After buying a new Cruze on 11-30-18, I can attest that the reputation car dealers have is 100% true. I was assured of a specific price, but that didn’t happen. And when I refused all of the rip off ancillary products (extended warranties, protection plans, etc.), I was offered one for free, and I said no. So I was told one would be thrown in for free, yet I was charged $250. The product (car) is fantastic, the process below sewer level.
Personally for me at 83 the single most important issue is ingress and egress, if I cannot get in or out of the vehicle easily it is totally useless to me, I don't think manufacturers pay sufficient attention to this very important detail, also the remainder of the ergonomics of the vehicle also effect the impression of the vehicle as are its road manners. With someone like myself with many years of experience driving various makes and models I tend to notice things that others perhaps may overlook. My vehicle is more than just transportation it is a reflection of who I am.
I don't know how it works with Edmunds and the dealers and manufacturers. Would you be willing to explain the relationship you have with them? The reason I ask is because after watching this video it seems to me that even though you are honest with the answers and advice they seem to stop short of telling it all. What I mean is you don't seem to have a problem telling consumers what to look for on the contract, but you don't seem willing to tell them that car dealers make most of their profits off of add-ons and other back-end fees that are generally greatly inflated and that they aren't required to buy. I see one comment that calls you a shill for the car companies. Do you feel that you need to address this comment? I'm just a consumer that wants to know that Edmunds is doing what's fair and right for us as well as them. If you are concerned with lumping all dealers together when there may be some dealers that don't use unethical business practices I can understand that. But the ethical dealers should want you to expose the unethical ones. And the consumer definitely needs to know. The auto contract is the most abused contract out there. Dealers use it like a game of hide and seek and most of the time the consumer loses. Let's think about this. Who makes the contract? The dealer. Who fills out the contract? The dealer. How much input does the consumer have when it comes to the contract? Zero. So we know the dealers are protected. Is this a fair way to treat consumers? Why is the Truth in Lending required on contracts? Because too many consumers were complaining about not understanding the financial portion of the contract. So they took the financial information and put it in an easier to follow format. I'm working with Sen. Gene Davis of Utah to try and make the contract more consumer friendly. I don't want to tell dealers what they can or can't offer. But I do want to make sure that the consumer doesn't have to play a game of hide and seek. What I am suggesting is similar to the Truth in Lending. I would like to have a page or section that centralizes these charges, Price of vehicle, trade-in value, and any warranties or options that the consumer has requested or agreed to purchase. It would have the price and a place to sign or initial showing that the consumer is aware and agreeing to these charges. Don't you think the consumers should have an easier contract to sign so that they can feel protected also? I would like to know what you think of this idea. And if you have any suggestions to improve on it. It would also be nice if you would be willing to help consumers by backing this idea.
Hi my name is Sarah, I’m the Community Manager here at Edmunds. Thank you for reaching out with these excellent questions! It sounds like you may want to speak directly with our Experts for a detailed rundown on how we work with both consumers and dealers. You can reach out to help@edmunds.com to speak directly with our team. That being said, we are here to partner with shoppers as a resource to provide confidence in their buying decisions. We have several in-depth articles on our site to provide transparency and educate shoppers. A few examples are: Where Does the Car Dealer Make Money?: edmu.in/2pUoejwDealer Hold Back, What Is Is and How It Works: edmu.in/2pUrpaO A vehicle purchase is one of the biggest buys a consumer can make, and confidence in pricing is a crucial part of this. A few examples include a tool to lock in a new car price, Edmunds Price Promise (www.edmunds.com/price-promise.html), and a tool for appraisals on Used cars and trade-ins, or Edmunds True Market Value (www.edmunds.com/tmv.html). If there are any areas of concern that shoppers still need assistance with, Edmunds has a team of expert advisors ready to partner with shoppers at any phase of their car buying journey at no cost to them: help.edmunds.com/hc/en-us
David Johnson you have every right to question every line in a printed contract form. If there is an added charge you don't feel is fair..make them cross it off. The deal is being made between 2 parties and too many consumers believe a printed form is unchangeable because it's supposedly "official" from the seller...well guess what ... you can add changes to the printed form contract also....dont let them control you or the deal...
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
Leaves a hole: don't pay for paperwork or deliver. Gap: use your regular insurance. Sealent: don't wax the car for the first year. Fabric protector: 2 cans of Scotch Guard cost 20$ at Walmart.
The real secret is that virtually 100% of new car seats are already pre-treated. If they "sell" it to you it is 100% profit as it is already there from the factory..
Yea i tuned them out after he said several inquiries wont "really" effect your credit score. Thats bullshit, go to your bank and get the loan there. That car dealer will run your credit and and you'll have anywhere from 5-12 new inquiries on your report and you still won't get the best interest rate for the car.
I read my contract and saved 500 dollars! And I asked for the Simonize and it was included for ninety nine dollars! Margaret will like that. I had it on my Volvo. It was called Teflon. It really helps...
I’ve heard good and bad things about down payments, what are the pros and cons? If I give a down payment, how do I avoid getting hustled by the dealership?
Can anyone show me the metrics of credit score and income graphic before I go and embarrass myself getting pre-approved? my income isn't as high as I would like it but I was trying for uber eats until my car got flooded by the hurricane so I got 5k for a down payment I am willing to give at the moment! I work at a family business.
ive been searching so many cars for about 3 months. Searching reviews and searching top selling, most reliable cars. Visiting dealer websites and dealer locations. Driven two cars I had in mind but overall I still don't know what car I want. None give me the "I want this car" feel. I just don;t know what to do. Plus my budget is not great, so im worried for a used car since I don't know the problems it will give me and I am worried for a newer car because of the price and payments. I really don't know where to go from here
ryukdluffy Drive all cars that comes to mind. You may find the car youd never think of being "the one", also just follow your instincts. Without judgement or preference. Even so. A temporary used car is probably best. It can spark an interest
HarvF Instead of using "I want this car feel" as the criteria for choosing a car, you would be better off asking yourself, if you really need a new car and what you need it for i.e., driving to school, commuting to work or what. Otherwise, in one to two years with your brand new car, you'll be stuck with more debt than you can handle, as you mentioned that your budget is not great. Think it over very carefully. If you decide to buy another car, you should seriously consider buying a used one that's one to five years old; consult Consumer Reports April 2018 edition for recommended used cars. When you find the one you like, take it to your auto mechanic to have it inspected for any major defects. Hope my advice helps you make an informed decision.
