, lame cold weather!
I made a newer 100ah version of this lifepo4 battery box, it has better cells and is easier to build. You can view it here: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html It will power a 12v fridge for a week or so, depending on ambient temps and the fridge setpoint
They don't make 12v 200amp bms units because the amps would be crazy high. If you want to run 200amps you'd want a 24v or 48v battery. I think Will Prowse has a couple higher amp units he's recommended on his channel. I have a new 100ah battery I am making from Battery Hookup in the next couple months. I'd recommend checking out their 100ah modules, they are a great price and super compact!
@@Jasonoid that is correct, search on aliexpress there are several good quality BMS's available ( or google them ) for 24v which help you do this. You would also need to get batteries / bigger case, etc ) the over all design which Jason provided would just work great
Hi, The LifePo4 cells from AliExpress, there are made in China ? What happens if the product is defective, and you have to pay for shipping them back to China? Also would it be possible to use these in an EV setting by putting 2 or more units in parallel ? Thanks
All Lifepo4 cells are manufactured in China right now. They are working on building factories here in the usa though. Check out my newer 100ah battery build video, it's better and much easier to put together: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
i wanted to build something similar except include a solar charge controller as well. should i wire in the positive of the charge controller to the main breaker, or direct to the battery? if i go direct to the battery will the charge controller always be on and draining my battery?
As for draining the battery it depends on the charge controller. Most have some sort of parasitic drain. Its good to fuse that connection so I'd put it behind the breaker if I were you. Check out this super compact charge that works well with Lifepo4, it's the smallest I could find: ruclips.net/video/RKi6wSfELl8/видео.html
@@Jasonoid thanks. I think I might add a smaller breaker just for the charge controller so I don't need to turn everything on to charge. Your diagram was a big help. Most videos show a rats nest of wires and its hard to follow where they all go.
This is my more recent build. It has more capacity (100ah vs 80ah). The batteries are also sold in the USA so they are faster to ship. You can view the video here: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Enjoying the video and how to information. One comment, with the volume up enough to hear you well the music played during the assembly section is notably louder causing me have to turn it down. Common complaint of mine with about 99% of youtube content makers, never have figured out why that is so common. A lower volume for the music section than the content voice over would be highly preferable to this viewer.
Audio levels are actually the same decibel level on both sections. So technically I would need to have the music volume much less than the voice audio.
@@Jasonoid Wow, interesting. Just one old guy's opinion. You have really piqued my interest in building one of these systems. I envision it being used during a back country hunting trip in MT fall 2021, but find myself now concerned about the freezing issue and whether or not it could be recharged. Curious as to how much "gadget" recharging could be done from one full charge. Could see using it to run a small 12v fan to circulate heat in a tent for example.
@@bucmeister7713 I'd recommend going with larger cells because they aren't that much more expensive. Like 280ah cells would last probably a week charging small electronics and running a small 12v fan. If I were to do it again I'd use 200+ amp hour cells
@@Jasonoid Good to know as that would be an awesome amount of power. Thank you for that advice. Been looking at these cells a lot after watching a video wherein a guy replaced his lead acid camper batteries with packs built out of the 280ah cells, said he got double the usable energy per cycle. The battery technology these days is attention grabbing for sure. Figure once the holy grail of solid state is achieved much more of our daily lives will convert to electric. Maybe the solid state technology will not be as cold temp sensitive.
@@Jasonoid That's what I was thinking. Some thing to run a refrigerator when the power is out, and can be recharged with solar. Also, maybe build the basic battery, BMS, 1000 or 2000 watt inverter, solar charger, and then have it so we can build more batteries in the future and daisy chain them for a larger and larger bank. I know the battery is the big expense, but maybe build an "EMERGENCY" box using deep cycle lead acid for now, and then upgrade to lithium later when more funds are available, but at least for starters you have some thing for an emergency that can be used hard for a few weeks if need be. A 1000 watt inverter to keep a refrigerator going, run a microwave, TV and basic charging of cell phones and what not, or upgrade to a 2000 watt to maybe run all that, and a hot plate or some thing for cooking on. It's a lot of power being drawn, but that's why you can daisy chain batteries as needed, and have a couple solar panels as well. Personally, I'm not building some thing like this to take camping to air up a mattress, or charge batteries for tools, I mean that's cool and fun and all, but for "ME", I'd spend a few hundred more dollars and make it really usable for all that fun stuff, AND FOR REAL emergencies. Some thing for REAL emergencies, it should be able to be recharged from the grid or gen set, solar, and a vehicles charging system. I'm in Louisiana, and we lost power for only 14 hours a few weeks ago when the hurricane hit, but if I was just 40 miles west in Lake Charles, I would be without power for weeks. I have a gen set, but this would be great to use along with it. Some thing else that would be handy I think, is a built in retractable extension cord mounted, probably on the outside. I'm thinking some thing along the lines of a vacuum cleaner cord, as they're pretty durable, can handle a good amount of power, they're cheap, compact, around 20 foot long cord, and easy to mount. Of course you'd have to replace the male end with a female, but that's no biggie. Now you really do have a very handy self contained box. For reference, here's what I'm thinking. evacuumstore.com/p-311-electrolux-plastic-canister-cord-winder-assembly.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo-CGl87r6wIVEdbACh2uoQQjEAQYBSABEgJ7jPD_BwE A bunch on ebay. www.ebay.com/i/312867187883?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312867187883&targetid=935694488106&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9025259&poi=&campaignid=10877145111&mkgroupid=105798873063&rlsatarget=pla-935694488106&abcId=9300400&merchantid=108357416&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo-CGl87r6wIVEdbACh2uoQQjEAQYASABEgID-fD_BwE Keep up the great work.
I used 80ah battery cells. I'm not sure if the 105 AH cells would fit in the case I used. There are many 80AH cells on Aliexpress, just find one that mentions they are grade A cells
I am just learning about life po4 batteries. Would this type of an application work for a small (max 20a draw) trolling motor ona kayak or do i need to fork out the cash for a "deep cycle" life po4? Thanks.
All Lifepo4 batteries are technically deep cycle. You can discharge them 80% without permanent damage. 20amps is a lot of power draw. If you want the battery to last longer than 3 hours you'd want to get something larger but use the same principle in my video to build it. 200ah or even 280ah batteries have come down in price quite a bit recently. If you have room for a larger battery I would recommend a larger capacity. I only have an average of 5 amp draw and my 80ah battery works great for me.
