Hi Andy if your going to take the head off be careful, I found that not all the nuts and bolts would co-operate on my 82 GS1100. I bought a second GS1100 as a parts bike and one of the previous owners destroyed the head trying to take it apart. I didn't test the compression in my GS (crazy, I know), instead I took the block and head to a local trustworthy machine shop to have it inspected. It's awesome watching you trouble shoot the issues and I really hope you get the go-ahead to continue. Keep up the good work 👍
I used to have GS1000 bored and compression bumped a little. I went through three motors, before I started push starting everywhere I went....those starters suck. Built up the wrist and calf muscles though!
Great video Andy. Very interesting for us guys sat on our arses watching, not so good for the poor bugger on the spanners! Lets hope he lets you keep going. Good Luck!!
You are the only guy on RUclips that pays attention when I am yelling at the screen, For instance, I yelled "Use some penetrating oil on the spark plug" and by Jove, you turned around and grabbed a can of what looked like PB Blaster and gave that stuck spark pug a good shot. None of the other RUclipsrs pay the slighted attention to me. That said, it looks like you may have opened a can of worms with that GS. If I were you I would suggest to the owner, he should find another GS for parts. He can probably find one, in country for less than $1,000.00 AUS) That has worked for me several times on restoration projects. That is probably less than than a reconditioned head would cost. Go for it mate, I am looking forward to your finishing up that Lil Darling.
LOL, that was you shouting at me? Thanks mate :) He is a retired gent and not in a position to buy a parts bike, this will be a budget build. I hear what you're say though, I still have enough XS11 parts shoved up under the house to assemble another bike.
...full teardown and rebuild is the only way with any engine that has sat that long....mind you it never hurts to know what you might find once inside :)
I love the disclaimer at the start. Do you think there is the slightest risk someoneone will ever take action claiming ‘well this bloke on RUclips told me to’ LOL. Good vid I love all the exploratory digging around. Looking forward to the next upload of this if it’s taken apart.
Hmm I'd be tempted to soak the pistons in some atf while you set the valves and timing then change the oil and run that engine.....bet the compression comes up ...
Yes I am of the same thinking too. It is possible but I have generally found that a hone and new rings is a minimum with an engine that has sat as long as this. Thanks for watching and taking an interest mate, I appreciate the input, Andy.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions you surely want to see you're Kids Kids so like i did drop de smokes ya have a lot of shit to pass on O jesus I sound MAD 👍😆
Great info and insight as to where to start trouble shooting a old non runner...Love to see ya bring it back to life, this may be a little perverse but the worse it is for you and the owner the more we get to see and learn...hopefully his funds allow you to continue, if not maybe subscribers/viewers could donate a few bucks to help out... Keep up the good work and hope ya get her chooching
I can't see from the video where the cams are, whether they're in the position the manual calls for when checking clearance. Tight as they are you may still be losing compression to tight valves. How did the clearance compare to the other cylinders the way you were checking?
