I love Phoebe, and I'm happy to see her return but I am also bracing myself for how her work will be perceived for several reasons. 1. As a designer of a house, she kind of became an 'interpreter' so while we definitely got used to her aesthetic, she may have a totally different viewpoint (especially after taking off time to be with her kids). 2. We saw how Tom Ford had endless adoration during his Gucci era. People were very excited for him to come back, but his collections under the Tom Ford brand have been hit or miss for a lot of people. 3. Social media is a different monster, and people can be ready to attack. We'll see how it goes. Wishing her the absolute best though because I'm always happy to see women designers get a spotlight!
Honestly, I never felt Philo was trying too hard to appeal to a certain audience, her thought process (from what i've gathered from interviews) & looking at her designs, I'm guessing her approach is quite intuitive & simple. And during her tenure at Céline, I think wealthy working women wanted exactly that, simple, quality, no fuss pieces. She still put a twist on a lot of wardrobe basics, but her design are clean, to-the-point & timeless. Bottom line, i'd be more than happy if she just keeps doing her, she has her niche clientèle, i couldn't afford her pieces haha but i love the old Céline's aesthetics & think neither of her disciples or any of the other brands you mentionned pull off minimalist, practical design like she used to. I like The Row, Peter Do's debut was dope & BV just lacks the oomph, still like what Daniel Lee does (or did) Typing this, i can't help but think of that double-layered trench coat Philo pulled off & her cavallière boots are the boots of my dreams, or that fur over leather vest Daria is wearing in one of the campaigns or the clasp bag which to me is the epitome of understated chic. Many of her pieces are just gorgeous & that doesn't seem to stem from an oversized ego or wanting to be the next it thing. Again, whatever she does, i'm sure she'll do it with gusto & she'll definitely find an audience (& buyers).
I see your point and i mostly agree. But maybe she'll give us the next thing..something completely different. Like she did between Chloe and Celine! Who knows? But you're right. Low expectations.
You had me going there at the beginning, but then I was like, let me give this video a chance and I am glad I stuck around! Great talking points and Phoebe literally has her own shoes to fill in this new endeavor and I think we are all hopeful that she does a great job.
Thank you for sticking it out haha. I agree by the way, she has the hardest goal of all because she was the best and will be compared to herself the most. But whatever comes, i look forward to a great comeback.
Another great video ! I'm not really well informed about Phoebe Philo's work even though I've heard a few things here and there, so first thank you for going back to her career as a fashion designer. Now I kinda agree with you, she'll need to make a difference somehow, either price-wise, design-wise or anything to keep up the distance with other minimalist designers in the game right now. Though I still think she has the potential to bring something different, or at least interesting, we should not put too much pressure on her or even have high expectations. But I'm wondering about the "WHY" she's launching her own brand after such a break and a long awaited comeback. Does she need to prove herself in the fashion industry ? I'm not sure about that, there's obviously a financial motivation behind it, all the more so as it's backed up by LVMH. I think having more knowledge about why she's doing that may make me think differently about her comeback and my expectations would likely not be the same
Tuba. Loving your analysis. It makes total sense. The stakes are higher than ever. My hopes are high high, I'm actually biased, I must confess. I adore Phoebe Philo, and I truly hope that success comes with this venture. Cheers from San Francisco, CA
I also wish her all the best in terms of success and creativity. We‘ll need to wait for another year, but can’t wait already! Greetings back from Düsseldorf 🎉
I just Discovered your channel and i love it.At the same time, i hope that Phoebe makes a great comeback, we have to agree that most of us love her for many reasons and She Will surprise us!
I 100% agree with you. I don’t believe people should keep their expectations so high. I feel and have seen, that a lot of philophiles, believe her return is going to be a continuation from her Fall 2018 work. The only way a see her launching her way into the main spotlight is if she has another “it bag” moment, sort of like the same reaction as the Luggage Tote or the Phantom. Overall loved the video❤️. Was waiting for someone to shine a little reality on her return because all I’ve seen is exuberant amounts of optimism. Regardless I’m glad the Queen is back!
LVMH has observed the success of Phoebe's protege Daniel Lee and his reign at Bottega Veneta (Owned by Kering, one of their biggest luxury competitors) and inevitably they want to emulate the success of BV by bringing Phoebe back so that they can also bring back the buying power of Phoebe's original and varied clientele during her heyday at Céline. They know that Phoebe's audience is loyal to her brand of niche aestheticism and they believe that this will make them a lot of $$$$$.
Remember when The Row started. I think it would be the same. She will fail? Yes and no. Some people will love it and some won’t. I don’t think she will please majority. She always hang out with young designers and she definitely bring something new and surprises.
Certainly interesting perspectives to consider. My gut feeling on the whole return of Phoebe is that it will be her reinvention. You mentioned in your video that Phoebe loved Madonna as a kid, and that makes total sense to me. Madonna is the queen of reinventing herself, she achieved this with every album she released it was her M.O. so to speak. I think that Phoebe has done just that in fashion during her time at Celine. To stay relevant and inspiring to others you have to stay true to yourself and your own evolution.. I hope that her designs reflect her instinct with fashion, her eye, her perspective always. To me that is what makes her so distinct. She understands reinvention as an art form, and has skillfully used this tool to propel fashion forward. Hopefully she is tuning out the noise and just focusing on the things that are inspiring her and letting that come through in her new label. Staying authentic and true to oneself is really where creativity lies in all people and I feel that Phoebe understands this concept quite well. Great video topic!