Hello I was just wondering how long you could expect to run a Dometic 55im fridge off of a build like this. I believe it pulls 1.1 ah/h. So I would assume 80hrs then? Sorry I’m new to the battery game. Just tired of all the promoted reviews of the big names jackery bluetti etc. Seems like building one would be a more reliable option.
DIY is a great to save money and get more battery storage. I tested and got about 72ah out of my battery and thought it was well worth it. Fridges can run quite awhile and infinitely with solar or a DC to DC charger (kisae DTM1250) is what I use for solar and DC Charging.
I'm looking to build a box just like yours with a few add on features that I need. I'm a complete novice when it comes to electric and could use some guidance. Would you be open to having some dialog to help me out? I'd appreciate not sending myself to an early grave 🤣
Check out this video, easier version and better steps for the install. Also I have a full parts list and wiring guide on my website: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Nice video, I'm new to all this. Can you tell me the difference between your diy project and buying a Jackery 150. Seems the diy cost alot more. Don't get me wrong I live diy projects.
The Jackery 150 has only 150 watt hours of storage, you'd have to buy the Jackery 1000 to match this power. Nothing wrong with purchasing a product. I have a recent 372 watt hour solar generator review video on my channel for only $250, you might want to check out that video.
Hi, From France! Vers great And instructive vidéo. I’d like to build this for m’y astrnomy activity IN high mountains. Is it possible adding a second cigarette lighter? (Structural plan?) Is it possible adding a fifth cell 20 Ah (100Ah)? And finally, how and where do you connect your box for charging? Thanks a lot for all!
It's a 4s battery so you'd have to buy larger capacity cells to get more storage you can add as many 12 volt sockets as you want. I use a stock lifepo4 charger and it works well! Thanks for watching!
@@Jasonoid Thank you. Could you please, tell me the reference of your two chargers ? (solar and home)? Do you connect them on the Anderson PowerPole? Regards,
LiFePO4 batteries can usually discharge max at a 1C rate, or 100% of their power. For example, these 80ah cells can discharge at 80 amps max, 100ah cells can discharge at 100 amps max. To get 150 amps you'd want at least 150amp hours worth of batteries or go with a 24v system.
Check out my NEWER 100AH LiFePO4 build HERE: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Check out the full PARTS LIST and wiring diagram HERE on my website:
jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
Hey. Hope your well.
Looking at doing a 4x 105ah build the same as yours. But I’m struggling to find out which bms to use? I only want to use this for usb connections and maybe a 12v socket. Like you help me please.
Kind regards.
I love this. And I think the fact that you didn't double the size just to have an AC inverter built-in is genius.
Most of my setup runs directly off 12volts. For example my 12v ICECO fridges, fans, camping shower, led lights, flashlights all just need 12v. This power station provides TONS of power to run any of those items! I do have a inverter but I really never use it. Thanks for watching!
Same. Ive built a couple of these, only with SLA batteries, and use 12v equipment. My HAM Radio room runs almost exclusively off of 12v. LED lights, fans etc are all 12v. That also helps to keep RFI down. As of right now I have a computer that is running AC, but I will set an inverter up soon. Fun projects though.
Jasonoid, there are a lot of "Ammo Box" videos on RUclips and I have watched them all 😂 , However, Your video is second to none! Your voice instruction & detail and your overall build quality is Superb. Thank You for making the video. I believe you just gave this wannabe DIY'er the confidence to attempt my first build 😳 . Thanks again.
Thanks for your comment! I love this battery box! Still working great! I'd recommend building it, prices on 80ah cells have dropped quite a bit since this video came out!
Thanks for putting this together, it came out nice. I really appreciated the last segment where you showed up close what it looked like on the inside.
I'm gonna put something like this together for a trolling motor for my small boat. Thanx again.
Should work well for that project! Thanks for watching!
One of the best videos I have seen on this subject. Very detailed and informative...Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
We bought a spare huge car battery for an across US trip in case needed it. Now I would like to turn it into a battery box to use. I wish there was a DYI kit with all the parts together to buy. I like the set up you use. Thank you for the tutorials. Love the review on the EB70, plan to buy one soon. Bookmarked your website.
I have a much more simple battery coming out soon, just waiting on some parts. Make sure to check back in a month or two for that battery build. 100AH LiFePO4 DIY battery for under $400....that's my goal!
Hi there, I am Kathy. I am reaching out to express my admiration to your professional knowledge in battery DIY.
Very nice build! Battery boxes are the way to go
Check out my newer version here:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
@@Jasonoid thanks! I will!
One day too late! I just ordered two Lion Safari UT 1300
, 12V 105Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Batteries. They have a nice BMS so I think I can still build this box without the BMS. I have ordered the ICECO VL45. I'm looking to power it. I may add a battery monitor. Great video you do a great job showing how you build and you explain things well.
Thanks for watching! Sounds like an awesome project! Let me know how it goes!
@@Jasonoid Thanks! When you charge your batteries, where do you connect the charger?
@@livingcoramdeo I will make an adapter for my Anderson PP panel to make charging easier, but for now I connect alligator clips to the negative BMS lug and positive terminal. It works just fine....just have to remove electrical tape before hooking up the negative.
Really nice job 👍 beautiful workmanship, well explained 👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks
Build one with 90 AH cells using the same case. Mine has a PWM controller for the trolling motor on my paddle boat in it as well as the cells and BMS. Looked for a long time to find a cheap roomy but not too big case. Thank you for posting this as well as the links. saved me a lot of time and $$!
Awesome build, sounds like you will be using it for some fun stuff!
Great info and video, perhaps for safety on your next build, rotate the battery 180 deg, that way the terminals are as far from the output terminals and wiring.
Good tip!
Im loving the instruction and slow pacing as a novice lifepo4 builder. My first question is- what purpose does the voltage display serve? What voltage is monitored? Is it just the outlets that are on its left and right?
Im interested in doing something VERY similar. 304ah eve battery, same bms with blue tooth. I'm also planning to add insulation around the entire box, add heating pads to the sides and a couple of computer fans as well. Those will have their own thermal sensors with parameters that tell them when to turn on and off, and adding life to the battery by allowing it to be in more moderate temps more often. The fan will bring in air from the vehicle and expel it through a vent. A few things im not sure of are- is it more crucial to keep it cool or to make sure its warm while using the electricity from it? Does the bms turn off the solar input? And if so, when does it do this? What should be prioritized with safety and build quality with these things?
Hi. Old comment but hey, he missed it.
