Haha... I've done it a few times... also two other secrets. 1. If you look at my face, you have to have that exact expression... 2. These are ported cylinders, and I have a pretty aggressive chamfer at the bottom of the liners. I promise you, it's not always that easy.
@@lanceulbrich6249 Yeah, that would be nice. There are a few lakes that are pretty close to where I am... Lake Chestermere is 20 minutes away, but it is a man made lage that is pay to use, filled with yuppies and algae. There are a few other lakes that are even closer, but we are not allowed to have motorized vehicles in them... then there's a river through the city, also no motorized vehicles... Where I grew up, I was a 10 minute walk away from a boating river and about 10 minutes from a dock / slip. Not so lucky where I am now.
Did a whole bunch of work on the project tonight. It's a whole lot of work, calculations and compromises on what tools to use ... I have basic mill and lathe tools, no DRO on either, no measurement scale on my apron at all and the measurements that are on them can only be used as a rough estimate, haha. If it actually works (long term) I will be thrilled !! In making this one I already see where I could have done things a little differently and made it more durable. If it fails, I will build another one, but it may be perfectly fine.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips Dude you should at least get one of those cheap Chinese DRO kits for your mill! You are crazy man! Amazing what you pull off on that little lathe and drill mill! Very impressed!
@@AtimatikArmy Yeah... it's pretty challenging without a DRO... I was just struggling with a few measurements that would have been really easy with a DRO but took a long time to do manually. Every time I consider getting a DRO kit of some sort, I think "naw, I'll just get a new / better mill" and then I think "I'll just get a small(ish) CNC" and then I think "I'm going to have to learn how to CNC..... I'll just keep what I have" lol.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips What you have is working pretty good for you. I would think just a DRO on at least the x and y axis would really help you out. Especially on something complicated like this. The ability to zero out your axis at any point can really help to simplify things, IMO.
@@AtimatikArmy I agree with what you are saying, and they would be helpful, however, there are some issues with my mill. I make it work, but every project is a struggle. The main issues is that it is a column mill (drill / mill). Instead of having the head on dovetail ways (or something similar) and instead of having the table on a knee that can raise and lower, the head of the mill is on around column. This means that any time you move the head, you lose zero, and a DRO would not fix this problem... The head doesn't simply move up and down, but it can / does swing on a arc around the column. I have seen people try to key the head to the column, but the best results are a few thousandths error, so if you move it 2-3 times, your errors can stack up pretty quickly. The next issue, that .... makes the first issues more of an issue, is that the quill (Z axis) only has about 6 inches of travel. So, if you want to make a 1" deep cut into a part with an end mill, you have to be 5" from the quill to the work max. Then you want to drill a hole, and you can't get your bit into the quill if it is longer than 5" and you can only use bits that you have collets for... by the time I install my drill chuck there is about an inch from the chuck to the work. I'm grateful that I have it. I certainly have done a lot with it and couldn't do what I'm doing without it, but it has a LOT of shortcomings that become really clear when you use it a lot, or for a big project. For example. I mounted the head directly to the table to bore out the holes for the new domes. I have a tapered center finder that is about 2" long. If my head is down far enough to find zero in the plug hole, then there isn't room to install the boring head... If I find x y zero and raise the head, I lose zero. What I ended up doing is finding zero with a half inch end mill at max travel of the quill. Then I had to take my boring head apart and install it in pieces. So it works, it's just time consuming.
nice vid like always. i think you need to make friends with a someone with a couple of cnc machines. it would really make your life much less stressful. but i would think the videos would be boring tho. thats actually the first time i have see anyone cut a negative rad with a handtool. so thanks for the entertainment.