Thank you! And absolutely agree! No matter how unsure it is, if she will ever comeback with a namesake label, I wish it to be her true authentic self and not a pleasing of us with our expectations actually. I just still think we will never be as pleased again as we were, it was her time and she did everything right and shined, so probably nothing close to that will happen again. But no matter what her creation is I’d like to see what goes in her mind right now concerning fashion.
Phoebe has taken a massive step by getting back on board the fashion train, she worked her butt off to do what she did Stella and Phoebe were as we know pioneers of that time, they boarded that Eurostar together and those two London girls hit Paris hard, John was the King obviously we are in another whole new era here and Phoebe took a massive step by stopping with Celine, but lets not forget that she knows her craft and yes theres a new generation and a new time but Phoebe isn't looking to be miss massive again she doing it because she wants to do it and has put her money where her mouth is on this one as well. Let's see we live in a time where your only as good as your last whatever it is you do..... Creativity and those who create are to be celebrated not categorised into success or failure whatever way this goes for her let's wish her all the best we need individuals who stick their necks out and thats what she's doing ....go there girl
Let's keep an open mind, shall we ? I feel it's a great time for Phoebe to come back specifically because, as you so insightfully put it, she's going to be facing competition now. That is bound to inform her design process - trying to find her place in a world of disciples. Also, with her hiatus away, I bet she's grown as a person and as an artist and would surely have interesting things to say in her work under her new label. The future is bright, people. It's always bright !
Her style, contact with reality and vision is beyond all of us. We are her copies. It will be more a question of who understands it right away or a bit later.
Little off-topic, but this is keeping me awake. I think we can use ram pumps to solve the energy crisis. First we build a hollow cylindrical tower out at sea, to a depth of say 1100m. The tower is open to the air at the top and has a sealed base at the bottom. We drill a hole about 20m below the surface and feed water into the tower. The water falls down a pipe for about 200m where it powers a turbine that is connected to an electricity generator. We collect the water and drop it down a pipe for another 200m to another turbine. We do this twice more until we are getting electricity from four generators. We then drop the water another 200m to power a turbine which drives a cog that is geared to turn a disc at the base of the tower. The waste water from the last turbine starts to collect at the bottom of the tower creating a shallow reservoir that we need to pump out. The rotating disc at the base of the tower has cams along its edge. These cams are used to push pistons outwards. These pistons are in cylinders built into the wall in a circular formation. The cylinders are sealed at the interior side apart from where a piston rod enters to push the piston outward. The outside of the piston head is exposed to the deep sea water. The cam will push the piston outward against the high pressure deep sea water. An inlet pipe will take water from our shallow reservoir which will be pulled into the space created in the cylinder, behind the piston head. When the cam releases the piston, the low pressure water inside the cylinder will be the only thing pushing the piston out against the high pressure deep sea water. This is when the system acts as a ram pump. The piston will be forced inward and will force the low pressure water back out through the inlet pipe toward the reservoir. The inlet pipe will now act the same as a waste pipe in a ram pump and the flowing water will shut a waste valve. The remaining water in the cylinder will be forced through a check valve into a pipe and upwards to the surface. The larger the diameter of the tower, the more cylinders that can be built into the wall at the base of the tower. I realise that the ram pump cylinder will pump more of its water back into the reservoir than it sends to the surface but we can always add more cylinders to the system. We can even put another layer of cylinders above the original ones as ram pumps still work underneath shallow water. I think we should be able to pump water upwards at the same rate that it falls into the bottom of the tower and so keep the reservoir nice and shallow. Now, if I understand the maths correctly, we might only be able to pump the water near to the surface. In that case, we can pump the water into a reservoir tank (inside the tower) and use the electricity generated by the first turbine to pump out the tank. This will leave us with 3 generators worth of electricity for every tower built. Would this work? Everyone, please comment.
12 organs, she can have whatever she wants. However totally agree with you, so happy to see her back and super excited to see what she will do but realistically we should not expect too much and all this media hype made everyone expect too much
For the first point, it is definitely HARDER to make people want to buy clothing from a once thought of “unfashionable” brand. So for that I must disagree
Ofcourse that one is harder, but i was looking here at the big picture and the status quo today. She is a succesfull designer now and will therefore be compared to her latest designs, not her earliest.
My thinking is there are a lot of people who just say they love her but never owned her pieces they just know it’s cool to like her. No doubt her brand will be aimed at a very wealthy customer base which I have no doubt she has. On Bottega the RTW has dipped in creativity and Peter Do is pretty limited.
Lol the girls are going to be so shook with the truth bombs you're dropping. The amount of support she gets from people who never bought her pieces is hilarious.
True, this will definetely effect her success, if it will have the same price policy. But i think thats what many designers experience ones they are trendy. But the affection people have for Phoebe is just a whole other level and may be more a bubble than true support.
@@tubaavalon I've been keeping up with Hedi's Celine for a while now. While I'm not personally a fan of any deviation from his 2013 Saint Laurent era, I have bought into his fragrances at Celine since it stays true to his overall vision for fragrances. I have the ones he creatively directed at Dior to compare, so I understand how unwavering his vision is, despite updating it for the modern audience. Many English-speaking individuals online have disparaging remarks on his Celine collections, and I had very pessimistic thoughts on its success since I didn't see many people buying into it. It wasn't until I installed China's social media platform, RED, that I was able to see how much activity there was around Celine in China. I'm not surprised when the latest LVMH report says that Celine is "hugely successful."
