Tarot 680 Pro Hexacopter, Component Layout and Maiden Flight
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- An overview of my recently constructed Tarot 680 Pro Hexacopter. I put
this video together because there wasn't a lot on You Tube that showed
where all the bits went and I thought this might help. Also got some
pretty poor video of the maiden flight - Things can only get better :-)
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Excellent video and good talk through your components. I am building one of these also and picked up some great tips from your video. Thank you.
Nice build mate, very neat and tidy. Pretty much the exact setup I am looking to build. Thank you for the upload.
Thanks for the comment, my video skills leave a lot to be desired but I think the first bit gets the message over. This is a great machine, can't believe how stable it is with the NAZA, flies like it is on rails - Cheers
Very good, nice blades. pigeon knows his stuff about batteries. :)
Very nice, clean build.
I mounted my Naza M V2 on the lower plate of a Tarot 650 Sport Quadcopter. More room? I think they are nice frames but really I would take STRONG over nice-looking any day.
Hi, that frame and that uses propellers for this hexacopter.
Hi ! I Have my dron ready to fly but I have a little problem because I don't know how to flying it. I think it's because I dont't push a correct combination in the turnigy 9XRPRO because the computer recognize it perfectly. Can you help me? Thanks!
Hi. Really awesome build! Please clear something up for me - I want to use the same frame with the same canopy (although different colour!) I've seen people talking about the orientation of the top plate, when you intend to use the canopy, has to be with the battery terminals located at the front of the craft otherwise the canopy screws holes don't line up. Is this true? Does this present any other problems during the build? (apparently this is the way Tarot tell you to do it) From looking at your wiring it looks like you have the battery cables running from the front of the craft to the back? Cheers
Hi, You are right, the canopy is held by 3 posts, 1 at the rear and 2 up front, you can see them at 0:53 in the video so you need the battery terminals at the front and the name "TAROT" goes to the rear. Also make sure you match the bottom plate as it has matching holes which allow you to poke a straight hex driver through to tighten up the screws for the posts. The build is pretty straight forward Oh and by the way I have now swapped the canopy for black :-). Thanks for your comment
Thanks for your reply, that's good to know. Your copter is very similar to how I want to build mine, especially with the extension arms for the gimbal. If you have a link for where you got them from I'd be grateful? Still trying to work out what motors, props and ESCs to go for....but that's all the fun :) Cheers
Greg Brookman Hi, I don't know where you are situated but here in the UK I got the tube from www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-OD-10mm-x-ID-8mm-x-Length-1000mm-1-m-Carbon-Fiber-Roll-Wrapped-Tube-3K-UK-/251804258279?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3aa0b40fe7 I am sure you will find similar in other countries. Cheers
That's super, thank you. I'm also in the UK. I'll be getting my 680 frame this weekend, think I'm going to go with DJI e600.
Hi there, great Tarot you get and very nice paint for your canopy ...it seems to be a Transformer helmet....So, i've shown that you wire with Sbus but could you tell me on which port do you connect your Naza M V2.....U, X1, X2 .....etc...??
Thank's a lot and happy fly
Philippe ( France )
+Drones Visions Aériennes Hi, Thanks for the comment. The connection is between X2 on the VAZA and in my case SBUS on the Frsky X8R receiver. If you are using Frsky receiver and you want to use the standard output pins for additional functions, like a gimbal, then you have to bind the receiver in mode 3 or 4 with the transmitter in D16 mode. This will give channels 1-8 on SBUS and channels 9-16 on the output pins. Receiver manual here www.frsky-rc.com/download/down.php?id=102
When you're using s-bus you do not only have the 8 channels to work with, you have all 16 channels. :) (8 channels is only if you use pwm)
+Adrian Navntoft Hi, Thanks for the comment. You are correct, however, to the best of my knowledge in order to operate optional equipment like retracting undercarriage, nav lights or some gimbal operations you need to use the conventional (PWM) receiver outputs. To do this you have to tell the receiver to split the 16 channels, 8 to S-bus and 8 to conventional. This is done by binding in mode 3 (without telemetry) or mode 4 (with telemetry). Please let me know if there is a better way to do this using only the s-bus port?
