My advice to any young man starting out in life...you can never have too many clamps ! Love your clap and crack on...it's your signature. Thanks Alan...
It's such a joy to watch you put together this vessel and then I can't wait to see you when you put her in the water. God bless you and misses wave 🌊 Rover and all the good folks that are helping. Has always much peace and love from northeast Texas 🤠✌️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Im so excited for this build, ive long planned on building something mini650 sized with a larger cabin (for comfort and righting moment) smaller cockpit, and possibly twin keels for a small comfortable cruiser... i like your style the most so far out of all the youtube sailboat build vlogs..
@@RoversAdventure Apologies for the silly joke. I was just stirring up the fundamentalist Followers of the Wooden Boat. You’re obviously not one of those. My last boat was of a similar style construction wise. Wood and epoxy love each other and combine the best properties of both materials. I too tell people you’ll break the wood before you break the joint - an epoxy joint, particularly in ply, strengthens it rather than weakens it! Keep up the good work. I put a video of that build on YT if you or anyone is interested - search my name. Cheers
@@robinhodgkinson You sir are a real craftsman. I just watched your video. Excellent! I'm glad that you told me about it as I'm glassing tomorrow and I'm more sailor than boat builder so your video has been a timely tutorial.
@@RoversAdventure Yes, I applied the fg dry on the boat, poured on the epoxy and worked it along with a squeegee. The apply dry method means you’ll have to keep adding some epoxy as you go since the ply will suck the weave dry to a degree - what was too much epoxy, looks starved 5 mins later. But that’s no big deal, it soon saturates the ply. You just need to work back a few feet as you go along adding a little more epoxy. Handling dry means you can easily roll it on and position it. Pre-wet is good for small areas and difficult to get at situations but a mission to handle if you’re doing large areas, and there’s the danger of it setting off which it can quickly do if you are dealing with a whole roll of it pre wet! Another way, and perhaps my preferred, is to roll on a fairly liberal (but controllable) application of epoxy resin onto the ply then lay the pre-cut fg dry over the top. That way you're pre soaking the ply, which means less working the layup, but are still handling dry and easy to manage fg. Then of course you apply further resin over the top. Its a bit quicker than the dry method I find, and the added bonus is the fg will usually sit in the correct position held fast by the wet resin, which quickly soaks into the glass as well. So you're kinda "pre-wetting" to a degree both the fg and the ply! I recommend using peel ply over the fg - less fairing and sanding. I’ve since made a simple roller dispenser for the peel ply so I can follow along behind the wetting out - epoxy a section, then follow up with the peel ply, etc. Leave enough resin so that you are just squeegeeing out a small quantity from under the Pp as you go, and you’ll have a silky smooth finish instead of the course weave texture. Not essential, but I’m addicted to that perfect shine! : )
Your scarfjoint test looks very good, what bothers me a bit, is that you can break the plywood with ease around your knee. Do you think that the plywood hull of only 10 mm will be strong enough for a ocean crossing ? what, if you hit a tree or a floating container ?
Good question. Plywood on the hull has a frame every 18". It has a curve which greatly improves its deflective ability. It has a layer or more of FG to strengthen it. And finally, the test piece was only 2" wide.
The best boat-building drinking game on the net is "Thickened epoxy." Every time a boat builder say's "thickened epoxy", you take a slug. You're off your head within 5 minutes!
I was under the impression that this design was going to be a stich and glue style design. This as you are doing it is more a traditional ply on frame layup. ?? Would a boat of this design not been easier as a basket mold stich and glue project?
A fairly moot point when you consider for this build like the vast majority of boats the hull skin construction is such a minor part of the whole project. Having built a few boats myself to either method I do like an internal stringer on chines if not for strength then maybe for impact resistance. Also I have built a stich and tape dinghy and its a struggle to line the whole thing up in a larger vessel like this that could turn into quite a mission without the temp frames.