This is completely non sense. You could say the same when she was at Chloe. “How can she surprise us?!” Her Chloe vision was well copied as well. But Phoebe always found a way to re invent yourself and challenging hers and our vision. Her secret also stays in having the best eye for recruiting fresh young creative talents who will bring even more fire. I am 100% CONFIDENT Phoebe will come up with something new, unexpected that will make us all fall in love with her brand and, of course, a new wave of copy and paste for the designers who are scratiching the bottom of her Celine greatest hits. Sorry I like your videos but that’s a complete fail. But let’s review this in a year or so :)
I don’t think you can compare her Chloé days to the impact she had with Céline. What you are saying is basically, she was good before, why shouldnt she be as good anymore. Arent there enough examples that prove, many designers did not have ongoing success? She has a different approach this time, focusing on sustainability and probably different values for her designs also. Maybe people shouldnt take this whole topic too personal. This is just a different view on the story. But lets just talk in a year from now or so :)
Curious what you think. I was disappointed, I think she was relying too much on the successful pieces from the past & recreated them with small changes.
Biggest thing about this whole Old Celine story is that if you like a designer and/or brand, go and f*ng buy their stuff in retail. Otherwise, this designer would be fired, like Phoebe.
can't argue with your analysis - awesome channel BTW - but (of course) what you are really doing is laying the grounds for low expectations .. and probably rightly so .. there is a chance she will become provincial - outside paris, without corporate structure - i can't help but reflect on jean muir, christopher kane and burberry and victoria beckham - but it will be a real test of phoebe philo's potential coco chanel-like talent that she does this. And she's not shying away from it. Can you imagine the PP logo ?????!!!! I note other views on diversity and body positivity but her celine design studio was very diverse judging by the names of all the great designers who have emerged since so i think we can trust her to have a good point of view on that. And probably body positivity too judging by her thing with volume and draping. Anyway obviously I think her talent will triumph over any constraints and it will be thrilling when it does cos we need people like phoebe philo, not just in fashion but in the world, people you can get behind and really be inspired by.
discovering you channel was such a nice surprise!! but i didn’t get the name of one of the brands you mentioned: bottega, peter do, khaite, proenza, toteme and (?)…
Joan Didion is not the epitome of sophistication and intellect. She’s the epitome of solipsism and histrionic behaviour. Camille Paglia is the epitome of sophistication and intellect. I think that Phoebe’s line will ultimately fail because we are living in a post-Demna post-fashion era. It’s not really cool or interesting to look like you care about what you’re wearing unless you’re wearing some crazy archival piece. But for the most part, once the brand is on ssense it’s practically dead at that point
Thanks for enlightening on Joan Didion. This was my personal feeling of her and her image. But still i wouldnt say people don’t care about their looks anymore. Yes, we see an increase in comfortable sportswear inspired pieces in fashion, mostly due to lockdown, but there are many other brands that prove that people still crave for a sophisticated and thoughtful look. And to the ssense point - why is it inmediately a problem, when a designer generates a bit more of commercial success? I dont talk about hyped or trendy brands. But why can we not like a brand the moment more than 3 people know about it. Being niche is nice, but i am usually very happy for the designers, seeing them in good online stores, generating revenue.
@@tubaavalon I think it less that people don't care about the way they look, but more that it's a bit gauche and uncool to appear as though you put a lot of effort in. If you're a gallery director, or a high-powered career woman, fine...it makes sense to dress in Proenza and JW. I'm speaking more from a position of what I see young people wearing on the street. And in terms of not liking a brand once it becomes popular, I think that the fashion industry primes our minds to associate quality with exclusivity. And especially now that shein and fashionnova can produce high quality knock-offs of the latest Bottega pieces, many items become tired more quickly than in the past.
I think there's also the fact that she hasn't been there for 4 years? She has a lot to catch up like right now the topics are different, fashion has kind of change in terms of durability, sustainability, eco-responsibility etc etc, so she's gonna have to live with this whole new generation, the millennial sort of analyzing more the society, the brand in itself, the ethic, the values etc rather than the clothes in themselves which I guess back then at old celine didn't matter as much as it does today.
I think LVMH has been desperately driven by greed and the need to grow, which is both good and bad in this situation. They replaced Philo with Slimane, which is more commercial, just like they replaced Raf Simons with MGC, and Kris Van Assche with Kim Jones, and then Kim Jones with Virgil Abloh. Now as Bottega Venetta has brought back minimalism with a much more modern touch and become a hit, LVMH wants it again and use Phoebe Philo to be more competitive. However, if Phoebe continued to pursue her previous brandless aesthetics at Celine, it would probably be a commercial failure again (most minimalism brands are still unprofitable: Victoria Beckham, The Row, Jil Sander just to name a few). She will sell in the beginning no matter what as a result of the fans' eagerness, but in the long run, the brand needs to be more commercial to survive. It will need to focus on accessories like Bottega Veneta/Jacquemus/Hermes, or smartly incorporate brand awareness elements like Prada/Valentino while still maintains Phoebe's artistic roots that the fans came to love.
Maybe you should spend more time researching what phoebe did at Celine. Did you see how she turned that brand around and what she did? Accessories. Bags. Shoes. She know what she is doing. You do you boo boo
@@ShweMyaukMyauk I know what she did dude. I like her crazy ass accessories too. But they were not the focus of the brand, marketing-wise, even after the trapeze bag became a phenomenon. And overall, Celine promotion during her time was brandless. It sold her aesthetics, not the brand. Even now sometimes it is impossible to tell an outfit is from Phoebe Philo's Celine, The Row or Peter Do. The lack of an identifiable brand turned the new generation of consumers away. That's why Celine was not profitable enough to keep her. The existing fanbase could not even help.
I think she would have to do something extremely over the top to match the expectations. A lot of thinks in her kind of style has been done by brands you mentioned, so it wouldn't be revolutionary or mind-blowing for her to do stuff in her style right now. Expectations are low for me unfortunately :((((
I personally think she is a bit overrated, even in her Chloe days. I felt like the Celine hype was always over the bags rather than the design. Would probably prefer Lucie Meier and Luke Meier or Lemaire.
