What an amazing tutorial!! I have spent all afternoon looking for a straight forward explanation on how to glaze properly and this is the best and most professional results I've found! Thanks!
A lot of people do not understand how much work goes into painting cabinets much less antiquing cabinets, especially going from stain to paint and then glazing. It is a massive undertaking to pull apart old cabinets, prep, and paint, and that's before the antiquing and topcoat. If the cabinets are not prepped properly for going from the old stain with a clear coat to painted the paint will not bond properly and then you have a huge problem on your hands. Label all the doors and drawers removed with a number system in an inconspicuous area where it can be easily touched up with a brush...on the inside or on the ridge somewhere. Make sure to not loose the hardware and keep it in one place. Once you have it all primed and then painted (a lot of sanding in between those two and don't forget to caulk all seams and spackle any small nail holes...not the screw holes for sure) put them back together. And then start the glazing project. Depending on the size/amount of kitchen cabinets you can be looking at anywhere from about $4000 all the way up to above $10000 on "standard" sized home kitchen cabinet sets, but even more than that in bigger homes with 3500 sf plus which have huge kitchens if a professional is hired to do it which can be hard to find :/ My recommendation would be hire a pro to paint the cabinets and learn how to do the glazing yourself so you can tweek it to your liking.
Thank you for this tutorial! I hadn’t glazed yet and watched a few videos but yours was great. I went out to the garage and tried it right away and loved it! 😊
I think I’ve watched at least a dozen videos showing how to glaze cabinets and not a single one came close to getting the results I was wanting until YOURS! Your crisscross both directions, then side to side & up and down using a different brush for each part was brilliant! Finally got the results I wanted! THANK YOU!!!
Thank you for sharing! I have been trying to figure out what to do with my bathroom cabinets. I refinished them with a warm dark brown but wanted to add some copper accents and I haven't been able to find a technique that would work well. I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience with us!!
Awesome video man , great job . I been looking at some videos and this one is pretty much straight forward and the best technique that would work for me. Thank you
I wonder how this is going to turn out with my doors since my doors have the grain exposed. I'm going to find out soon enough. Love this video. Thanks!!
So sorry. I have no idea.. :-( it was just a random sample door we had left over from a job. I just grabbed the first one I found to demonstrate the technique . Kind of looks like a light beige tone. Maybe a cloud white (Ben Moore) or a velvet white, even? Sorry to not be more helpful about that. The color gets darker after the glaze , so you would want the base color to be lighter than the desired finished color.
I use Sherwin-Williams oil based glaze. I have access to the clear base and all of the pigments, so that I can make most any color, but I think that a SW store can make you any color that you like. However, in some markets, SW does not offer oil based products because of EPA regulations. Mohawk is another manufacturer that offers good products. I think that you can find a local dealer on their website "dealer locator". Here is a link to a good product from Mohawk. www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse_tech.asp?ictnbr=176 If it is too thick, you can reduce it down with a little (key word little) mineral spirits. The water based glazes just do not have enough open time to do a brush out glaze, plus, the brush out technique makes it dry even faster.
Thanks so much for the info Alan! I've always used water based clear glaze and tinted it myself with leftover paints to do specialty furniture pieces. But, you are right, the drying time is very short. Your process left a smokier and more natural looking aging. I've had to content with drag brush or rag marks and you just can't come back over it because it totally changes the original coat. Going to have to hunt to find it in my area though. Am contacting them through their Facebook page to see if there is a retailer near me, since none are listed or if it's available online anywhere. Had a bed I was rehabbing recently and wish I had seen this before I finished it. It's done in oil stain and urethane. When I've used all the waterbased products and polycrylic top coat I HAVE gone back on top of the poly and done a second or first glaze to get a different look ... and then, of course, come back with more polycrylic. It's another alternative, but definitely not the handrubbed real aged look you get! And just realized you had a Mohawk link but also mentioned a Sherwin Williams product. Do you use both depending on where you can get the oil based product? Thank you!!!!
So sorry. I have no idea.. :-( it was just a random sample door we had left over from a job. I just grabbed the first one I found to demonstrate the technique . Kind of looks like a light beige tone. Maybe a cloud white (Ben Moore) or a velvet white, even? Sorry to not be more helpful about that. The color gets darker after the glaze , so you would want the base color to be lighter than the desired finished color.