Thanks for the comment !! I just got done working on the head for the evening and my thoughts were " a hell of a lot of work, but totally worth it, even if it doesn't work" I love building things with my hands. Jacob from Jetski Brothers has offered to make me a few different parts on CNC, and someday I will probably say yes, but that can get complicated as well. Either way, I'm happy to be playing with jet skis and making videos🤟
Thanks Chippy ! For me, it's as much about tinkering as it is about jet skis.... I like jet skis because they break a lot, so I get to work on them more than I ride them, haha.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips lol no makes sense buddy. I'm into chainsaws a bit similar concept as you and jetski's. Just on my way back from dryden ontario with the latest purchases
You might really start something when you start doing krash videos. There are a lot of people out there that will get a used kv997 from a frustrated original owner like me and want to see what you can do with it and how good it can be. That lathe tool looks cool but I bet it takes forever to cut.
Lol.... it's a pretty common thing, I hear. I'm thinking that if I want to keep doing this youtube / jetski thing.... and living hours form a body of water that I can test in, I may either have to build a test tank or a dyno... I've always wanted a dyno. Even if it was something simple that I could put a load on the engine, that would help a lot.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Man I need a test tank and I'm on the water! Maybe you can make a sound insulated shed with a tank. You just put on a mask with a vacuum hose to the outside haha. If I had my own place I would 1000% have that even if it was on the water.
I agree, I should have one. I have been using snap gauges, and I have a micrometer set, but the tooling / machines that I have don't cut accurately enough for them to be practical. When I did my boring, I used a snap gauge and digital calipers and checked the bore in two spots at the bottom of and top of the bore... I was convinced it was going to be bad news, but it was less than .001" out at the largest deviation. I think the only time I've used a dial bore gauge was a my first job at a Yamaha and Polaris dealership. That was over 20 years ago !! Wow.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips doesn’t have to be a sunnen gauge, it could be a Amazon deal but it would definitely cut back the tolerance stacking that can result from the way you are currently doing it. It will also show you how out of round the cylinder is and be accurate. Also next time you bore a cylinder do it with the exhaust manifold bolted and torqued to the cylinder.
@@MrJmoney1980 .... Great advice with the exhaust manifold. I have seen where people used head plates, or whatever they are called. Not sure that I have space for either in my current setup. I have looked at the econo dial bore gauges and wondered if I could actually depend on one ... but I guess I depend on cheap snap gauges, dial indicators and calipers. I know it's not the same, but I do check at multiple points for out of round.... The first 1100 cylinder I did a few years ago was out by over .003 in a few spots after boring... way too much tool chatter.
@@MrJmoney1980 I thought I replied to this. Great idea with the exhaust. Not sure if I have room on my lathe set up, haha. I have seen people used head plates, or whatever they are called. Makes sense to do the same thing with the exhaust manifold. I've often seen the bore gauges on amazon or ebay and wondered if they were good enough to depend on. I guess the snap gauges, micrometers and calipers I'm using are all cheap stuff...
I assume you are referring to 7:50 when I am applying the sealant to the base gasket area. I do not recall my exact reason for using this instead of a gasket, but I am using loctite 518 sealant. I may have decided to use it because I didn't have a base gasket at the time, or I may have wanted to change the port timing slightly, or reduce the squish (or both) I have had this engine apart and put it together so many times, I can't remember. 515, 518 or the permatex equivalent works well as a gasket maker for many things and won't harden unless it is between two surfaces, so there's less chance of it blocking an oil passage or causing a problem by getting into a bearing.
How did you clean your triple before powder coating? I did like your review of the ultrasonic cleaner but there's no way you're getting your triple in that container. I just inherited a 1200 triple and it is crusty
Hey. I have a sand blasting cabinet. I have done powdercoating for a lot of years (on and off) and I always have used abrasive blasting of some sort... I don't really think there's any other good way. Yeah, the triple doesn't fit, haha. It's a good idea to have a rough surface for powder coating, so even if you can clean off all of the paint and crud, you're only halfway there. You can purchase blasting guns that are hand held, or you can get the ones where you just stick the hose into a bag of blasting media and do it outdoors... 1200 Triple... They are all crusty, haha. Cheers !
