Tarot 680 Pro - Motors - Props - Battery - Gimbal
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2015
- It has been almost a year since I built my Tarot 680 Pro and I have made a good few changes during that time which I thought might be of interest. In this video I go through how I selected the motor, prop and battery combination as well as share my experiences with different gimbals. Please leave any questions you may have in the comments and I will do my best to answer.
Thanks for watching
Original Video: • Tarot 680 Pro Hexacopt...
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"Jellyfish in Space" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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"Anamalie" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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Наука
Thanks for sharing your very thorough research - most impressive and I'll be referring back to this once I make my final decision on my first build.
Great build and info on your bench testing. I'm about to build my first HexaCopter primarily as a camera platform and wasn't quite to sure on the 680 Pro. So far everything seems to fit the bill. Thanks for posting!!!
Great video, well documented and narrated - Great job!
Excellent report on your research. I might use your findings as a blueprint for my build. Very nice job. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment, I am pleased it helped in some way:-)
Very informative video. Thanks for the reviews of the gimbals. I am using the Tarot 2D but always looking for something better.
Hi Peter she is looking real nice, so glad you have your gimbal sorted out now it looks very nice
George Abernethy Hi George, thanks for the comment. Had it out at the weekend for some general flying and got 20 mins flight time before the battery alarm went off at 3.6 v/cell (14.4v)
Very very very nice setup! A+.
Cheers for this video mate.. very informative!
thanks for your video, good job, I, have the same tarot 680 pro and ,I use the same motors,and 13 inch props. I am useing the 10,000 mhp 10 C, lipo, 4s battery, and i get over 20 min of safe flying time , I did put retract landing gear on my hex, it mad a big change in how it flew, and how it look, looks like a mean machine in the air, been flying the 680 over 3 yrs now. it is a super hex, to fly,
thank you for this video, very interesting
One of the best Videos I have seen. I specifically Like your research approach to motor options. Thank You.
My Build to date: Its been slow due to Job responsibilities and I may have to change the Controller to something more recent, but I have been prototyping based on the APM 3.1 using Mission Planner for Ground Station, Telemetry and Autonomous waypointing control etc. which all works quite well so far. Lift capability should be ~ 20Kg Quad or ~ 30Kg Hex.
Frames: So far looked at the Tarot 680 Pro, the Arris M700, The KongCopter FQ700 X8 Quad (Main Body Strength Foldability and Reparability being my major criteria). I prefer Frames with Retractable LG,
ESCs and Motors: You provide quite a bit of GUidance on that Topic so possible Ill crib some of your stats.
Camera: I have GoPro type cameras I am satisfied with but I would really like to fly a DSLR and while I'm not at that point as yet; the main consideration being Available Camera Control Software for a Sony A55 DSLR.
Gimbal: So much to Choose from and for the Camera I want to fly I e point of choosing a Gimball yet.
Thanks Again
KDL
Thanks for your comment and update on your project.........you said lift capability 20 Kg to 30 Kg did you mean 2.0 to 3.0 Kg?
Beau joujou !
Thats the kind of review, i wish to have. Lots of technical info. Also i need suggestions on flight controller and fpv system. Thanks pal.
Great looking HEX! I'm in the middle of building a 680 Pro myself, I'm building a little at a time as funds allow! I'm a disabled vet and am trying to get a program started for other disabled vets to find a new reality that reaches past their disability via drones with cameras! Anything you might know of that might help us would be greatly appreciated! Wish us luck and keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your program
Wow that is awesome love the flying skills! :) Excellent job on your video! :) Greetings from Ireland ! :) I love flying my Q500 for some aerial footage! :) Thanks a million for sharing! :) Thumbs up from me! :)
Drone Girl Hi, Thanks for the comment - appreciated
walkera 3D jello- i solved my problem by using small tywraps thru 2 of the rubber dampners not tightening them completely but helps assist the dampners using on F650. Great videos and perfect quality work.. thanks for sharing your info.. i just got a tarot frame to play with.
kamaaina2012 Hi, Thanks for the comment. Your idea sounds good. I managed to reduce the jello a lot by pushing some plastic tubing (like fuel tube but a bit thicker) through the hole in the dampers. It was a tight fit and stiffened the dampers. If your props and motors are balanced you need very little damping, soft dampers cause more problems than they solve.
cool video
Great Video, very informative.