I have made a 26' stitch and glue Wharrem Cat in the past. It was an appropriate technique for that design. In my judgement, the technique I am using here is going to be simpler, and quicker than a stitch and glue for this design. The frames were knocked off in 2 days and are made out of inexpensive material. Apart from the sheer stringer, there are no more stringers below it (this is done to prevent water traps, instead I am making use of biaxial tape both sides of the chine for strength). You could make this with stitch and glue. The building technique is not the boat.
Cutting a 6" or 8" diameter PVC pipe into 1" long sections, and then cutting a slot in that 1" section so it can be pried open makes a decent cheap clamp.
Each side is about 80lbs. Awkward rather than heavy. After the hull stage, it's very much a single handed job. BTW, if you build a boat, it's hard to stop your friends pitching in. Boat builds have a way of bringing folks together.
@@sailoutofagarage6212 Too much curve to scarf whist on the frames but you could apply a butt block. But really all you need is one other person for 10 minutes to help lift it up. After the hull, everything gets small again.
Surprised at how easily the hull sheet fit to the frame. 👍🏻 Is there an I-beam in the rafters you’ll be able to use to assist in lifting and turning the completed hull?
Good question Treavor, It should wallow less than my Contessa off the wind. As for going to windward, I will let you know after some sea trails. I am not anticipating any real issues. At the end of the day it is only a 21' boat. It' going to get tossed about in seas that you may not feel in a 36' boat.
The sheer line board is glued to the plywood which means that the board was screwed to the temporary frame from the inside of the hull. Important fact which means the two can be separated when ready.
The stringer is not fixed to the frames. It is glued to the stem and temporarily screwed just behind the transom frame (Outside the plywood) It just stays in place in the notches on the temp frames
It's as easy to set up for one hundred as it is for one, so having made the mold for one boat how many times can the mold be used? I would be fairly confident of being able to make and sell more boats from that mold. Mr. Wave Rover the Aristotle Onassis of Prince Edward Island, and before you know it you'll be building you own private jet, now that would be fun.
I know that filming your work slow the progress considerably, but it is bit fustrating to watch when you skip some important steps without even mentioning then. E.g the stringer got magically trimmed to correct lenght and also the first panel at the bow after glueing. Anyway thanks for great video series.
I try to include as much as possible but sometimes the video doesn't turn out or I forget to set up the camera. I do however try to improve each video over the last.
Not been nasty love your stuff but please please stop with the hands thing all the news presenters do it looks so false put your hands wer they would be if your talking to your best fri please drop this hand thing . Love John
Anyone who doesn't clap along with him at the beginning of these videos by now, I'm afraid we can't be friends.
@@jodyssey9921 Love the clap!
Impressive clamp collection
I borrowed those from another boat building friend.
My advice to any young man starting out in life...you can never have too many clamps ! Love your clap and crack on...it's your signature. Thanks Alan...
Thanks and great advice!
It's such a joy to watch you put together this vessel and then I can't wait to see you when you put her in the water. God bless you and misses wave 🌊 Rover and all the good folks that are helping. Has always much peace and love from northeast Texas 🤠✌️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
A big Texas sized thank you.
Wow huge progress
I wish I could give 2 thumbs up to these videos! Can't wait for the next!
You're the best!
Aww just amazing work as always
Looking great Captain a Wave a Rover.
The hull is coming together quickly. And it looks very nice.
Im so excited for this build, ive long planned on building something mini650 sized with a larger cabin (for comfort and righting moment) smaller cockpit, and possibly twin keels for a small comfortable cruiser... i like your style the most so far out of all the youtube sailboat build vlogs..
Welcome aboard!
Nice stem brace, you can never have enough extra 1x4 sitting around. Same goes for clamps!
Very true! If I had more clamps I would have used them. No use leaving them unused.
That's a lot of C clamps. Fun to see WR taking shape. Already trying to work out how you are going to get the hull off of the jig and turned over ...
Yes, I had to burn a few brain cells on that one but am happy to say I have a plan.
How long is she?
@@danoyes1 21' 4" LOA
Yay it's Friday - and another boatie mcboatface build!
