That focusing mechanism is a clever engineering solution to implementing a coupled rangefinder on a folding camera - funny that the prevailing wisdom of the era was that the Japanese manufacturers were imitators and not innovators.
another question. the Automat has a lever just below the left side winder knob on the back of the camera, what is its purpose and how does one use it? Thanks J.L.
Hmmm, interesting question. My camera does not have that lever. On the older Mamiya 6 models (before double exposure prevention was added) this was the film advance release lever. When you'd take a picture, a transparent red pointer would drop into the viewfinder area to remind you that you needed to advance the film. Then you'd flick the lever to release the advance knob, and then turn the knob until it stopped. This would retract the red pointer and you were ready for the next picture. My camera doesn't have any of this; the advance knob is locked until you've taken a picture, then it unlocks automatically and you turn it until it stops and you are ready for the next picture, just like a modern camera. I thought all the Automats worked like this, but maybe the first version either did not have double exposure prevention or retained the release lever as a backup in case the counter jammed. Can you use your camera normally without using the lever?
It's a “red window” found on many roll-film cameras going back to the early 1900s. It lets you see the frame numbers printed on the paper backing of the film, to make sure you've advanced it by the correct amount. Normally this isn't necessary on the 6 because it has a mechanical frame counter and automatic film stop, but I guess Mamiya provided it as a backup. The little lever controls a sliding cover that keeps the window covered up when not in use, to avoid fogging the film if the window were to get hit by direct sunlight (which might be bright enough to leak through the paper backing.) On mine the cover is a bit floppy and often slides open in its own, so I put a piece of gaffer tape over it to hold it closed.
I've always wondered about the quality of the various lenses mounted on these cameras over the years. I suspect that the Olympus lens (on yours) is very good. Most models used Sekor lenses made by Mamiya. I have owned two of these over the years. I lost interest at one point and sold the first one. Later, I tripped over a minty later model with case, shade, etc., and could not resist picking it up. The sample shots I have taken with it look very sharp and have good contrast. The camera is extremely tough, most so because of the rear focus system. It is also the heaviest 6x6 folder I've ever lifted. It is not dainty.
Randall Stewart I think the Sekor lenses are found only on the last models - the really old ones have K.O.L. (Kajiro Optical Laboratory) lenses, and some immediately postwar ones have Nikkors (!) but the only ones I've owned have had the Olympus Zuiko lens and Seikosha shutter. I think all these, including the Sekor, are four-element Tessar-type lenses, which normally means very good performance at moderate apertures and medium to long distances, not so good at full aperture or close distances. The only direct comparison I've ever made was at a model shoot last year, where I had planned to use a Mamiya RB67 but switched to the 6 so I could work ore quickly. I had expected the RB67 to be noticeably better, but I couldn't see any sharpness or detail differences.
Sorry, I don't know... the best sources of these seem to be in Japan, so my only suggestions are to watch eBay listings or contact a service such as Japan Camera Hunter that will try to find one in the Japanese used camera shops for you (for a fee.) I got mine at a used camera show in the midwestern United States, and was able to buy it at a bargain price because the rangefinder mirror had fallen off... I found the mirror lying inside of the top, glued it back into place, and recalibrated the rangefinder (easy job thanks to the excellent design of the camera.) But that was sheer luck! Good luck to you in your search...
I would think that it would be hard to get the film to advance smoothly without the spool locks -- the spools would try to shift, which might cause uneven spacing, damage to the film edge, or even jamming. if you already have a camera with missing spool locks, it would be worth trying to use it... but if you want to buy one to use, it would be better to find one that has no missing pieces. Good luck!
Small trivia. This is 1st gen Mamiya 6 Automat. and the second-to-last version of 16 Mamiya 6 siblings. The very last Mamiya 6 is Mamiya 6 Automat that has Mamiya Sekor lens instead of Olympus Zuiko. 2nd version is very rare. Only Automat, both 1st and 2nd, has automatic winding stopper at film counter 1 and automatic shutter winder but then you can wind film when front cover closed and at that time shutter will not be winded. You have to wind the shutter manually. Prior-to-automat versions have neither function. Both Automats has a small lens mount like object under the front lens element. So if you find a Mamiya 6 at eBay or elsewhere saying "Automat" but without the front piece, don't buy from them. They have no idea what they are selling. A funny thing is Automat came with a leather body cover saying "Mamiya-6 Automatic" because Mamiya misspelled when they made a cover. Inflation corrected in 2021, this camera costed around US$10,000 when it was sold in 1958. A super premium camera.
