Engine Backfires on a Craftsman Riding Mower with a Kohler Command Engine. Flywheel Key?
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Easy DIY video on how to replace a sheered, broken flywheel ( woodruff ) key.
This bad key is causing the machine to backfire when trying to start.
This repair works on riding mowers, zero turns, brands like.... Cub Cadet John Deere MTD AYP Husqvarna Poulan Pro Murray Troy Bilt Craftsman Honda Toro Snapper and many more.
Engines like Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki and many others.
Engine Backfires on a Craftsman Riding Mower with a Kohler Command Engine. Flywheel Key?
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#nostart
#kohler
#craftsman
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Sorry about the sound quality, I was having some microphone issues.
I have this exact same engine on a ZTR. This is the first sheared fw key I've ever seen on a riding mower.
Nice tip using a socket to protect the bolt head. Thanks!
Thank you, my friend
No it's not. An air hammer and pry bar is where it's at. Plus you don't have to crawl on your hands and knees looking for flying sockets.
OMG Thank you so much I have a JD STX38 hydro and keeps backfiring Thanks!
Wow t bone knocked you off the seat . Never seen thay much with the flywheel bolt that sheared the key . Good catch on that one
I must say, your a lot like me . I set down screws, parts and tools then spend half hour looking for them when putting it back together, but love your videos , your to the point.
You're one good teacher. I learn something every time I watch. Thank you
I have a Toro super recycler with the Briggs 163 cc engine and occasionally it backfires during starting or re-starting. I was concerned that the valves might need adjustment. But I may need to check the key after watching your video. Thanks for showing me how.
Hi T-bone never commented before but love your videos . I retired & do alot of small engine repairs in my garage also. You have help me out in the past . Ty . You get right to the point in your work . Great job , no pissing around like some people . Lol, well, have a great weekend .Your friend Harley from Saskatoon . ( Canada) 😂😂
Thank you for watching, commenting and subscribing my friend.
This is an awesome video. A friend gave me a lead to check this on my LT150 John Deere. Thanks for the clear documentation so I know what I am looking for.
Had one recently was backfiring it blowed the center of the muffler that is perforated out. Was the two positive battery cables only about one strand of wire on each.... replaced both wires and it was fixed. Looked like something wrenched the wires back and forth.... John Deere... Briggs and Stratton...was under the red boot at the battery terminals...
Thanks T-bone, I have two Craftsman riding mowers doing the same thing, now I'm going to check those keyways
Yes sir a good ole whack with the hammer works every TIME!!!💯💪🏾
Yes it does
I’m pretty certain that’s my problem with my Kawasaki engine. Thanks for the instruction.
Amazing, I would have figured that out in a yr or 2.
Always showing us some great information t bone. Hope things are good your way. Hopefully things are cooling off a little bit.
10 years in the business a have never seen a woodruff key in the flywheel sheared off clean like that. Just thinking that it was sheared due to a massive backfire possibly from a malfunction of the antibackfire solenoid? Good video what is you thought on this diagnosis?
It was due to the flywheel bolt not tight. That's why I loosened it with a hand ratchet. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Got it had one push mower come in with a loose flywheel bolt that totally destroyed the recoil pull starter
Fantastic diagnostic job thank you
I'm behind good news is I got two Raley's Small Engine videos to watch woooooooooooooo !!!!
🤣 omg 😲 😍
Great video. Fixed my problem! Thanks
Great job LaTom!!
People are not properly tightening the flywheels, they just don’t know how important it is to go by the specs😊
I was reading the comments. People are opting for stronger keys. They don't understand how important the torque is on the flywheel. The key is an alignment tool. It's not supposed the bear the load against it. That's the job of the taper and bolt.
More to it than bolt torque. Crank and FW need to be polished to allow proper clamping force by the bolt. You just don't toss in a new key and slam it down with an impact.
@@alext8828 Yup stupid people are looking for stronger keys. It's not about a stronger key fella. They are made to be sacrificial as to break before something expensive breaks.
Exactly
Good call.
Thank you
Great class on this one, keep them coming!
Really good information T-Bone, and well done Mrs T-Bone for the camera work 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
First one on a rider I’ve seen. Great video
Thank you
I think I just found out what is wrong with my Briggs ELS 22hp Twin ... I went thru everything , and it all checked out & my last straw was the only thing left that I haven't checked ... jumped time bc of a sheared Key-Pin !! 😯
Always super good Informational instruction. Thankyou Sir.