Voltage meter is for battery voltage, same voltage that the 12V plug and USB-charger uses.
It is important to keep batteries and other electronics cool enough but cold can harm sometimes. Charging batteries when they are frozen can damage them, some battery systems have in built low temp cut off and even warmer to use some of the power to keep them from freezing. I believe some BMS's have low temp cut offs.
Moisture can be be bad too, keep this in mind when designing projects. Making holes for plugs on the side of the box is usually better than on the top in case of rain.
BMS turns off charging when the voltage is right, don't remember the LiFePo4 spesifications right now. Too high voltage should not be able to input.
I'll left prioritizing for the maker. If the battery box is not meant to be thrown in the back of your car and not to spend a days and nights in damp conditions and scorching sunshine, then it is okay to make it not so durable.
For layout I like to use a simple slide rule. Once set, then it gives me an exact offset for each hole to drill. Just makes things easier to get centered and consistent
Great tip!
Awesome video we had a big storm on Thursday I just got power back today.4nights with no power do have a gen but for fridge only. Don't want to be left like this again.
Have you seen the 'all in one' power station units that have a battery, inverter and charge controller built into one unit? Pretty awesome tech coming out these days:
ruclips.net/video/5IWvk4H9F-E/видео.html
We had a big storm move in the area Thursday June 29th about three-thirty in the afternoon. Power was restored on July 3rd about 4 in the afternoon. On June 30th I went to Amazon and got the blue yeti EB 3A. Not knowing anything about this stuff looks like I picked a good power unit. So I subscribed to your channel and try to watch every video to understand the whole solar generation. I live in Indiana so we have pretty good sun here. Without watching any videos I also ordered a 12-volt refrigerator. So thanks for the videos
thanks for taking the time to show us how to wire it , the most important of the video.
Glad it helped
Great Video! I ordered 200 amp cells from a vendor that Will Prowse recommended. All together was about $750 but more power then my little transit connect can use even when I add a 12volt fridge lol. Thanks for sharing this, I shared it with 2 groups that constantly talk about those over priced jackery units. Mine is going to be the leisure battery fro my van wired to a fusebox and renogy dc to dc charger (and eventually a 100 watt portable solar battery for when I am camping and using the battery.) I added a manual switch for the wire coming from my alternator so it won't be always sending juice back to the battery since I want to keep it around 90% as being full and try not to drain it below 10% either so I might get more cycles out of it. I can check the battery gauge and when it needs to be charged, charge it when it is nearly 90%, turn the switch off so the battery won't cook.
Appreciate it, thanks for the share! Your project sounds awesome, I bet it will work well for you!
If I read the Alibaba page for the BMS Bluetooth adapter correctly, the user can set the over voltage and under voltage parameters. I'm with you, I want long battery life, so I would get extra capacity and set it to range from 90-10%. The great thing about the larger cells is that at 1C they can push a lot of amps so they wouldn't heat up at 100a when using an induction cooker.
@@posteroonie The BMS is completely customizable. Pretty awesome. You can set the exactly when you want the cells to stop charging and discharging. Love it! I just ran a fridge in FREEZER mode for 48 hours on this battery. My last battery wouldn't even last 24 hours without charging it
BMS's top balance, meaning that they don't start to balance until the cell voltages are over a certain level, nearly fully charged. So it might be a good idea to run your batteries up to 100% every couple of months to trigger the balancing. The balance voltage is configurable for the BMS in the video, so I would set it to just below 90% if my overvoltage limit was at 90%.
Deryk, How is it doing a year later?
I would like to give you the following suggestion when wiring the power pole connectors as you have done. You do not want to mount the connectors as you have done because you can accidentally plug your connectors into the middle connections and destroy what ever you have plugged in. Either make the connectors black/ red/ red/black or red/black/ black/ red. I assembled my anderson power pole connectors in a battery pack as you have done and accidentally plugged into the two center connectors, thereby reversing polarity and destroyed my ic-706 radio. Other than that suggestion, love the way you constructed your battery pack. De W2AR, Phil Mollica
I agree, I have it on my to do list to flip over half the pairs. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I like how detailed you are in your explanations. Thanks for the resources you linked!
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video, great discerption of how you did this project and gage of wire used. Thanks for a great video.
Glad it was helpful!
Damn man, this is amazing. I wish I had the knowledge to build something like this. Looks like I need an "electronics for dummies" book.
It's not that bad, just keep watching videos!
Great video and I love your high quality workmanship. In Australia I’m currently able to buy locally 80Ah CALB sells for $85 AUD each, which is great value 😊
Lucky!
Hi Steve, can you please share where you get your CALB batteries from? I am going to replace my AGM in my camper.
G T , this is the supplier www.solar4rvs.com.au
Thanks for the reply, I will check them out as I am in Melbourne and hopefully be able to go and see them in person.
Very cool build!! I have built a few similar boxes using 18650s and small plastic HF ammo boxes. I never thought of this larger box for a 100 Ah trolling motor power cell I built. I have the same bms which comes from Battery Hookup for about $85, fyi. I also use a usb with volt meter built in to save a little space. How are you securing the cells inside the case so they don't jump around in case it gets turned upside down? Thanks for the demonstration, it is very innovative. You have inspired me to add some cigarette plugs and a couple of LED back up lights for after dark. Thanks
The batteries are heavy enough they won't be shifting around.....as long as I keep the case from falling out of my SUV or something. Thanks for watching, glad it could be helpful!
excellent production & explanation
Nice clean build. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Thanks! I got a 100ah even more cheap, simple version coming soon! Just getting all the parts together. Can you believe that?! haha
Excellent ideas and video! Thank you for sharing! 😎
Great video. Looked at the link for the battery cells and notice a 85800 mAh power station on sale for $249.99 which is less than what it would cost to build one these today.
The prices have dropped quite a bit since my video, 100ah are priced as low as $175!! The larger cells might not work in the case I used in the video but all the principles are the same, just find a larger case to use.
Well done! very nice - clean, functional!
Thanks! I built a newer one using more power (100ah) in the same box, check out that video on my channel, super recent video.
Nice build my man, I have got a 40AH LifePo4 battery and would love to build some similar but with a nicer case that would support MC4 solar cables too for on the go charging. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated really.
Thanks! I have a newer larger build I am doing right now. 100 ah LIFEPO4 for dang cheap! Video will coming out soon. I think you'll find it really useful. The cells are also here in the usa so fast shipping!
@@Jasonoid Need to see this. Looking to build a portable supply for week-long camping trips to charge phones, batteries, run lights and fans, etc.
