Sorry if the music is mixed too loud in this video. It sounds fine coming out of my speakers, but I know different speaker systems can make the levels sound different, so I have tried to decrease the music volume more in my newer videos. Go check those out for better sound mixing/more fun woodworking content! Thanks for watching!
@@arthurkariuki3018 depends on the area you live in. if you can make stuff using reclaimed wood you would do good in hipster areas like Portland and such
Thomas Anderson Agreed. It’s just in the way. You don’t need it. Ask Matthias Wandel and Paul Sellars. Your content is interesting, but the music makes it unwatchable for me. Best of luck with the channel.
Quiet music is not bad for short clips, but loud music is normally reserved for montages and transitions. Try wearing a headset to review your final edit.
You helped this gal out with your most excellent suggestion of edge jointing using a longer known straight board against which to reference through your tablesaw. Using a planer jointing jig and wedges to get flat top, quickly flipping it to make it parallel and your method of straight lining one edge, I had a lovely piece of dimensioned walnut in about 15 minutes. Far out! Thanks so much!
So this came up in my feed without me looking for it. Totally what I needed at just the right time. I'm in the process of making 2 large tables with boards that will really exceed the capacity of my jointer. Even having been doing this most of my adult life (as a hobby), I'm still amazed as to how simple yet genius things like this are. Thank you sir! Keep em coming.
I must say this video is AWSOME!!, just love the way you explain, simple not too much blah blah and not showing the "how to do". Also the angle of how you place so that one can see, it's simply great! True, the music is a little loud, but overall the music is very nice. Please keep up your videos!! Thank you for sharing Shaun!!
Seriously Shaun, Chris Salomone pointed me in your direction and honestly I cant tell you how happy I am about it. Your videos are so motivating and seeing you do what you do best in a way that is easy to understand, entertaining, and honestly inspirational is something special.
Really appreciate that, Casey! Glad to hear that that I can be some inspiration. I have been inspired by so many people over the years, that it is always great to hear when I have returned the favor.
Perfect timing. I'm new to woodworking and need to put a straight edge on some shelves in order to glue them up and have watched so many videos on how to do it with a table saw but this is by far the clearest and easiest idea.
I think most of the newbs like myself can really appreciate the tips and tricks for techniques like this. Especially the people that don’t have jointers at all, like myself. Keep the videos coming!
Great video, question I need to make a table top 7 ft by 47 inches it’s for outside. Can you recommend a quick an easy way for someone with limited tools. Thanks
Praying you answer because I NEED to know what your MDF "jig" looking thing is that you use on your planer? I have 8/4, 8ft maple lumber with an unfortunate twist (i always have this problem though) and need to flatten it for an eventual cutting board... I bought an 8ft MDF board and tried to super glue and it was a disaster! Is this a solution I can use? What are you doing with that board, and how does it work, and does it work on boards with twists? Does anyone know what that is? (@ 1:58 into video) Thanks to all that can help!
Unfortunately, that is just a piece of melamine to extend the bed of my planer. There are a few techniques to get twist out of boards using a planer, and it sounds like you were on the right track with the MDF and super glue. I do that occasionally with shims, but always use hot glue instead of super glue. If you are making a cutting board, I imagine your 8 foot lumber is going to be cut up into smaller pieces, so maybe do the milling in smaller chunks? Hope that helps!
Wow...this technique surprises me, it’s different than other jig setups. I wouldn’t think that just using a a long straight edge against a concave edge would give you that good of results. I mean your fence is a straight edge. I have to try this and quit pulling my hair out with that freaking jointer. Thanks Shaun.
This is a brilliant idea dude! I have shied away from doing larger (longer) projects because my jointer is WAY too small to get a proper edge. This is a game changer! THANK YOU!
Rad, Shaun. I have jointed boards by clamping them on top of a flat piece but i wouldn't have been smart enough to figure out how to do it this way. I dug this video and would be stoked to see more like it.
my guy thank you for that simple jointing technique. Spent an hour digging around here for something like this that didnt push me beyond my limited $kill set.