The best part was at the end though, where you did the gimbal shoot out! You should re-post just that segment (maybe starting with a briefly list of the gimbles you are going to test at the beginning) and you would most likely get a lot of views.
Just my humble 2 cents
+Matt Michael Hi, Thanks for your 2 Cents, its appreciated. I don't have a lot of free time at the moment but might just do what you say when I get around to some editing:-)
Thanks for watching. Your setup sounds ok and I agree that the legs are fragile, only the gentlest of landings possible. I resisted extending the motor arms as when they are longer they get in the video footage, but if it works for you great. You seem to have a lot of batteries on board could you not just use a small regulator off the main supply and save some weight? Cheers
Thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear about your flyaway:-( I watched your video and it looks very like mine and similar weight. Mine still going strong but have constant issues with camera vibration. Seems that the motor arms are difficult to keep tight - if they were rigid rather than folding it might be better. Hope you move on to another project. Cheers
Nice set up - ideal for a roof inspection!
I flirted with a quadcopter (emax 250 nighthawk). An absolute pig to fly. I put it down to the CC3D flight controller. Not the pilot.
MichaelStanley34 Hi and thanks for the comment. In GPS mode this almost flies itself, all I do is "nudge" it around the sky. Let me know if you want that roof looking at :-)
Nice work! How much you spend in the lastest version? (with out discarded parts)
Thank you for your experience that help me even I going to get the battery you have the two in 2c each for 16,000 mAh I hope they will work with my motors below
I just finish put it together with those part tell me what do you think
those the part i have
Tarot 6S 380KV 4008 4108 Brushless Motor TL68P07
Hobbywing XRotor 40A APAC Brushless ESC 2-6S
Tarot 680 PRO TL2829 T Series 1355 Carbon Fiber
Wild ScorpionNano Battery 5500mAh 6c
25c to 80c Voltage 22.2V
I test the motor to run but in flight mod yet
良いですね😉
I have some 10 x 3.8 carbon propellers from another quadcopter. How much efficiency will I lose by using them do you think? Thanks!
Beautiful hex you have here. I'm in the research stages of my next build and your latest hex is my inspiration. Do you have a web site of the parts list / specs for this bad boy?
Manny Martinez Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately I got the parts from many different places, most of which I have mentioned somewhere in the 2 videos on the 680. If you get stuck for anything send me a message and I will try and help. Good luck
Hi can you sent me a list of your parts? I would like to build a drone by myself but don't know wich parts are good.
Thanks!
Hello,
The video has been very informative. Could you provide the list of parts for your drone?
Much appreciated. Thank You
If you watch this video and the original (ruclips.net/video/1MGzNbeVgRU/видео.html) you should find all the specs you need.
What is difference between this and Tarot 690s?
I tried auto tuning, but it crashed, then I tried manuall tunning, its still not became stable and crashed.
Can anyone help me how to make my build stable and less sensitive.
Now when I just touch throttle it rapidly goes up-down. I tried modifying sensitivity, radio transmitter curve etc nothing helped.
I want my hexacopter to less sensitive to radio input, smooth roll,pitch and yaw.
What should I achieve that??
Flight Controller: PIXHAWK PX4 2.4.7
Firmware version Copter 4.0.5
Transmitter: "FrSky Taranis Q X7 ACCESS 2.4GHz 24CH Mode2 Transmitter with R9M 2019"
ESC: Hobbywing XRotor 40A-OPTO ESC
Motors: Tarot 4108 High Power Brushless Motor (380kv)
Battery:6S.
Frame:Tarot 680Pro
Useful info, I ended up with the FY Mini3D gimbal on mine, but its still not perfect, catching tiny vibrations still.
I went for 12x3.8 props and RCTimer 4215 650KV motors and get 13.5mins from a 5.8Amp 4S pack. That may be of interest to you efficiency wise.
Thanks for the comment, very interesting.
hi, great looking piece of kit. I'm just starting a build. can I ask what esc have you used? Regards
+Lance Gahan Hi, Thanks for the comment. The ESC's are 30A purchased from www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/. Cheers
You must be going through alot of cash......
