You're better off finding a 220 back for this, they're cheap online because nobody makes it any more. 220 is about the same length of 135 so winding to 20 will help you use the entire length of film, note you have blank at both the start and end of the roll where it hit the end of the frame counter. You can also just stub a strip of blank 35mm on the front of the roll with sellotape to avoid losing the first section and unpeel it in the dark bag when you're done. 220 backs also have a pressure plate for the same thickness of film without backing paper which might help with flatness, though you'd probably also want to make a mask out of thin plastic for that too. As for the scans, if you shoot a frame with a grey card or a colour checker it would be a lot easier to see how the two compare.
Yes finally!! hehe. interesting results. Probably would be ideal for landscapes I imagine to get close the xpan look. Would love to see you have a go at that as well and compare results.
Haven’t watched the video fully yet, but I was going to do the exact same thing (same film same camera) the next week! So, happy to see in advance the possible results!
Just curious about your scanning workflow. I use an Epson V550 and at first I was letting the Epson software "convert" the negatives when it scanned them. I don't use the Epson holders - I place the negatives on the scanning bed with a piece of normal glass (I rarely have issues with newton rings..) holding them down. However, recently I adjusted to scanning my negatives as "positives" in the Epson Scan software - then importing them into lightroom and converting with Negative Lab Pro - and the results were astonishing. They looked sooooo much better than just letting the Epson Scan software do the conversion. I now have to basically rescan all my 35mm and 120 because the difference in sharpness, color, and contrast was so drastic.
Hey! I’ve done both in the past, but nowadays I just scans into Epson software and convert (I have a new laptop and since I don’t scan very often, I haven’t set up NLP again). But my process is similar to yours in not using negative holders (and I also rarely have issues with newton rings). Occasionally I’ll use negative holders but usually if it’s something important, it’s already been scanned by the lab, and the reason that I’m scanning is for an experiment like this or something to show on RUclips, rather for anything professional, so I don’t take too much care or precision in the process. I don’t really enjoy the scanning process like I do the printing process, so that’s where you’ll find me if I want to get something specific out of an image
what is your scanning setup? I also have a v600 but upgraded to a new laptop (the m3 pro) but my silverfast 808 doesnt work with the laptop in terms of the software is doing fine but when i prescan i cant see the preview and hence cant do any adjustments on them. i can scan directly and then i can see .. if you have a newer setup in terms of laptop can you help as i am trying not to spend money on upgrading silverfast right away
I have the exact same problem with silver fast on my new Mac (which is m2 pro!). I don’t love the process of scanning so I don’t do it very often. When I do, I just use the Epson scan software. In the past, when I scanned more often, I used NLP but now I prefer just to get lab scans. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help!
@@SophiaCarey i'll make sure to let you know! now just got to decide if the folder or the TLR would make more sense. i guess the TLR because the film runs through it vertically?
Hey Nice shots on phoenix, the roll I did was def underexposed. Need to rate it lower like you did. Please don't call the cops about that joint in my new sprocket hole video, I promise it was all special effects. Subbed!
Hey I have a mamiya rz67 proII also. You will need to use the 220 back to get more frames as our normal film back is designed for only 10 frames. In terms of framing create a mask. Now you have shot a roll measure the panoramic frame. I think it would be 24x67. You then can create a mask easily. The rz67 neg is 56x67. I’ve used black card from an art store.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
just lay a piece of paper on the groundglass and trace it. the overlay a 35 neg on the piece of paper and cut that out. then you have the mask
Perfect idea! Will give that a go, thank you!!
If you're processing the film yourself, it's actually useful that the film winds itself out of the canister. Good work.
You're better off finding a 220 back for this, they're cheap online because nobody makes it any more. 220 is about the same length of 135 so winding to 20 will help you use the entire length of film, note you have blank at both the start and end of the roll where it hit the end of the frame counter. You can also just stub a strip of blank 35mm on the front of the roll with sellotape to avoid losing the first section and unpeel it in the dark bag when you're done.
220 backs also have a pressure plate for the same thickness of film without backing paper which might help with flatness, though you'd probably also want to make a mask out of thin plastic for that too.