Hi, I would like to build a floating desk roughly 10'5"x27" and I'm looking to use pine I don't wanna use center supports to the ground and the desk is going from one wall to the next what thickness pine should I use would 1x6s be enough or should I do 2x6s or should I be thinking of a different wood species I would like to keep cost down but I also don't want it to collapse lol. I would also be using this jointing method. Any help would be appreciated.
Hey Shaun, let me just share my obsession. JIGS. I am addicted to jigs! I cant stop watching people building jigs to do things you would normally use expensive machines for. Probably 60% of all my equipment are jigs! I hope I get to see jigs from you as well!
Definitely! Jigs are a fantastic way to get things done. I do use my fair share, but mine tend to be the "quick and dirty" type. But whatever gets the job done!
Love the new small vids! I take it the face of boards were flat to send through the planer? Sorry still learning and the little I know is that one side needs to be flat to get the best results our of a planer?
Thanks, Sam! Glad you enjoyed it. These boards were flat enough to send through the planer. You are right that you need one side relatively flat to get a decent surface planed onto the other side. With thinner boards like these, all I'm really looking for is for both faces to be parallel and even thickness along the length of the board. Hope that makes sense.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
I like it. I always wonder if this are fit for a monitor arm (with a "C-Clamp" underneath), since all of the load will go to the furthermost plank, its only around 9-12 kilos, but still...
Love the way you deal with(not having the right tools for the job) ,but always finding and alternative. I find your videos very relaxing,and educational. Keep it on
muy didáctico! mi hermana esta empezando con la carpintería en su garaje (en Miami) hoy hable con ella y le dije que te siga, si saber que habías publicado este tutorial... ideal para los principiantes y muy inspirador. Saludos desde Argentina
‘Thumbs up for that!’. I agree. Nice video. Music was a touch loud, but I liked seeing you joint a board without a jointer. Very interesting way of doing it. Thanks.
How do you secure the MDF on the base of the planer to feed the wood through? I would think it would just slide through with the wood if not secured somehow. Thanks.
It just has a small piece of wood screwed into the bottom on the infeed side that catches the planer bed so that it doesn't slide through. Thanks for watching!
I really want to make a whitewashed pine I think harvest table so I think I may be able to get my building centre near me to cut and place the holes etc. Then I just need to find legs. Or make them lol unsure at this point.
Nice and clear. One question though. Did you bought the boards already flattened because you’d skip face jointing and planed the boards instead of jointing.
Thanks for watching! Because I don't have a big jointer, I spend extra time picking out lumber that is as straight as I can find. Also, when I make something like a big table top, I usually use thinner material (~1" thick) and can orient the boards so that when I glue them up and use dominos, any bow in a board can be more or less cancelled out by the boards it is being joined to. Hopefully that makes sense!
Thank you! A domino machine is a very useful tool to cut loose mortise and tenon joints. It has been one of the most valuable tools I have purchased for my business.
The method to joint boards without a jointer is sweet. I am terrified of my jointer so I might just use this method going forward. I would probably add a replaceable hook on the end of the reference sled.
Yeah this is a great idea. Learning your techniques is super useful to beginners, and these short videos help do that really well. The commentary on your decision making process is super helpful as well.
Is it fairly easy/ safe to manage sliding the work piece and the mdf together? Would using a feather board or some blue tape be helpful at all to keep them together snugly?
It takes a little getting used to, but it is pretty easy once you get the feel for it. A feather board could help, but might not be much use if you have a board with a lot of variation along the edge. Obviously only do this if you are very comfortable with a table saw, or maybe try it with a smaller piece first to see how it feels. Thanks for watching!
Quick question. What's the purpose of using the piece of MDF when you ripped the first board? Wouldn't using the fence accomplish the same thing in getting a straight edge (similar to how you ripped the other side of the first board?)
The MDF acts as the straight edge riding along the fence. If your board has a bow in it, it will ride along the fence and essentially transfer that bow to the cut side.