I suspect that you are British?
@@RoversAdventure I did live there for a while, but I'm actually an antipodean. 🇦🇺
Next can you build a plane from plywood !!!!
Algorithm Booster! 🚀
Yeah!
Yes that plastic holding the wood together is the strongest part... Just thought I’d lob a grenade into the trenches… ; )
You are preaching to the converted here. The chines on my design are basically a fiberglass boat with plywood connecting them.
@@RoversAdventure Apologies for the silly joke. I was just stirring up the fundamentalist Followers of the Wooden Boat. You’re obviously not one of those. My last boat was of a similar style construction wise. Wood and epoxy love each other and combine the best properties of both materials. I too tell people you’ll break the wood before you break the joint - an epoxy joint, particularly in ply, strengthens it rather than weakens it! Keep up the good work. I put a video of that build on YT if you or anyone is interested - search my name. Cheers
@@robinhodgkinson You sir are a real craftsman. I just watched your video. Excellent! I'm glad that you told me about it as I'm glassing tomorrow and I'm more sailor than boat builder so your video has been a timely tutorial.
@@robinhodgkinson Question: How did you apply the epoxy to the glass initially? FG dry on the boat and roll the epoxy into it?
@@RoversAdventure Yes, I applied the fg dry on the boat, poured on the epoxy and worked it along with a squeegee. The apply dry method means you’ll have to keep adding some epoxy as you go since the ply will suck the weave dry to a degree - what was too much epoxy, looks starved 5 mins later. But that’s no big deal, it soon saturates the ply. You just need to work back a few feet as you go along adding a little more epoxy. Handling dry means you can easily roll it on and position it. Pre-wet is good for small areas and difficult to get at situations but a mission to handle if you’re doing large areas, and there’s the danger of it setting off which it can quickly do if you are dealing with a whole roll of it pre wet!
Another way, and perhaps my preferred, is to roll on a fairly liberal (but controllable) application of epoxy resin onto the ply then lay the pre-cut fg dry over the top. That way you're pre soaking the ply, which means less working the layup, but are still handling dry and easy to manage fg. Then of course you apply further resin over the top. Its a bit quicker than the dry method I find, and the added bonus is the fg will usually sit in the correct position held fast by the wet resin, which quickly soaks into the glass as well. So you're kinda "pre-wetting" to a degree both the fg and the ply!
I recommend using peel ply over the fg - less fairing and sanding. I’ve since made a simple roller dispenser for the peel ply so I can follow along behind the wetting out - epoxy a section, then follow up with the peel ply, etc. Leave enough resin so that you are just squeegeeing out a small quantity from under the Pp as you go, and you’ll have a silky smooth finish instead of the course weave texture. Not essential, but I’m addicted to that perfect shine! : )
Your scarfjoint test looks very good, what bothers me a bit, is that you can break the plywood with ease around your knee.
Do you think that the plywood hull of only 10 mm will be strong enough for a ocean crossing ? what, if you hit a tree or a floating container ?
Good question. Plywood on the hull has a frame every 18". It has a curve which greatly improves its deflective ability. It has a layer or more of FG to strengthen it. And finally, the test piece was only 2" wide.
@@RoversAdventure All right, thanks, sounds good to me. Happy sailing !
So neat how the boat quick looks like a boat once the panels go on !
I am curious if there will be a chine log installed?
No chine logs, just biaxial glass on the inside and outside of the chine. The reason is to avoid water traps.
"Crack On" or "Spiffy" which makes a better drinking game ? Awesome video
Had a good laugh over that one!
The best boat-building drinking game on the net is "Thickened epoxy."
Every time a boat builder say's "thickened epoxy", you take a slug.
You're off your head within 5 minutes!
@@philipritson8821 Crack on !
I was under the impression that this design was going to be a stich and glue style design. This as you are doing it is more a traditional ply on frame layup. ?? Would a boat of this design not been easier as a basket mold stich and glue project?
