Oh boy! I’ve built 2 kayaks, a rowing skiff, and finally a teardrop camper out of marine plywood, and stitch and glue. I may just need to build a sailboat...Two things holding me back -the lack of sailing knowledge, and a nearby ocean. I will definitely check out your scarf joint jig. Thank you for the videos!
@@daveamies5031 where I first started it was a large pond, then I did some coastal sailing on the New England coast, sailed in the Caribbean & the Pacific, then the pacific NW. Now I belong to a sailing club on Lake Norman with a fleet of Highland 19s. When I didn't have my own boat, I found someone who did, struck up a conversation, & went sailing.
Geetings from Germany .you and Roger Taylor, are the most expirering Guys in the hole sailing world! Your rules ,with simple trailering, and refitting in the backyard garage, are the only way for me , One day I visit you, on my own Kiel. Thank you for having master lessons, Please stay healthy and keep on rocking.
Amazing. Best explanation of boat building I’ve ever seen with a simple to understand, sturdy design. What a joy to watch someone tackle a great project!
fascinating watching, as always. Now that more of the boat is together, all of those early steps, which were at times hard to follow, become much clearer. thanks for taking us along into some of the fine woodworking.
Lots to figure out on the initial build of any design, second boat get the benefit of your learning curve. Would you consider laying up the second layer transversely on the bottom ?
You absolutely could but the extra strength is not necessary. The bottom is absolutely strong enough as is. We have discovered some issues (they have been corrected and updated in the building plans) that I will talk about in the next video concerning design changes.
Excellent videos. I love your music. And, as far as I can tell, your craftsmanship is superb. I do have a few questions about the building sequence. Why are there no permanent bulkheads in your jig setup? It would seem that such would save considerable building time, as the would go with the completed hull shell, leaving far less temporary framing to remove. Also, wouldn't it have been easier to cut out the general bottom shape on the bottom panel, then trim the excess once it has been test fitted? Just curious. I'm building a more modest boat myself, a 10 ft (3 m) sailing scow. At this time, I am fabricating the two bulkhead-like frames, which are made up of timber and plywood gussets. I wish I had the skill you have.
As boats get bigger, that technique gets harder. The 650 could be built either way but in my opinion the way I am building the 650 is an easier and faster method. The material from the frames can be reused during the rest of the build.
Don't know if you look back at old videos but I'm rewatching again do you think it would be a good idea to do a layer of glass on the inside side of the ply after you scarfed it together? Same with the sides. I'm looking at a PVC closed cell board that is surpost to be better than Marine ply
It wouldn't hurt to have some glass over the joint and the bottom and the lower chine do on the inside. The PVC board is a good idea but one of the tenants of the build was to make a very economical and sturdy ocean cruiser.
Good idea. I put a fairing baton on the underside after it was lifted in place (next video). There was very little waste after I did the final fitting.
I'm renting space (24'x24') The space you see around the boat doesn't all belong to me. Most of the clamps (about 80%) have been borrowed from another boat builder just for the few days that I need them. I explained this in an earlier video.
@@generoll4027 I'm assuming you mean stitch and glue with epoxy fillets and Fiberglass tabbing. Largely this is the method I'm using as you will see in the next 2-3 episodes. The chine is perfect for this as is.
@@RoversAdventure I guess I don't understand the WEST method. I thought it was made out of strips of plywood saturated in epoxy and then laid over a form.
In my opinion the scarfs are to short to make it strong enough. Also complicated to make them. I have learned my lessons on a waarschip kwart ton. That boat is 725 cm long so another comparison, but the scarves on that boat were a lot longer to make it strong enough to withstand the forces that may occur on a hull.. I don't know wether your boat is going to be covered in fibergals/resin; the waarschip 725 is not.
In the previous episode I proved that the plywood broke before the scarf. Might be worth your while to watch it... very interesting. I also showed how easy it is to make scarf joints with my router jig. The hull and parts of the interior are in fact being glassed as per the Naval Architects specs.
I am enjoying your videos, but frankly, I have doubts about the design. The flat bottom means pounding in any kind of seaway; with any long passages, it will be very uncomfortable since there isn't even standing headroom. Outboard engine seems very squiffy for ocean passages. Could you publish all the stats? Sail area. displacement. ballast, &c? The capsize screening formula you gave seems very low. Comfort ratio? I wish you well, and hope that you offer all due libations to Poseidon and Doris (his wife) before making passages. (all proprieties must be observed.)
If you can go back to the first videos of this series you can get a better idea of the designed waterline. I believe the designed waterline is about where the topsides intersect with the garboard. This will put the flat bottom below the static waterline and when the boat is heeled over there will be a chine presented to the water rather than the flat bottom. The chine will act as a "v" bottom and will reduce any pounding. that would be a good question and explanation for an upcoming episode, sir.
You nailed it Matt. That's exactly what the design was expected to do. After the hull is glassed I will try to do another explanation of the design elements.
Once again, wasting time scarfing. Just apply a layer of fibreglass over the join, or the whole panel. Especially applicable since the bottom has got two layers, fiberglassed together. You just have one big "butt", or "payson" joint in effect. The curve will be totally fair using this technique.