+Vasilis Analytis I hope you get this as there was no reply option to your comment??
After some experiments I finished with the following gains
150---150---130---150
150---150
Hope this helps
Hi there, just wondering if you were using your Gopro as your FPV camera and was it easy to wire up? Great vid and Great hexa. Cheers.
Hi, Yes I do use the GoPro for FPV, this also helps in framing the video. I have the GoPro set to "narrow" view. This keeps the props and legs out of the way and stops that fisheye effect you get with wide and superwide. If you have a Zenmuse H3-2D gimbal then the power/video/audio and GoPro charging are all handled by the rear connector which the GoPro plugs into. The H3-3d has a flimsy ribbon cable that plugs into the USB on the GoPro but does all the same things so there are no external wires. Other gimbals will require a separate power supply, normally tapped off your 3s or 4s main supply (check the gimbal specs) and the Video/audio will require a USB adaptor like this www.kooltoyz.co.uk/gopro-hero-3-hd-video-out-cable.html there are several on eBay. If you have a 5v supply (from your video Tx) then you can also get a USB adaptor that will charge your GoPro as well. Thanks for the comment and I hope this helps.
RedHotPheasant Thanks, that was some good info, I like your set up and have copied a lot of your ideas for my 680 Pro. Good job! Well done. Cheers.
How do you have that low battery alarm wired in? Does it read bit of the batteries or just one? Thanks! Nice build.
Hi, The balance plug from one of the batteries plugs into the alarm. It reads each cell and the total voltage. You can set the cell low voltage, say 3.6v per cell (total for 3 cells 10.8v) and when the volts drop below this the alarm goes off. I have 2 batteries in parallel and only measure one. The batteries are well matched (only used on this from new) so in practice they drain at almost the same rate. My OSD also gives me the voltage, this alarm is just a final warning to make me return and land. Hope this helps, thanks for the comment
Hi, nice build, just completed the same. The things that interest me are mounts you have used for the x8r antenna and the GPS mount, what material have you used and have you shaped yourself? Again nice build.
Hi, thanks for the comment. The x8r antenna is stuck with double sided tape to a Perspex (plexiglass) support. I have modified it since the video so both stick up in a v shape with a 90 deg spread. Easy made just cut out a letter "Y" about 120mm tall (12mm wide) and the "V" at the top 90 deg spread. The vertical leg is only 40mm long. Then heat it up slowly with a hot air gun until it softens and bend the "V" at the bottom and again double sided tape to stick it under the receiver. Cheers
Blyth Valley Radio Model Club site if I'm not m,mistaken? Recognise the harbour lighthouse in the background :)
Correct but not a member there currently:-)
From North Shields myself but live outside Middlesbrough these days. Good vids on the 680 Pro. Thinking of upgrading from my 450 quad to a hex and the tarot looks a good option.
The upgraded version of this is 4sale if you are interested, see the nxt video for details
Hello :) where did you attach the naza? In the top plate and power distribution board there is a hole in the center. Could you please explain it how you attached it there? Thank you :) and question no two is: do you think it is possible to buy a second buttom plate and attach it witch spacers on top of the top plate to have a nice cleen look? I dont like these hoods with so mich colors on it :) thank you!!!
Hi, Thanks for the comment. The Naza is mounted directly above the centre hole on a piece of plastic that bridges the hole, all held with good double sided sticky tape. If you mount the ESC's under the motors like I have and bring the wires inside the arms to solder to the top plate (PCB) you will find there is not enough space to fit the Naza inside between the 2 plates, even if you could it would make it very hard to reach the connections for maintenance.
For your second question you could buy a second BOTTOM plate and mount them together with spacers using the 3 holes that are used to access the screws that fix the canopy mounts. You can't drill holes in the top plate as you might short the PCB. The canopy is also available in mat black. Hope this helps.