Great video. I do the same but with a long level. Ever have any concerns about not somehow adhering the wood to the MDF? Not permanent, more like tape, just to keep everything sliding together? Also, should you alternate sides of the cut wood in case the TS blade has a slight angle (there will be some no matter how small).
Thanks for watching! I have done it enough times where I don't worry about it not being adhered to the MDF, but that would definitely help add a little extra security. And yes, I am actually making a video right now about alternating the cut orientation on each board to cancel out any variation in blade angle (or jointer fence angle).
You make it look easy. I have a smaller job site saw and I don't think I could keep the boards straight as they go thru. I need 9' boards and can't come up with a way to do it yet. Just tried making a long fence on my out-feed table and spun my saw around to make it an in-feed. Still couldn't get a straight line.
Do you think using a circular saw and a Kreg Rip-Cut would work well enough? Getting into woodworking and trying to decide what accessories to buy now!
Hey Shaun, what is the best way to get a solid, flat, level work surface for building a table top? Last one I built I struggled so much to get a flat surface to build on. Will investing in some 4 ft. Bessey H-Style 3/4" Pipe Clamps help with that?
Yeah, having a flat work surface definitely helps to make your work more accurate. A torsion box style work table is a great way to get a flat, and very solid surface. But even without a perfectly flat work table (mine isn't) you can still get flat table tops by using things like clamping cauls across the width of the table, and being careful to apply even clamping pressure from both sides of the table top. Hopefully that helps!
Not in this case. I always take care to find the straightest boards I can, then orient them in a way that when they are doweled and glued together, any bow is more or less canceled out by the adjacent boards.
Just wanted to know did you flatten the board on one side before planing? Or is that not a thing for longer thin boards? Meaning like in your most resent video fattening on a jointer trick. Thanks
Yeah, with long and fairly thin material like this, I often skip face jointing them. Once they are all glued up and attached to a table base, it isn't a problem. I also take my time to select the straightest boards I can at the lumberyard.
I assumed that was the case. Can I ask what’s your limit on this. Like anything over 6/4 needs to be faced planned? Thanks sorry for follow up. Thanks for help
@@brianstephenson2157 Yeah, definitely with thicker material it becomes more important. It also has a lot to do with the application. If it is a big table top that is being attached to a big table base, you can probably get away with it. But if you are making a solid wood cabinet or shelves or something, you might be using 4/4 material, but you want those to be as flat as possible. So face jointing before planing is probably the way to go. Hope that helps!
Because I don't have a big jointer, I spend extra time picking out lumber that is as straight as I can find. Also, when I make something like a big table top, I usually use thinner material (~1" thick) and can orient the boards so that when I glue them up and use dominos, any bow in a board can be more or less cancelled out by the boards it is being joined to. Hopefully that makes sense!
No, but I am careful to select straight lumber when I can. Also board orientation and using something like dominos or dowels will help eliminate any bow in the boards during the glue-up.
Thanks, Mark! I definitely take my time to select the flattest boards I can find at my lumber supplier. I also make sure to orient my boards before the glue up, so that any bow in a particular board is flattened out by the other boards. I'm almost always able to end up with a very flat table top.
Shaun Boyd I had the same question. I guess you jointed the sides but not the surfaces. Do you have a hack for jointing large surfaces without a jointer?
Fence builder! lol. very cool content! Great idea! How do you stabilize the curved board from wandering? Or is that something you just try to be very careful to avoid?
I wish i had viewed your video last week when i was trying to joint pieces on my table saw, that would've saved me a hell of a lot of trouble. Thanks anyway, will use that in the future!
Would you recommend a portable table saw for doing something like this? A portable saw fits my space and budget much better but I do not know if I will be able to rip long boards perfectly straight.
It definitely wouldn't be as easy, but it is doable. Maybe try it with some shorter boards first to see how comfortable you are with it. An outfeed table will also help a lot.
Nice video Shaun! Good mix of easy to follow instructions and imagery, good to have abit of music in the background to spice it up abit! Keep them comin!
