5:43 use the Boxed end of the wrench or a socket. Thank me before you scratch something. ;) Ask me how I learned this lesson. PS I rec using a deep well socket, and only hand tighten the top nut.
I have a felted luthiers spanner wrench I typically use. I just tend to misplace things... alot. The polished chrome snap-on is so smooth I don't worry too much. It is also an opened ratchet design so I could be more confident about spinning it under low torque, but I tend to lift it anyway. I give a 1/4 turn after hand tight just because I have had the collars loosen and rattle in the past.
@@murpsman I like the mounting plates with hipshots, their prices have been going up though, and so have Gotoh. These barrel shaped pegs though got my attention. I like the modern look.
@@BaritoneGoatStudio not only gone up, its no longer American made either. Most people don't seem to know that. I own both Guyker lockers and Hipshot...And so far, the Guykers are just as good. I like the look and finish of t he Hipshots a lot, but the guykers also look really good. Both tuners feel good and are smooth. Now that guyker has the round pegs, ill just get those. Once you go round, you wont go back
Very much worth it. the lower end LTD models are pretty much the best at their price point these days. I have had a couple come through and all have been very well done.
I know the tuners are categorized specifically for each headstock type, but do you think these would work on an inline 6 headstock? Such as a jazzmaster or telecaster?
@@Callsign_Kishin they do make these for 6 in line headstocks. The main question is what configuration you have in terms of screws and post holes. These won’t fit vintage style 8mm hole tuners. The type with unthreaded collars. They do also make these in a 2-pin fender style design. But they are modern 10mm post a with threaded collars. www.guyker.com/products/guyker-gk-new-434sp-tuning-machines-for-fender-st-guitar?ref=BTGSTUDIO
You can take and rip the seams of a sandwich baggy ....making it 1 flat plane....and drape it over the hardware. Screw,bolts,potentiometer, jacks etcetera...then use your box wrench,screwdriver,socket,etc to loosen or tighten....and voila , no more scratched hardware or finishes....
@@crock2434 on most applications I like to use a small spanner wrench with a felt bottom. Mainly for pots and switches. My main 10mm wrench is a high polish chrome snap-on, safe for metal contact. But I agree, If you have to use any sort of metal tool, especially rough galvanized, find something to buffer the tool. The best thing for making sure you don’t damage hardware is to never overtighten things! Most things on a guitar should require minimal torque to loosen.
@@Shred_Rocket sounded worse that it was. Compressor on the mic made every tap and clink sound way louder or rougher than it was. I was being fairly light handed actually since nothing was overly tightened. You can also use a spanner wrench if you have one, they typically are made out of aluminum or much lighter steel. My snap-on wrench is a bit solid! *No wood or finish was harmed in the making of this content*
A big thank you for sharng such detailed tuorial installation! We are sure it will help a lot for the diy uers! We hope you enjoy the product ❤
5:43 use the Boxed end of the wrench or a socket. Thank me before you scratch something. ;)
Ask me how I learned this lesson.
PS I rec using a deep well socket, and only hand tighten the top nut.
I have a felted luthiers spanner wrench I typically use. I just tend to misplace things... alot. The polished chrome snap-on is so smooth I don't worry too much. It is also an opened ratchet design so I could be more confident about spinning it under low torque, but I tend to lift it anyway. I give a 1/4 turn after hand tight just because I have had the collars loosen and rattle in the past.
I use Hipshot locking tuners with the upgrade kit since there are no issues with screws. However these tuners are interesting looking and only $69.99,
@@murpsman I like the mounting plates with hipshots, their prices have been going up though, and so have Gotoh. These barrel shaped pegs though got my attention. I like the modern look.
@@BaritoneGoatStudio not only gone up, its no longer American made either. Most people don't seem to know that. I own both Guyker lockers and Hipshot...And so far, the Guykers are just as good. I like the look and finish of t he Hipshots a lot, but the guykers also look really good. Both tuners feel good and are smooth.
Now that guyker has the round pegs, ill just get those. Once you go round, you wont go back
I’ve seen these on some of the KM signatures from Schecter. They look cool
PS that guitar is SICK dude. I got the same axe but the Epiphone. I didnt know LTD did one. I need one
Very much worth it. the lower end LTD models are pretty much the best at their price point these days. I have had a couple come through and all have been very well done.
@baritonegoatstudio man these would be badass on your baritone Firefly LP & SG guitars too.
I know the tuners are categorized specifically for each headstock type, but do you think these would work on an inline 6 headstock? Such as a jazzmaster or telecaster?
@@Callsign_Kishin they do make these for 6 in line headstocks. The main question is what configuration you have in terms of screws and post holes. These won’t fit vintage style 8mm hole tuners. The type with unthreaded collars.
They do also make these in a 2-pin fender style design. But they are modern 10mm post a with threaded collars.
www.guyker.com/products/guyker-gk-new-434sp-tuning-machines-for-fender-st-guitar?ref=BTGSTUDIO
I didn't knew this kind of locking tuners. Really interesting. They're looking cool. Thank you for this information.
You can take and rip the seams of a sandwich baggy ....making it 1 flat plane....and drape it over the hardware. Screw,bolts,potentiometer, jacks etcetera...then use your box wrench,screwdriver,socket,etc to loosen or tighten....and voila , no more scratched hardware or finishes....
@@crock2434 on most applications I like to use a small spanner wrench with a felt bottom. Mainly for pots and switches. My main 10mm wrench is a high polish chrome snap-on, safe for metal contact. But I agree, If you have to use any sort of metal tool, especially rough galvanized, find something to buffer the tool. The best thing for making sure you don’t damage hardware is to never overtighten things! Most things on a guitar should require minimal torque to loosen.
Dude, a little rough handling your guitar, I found myself cringing as you worked the wrench.
@@Shred_Rocket sounded worse that it was. Compressor on the mic made every tap and clink sound way louder or rougher than it was. I was being fairly light handed actually since nothing was overly tightened. You can also use a spanner wrench if you have one, they typically are made out of aluminum or much lighter steel. My snap-on wrench is a bit solid! *No wood or finish was harmed in the making of this content*