Hey thanks for your fast anser :) i think it is a good idea to install the naza on the pcb because you can reach it very good on that way. i like the design of my f550, because there is the pcb the lower plate. you only have to disassemble the top plate and you have access to all components of the copter. and exact that is my idea. your tip to mount the second, new lower plate with the help of the canopy holes is very good. if i disassemble this plate i have access to the components, too.
thank you :) i guess there will come some questions soon, hope you maybe can help me too? :) thanks man!
I guess he has explained how he mounted the naza afloat the hole. I will advice you against mounting the naza in the provided hole to the button plate. The last time I crashed, the arms went straight into the naza FC.....destroying it instantly.....please always mount on top...
Hello great video like you say not alot on yt showing the lay out on the 680 pro, i've just purchased one with the exact same canopy (blue and yellow) going to extend the camera mount also,where did you purchase the 10mm carbon fibre rods? subscribed and liked thank you once again for a great video
Hi, Thanks for the comment. Got the tube on eBay from this seller www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-OD-10mm-x-ID-8mm-x-Length-1000mm-1-m-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Roll-Wrapped-3K/251616095100?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23982%26meid%3Dc50a82e50d4c4556a821713fd0f17ed6%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D9421%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D251583192156
Hope this helps and good luck.
Hi thank you for the info on the e-bay seller,one thing i forgot to ask you about the canopy the white silicon retaining studs do they sandwich between the canopy thank you again.
Hi again, yes the little grommets are inserted so there is half on each side, they were very tight fit but eventually poked them through with a small blunt flat screwdriver. Also had to pop a hole through the middle as there was a thin membrane across the centre, probably due to bad moulding - Cheers
Hi thank you again for the information very helpful.
great video. can you please tell me what you used to extend the esc wires to the central board?
Hi, Thank you for your comment. I purchased the motors and ESC's from a company in the UK called Unmanned Tech and the ESC's came with long tails so there was no extension required.
Hi, nice rig.
what size of carbon tubes you have to attach the gimbal on? 250mm 500mm?
Adrián Lengyel Hi, thanks for the comment. Originally I started with 500mm tubes and pushed the gimbal as far forward as I could and pushed the battery back to keep it in balance but I had a lot of problems with vibrations on the long tubes giving poor video. I have now settled on 250mm which is a good compromise.
So u had vibration with longer tubes ? Thats sucks :(
I don´t know how many flights you had. Tell me your opnion about the motors? Are they capable for this hexa, well balanced, etc.At what throttle you van hover?
For the price, the motors seem Ok probably only flown about 3 hours in total without problems (weather and time preventing me from getting out more). The motors are well balanced out of the box but I do have one motor that seems to have a rough bearing and it is hard to balance, will probably change that one. I am not an expert flyer so fly on GPS and Atti mode where the hover is managed by the Naza and is always at half stick. It takes a good amount of stick to break it off the ground but one in the air it is fine and climbs fast enough for me. Thanks for asking
RedHotPheasant
Thank you for your quick reply. It helps me to decide. Happy flying.
Hi. Can you please share your gain settings ? TY
Great job on your HexaCopter and video, I hope my Tarot 680PRO will be as nice. Can you tell me what Brand & size you used ESC?, thank you so much.
Hi, Thanks for the comment. Motors (880Kv) and ESC's (30 Amp) are matched purchase from www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/quadcopter-motor-esc-combo-kit.html Cheers
Haha pigeon
It did sound like a pigeon
Nice job
😮😮😮😮😍😍😍😍
Hello, How were you able to control the gimbal from the ground?
The gimbal is controlled via 2 of the spare PWM channels on the FrSky receiver. These channels are mapped to the right and left sliders on the transmitter giving control of pan and tilt
RedHotPheasant Thank you very much!
Hi name of gimbal?
Silicone would have saved one motor and one esc for me. sandwitch smoke! :(