G'day Dale, The clearances were measured under cam base circle at top dead centre, as per standard procedure, and I was only wanting to confirm that I had some kind of clearance at this early stage. Yes it is still possible that the low compression could be caused by the valves however in my experience you will very quickly hear this during the leak-down test. I am tending to lean towards sticky rings or a combination of both. I have only checked cylinder 3 valve clearances, I will check the others when I am ready to do that task. At this stage I am just working through and doing a laundry list. I already know I will need to adjust the valve clearances but that is pointless if I eventually need to tear the head off. Stick with us Dale, we'll get through this mate...eventually. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting, please continue to do so, Andy
I've never had opportunity to use a leak-down tester. It makes sense that you'd hear it. I can't really comment on standard procedure either, since the 8 valve GS engines are the only thing I've ever adjusted valves on. However, people occasionally come to the forums at gsresources.com (you'd be more than welcome, if you're not already there), and they have trouble with valve clearances because they set the clearance according to what they were accustomed to, rather than where the Suzuki manual specifies. That's with the IN and EX lobes pointed away from each other, forming a line parallel to the deck. I can't see in your video if that's what you're doing. I just want to make sure, since this is your first GS, that you're aware that experienced and knowledgeable mechanics sometimes miss this quirk of GS procedures. (Another one is where to set the float heights. I don't know if other bikes with the Mikuni BS carbs use the same procedure, but experienced mechanics often measure from the wrong point on the float.) The reason I'm concerned about this is that having almost no clearance on the base circle could mean the valve is tight and held open at the place on the lobe where Suzuki specifies there should still be clearance. If that is the case, then the intake will be open too long at the beginning of compression, resulting in lower effective compression ratio. Leak testing at TDC might still find the chamber sealed, which is encouraging, because the tight valve hasn't burned yet. I still have hope the head doesn't have to come off. If you do have to take the head off, please be aware that the gsresources forums have only found the OEM gasket kit to be reliable. We've seen failures of Cometic and Athena kits. In particular, the oval-shaped O-rings at the base gasket that seal the oil passage must be OEM. Other manufacturers' O-rings deform and leak massive amounts of oil within a few hours of operation. We've seen it too many times. I hope you get to keep going with this project. A GS1000G is my favorite ride, so I'd love to see this poor abused beast brought back.
I wonder if the rings are stuck after sitting for so long. I would soak each cylinder with some diesel fuel for a day or two and roll it over. Also it sounds like your battery is dead not the starter motor. My 2 cents.
Way ahead of you mate, have had it soaking for a few days now. Sorry but the starter is FUBAR, you'll see in the next episode. Thanks for watching, Andy
Did I miss it, or did you not have your oil filler cap open for the leakdown test to see if you could hear that 30% leakage through the crankcase, indicating rings as the issue.
No you’re correct, but with the rocker cover off you can usually hear it up through the timing chain tunnel quite clearly. I was expecting more to be honest.
My first comment Andy so without prejudice and egg sucking!!! I would have set those valve clearances first and try and run that motor up to get a heat cycle through it to see if the compression comes up on that cylinder. Did you try the leak off tester on the other cylinders, to verify the tools accuracy. I've used and own the cheaper leak off testers there not great. (To saying yours is a cheap one) liking your repair vids regards Adam
G’day Adam, I hope this won’t be your last comment. I’m with you on this, I am not going to re-shim just yet however. My goal is to get a snapshot of what we may be up against so that Bill can make informed decisions. I fully intend to try and get it running and recheck the compression, but we must keep the suspense going mate. As for the leak-down tester it is a cheaper one but it has always worked okay for me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Andy
Hi Michael, thanks for watching mate. A couple of points, 1. There is no “you guys” here, it’s just me. 2. As far as memory serves me I think I have only critiqued one channel and 3. If you have spotted an error please point it out and I will address it. Failure to do this is my greatest criticism of said channel. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions you corrected yourself with the edit on your video.I think tour channel is the best for me as I repair my fj1200 I tour a lot of your advise
Okay cool, that’s gunna happen a lot. I often muddle my words and sometimes use the wrong terminology, sometimes my mouth can’t keep up with my brain, or the other way around.
Many moons ago I used to own a Suzuki 650 katana watching you work on the GS has bought back many a fond memory. Great stuff.
Good video Andy, just shows the problems you can get with old bikes.
All the best Bob
very cool of you to do these vids. I have a 79 GS that I am just starting to do some troubleshooting on-- this is great primer
Hi Andy if your going to take the head off be careful, I found that not all the nuts and bolts would co-operate on my 82 GS1100. I bought a second GS1100 as a parts bike and one of the previous owners destroyed the head trying to take it apart. I didn't test the compression in my GS (crazy, I know), instead I took the block and head to a local trustworthy machine shop to have it inspected. It's awesome watching you trouble shoot the issues and I really hope you get the go-ahead to continue. Keep up the good work 👍
I used to have GS1000 bored and compression bumped a little. I went through three motors, before I started push starting everywhere I went....those starters suck. Built up the wrist and calf muscles though!
Came to this channel on the back of the Del one. Liked what i saw and subbed. Great to see the way you work and looking forward to watching more.