Thanks for the notes. I love trivia! Something I've heard: another ID point for the very last Automat (the one with the Mamiya Sekor lens) is that it also has a van Albada-type viewfinder with reflected bright lines and a slightly larger finder eyepiece... correct? I would think this would be a desirable feature, but I have never seen this model, only pictures, so must be very rare indeed!
Maybe somebody else will have a better idea, but I think this would be pretty hard. If you look at the video, you can see the pressure plate is formed in a particular way and has springs attached to it to maintain pressure. You might be able to cut some illustration board to the right size and then glue foam strips to the back to apply pressure, but it isn't going to be very precise. Your best bet might be to look around for another Mamiya 6 that has a smashed-in front standard or a bad bellows, but does have a pressure plate. Either way, good luck!!
They came with various lenses over the years, including KOL, Nikkor (!) and Olympus like the one on mine. The last model, the Automat II, had Mamiya's own Sekor lenses. As far as I know, all of them are four-element "Tessar type" lenses (the D in "D.Zuiko" designates a four-element lens) which generally means they may not measure up to more complex modern lenses at full aperture and/or close distances, but perform well when stopped down a bit and at medium to long distances. In practice it usually doesn't make much difference, especially in modern usage when you're likely to be scanning your medium-format negatives. Last year I went to a model shoot for which I took along my 6 and a Mamiya RB67 with its 90mm f/3.8 lens, which has seven elements in six groups; in all honesty I couldn't see ANY difference in sharpness when examining the negatives with an 8x magnifier, and the 6 was vastly easier to handle! In terms of results, it probably matters more to find one with good lens alignment and a correctly calibrated rangefinder than whether your lens is a Zuiko or Sekor...
Like a lot of other older roll-film cameras, this one has a red window on the back that lets you see the marks on the film's backing paper if needed. There's a sliding cover over the window to keep bright light from fogging the film. On my camera, the sliding cover doesn't stay closed very well, so I put tape over it. It's gaffer tape, so can be peeled off if needed.
It makes a difference which parts having problems. If it's the focusing or frame counter, you have to remove the top cover and look at the parts to see which one is sticking... often it's because of old, dried-up grease. You can clean it by applying some Ronsonol cigarette lighter fluid (dissolves grease, evaporates cleanly) on an ear swab and carefully wiping until all the grease is gone. Then apply a very tiny amount of new light silicone grease and work it in. The shutter cocking mechanism is the same except that it's under the bottom cover. If it's the shutter, you have to be very careful because it's much more delicate. In principle you would unscrew the front lens element, then remove the shutter speed ring and the slotted plate underneath it, carefully clean the pivots of the moving levers with Ronsonol, and then lubricate them with clock oil. But it's very easy to make a mistake and not be able to put the shutter back together! So I would not try that unless you have practiced on several junk cameras first. The sure way is to send it to a repair shop -- the Seikosha shutter is very standard and was used in a lot of cameras, so most old-time repair technicians will know how to fix it. If you got your camera for a low price, the cost of having it cleaned by a technician will seem very high, and you'll have to decide whether it is worth it to you.
Yeah, I sped up the audio about 20% (but without changing the pitch) so you wouldn't have to listen to my annoying nasal voice for as long. If you had heard the original you'd thank me.
No, this version doesn't. I believe the very last model had fixed, reflected (Albada-type) frame lines, but the reviews I've seen suggest they weren't very effective. If you want a vintage 120-film folding rangefinder camera with modern-style projected frame lines, you need to find a Konica Pearl IV (circa 1958) which shoots 645 format and is very nice, but doesn't have auto shutter cocking. I'd love to have one, but it's sought-after and expensive.A more modern folding rangefinder 120-film camera with framelines was the Fuji GS645.