Please- can you tell me where to find chip brushes like the ones in this video? I have some cheap ones but all they do is shed! Messing up my project! Help!
I got the bigger brushes at home Depot. They are 4-in brushes, natural bristle not polyester. I think they were $9 or $10 each. As long as you clean them well, and have one of the brush spinners to clean out the excess solvent, they last forever. Maybe not forever but, they will last for many years, so it's worth the 30 dollars or so investment. Hope that helps.
Brush #1 has the most glaze on it since it was used first to remove the glaze while #3 was used last, thus it has the least amount of glaze. When he selects a brush to add excess he then of course uses #1 but uses #3 to remove the additional glaze which was added to provide more character to the piece.
Exactly like biskygiver stated. First brush is wetter, because it gets used first on the wet glaze. Second brush is medium amount wet/dry and third brush is the dryest, because it's used last. Use the dryest brush to "soften" the look. When the third brush gets too wet, wash them all out, spin them dry with a spinner and start all over again.
The finishes on these samples was actually factory applied conversion varnish. It's a much harder finish than latex paint. But as long as you scuff sand it and clean it well, you can use an oil base glaze over that and refinish it. As for latex paint, yes you can use an oil-based glaze over it. As long as you clean it well and scuff sand it. I would recommend allowing it to dry overnight. You can finish it with an oil modified acrylic clear coat. ZAR makes a really good oil modified acrylic clear top coat. You could also use spray can laquer for a topcoat if you want to avoid brushing. DEFT makes a good one, but I think RUSTOLEAM is pretty good too. The only problem with using an oil based glaze over latex paint comes from what may be underneath the latex paint.: If someone previously painted latex over a factory conversion varnish, most likely the latex paint will eventually fail and chip or peel off, depending on how the surface was prepped prior to applying the latex. You are at the mercy of whoever painted the latex on in the first place. If you are planning to paint the latex yourself, I would recommend an oil modified acrylic paint. It gets harder than traditional latex paint. Sherwin Williams makes a good one, but Ben Moore should have one too. But prep is the key to make latex stick to conversion varnish. Clean it first with something like TSP or even NAPTHA. Then sand it like crazy to provide enough of a rough surface for a primer to bite into. Primer is another whole subject, but a good Sherwin Williams tech could help you with that one. Good luck, it's a lot of work. 🙂
@@alanburton6190 Thank you. You know, I did a strange project using both latex paint and oil based stain. I forgot about that. Doors originally painted white. I painted doors with flat tan paint, then I came back with oil based stain and brush stroked it until i had a wood finish look. After that dried overnight I top coated it with the Rustoleum MATTE finish. They look great. So i guess they both can be used together under certain circumstances.
the best result of glazing that I hav seen!
What an amazing tutorial!! I have spent all afternoon looking for a straight forward explanation on how to glaze properly and this is the best and most professional results I've found! Thanks!
I’ve watched hours of videos to learn the best techniques out there. Yours is by far the most educational. Thank you so much!
Exactly what I was looking for. Great technique. Thank goodness, no irritating music.
A lot of people do not understand how much work goes into painting cabinets much less antiquing cabinets, especially going from stain to paint and then glazing. It is a massive undertaking to pull apart old cabinets, prep, and paint, and that's before the antiquing and topcoat. If the cabinets are not prepped properly for going from the old stain with a clear coat to painted the paint will not bond properly and then you have a huge problem on your hands. Label all the doors and drawers removed with a number system in an inconspicuous area where it can be easily touched up with a brush...on the inside or on the ridge somewhere. Make sure to not loose the hardware and keep it in one place. Once you have it all primed and then painted (a lot of sanding in between those two and don't forget to caulk all seams and spackle any small nail holes...not the screw holes for sure) put them back together. And then start the glazing project. Depending on the size/amount of kitchen cabinets you can be looking at anywhere from about $4000 all the way up to above $10000 on "standard" sized home kitchen cabinet sets, but even more than that in bigger homes with 3500 sf plus which have huge kitchens if a professional is hired to do it which can be hard to find :/
My recommendation would be hire a pro to paint the cabinets and learn how to do the glazing yourself so you can tweek it to your liking.