Great job.....
Paul Preston Thanks for the comment. You are right, this hobby can eat cash, need to put the brakes on every now and then :-)
Nice setup: just one question - is 10C a suitable discharge rate for your 4S? - I've got the same-ish setup but with 580kv motors and I run a 4S 65C
Hi, Thanks for the comment. 10C at 16000mAh is a massive 160Amps and I only draw 31Amps in hover. At max throttle it would be 150Amps which I would only use as a "burst" and the battery has a 20C burst rating (320Amps) for 10 seconds. Remember, this is a camera platform, not a racing machine. Hope this helps. Cheers
I've been building this same frame since last August. I've found that the vertical landing skids are crap. We created some from 16mm aluminum tube and epoxied the t joints as well (another weak point).
Also, I replaced the motor mounts with some a little more beefy and they also have rubber damping grommets for vibration suppression on them as well as being almost all CNC aluminum. It actually reduces the weight because these mounts are a little smaller. However, it does reduce the boom length somewhat and I am swinging 13 inch CFs also. My solution was to extend the booms to make the hex more like an 810. This allows me, later down the road, to swing bigger props..up to 15", and I will likely switch out to 320KV motors and run a 6S power supply. This will allow, at 3.2 kilos, for about 30 minutes mixed flight time.
My setup is as follows:
Tarot 680Pro kit with booms modified to make it about an 810mm
FC: Pixhawk w/900mhz telemetry module and Ublox GPS.
Radio: Taranis X9D Plus trasmitter with a lipo voltage module to send battery telemetry back to the radio. X8R telemetry receiver
Power: Attopilot 50V/180A power module/sensor, Castle 5V UBEC (switched) for power to the FC, 6X Castle 35A QuadPack ESC w/ 1 ESC/BEC providing FC backup power to the servo rail on the flight controller, 6X Sunnysky V3508-20 580KV outrunner motors. Zippy 8000mah 4S battery, Multistar 10000mah 4S battery, 2s 800 mah battery (for powering the gimbal).
Accessories: Gopro Hero 3+ Black; Tarot T2D gimbal.
BigTulsa What did you use for the boom mod? Did you just buy longer arms? Where did you source? I am also interested in the motor mounts. Vibration reduction is important to me too.
***** I sourced it from a location in California, but after doing that, I realized that you could buy the tubes for the 810 and use those and it cost less, as buying the raw carbon tube cost me nearly $70USD and I had to figure out how to cut which isn't easy for 3k Carbon Tube.
Just search for 333mm Tarot booms and 323mm Tarot booms (the non foldable ones are 10 mm longer). The motor mounts that come with the kit are utter crap. Tarot makes some that are about double the price of the kit mounts, but well worth it as they are vibration damping. Just search for TL68B33 (Red mounts) and TL68B34 (black mounts). These are all CNC aluminum save for the carbon fiber mounting plate. Hope that helps.
Thanks. That is much clearer.
+BigTulsa Nice build. How are you liking it? I'm looking to build something similar to yours. Is there anything you'd change on your setup? Also, do you have a build log anywhere on the web?
+Manny Martinez No log, but I did make some changes. I haven't been able to fly it much. Been fighting an issue with a particular motor after I did make a change from 580kv SS motors to 380kv Tarot. The Castle ESCs just couldn't handle the lower KV motor. Free fall from 150 feet, but with motors still spinning it pancaked into the grass. Some damage but better than nosing it in.
We switched to DYS 30A BLHeli ESCs; within two weeks realized that was a mistake as the DYS couldn't handle the timing either. Switched again to HobbyWing Xrotor 40A just about a week ago. These seem like winners.
Stayed with the 13x5.5 props as the 15s aren't even specced on that new motor setup.
Also included a switch and 4 led strips for visibility (two red two green) on the front 2 and back 2 arms.
Been raining for the last couple of days; however I will be flying this weekend to tweak it.