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips thanks again for the info, I think I'm going to go down the sandblasting cabinet route, do you vary your abrasive based on what you're blasting? Or do you find you use a common blasting media for small engine work?
@@mikecataldo4398 Great question. I use glass for almost everything. It is quite aggressive, so you want to be careful around gasket surfaces, bearing surfaces etc ... It leaves a pretty rough surface. If you want a more gentle finish you can use walnut husks, and if you want a bead blasted finish, you can use glass bead. Crushed glass is by far the cheapest at $15, walnut is over twice the price at 40, and 50 for glass beads. My blasting cabinet has a regulator and gauge built in. For aggressive blasting (trying to remove paint or powder coating) I set my pressure 90 - 100 psi. If I am blasting something I want to be more gentle on, I turn the pressure down to 60 or 70 psi and just keep using the crushed glass. My best bit of advice for a blasting cabinet is to use a fine stainless wire mesh over the glass and lights instead of plastic protectors... The plastic last a few minutes and I have had the mesh on my cabinet now for almost two years, and haven't had any issues with the mesh or the glass.
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I can’t believe how easily you put the pistons into the cylinders 🍻
Haha... I've done it a few times... also two other secrets. 1. If you look at my face, you have to have that exact expression... 2. These are ported cylinders, and I have a pretty aggressive chamfer at the bottom of the liners.
I promise you, it's not always that easy.
Nice work! Love the vids!
Thanks for the comment and support, Scott !
Sounds good. You need a lake! I was just 10 miles out in lake mi yesterday!
Haha... yea, I need my own private lake where I can make all the noise I want without bothering anyone.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips I take for granted the fact I could go to about 50 laked within a 30 min drive.
@@lanceulbrich6249 Yeah, that would be nice. There are a few lakes that are pretty close to where I am... Lake Chestermere is 20 minutes away, but it is a man made lage that is pay to use, filled with yuppies and algae.
There are a few other lakes that are even closer, but we are not allowed to have motorized vehicles in them... then there's a river through the city, also no motorized vehicles...
Where I grew up, I was a 10 minute walk away from a boating river and about 10 minutes from a dock / slip. Not so lucky where I am now.
I was just out in Lake Michigan last week as well! Well green bay but it’s basically the same, 10 blocks from the water for me
Good name for your 3rd channel “Arrow towards exhaust”
HAHA... Yeah, and and the logo cal literally be an arrow pointing to an exhaust. That's a good t- shirt.
I got 30$ for that!
Can't wait to see your replaceable dome head video(s)! Very ambitious, my friend!
Did a whole bunch of work on the project tonight. It's a whole lot of work, calculations and compromises on what tools to use ... I have basic mill and lathe tools, no DRO on either, no measurement scale on my apron at all and the measurements that are on them can only be used as a rough estimate, haha.
If it actually works (long term) I will be thrilled !! In making this one I already see where I could have done things a little differently and made it more durable. If it fails, I will build another one, but it may be perfectly fine.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips Dude you should at least get one of those cheap Chinese DRO kits for your mill! You are crazy man! Amazing what you pull off on that little lathe and drill mill! Very impressed!
@@AtimatikArmy Yeah... it's pretty challenging without a DRO... I was just struggling with a few measurements that would have been really easy with a DRO but took a long time to do manually. Every time I consider getting a DRO kit of some sort, I think "naw, I'll just get a new / better mill" and then I think "I'll just get a small(ish) CNC" and then I think "I'm going to have to learn how to CNC..... I'll just keep what I have" lol.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips What you have is working pretty good for you. I would think just a DRO on at least the x and y axis would really help you out. Especially on something complicated like this. The ability to zero out your axis at any point can really help to simplify things, IMO.
@@AtimatikArmy I agree with what you are saying, and they would be helpful, however, there are some issues with my mill. I make it work, but every project is a struggle.