Would you recommend getting a car pre-inspected? Even if it's from the Lexus dealership? And who would I trust to actually thoroughly inspect the car to ensure I'm not buying a lemon?
If it is a preowned vehicle, it can’t be a lemon. Each state has individual lemon laws but odds are it’s not going to happen. But personally I do recommend you get the vehicle inspected
One thing you forgot to mention...Don't let the dealer touch the car after you agree to buy it...don't let them take it "around back" and "get it ready for you. "They often pull the battery and exchange it for an older cheaper one, or even pull the tires. One dealer even pulled the air conditioning unit on a car I was buying! . When I close the deal I tell the dealer "if any of your salesman or mechanics or anyone in your company so much as touch the car I am buying...the deal is off!" That's just one of my pet peeves with these crooks...also I never negotiate price...I know what I want and how much I'm going to pay...I walk in with a number...that is the number...period....no additions no "deals." I only pay cash, and I have any guarantees in writing...with research about how well that dealer fulfills their guarantee. One complaint on Yelp I might let it slide, two or more I find a different dealer.
any good stratagies you've personally used to get that 5000 less? and is that usually the number you start off with or do you work your way down to that ?
This is some of the best advice/information I think I've ever heard. Thank you. I have two quick questions. I'm getting out of a 2014 Chevy SS and into a minivan. I don't dare drive them the same way. What should I be looking at as a new minivan driver. Also, I heard the undercoat and extended warranty on a new car they try to sell you is garbage. How do I get out of that conversation and just skip to the sign and deliver part?
Just purchase a new car, the original terms was 72 months. On the contract they added an additional 3payments. whould that be considered truth in lending. Also added an extra $500 when questioned he stayed it was first month intetest charge. Thanxs
Hi Lynn, thanks for reaching out! I have a snippet of Truth in Lending when it comes to your contract, please see below. Regarding the $500 interest on ONE month's payment, and the extra 3 months tacked on to your contract, we certainly recommend getting this clarified by your Finance Manager. That much money on one month's payment seems high, and the extra three months is a bit confusing if that is not what was negotiated for your deal. Contacting your Finance Manager or the General Manager can hopefully help clear up these charges. "What is a Truth-in-Lending Disclosure? When do I get to see it? The federal Truth-in-Lending Act - or “TILA” for short - requires that borrowers receive written disclosures about important terms of credit before they are legally bound to pay the loan. These important terms include:Annual Percentage Rate: the APR is the cost of credit expressed as a yearly rate in a percentage;Finance Charge: cost of credit expressed as a dollar amount (this is the total amount of interest and certain fees you will pay over the life of the loan if you make every payment when due);Amount Financed: the dollar amount of credit provided to you (this is normally the amount you are borrowing);Total of Payments: the sum of all the payments that you will have made at the end of the loan (this includes repayment of the principal amount of the loan plus all of the finance charges)The TILA disclosures will also include other important terms such as the number of payments, the monthly payment, late fees,, whether you can prepay your loan without a penalty, and other important terms.Note that the TILA disclosure is often provided as part of the loan contract, so you may be given the entire contract for review when you ask for the TILA disclosure. You should review it all, paying special attention to the disclosures noted above. You should always insist on receiving and reviewing your TILA disclosure before you sign your loan contract." Thanks again for reaching out, have a good day!
Don't listen to these guys! They work for the car companies! Never pay the price they are showing in their websites even if it's a great deal. If a dealer is discounting 2-3k of MSRP without asking for a discount chances are you can get them to take of another 3k if you know how to negotiate
What can you say about a dealer who won’t sell a new Kia Carnival unless you get the theft protection and insurance/inside seal/window tint/wheel locks amounting to like additional $3K? Saying it’s the cost of business? Is this standard? This happened to us today.
There is no need to get pre-approved. Better to simply learn your credit score and research available rates for that credit score. These are available on line or at your bank/credit union. Always let the dealer try to beat the best rate you find. To price a used car, do not simply rely on Edmunds. There are other sources including KBB and NADA. The value will differ between these three sites. Average the three. Car Max is a good idea. However, if you sell to Car Max you will lose the sales tax advantage you get if you trade. For example, if the trade value is $10,000 and the sales tax is 6 percent, you will pay $600 less in sales tax than you would if you did not trade the vehicle to the dealer. Pricing is best done before asking for quotes. Take invoice less holdback less incentives. That gives you a starting point. Note, dealers pay far less than invoice for the vehicle. That is why dealers can sell at invoice or below. Never use a site like Edmunds to get a quote. Edmunds is in cahoots with the dealer. Contact the dealer directly for a quote. Never pay a fee other than those imposed by the government (sales tax and registration). Documentation fees are fake. They are simply the selling price separated into two parts, price and fee. If the dealer has a doc fee of $400, simply reduce the price you want to pay by that $400.
Some bad advice here. Just because you have a certain credit score that doesn't mean you qualify for a certain rate. The rate you get is based on more than your score. Getting pre-approved is a good idea. Not a necessity, but a good idea. A lot better than just looking at advertised rates and assuming you qualify for the best they offer. At most dealers you have to pay the document processing fee or doc fee. You may think it's fake but you still have to pay it. If you haven't stripped all the meat off the bone, yes, you can ask them to take $400 off the price to compensate, but if they're already on a losing deal they won't have another $400 to lose and you'll just have to pay the doc fee.
1. As much as possible negotiate don't mention it but buy cash. 2. If you get a better price don't trade it just sell your old car. 3. Refer to a mechanic. Scotty Kilmer gives the best advice.
When buying a new car, don't focus on monthly payments. Focus on the bottom line out the door price. And don't let the salesman lead you into a car deal, that did not really want. And if buy a warranty, don't focus on the monthly payments, ask how much is the warranty. You might want to purchase it elsewhere, it will be
If you're looking to buy a warranty you might want to buy it elsewhere dealerships dealerships have the tendency of bumping up the price as much as 40% or more to make a profit.
Act in haste, repent at leisure. When buying a car you know its a good price if you know you could sell that car tomorrow for virtually the same price.
Yes...but don't tell the salesman you are paying cash up front. Let them assume( not lying necessarily) your financing, and when you get the deal you want, tell them your paying cash then.
I am 80 years old. My husband is disabled. I need a big trunk that can hold a wheel chair..I am terrified of getting dementia. Should I buy or lease. .
Good on you for being on here and doing your research. Bottom line is you need to find out what the actual cost of the car is. That's going to take some real research. There are some car buying services out there, but they sometimes won't do all vehicles, like the Toyota Camry.