@@duanevigue1603 you can see the build here: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Very thorough and informative build Jason! Thx for sharing. Was wondering if you had ever thought of using Li-Ion before choosing to use Li-Po instead before the build? Am trying to choose either to use these both for my build as well. So thought of getting your thoughts on it first. Li-ions are cheaper but has lower capacity on each battery, Li-pos are much more pricy but has higher capacity on it. But which one lasts longer in the long run?
Lifepo4 have 2500 cycles at least per cell if treated correctly, lithium Ion only have 500. Lithium ion are a fire risk, especially for a diy project. I would stick with lifepo4, they are slightly heavier, but are very safe!
Check out the SOK 100ah batteries, they are very good quality but they have the built in BMS already that has the low temp cutoff. For complete diy aliexpress has many cells to choose from, you just chose the middle ground pricing on cells, I avoided the dirt cheap ones and the most expensive ones.
@@Jasonoid thank you on reply Jason, much appreciated. Will have a look on those battery u suggested. Again tq and keep those videos coming!
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to trying it out here in the South African bush!
This video is a little newer and goes over the build process pretty well. ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
@@Jasonoid Awesome thanks for sharing, I will be checking it out for sure.
@@hhonneysett Ive used mostly adjustable power supplies, CC/CV style with 10 amp limit and a 60 amp limit, they work well.
@@Jasonoid Awesome thanks Jason!
looks great and I like the military-style as well .. one thing that I would like to tell you is lithium's voltage change during the power draw is very different with lead aid battery . they hold up voltage around 13V pretty much steady over 60~80 percent of life cycle depend on the size or package . so be aware that voltage will not tell you many things like it did in lead aid :D
What is the best way to monitor state of charge without spending $200+? I looked at some cheaper options on Amazon but they didn't look promising.
@@juliogonzo2718 I'm not sure how much money you will spend on lithium battery but 200 shouldn't bother you if that guaranty longevity of your most expensive investment but if you still want to save some money look at the link below there are option allows you to calculate total amount of watts by monitoring and it won't give you the actual SOC(stage of charge) and just calculate how much energy came out only so you need to know how much energy coming in your PV by yourself then you can calculate SOC.
@@juliogonzo2718 cheap monitoring device shorturl.at/csuIR
Correct, the BMS does a pretty good job displaying remaining power. It also tracks power used over time. Would recommend using that BMS. The Bluetooth functionality is great!
I LIKE your setup!!!
Very nice bro like what you have accomplished
Hi Jason great video,how do you charge the battery , what size ,type of charger do you need.
Thanks Mike
Hey Mike, make sure you check out my newer 100ah build as well. It's better than this one: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
As for your questions... I use a couple different dedicated lifepo4 chargers. My solar mppt / DC to DC charger is the Kisae DTM1250. Excellent dual input charger.
My ac charger is a circuit specialists 15v 60amp charger. You can find it on their website.
I use the positive and negative connections from the Anderson powerpole connections to charge.
Very neat job❗️ I am just now starting to build mine. Thank fo good tips✅👍
You're welcome, I am almost finished building a second iteration of this but using 100ah LiFePO4 cells. Stay tuned to the channel for that video soon. Might help provide some other refined ideas.
@@Jasonoid I just went and took a look at your channel and liked what I saw so I subscribed and I will be looking at some of your videos❗️ Thanks
@@mikemiles3068 Happy to answer any questions, enjoy!
Great job, very interesting for DIY. can i have the diagram of the wiring connection sir? thank you.
Check the video time stamps, they show when the video shows the wiring diagram.
Great build! Mine are very similar all though my cabling is not as neat 😄. Have you thought of putting a solar charger in there to be able to hook up a panel? I've done so in both my setups and it works great in summer trips ^^
This one I could probably fit a very small mppt charge controller in the case. I have since built a new 100ah battery that's a little better / easier to assemble than this one. It uses batteryhookup 100ah modules. You can view it here:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Thanks a lot for this video. As I am building my version 2 solar generator hence watching a tons of videos related this and undoubtedly this one can be said one of the best video I have watched. Indeed, I have already watched this video couple of times due to few instruction/parts list. I have one question though related to the Anderson connectors. In this build, it looks like you have mounted a 4 port Anderson plug flush mount whereas your all other connectors look like those are mini-Anderson plug type. May be this is a naive question but does the mini Anderson power-pole connectors fit in the regular Anderson port ? In fact I am purchasing the connectors but cant be sure how those are compatible.
The Anderson power pole connections, the plugs and ports, are all the 30amp size.
Great video. And thanks for the links in the Description.
Thanks for the video.
You bet!
Very detailed and unique presentation.
Glad you liked it!
Great explanation. I need to do it for my van. My question is with dc dc charger can I have it charged as I move vehicle, solar when is parked. I have fridge, instant pot, tel and tablet. Thank you in advance
Check out the Kisae DTM1250, I have it and it supports both solar and DC to DC Charging as you want. Awesome charger! I'll have a video out on it soon.
Great video! Thanks.
Great Video! I enjoyed and very much appreciated the step by step explaination for everything.
I like the layout inside and out. I think I will try making this one for camping.
Do they have Anderson Plugs with a Cover Cap like the other connections to keep out dirt and debris?
You'll like this newer build much more, better price and more storage:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
I have a full parts list on my website as well.
@@Jasonoid Great! Thank you, I'll checkout your website. Do they have Anderson Plugs with a Cover Caps?
I see a problem at the anderson power connectors. the pairs are not separated so a mugwump can easily plug into the middle 2 and achieve reverse polarity. The pairs need to be separated by a divider of some sort.
Usually they flip them over 50/50, I guess I better do that for safety, thanks for the heads up. I guess I missed that when assembling the pairs.
Why the 20 amp fuse for the front panel I/O when the inverter is rated for 300W? Wouldn't the 20 amp fuse trip if you are pulling anything over 240W AC power?
I agree this build wasn't perfect and I didn't expect this build to get so much attention. I have built a new battery box with that in mind that has a much better design, more capacity, and proper wiring setup.
Great video! Question for you tho… you are charging using the BMS Ground and the positive terminal of all your cells? Just want to make sure I get the how you get there.
I connect my lifepo4 battery charger to the Anderson power pole connections on the front of the battery box. Those directly connect to the positive and negative terminals of the battery (fused of course). The BMS is installed in line of the negative terminal. Does that make sense?
Nicely done sir!
Thanks!