I am a female identifying who's liking the aesthetics and ideas of Celine BUT really hating on what PHILO's personal style unfortunately did to the 2010s based on how ±normal± women interpreted her minimalism. I am speaking of young women (my whole female colleague team back then) dressing toned-down in oversized wool coats, the infamous seen-to-the-nausea stan smiths, huge shooping totes made from overly glazed hard leather, coming to the office with their coffee in the hand, feeling like they are IT, while they looked like every other philo fan. I know this is not the designers fault whatsover, I'm just complaining on what people actually DID with the minimalism of hers. I am a maximalist all the way and I enjoy that a LOT. Also... seeing what ppl do with minimalism within the interior: empty and standart looking flats with no character but hip plants on billy shelves for example.
I mean.... I think she can top that. Like she could have an incredible debut collection and have Daria front the campaign. Let's be real... Dotwillow isn't really doing anything for any one right now
0 organs. I mean I like her designs but I think there's also a danger of killing creativity when you stan a designer so much that it becomes your entire identity. I've seen girls on IG wearing all old Celine looks and I'm like... it's cool but can you do something different than the runway? Or add a personal touch to it? Then there are of course the ones like me that admire her work but have never bought a piece (will probably do it if the prices are reasonable or if there's anything left for the sales). I don't think she will "fail" as in her brand will go bankrupt after a year or two. I'm not sure what your definition of fail is. I think she might not meet everyone's expectations but that she will be creative enough to be a consistent force in the market. Maybe her brand will almost die at one point, after which LVMH will completely buy it and will bring a young designer to revive it in 20 years' time like she did with Celine. But I expect her name to remain solid in the fashion world.
Almost 3 mins into the video and nothing concrete on the statement of her “failure”. Just overdone editing and odd sarcasm in a monotone voice. Not watching the rest of this video.
I think this videos lacks a clear definition of „success“ . you say she can never be as successful as she was before and probably you’re right , but is that really the goal of her brand? Also not being as successful as before ≠ failure.
i don’t think it will be her goal, but it’s what we expect of her, that will be the fail. our vision of her new brand. I ofcourse do trust in her and still hope she will do whatever she does best and make us all as enthusiastic as before.
I think that you are very pessimistic and you are just doing conjectures. It seems like you just want to have a viral video. You are startig your video telling us that you are creating super profesional videos, and your whole video is just conjectures. You should know that super talented people are the ones that they can create something that you haven't seen before and we should all believe and dream of creativity and talent. And not be just pessimists before we even have seen what phoebe or any talented person, gives us...maybe you should think that point of view.
I understand all your thoughts, but the point of a video is not to praise all designers to the skies. We want to discuss and illuminate all facets here. And of course, an opinion on a launch that won't happen for another year is just conjecture. Unfortunately, I don't hang out with her privately. And maybe you should know that I'm a very ironic person, just for the record, because of professionalism and all that.
Opinions are like arseholes everyone has one. Millennials think they can talk their way into joining the club. The work that PP gave to her craft is not up for discussion by the hipster victims. You have no clue about what it takes carve out your statement. you are just just chewing on what you've read about her and you think that makes you relevant ...sort it out !! Blah blah blah
I love Phoebe, and I'm happy to see her return but I am also bracing myself for how her work will be perceived for several reasons. 1. As a designer of a house, she kind of became an 'interpreter' so while we definitely got used to her aesthetic, she may have a totally different viewpoint (especially after taking off time to be with her kids). 2. We saw how Tom Ford had endless adoration during his Gucci era. People were very excited for him to come back, but his collections under the Tom Ford brand have been hit or miss for a lot of people. 3. Social media is a different monster, and people can be ready to attack. We'll see how it goes. Wishing her the absolute best though because I'm always happy to see women designers get a spotlight!
Honestly, I never felt Philo was trying too hard to appeal to a certain audience, her thought process (from what i've gathered from interviews) & looking at her designs, I'm guessing her approach is quite intuitive & simple. And during her tenure at Céline, I think wealthy working women wanted exactly that, simple, quality, no fuss pieces. She still put a twist on a lot of wardrobe basics, but her design are clean, to-the-point & timeless. Bottom line, i'd be more than happy if she just keeps doing her, she has her niche clientèle, i couldn't afford her pieces haha but i love the old Céline's aesthetics & think neither of her disciples or any of the other brands you mentionned pull off minimalist, practical design like she used to. I like The Row, Peter Do's debut was dope & BV just lacks the oomph, still like what Daniel Lee does (or did) Typing this, i can't help but think of that double-layered trench coat Philo pulled off & her cavallière boots are the boots of my dreams, or that fur over leather vest Daria is wearing in one of the campaigns or the clasp bag which to me is the epitome of understated chic. Many of her pieces are just gorgeous & that doesn't seem to stem from an oversized ego or wanting to be the next it thing. Again, whatever she does, i'm sure she'll do it with gusto & she'll definitely find an audience (& buyers).
Agreed, P has her own thoughts of women's basic fashion and she is creative. Also appreciated your daily style experiences of Celine.
Tuba, we need a 2023 update of this video! What do you think?
I think LVMH should have bought Sonia Rykiel, revived it, and made Phoebe Philo the artistic designer. It would have been thrilling.
Woowww.. yes! That would have been so interesting
I don't associate Sonia Rykiel with Phoebe. Two completely different worlds.
Omg can you imagine
@@isaojable CELINE was something else before Phoebe.
9 organs.