@@jlwilliams All very accurately stated. Owning one, I'll say that the Konica Pearl IV may be the most perfect 120 (645 format) roll film folder ever made. It is smaller than the GS645, but heavier (Metal v. polycarbonate body). The shutter and aperture controls on the Pearl are a bit easier to use than on the Fuji, but the Fuji has a built-in meter, as well as what is very probably the sharpest lens ever put on a camera of this type. (Modern 5 element v. Tessar copy). Given the collectible status of the Pearl, it is significantly more costly than the no-so-affordable GS645.
Yup! Mamiya made the bodies and bought in the shutters and lenses. The very last model had a Mamiya-made Sekor lens, but a lot of people think the Zuiko is better. And some really old ones had K.O.L. lenses. This article claims customers could even supply their own lens and Mamiya would build it into the camera: camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Mamiya_Six
[Translation: “I have it - the model number may be similar”] Yes, it was in production for a very long time, so there are many versions with similar model numbers but different lenses, viewfinders, shutters, and additional features. The very earliest ones date back to the era of the Second World War, and each of those probably has an interesting history… if only it could be traced!”
Your voice and annunciation reminds me of voice overs from the 50s newsreels. Apt for doing this for a camera of that decade. Very cool indeed.
A very quick and easy to learn from video, JL good instructions.
Great video! I have a mamiya 6 sitting at my sister-in-law's place in Japan. When covid is over, I'll pick it up from her.
That focusing mechanism is a clever engineering solution to implementing a coupled rangefinder on a folding camera - funny that the prevailing wisdom of the era was that the Japanese manufacturers were imitators and not innovators.
Thanks for this video. It was very helpful. I just purchased this camera and was a bit confused as to how to load the film.
another question. the Automat has a lever just below the left side winder knob on the back of the camera, what is its purpose and how does one use it? Thanks J.L.
Hmmm, interesting question. My camera does not have that lever. On the older Mamiya 6 models (before double exposure prevention was added) this was the film advance release lever. When you'd take a picture, a transparent red pointer would drop into the viewfinder area to remind you that you needed to advance the film. Then you'd flick the lever to release the advance knob, and then turn the knob until it stopped. This would retract the red pointer and you were ready for the next picture. My camera doesn't have any of this; the advance knob is locked until you've taken a picture, then it unlocks automatically and you turn it until it stops and you are ready for the next picture, just like a modern camera. I thought all the Automats worked like this, but maybe the first version either did not have double exposure prevention or retained the release lever as a backup in case the counter jammed. Can you use your camera normally without using the lever?
What is the function of the little window and the lever on the back cover, I see you have yours taped up?
It's a “red window” found on many roll-film cameras going back to the early 1900s. It lets you see the frame numbers printed on the paper backing of the film, to make sure you've advanced it by the correct amount. Normally this isn't necessary on the 6 because it has a mechanical frame counter and automatic film stop, but I guess Mamiya provided it as a backup. The little lever controls a sliding cover that keeps the window covered up when not in use, to avoid fogging the film if the window were to get hit by direct sunlight (which might be bright enough to leak through the paper backing.) On mine the cover is a bit floppy and often slides open in its own, so I put a piece of gaffer tape over it to hold it closed.
I've always wondered about the quality of the various lenses mounted on these cameras over the years. I suspect that the Olympus lens (on yours) is very good. Most models used Sekor lenses made by Mamiya. I have owned two of these over the years. I lost interest at one point and sold the first one. Later, I tripped over a minty later model with case, shade, etc., and could not resist picking it up. The sample shots I have taken with it look very sharp and have good contrast. The camera is extremely tough, most so because of the rear focus system. It is also the heaviest 6x6 folder I've ever lifted. It is not dainty.
Randall Stewart I think the Sekor lenses are found only on the last models - the really old ones have K.O.L. (Kajiro Optical Laboratory) lenses, and some immediately postwar ones have Nikkors (!) but the only ones I've owned have had the Olympus Zuiko lens and Seikosha shutter. I think all these, including the Sekor, are four-element Tessar-type lenses, which normally means very good performance at moderate apertures and medium to long distances, not so good at full aperture or close distances. The only direct comparison I've ever made was at a model shoot last year, where I had planned to use a Mamiya RB67 but switched to the 6 so I could work ore quickly. I had expected the RB67 to be noticeably better, but I couldn't see any sharpness or detail differences.