Appreciate you and your content! Been watching a lot of videos on jointing and this one was the most helpful! Making a table top for the first time 😬… curious if you have an suggestions for a table saw blade that you like and how you would tackle making long cuts on a table saw (8-10 ft) with out a long work bench? 😬 any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Did you face joint prior to cutting the straight edges on the table saw. It looked like you took them straight to the planer but I didnt see a sled or anything...
Not for these. with long, fairly thin boards, you could potentially lose a lot of thickness when face jointing. Instead, I take my time to select the straightest boards possible at the lumber yard, then orient them in a way that any bow will be more or less canceled out during the glue up.
Thanks Shaun, I like the short videos explaining how you do things, BTW, if you start on the planer, how do you know you are flat enough on one side? Do you just hand plane afterwards?
Thanks, Dan! Glad you are enjoying them! For a big table top like this, I make sure to select the straightest boards I can find, and once everything is glued up and attached to the base, any bow is pretty much eliminated.
Thanks Shaun, I am totally binge watching your videos, I enjoy your technique and humor. Keep up the great work. You now are my go to first watch site.......... Refreshingly great content, great minimal commentary, great not drawn out blah blah blah of both......
Really helps to have a big table like that... I am really struggling flattening a tabletop I am making for a personal project. It's hard getting a level, flat surface for a reference. I have been trying to use saw horses and a router to smooth it over, as well as laying my sled on 2 timbers that are almost at the same height as the tabletop. It's still got a long way to go. I think maybe I just don't have the equipment or work space to make it look professional.
Great idea. Enjoying your build videos immensely, and these will be great additions too. I’ve always wondered why people don’t use a ‘rip sled’, similar to a tapering jig/sled but for straightedging instead of using a jointer. Your vid shows a much simpler way of achieving same thing.
Sorry if the music is mixed too loud in this video. It sounds fine coming out of my speakers, but I know different speaker systems can make the levels sound different, so I have tried to decrease the music volume more in my newer videos. Go check those out for better sound mixing/more fun woodworking content! Thanks for watching!
Shaun Boyd you could probably get rid of it altogether.
Shaun Boyd Does wood work pay?? Since I am a beginner kindly advise
@@arthurkariuki3018 depends on the area you live in. if you can make stuff using reclaimed wood you would do good in hipster areas like Portland and such
Thomas Anderson Agreed. It’s just in the way. You don’t need it. Ask Matthias Wandel and Paul Sellars. Your content is interesting, but the music makes it unwatchable for me. Best of luck with the channel.
Quiet music is not bad for short clips, but loud music is normally reserved for montages and transitions. Try wearing a headset to review your final edit.
You helped this gal out with your most excellent suggestion of edge jointing using a longer known straight board against which to reference through your tablesaw. Using a planer jointing jig and wedges to get flat top, quickly flipping it to make it parallel and your method of straight lining one edge, I had a lovely piece of dimensioned walnut in about 15 minutes. Far out! Thanks so much!
That's awesome! Glad it helped you out, that's what it is all about!
So this came up in my feed without me looking for it. Totally what I needed at just the right time. I'm in the process of making 2 large tables with boards that will really exceed the capacity of my jointer. Even having been doing this most of my adult life (as a hobby), I'm still amazed as to how simple yet genius things like this are. Thank you sir! Keep em coming.
Right on! Yeah, it is a great trick to have in your pocket. Thanks for watching!
I must say this video is AWSOME!!, just love the way you explain, simple not too much blah blah and not showing the "how to do". Also the angle of how you place so that one can see, it's simply great! True, the music is a little loud, but overall the music is very nice. Please keep up your videos!! Thank you for sharing Shaun!!
Seriously Shaun, Chris Salomone pointed me in your direction and honestly I cant tell you how happy I am about it. Your videos are so motivating and seeing you do what you do best in a way that is easy to understand, entertaining, and honestly inspirational is something special.
Really appreciate that, Casey! Glad to hear that that I can be some inspiration. I have been inspired by so many people over the years, that it is always great to hear when I have returned the favor.