Just want to say that you are the real deal. There are a lot of fake painting videos out there. Yours gets my ultimate respect.
Thank you for this tutorial! I hadn’t glazed yet and watched a few videos but yours was great. I went out to the garage and tried it right away and loved it! 😊
Thank you! Just in the nick of time! I have to glaze a red kitchen tomorrow. I really like your technique much better than other videos I've seen.
I think I’ve watched at least a dozen videos showing how to glaze cabinets and not a single one came close to getting the results I was wanting until YOURS! Your crisscross both directions, then side to side & up and down using a different brush for each part was brilliant! Finally got the results I wanted! THANK YOU!!!
You're very welcome! Glad it helped!
You are very welcome! Glad it helped!
Love the brush out technique! Beautiful! Love how it is blended. Thanks for posting the video. Gonna do that to the kitchen cabinets :)
Thank you for sharing! I have been trying to figure out what to do with my bathroom cabinets. I refinished them with a warm dark brown but wanted to add some copper accents and I haven't been able to find a technique that would work well.
I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience with us!!
Awesome technique. Excelent tutorial! Thank you so much Alan!
Very nice, I just finished 1 door and look fantastic,thank you for your technique.
Awesome video man , great job . I been looking at some videos and this one is pretty much straight forward and the best technique that would work for me. Thank you
Love this technique, the results are so soft and old world looking. Realying a nice result in lieu of using a rag. I HAVE to get a brush spinner!
Thank you so much. Very informative and knowledgeable! Yet simple and straight forward!
That brush cleaner - my next painting purchase! Great video.
Very nice video.. You make it so easy ... Thank you.
May God continue blessing you always.
I never knew you could use the spinner for brushes.... I'd only ever used it for roller covers. Mind. Blown.
Thank you Alan. This is the best glazing video I have seen. Now, I am on the hunt for oil based glaze. Benjamin Moore is a possibility.
Thanks for the tutorial. One of the best and well demonstrated.
Thank you! Hope it helps.
Thank you for the excellent video!
Great info! I even appreciated the clean-up tips.
Love Love your technique, it was just what I was looking for, a nice clean neat finish glaze.
Wow! Nice result and technique.
Great video, Thank you!
I wonder how this is going to turn out with my doors since my doors have the grain exposed. I'm going to find out soon enough. Love this video. Thanks!!
Wow a good guy that knows the difference between rails and styles
wow. nice allan. I like ur method
greetings from Indonesia :-)
Best tutorial! Sharing this video :)
Wow!!!! BEAUTIFUL
That paint spinner is the BOMB
You are good!
Awesome
Hi, what paint color did you use for the second door? Thanks!
What kind of brushes are you using?
Do you glaze the back of the door or just the front?
What kinda glaze did you use and what color?
So sorry. I have no idea.. :-( it was just a random sample door we had left over from a job. I just grabbed the first one I found to demonstrate the technique . Kind of looks like a light beige tone. Maybe a cloud white (Ben Moore) or a velvet white, even? Sorry to not be more helpful about that. The color gets darker after the glaze , so you would want the base color to be lighter than the desired finished color.
Where did you get your glaze? What brand is it?
Alan, wondered if there was a specific brand of oil based glaze you used? I have only seen water-based and it's not workable for so long.
I use Sherwin-Williams oil based glaze. I have access to the clear base and all of the pigments, so that I can make most any color, but I think that a SW store can make you any color that you like. However, in some markets, SW does not offer oil based products because of EPA regulations. Mohawk is another manufacturer that offers good products. I think that you can find a local dealer on their website "dealer locator". Here is a link to a good product from Mohawk. www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse_tech.asp?ictnbr=176 If it is too thick, you can reduce it down with a little (key word little) mineral spirits. The water based glazes just do not have enough open time to do a brush out glaze, plus, the brush out technique makes it dry even faster.
That link did not work. Sorry. Maybe this one? www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=176
Thanks so much for the info Alan! I've always used water based clear glaze and tinted it myself with leftover paints to do specialty furniture pieces. But, you are right, the drying time is very short. Your process left a smokier and more natural looking aging. I've had to content with drag brush or rag marks and you just can't come back over it because it totally changes the original coat. Going to have to hunt to find it in my area though. Am contacting them through their Facebook page to see if there is a retailer near me, since none are listed or if it's available online anywhere.
