Very good video ! I cut the ends off 120 film spools and used those ends as adapters for the 35mm roll of film in an RB67 220 back. I have two 220 backs so I do not worry about rewinding the film. After completing a roll, I just replace it with another loaded 220 back. I wait until I get to the darkroom to either develop the exposed film or store the exposed film in a light tight container.
I bought a 220 back for the mamiya and got around 20 shots on each 35 mm film. Also used a Fuji gl690 for even wider panoramic shots. There is a guide called Texpan for doing it with the Fuji. Awesome results.
You can find adapter kit with an additional 120 spool that has a 135 gap in the middle, so the 135 film spools very accurately. Iself use a Hasselblad V system camera with a 220 back. I just tape a 40cm long piece of old 135 film to the film that has to be exposed and then all other operations run by themself even the back frame counter can be used. For an accurate framing I tape some fine sewing thread on the matte screen. Tiny tape pieces maintain the threads on the edge of the screen. It works very well. I made a dedicated screen for sprocket shooting, so I have just to replace it each time I go to sprocket shooting
Greta video! I've shot 35mm on a Mamiya C330s, and I found that you can get your frames much more closely spaced together (so less wasted film) if you set it to 220 film instead of 120 film. I have a Mamiya RB67 and I'm about to try this out with that camera as well. I bought myself a 220 film back specifically for this purpose (they're *a lot* cheaper than 120 backs) and I'm hoping it turns out just as well. I had used s length of 35mm film feeding into a 35mm spool in a second pair of adapters, but I very much like your method of using 120 backing paper and a 120 spool. I'll definitely give that a try.
I like how detailed you are in the process! Btw, I am wondering what are the dimensions for the vinyl frame mask? Are they 70x24mm in the inner rectangle?
This is a very cool way to shoot panoramas! I want to try this on a Pentax 67. I reckon it'll be easier since you can set the camera to 220 and fire away! I might make a mask with a thicker piece of cardboard...
A 220 back for an RB67 isn't expensive (since 220 film hasn't been made in fifteen years or so). A little tape so the friction roller will drive the counter, and you don't have to dance with the double exposure lever -- and the back expects to make 20 exposures, which is more than you can get on a 36 exposure roll of 35mm anyway, but the frames are correctly and consistently spaced instead of getting further apart as the roll progresses. If you can make a frame mask for the film gate, you can make one to drop into the viewfinder as well, so you can frame accurately. For 6x7 (or 6x9 even more so) this is eminently practical. Even for a horizontal transport 6x6 it's of marginal utility, and on 6x4.5 it's firmly in "why bother" territory.
What is the 35mm panoramic size in cm when shooting panoramic with the rb67? I'm trying to see differences in size between the rb67 panos and other cameras offering panoramic conversions or just set panoramic image capabilities such as the x-pan and so on. Great video. Thank you so much, I'm hoping to get some nice winter panoramics.
Thanks for explaining the loading of the film, but how do you unload? Do you do it in a darkroom or? Because the film is fully out of the canister. Thanks!
On point.. I think it all the fad and influence around cuz you can actually just crop a 6x7 into a 2x3 in post and even get better framing.. Anywhere 35mm is developed, so can a 120 be. Plus, 120 film is very accessible so that point is moot.. Out of the influence of seeing people do this on youtube I wasted my e100 on it and you get far less frames than usual.. I consider it a waste.. I might try it again if I ever get bored and wanna waste film
@@SprocketHoles nice, i just got my adapters and will try the canister method, i got it on my pencon six, so no film should be wasted 🤔 also saw some 3d printed takeup spools that can only take the film in the middle so it is not tilted, gotta experiment
@@EpicDubstepManiac very wise would be prewinding film and mount spool in the dark onto that 120-35-spool. film will land in 35mm-cartridge. get bulkspools which can be opened. only one film can be exposed. or darkbag needed.