That's so true I purchased a certified pre-owned BMW and ticket to a different dealership 3 weeks after purchase for a service and found out it had a oil leak in the rear main seal 😣🤣🤣
PeaceOut no, cash is out these days. Dealers can get kickbacks and extra help from banks in future car deals. So cash is no longer king. In fact many different manufacturers offer rebates if you finance through their finance arm
Don't let your dream car purchase turn into a nightmare where you buy the wrong features and pay through the nose for them. Dealers are tough but most have a reputation to keep and aren't crooks. Recognize when a deal is going south and walk out.
You actually want to go in when the new model year is coming out. Dealers want to get rid of the current year. But most importantly is to buy at end of month when dealers need to sell a car or two to qualify for their sales incentive, which can be as much as $50,000, and yes a dealer will sell at a loss on a car or two to get that bonus. Of course they will not just give it away either. If the dealer is in the new model year say the new 2020's but still has some new 2018's, you can usually get your best deals on them such as $4000 - 6000 without having to negotiate, but do so and get another thousand or so off that vehicle.
This isn’t really true, it is a common misperception because of advertisements through the manufactures. Dealerships need to sell cars in January February March April May June July August September October November and December
So I got one question about buying a car when do u sign the paper work to check your credit before u see your options or see what’s u can get after I’m asking because I’m new to buying and I feel like they rushed me I thought they would sho me the cars with in my budget then I can choose the car and see if I’m approved
Just watched your informative video :) My 2008 Toyota has approx 182,000 miles on it but was told by Toyota that I will need approx $2500 in repairs so I am not sure what to do. I am on a limited income so I want to do what is best long term. I don't have anyone to ask for advice, so I am hoping you could give me your advice. Would it be better to sell my car and buy a new Camry or fix my old one? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
@@everybuddy5924 The tools will usually be the most expensive part. If you factor the cost of the tools and the parts for the car, these normally amount to about the same cumulative dealership repair bill. You just get to keep the tools when you are done!
$2,500 to fix a Camry 08 with 182,000? What are they planning to fix? If it isn't the engine or transmission it sounds like they are taking you for a joyride. For $2500-$3000 you can buy a used Camry with 100,000-150,000 miles without major repairs off Craigslist.
Brenda O make sure you do some research on the sales person before you buy from them. My recommendation is to do research on each of the individual sales people before you even walk into the dealership that way you know who you want to deal with. Most manufactures require the sales people to go over the car with you otherwise they fail and can be fired, lose bonuses or just be banned from selling that manufacture in the first place
You'll also spend more time doing it. Also, if you need that money first for like a down payment or just because you can't qualify for enough to cover the entire new car with a loan. And you still need a car to drive to work everyday then sometimes it gets difficult.
Yes, in most cases. However, if you sell the used vehicle yourself you will lose the sales tax reduction you get if you trade the vehicle to the dealer.
My advice for this would be, advertise privately, THEN when you get a sale, go and do your test drives and negotiations. Time is what you save trading your car in, not money, so why not make that time work for you by advertising your car privately way beforehand?
Selling privately is not always the best approach. The reason is the tax break most states allow for a trade vehicle. For example, if you trade a vehicle for $10,000 and the sales tax is 6 percent, you will save $600 in sales tax on the purchase of he new vehicle. In this example, to make a private sale worthwhile you would need to sell at $10,600 or more. Even at $11,000, foe example, is an extra $400 worth the time and effort to sell privately?
If you are paying cash, then we would recommend that you speak to the dealer up front about that so they know what to expect from the transaction, and still follow the steps to research, test drive it, check on rebates/ incentives, and review your paperwork closely to make sure there are no add-ons to that price without your permission. Ask any questions you may have about the car's technology, or the contract, and take your proper delivery!
What does cash or financing have to do with the price of the vehicle itself? How would telling the dealer you are paying cash benefit you as a buyer? Would it lower the cost of the vehicle or would the price increase because the dealer would not make any money on the financing?
L B then you, sir, or mam, are one of the smart people, my first payment on a new car is ALWAYS my last, silly people finance, how people can piss their hard earned money away on interest is beyond me! I had a coworker say to me the other day, i finance because other wise I can’t have what I want, I said to him, it’s hard for you to keep what you want when you lose your job, and btw, you have no right saying you BOUGHT A CAR TODAY, when in fact the BANK did, you can have what you want if your responsible and save
Do I have much negotiating power as a buyer when I've had to order a new vehicle from a Dealer? It is a new model year and in demand vehicle. The local dealers do not have stock of the vehicle.
My must haves were automatic transmission,sat nav with rear view camera and bluetooth for music. I went to many dealers and managed to get a black Toyota Yaris Hybrid, it was 4 years old but only had 16k miles with all my must haves, plus it was cheap to insure for me as a young newer driver. Was also in my favourite colour black and my second favourite brand next to Honda. My ideal car would be a Honda though, I's love to get a civic or the Insight hybrid as my next car in a couple of years time
If the manufacturer offers it there is no hidden fees, there are no prepayment penalties. So if you pay it off and 60 months you don’t pay more or anything extra. If a dealership is offering it through one of their other banks you might want to take a look at the fine print
Tom The Car Guy what I meant is.. there is no such thing as 0% interest. They’re gonna make their money one way or another. If they say it’s 0% it means theyre quoting you higher per month at 0% interest. They could’ve just as easily quoted you lower monthly with 10% interest. But they know that don’t sound as good as 0%.
supershroom164 and again, you’re wrong. I’ve sold 3 manufacturers who have all offered 0%. It is 0% at that point it’s simple math. 45,000 @ 0 for 60mo is 750 a month. 45,000 Divide 60... simple. You can’t put more into a payment
Please be aware .... Honking car locking... 1 Wakes people up. ( wakes children and babies) 2 Can be heard Inside Homes and buildings in the vicinity. 3 Can startle people walking on streets, in parking lots, and parking garages. 4 Creates dangerous health stress for people with Cardiac Disease, PTSD, Hypertension, Insomnia, and Migraines. Im a stroke survivor and cardiac patient. It makes my heart go arrythmic. 5 Creates startling and stressful noise in otherwise peaceful locations such as residential neighborhoods, parks, places of worship, schools, and hospital grounds. PLEASE lock your vehicle quietly with light flash Only for neighbors sleep at night and peace of mind during the day. The Auto Industry needs to create revised technology that does not emit intrusive noise into our communities. Thank you.