The main issues is that it is a column mill (drill / mill). Instead of having the head on dovetail ways (or something similar) and instead of having the table on a knee that can raise and lower, the head of the mill is on around column. This means that any time you move the head, you lose zero, and a DRO would not fix this problem... The head doesn't simply move up and down, but it can / does swing on a arc around the column.
I have seen people try to key the head to the column, but the best results are a few thousandths error, so if you move it 2-3 times, your errors can stack up pretty quickly.
The next issue, that .... makes the first issues more of an issue, is that the quill (Z axis) only has about 6 inches of travel. So, if you want to make a 1" deep cut into a part with an end mill, you have to be 5" from the quill to the work max. Then you want to drill a hole, and you can't get your bit into the quill if it is longer than 5" and you can only use bits that you have collets for... by the time I install my drill chuck there is about an inch from the chuck to the work.
I'm grateful that I have it. I certainly have done a lot with it and couldn't do what I'm doing without it, but it has a LOT of shortcomings that become really clear when you use it a lot, or for a big project. For example. I mounted the head directly to the table to bore out the holes for the new domes. I have a tapered center finder that is about 2" long. If my head is down far enough to find zero in the plug hole, then there isn't room to install the boring head... If I find x y zero and raise the head, I lose zero.
What I ended up doing is finding zero with a half inch end mill at max travel of the quill. Then I had to take my boring head apart and install it in pieces. So it works, it's just time consuming.
nice vid like always. i think you need to make friends with a someone with a couple of cnc machines. it would really make your life much less stressful. but i would think the videos would be boring tho. thats actually the first time i have see anyone cut a negative rad with a handtool. so thanks for the entertainment.
Thanks for the comment !! I just got done working on the head for the evening and my thoughts were " a hell of a lot of work, but totally worth it, even if it doesn't work" I love building things with my hands.
Jacob from Jetski Brothers has offered to make me a few different parts on CNC, and someday I will probably say yes, but that can get complicated as well. Either way, I'm happy to be playing with jet skis and making videos🤟
Not a jetski person but hope all is well out west buddy 🤘
Thanks Chippy ! For me, it's as much about tinkering as it is about jet skis.... I like jet skis because they break a lot, so I get to work on them more than I ride them, haha.
@JoelArseneaultRUclips lol no makes sense buddy. I'm into chainsaws a bit similar concept as you and jetski's. Just on my way back from dryden ontario with the latest purchases
@@ChippyOutdoors Haha... what did you pick up in Dryden ?
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips 6.5 foot box load of chainsaw chain this time, some personal and some going to hit the market
@@ChippyOutdoors Haha... right on... Wait... Have I read that wrong " 6.5 foot box of CHAIN ... Are you going to open up your own storefront, haha?
You might really start something when you start doing krash videos. There are a lot of people out there that will get a used kv997 from a frustrated original owner like me and want to see what you can do with it and how good it can be. That lathe tool looks cool but I bet it takes forever to cut.
Lol.... it's a pretty common thing, I hear.
I'm thinking that if I want to keep doing this youtube / jetski thing.... and living hours form a body of water that I can test in, I may either have to build a test tank or a dyno... I've always wanted a dyno. Even if it was something simple that I could put a load on the engine, that would help a lot.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Man I need a test tank and I'm on the water! Maybe you can make a sound insulated shed with a tank. You just put on a mask with a vacuum hose to the outside haha. If I had my own place I would 1000% have that even if it was on the water.
@@Jacobskibros Haha... just make sure you fill it with salt water so that your skis don't go into shock....
@@JoelArseneaultRUclipssupport a Dyno! I have considered it myself as well.
@@240sxxxvids 🤟 It would be very helpful... I may need a larger shop to make proper use of it... but yeah.
Joel! Buddy!
You have to buy a dial bore gauge please 🙏🏻
I agree, I should have one. I have been using snap gauges, and I have a micrometer set, but the tooling / machines that I have don't cut accurately enough for them to be practical.