I hope she takes on menswear because her approach to fashion is so intellectual. I forever stan Philo.
I see your point and i mostly agree. But maybe she'll give us the next thing..something completely different. Like she did between Chloe and Celine! Who knows? But you're right. Low expectations.
Exactly, we‘ll just wait and just expect the best.
You had me going there at the beginning, but then I was like, let me give this video a chance and I am glad I stuck around!
Great talking points and Phoebe literally has her own shoes to fill in this new endeavor and I think we are all hopeful that she does a great job.
Thank you for sticking it out haha. I agree by the way, she has the hardest goal of all because she was the best and will be compared to herself the most. But whatever comes, i look forward to a great comeback.
Another great video ! I'm not really well informed about Phoebe Philo's work even though I've heard a few things here and there, so first thank you for going back to her career as a fashion designer.
Now I kinda agree with you, she'll need to make a difference somehow, either price-wise, design-wise or anything to keep up the distance with other minimalist designers in the game right now.
Though I still think she has the potential to bring something different, or at least interesting, we should not put too much pressure on her or even have high expectations. But I'm wondering about the "WHY" she's launching her own brand after such a break and a long awaited comeback.
Does she need to prove herself in the fashion industry ? I'm not sure about that, there's obviously a financial motivation behind it, all the more so as it's backed up by LVMH.
I think having more knowledge about why she's doing that may make me think differently about her comeback and my expectations would likely not be the same
The girls are SHAKING after seeing this video title😭
haha they don’t even hear me, believe me 😂
Great video as always! Where was your sweater vest from?
Its a Zara piece...i buy like 2 pieces per year there, which i also shouldnt. But this time i couldnt say no haha
Tuba. Loving your analysis. It makes total sense. The stakes are higher than ever. My hopes are high high, I'm actually biased, I must confess. I adore Phoebe Philo, and I truly hope that success comes with this venture. Cheers from San Francisco, CA
I also wish her all the best in terms of success and creativity. We‘ll need to wait for another year, but can’t wait already! Greetings back from Düsseldorf 🎉
I just Discovered your channel and i love it.At the same time, i hope that Phoebe makes a great comeback, we have to agree that most of us love her for many reasons and She Will surprise us!
Tuba, I’m here after the collection dropped
I 100% agree with you. I don’t believe people should keep their expectations so high. I feel and have seen, that a lot of philophiles, believe her return is going to be a continuation from her Fall 2018 work. The only way a see her launching her way into the main spotlight is if she has another “it bag” moment, sort of like the same reaction as the Luggage Tote or the Phantom. Overall loved the video❤️. Was waiting for someone to shine a little reality on her return because all I’ve seen is exuberant amounts of optimism. Regardless I’m glad the Queen is back!
This is exactly my point, it might sound to many a little too extreme, when i say she‘ll fail, but i guess we should just be realistic. 🧿
LVMH has observed the success of Phoebe's protege Daniel Lee and his reign at Bottega Veneta (Owned by Kering, one of their biggest luxury competitors) and inevitably they want to emulate the success of BV by bringing Phoebe back so that they can also bring back the buying power of Phoebe's original and varied clientele during her heyday at Céline. They know that Phoebe's audience is loyal to her brand of niche aestheticism and they believe that this will make them a lot of $$$$$.
I wonder if Daniel Lee will be at Phoebes brand now that he’s gone from bottega
you're getting so much better as a communicator. not many lapses like 'uhhs' and 'umms' and just spitting facts like its nobody's business
Thank youu! This means a lot 🥰
Remember when The Row started. I think it would be the same. She will fail? Yes and no. Some people will love it and some won’t. I don’t think she will please majority. She always hang out with young designers and she definitely bring something new and surprises.
Certainly interesting perspectives to consider. My gut feeling on the whole return of Phoebe is that it will be her reinvention. You mentioned in your video that Phoebe loved Madonna as a kid, and that makes total sense to me. Madonna is the queen of reinventing herself, she achieved this with every album she released it was her M.O. so to speak. I think that Phoebe has done just that in fashion during her time at Celine. To stay relevant and inspiring to others you have to stay true to yourself and your own evolution.. I hope that her designs reflect her instinct with fashion, her eye, her perspective always. To me that is what makes her so distinct. She understands reinvention as an art form, and has skillfully used this tool to propel fashion forward. Hopefully she is tuning out the noise and just focusing on the things that are inspiring her and letting that come through in her new label. Staying authentic and true to oneself is really where creativity lies in all people and I feel that Phoebe understands this concept quite well. Great video topic!
Thank you! And absolutely agree! No matter how unsure it is, if she will ever comeback with a namesake label, I wish it to be her true authentic self and not a pleasing of us with our expectations actually. I just still think we will never be as pleased again as we were, it was her time and she did everything right and shined, so probably nothing close to that will happen again. But no matter what her creation is I’d like to see what goes in her mind right now concerning fashion.
If you make clothes you desire to wear, you can’t fail. Phoebe is up there with Versace, Armani, dolce, coco.. a building block.
Phoebe has taken a massive step by getting back on board the fashion train, she worked her butt off to do what she did Stella and Phoebe were as we know pioneers of that time, they boarded that Eurostar together and those two London girls hit Paris hard, John was the King obviously we are in another whole new era here and Phoebe took a massive step by stopping with Celine, but lets not forget that she knows her craft and yes theres a new generation and a new time but Phoebe isn't looking to be miss massive again she doing it because she wants to do it and has put her money where her mouth is on this one as well. Let's see we live in a time where your only as good as your last whatever it is you do..... Creativity and those who create are to be celebrated not categorised into success or failure whatever way this goes for her let's wish her all the best we need individuals who stick their necks out and thats what she's doing ....go there girl
Let's keep an open mind, shall we ? I feel it's a great time for Phoebe to come back specifically because, as you so insightfully put it, she's going to be facing competition now. That is bound to inform her design process - trying to find her place in a world of disciples. Also, with her hiatus away, I bet she's grown as a person and as an artist and would surely have interesting things to say in her work under her new label. The future is bright, people. It's always bright !