I'm enjoying the diagnosis process very much.....I hope the owner wants you to keep going
Another good video andy,looking forward to following the process. Keep up the good work.
Great video Andy. Very interesting for us guys sat on our arses watching, not so good for the poor bugger on the spanners! Lets hope he lets you keep going. Good Luck!!
My GS1000 service manual says tappet clearance should be 0.001-0.003 inch on all valves. Hope to see more. Thanks
You are the only guy on RUclips that pays attention when I am yelling at the screen, For instance, I yelled "Use some penetrating oil on the spark plug" and by Jove, you turned around and grabbed a can of what looked like PB Blaster and gave that stuck spark pug a good shot. None of the other RUclipsrs pay the slighted attention to me. That said, it looks like you may have opened a can of worms with that GS.
If I were you I would suggest to the owner, he should find another GS for parts. He can probably find one, in country for less than $1,000.00 AUS) That has worked for me several times on restoration projects. That is probably less than than a reconditioned head would cost. Go for it mate, I am looking forward to your finishing up that Lil Darling.
LOL, that was you shouting at me? Thanks mate :) He is a retired gent and not in a position to buy a parts bike, this will be a budget build. I hear what you're say though, I still have enough XS11 parts shoved up under the house to assemble another bike.
I'm a bit of a bull in a China shop so a good example for me,of step by step fault finding.Cheers mate.
The way that tested out on 3 after you put the oil down the plug hole, suggests broken piston ring...
Maybe, not sure yet.
Cheers, Andy...
...full teardown and rebuild is the only way with any engine that has sat that long....mind you it never hurts to know what you might find once inside :)
I love the disclaimer at the start. Do you think there is the slightest risk someoneone will ever take action claiming ‘well this bloke on RUclips told me to’ LOL. Good vid I love all the exploratory digging around. Looking forward to the next upload of this if it’s taken apart.
I know someone who wants to hope that no one ever does. Thanks mate, it should be fun.
Hahaha. Wonder who that might be 🤔😄😂
Hmm I'd be tempted to soak the pistons in some atf while you set the valves and timing then change the oil and run that engine.....bet the compression comes up ...
Yes I am of the same thinking too. It is possible but I have generally found that a hone and new rings is a minimum with an engine that has sat as long as this. Thanks for watching and taking an interest mate, I appreciate the input, Andy.
Great to see a pro at work Andy look back yer self drop de smokers hit de jim 😄
👍😆
Brahahahaha...the gym lol. I survive on caffeine nicotine and inappropriate thoughts...and Jameson’s 😂
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions you surely want to see you're Kids Kids so like i did drop de smokes ya have a lot of shit to pass on O jesus I sound MAD 👍😆
Great info and insight as to where to start trouble shooting a old non runner...Love to see ya bring it back to life, this may be a little perverse but the worse it is for you and the owner the more we get to see and learn...hopefully his funds allow you to continue, if not maybe subscribers/viewers could donate a few bucks to help out... Keep up the good work and hope ya get her chooching
Good informative video!
Great vid dude
I can't see from the video where the cams are, whether they're in the position the manual calls for when checking clearance. Tight as they are you may still be losing compression to tight valves. How did the clearance compare to the other cylinders the way you were checking?
G'day Dale,
The clearances were measured under cam base circle at top dead centre, as per standard procedure, and I was only wanting to confirm that I had some kind of clearance at this early stage. Yes it is still possible that the low compression could be caused by the valves however in my experience you will very quickly hear this during the leak-down test. I am tending to lean towards sticky rings or a combination of both. I have only checked cylinder 3 valve clearances, I will check the others when I am ready to do that task. At this stage I am just working through and doing a laundry list. I already know I will need to adjust the valve clearances but that is pointless if I eventually need to tear the head off. Stick with us Dale, we'll get through this mate...eventually. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting, please continue to do so, Andy
I've never had opportunity to use a leak-down tester. It makes sense that you'd hear it. I can't really comment on standard procedure either, since the 8 valve GS engines are the only thing I've ever adjusted valves on. However, people occasionally come to the forums at gsresources.com (you'd be more than welcome, if you're not already there), and they have trouble with valve clearances because they set the clearance according to what they were accustomed to, rather than where the Suzuki manual specifies. That's with the IN and EX lobes pointed away from each other, forming a line parallel to the deck. I can't see in your video if that's what you're doing. I just want to make sure, since this is your first GS, that you're aware that experienced and knowledgeable mechanics sometimes miss this quirk of GS procedures.