Perfect timing. I'm new to woodworking and need to put a straight edge on some shelves in order to glue them up and have watched so many videos on how to do it with a table saw but this is by far the clearest and easiest idea.
Awesome, glad you got something out of it! Thanks for watching.
I think most of the newbs like myself can really appreciate the tips and tricks for techniques like this. Especially the people that don’t have jointers at all, like myself. Keep the videos coming!
Awesome, that is good to hear! Thanks for watching!
Fascinating to see how you've gained RUclips experience since then. I'd only seen your more recent videos until this popped up
I'd like to start this as a hobby by making one table. Can you give some advice on the tools I will need to own?
Right on, Shaun! I am a little disappointed that you didn't lie down on the tabletop but I'll get over it.
Thanks, man! I didn't want to take a clamp to the back. I'll wait until this one is finished!
Hi. Great video. I would like to know if you can share the final project- table top with base finished. Thanks
Great video, question I need to make a table top 7 ft by 47 inches it’s for outside. Can you recommend a quick an easy way for someone with limited tools. Thanks
When do you use a domino vs biscuit? I have a long 12 foot bar top I want to make 2 inchesx18 inches x 12 feet. Not sure what wood or method.
Yo I made a tabletop yesterday and did everything you said to do and it came out great.you the man!!!
Praying you answer because I NEED to know what your MDF "jig" looking thing is that you use on your planer? I have 8/4, 8ft maple lumber with an unfortunate twist (i always have this problem though) and need to flatten it for an eventual cutting board... I bought an 8ft MDF board and tried to super glue and it was a disaster! Is this a solution I can use? What are you doing with that board, and how does it work, and does it work on boards with twists?
Does anyone know what that is? (@ 1:58 into video)
Thanks to all that can help!
Unfortunately, that is just a piece of melamine to extend the bed of my planer. There are a few techniques to get twist out of boards using a planer, and it sounds like you were on the right track with the MDF and super glue. I do that occasionally with shims, but always use hot glue instead of super glue. If you are making a cutting board, I imagine your 8 foot lumber is going to be cut up into smaller pieces, so maybe do the milling in smaller chunks? Hope that helps!
I'm glad I came across your channel via four eyes. I love this idea because I dont have a jointer (yet). This definitely helps me. Thank you.
Thanks for checking out my work!
Great stuff. Question though. When you run it through the planner how did you get the warps, twist, and bows out?
You can plane your lumber without jointing first? How do you end with dead flat surfaces? Do you just take light passes? I love your videos
I like the idea, a small detail, or new insight could be the big difference in anyone’s next project. Keep it coming.
Thanks, Anthony!
I love your videos. The little short tutorials in between your builds is a great idea! Super informative and helpful. Keep them coming.
That is great to hear! Glad you are enjoying them!
Wow...this technique surprises me, it’s different than other jig setups. I wouldn’t think that just using a a long straight edge against a concave edge would give you that good of results. I mean your fence is a straight edge. I have to try this and quit pulling my hair out with that freaking jointer. Thanks Shaun.
Thanks, Fred. I use this technique all the time, takes a bit of practice to get the feel for it, but I get great results.
Shaun Boyd , your seams looked better than any I’ve done, so I hope I can duplicate your technique.
This is a brilliant idea dude! I have shied away from doing larger (longer) projects because my jointer is WAY too small to get a proper edge. This is a game changer! THANK YOU!
Right on! Glad you got something from it, thanks for watching!
Rad, Shaun. I have jointed boards by clamping them on top of a flat piece but i wouldn't have been smart enough to figure out how to do it this way. I dug this video and would be stoked to see more like it.
Right on! Same concept, just even simpler, which is always my preferred method! Haha. Thanks for watching!
I was also wondering -- do you buy wood that is already surfaced on one side, or is it rough cut all the way around? thanks
Kind of depends on what my local lumber supplier has in stock, but I would say 80% of the time I buy stuff that is rough on all sides.
my guy thank you for that simple jointing technique. Spent an hour digging around here for something like this that didnt push me beyond my limited $kill set.