Hi, very informative Video. Radio RC have on there website a similar spec'd Hexacopter which I supplied the details to them. The frame being the 680, EMAX motors and CF props. On my original I used 1x 5000mah 4S lipo and got around 15 minutes flight time, since then I have now produced a second larger Hexacopter, again based around the Tarot 680, the changes I have made are different motors/props. Changed the length of the arms and it now measures 1.04m from motor spindle to motor spindle. The props have increased too 15x5.5 again CF. the new Hexacopter now carries 2x8000mah 4S Lipos and have yet to do a maiden. I have also printed many custome mounts as I am not a fan of Velcro. I prefer cable ties. Easier to remove the electronics and look a way neater. If you would be interested in any joint development please let me know.....
Thank you for watching and providing the details of your project which sounds interesting. Currently I am concentrating on my fixed wing flying and will be for the foreseeable future, therefore I have not done any work with the hex for some time although it is ready for action. If you think I can help in the future just drop me a pm. Good luck with the maiden
Hey what ESC and size are you running on you tarot 680? with the emax motors and 1355 props. thanks
Randy
Hi, 30 Amp own brand supplied by Unmanned Tech in the UK. Unfortunately they don't seem to be available anymore.
Which esc you used in this drone brother
Hi there your video's have help me immensely in getting my own 680 up and going. I've just purchased a DYS Smart3 3 Axis GoPro Gimbal. I was wondering do you have any resources you used for getting this going? Any help you provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and happy flying.
+digiIce Hi, The DYS performs well but is by far the most difficult to set up. I trawled RUclips for videos and gathered as much information as I could. This Video helped ruclips.net/video/pkEEBEzGJCk/видео.html although the guy is not that happy with the product, the information he provides is good.Cheers
+RedHotPheasant Hi, Thanks for responding. I too also have a Frsky Taranis Plus with a Naza M V2 as my flight controller. It sounds like your are quite right. Getting this configuration going is going to be a bit tricky. Buy thanks for the lead on the video.
Cheers!
hey iwant to buy this drone what will be cost please
What Tx/Rx are you using? Looked like a Taranis but wasnt sure. How do you like it?
Shane Miesse Hi, Yes it's a Taranis with X8R on SBUS. Works really well, infinitely configurable once you get your head around the programming with the bonus of telemetry and voice alerts all for under £200 :-)
Hi all , I am building the same drone chassis with the same battery multistar 16000 mah. I have to decide which kind of motor will hold the overall drone (including same gimbal). I contacted radioc for the motors and esc but unfortunately don't have it anymore. Can anyone recommend me an alternative solution for motors and esc?. Thanks a lot. I would prefer strongest motors (heavy lift).
I also have a DYS gimbal but have a terrible controller. What did you use?
+Jason Austin Hi, if you are referring to the gimbal controller the one that came with it is an Alexmos.
Could you please give me the specs on your total build. Thank you for offering up your work I'm currently moving to this frame from the DJI F550 -
+Mike Butler Hi, thanks for watching. If you watch this video and the original (ruclips.net/video/1MGzNbeVgRU/видео.html) you should find all the specs you need. If you then have a specific question I will try and help. Cheers
Hi, could you tell how You attach motor to freame? I have the same engines, the same frame and motor has 19x25mm holes but frame mount engine is 16x19mm. BR
+flaszynski Hi, From what I can remember 2 of the 4 holes lined up and I drilled the extra 2 in the carbon plate.
Which esc you used
hi, great vid. I've got 580kv and 1600mah Batt. what are your gains set at. I'm struggling getting stability.
Thanks for the comment. Pretty standard actually. After some experiments I finished with the following gains
150---150---130---150
150---150
Hope this helps
sorry I forgot I already asked you. thanks for response. just replaced Naza lite with V2. hopefully it is more dependable.
i am having a problem with vibration also, do you know of any websites that i can buy new dampeners from ?
This could be the sort of thing you are looking for.www.helipal.com/tl68b34-16mm-aluminum-motor-mount-w-damper-black.html
Hi, what your comments about using DJI E800 or DJI E600 motors would it be efficient for Tarrot 680 pro?