Her style, contact with reality and vision is beyond all of us. We are her copies. It will be more a question of who understands it right away or a bit later.
I love how chaotic you are. Great points! 👍🏼
Thanks for appreciating this 🥹 all the love to you!
MAY BE SHE IS BACK ..COUSE SHE GOT SOMETHING NEW TO SAY ...X
Little off-topic, but this is keeping me awake.
I think we can use ram pumps to solve the energy crisis. First we build a hollow cylindrical tower out at sea, to a depth of say 1100m. The tower is open to the air at the top and has a sealed base at the bottom. We drill a hole about 20m below the surface and feed water into the tower. The water falls down a pipe for about 200m where it powers a turbine that is connected to an electricity generator. We collect the water and drop it down a pipe for another 200m to another turbine. We do this twice more until we are getting electricity from four generators.
We then drop the water another 200m to power a turbine which drives a cog that is geared to turn a disc at the base of the tower. The waste water from the last turbine starts to collect at the bottom of the tower creating a shallow reservoir that we need to pump out.
The rotating disc at the base of the tower has cams along its edge. These cams are used to push pistons outwards. These pistons are in cylinders built into the wall in a circular formation. The cylinders are sealed at the interior side apart from where a piston rod enters to push the piston outward. The outside of the piston head is exposed to the deep sea water.
The cam will push the piston outward against the high pressure deep sea water. An inlet pipe will take water from our shallow reservoir which will be pulled into the space created in the cylinder, behind the piston head. When the cam releases the piston, the low pressure water inside the cylinder will be the only thing pushing the piston out against the high pressure deep sea water.
This is when the system acts as a ram pump.
The piston will be forced inward and will force the low pressure water back out through the inlet pipe toward the reservoir. The inlet pipe will now act the same as a waste pipe in a ram pump and the flowing water will shut a waste valve. The remaining water in the cylinder will be forced through a check valve into a pipe and upwards to the surface.
The larger the diameter of the tower, the more cylinders that can be built into the wall at the base of the tower.
I realise that the ram pump cylinder will pump more of its water back into the reservoir than it sends to the surface but we can always add more cylinders to the system. We can even put another layer of cylinders above the original ones as ram pumps still work underneath shallow water.
I think we should be able to pump water upwards at the same rate that it falls into the bottom of the tower and so keep the reservoir nice and shallow.
Now, if I understand the maths correctly, we might only be able to pump the water near to the surface. In that case, we can pump the water into a reservoir tank (inside the tower) and use the electricity generated by the first turbine to pump out the tank.
This will leave us with 3 generators worth of electricity for every tower built.
Would this work? Everyone, please comment.
i love that you start with a little off topic
12 organs, she can have whatever she wants.
However totally agree with you, so happy to see her back and super excited to see what she will do but realistically we should not expect too much and all this media hype made everyone expect too much
🙏 🎉
Sorry you mention a brand after praising Peter Do but i can't understand what is it, mayas and drazenda (?) thanks in advance
For the first point, it is definitely HARDER to make people want to buy clothing from a once thought of “unfashionable” brand. So for that I must disagree
Ofcourse that one is harder, but i was looking here at the big picture and the status quo today. She is a succesfull designer now and will therefore be compared to her latest designs, not her earliest.
My thinking is there are a lot of people who just say they love her but never owned her pieces they just know it’s cool to like her. No doubt her brand will be aimed at a very wealthy customer base which I have no doubt she has.
On Bottega the RTW has dipped in creativity and Peter Do is pretty limited.
Lol the girls are going to be so shook with the truth bombs you're dropping. The amount of support she gets from people who never bought her pieces is hilarious.
True, this will definetely effect her success, if it will have the same price policy. But i think thats what many designers experience ones they are trendy. But the affection people have for Phoebe is just a whole other level and may be more a bubble than true support.
@@tubaavalon I've been keeping up with Hedi's Celine for a while now. While I'm not personally a fan of any deviation from his 2013 Saint Laurent era, I have bought into his fragrances at Celine since it stays true to his overall vision for fragrances. I have the ones he creatively directed at Dior to compare, so I understand how unwavering his vision is, despite updating it for the modern audience.
Many English-speaking individuals online have disparaging remarks on his Celine collections, and I had very pessimistic thoughts on its success since I didn't see many people buying into it. It wasn't until I installed China's social media platform, RED, that I was able to see how much activity there was around Celine in China. I'm not surprised when the latest LVMH report says that Celine is "hugely successful."
Choosing K-Pop stars as brand faces was a well thought move here also. Btw are the fragrances good?
This is completely non sense.
You could say the same when she was at Chloe. “How can she surprise us?!” Her Chloe vision was well copied as well. But Phoebe always found a way to re invent yourself and challenging hers and our vision. Her secret also stays in having the best eye for recruiting fresh young creative talents who will bring even more fire.