Glad you liked it my friend
Thanks!
Wow !!! THANK YOU!!!
Who makes your half moon keyways
I have multiple assortments. This one came from and assortment I purchased from Rotary Corp., you have to be a dealer to purchase from them.
Nice job T-Bone and the sound was just fine.
How'd the blades and spindles look, did the owner hit something to shear the key?
Hey Mrs T-Bone 👋
Thank you. Hey from Mrs T. Haven't looked yet, just filmed and edited today 1 hour before releasing at 5:30
Thanks and alrighty, was just curious bud. 🙂👍🏼
Hi, it's a good video!
How to reset the valve on this engine?
Can't wait for the camping
Thank you for video. Blessings to you.
Great show as always.
Thank you 😊
thank you sir for another video 👍😃
Thanks for watching and commenting my friend . We have some new cool stuff coming
Thank you for the video
Heck yeah!! Thanks for watching and commenting my friend
Wow! I hadn’t seen one of your videos lately so I actually went to your channel earlier today to see if one slipped by me. Speak of the devil! 😉🔧👍
😆 thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
@@RaleysSmallEngines
You really have a lot of experience with lawn tractors, so maybe you can put me in the right direction for solving a slight problem I’ve had with a White Outdoor/MTD LT542H. Something is making the Tecumseh 20HP V-twin with twin carb engine slow to start. Battery fully charged and valve lashes corrected long ago. I’ve ultrasonic cleaned the Vector carb bowls and integral parts plus replaced the 4 O-rings (The two at the bottom of the emulsion tubes were deformed and preventing the tubes from moving up and down). Confirmed fuel flows to carbs and solenoids function correctly. I’m pretty convinced it’s a fuel issue because once it fires it runs just fine. Will start immediately with a volatile sprayed into the intakes. I’ve run the tank dry and used fresh fuel with no change. I’m not familiar with how fast fuel should flow from the pump so the only thing I can think is the pump is just not making full pressure. Is that a possibility or is there something else of which I’m not aware going on?
T bone you always do a awesome job
Thank you
You are good love watching your videos
Thank you for supporting us!
Great catch there bro!
😆 🤣
May i ask how you knew it was a flywheel problem instead of a valve problem. I would have immediately went to the valves on a riding mower thank you in advance
I have craftsman tractor and it is the best tractor in the freaking universum. Theres nothing to question about it. If it backfires change the gas or check the valve caps. If nothing adjust the carb. There are no flaws only features. Thanks. Ps. Do not question. You can travel as far to the space as you can and never find better lawntractor. Only sand and stones. Period.
Great job brother 👏
Thank you
Nice Thank You
Thank you too!
Great video thanks for sharing
As usual thanks for the video. Where do you order your rotary 1/4 fuel filters and hose clamps? Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting. We order directly from Rotary, we are a dealer.
T-bone, Love your videos.
Could you do a short video on you shop layout and parts inventory and storage?
Great idea!
👍👍👍.Thank you
Very cool video, Tbone! Well done.
Thank you very much!
Only have seen sheared flywheel keys on push mowers and they sometimes jerk the pull ropes so bad it hurts. On something like this with a starter could it damage the starter or the teeth?
Yes !! It definitely let's ya know. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
Another excellent video. I've had to replace the woodruff (half moon) key on a mower once... I didn't know the trick about the pry bar and the hammer whack to loosen the flywheel. Cool. :)
Do you think single cylinder engines are more reliable than twins? Or are they about the same?
Thank you. Hard to answer that question. There are so many variables depending on brand, type and how they are maintained.
Twins are more complicated. A simple single cylinder Briggs is all you need. One ignition coil compared to two on a twin. 2 plugs and so on......
in accordance with department of transportation backfire is out the carburetor, afterfire is out the exhaust
True true.
You need to clean and polish the crank end and flywheel opening. Why? Because the crank and flywheel are tapered. These surfaces need to be CLEAN and polished to promote good clamping torque. As in not to allow the flywheel to move easily. THEN retorque the flywheel bolt at factory specs. Not just some impact gun thinking it's good.
Nice one. I suppose those keys are not hardened to a high Rockwell to protect the other components.
Thank you. Yes correct sir.