Please review recommended cell orientation for your cells. Most prismatic cells have to be orientated vertically not horizontally, otherwise it will damage cells over time. Cylindrical cells can be mounted horizontally.
Correct, I don't push these cells at high loads so they shouldn't have an issue leaking, just pull 10 amps or so running small gadgets and 12v fridges.
I built a new 100ah version using cylindrical cells, put the video put yesterday, it's a better build.
I'm not an expert for LiFePo4 batteries, but connecting the cells directly in parallel would damage at least a LiIon or LiPo battery (if not destroy them) if the charge state of the individual cells differs too much. Usually, you should check the cells voltage and bring them to the same level if necessary before connecting the cells together in order to prevent to high current flows between the cells.
Is this different for these cells or is it simply a mistake on your part?
They were very similarly charged, just was a final step to balance them together.
The Anderson connectors can be used for both charging and discharging? Seems logical but in my mind I assumed those 2 things would be separate circuits?
So just think of the anderson terminals just like the terminals on a car battery. Allows charging and discharging at the same point. You car alternator is charging but accessories are using power at the same time.
@@Jasonoid Yup, makes sense. When I built mine I built in the solar charge controller with an SAE connector on the outside, so I think I would add a separate charge port for an AC charger to go direct to the battery.
I would love to see a 3.0 with a solar charger installed. I'm a good diy'er but have been nervous to try and build a solar generator but at the same time I'm dieing to build one
Check out my newest 100ah build on my channel, it uses better cells and is much easier to put together!
Very nice instructions. I would build one if you could come up with a kit offer for one-stop shopping like the Heath Kits I used to build, with 100% guaranteed success.
Have you had any issues with laying the batteries on their side?
Very good video!
Glad you liked it! I made a newer version on my channel using more affordable BatteryHookup LiFePO4 cells. Check it out.
Hi, do you think you can put a solar charge controller inside this box? If yes what kind of charge controller will you consider? Thanks!
I just put out this video showing a possible option: ruclips.net/video/B9S-n3rbVWs/видео.html
@21:53
"A fridge can basically keep your food completely cold..."
LOL
I’m glad he said it. It was a mystery to me why they would keep a lightbulb cold
great video and tutorial but I was wondering if I built this and put three in series for 36v system to power a trolling motor. Do you think it is doable? the trolling motor draws a max current of 43Amps at full power. thanks
It might be easier to manage if you just built a 36v battery. There are BMS systems designed for 36v. Check out those videos on the youtubes
Awesome portable setup ⚡️!!! I’m looking at making a box for my Nissan Leaf batteries to make it easier to remove from my Rv during the winter months!
I looked at Nissan leaf modules, they were pretty cool! Good luck on your build! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the reply! I plan on doing a 24 volt bank comprised of 6 modules. Hopefully get 350 amp hours 🙌🏻 . I like the battleborn brand but I can’t justify the pricing 😅. I have a build series here on RUclips. The goal is to reno a vintage Rv on a modest budget with the capability to go off grid ! Your builds are so neat and I’ve learned a great deal ! Keep pushing the content!
@@WeRoamtheUnknown that sounds like an awesome project, you'd be able to run quite a bit off a power bank that big. Good luck! Thanks for the support
Great video. I've been on the suggested BMS page and I have a couple of questions:
1) How do you choose the BMS according to the amps drawn ? For example, I plan to use the battery for a trolling motor that draws 34 A max. So the 60 A BMS should be ok, right ?
2) I noticed that you used a circuit breaker. However, on the BMS page, on the app screenshot, it seems to show (scroll down) an "Hardware short protection" and "Hardware overcurrent protection". Wouldn't these make the circuit breaker redundant ? And what's the difference between them ? I guess the circuit breaker is there just in case....
Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You'll be good with the 60amp BMS, you can always go higher for future projects if you think youll get a bigger motor. I used the circuit breaker style switch in order to power down all ports and front controls. It just a benefit it also works as a circuit breaker.
Ozne_ Yesterday I got my 200 amp hour lithium battery with integral BMS and no plastic case. I replaced a similar 100AH unit. This is for a modified Minn Kota trolling motor battery box that has a factory 60 amp circuit breaker on the terminals. The box is used to power up medical equipment where there is no AC power and trees block sunlight to solar panels. But it would probably work very well to run a 35 amp trolling motor for a long time. Did you build it?
@@kimmer6 I ended up buying a built battery. The main problem I'm having is overheating of the speed controller
Do you have a version of these plans for using Bioenno LiFePO4 batteries? I ask because those have the BMS built-in.
I don't have any plans for those batteries.
Fantastic build. It would be great if you could do version III with a power inverter, A/C power supply and a solar controller so it could also provide 110v A/C and be charged from solar panels or grid power. Thanks. !:- )
Those are some great ideas!
Fixin to have a viral video. Million plus views!!!
Thanks for watching! I sure hope so!
Wonderful ideas! I won't be sleeping well for the next couple of nights! Is it possible to charge this arrangement by simply plugging into a automobile's 12v accessory port? I know it won't be rapid, but it would charge the unit while driving, right?
Again, thanks for the wonderful idea!
You'll want to charge the battery using a lithium lifepo4 based charger. There are many available. If it has DC input you could charge it with your vehicle 12v accessory port. Thanks for watching!
@@Jasonoid Have you sourced a reasonable DC-DC charger? I'm not sure how boxes like Jackery are getting all this stuff in there! Charge controller, inverter, DC-DC-charger. AND the batteries! How do they do that??? One of my primary uses will be to run a DC refrigerator while on the road. I really need to be able to charge from my alternator, even if it is slow. How do you manage your refrigerators while on the road?
While on the road and while driving, I run my fridge off my 12v accessory port in the back of my 4Runner, I custom installed Anderson power ports and ran 8 gauge wire to the back. It works well and I don't have much voltage drop over the distance.
While camping or when I'm not driving I run my fridges off this Lifepo4 battery. I charge it via a combo charger. It's a Kisae DTM1250. Check it out the, I bought one and I love it. Little expensive but very customizable. Solar MPPT and DC to DC Charging in one! I bought it off Amazon.
After looking around (and being appalled at the prices for DC-to-DC chargers), I've started playing around with DC buck boost converters you can buy on ebay/Alli Express, etc. These are basically self-contained power supplies that feature constant voltage and current and will easily step up or step-down voltage from inputs between 5 and 30 volts and outputs of .5 to 30volts. They are pretty limited to relatively low amperage (usually less than 4 amps), but for my purposes it should work, I think, for slowing charging my LiFePo4 battery from the car's electrical system while driving. There is also a timer feature that will turn the output off after a predetermined amount of time.