Had a bed I was rehabbing recently and wish I had seen this before I finished it. It's done in oil stain and urethane. When I've used all the waterbased products and polycrylic top coat I HAVE gone back on top of the poly and done a second or first glaze to get a different look ... and then, of course, come back with more polycrylic. It's another alternative, but definitely not the handrubbed real aged look you get!
And just realized you had a Mohawk link but also mentioned a Sherwin Williams product. Do you use both depending on where you can get the oil based product?
Thank you!!!!
What glaze is that
This is exactly what I've been looking for. Would you have the name of the gray and what sheen did you use on the gray paint.
So sorry. I have no idea.. :-( it was just a random sample door we had left over from a job. I just grabbed the first one I found to demonstrate the technique . Kind of looks like a light beige tone. Maybe a cloud white (Ben Moore) or a velvet white, even? Sorry to not be more helpful about that. The color gets darker after the glaze , so you would want the base color to be lighter than the desired finished color.
@@alanburton6190 Do you think a gray beige base color would look similar
Please- can you tell me where to find chip brushes like the ones in this video? I have some cheap ones but all they do is shed! Messing up my project! Help!
I got the bigger brushes at home Depot. They are 4-in brushes, natural bristle not polyester. I think they were $9 or $10 each. As long as you clean them well, and have one of the brush spinners to clean out the excess solvent, they last forever. Maybe not forever but, they will last for many years, so it's worth the 30 dollars or so investment. Hope that helps.
So 4 passes with each of 3 brushes...12 passes each door...wow! I have 29 doors 🤔
when Bob Ross meets HGTV
What is the difference between brushes 1,2&3
Brush #1 has the most glaze on it since it was used first to remove the glaze while #3 was used last, thus it has the least amount of glaze. When he selects a brush to add excess he then of course uses #1 but uses #3 to remove the additional glaze which was added to provide more character to the piece.
Exactly like biskygiver stated. First brush is wetter, because it gets used first on the wet glaze. Second brush is medium amount wet/dry and third brush is the dryest, because it's used last. Use the dryest brush to "soften" the look. When the third brush gets too wet, wash them all out, spin them dry with a spinner and start all over again.
Clark Heisler what kind of brush’s are you using?
so you used an oil based glaze over a latex paint?
The finishes on these samples was actually factory applied conversion varnish. It's a much harder finish than latex paint. But as long as you scuff sand it and clean it well, you can use an oil base glaze over that and refinish it. As for latex paint, yes you can use an oil-based glaze over it. As long as you clean it well and scuff sand it. I would recommend allowing it to dry overnight. You can finish it with an oil modified acrylic clear coat. ZAR makes a really good oil modified acrylic clear top coat. You could also use spray can laquer for a topcoat if you want to avoid brushing. DEFT makes a good one, but I think RUSTOLEAM is pretty good too. The only problem with using an oil based glaze over latex paint comes from what may be underneath the latex paint.: If someone previously painted latex over a factory conversion varnish, most likely the latex paint will eventually fail and chip or peel off, depending on how the surface was prepped prior to applying the latex. You are at the mercy of whoever painted the latex on in the first place. If you are planning to paint the latex yourself, I would recommend an oil modified acrylic paint. It gets harder than traditional latex paint. Sherwin Williams makes a good one, but Ben Moore should have one too. But prep is the key to make latex stick to conversion varnish. Clean it first with something like TSP or even NAPTHA. Then sand it like crazy to provide enough of a rough surface for a primer to bite into. Primer is another whole subject, but a good Sherwin Williams tech could help you with that one. Good luck, it's a lot of work. 🙂
@@alanburton6190 Thank you. You know, I did a strange project using both latex paint and oil based stain. I forgot about that. Doors originally painted white. I painted doors with flat tan paint, then I came back with oil based stain and brush stroked it until i had a wood finish look. After that dried overnight I top coated it with the Rustoleum MATTE finish. They look great. So i guess they both can be used together under certain circumstances.