Vanan Navarasan Hi, depends on your "all up weight" Both the E600 and E800 because of their relatively low Kv require 6S batteries to get the revs up which puts the weight up if you are looking for high capacity. The biggest I found was 12000mAh and was almost 2Kg in weight and cost 120 GBP. For me motors of this Kv should be turning much bigger props of 14" or 15" (which are too big for the 680). I would recommend a higher Kv motor that can produce the required thrust on a 4S battery and this will keep the weight and the price down. Thanks for watching
Vanan Navarasan Hi iam using the 600s on my Tarot 680 pro and getting 10 mins flight time from a zippy 4s 5800mAh and after 10 mins still having 15,60 volt, but that is with gentle flying not flying it like i stole it hope this helps. E600 package all electronics on board running from said battery, except video Tx
George Abernethy Hi George, with a full charge a 4s will give a max of 6900 rpm. a 6s charged will give 10500 rpm. Try a 6s and you will se a big difference in performance and time. Cheers Peter
RedHotPheasant Hi Peter and thx for the info, not disputing 4s over 6s, just giving the chap above my experience with the E600 motors and ESCs and what flight times he may expect from a 4s 5800mAh, i have stack of 4s now so i will be holding onto them for a while before buying 6s have given you a thumbs up on your reply for great advice cheers George
could this drone lift gh5 / blackmagic micro on appropriate gimbal like gremsy t1?
Simple answer is "No" not with the existing motor, prop, battery combination. I would also recommend a bigger frame of at least 800mm to 1000mm for that type of equipment :-)
hi there, nice set up, have a question on the multistar battery you using, as i used them in the beginning i got extreme voltage sag and my voltage alarm went of as soon i armed the copter , how are they performing with your set up?
+Meister Grinder Hi, Thanks for the comment. The Multistar batteries are performing well with my set up with no appreciative voltage sag when flying. My batteries are 16Ah at 10C continuous which is 160 Amp pull. All six motors at full throttle will only pull 150 Amps. Towards the end of my flight if I try and climb fast the battery alarm will go off, returning to hover for a few seconds will allow the battery to recover and I can fly on (gently) for several more minutes. That situation will apply to most LiPo batteries unless you are using a really high "C" rating say above 40C but I don't need that for my type of flying. Hope this helps. Cheers
+RedHotPheasant thank you for your reply highly appreciated , maybe have got a faulty battery, but for now i am pretty happy with the zippycompact 40c 4s 6200mah in parallel as i have 8 engines and needing about 21-27 amps each at full throttle, by any chance do you know if i need to lubricate bearings of motors for maintenance?
+Meister Grinder Hi, Zippy Compacts are really good batteries ,price and performance. On lubrication there are different opinions. Personally I don't lubricate - decent motors come with sealed pre-lubricated bearings and if you do have a problem it is easy to replace the bearing. Adding lubrication risks it getting into the windings, it will attract dust where it turns into fine grinding paste and actually reduces the life of your motor/bearings. Happy flying
+RedHotPheasant thank you for your reply, helped a lot and is highly appreciated , thank you
Nice!!
I'm mounting a similar drone using a DYS Smart gimbal. Can you send me your profile with PIDs values?
Thank you
Hi, Sorry I don't have the DYS gimbal anymore and did not keep a record of the PID values.
Hello thank you for your vidéo. That's help me to choise . I would like to know how many ampère do you use in flight with your 3510 and your 13.5/5
+Jean Louis Girard Hi, Thanks for the comment. In practice I am getting slightly better results that the bench test. Depending on the wind (in strong wind motors have to work hard to hold position) the current draw has been around 25-27 amps and a full 25 to 30 minutes gentle flying is possible before the battery alarm goes off which is set at 3.5v/cell. Hope this helps:-)
RedHotPheasant
it's a very low current for each motors! So a 20a esc is enought.
+Jean Louis Girard ..Yes 20a esc is technically ok but I went for 30. If the hex has an accident and falls over with the motors running and catches a prop, a stalled motor could very quickly blow a 20a esc.
i sugest that you should adjust the gimbals pid
i also supect your motors vibration
i got similar but a bit different,
the motor got vibrate when there is a gust of wind/strong wind, even when hover at 50-100 meters
but when there is no wind and i flew it low enough about 3-5 meters and no wind? the vibration gone
since i got rc timer 5010 motors i supect it have bad dynamic ballance
i already ballance the props
so i sold all the 5010 motors and buy 3508 motors
+j3fron Hi, thanks for the comment and helpful information :-)
Hiya, What gains did you end up with? And based upon what flight gear...motor kv, lipo cell count, prop size, and AUW. Thanks.