Can you please speak about the interest and the prime part of the loan? Interest is what you are paying for first, before you are really paying down the payment of the vehicle, so when and if we have extra cash we can actually pay on the prime of loan, and not the interest, this does impact the loan's interest, but you are permitted to pay more on your car payment when every you have extra cash, right? Can you please speak on that, no on wants to and the finance lady just laughs and says you dont want to talk about how much interest do you, no you do not, hahahha, so feeble.
Great car buying skill builders, the information flowed quite nicely. The road rage joke wasn’t funny, but more importantly, it was inappropriate and surely didn’t fit this important dialogue.
Daniel Wilson why? I sold a car to CarMax after advertising on Craigslist and having every freak in the world lowball me. Got $1,200 more than anything anyone would offer.
I sold my 10 year old Prius to Carmax and received $2,500 more than the dealer would pay or what I was offered on Craigslist. I was thrilled with the offer and had the check in 30 minutes.
Lots of people buy cars just because they're wealthy or want something new. The rest of us working stiffs have to pinch our pennies and try to get the best deal we can, when buying a brand new car. So, the suggestion that one should consider what he needs a new car for is a valid point.
Shill, I learned a new word today! noun 1. an accomplice of a hawker, gambler, or swindler who acts as an enthusiastic customer to entice or encourage others.
You are NOT advocating that you read the ENTIRE contract??? (stated a 7:15) No biased advice here. That is pure recklessness. Not read to what you're obligating yourself? SHAME ON YOU!!! This is proof that Edmonds.com exists for the benefit of the dealers, not the consumer.
Dave Ramsey is a fraud. His advice may be good for people who are financially ignorant, his audience. But for those of us who understand finance, his advice is always flawed and rarely relevant. For example why not take a zero or very low percent loan if available? Take the loan and leave the cash in an interest bearing account, make some money. Have the monthly payment automatically paid from that account.
@@scottr2706 I mean. You absolutely can do that and I recommend it if you have a history of solid credit. But shame on you for calling millions of people ignorant when many have gotten debt free because of dave Ramsey's rules. I understand what you mean but look at it. He is worth millions. I'm sure you arent...
I'm sick of the standard pablum on vehicles. For example, first: Horsepower. So what..if it's got 780hp..great., what's the estimated fuel mileage? 0 to 60?.., how about 55 to 75 ie passing performance. Second: Heater & other controls. Those freakin touch-screen buttons are often hard to find.., and HARDER to hit on bumpy roads; radio controls are stupid; worst, all controls require driver to take eyes off road; the screen is not angled toward driver. Where in hell are the National Highway Trans Safety folks on the ergonomics of this crap?? That center display is non-standard, and like I said, hard to use on less than smooth roadways, and require often extended time for the driver to search for some feature they have not memorized. UNSAFE. People/Viewers.., do listen to your commentary. Drive one of those pieces of shit on the back roads of this country and be looking at that 14 inch screen when a moose wanders onto the road - good freaking luck!
After buying a new Cruze on 11-30-18, I can attest that the reputation car dealers have is 100% true. I was assured of a specific price, but that didn’t happen. And when I refused all of the rip off ancillary products (extended warranties, protection plans, etc.), I was offered one for free, and I said no. So I was told one would be thrown in for free, yet I was charged $250. The product (car) is fantastic, the process below sewer level.
Personally for me at 83 the single most important issue is ingress and egress, if I cannot get in or out of the vehicle easily it is totally useless to me, I don't think manufacturers pay sufficient attention to this very important detail, also the remainder of the ergonomics of the vehicle also effect the impression of the vehicle as are its road manners.
With someone like myself with many years of experience driving various makes and models I tend to notice things that others perhaps may overlook. My vehicle is more than just transportation it is a reflection of who I am.
I don't know how it works with Edmunds and the dealers and manufacturers. Would you be willing to explain the relationship you have with them? The reason I ask is because after watching this video it seems to me that even though you are honest with the answers and advice they seem to stop short of telling it all. What I mean is you don't seem to have a problem telling consumers what to look for on the contract, but you don't seem willing to tell them that car dealers make most of their profits off of add-ons and other back-end fees that are generally greatly inflated and that they aren't required to buy. I see one comment that calls you a shill for the car companies. Do you feel that you need to address this comment? I'm just a consumer that wants to know that Edmunds is doing what's fair and right for us as well as them. If you are concerned with lumping all dealers together when there may be some dealers that don't use unethical business practices I can understand that. But the ethical dealers should want you to expose the unethical ones. And the consumer definitely needs to know. The auto contract is the most abused contract out there. Dealers use it like a game of hide and seek and most of the time the consumer loses. Let's think about this. Who makes the contract? The dealer. Who fills out the contract? The dealer. How much input does the consumer have when it comes to the contract? Zero. So we know the dealers are protected. Is this a fair way to treat consumers? Why is the Truth in Lending required on contracts? Because too many consumers were complaining about not understanding the financial portion of the contract. So they took the financial information and put it in an easier to follow format. I'm working with Sen. Gene Davis of Utah to try and make the contract more consumer friendly. I don't want to tell dealers what they can or can't offer. But I do want to make sure that the consumer doesn't have to play a game of hide and seek. What I am suggesting is similar to the Truth in Lending. I would like to have a page or section that centralizes these charges, Price of vehicle, trade-in value, and any warranties or options that the consumer has requested or agreed to purchase. It would have the price and a place to sign or initial showing that the consumer is aware and agreeing to these charges. Don't you think the consumers should have an easier contract to sign so that they can feel protected also? I would like to know what you think of this idea. And if you have any suggestions to improve on it. It would also be nice if you would be willing to help consumers by backing this idea.
Hi my name is Sarah, I’m the Community Manager here at Edmunds. Thank you for reaching out with these excellent questions! It sounds like you may want to speak directly with our Experts for a detailed rundown on how we work with both consumers and dealers. You can reach out to help@edmunds.com to speak directly with our team.
That being said, we are here to partner with shoppers as a resource to provide confidence in their buying decisions.