@@RaleysSmallEngines That’s a fast reply. Don’t you have anything better to do on a Saturday night?
Still working in the shop. Working on a 2 seat adult tricycle for camping. You will see it in the upcoming camping video. I'm repainting it this weekend.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Right up my alley. I have redone about three dozen bikes from the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s.
Awesome. The video coming out next week is how I bought the bike. I paid $200. It's a Worksman 2 seat three wheeler
Bulk keys are made of steel and usually will not sheer when needed. A sheer woodruff must be used or the next time it will break the flywheel or break the keyway out.
Yes soft keys are where it's at. No need for steel or any other hard metal keys in this application. They are soft to be sacrificial when needed.
Ats what I'm talking about... good call T-Bone
Thanks Rooster 🐓!!
A loose bolt is a strange thing to have happen to this engine to cause it to back fire 😮😮
Yes, but I've seen it a few times, that's what made me look at that first. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
@@RaleysSmallEngines your welcome raleys small engines
Hi thanks for your valuable video, i need help pls pls help me. I have kohle ch25s, its back fire and cranking but not started. Pls advise me
If it's not the flywheel key possibility cam shft jumped time or gear on crankshaft. Most commonly backfire is caused by flywheel key.
Great vodeo.... My Craftsman riding lawn mower with Kohler engine starts and runs just fine, however it back fires ONLY when you turn it off, what would cause it to back fire after turning off the key? Thanks
My Craftsman LT2000 had the same problem (Briggs & Stratton engine). I adjusted the valves and the backfire problem disappeared. You can find the valve specs for your Kohler engine online and there are plenty of videos here on RUclips that will show you how to adjust them. It's pretty easy, you just have to take your time and do it right. I hope this fixes your problem. It worked great for me. - Richie - P.S. You should also adjust/check the air/fuel mixture on your carburetor. If you smell gas, it's running too rich. That's the easiest thing to do. So I would do that first.
It's always good practice to idle the machine down before turning the key switch off...manufacturers added the solenoid to the bottom of carburetor to shut fuel off when turning off mower. That's why it's called an anti-backfire solenoid. Try it, if that doesn't help try what rvalens2 suggested. Good luck.
very helpfuj, thank you
I have a Murray riding lawn mower and it's very comparable to a Bolens riding lawn mower but on my Murray no more Murray riding lawn mower they said the engine is seized and locked up on them my question is can I switch out the motor are certain parts off the Bolens riding lawn mower use the parts to fix the Murray riding lawn mower
My Briggs and Stratton 17.5 HP was backfiring threw the carb. Guess what rhe problem was? Guess
🤣🤣🤣🤣 unbelievable! Don’t forget the regulator! dang! Toooooooooo easy T-Bone
I like that new Logo, you did an awesome job.
T bone is baddass😅
🤣 🤣 thank you
My Kawasaki FX651 is backfiring as described. Upon looking the key is fine. So could it be the fuel pump?
fuel pump will not cause backfire.
Try the spark plugs, LOL.
Where are you located
man down!!!
🤣 🤣 🤣
I have the same engine as this and mines doing the back fire on startup but its not the flywheel would you know what it would be????
Valve or carburetor issue but could be as simple as old fuel. Good luck.
@@Mrs.T-bone doing the head cuase carbs new
Follow on comment regarding GXV160...
After very light hone and new rings Iam reading 75 psi dry & 90 psi wet..
Some folks are suggesting that you can't put new rings in the old bore that has been "ball honed" and not machined...IE it may be slightly oval in shape thus allowing oil blow by.....what would be your experience T-bone?
Perhaps I should do a "leak down" test at TDC with compressed air in the plug hole to rule out a failed new head gasket?
Do you use RTV compound in addition to the new gasket or just a dry new gasket?
Hope you can give me some guidance....😊
Hey T-bone...G'day from Rodney in Melbourne Australia.
I put this comment on your older "diagnose your engine" video.... but I'll post here as well...
I need your advice on a Honda Buffalo HRU216D three speed (non blade brake model) self propelled mower that has the GXV160 engine...I think you call it a Honda Commercial in the USA.
I've had it from new (since about year 2001) and was struggling with a lack of power and puffing a bit of black smoke.
I checked compression and it was sitting low at about 38-40 psi dry reading and about 50 psi wet reading.
So I bit the bullet and I have completed the following works..