There is the added plus of now having a self-contained module that can be used to run all sorts of less-than/more-than 12 volts in my battery box. The model I'm using has a display built right in, so it's very easy to dial up the desired voltage and amperage requirements to run fans, worklights, etc that may be rated at something other than 12 volts.
I'll report back with details of my testing....
@@quinbus51 please let me know what you end up doing!
Great build and thanks for the video!
Glad you liked it!
@@Jasonoid I was nodding my head for almost the entire video. I just finished a build this weekend and used the same battery chemistry, same case, same circuit breaker and Anderson PP connectors :) Geek telepathy apparently.
@@nikoargeres8156 NO WAY! That's awesome :) I'm sure we will love these setups! You running fridges as well?
@@Jasonoid Yes, I have the ICECO jp40. I decided to run the Anderson plugs in my battery box so I could move away from using the cigarette receptacle, which seems to want to wiggle out when off-roading.
@@nikoargeres8156 Thumbs up man! Good to hear. I'd love to see your setup. You should post a video on it on your channel. LifePO4 stuff is only going to get more popular!
Sorry for naive question should cell be position vertically so the gravity remain equal between + and -
Some people say the cells need to oriented vertically, I haven't had any issues with mine being sideways. They've been that way for over a year. Maybe if someone was pushing 80amps all the time it may be an issue.
Thanks for the video, quite informative. How is the BMS holding up? Can you set a cutoff voltage through the phone app, so when the battery charge drops below a certain voltage the power just cuts out?
Looks like quite good value, considering it for my first camping battery project. Tx
Bms is completely customizable with the Bluetooth app, still working great! I use my battery all the time!
Hello. I really liked the video and it has me wanting to try and build my own box too. I did have a few questions though. The batteries in the link are now $159. Are they the correct batteries? They are much cheaper than what you originally described. What AC charger do you recommend? Also, if you use a 100 watt solar panel to charge like the Rockpals, do you need a charge controller wired in or does the BMS serve that function too? Thanks for your informative work!
You'll want to have a lithium based charger to charge it properly, those can be either AC or DC powered. There are multichargers available that support more than one input, for example solar, DC or ac charging. (check out the Kisae DTM1250, it's amazing!).
The price of batteries have dropped significantly because the larger 280ah cells are very popular right now. You can always spend more money for these types of cells. With cheap batteries you'd probably get around 95% advertised capacity, which I think is worth it for the cost.
An active cell balancer is usually required for unbalanced cells, you can get a pretty cheap one off Amazon, it worked really good for my battery pack. Will Prowse has a couple videos on the subject.
Just plan to get good at soldering. It's been such a fun project and I have learned a lot. My next build will be a bigger 280ah build. Just saving money for those batteries.
Nice box. Ideally safety vent (and terminals) should be pointing upwards though
Thanks for the tip
Hello. very beautiful video. I'm building a 280Ah battery. however, your BMS can only handle 120ah. do you have another recommendation? I am thinking of the Heyo BMS 250ah. or are there other alternatives?
I just have researched this specific model, I haven't looked at anything bigger. Best wishes finding something that works for you! Thanks for watching!
How did you combine the 3 BMS wire ends into 1 terminal? Are the BMS wires 10 AWG?
I used a large terminal lug that supported 6 awg wires and soldered/crimped it in there. I purchased this set and I use these all the time for projects:
amzn.to/2Zp09md
whats the max Amp output? and How much does it Weigh in lbs.. Was looking into making something like this for my car audio system currently I have 3 Xs power 3400 batteries...They all weigh quite a bit and weigh down the back of the car. I would need something I can draw quite a few amps from at once.. I'm pushing like 9000 W RMS
Weighs like 25 lbs, usually they can handle 1c discharge rate, so 80 ah is 80 amps.
@@Jasonoid Nice and light but I don't think it would be able to handle it.. system is Drawing too many amps ..
Hi.. thank you for good explanation and detail of project.
May I ask you how to recharge battery?
Cheers
I use the Anderson power pole ports. I charge it with a Kisae DTM1250 DC to DC charger. It takes both DC input from my alternator or with MPPT solar input.
@@Jasonoid thank you for your reply. can I have a look how to connect DC to DC charger to your battery ?
I will have a video out on it soon. Just keep checking back for it in the next month or so. It's pretty simple.
I came here for the same question. Would I be able to charge this with my renogy 100w solar suitcase that already has the charge controller by alligator clipping to the main terminals inside the box?
@@deanwhittle2669 Most people would advise against it because that battery charger is designed for lead acid batteries....BUT technically it would work because it would charge the battery up to 14.2 volts and the LiFePO4 BMS would shut off the charging. I have used a lead acid charger on my battery in the past in a pinch, BUT I always recommend someone purchase a designated lithium based charger.
Nice video, I bought the fan. Where did you buy the barrel cigarette lighter? Thanks
Maybe you can clarify what part / adapter you are referencing in your comment?
I think you meant this Female 12v Cig socket: amzn.to/3Bb0Gc1
I bought the female adapter and then put AndersonPP on the end. I have a video about making Anderson Powerpole cables from about a month ago on my channel
@@Jasonoid thanks for the fast response. I bought the Treva 12v fan. It run on the switching adapter that comes with the fan or batteries. Like you, I don't think I want to run using batteries. My plan is to run the fan using the LiFePO battery box that have the cigarette plug. You mentioned barrel connector and I could not find a link in your video where to purchase the adapter.
@@dummy4100 Ahhhh, so that Treva fan has a 5521mm barrel connector for power. So you'll want this cable adapter:
amzn.to/3D9ofnh
12v cigarette plug to DC 5521mm barrel plug. Then you can power the fan off 12volts.
@@Jasonoid Thanks, I knew you have the answer for me.
Do you recommend putting a battery monitor for the case.. If yes, do you have a recommendation ?
The BMS I used for the build has a Bluetooth app that shows absolutely everything about the battery. Very useful!
@@Jasonoid That I am planning to use, but wanted to check if there is a LCD one I can use.. mostly because family will be using it more than I will and just wanted it be idiot proof.
@@jbphoto8238 good idea! Iust Google lifepo4 battery meter and you'll see some options. Just check out the reviews before purchasing it.
Great build! Question, can the batteries be charged through the Anderson power pole connectors?
That's how I charge this battery, I made an adapter for my charger to AndersonPP and it works great.