I was thinking the same though what he is doing is stronger something quite important when dozing off 2000 miles from shore in a bit of a blow. Peace of mind is a valuable commodity at times. I do many glassed over joints as you describe for small boats and have never had a failure which is surprising as I think a canoe floor would get considerably more stress than this boats bottom, though these days I also do a hybrid of a 45 degree scarf (quick and easy on a table saw) glassed over or even with a butt plate.
@@bomacca556 He had a point about a "payson" joint (butt with ply backing) makes it hard to get a fair curve on a long plywood panel. My take was to put a layer of glass on the panel when it was flat, you get the fairing effect, and can add the backing ply later once the curve was in.
I can't see how that would be faster. 4 sheets of ply with only 1 layer of glass holding them together would be a nightmare to try and maneuver without breaking the joints. I prefer not to use butt blocks as they have a tendency to trap moisture especially when located below the waterline. Once you master the scarfing technique (which is easy with my scarfing jig) you are truly impowered to do so much more with your boat building. It's quick easy and doesn't get in the way of interior structure. And finally, When I reinforce the chines on the inside, I have a straight run for the glass, no butt blocks to try to glass over. THESE ARE MY REASONS FOR DOING IT THIS WAY, to each there own.
Oh boy! I’ve built 2 kayaks, a rowing skiff, and finally a teardrop camper out of marine plywood, and stitch and glue. I may just need to build a sailboat...Two things holding me back -the lack of sailing knowledge, and a nearby ocean. I will definitely check out your scarf joint jig. Thank you for the videos!
who needs an ocean? small pond? small boat!
Where there's a will, there is a way.
@@mcrumph I was going to say how about a lake, but yes a pond or a pool is enough
@@daveamies5031 where I first started it was a large pond, then I did some coastal sailing on the New England coast, sailed in the Caribbean & the Pacific, then the pacific NW. Now I belong to a sailing club on Lake Norman with a fleet of Highland 19s. When I didn't have my own boat, I found someone who did, struck up a conversation, & went sailing.
When I was a child in nfld I remember that little tune so well, " The ant's go marching, " all the time, as kids, we sang that tune!
Geetings from Germany .you and Roger Taylor, are the most expirering Guys in the hole sailing world! Your rules ,with simple trailering, and refitting in the backyard garage, are the only way for me ,
One day I visit you, on my own Kiel. Thank you for having master lessons,
Please stay healthy and keep on rocking.
Thank you for even putting me in the same category as Roger Taylor.
Amazing. Best explanation of boat building I’ve ever seen with a simple to understand, sturdy design. What a joy to watch someone tackle a great project!
Wow, thank you!
fascinating watching, as always. Now that more of the boat is together, all of those early steps, which were at times hard to follow, become much clearer. thanks for taking us along into some of the fine woodworking.
Many thanks!
I'm so glad to be able to help out!
Thank you again.
Getting close to a complete hull now. Wave Rover appears to be coming along nicely.
It's just a matter of cracking on!
The boat is looking much larger than I thought, amazing headway.
Things on the boat are looking good. Glad to be able to lend a hand.
Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
That bottom piece is definitely a handful. Can’t wait to see how you attach it.
Coming soon!
Thanks for the show, waiting for next
More to come!
Great video, thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
You had me with the bucket of 410 microlight :)
I should clarify that although the container says Microlight it is in fact 403 microfibers.
Lots to figure out on the initial build of any design, second boat get the benefit of your learning curve.
Would you consider laying up the second layer transversely on the bottom ?
You absolutely could but the extra strength is not necessary. The bottom is absolutely strong enough as is. We have discovered some issues (they have been corrected and updated in the building plans) that I will talk about in the next video concerning design changes.
Excellent videos. I love your music. And, as far as I can tell, your craftsmanship is superb.
I do have a few questions about the building sequence.
Why are there no permanent bulkheads in your jig setup?
It would seem that such would save considerable building time, as the would go with the completed hull shell, leaving far less temporary framing to remove.
Also, wouldn't it have been easier to cut out the general bottom shape on the bottom panel, then trim the excess once it has been test fitted?
Just curious. I'm building a more modest boat myself, a 10 ft (3 m) sailing scow.
At this time, I am fabricating the two bulkhead-like frames, which are made up of timber and plywood gussets.
I wish I had the skill you have.
As boats get bigger, that technique gets harder. The 650 could be built either way but in my opinion the way I am building the 650 is an easier and faster method. The material from the frames can be reused during the rest of the build.
@@RoversAdventure OK. That makes sense. I was just wondering.
Don't know if you look back at old videos but I'm rewatching again do you think it would be a good idea to do a layer of glass on the inside side of the ply after you scarfed it together? Same with the sides. I'm looking at a PVC closed cell board that is surpost to be better than Marine ply
It wouldn't hurt to have some glass over the joint and the bottom and the lower chine do on the inside. The PVC board is a good idea but one of the tenants of the build was to make a very economical and sturdy ocean cruiser.