When I did my boring, I used a snap gauge and digital calipers and checked the bore in two spots at the bottom of and top of the bore... I was convinced it was going to be bad news, but it was less than .001" out at the largest deviation.
I think the only time I've used a dial bore gauge was a my first job at a Yamaha and Polaris dealership. That was over 20 years ago !! Wow.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips doesn’t have to be a sunnen gauge, it could be a Amazon deal but it would definitely cut back the tolerance stacking that can result from the way you are currently doing it. It will also show you how out of round the cylinder is and be accurate. Also next time you bore a cylinder do it with the exhaust manifold bolted and torqued to the cylinder.
@@MrJmoney1980 .... Great advice with the exhaust manifold. I have seen where people used head plates, or whatever they are called. Not sure that I have space for either in my current setup.
I have looked at the econo dial bore gauges and wondered if I could actually depend on one ... but I guess I depend on cheap snap gauges, dial indicators and calipers. I know it's not the same, but I do check at multiple points for out of round.... The first 1100 cylinder I did a few years ago was out by over .003 in a few spots after boring... way too much tool chatter.
@@MrJmoney1980 I thought I replied to this. Great idea with the exhaust. Not sure if I have room on my lathe set up, haha. I have seen people used head plates, or whatever they are called. Makes sense to do the same thing with the exhaust manifold.
I've often seen the bore gauges on amazon or ebay and wondered if they were good enough to depend on. I guess the snap gauges, micrometers and calipers I'm using are all cheap stuff...
what kind of glue are you putting down, where & why?
I assume you are referring to 7:50 when I am applying the sealant to the base gasket area.
I do not recall my exact reason for using this instead of a gasket, but I am using loctite 518 sealant. I may have decided to use it because I didn't have a base gasket at the time, or I may have wanted to change the port timing slightly, or reduce the squish (or both)
I have had this engine apart and put it together so many times, I can't remember. 515, 518 or the permatex equivalent works well as a gasket maker for many things and won't harden unless it is between two surfaces, so there's less chance of it blocking an oil passage or causing a problem by getting into a bearing.
How did you clean your triple before powder coating? I did like your review of the ultrasonic cleaner but there's no way you're getting your triple in that container. I just inherited a 1200 triple and it is crusty
Hey. I have a sand blasting cabinet. I have done powdercoating for a lot of years (on and off) and I always have used abrasive blasting of some sort... I don't really think there's any other good way.
Yeah, the triple doesn't fit, haha. It's a good idea to have a rough surface for powder coating, so even if you can clean off all of the paint and crud, you're only halfway there. You can purchase blasting guns that are hand held, or you can get the ones where you just stick the hose into a bag of blasting media and do it outdoors...
1200 Triple... They are all crusty, haha. Cheers !
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips thanks again for the info, I think I'm going to go down the sandblasting cabinet route, do you vary your abrasive based on what you're blasting? Or do you find you use a common blasting media for small engine work?
@@mikecataldo4398 Great question. I use glass for almost everything. It is quite aggressive, so you want to be careful around gasket surfaces, bearing surfaces etc ... It leaves a pretty rough surface.
If you want a more gentle finish you can use walnut husks, and if you want a bead blasted finish, you can use glass bead. Crushed glass is by far the cheapest at $15, walnut is over twice the price at 40, and 50 for glass beads.
My blasting cabinet has a regulator and gauge built in. For aggressive blasting (trying to remove paint or powder coating) I set my pressure 90 - 100 psi. If I am blasting something I want to be more gentle on, I turn the pressure down to 60 or 70 psi and just keep using the crushed glass.
My best bit of advice for a blasting cabinet is to use a fine stainless wire mesh over the glass and lights instead of plastic protectors... The plastic last a few minutes and I have had the mesh on my cabinet now for almost two years, and haven't had any issues with the mesh or the glass.