Nice and quick demo!
I want to purchase it, either it new of old but in good condition, where I will find it.
Sorry, I don't know... the best sources of these seem to be in Japan, so my only suggestions are to watch eBay listings or contact a service such as Japan Camera Hunter that will try to find one in the Japanese used camera shops for you (for a fee.) I got mine at a used camera show in the midwestern United States, and was able to buy it at a bargain price because the rangefinder mirror had fallen off... I found the mirror lying inside of the top, glued it back into place, and recalibrated the rangefinder (easy job thanks to the excellent design of the camera.) But that was sheer luck! Good luck to you in your search...
Do you think if the spool locks are missing I will be able to still use the camera?
I would think that it would be hard to get the film to advance smoothly without the spool locks -- the spools would try to shift, which might cause uneven spacing, damage to the film edge, or even jamming. if you already have a camera with missing spool locks, it would be worth trying to use it... but if you want to buy one to use, it would be better to find one that has no missing pieces. Good luck!
Hi, is double exposure possible with this camera?
yes!
Small trivia. This is 1st gen Mamiya 6 Automat. and the second-to-last version of 16 Mamiya 6 siblings. The very last Mamiya 6 is Mamiya 6 Automat that has Mamiya Sekor lens instead of Olympus Zuiko. 2nd version is very rare. Only Automat, both 1st and 2nd, has automatic winding stopper at film counter 1 and automatic shutter winder but then you can wind film when front cover closed and at that time shutter will not be winded. You have to wind the shutter manually. Prior-to-automat versions have neither function. Both Automats has a small lens mount like object under the front lens element. So if you find a Mamiya 6 at eBay or elsewhere saying "Automat" but without the front piece, don't buy from them. They have no idea what they are selling. A funny thing is Automat came with a leather body cover saying "Mamiya-6 Automatic" because Mamiya misspelled when they made a cover. Inflation corrected in 2021, this camera costed around US$10,000 when it was sold in 1958. A super premium camera.
Thanks for the notes. I love trivia! Something I've heard: another ID point for the very last Automat (the one with the Mamiya Sekor lens) is that it also has a van Albada-type viewfinder with reflected bright lines and a slightly larger finder eyepiece... correct? I would think this would be a desirable feature, but I have never seen this model, only pictures, so must be very rare indeed!
Excellent
Hello! I bought one in a surplus shop but it doesn't have a pressure plate. I hope someone can suggest how to make one. Thanks!
Maybe somebody else will have a better idea, but I think this would be pretty hard. If you look at the video, you can see the pressure plate is formed in a particular way and has springs attached to it to maintain pressure. You might be able to cut some illustration board to the right size and then glue foam strips to the back to apply pressure, but it isn't going to be very precise. Your best bet might be to look around for another Mamiya 6 that has a smashed-in front standard or a bad bellows, but does have a pressure plate. Either way, good luck!!
Thay mamiya 6 is beautiful! It looka super compact
I always wanted to know more about the early Mamiya 6. Seems like a sweet medium format rig. How is the lens?
They came with various lenses over the years, including KOL, Nikkor (!) and Olympus like the one on mine. The last model, the Automat II, had Mamiya's own Sekor lenses. As far as I know, all of them are four-element "Tessar type" lenses (the D in "D.Zuiko" designates a four-element lens) which generally means they may not measure up to more complex modern lenses at full aperture and/or close distances, but perform well when stopped down a bit and at medium to long distances. In practice it usually doesn't make much difference, especially in modern usage when you're likely to be scanning your medium-format negatives. Last year I went to a model shoot for which I took along my 6 and a Mamiya RB67 with its 90mm f/3.8 lens, which has seven elements in six groups; in all honesty I couldn't see ANY difference in sharpness when examining the negatives with an 8x magnifier, and the 6 was vastly easier to handle! In terms of results, it probably matters more to find one with good lens alignment and a correctly calibrated rangefinder than whether your lens is a Zuiko or Sekor...