Have two questions, 1. we need 2 fuse holders and one 30amp / 20amp fuse which is not in the list below 2. Can I plugin the solar power panel / car battery 12v output through a MPPT or i need a DC to DC convertor as you have in the comments.
You can charge it via the Anderson power pole connections as long as you have a MPPT designed for lithium batteries. The fuse holders can be found on amazon, get at least 8 to 10 gauge holders
@@Jasonoid Thanks a lot .. I got both.. will shortly send some pictures after I complete the build
Do you need to regulate the 12v plug for your fridge to work correctly?
Lifepo4 has a higher voltage than lead acid so no regulation needed. Voltage ranges from an average of 13.3v to 12v at the lowest point.
To help keeping from damaging the batteries when hooking them up it's a good idea to have a discharger. Empty battery is safer to work with 👍
The cells weren't fully charged when I connected them but I could have discharged them more. Appreciate the tip! Thanks for watching!
Very clear video, thanks dear
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! I'm trying to get the best option for a Lifepo4 bat like this for a while to run my astrophotography setup in remote areas.
Few questions, because I'm kind of a noob in this area:
1. How do you charge it? Can you use the powerpole panel, or some croc clamps go onto the main + and - bolts? (also I think I heard once, you can only charge cells like this separately). Do you have a charger you recommend? (unfortunately I'm based in the EU, so would might not find the model in your video)
2. You can adjust the voltage with the BMS for discharging I assume - how does that affect the charging process?
3. Raising the voltage (e.g. I run my setup on 13.8V) doesn't raise it on the USB ports? (yeah, super amateur question :D)
Thanks!
Usb ports are fixed at 5v so no need to worry about that
12v ports will put out full voltage. Just FYI that cars have about 14.2 volts while the engine is running so this is still less.
I charge it from a lifepo4 charger via the Anderson power pole connections but you can also do it from the main terminals. Any lifepo4 designed charger will work.
@@Jasonoid thanks, appreciate the help! Actually I don't mind the voltage being around 13.2-.13.8V, if there is way to set it up somehow on the BMS :)
@@balimester1595 BMS I used is 100% configurable via Bluetooth, I love it. (if you buy the Bluetooth adapter)
awesome video, thanks for your effort and time
Appreciate the comment! Hopefully you feel confident enough to build your own soon!
@@Jasonoid just looking on AliExpress the links you provided for the cells and for a "lot of 4" is only $168 at this time.... + a BMS and box is such an affordable project. ....
@@Farang_Lifestyles they used to be over $500 for 4 80ah cells
The charger you have listed below the video is what you are using to charge the 4S system???
Hey Vandall, I use a smart charger that supports Lithium batter types. There are many available on the market. I recently found an AWESOME DC to DC charger that supports both a DC input and Solar input so you can charge with your vehicle at high amps or with solar panels with high amps. Pretty slick!
Kisae DTM1250 is the name of the charger. I'll put a video out on it once winter is over, lame cold weather!
So the on/off toggle switch has 2 positive leads?
Yeah, it's an inline switch. It just connects and disconnects the positive line to turn it off and on.
How long would the battery pack power your frig/freezer set up?
I made a newer 100ah version of this lifepo4 battery box, it has better cells and is easier to build. You can view it here:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
It will power a 12v fridge for a week or so, depending on ambient temps and the fridge setpoint
Quick question.
If I wanted to build a 200amp Hour box, would I need a BMS that is rated to 200amps? If so, any on Ali-express you can recommend?
They don't make 12v 200amp bms units because the amps would be crazy high. If you want to run 200amps you'd want a 24v or 48v battery. I think Will Prowse has a couple higher amp units he's recommended on his channel. I have a new 100ah battery I am making from Battery Hookup in the next couple months. I'd recommend checking out their 100ah modules, they are a great price and super compact!
@@Jasonoid that is correct, search on aliexpress there are several good quality BMS's available ( or google them ) for 24v which help you do this. You would also need to get batteries / bigger case, etc ) the over all design which Jason provided would just work great
Hi,
The LifePo4 cells from AliExpress, there are made in China ? What happens if the product is defective, and you have to pay for shipping them back to China?
Also would it be possible to use these in an EV setting by putting 2 or more units in parallel ?
Thanks
All Lifepo4 cells are manufactured in China right now. They are working on building factories here in the usa though. Check out my newer 100ah battery build video, it's better and much easier to put together: ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Will the BMS protect cells from over-discharging if you forget to turn off load?
Yes, and you have the ability to program each value exactly how you want it. I love this BMS!
i wanted to build something similar except include a solar charge controller as well. should i wire in the positive of the charge controller to the main breaker, or direct to the battery? if i go direct to the battery will the charge controller always be on and draining my battery?
As for draining the battery it depends on the charge controller. Most have some sort of parasitic drain. Its good to fuse that connection so I'd put it behind the breaker if I were you. Check out this super compact charge that works well with Lifepo4, it's the smallest I could find:
ruclips.net/video/RKi6wSfELl8/видео.html
@@Jasonoid thanks. I think I might add a smaller breaker just for the charge controller so I don't need to turn everything on to charge.
Your diagram was a big help. Most videos show a rats nest of wires and its hard to follow where they all go.
This is my more recent build. It has more capacity (100ah vs 80ah). The batteries are also sold in the USA so they are faster to ship. You can view the video here:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Enjoying the video and how to information. One comment, with the volume up enough to hear you well the music played during the assembly section is notably louder causing me have to turn it down. Common complaint of mine with about 99% of youtube content makers, never have figured out why that is so common. A lower volume for the music section than the content voice over would be highly preferable to this viewer.
Audio levels are actually the same decibel level on both sections. So technically I would need to have the music volume much less than the voice audio.
@@Jasonoid Wow, interesting. Just one old guy's opinion. You have really piqued my interest in building one of these systems. I envision it being used during a back country hunting trip in MT fall 2021, but find myself now concerned about the freezing issue and whether or not it could be recharged. Curious as to how much "gadget" recharging could be done from one full charge. Could see using it to run a small 12v fan to circulate heat in a tent for example.
@@bucmeister7713 I'd recommend going with larger cells because they aren't that much more expensive. Like 280ah cells would last probably a week charging small electronics and running a small 12v fan. If I were to do it again I'd use 200+ amp hour cells
@@Jasonoid Good to know as that would be an awesome amount of power. Thank you for that advice. Been looking at these cells a lot after watching a video wherein a guy replaced his lead acid camper batteries with packs built out of the 280ah cells, said he got double the usable energy per cycle. The battery technology these days is attention grabbing for sure. Figure once the holy grail of solid state is achieved much more of our daily lives will convert to electric. Maybe the solid state technology will not be as cold temp sensitive.