A fairly moot point when you consider for this build like the vast majority of boats the hull skin construction is such a minor part of the whole project. Having built a few boats myself to either method I do like an internal stringer on chines if not for strength then maybe for impact resistance. Also I have built a stich and tape dinghy and its a struggle to line the whole thing up in a larger vessel like this that could turn into quite a mission without the temp frames.
I have made a 26' stitch and glue Wharrem Cat in the past. It was an appropriate technique for that design. In my judgement, the technique I am using here is going to be simpler, and quicker than a stitch and glue for this design. The frames were knocked off in 2 days and are made out of inexpensive material. Apart from the sheer stringer, there are no more stringers below it (this is done to prevent water traps, instead I am making use of biaxial tape both sides of the chine for strength).
You could make this with stitch and glue. The building technique is not the boat.
Cutting a 6" or 8" diameter PVC pipe into 1" long sections, and then cutting a slot in that 1" section so it can be pried open makes a decent cheap clamp.
Thanks for that, may use it in the future.
I wonder how big / maximum size allowed for s&g monohul boat?
I don't know of any maximum. The 650 could be built using the Stitch and Glue method.
Since I have never built a boat, I have a question. Could you have substituted Divinycell foam panels instead of using plywood for the exterior?
Absolutely. For me it was a cost issue and the plywood was readily available
Designed for solo sailing, but not building.
Those are big sheets to handle, might be a challenge to build without help.
Each side is about 80lbs. Awkward rather than heavy. After the hull stage, it's very much a single handed job. BTW, if you build a boat, it's hard to stop your friends pitching in. Boat builds have a way of bringing folks together.
@@RoversAdventure Haha. If I hear of a boat build nearby I will bring beer. 😍
I am also thinking about of this. A singlehanded builder might scarf the sheets on the frame after gluing instead of the other way around.
@@sailoutofagarage6212 Too much curve to scarf whist on the frames but you could apply a butt block. But really all you need is one other person for 10 minutes to help lift it up. After the hull, everything gets small again.
Surprised at how easily the hull sheet fit to the frame. 👍🏻
Is there an I-beam in the rafters you’ll be able to use to assist in lifting and turning the completed hull?
No reinforcing in the trusses. I will be relying on some hearty souls. It will only weigh about 3-400lbs when we go to turn it over.
The frames are temporary so in the end the hull will have zero structure like orgami? You then just insert a few bulkheads ? TY
You are correct. Either a bulkhead or frame every 18"(approximately)
How does the flat bottom effect comfort on a moderate sea?
Good question Treavor, It should wallow less than my Contessa off the wind. As for going to windward, I will let you know after some sea trails. I am not anticipating any real issues. At the end of the day it is only a 21' boat. It' going to get tossed about in seas that you may not feel in a 36' boat.
The sheer line board is glued to the plywood which means that the board was screwed to the temporary frame from the inside of the hull. Important fact which means the two can be separated when ready.
The stringer is not fixed to the frames. It is glued to the stem and temporarily screwed just behind the transom frame (Outside the plywood) It just stays in place in the notches on the temp frames
It's as easy to set up for one hundred as it is for one, so having made the mold for one boat how many times can the mold be used? I would be fairly confident of being able to make and sell more boats from that mold. Mr. Wave Rover the Aristotle Onassis of Prince Edward Island, and before you know it you'll be building you own private jet, now that would be fun.
Mrs. Rover got a good chuckle, thanks for that!
I know that filming your work slow the progress considerably, but it is bit fustrating to watch when you skip some important steps without even mentioning then. E.g the stringer got magically trimmed to correct lenght and also the first panel at the bow after glueing. Anyway thanks for great video series.
I try to include as much as possible but sometimes the video doesn't turn out or I forget to set up the camera. I do however try to improve each video over the last.
Not been nasty love your stuff but please please stop with the hands thing all the news presenters do it looks so false put your hands wer they would be if your talking to your best fri please drop this hand thing . Love John
It's largely an unconscious thing. You may have to wait until I'm on the high seas again, at that point I'm usually using my hands for hanging on.