+John Robertson Hi, Thanks for the comment. After some experiments I finished with the following gains
150---150---130---150
150---150All the other info you asked for is covered in the video:-) Thanks
+RedHotPheasant Sorry the comment got crossed out by mistake. Last line is 150, 150 and all the other in formation you asked for (and much more) is in the video:-) Thanks.
Well actually, in my mobile it wasnt crossed out. So what I have is a 680 with monsterous motors..I didnt buy them, it came that way...turnigy 4822 690 kv.I bolted the 13x5 to it and thought the naza had its initial tuning in it( it was a flying model, only having its rX removed) i set it up on the naza utility, and assumed the 100% I saw was correct. It was very wobbly, and I reset all to 150. A little better, but still shakey. But yours flew fine with 150...and i only had a single 5000 4S on it. Maybe double the lipos up to have more ballast against all that thrust? Are you sponsored by those 6 gimbal companies? I mean thats a lot of kilts you gotta weave to sell and get that kind of money!! Isnt there a local company making one? Ya know, if its not Scottish, its crrrap.
+John Robertson Hi, Your 690Kv motors should be fine, you could possibly drop down to a 12 x 5 or 12 x 4,5 prop as your craft will be lighter with one battery, that would make it a bit smoother. Is it just bouncy in the hover without any stick input or is it bouncy when you let the stick go back to centre say after you have been banking left or right?Regrettably no sponsors, just my hard earned cash. After a lot of fiddling about I managed to get them all to work well and have managed to move them on now and got some cash back. I kept the Feiyu-tech. No Scottish makes but I did buy mine from Marionville models and Kooltoys, both in Scotland! Cheers
Well, I was thinking I would add the second battery increase the weight so the large Motors would have to have a load to work against. It had a shaky flight with no stick inputs just a short distance off the ground before lowering it back down in the event it got too unsteady. There are some guys in my alien 680 Facebook group who use the Fiyutech gimbal. They liked it also.
If I had this Tarot or a similar multicopter, I would be interested to install a little bigger gimbal for mirrorless cameras as for example the Sony A7 series, a full frame camera sensor with a lot better capability under low light, a great High ISO performance, etc, etc, not these ubiquitous Gopro that offer a very limited pictures quality and do not have interchangeable lenses.
Maybe also a Gopro, but just, when I need to have a little longer flight times.
I agree. The GoPro is highly overrated and quality/performance is borderline at best, especially in dealing with different light intensities and they are not cheap. Perhaps I will use your suggestion in a future project. Thanks for your comment.
At time 4:34, 3510 says '600 kV' in that spreadsheet (not 660 kV). But very nice video clip.
Hi, Thanks for your comment and observation. If you look at the bottom of the screen at 4:34 you will see the caption correcting my mistake.
Thanks for sharing your experiences, your setup is similar to my own - 3510 520KV motors with multistar 16000 4S battery. Hover time was about 26 minutes ruclips.net/video/YH4FsC4tlrk/видео.html
I made a small modification to the motor mounts so it would take 14 inch CF props.
The 680 is an impressive Hex, looks great when flying. Sadly mine suffered a NAZA flyaway and was totally destroyed after just a couple of months but I enjoyed it very much while it lasted.
Kotik hey mate what's your gains with the 16000 battery? I'm struggling with getting it to fly correctly.
Hello, you could list here the equipment you use after the tests?
+Leandro Guimarães Hi, Thanks for watching. The final equipment is all highlighted in the video and I eventually settled with the Feiyu-Tech G3 ultra gimbal. Once you get it set up and get used to the way it works it needs very little attention and it has given the best results for me so far.
RedHotPheasant Ok, thanks for the reply, I saw what is written on the screen and shows you the items. Thanks.
What size esc are on the motors
Each ESC is 30Amp
Where can I get the motor calculator file?