We have several in-depth articles on our site to provide transparency and educate shoppers. A few examples are: Where Does the Car Dealer Make Money?: edmu.in/2pUoejwDealer Hold Back, What Is Is and How It Works: edmu.in/2pUrpaO
A vehicle purchase is one of the biggest buys a consumer can make, and confidence in pricing is a crucial part of this. A few examples include a tool to lock in a new car price, Edmunds Price Promise (www.edmunds.com/price-promise.html), and a tool for appraisals on Used cars and trade-ins, or Edmunds True Market Value (www.edmunds.com/tmv.html). If there are any areas of concern that shoppers still need assistance with, Edmunds has a team of expert advisors ready to partner with shoppers at any phase of their car buying journey at no cost to them: help.edmunds.com/hc/en-us
David Johnson you have every right to question every line in a printed contract form. If there is an added charge you don't feel is fair..make them cross it off. The deal is being made between 2 parties and too many consumers believe a printed form is unchangeable because it's supposedly "official" from the seller...well guess what ... you can add changes to the printed form contract also....dont let them control you or the deal...
@@edmundscars ]
@@edmundscars your first link doesn't work anymore
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
Leaves a hole: don't pay for paperwork or deliver. Gap: use your regular insurance. Sealent: don't wax the car for the first year. Fabric protector: 2 cans of Scotch Guard cost 20$ at Walmart.
I can get you a better deal on that Scotchguard too.
The real secret is that virtually 100% of new car seats are already pre-treated. If they "sell" it to you it is 100% profit as it is already there from the factory..
I'm ceramic coating that beotch as soon as it hits my garage :/
2 years after your comment, the dealership wanted me to pay for $2000 for destination fee! Claims that it was a standard and no one can avoid it.
8:10 best advise. You really need to see the car during daylight.
I'm buying but not trading in. Where can I find a video that addresses that senrio?
Yea i tuned them out after he said several inquiries wont "really" effect your credit score. Thats bullshit, go to your bank and get the loan there. That car dealer will run your credit and and you'll have anywhere from 5-12 new inquiries on your report and you still won't get the best interest rate for the car.
You don’t know what you’re talking about. They’re absolutely correct regarding credit pulls.
My dream car is right behind these gentlemen.
1965, I believe. 327.
When you talk about price, should I be asking for the price of the car after tax and other state fees to see if it falls under my budget/wanted cost?
Chris Vue absolutely
I read my contract and saved 500 dollars! And I asked for the Simonize and it was included for ninety nine dollars! Margaret will like that. I had it on my Volvo. It was called Teflon. It really helps...
I’ve heard good and bad things about down payments, what are the pros and cons? If I give a down payment, how do I avoid getting hustled by the dealership?
I’ll have a video on down payment in the not so distant future
Is there like a paper I get when i get a pre approval that I take to the dealership? Or how will the dealership know that I got pre approved?
Great tips and presented extremely well Gentlemen.
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Can anyone show me the metrics of credit score and income graphic before I go and embarrass myself getting pre-approved? my income isn't as high as I would like it but I was trying for uber eats until my car got flooded by the hurricane so I got 5k for a down payment I am willing to give at the moment! I work at a family business.
ive been searching so many cars for about 3 months. Searching reviews and searching top selling, most reliable cars. Visiting dealer websites and dealer locations. Driven two cars I had in mind but overall I still don't know what car I want. None give me the "I want this car" feel. I just don;t know what to do. Plus my budget is not great, so im worried for a used car since I don't know the problems it will give me and I am worried for a newer car because of the price and payments. I really don't know where to go from here
ryukdluffy Drive all cars that comes to mind. You may find the car youd never think of being "the one", also just follow your instincts. Without judgement or preference. Even so. A temporary used car is probably best. It can spark an interest
HarvF
Instead of using "I want this car feel" as the criteria for choosing a car, you would be better off asking yourself, if you really need a new car and what you need it for i.e., driving to school, commuting to work or what. Otherwise, in one to two years with your brand new car, you'll be stuck with more debt than you can handle, as you mentioned that your budget is not great. Think it over very carefully. If you decide to buy another car, you should seriously consider buying a used one that's one to five years old; consult Consumer Reports April 2018 edition for recommended used cars. When you find the one you like, take it to your auto mechanic to have it inspected for any major defects. Hope my advice helps you make an informed decision.
Would you recommend getting a car pre-inspected? Even if it's from the Lexus dealership? And who would I trust to actually thoroughly inspect the car to ensure I'm not buying a lemon?
Def get it checked out by another place. It's $20-$30 and can save you thou$ands down the line.
If it is a preowned vehicle, it can’t be a lemon. Each state has individual lemon laws but odds are it’s not going to happen. But personally I do recommend you get the vehicle inspected
Showed this video to my personal finance class and they enjoyed it!
That's awesome! Thanks for watching, these live sessions had a lot of valuable info, glad your class enjoyed it!
One thing you forgot to mention...Don't let the dealer touch the car after you agree to buy it...don't let them take it "around back" and "get it ready for you. "They often pull the battery and exchange it for an older cheaper one, or even pull the tires. One dealer even pulled the air conditioning unit on a car I was buying! . When I close the deal I tell the dealer "if any of your salesman or mechanics or anyone in your company so much as touch the car I am buying...the deal is off!" That's just one of my pet peeves with these crooks...also I never negotiate price...I know what I want and how much I'm going to pay...I walk in with a number...that is the number...period....no additions no "deals." I only pay cash, and I have any guarantees in writing...with research about how well that dealer fulfills their guarantee. One complaint on Yelp I might let it slide, two or more I find a different dealer.
Sock Hawk you been getting hacked, i always negotiate prie and pay 5,000 less than tagged price
any good stratagies you've personally used to get that 5000 less? and is that usually the number you start off with or do you work your way down to that ?
lezamac6 What strategy did you use to get 5000 less than original price? My goal is 2018 jeep wrangler 4 door and their pretty up there in price
They really removed the battery out back ??
Insist on getting an on-the-road price.
It excellent for students. Our AVID teacher make us use this
This is some of the best advice/information I think I've ever heard. Thank you. I have two quick questions. I'm getting out of a 2014 Chevy SS and into a minivan. I don't dare drive them the same way. What should I be looking at as a new minivan driver. Also, I heard the undercoat and extended warranty on a new car they try to sell you is garbage. How do I get out of that conversation and just skip to the sign and deliver part?
Just purchase a new car, the original terms was 72 months.
On the contract they added an additional 3payments. whould that be considered truth in lending. Also added an extra $500 when questioned he stayed it was first month intetest charge. Thanxs
Hi Lynn, thanks for reaching out!
I have a snippet of Truth in Lending when it comes to your contract, please see below. Regarding the $500 interest on ONE month's payment, and the extra 3 months tacked on to your contract, we certainly recommend getting this clarified by your Finance Manager. That much money on one month's payment seems high, and the extra three months is a bit confusing if that is not what was negotiated for your deal. Contacting your Finance Manager or the General Manager can hopefully help clear up these charges.