Hi, I would like to build a floating desk roughly 10'5"x27" and I'm looking to use pine I don't wanna use center supports to the ground and the desk is going from one wall to the next what thickness pine should I use would 1x6s be enough or should I do 2x6s or should I be thinking of a different wood species I would like to keep cost down but I also don't want it to collapse lol. I would also be using this jointing method. Any help would be appreciated.
I don’t have a jointer at all and joint all of my tops with the table saw using a similar method. I like your video editing style. Keep it up!
Thanks, man! It is a great way to get it done!
Great tip. Question; how necessary is it that the board stays tight against the mdf?
Taylor McCall just keep them touching and even but don’t he-man push them together but keep some force yes
Be sure to bring these types of videos back.
Hey Shaun, let me just share my obsession. JIGS. I am addicted to jigs! I cant stop watching people building jigs to do things you would normally use expensive machines for. Probably 60% of all my equipment are jigs! I hope I get to see jigs from you as well!
Definitely! Jigs are a fantastic way to get things done. I do use my fair share, but mine tend to be the "quick and dirty" type. But whatever gets the job done!
I like this. Sometimes it’s nice to see “how” you do things vs “what” you are doing. It’s very helpful!
Awesome, glad you like it! I agree seeing the "how" instead of just the "what" is always helpful.
More of this! I learn by seeing and doing after reading. I'm a very visual and hands on learner
Love the new small vids! I take it the face of boards were flat to send through the planer? Sorry still learning and the little I know is that one side needs to be flat to get the best results our of a planer?
Thanks, Sam! Glad you enjoyed it. These boards were flat enough to send through the planer. You are right that you need one side relatively flat to get a decent surface planed onto the other side. With thinner boards like these, all I'm really looking for is for both faces to be parallel and even thickness along the length of the board. Hope that makes sense.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
Sorry iam really new at this, the big brush planer that you use to make the wood flat is what, a big carpenter brush that make it totally flat? Thanks
Yeah, the planer basically makes the top face smooth and parallel to the bottom face of a board.
I like it. I always wonder if this are fit for a monitor arm (with a "C-Clamp" underneath), since all of the load will go to the furthermost plank, its only around 9-12 kilos, but still...
I'll watch whatever you post.
It's always interesting to me.
Subbed. Like the different widths of the boards making the table top. Adds a certain aesthetic to the table.
Really appreciate it! I agree, I have always liked table tops that don't have perfectly consistent board widths. Feels a little more organic.
That tip to use MDF for alignment is genius , thank you for sharing.
Enjoy the simple training in this style. Voice over was great and informative.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it, Jessie!
How tall is the ceiling in your shop
Around 11 feet or so.
Love the way you deal with(not having the right tools for the job) ,but always finding and alternative.
I find your videos very relaxing,and educational.
Keep it on
Thanks, Alberto! It is always fun trying to come up with solutions.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the video but what is that bit of kit you have for drilling the holes for the dowels?
That is a Festool Domino. Great tool!
Shaun Boyd thank you for the quick response
Awesome tip Shaun. I’m struggling pull the trigger on a jointer so this tip is awesome. Cheers buddy.
That is great, this is definitely a useful trick to have up your sleeve!
muy didáctico! mi hermana esta empezando con la carpintería en su garaje (en Miami) hoy hable con ella y le dije que te siga, si saber que habías publicado este tutorial... ideal para los principiantes y muy inspirador. Saludos desde Argentina
Muchas gracias! Buena suerte a tu hermana en su carpintería.
Great build...
Can I ask what was the thickness of the rough timber and what was the thickness of the glue board after final sanding ?
I don't remember exactly, but I think it was probably 5/4 rough lumber, and finished was probably around 1" thick.
‘Thumbs up for that!’.
I agree. Nice video. Music was a touch loud, but I liked seeing you joint a board without a jointer. Very interesting way of doing it. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
If I were to make a table top of a smaller scale. Would I still need to domino/dowel/biscuit the boards together, or would glue be sufficient?
Glue is plenty strong for joints like this. The dominos/dowels/biscuits are mostly just to help with alignment when gluing everything together.