Why not just shot 120 rolls and crop afterwards. Okay you get only ten shots but gain the ability to „shift“ the frame. Nice hack. I just don’t see the point. Maybe someone could explain.
I agree... I see too much unnecessary compromise: issues of pressure plate sensitivity, light leaks and film alignment... not to mention frame spacing and counter issues. I would just mask the viewfinder and take the photos on 120 film normally. The panoramic composition can be recovered by a simple crop. This is purely a fiddlers exercise. I can see a lack of sharpness in most pano photos taken this way compared to what the cameras can do with the film back it was intended to take (120). If you are printing 20x40 it will make a difference. Kudos for the inventiveness though... it would be satisfying to pull it off.
![Mamiya RB67 - 120 film Medium format Camera. In-depth review [ One Of The Best Cameras ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3oC98LGNHOw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mamiya RB67 - 120 film Medium format Camera. In-depth review [ One Of The Best Cameras ]](/img/tr.png)
Very good video !
I cut the ends off 120 film spools and used those ends as adapters for the 35mm roll of film in an RB67 220 back. I have two 220 backs so I do not worry about rewinding the film. After completing a roll, I just replace it with another loaded 220 back. I wait until I get to the darkroom to either develop the exposed film or store the exposed film in a light tight container.
I bought a 220 back for the mamiya and got around 20 shots on each 35 mm film. Also used a Fuji gl690 for even wider panoramic shots. There is a guide called Texpan for doing it with the Fuji. Awesome results.
You can find adapter kit with an additional 120 spool that has a 135 gap in the middle, so the 135 film spools very accurately.
Iself use a Hasselblad V system camera with a 220 back. I just tape a 40cm long piece of old 135 film to the film that has to be exposed and then all other operations run by themself even the back frame counter can be used.
For an accurate framing I tape some fine sewing thread on the matte screen. Tiny tape pieces maintain the threads on the edge of the screen. It works very well. I made a dedicated screen for sprocket shooting, so I have just to replace it each time I go to sprocket shooting
Greta video! I've shot 35mm on a Mamiya C330s, and I found that you can get your frames much more closely spaced together (so less wasted film) if you set it to 220 film instead of 120 film.
I have a Mamiya RB67 and I'm about to try this out with that camera as well. I bought myself a 220 film back specifically for this purpose (they're *a lot* cheaper than 120 backs) and I'm hoping it turns out just as well.
I had used s length of 35mm film feeding into a 35mm spool in a second pair of adapters, but I very much like your method of using 120 backing paper and a 120 spool. I'll definitely give that a try.
Get job man I love creative tinkering like this.
I like how detailed you are in the process! Btw, I am wondering what are the dimensions for the vinyl frame mask? Are they 70x24mm in the inner rectangle?
Great! now I can use my father's Mamiya RB67 with 35mm film! I was actually looking for some adaptor to load 35mm film into RB67.
This is a very cool way to shoot panoramas! I want to try this on a Pentax 67. I reckon it'll be easier since you can set the camera to 220 and fire away! I might make a mask with a thicker piece of cardboard...
oh man i have a roll of 35mm velvia that i'm saving for a special occasion, this might be it!!
A 220 back for an RB67 isn't expensive (since 220 film hasn't been made in fifteen years or so). A little tape so the friction roller will drive the counter, and you don't have to dance with the double exposure lever -- and the back expects to make 20 exposures, which is more than you can get on a 36 exposure roll of 35mm anyway, but the frames are correctly and consistently spaced instead of getting further apart as the roll progresses. If you can make a frame mask for the film gate, you can make one to drop into the viewfinder as well, so you can frame accurately. For 6x7 (or 6x9 even more so) this is eminently practical. Even for a horizontal transport 6x6 it's of marginal utility, and on 6x4.5 it's firmly in "why bother" territory.
Right on all accounts. I didnt get a 220 back because I was planning to (and have since) to sell this beast.
youtube just suggested to me, this is cool! well done!.. i did this with my hasselblad and out out a video today too!