As for the scans, if you shoot a frame with a grey card or a colour checker it would be a lot easier to see how the two compare.
so dope!
thank you! hope you enjoyed!
Yes finally!! hehe. interesting results. Probably would be ideal for landscapes I imagine to get close the xpan look. Would love to see you have a go at that as well and compare results.
Yeah for sure! I’m definitely going to give it a go with landscapes and try for a panoramic kind of vibe!
Haven’t watched the video fully yet, but I was going to do the exact same thing (same film same camera) the next week!
So, happy to see in advance the possible results!
Haha no way!! Hope you enjoy!
Cool idea and I love the results !
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
LOVED IT AND NOW I WANNA TRY IT
Hahaha let me know how you get on!
great video, thanks
wow how did you do those comparisons on 1:00 !? Great stuff!
those are hand printed test trips and contact sheets! I have loads of videos on the channel about it! thank you!
Just curious about your scanning workflow. I use an Epson V550 and at first I was letting the Epson software "convert" the negatives when it scanned them. I don't use the Epson holders - I place the negatives on the scanning bed with a piece of normal glass (I rarely have issues with newton rings..) holding them down. However, recently I adjusted to scanning my negatives as "positives" in the Epson Scan software - then importing them into lightroom and converting with Negative Lab Pro - and the results were astonishing. They looked sooooo much better than just letting the Epson Scan software do the conversion. I now have to basically rescan all my 35mm and 120 because the difference in sharpness, color, and contrast was so drastic.
Hey! I’ve done both in the past, but nowadays I just scans into Epson software and convert (I have a new laptop and since I don’t scan very often, I haven’t set up NLP again). But my process is similar to yours in not using negative holders (and I also rarely have issues with newton rings). Occasionally I’ll use negative holders but usually if it’s something important, it’s already been scanned by the lab, and the reason that I’m scanning is for an experiment like this or something to show on RUclips, rather for anything professional, so I don’t take too much care or precision in the process. I don’t really enjoy the scanning process like I do the printing process, so that’s where you’ll find me if I want to get something specific out of an image
good stuff
cool Tupac shirt!
Thank you, and thank you again! 🤣
what is your scanning setup? I also have a v600 but upgraded to a new laptop (the m3 pro) but my silverfast 808 doesnt work with the laptop in terms of the software is doing fine but when i prescan i cant see the preview and hence cant do any adjustments on them. i can scan directly and then i can see ..
if you have a newer setup in terms of laptop can you help as i am trying not to spend money on upgrading silverfast right away
I have the exact same problem with silver fast on my new Mac (which is m2 pro!). I don’t love the process of scanning so I don’t do it very often. When I do, I just use the Epson scan software. In the past, when I scanned more often, I used NLP but now I prefer just to get lab scans. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help!
would you say the height ("length" i guess) of the frames are big enough that it's worth trying this with a 6x6 camera?
For sure!! It’s worth a go! Would be interested to see how you get on with it
@@SophiaCarey i'll make sure to let you know! now just got to decide if the folder or the TLR would make more sense. i guess the TLR because the film runs through it vertically?
Cool. Maybe a 220 film back would allow you to expose more of the film.
That’s true!! I think I have a 220 film back for my RB somewhere, so I might dig it out and give it a go!
Should work and give you 20 frames. 220 film is same length as 36 exp 135.
@@mike747436 I’ll give it a go!
Hey Nice shots on phoenix, the roll I did was def underexposed. Need to rate it lower like you did. Please don't call the cops about that joint in my new sprocket hole video, I promise it was all special effects. Subbed!
🤣🤣🤣
@@SophiaCarey glad i got a laugh! Happy snapping!
the lab scans are horrible, yours are way better. also the sprocket images are cool. good job
They’re definitely a lot more garish 🤣🤣 thank you!
Hey I have a mamiya rz67 proII also. You will need to use the 220 back to get more frames as our normal film back is designed for only 10 frames.
In terms of framing create a mask. Now you have shot a roll measure the panoramic frame. I think it would be 24x67. You then can create a mask easily. The rz67 neg is 56x67. I’ve used black card from an art store.
woaaah
Hope you enjoyed!!
Speak too much....?
Don’t watch then?