(Another one is where to set the float heights. I don't know if other bikes with the Mikuni BS carbs use the same procedure, but experienced mechanics often measure from the wrong point on the float.)
The reason I'm concerned about this is that having almost no clearance on the base circle could mean the valve is tight and held open at the place on the lobe where Suzuki specifies there should still be clearance. If that is the case, then the intake will be open too long at the beginning of compression, resulting in lower effective compression ratio. Leak testing at TDC might still find the chamber sealed, which is encouraging, because the tight valve hasn't burned yet. I still have hope the head doesn't have to come off.
If you do have to take the head off, please be aware that the gsresources forums have only found the OEM gasket kit to be reliable. We've seen failures of Cometic and Athena kits. In particular, the oval-shaped O-rings at the base gasket that seal the oil passage must be OEM. Other manufacturers' O-rings deform and leak massive amounts of oil within a few hours of operation. We've seen it too many times.
I hope you get to keep going with this project. A GS1000G is my favorite ride, so I'd love to see this poor abused beast brought back.
I wonder if the rings are stuck after sitting for so long. I would soak each cylinder with some diesel fuel for a day or two and roll it over. Also it sounds like your battery is dead not the starter motor. My 2 cents.
Way ahead of you mate, have had it soaking for a few days now. Sorry but the starter is FUBAR, you'll see in the next episode. Thanks for watching, Andy
Is there an issue with the thread for the spark plug on #3 and that would also affect the compression test?
Possibly
We shall name it "Basket Case II"
Did I miss it, or did you not have your oil filler cap open for the leakdown test to see if you could hear that 30% leakage through the crankcase, indicating rings as the issue.
No you’re correct, but with the rocker cover off you can usually hear it up through the timing chain tunnel quite clearly. I was expecting more to be honest.
Oh yeah, Right. I missed that. Good luck with it :-)
My first comment Andy so without prejudice and egg sucking!!!
I would have set those valve clearances first and try and run that motor up to get a heat cycle through it to see if the compression comes up on that cylinder. Did you try the leak off tester on the other cylinders, to verify the tools accuracy. I've used and own the cheaper leak off testers there not great. (To saying yours is a cheap one) liking your repair vids
regards Adam
G’day Adam, I hope this won’t be your last comment. I’m with you on this, I am not going to re-shim just yet however. My goal is to get a snapshot of what we may be up against so that Bill can make informed decisions. I fully intend to try and get it running and recheck the compression, but we must keep the suspense going mate. As for the leak-down tester it is a cheaper one but it has always worked okay for me. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Andy
Well explained vid 👍🏻
I see you go to ace cafe London. R you based in London and do you repair your own bikes or are you a repair shop
Based in Tasmania Australia, I'm a hobbyist not a repair shop. ACE Cafe is on the bucket list. Thanks for watching, Andy
2.11 - What the hell do you want! haha
lol 😂
I really like what you put on tour channel.but if you guys arw gonna critique other you tubers better make sure your putting out. Correct info also.js
Hi Michael, thanks for watching mate. A couple of points, 1. There is no “you guys” here, it’s just me. 2. As far as memory serves me I think I have only critiqued one channel and 3. If you have spotted an error please point it out and I will address it. Failure to do this is my greatest criticism of said channel. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions you corrected yourself with the edit on your video.I think tour channel is the best for me as I repair my fj1200 I tour a lot of your advise
Okay cool, that’s gunna happen a lot. I often muddle my words and sometimes use the wrong terminology, sometimes my mouth can’t keep up with my brain, or the other way around.