Playing this at 0.75x sounds completely normal.
Where shall I buy it in India?
Absolutely no idea. Good luck!
Why did you cover the back with tape? Other reviews i watched had the back without tape
Like a lot of other older roll-film cameras, this one has a red window on the back that lets you see the marks on the film's backing paper if needed. There's a sliding cover over the window to keep bright light from fogging the film. On my camera, the sliding cover doesn't stay closed very well, so I put tape over it. It's gaffer tape, so can be peeled off if needed.
@@jlwilliams one more question please. the Automat has a lever below the winder knob. what is its purpose?
does anyone know how to clean them? mine is kinda rusty and some parts are kinda stuck and hard to move
It makes a difference which parts having problems. If it's the focusing or frame counter, you have to remove the top cover and look at the parts to see which one is sticking... often it's because of old, dried-up grease. You can clean it by applying some Ronsonol cigarette lighter fluid (dissolves grease, evaporates cleanly) on an ear swab and carefully wiping until all the grease is gone. Then apply a very tiny amount of new light silicone grease and work it in. The shutter cocking mechanism is the same except that it's under the bottom cover. If it's the shutter, you have to be very careful because it's much more delicate. In principle you would unscrew the front lens element, then remove the shutter speed ring and the slotted plate underneath it, carefully clean the pivots of the moving levers with Ronsonol, and then lubricate them with clock oil. But it's very easy to make a mistake and not be able to put the shutter back together! So I would not try that unless you have practiced on several junk cameras first. The sure way is to send it to a repair shop -- the Seikosha shutter is very standard and was used in a lot of cameras, so most old-time repair technicians will know how to fix it. If you got your camera for a low price, the cost of having it cleaned by a technician will seem very high, and you'll have to decide whether it is worth it to you.
@@jlwilliams thank you so much!!! I really appreciate you taking time to help me!
Will this canera do double exposures ?
Yes, you can re-cock the shutter as many times as you want by moving the cocking lever on the top of the lens.
Is this sped up?
Yeah, I sped up the audio about 20% (but without changing the pitch) so you wouldn't have to listen to my annoying nasal voice for as long. If you had heard the original you'd thank me.
Does the viewfinder have frame lines.
No, this version doesn't. I believe the very last model had fixed, reflected (Albada-type) frame lines, but the reviews I've seen suggest they weren't very effective. If you want a vintage 120-film folding rangefinder camera with modern-style projected frame lines, you need to find a Konica Pearl IV (circa 1958) which shoots 645 format and is very nice, but doesn't have auto shutter cocking. I'd love to have one, but it's sought-after and expensive.A more modern folding rangefinder 120-film camera with framelines was the Fuji GS645.
@@jlwilliams All very accurately stated. Owning one, I'll say that the Konica Pearl IV may be the most perfect 120 (645 format) roll film folder ever made. It is smaller than the GS645, but heavier (Metal v. polycarbonate body). The shutter and aperture controls on the Pearl are a bit easier to use than on the Fuji, but the Fuji has a built-in meter, as well as what is very probably the sharpest lens ever put on a camera of this type. (Modern 5 element v. Tessar copy). Given the collectible status of the Pearl, it is significantly more costly than the no-so-affordable GS645.
Speeded up!. Works fine at ¾ speed lol.
A MAMIYA camera with a Zuike D ( triplet four element optic ) made by OLYMPUS.
Yup! Mamiya made the bodies and bought in the shutters and lenses. The very last model had a Mamiya-made Sekor lens, but a lot of people think the Zuiko is better. And some really old ones had K.O.L. lenses. This article claims customers could even supply their own lens and Mamiya would build it into the camera: camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Mamiya_Six
on point thankyou sir
Lay off on that coffee :D... slow down a bit :D.
私、持ってる～。型番似てるかも～
[Translation: “I have it - the model number may be similar”] Yes, it was in production for a very long time, so there are many versions with similar model numbers but different lenses, viewfinders, shutters, and additional features. The very earliest ones date back to the era of the Second World War, and each of those probably has an interesting history… if only it could be traced!”