You need to make a viewfinder frame as well.
Indeed you do
what an awesome video
If you’re using this with multi-exposure set, for I’d the film advanced?
Nice video buddy. Hello from South Dublin :))
What is the 35mm panoramic size in cm when shooting panoramic with the rb67? I'm trying to see differences in size between the rb67 panos and other cameras offering panoramic conversions or just set panoramic image capabilities such as the x-pan and so on. Great video. Thank you so much, I'm hoping to get some nice winter panoramics.
How many shots can I have with Mamiya Rb67 Pro S with a 120 back?
I have this back for 135 film on my SQ-A - 135N. I bought it on Ebay for $95 in 2010. I didn't like it and I sold it
great guide and the images look great, defo much cheaper than an xpan!
Thanks for explaining the loading of the film, but how do you unload? Do you do it in a darkroom or? Because the film is fully out of the canister. Thanks!
Darkroom or changing bag. I'm working on being able to do reloads in the field, but I'm not quite there yet.
Why go to all that trouble when you can just crop a 6x7 in post?
The point is to use 135 film because it's cheaper and easier to get developed. Not everyone has access to 120 film 😉
On point.. I think it all the fad and influence around cuz you can actually just crop a 6x7 into a 2x3 in post and even get better framing.. Anywhere 35mm is developed, so can a 120 be. Plus, 120 film is very accessible so that point is moot.. Out of the influence of seeing people do this on youtube I wasted my e100 on it and you get far less frames than usual.. I consider it a waste.. I might try it again if I ever get bored and wanna waste film
Using the international currency converter you can buy these for less than 10 bIg Macs - Analogue Wonderland is one such place
35 aeE36
Hi! Where you get the "adapters"
thanks
You can either 3D print them (check thingiverse) or order from china (like aliexpress).
Why are the gaps between frames so damn large?
ok but why not just shoot 120mm and crop it?
Because I could use a silly 35mm hacked together setup instead.
@@SprocketHoles fair enough. Didn't know if there was a quality benefit to using 35mm or not
Couldn't you just crop 120 film to a 35mm size? It would seem to me that the grain would be the same
yes, but where is the fun in that?
@@SprocketHoles
I guess you could call it fun but what sense does it make? I guess I could split 120 film to use in a 35 mm camera but why
Isn't it a better idea to put another canister from old film into the taking spool slot, and wind the film back into it? then you just take it out
yes, but the adapters I had were not very good and might break winding the the film So I used a 120 spool instead.
@@SprocketHoles nice, i just got my adapters and will try the canister method, i got it on my pencon six, so no film should be wasted 🤔 also saw some 3d printed takeup spools that can only take the film in the middle so it is not tilted, gotta experiment
@@EpicDubstepManiac very wise would be prewinding film and mount spool in the dark onto that 120-35-spool. film will land in 35mm-cartridge. get bulkspools which can be opened. only one film can be exposed. or darkbag needed.
Why not just shot 120 rolls and crop afterwards. Okay you get only ten shots but gain the ability to „shift“ the frame. Nice hack. I just don’t see the point. Maybe someone could explain.
No fun in the sensible method
@@SprocketHoles fair enough. 😄
I agree... I see too much unnecessary compromise: issues of pressure plate sensitivity, light leaks and film alignment... not to mention frame spacing and counter issues. I would just mask the viewfinder and take the photos on 120 film normally. The panoramic composition can be recovered by a simple crop. This is purely a fiddlers exercise. I can see a lack of sharpness in most pano photos taken this way compared to what the cameras can do with the film back it was intended to take (120). If you are printing 20x40 it will make a difference. Kudos for the inventiveness though... it would be satisfying to pull it off.
A bit anti-climactic that you sold the RB67 :( good video - i will skip the mask in the back and do a test run and see if it is necessary.