Hi, Thanks for your comments. Unfortunately I no longer have the excel file as it was a few years ago now. On price you can look back in the comments and somewhere there I gave price breakdown but again much has changed in 3 years so probably much cheaper now.
what kind of charger that u use to charge 16000mah 4s battery
+GatotGamers Hi, I use the Hitec H4 charger See here for details. hitecrcd.com/products/chargers/dcdc-chargers/h4-dcdc-four-port-multi-charger/product
thanks, i try to use imaz b6ac+ but it only can deliver 5 amp
VELOCITI MAX?
carissimo amico, ho visto il tuo video e lo ritengo molto interessante, vorrei farti una domanda-come hai livellato i motorI? (io sono in procinto di montare il tuo stesso modello E ti sarei grato se mi dai un suggerimento) saluti.
dear friend, I saw your video and I think it is very interesting, I would like to ask you a question-how did you level the motors control? (I'm about to assemble your own model and I would be grateful if you give me a hint) greetings.
+Giovanni Acanfora Hi, Thanks for the comment. I hope I understand your question. All I do is set the 680 nice and level on a flat table then I put the propellers on and set them at 90 degrees to the arm, then I measure the height of each tip from the table and twist the motor mount until they measure the same before tightening the screws. Hope this helps.From Google Translate:Ciao , Grazie per il commento . Spero capito la tua domanda . Tutto ciò che faccio è impostare il 680 bello e il livello su una superficie piana poi ho messo le eliche su e li misi a 90 gradi al braccio , poi misuro l' altezza di ogni punta dal tavolo e torcere montare il motore fino a che non misurano la stesso prima di stringere le viti . Spero che questo ti aiuti.
RedHotPheasant ho sentito anche di altri metodi, proverò anche questo che mi suggerisci tu. ti ringrazio tantissimo per avermi risposto velocemente.
First of all, very good video, thank you for sharing your researches. I wonder if you maybe also tried gimbal Quanum 3D (also for gopro)? I use it for all of my videos, so far it worked fantastic (smooth operation, no yello, etc.). You can see it in action in aerial videos on my channel. If you are interested, check it out.
+Blueflight Hi, Thanks for the comment. I haven't tried the Quanum 3D but looking at your videos it seems really good. Your videos are excellent, wish I could get the same results :-) looks like a nice part of the wold also. Cheers
+RedHotPheasant Thanks for your reply. I would suggest you to balance your props and motors (if not yet balanced) and to check your gimbal connection to the frame. From the video (11:46) I see that the gimbal is fixed to the frame (2 gold/silver screws visible from front side) and that may also be the problem for shaky footage. Your gimbal's bottom plate should be hanging freely only on those rubber things (I dont know how they are called exactly, sorry) and only the top plate should be fixed to the frame.
Hi, I spent a lot of time balancing both motors and props, using vibro meters and even lasers but I found it almost impossible to get perfect results across the full range of revs. I find that the tubular arms of the 680 have a tendency to resonate (vibrate) at specific points in the rev range which I haven't yet rectified. It is difficult to see in the video but the gimbal is only supported by the dampers (rubber things). The BOTTOM plate (near to gimbal) is fixed to the frame by the silver screws you see. These pass through big clearance holes in the top plate and the gimbal is attached to the top plate. This means that the rubber dampers are being slightly compressed by the weight of the camera and gimbal rather than being stretched if the camera and gimbal where just hanging off the bottom. In my tests I have found that there is more jello from soft dampers than from hard. I need to do some more tests but have not had time lately. Thanks again for your comments and observations
+RedHotPheasant Hm, the fact that you have found more jello from soft dampers than from hard is very interesting... I would expect that there are more vibrations when bottom plate is fixed (like it is now). But if you have done the tests, then obviously this is not the case... I have no other ideas why you still have jello, I can just suggest you to do additional tests (like you said). And never give up, one day you will find the solution :) good luck
.........it's all part of the fun :-) Happy flying and keep making those great videos. One day I will get one as good as yours. Cheers
How much is this build total?
Without TX, Rx or Gimbal about 750 GBP all items bought new and in the UK so not necessarily the cheapest.
Just bare in mind that with the loss of your 2p battery you have lost redundancy.