@@RoversAdventure In NZ the PVC board is cheaper than ply and it can come in any length
@@glynncleaver7398 that's awesome. I would consider that for sure. Is it possible that you will build the first Wave Rover with this board
You do great work. What is the working time for the epoxy when gluing the scarf?
Depending on the temp I have 20-30min
Don’t understand why you don’t mark dimensions of bottom plank from frame dimensions and cut it out before putting on the frames?
Good idea. I put a fairing baton on the underside after it was lifted in place (next video). There was very little waste after I did the final fitting.
The
Ate where my clamps went. Just tell them when done time to go home :)
More space and more clamps.. Haha. I'm sorry; that made me laugh.
I'm renting space (24'x24') The space you see around the boat doesn't all belong to me. Most of the clamps (about 80%) have been borrowed from another boat builder just for the few days that I need them. I explained this in an earlier video.
do you consider this construction or plan amenable to the WEST method of building?
Absolutely.
@@RoversAdventure would you soften the chine if you adopted that method? And if so could you still have bilge keels?
@@generoll4027 I'm assuming you mean stitch and glue with epoxy fillets and Fiberglass tabbing. Largely this is the method I'm using as you will see in the next 2-3 episodes. The chine is perfect for this as is.
@@RoversAdventure I guess I don't understand the WEST method. I thought it was made out of strips of plywood saturated in epoxy and then laid over a form.
@@generoll4027 Perhaps it was my poor assumption Gene. I have not built with the method that you have suggested.
In my opinion the scarfs are to short to make it strong enough. Also complicated to make them. I have learned my lessons on a waarschip kwart ton. That boat is 725 cm long so another comparison, but the scarves on that boat were a lot longer to make it strong enough to withstand the forces that may occur on a hull.. I don't know wether your boat is going to be covered in fibergals/resin; the waarschip 725 is not.
In the previous episode I proved that the plywood broke before the scarf. Might be worth your while to watch it... very interesting. I also showed how easy it is to make scarf joints with my router jig. The hull and parts of the interior are in fact being glassed as per the Naval Architects specs.
Algorithm Booster! ⛵
Thanks
Never enough clamps?
So true, I borrowed about 80% percent of these clamps from a friend.
Video too short , love it though
It's always a dark art trying to figure out an appropriate video length, but I'm in full agreement with you on this one.
that does not look like marine plywood. marine ply should have 15 layers of lamination.
My Plywood is Marine grade ( BS 1088 Lloyds Certified Meranti).
I am enjoying your videos, but frankly, I have doubts about the design. The flat bottom means pounding in any kind of seaway; with any long passages, it will be very uncomfortable since there isn't even standing headroom. Outboard engine seems very squiffy for ocean passages. Could you publish all the stats? Sail area. displacement. ballast, &c? The capsize screening formula you gave seems very low. Comfort ratio? I wish you well, and hope that you offer all due libations to Poseidon and Doris (his wife) before making passages. (all proprieties must be observed.)
dont boat builders use hard wood for a reason when hand making a boat for ocean passages. the plywood and glue seems more funner
If you can go back to the first videos of this series you can get a better idea of the designed waterline. I believe the designed waterline is about where the topsides intersect with the garboard. This will put the flat bottom below the static waterline and when the boat is heeled over there will be a chine presented to the water rather than the flat bottom. The chine will act as a "v" bottom and will reduce any pounding. that would be a good question and explanation for an upcoming episode, sir.
You nailed it Matt. That's exactly what the design was expected to do. After the hull is glassed I will try to do another explanation of the design elements.
Once again, wasting time scarfing. Just apply a layer of fibreglass over the join, or the whole panel. Especially applicable since the bottom has got two layers, fiberglassed together. You just have one big "butt", or "payson" joint in effect. The curve will be totally fair using this technique.
I was thinking the same though what he is doing is stronger something quite important when dozing off 2000 miles from shore in a bit of a blow. Peace of mind is a valuable commodity at times. I do many glassed over joints as you describe for small boats and have never had a failure which is surprising as I think a canoe floor would get considerably more stress than this boats bottom, though these days I also do a hybrid of a 45 degree scarf (quick and easy on a table saw) glassed over or even with a butt plate.
Why not butt, then add a piece of ply over the join and screw it on both sides to hold it? Then class over.
@@bomacca556 He had a point about a "payson" joint (butt with ply backing) makes it hard to get a fair curve on a long plywood panel. My take was to put a layer of glass on the panel when it was flat, you get the fairing effect, and can add the backing ply later once the curve was in.
@@dnomyarnostaw i see, thanks.
I can't see how that would be faster. 4 sheets of ply with only 1 layer of glass holding them together would be a nightmare to try and maneuver without breaking the joints. I prefer not to use butt blocks as they have a tendency to trap moisture especially when located below the waterline. Once you master the scarfing technique (which is easy with my scarfing jig) you are truly impowered to do so much more with your boat building. It's quick easy and doesn't get in the way of interior structure. And finally, When I reinforce the chines on the inside, I have a straight run for the glass, no butt blocks to try to glass over. THESE ARE MY REASONS FOR DOING IT THIS WAY, to each there own.