"What is a Truth-in-Lending Disclosure? When do I get to see it?
The federal Truth-in-Lending Act - or “TILA” for short - requires that borrowers receive written disclosures about important terms of credit before they are legally bound to pay the loan. These important terms include:Annual Percentage Rate: the APR is the cost of credit expressed as a yearly rate in a percentage;Finance Charge: cost of credit expressed as a dollar amount (this is the total amount of interest and certain fees you will pay over the life of the loan if you make every payment when due);Amount Financed: the dollar amount of credit provided to you (this is normally the amount you are borrowing);Total of Payments: the sum of all the payments that you will have made at the end of the loan (this includes repayment of the principal amount of the loan plus all of the finance charges)The TILA disclosures will also include other important terms such as the number of payments, the monthly payment, late fees,, whether you can prepay your loan without a penalty, and other important terms.Note that the TILA disclosure is often provided as part of the loan contract, so you may be given the entire contract for review when you ask for the TILA disclosure. You should review it all, paying special attention to the disclosures noted above. You should always insist on receiving and reviewing your TILA disclosure before you sign your loan contract."
Thanks again for reaching out, have a good day!
Thank you! The last thing I want is for a dealership screwing me over. :)
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Don't listen to these guys! They work for the car companies! Never pay the price they are showing in their websites even if it's a great deal. If a dealer is discounting 2-3k of MSRP without asking for a discount chances are you can get them to take of another 3k if you know how to negotiate
Louie Vision I’d love to know where you get that idea from. Lol those days are long long gone. New car markup is 2-5% on most cars
Thank you so much guys
What can you say about a dealer who won’t sell a new Kia Carnival unless you get the theft protection and insurance/inside seal/window tint/wheel locks amounting to like additional $3K? Saying it’s the cost of business? Is this standard? This happened to us today.
Thanks so much,guys.
Great info to buying a car👍🏼👍🏼I am in the process of buying a used car based on Edmonds👍🏼👍🏼🤗🤗💙
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
I’m buying a new car anytime soon, I intend to drive it for 6 yrs., is extended warranty necessary?
excellent advise, thank you
There is no need to get pre-approved. Better to simply learn your credit score and research available rates for that credit score. These are available on line or at your bank/credit union. Always let the dealer try to beat the best rate you find.
To price a used car, do not simply rely on Edmunds. There are other sources including KBB and NADA. The value will differ between these three sites. Average the three. Car Max is a good idea. However, if you sell to Car Max you will lose the sales tax advantage you get if you trade. For example, if the trade value is $10,000 and the sales tax is 6 percent, you will pay $600 less in sales tax than you would if you did not trade the vehicle to the dealer.
Pricing is best done before asking for quotes. Take invoice less holdback less incentives. That gives you a starting point. Note, dealers pay far less than invoice for the vehicle. That is why dealers can sell at invoice or below. Never use a site like Edmunds to get a quote. Edmunds is in cahoots with the dealer. Contact the dealer directly for a quote.
Never pay a fee other than those imposed by the government (sales tax and registration). Documentation fees are fake. They are simply the selling price separated into two parts, price and fee. If the dealer has a doc fee of $400, simply reduce the price you want to pay by that $400.
The dealer will charge extra for finding you the best rate.
Some bad advice here.
Just because you have a certain credit score that doesn't mean you qualify for a certain rate. The rate you get is based on more than your score. Getting pre-approved is a good idea. Not a necessity, but a good idea. A lot better than just looking at advertised rates and assuming you qualify for the best they offer.
At most dealers you have to pay the document processing fee or doc fee. You may think it's fake but you still have to pay it. If you haven't stripped all the meat off the bone, yes, you can ask them to take $400 off the price to compensate, but if they're already on a losing deal they won't have another $400 to lose and you'll just have to pay the doc fee.
Where would you go to get pre approved?
Go To Good Credit Union!
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
1. As much as possible negotiate don't mention it but buy cash.
2. If you get a better price don't trade it just sell your old car.
3. Refer to a mechanic. Scotty Kilmer gives the best advice.
When buying a new car, don't focus on monthly payments. Focus on the bottom line out the door price. And don't let the salesman lead you into a car deal, that did not really want. And if buy a warranty, don't focus on the monthly payments, ask how much is the warranty. You might want to purchase it elsewhere, it will be
If you're looking to buy a warranty you might want to buy it elsewhere dealerships dealerships have the tendency of bumping up the price as much as 40% or more to make a profit.
I want Matt with me when I buy my next car... 😎👍
I really appreciate this video.
X ( Doubt )
Act in haste, repent at leisure.
When buying a car you know its a good price if you know you could sell that car tomorrow for virtually the same price.
Is it wise to pay cash for your desired auto up front if you can afford it rather than financing?
Yes...but don't tell the salesman you are paying cash up front. Let them assume( not lying necessarily) your financing, and when you get the deal you want, tell them your paying cash then.
4:29 😂😂😂 what the
Pick a topic, any topic….experts everywhere…,(right…”experts”)
I am 80 years old. My husband is disabled. I need a big trunk that can hold a wheel chair..I am terrified of getting dementia. Should I buy or lease. .
Depending if you have someone to leave it to buy it if not lease it.
Good on you for being on here and doing your research. Bottom line is you need to find out what the actual cost of the car is. That's going to take some real research. There are some car buying services out there, but they sometimes won't do all vehicles, like the Toyota Camry.
Lease short term leases
Nicotine and tobacco prevents dementia, so smoke more tobacco!
Beware you are not taking on the equivalent of a mortgage rather than a car loan.
Always get a pre-purchased inspection on a used car. It’ll save you a lot of money from buying an extended warranty & headaches in the future.
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
That's so true I purchased a certified pre-owned BMW and ticket to a different dealership 3 weeks after purchase for a service and found out it had a oil leak in the rear main seal 😣🤣🤣
Would I handle the situatiin differant if I would pay cash?
PeaceOut no, cash is out these days. Dealers can get kickbacks and extra help from banks in future car deals. So cash is no longer king. In fact many different manufacturers offer rebates if you finance through their finance arm
Did that guy really say Not to read the whole contract ? Lol WTF. Bad advice. Even if contract is mostly crap. ALWAYS READ IT
JASON JACKSON I couldn’t agree more. Unless you have bad credit are financing at a high rate, there is no need
if it's mostly crap why read the whole thing? that doesnt make any sense. why not just read the parts that arent crap, like he's saying?