*New Carburetor
*Complete New Cylinder Head and gasket
*New coil
*Light hone of the bore to re-establish cross hatch
*New rings
Complete wash out of dirty black oil and light sludge in the crankcase...
It's just had it's first half hour of mowing and it is blowing a serious amount of blue smoke....I checked my oil level and it is at the half way mark on the dip stick cross hatches... so definitely not overfilled ...
I think the smoke is starting to subside as the rings bed in...but my question is how long should "running in smoke" be an issue?
I'm thinking of changing the oil after another hour of working the engine....and then either running genuine Honda 10W30...or if I'm still suffering (ring blow by smoke) going heavier to SAE30 no synthetic oil..your thoughts on bedding in time would be appreciated and your view on non friction modified premium mineral oil or heavier grade oil.
The rings, head and carb are ebay aftermarket as genuine Honda lead times and prices are hefty here in Australia...
Cheers Rodney in Melbourne
You answered you own question. Chinese Fleabay parts. So now it will cost you more that buying the proper OEM parts. You know Honda is out of the mower business now? Meaning no more parts for them. Plus Honda's are gutless in engine torque. I own a GXV160, it's lame. SAE 30w is your friend.
G'day Rick.just an FYI...the end result has been running a small catch can to collect oil that is spitting past the crankcase ventilation valve down the tube...in discussion with my local mower shop and the technical rep at Pentrite oil...the consensus is that the ball hones will follow the "shape" of the cast iron liner's bore and won't acheive a fresh circular bore....machining with a boring tool would've been the only way to remove the "ovalality"...regardless of genuine or aftermarket rings.
The pentrite guy reckons it's been an ongoing argument with his mates who rebuild their two-stroke trail bikes and arrive at the same conclusion.
Anyway...the catch can is collecting an ever decreasing small amount of oil....so I can now mow smoke free..and just keep an eye on my oil level every time I cut the grass...
Sorry....forgot to mention smoke only appears after engine comes up to operating temperature....about 20 minutes of running freeof smoke....then it's blue clouds in the backyard 😂
Sounds like head gasket failure. Do not use RTV.
True compression can only be read if you engine has a compression release the valves must be loosened.
A leak down test will give you an idea about the rings.
@Mrs.T-bone
Thanks for coming back to me Mr & Mrs T.... I enjoyed your fishing session with alligators....we have the Salt Water Crocodiles in far North Queensland....they don't leave witnesses!
I'll try some compressed air down the plug hole whilst at top dead centre... I reckon about 10 or 20psi ?...
I'm guessing I'll be listening for inlet or exhaust hissing....or gurgling in the oil filler tube?
....then revisit the head gasket with a new one....should I stone the mating faces of the head and top of the cylinder?
Cheers Rodney
Lapping the head would not be a bad idea. Also, you mentioned black smoke at the beginning...black smoke is burning fuel and blue or white is oil fyi. Good luck!
@Mrs.T-bone
Hi T-bone, I did my leak down test at TDC...I can hear the leaking sound only at the oil filler tube...nothing at exhaust or inlet... needle on the second gauge on the green just back from the "set" zero ...in the green band approx 15%.
So, I assume my light hone and new rings has left me with some ring"blow by".
I'm going to ditch the 10W30 and go to SAE30 mineral oil and see if I get a different result.
I'm getting about 20 minutes mowing smoke free...then blue smoke as it comes up to full temp...so perhaps I'll have to have a beer and engine cool down in-between front lawn and back lawn..I may not get up out of the chair to do the second run...😂
@Mrs.T-bone
Hey there T-bone...I wanted to give you a follow-up message.
So I checked the head and it was nice and flat..replaced head gasket...same issue blue smoke after the engine came up to working temperature....but I noticed fresh engine oil at the carbie inlet...pouring into the plastic air cleaner tube from the crankcase breather hose...so I ran it with the breather hose removed...hey presto blue smoke cleared up.
Can I put a ball bearing up that hose?...or can I run it into a little catch can?
What would cause so much oil to run down that breather hose?
Hope you might have a few suggestions...?
Cheers Rodney in Melbourne
Mine back farted every shut off but fixed itself..
🐊🐊🐊🐊Gator bait ? 😬
😆 🤣
I took off the flywheel and my key has good. Now what?
You can't do everything
I know what's wrong with it, it ain't got no gas in it
🤣 🤣
Good lesson