I am 100% CONFIDENT Phoebe will come up with something new, unexpected that will make us all fall in love with her brand and, of course, a new wave of copy and paste for the designers who are scratiching the bottom of her Celine greatest hits. Sorry I like your videos but that’s a complete fail. But let’s review this in a year or so :)
I don’t think you can compare her Chloé days to the impact she had with Céline. What you are saying is basically, she was good before, why shouldnt she be as good anymore. Arent there enough examples that prove, many designers did not have ongoing success? She has a different approach this time, focusing on sustainability and probably different values for her designs also. Maybe people shouldnt take this whole topic too personal. This is just a different view on the story. But lets just talk in a year from now or so :)
Well, she just got picked up by Bergdorf Goodman, so I’m guessing she’s probably gonna have more success than your predictions will have🤦🏽♀️
Curious what you think. I was disappointed, I think she was relying too much on the successful pieces from the past & recreated them with small changes.
Biggest thing about this whole Old Celine story is that if you like a designer and/or brand, go and f*ng buy their stuff in retail. Otherwise, this designer would be fired, like Phoebe.
omg thats so true
Arnault sacrifices Rihanna's Fenty to get Philo back, so at least it's already good in economic scale
haha true! Fenty fashion was still too costume-y and low on quality unfortunately
I love your knit! May I know how to get it ?
Like who are you to tell that her brand is going to b be failed ? Not agree at all !
i actually am..her father.
can't argue with your analysis - awesome channel BTW - but (of course) what you are really doing is laying the grounds for low expectations .. and probably rightly so .. there is a chance she will become provincial - outside paris, without corporate structure - i can't help but reflect on jean muir, christopher kane and burberry and victoria beckham - but it will be a real test of phoebe philo's potential coco chanel-like talent that she does this. And she's not shying away from it. Can you imagine the PP logo ?????!!!! I note other views on diversity and body positivity but her celine design studio was very diverse judging by the names of all the great designers who have emerged since so i think we can trust her to have a good point of view on that. And probably body positivity too judging by her thing with volume and draping. Anyway obviously I think her talent will triumph over any constraints and it will be thrilling when it does cos we need people like phoebe philo, not just in fashion but in the world, people you can get behind and really be inspired by.
i’m sorry what’s the brand you mentioned before khaite? i feel stupid but i didn’t get the name
Yes that’s the brand.
discovering you channel was such a nice surprise!! but i didn’t get the name of one of the brands you mentioned: bottega, peter do, khaite, proenza, toteme and (?)…
Proenza, totem - not even close.. tastemakers see her value. Like Mozart.
Joan Didion is not the epitome of sophistication and intellect. She’s the epitome of solipsism and histrionic behaviour. Camille Paglia is the epitome of sophistication and intellect. I think that Phoebe’s line will ultimately fail because we are living in a post-Demna post-fashion era. It’s not really cool or interesting to look like you care about what you’re wearing unless you’re wearing some crazy archival piece. But for the most part, once the brand is on ssense it’s practically dead at that point
Thanks for enlightening on Joan Didion. This was my personal feeling of her and her image. But still i wouldnt say people don’t care about their looks anymore. Yes, we see an increase in comfortable sportswear inspired pieces in fashion, mostly due to lockdown, but there are many other brands that prove that people still crave for a sophisticated and thoughtful look. And to the ssense point - why is it inmediately a problem, when a designer generates a bit more of commercial success? I dont talk about hyped or trendy brands. But why can we not like a brand the moment more than 3 people know about it. Being niche is nice, but i am usually very happy for the designers, seeing them in good online stores, generating revenue.
@@tubaavalon I think it less that people don't care about the way they look, but more that it's a bit gauche and uncool to appear as though you put a lot of effort in. If you're a gallery director, or a high-powered career woman, fine...it makes sense to dress in Proenza and JW. I'm speaking more from a position of what I see young people wearing on the street. And in terms of not liking a brand once it becomes popular, I think that the fashion industry primes our minds to associate quality with exclusivity. And especially now that shein and fashionnova can produce high quality knock-offs of the latest Bottega pieces, many items become tired more quickly than in the past.
I think there's also the fact that she hasn't been there for 4 years? She has a lot to catch up like right now the topics are different, fashion has kind of change in terms of durability, sustainability, eco-responsibility etc etc, so she's gonna have to live with this whole new generation, the millennial sort of analyzing more the society, the brand in itself, the ethic, the values etc rather than the clothes in themselves which I guess back then at old celine didn't matter as much as it does today.
I think LVMH has been desperately driven by greed and the need to grow, which is both good and bad in this situation. They replaced Philo with Slimane, which is more commercial, just like they replaced Raf Simons with MGC, and Kris Van Assche with Kim Jones, and then Kim Jones with Virgil Abloh. Now as Bottega Venetta has brought back minimalism with a much more modern touch and become a hit, LVMH wants it again and use Phoebe Philo to be more competitive.
However, if Phoebe continued to pursue her previous brandless aesthetics at Celine, it would probably be a commercial failure again (most minimalism brands are still unprofitable: Victoria Beckham, The Row, Jil Sander just to name a few). She will sell in the beginning no matter what as a result of the fans' eagerness, but in the long run, the brand needs to be more commercial to survive. It will need to focus on accessories like Bottega Veneta/Jacquemus/Hermes, or smartly incorporate brand awareness elements like Prada/Valentino while still maintains Phoebe's artistic roots that the fans came to love.
Maybe you should spend more time researching what phoebe did at Celine. Did you see how she turned that brand around and what she did? Accessories. Bags. Shoes. She know what she is doing. You do you boo boo
@@ShweMyaukMyauk I know what she did dude. I like her crazy ass accessories too. But they were not the focus of the brand, marketing-wise, even after the trapeze bag became a phenomenon. And overall, Celine promotion during her time was brandless. It sold her aesthetics, not the brand. Even now sometimes it is impossible to tell an outfit is from Phoebe Philo's Celine, The Row or Peter Do. The lack of an identifiable brand turned the new generation of consumers away. That's why Celine was not profitable enough to keep her. The existing fanbase could not even help.