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Don't let your dream car purchase turn into a nightmare where you buy the wrong features and pay through the nose for them. Dealers are tough but most have a reputation to keep and aren't crooks. Recognize when a deal is going south and walk out.
I heard that between September and December is the best time to purchase a vehicle...is this true, if not what are the best months
You actually want to go in when the new model year is coming out. Dealers want to get rid of the current year. But most importantly is to buy at end of month when dealers need to sell a car or two to qualify for their sales incentive, which can be as much as $50,000, and yes a dealer will sell at a loss on a car or two to get that bonus. Of course they will not just give it away either.
If the dealer is in the new model year say the new 2020's but still has some new 2018's, you can usually get your best deals on them such as $4000 - 6000 without having to negotiate, but do so and get another thousand or so off that vehicle.
January 1st.
Is the scientific statistically best day to go.
This isn’t really true, it is a common misperception because of advertisements through the manufactures. Dealerships need to sell cars in January February March April May June July August September October November and December
So I got one question about buying a car when do u sign the paper work to check your credit before u see your options or see what’s u can get after I’m asking because I’m new to buying and I feel like they rushed me I thought they would sho me the cars with in my budget then I can choose the car and see if I’m approved
I want a ZL1 but enough space for 6 people to fit in
Just watched your informative video :) My 2008 Toyota has approx 182,000
miles on it but was told by Toyota that I will need approx $2500 in
repairs so I am not sure what to do. I am on a limited income so I want
to do what is best long term. I don't have anyone to ask for advice, so I
am hoping you could give me your advice. Would it be better to sell my
car and buy a new Camry or fix my old one? Any advice would be
appreciated. Thanks.
You can fix the car yourself. Go watch Chrisfix and Scotty Kilmer to learn how. Those two RUclipsrs show you everything needed to repair anything.
@@henri6595 not everyone has the tools or the ability to do the work, even of they do know how to do it.
@@everybuddy5924 The tools will usually be the most expensive part. If you factor the cost of the tools and the parts for the car, these normally amount to about the same cumulative dealership repair bill. You just get to keep the tools when you are done!
$2,500 to fix a Camry 08 with 182,000? What are they planning to fix? If it isn't the engine or transmission it sounds like they are taking you for a joyride. For $2500-$3000 you can buy a used Camry with 100,000-150,000 miles without major repairs off Craigslist.
I don’t really get why they put research when this video was literally found from doing research
algorithm math
one must figure paying cash
michael doug jodi
Never never never had a salesperson explain anything to me about my new car. It would be nice, but just does not happen
Brenda O make sure you do some research on the sales person before you buy from them. My recommendation is to do research on each of the individual sales people before you even walk into the dealership that way you know who you want to deal with. Most manufactures require the sales people to go over the car with you otherwise they fail and can be fired, lose bonuses or just be banned from selling that manufacture in the first place
Going to buy a new camry in this week any help ?
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Listen to this BEFORE you buy a new/uses car
Who did the lighting for this set my God... other then that good tips especially from the guests.
On Step 3: Trade In, you'll get way more money if you sell your car yourself
You'll also spend more time doing it. Also, if you need that money first for like a down payment or just because you can't qualify for enough to cover the entire new car with a loan. And you still need a car to drive to work everyday then sometimes it gets difficult.
Yes, in most cases. However, if you sell the used vehicle yourself you will lose the sales tax reduction you get if you trade the vehicle to the dealer.
My advice for this would be, advertise privately, THEN when you get a sale, go and do your test drives and negotiations. Time is what you save trading your car in, not money, so why not make that time work for you by advertising your car privately way beforehand?
Selling privately is not always the best approach.
The reason is the tax break most states allow for a trade vehicle.
For example, if you trade a vehicle for $10,000 and the sales tax is 6 percent, you will save $600 in sales tax on the purchase of he new vehicle.
In this example, to make a private sale worthwhile you would need to sell at $10,600 or more. Even at $11,000, foe example, is an extra $400 worth the time and effort to sell privately?
William Vann Does that apply in every state?
video is really quiet other than that its good
"true coat" !!!!!!!!! haha haha yassssd
@@walteraarav6801 and what did you find?
You should never ask a question you don't already know the answer to.
Peter B. 🤔🤔🤔
So what if I'm paying cash for a brand new car instead of financing?
If you are paying cash, then we would recommend that you speak to the dealer up front about that so they know what to expect from the transaction, and still follow the steps to research, test drive it, check on rebates/ incentives, and review your paperwork closely to make sure there are no add-ons to that price without your permission. Ask any questions you may have about the car's technology, or the contract, and take your proper delivery!
you can pay up to $4,000 less than the tagged price
What does cash or financing have to do with the price of the vehicle itself? How would telling the dealer you are paying cash benefit you as a buyer? Would it lower the cost of the vehicle or would the price increase because the dealer would not make any money on the financing?
@@ddeckert7597 Paying cash might raise the price of the car. Dealer might get kickback from lender if you finance.
L B then you, sir, or mam, are one of the smart people, my first payment on a new car is ALWAYS my last, silly people finance, how people can piss their hard earned money away on interest is beyond me! I had a coworker say to me the other day, i finance because other wise I can’t have what I want, I said to him, it’s hard for you to keep what you want when you lose your job, and btw, you have no right saying you BOUGHT A CAR TODAY, when in fact the BANK did, you can have what you want if your responsible and save
Extended warranties are a rip off! I never buy them!
26humor26 my last car, warranty was $3,450... the repair I needed (2 months after manufacture warranty was up) $$5,500. My cost... $100
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Do I have much negotiating power as a buyer when I've had to order a new vehicle from a Dealer? It is a new model year and in demand vehicle. The local dealers do not have stock of the vehicle.
Michael Imai you do at time of order, not after
Tom, what does lmai mean? I want to buy a 2021 F-150 XLT. Not many dealerships have them as you may know. Any advice?
My must haves were automatic transmission,sat nav with rear view camera and bluetooth for music. I went to many dealers and managed to get a black Toyota Yaris Hybrid, it was 4 years old but only had 16k miles with all my must haves, plus it was cheap to insure for me as a young newer driver. Was also in my favourite colour black and my second favourite brand next to Honda. My ideal car would be a Honda though, I's love to get a civic or the Insight hybrid as my next car in a couple of years time
Is that how you do it ?