How do you secure the MDF on the base of the planer to feed the wood through? I would think it would just slide through with the wood if not secured somehow. Thanks.
It just has a small piece of wood screwed into the bottom on the infeed side that catches the planer bed so that it doesn't slide through. Thanks for watching!
I really want to make a whitewashed pine I think harvest table so I think I may be able to get my building centre near me to cut and place the holes etc. Then I just need to find legs. Or make them lol unsure at this point.
How are you making sure boards are flat? Planner will make boards parallel to each other but not necessarily flat unless you have flat reference face.
First time viewing your page and definitely subscribing to see more content !!
Nice and clear. One question though. Did you bought the boards already flattened because you’d skip face jointing and planed the boards instead of jointing.
Thanks for watching! Because I don't have a big jointer, I spend extra time picking out lumber that is as straight as I can find. Also, when I make something like a big table top, I usually use thinner material (~1" thick) and can orient the boards so that when I glue them up and use dominos, any bow in a board can be more or less cancelled out by the boards it is being joined to. Hopefully that makes sense!
awesome job, Shaun. I do not know what a domino is in woodworking, but I will do some digging.
Thank you! A domino machine is a very useful tool to cut loose mortise and tenon joints. It has been one of the most valuable tools I have purchased for my business.
The method to joint boards without a jointer is sweet. I am terrified of my jointer so I might just use this method going forward. I would probably add a replaceable hook on the end of the reference sled.
Yeah, it is a great technique. Adding a replaceable hook on the end is a great idea, too.
liked and subscribed. great little trick to get a straight edge there. will definitely use that too.
Right on! Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah this is a great idea. Learning your techniques is super useful to beginners, and these short videos help do that really well. The commentary on your decision making process is super helpful as well.
Awesome, glad it is helpful! Thanks for watching, Alex!
Is it fairly easy/ safe to manage sliding the work piece and the mdf together? Would using a feather board or some blue tape be helpful at all to keep them together snugly?
It takes a little getting used to, but it is pretty easy once you get the feel for it. A feather board could help, but might not be much use if you have a board with a lot of variation along the edge. Obviously only do this if you are very comfortable with a table saw, or maybe try it with a smaller piece first to see how it feels. Thanks for watching!
Quick question. What's the purpose of using the piece of MDF when you ripped the first board? Wouldn't using the fence accomplish the same thing in getting a straight edge (similar to how you ripped the other side of the first board?)
The MDF acts as the straight edge riding along the fence. If your board has a bow in it, it will ride along the fence and essentially transfer that bow to the cut side.
Great tutorial and really cool technique, thanks for sharing
I like the short and to the point videos, nice work. I too use the table saw instead of a joiner.
Thanks, really appreciate it!
Thx for this. Always looking for the best way to do things like this, without having the tools I think I "need".
Totally! It is all about making it work with the tools you have. Glad it helped, man!
Great video. I do the same but with a long level. Ever have any concerns about not somehow adhering the wood to the MDF? Not permanent, more like tape, just to keep everything sliding together? Also, should you alternate sides of the cut wood in case the TS blade has a slight angle (there will be some no matter how small).
Thanks for watching! I have done it enough times where I don't worry about it not being adhered to the MDF, but that would definitely help add a little extra security. And yes, I am actually making a video right now about alternating the cut orientation on each board to cancel out any variation in blade angle (or jointer fence angle).
your videos are great! keep uploading videos and more power!
Really appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
nice video..
You make it look easy. I have a smaller job site saw and I don't think I could keep the boards straight as they go thru. I need 9' boards and can't come up with a way to do it yet. Just tried making a long fence on my out-feed table and spun my saw around to make it an in-feed. Still couldn't get a straight line.
Yeah, definitely trying to do this on a small saw would be difficult. Having the extra table size and stability is pretty crucial.
Man am I glad you made this video. Worked great on 1.5" X 7" oak boards. Thanks so much for sharing your idea, it saved my day!
Awesome, man! Glad you were able to put it to use. Thanks for watching!