7 organs.
This is such a great video and I completely agree with you. I’m excited to see if she’s going to add menswear. It’s needed I fear.
Yes! Menswear is a must!
Off topic but is your spencer by filippa K ?
I think she would have to do something extremely over the top to match the expectations. A lot of thinks in her kind of style has been done by brands you mentioned, so it wouldn't be revolutionary or mind-blowing for her to do stuff in her style right now. Expectations are low for me unfortunately :((((
I guess we need to distance ourselves from céline, but just let her do. Maybe we‘ll be surprised and it will be as interesting, but different
@@tubaavalon yes, exactly
…. Sold out in 4 days
I personally think she is a bit overrated, even in her Chloe days. I felt like the Celine hype was always over the bags rather than the design. Would probably prefer Lucie Meier and Luke Meier or Lemaire.
I am a female identifying who's liking the aesthetics and ideas of Celine BUT really hating on what PHILO's personal style unfortunately did to the 2010s based on how ±normal± women interpreted her minimalism. I am speaking of young women (my whole female colleague team back then) dressing toned-down in oversized wool coats, the infamous seen-to-the-nausea stan smiths, huge shooping totes made from overly glazed hard leather, coming to the office with their coffee in the hand, feeling like they are IT, while they looked like every other philo fan. I know this is not the designers fault whatsover, I'm just complaining on what people actually DID with the minimalism of hers. I am a maximalist all the way and I enjoy that a LOT. Also... seeing what ppl do with minimalism within the interior: empty and standart looking flats with no character but hip plants on billy shelves for example.
Tubasound is back!
Was never gone 🚀
Phoebe or Tisci to replace Michele at Gucci
I mean.... I think she can top that. Like she could have an incredible debut collection and have Daria front the campaign. Let's be real... Dotwillow isn't really doing anything for any one right now
Its possible ofcourse, but i still see it a little hard to top her previous achievements. But maybe more niche this time.
Love your Channel and you remind me off actress Nesrin Cavadzade she is Turkish 😍 and you both really beautiful.
hahaha only turkish kids will know. Thank you, she‘s super beautiful 🙃
0 organs. I mean I like her designs but I think there's also a danger of killing creativity when you stan a designer so much that it becomes your entire identity. I've seen girls on IG wearing all old Celine looks and I'm like... it's cool but can you do something different than the runway? Or add a personal touch to it? Then there are of course the ones like me that admire her work but have never bought a piece (will probably do it if the prices are reasonable or if there's anything left for the sales).
I don't think she will "fail" as in her brand will go bankrupt after a year or two. I'm not sure what your definition of fail is. I think she might not meet everyone's expectations but that she will be creative enough to be a consistent force in the market. Maybe her brand will almost die at one point, after which LVMH will completely buy it and will bring a young designer to revive it in 20 years' time like she did with Celine. But I expect her name to remain solid in the fashion world.
Almost 3 mins into the video and nothing concrete on the statement of her “failure”. Just overdone editing and odd sarcasm in a monotone voice. Not watching the rest of this video.
Thank you for appreciating my imovie skills 🎉
Oh - oh
it’s the editing police everybody!
another great video! though i think you’re pronouncing epitome wrong
haha, whats the right way?
@@tubaavalon "uh-pi-tuh-mee". i used to make the same mistake lol
Actually, Peter is also coming from Céline 😂 where he was junior/senior designer
thats what i said, but ok
@@tubaavalon Oh sorry Tuba, I haven’t noticed. Love your videos and channel
0 organs.
I mean I’d tell her I’m pulling for her but I’d also be wearing something from her new collection while giving my condolences.
Hahahaha omg yes
I think Phoebe might replace Virgil
I wouldn’t bet on that
I think this videos lacks a clear definition of „success“ . you say she can never be as successful as she was before and probably you’re right , but is that really the goal of her brand? Also not being as successful as before ≠ failure.
i don’t think it will be her goal, but it’s what we expect of her, that will be the fail. our vision of her new brand. I ofcourse do trust in her and still hope she will do whatever she does best and make us all as enthusiastic as before.
I think that you are very pessimistic and you are just doing conjectures. It seems like you just want to have a viral video. You are startig your video telling us that you are creating super profesional videos, and your whole video is just conjectures. You should know that super talented people are the ones that they can create something that you haven't seen before and we should all believe and dream of creativity and talent. And not be just pessimists before we even have seen what phoebe or any talented person, gives us...maybe you should think that point of view.
I understand all your thoughts, but the point of a video is not to praise all designers to the skies. We want to discuss and illuminate all facets here. And of course, an opinion on a launch that won't happen for another year is just conjecture. Unfortunately, I don't hang out with her privately. And maybe you should know that I'm a very ironic person, just for the record, because of professionalism and all that.
I only have one word.... EXTREMELY
haha, whats wrong with not improving my english vocabulary since 8th grade?
@@tubaavalon nono i love it! I’m gonna use it more too :D
Opinions are like arseholes everyone has one. Millennials think they can talk their way into joining the club. The work that PP gave to her craft is not up for discussion by the hipster victims. You have no clue about what it takes carve out your statement. you are just just chewing on what you've read about her and you think that makes you relevant ...sort it out !! Blah blah blah
If John galliano can start & stop as you put it so can she.
wooooooooooooo
Yaaaaaaay 🥳💖
🔥🔥🔥
💖
Poor pessimist girls, she know fashion a lot better than u.😂
love this alliteration, could be my next label - poor&pessimist-
9 organs
9
You can dress. Wow.
👼🏻
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