How about next time we double the battery & add a 2000 watt inverter?
I'll save up my money for while haha Thanks for watching!
@@Jasonoid That's what I was thinking. Some thing to run a refrigerator when the power is out, and can be recharged with solar. Also, maybe build the basic battery, BMS, 1000 or 2000 watt inverter, solar charger, and then have it so we can build more batteries in the future and daisy chain them for a larger and larger bank.
I know the battery is the big expense, but maybe build an "EMERGENCY" box using deep cycle lead acid for now, and then upgrade to lithium later when more funds are available, but at least for starters you have some thing for an emergency that can be used hard for a few weeks if need be.
A 1000 watt inverter to keep a refrigerator going, run a microwave, TV and basic charging of cell phones and what not, or upgrade to a 2000 watt to maybe run all that, and a hot plate or some thing for cooking on. It's a lot of power being drawn, but that's why you can daisy chain batteries as needed, and have a couple solar panels as well.
Personally, I'm not building some thing like this to take camping to air up a mattress, or charge batteries for tools, I mean that's cool and fun and all, but for "ME", I'd spend a few hundred more dollars and make it really usable for all that fun stuff, AND FOR REAL emergencies.
Some thing for REAL emergencies, it should be able to be recharged from the grid or gen set, solar, and a vehicles charging system.
I'm in Louisiana, and we lost power for only 14 hours a few weeks ago when the hurricane hit, but if I was just 40 miles west in Lake Charles, I would be without power for weeks. I have a gen set, but this would be great to use along with it.
Some thing else that would be handy I think, is a built in retractable extension cord mounted, probably on the outside. I'm thinking some thing along the lines of a vacuum cleaner cord, as they're pretty durable, can handle a good amount of power, they're cheap, compact, around 20 foot long cord, and easy to mount. Of course you'd have to replace the male end with a female, but that's no biggie. Now you really do have a very handy self contained box.
For reference, here's what I'm thinking.
evacuumstore.com/p-311-electrolux-plastic-canister-cord-winder-assembly.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo-CGl87r6wIVEdbACh2uoQQjEAQYBSABEgJ7jPD_BwE
A bunch on ebay.
www.ebay.com/i/312867187883?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312867187883&targetid=935694488106&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9025259&poi=&campaignid=10877145111&mkgroupid=105798873063&rlsatarget=pla-935694488106&abcId=9300400&merchantid=108357416&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo-CGl87r6wIVEdbACh2uoQQjEAQYASABEgID-fD_BwE
Keep up the great work.
What battery pack did you use from aliexpress. There’s a few options, do i go with the 105 amp one?
I used 80ah battery cells. I'm not sure if the 105 AH cells would fit in the case I used. There are many 80AH cells on Aliexpress, just find one that mentions they are grade A cells
I am just learning about life po4 batteries. Would this type of an application work for a small (max 20a draw) trolling motor ona kayak or do i need to fork out the cash for a "deep cycle" life po4? Thanks.
All Lifepo4 batteries are technically deep cycle. You can discharge them 80% without permanent damage. 20amps is a lot of power draw. If you want the battery to last longer than 3 hours you'd want to get something larger but use the same principle in my video to build it. 200ah or even 280ah batteries have come down in price quite a bit recently. If you have room for a larger battery I would recommend a larger capacity.
I only have an average of 5 amp draw and my 80ah battery works great for me.
Good video
Hello I was just wondering how long you could expect to run a Dometic 55im fridge off of a build like this. I believe it pulls 1.1 ah/h. So I would assume 80hrs then? Sorry I’m new to the battery game. Just tired of all the promoted reviews of the big names jackery bluetti etc. Seems like building one would be a more reliable option.
DIY is a great to save money and get more battery storage. I tested and got about 72ah out of my battery and thought it was well worth it. Fridges can run quite awhile and infinitely with solar or a DC to DC charger (kisae DTM1250) is what I use for solar and DC Charging.
@@Jasonoid awesome thank you so much for the reply!
I'm looking to build a box just like yours with a few add on features that I need. I'm a complete novice when it comes to electric and could use some guidance. Would you be open to having some dialog to help me out? I'd appreciate not sending myself to an early grave 🤣
Check out this video, easier version and better steps for the install. Also I have a full parts list and wiring guide on my website:
ruclips.net/video/uN1h0XIpfTg/видео.html
Nice video, I'm new to all this. Can you tell me the difference between your diy project and buying a Jackery 150. Seems the diy cost alot more. Don't get me wrong I live diy projects.
The Jackery 150 has only 150 watt hours of storage, you'd have to buy the Jackery 1000 to match this power. Nothing wrong with purchasing a product. I have a recent 372 watt hour solar generator review video on my channel for only $250, you might want to check out that video.
Hi, From France! Vers great And instructive vidéo.
I’d like to build this for m’y astrnomy activity IN high mountains.
Is it possible adding a second cigarette lighter? (Structural plan?)
Is it possible adding a fifth cell 20 Ah (100Ah)?
And finally, how and where do you connect your box for charging?
Thanks a lot for all!
It's a 4s battery so you'd have to buy larger capacity cells to get more storage you can add as many 12 volt sockets as you want. I use a stock lifepo4 charger and it works well! Thanks for watching!
@@Jasonoid Thank you.
Could you please, tell me the reference of your two chargers ? (solar and home)?
Do you connect them on the Anderson PowerPole?
Regards,
@@fabvisunature I use the Anderson power pole connections to charge the battery
Do you have a suggestion for a different box for this. The TMC has been out of stock for a while now and I cannot seem to find it locally.
Dang, I'm sorry you can find it. They have a green one that's very similar, have you seen that one in stock?
@@Jasonoid I found it finally at one of the arms seller.. wish amazon had it in stock and I did not have to run around in circles :) ..
Can I install let's say 150A BMS to cells like this? Or how can I calculate what is the max Amps BMS I can install?
LiFePO4 batteries can usually discharge max at a 1C rate, or 100% of their power. For example, these 80ah cells can discharge at 80 amps max, 100ah cells can discharge at 100 amps max. To get 150 amps you'd want at least 150amp hours worth of batteries or go with a 24v system.
@@Jasonoid ahhh, perfect, easy :) thank you so much :)