What about extended warranty? How to you negotiate on extended warranty and know what is a good price?
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
If it's a European car I would say that's a must if it's a Japanese car I would say just save your money for when something actually breaks
If the manufacturers offers a 0% for up to 72 months, is this goo? Are there any hidden fees in this?
Tonia Cuebas-Grant
It means they “hid” that interest in your monthly rate already.
supershroom164 wow that’s wrong lol so so so wrong lol
If the manufacturer offers it there is no hidden fees, there are no prepayment penalties. So if you pay it off and 60 months you don’t pay more or anything extra. If a dealership is offering it through one of their other banks you might want to take a look at the fine print
Tom The Car Guy
what I meant is.. there is no such thing as 0% interest.
They’re gonna make their money one way or another.
If they say it’s 0% it means theyre quoting you higher per month at 0% interest.
They could’ve just as easily quoted you lower monthly with 10% interest. But they know that don’t sound as good as 0%.
supershroom164 and again, you’re wrong. I’ve sold 3 manufacturers who have all offered 0%. It is 0% at that point it’s simple math. 45,000 @ 0 for 60mo is 750 a month. 45,000 Divide 60... simple. You can’t put more into a payment
@4:50 he saw the future
We all know dealerships offer the best rates🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I was preapproved but the dealership didn’t honor it
Please be aware ....
Honking car locking...
1 Wakes people up.
( wakes children and babies)
2 Can be heard Inside Homes and buildings in the vicinity.
3 Can startle people walking on streets, in parking lots, and parking garages.
4 Creates dangerous health stress
for people with Cardiac Disease, PTSD, Hypertension, Insomnia, and Migraines. Im a stroke survivor and cardiac patient. It makes my heart go arrythmic.
5 Creates startling and stressful noise in otherwise peaceful locations such as residential neighborhoods, parks, places of worship, schools, and hospital grounds. PLEASE lock your vehicle quietly with light flash Only for neighbors sleep at night and peace of mind during the day.
The Auto Industry needs to create revised technology that does not emit intrusive noise into our communities. Thank you.
Ember2460 Harrington I cannot argue with any of those facts. The car manufacturers are making the sounds a lot lighter but they are a requirement
Agree 125% with Ember2460 Harrington...
I want that floating car behind you
Can you please speak about the interest and the prime part of the loan? Interest is what you are paying for first, before you are really paying down the payment of the vehicle, so when and if we have extra cash we can actually pay on the prime of loan, and not the interest, this does impact the loan's interest, but you are permitted to pay more on your car payment when every you have extra cash, right? Can you please speak on that, no on wants to and the finance lady just laughs and says you dont want to talk about how much interest do you, no you do not, hahahha, so feeble.
Renault kadjar diesel auto 4x2
Great car buying skill builders, the information flowed quite nicely. The road rage joke wasn’t funny, but more importantly, it was inappropriate and surely didn’t fit this important dialogue.
Calm down snowflake
Buy your car from a manufacturer that backs their car. Honda doesn't any more. I found out the hard way.
anchor.fm/specialized-auto-detail-and-restoration
Never sell your car to carmax!!!!
Daniel Wilson why? I sold a car to CarMax after advertising on Craigslist and having every freak in the world lowball me. Got $1,200 more than anything anyone would offer.
I sold my 10 year old Prius to Carmax and received $2,500 more than the dealer would pay or what I was offered on Craigslist. I was thrilled with the offer and had the check in 30 minutes.
Who doesn’t think of their needs when buying a car? Pointless video
Lots of people buy cars just because they're wealthy or want something new. The rest of us working stiffs have to pinch our pennies and try to get the best deal we can, when buying a brand new car. So, the suggestion that one should consider what he needs a new car for is a valid point.
williams gmc
catherine richardson well see
hometowns banking fee
Asking the wolfs, why we should buy some sheeps!!
They are full of shit about car loans through a dealership go to local bank find out wat interest rate local bank is usually lower interest rate
Edmunds is a shill for the car companies
You are correct.
And Kellies Blue Book.
Shill, I learned a new word today! noun
1.
an accomplice of a hawker, gambler, or swindler who acts as an enthusiastic customer to entice or encourage others.
You are NOT advocating that you read the ENTIRE contract??? (stated a 7:15) No biased advice here. That is pure recklessness. Not read to what you're obligating yourself? SHAME ON YOU!!!
This is proof that Edmonds.com exists for the benefit of the dealers, not the consumer.
Shoppers advice by edmunds I am unimpressed by the advice given by the three guys.
Step 1: follow Dave Ramsey's and dont buy new. Buy used with cash.
Dont go into debt for metal on wheels.
Dave Ramsey is a fraud. His advice may be good for people who are financially ignorant, his audience. But for those of us who understand finance, his advice is always flawed and rarely relevant.
For example why not take a zero or very low percent loan if available? Take the loan and leave the cash in an interest bearing account, make some money. Have the monthly payment automatically paid from that account.
@@scottr2706 I mean. You absolutely can do that and I recommend it if you have a history of solid credit.
But shame on you for calling millions of people ignorant when many have gotten debt free because of dave Ramsey's rules.
I understand what you mean but look at it. He is worth millions. I'm sure you arent...
nobody wants a mini van
They don't sell well but some people need them and their maximum capacity. (I don't own one).
good cookie-cutter advice for someone in the market for a sporty honda accord. lol
I'm sick of the standard pablum on vehicles. For example, first: Horsepower. So what..if it's got 780hp..great., what's the estimated fuel mileage? 0 to 60?.., how about 55 to 75 ie passing performance. Second: Heater & other controls. Those freakin touch-screen buttons are often hard to find.., and HARDER to hit on bumpy roads; radio controls are stupid; worst, all controls require driver to take eyes off road; the screen is not angled toward driver. Where in hell are the National Highway Trans Safety folks on the ergonomics of this crap?? That center display is non-standard, and like I said, hard to use on less than smooth roadways, and require often extended time for the driver to search for some feature they have not memorized. UNSAFE. People/Viewers.., do listen to your commentary. Drive one of those pieces of shit on the back roads of this country and be looking at that 14 inch screen when a moose wanders onto the road - good freaking luck!
Dealership are rip off..they get points to get you in the door,test drive sale...you’re the joke
Ken Fergus really? I don’t get points until you drive off
The worthless chive ultrastructually rock because butcher remarkably land through a zany church. open, typical request
They sound like liars trying to get more customers.
tim brechts stimulus
scotts remus and romulus
collins barnabus