Shaun, thank you for sharing your time, videos and experiences with us. Keep up the great work.
Really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
How do you flatten the board in the plainer by just run them through?
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed!!!
Is it okay to bolt two 2by4 timbers side by side edges? It seems that nobody is doing it.
What type of blade did you used or which would you recommend as for the amount of teeth? thanks
I have a 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II that is in my table saw about 90% of the time.
@@shaunboydmadethis thanks man!!
Do you think using a circular saw and a Kreg Rip-Cut would work well enough? Getting into woodworking and trying to decide what accessories to buy now!
I’ve never used any of the Kreg stuff, but any sort of track saw or even a homemade track and circular saw would work just as well.
@@shaunboydmadethis Awesome, thanks! I only have a circular saw for now, but a rip guide is probably one of the first things I'm going to make!
Audio is just fine. Love the nitty gritty. Makes for an awesome classroom. Thanks.
Really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
great demo on table saw jointing, i have found my new technique! thanks
Right on, glad you got something out of it!
Hey Shaun, what is the best way to get a solid, flat, level work surface for building a table top? Last one I built I struggled so much to get a flat surface to build on. Will investing in some 4 ft. Bessey H-Style 3/4" Pipe Clamps help with that?
Yeah, having a flat work surface definitely helps to make your work more accurate. A torsion box style work table is a great way to get a flat, and very solid surface. But even without a perfectly flat work table (mine isn't) you can still get flat table tops by using things like clamping cauls across the width of the table, and being careful to apply even clamping pressure from both sides of the table top. Hopefully that helps!
It seems like you took the roughy boards and ran them directly through the thickness planer. Did you not run them through the jointer first?
Not in this case. I always take care to find the straightest boards I can, then orient them in a way that when they are doweled and glued together, any bow is more or less canceled out by the adjacent boards.
That was very simple and nifty, and a principle that is applicable to so many uses. Thank you
Great! Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Oh, man, yes! This is great. Seeing your method is great, but hearing you explain it adds a lot for me.
Thanks, Dorian! Glad you enjoyed it!
Does the MDF board need to be that wide or could it be smaller as long as it's still 10'??
No, it can be thinner. The only thing is the thinner it is, the less rigid it is. So you could potentially flex it and not get a straight cut.
Just wanted to know did you flatten the board on one side before planing? Or is that not a thing for longer thin boards? Meaning like in your most resent video fattening on a jointer trick. Thanks
Yeah, with long and fairly thin material like this, I often skip face jointing them. Once they are all glued up and attached to a table base, it isn't a problem. I also take my time to select the straightest boards I can at the lumberyard.
I assumed that was the case. Can I ask what’s your limit on this. Like anything over 6/4 needs to be faced planned? Thanks sorry for follow up. Thanks for help
@@brianstephenson2157 Yeah, definitely with thicker material it becomes more important. It also has a lot to do with the application. If it is a big table top that is being attached to a big table base, you can probably get away with it. But if you are making a solid wood cabinet or shelves or something, you might be using 4/4 material, but you want those to be as flat as possible. So face jointing before planing is probably the way to go. Hope that helps!
how did you get one side of the board flat as a reference surface for the planer?
Because I don't have a big jointer, I spend extra time picking out lumber that is as straight as I can find. Also, when I make something like a big table top, I usually use thinner material (~1" thick) and can orient the boards so that when I glue them up and use dominos, any bow in a board can be more or less cancelled out by the boards it is being joined to. Hopefully that makes sense!
Was the material already face jointed since you started on the planer?
No, but I am careful to select straight lumber when I can. Also board orientation and using something like dominos or dowels will help eliminate any bow in the boards during the glue-up.
Hi Shaun,
thanks for the tip.
But how do you make sure the boards are flat? The planer does not do that job.
Cheers Mark
Thanks, Mark! I definitely take my time to select the flattest boards I can find at my lumber supplier. I also make sure to orient my boards before the glue up, so that any bow in a particular board is flattened out by the other boards. I'm almost always able to end up with a very flat table top.
Shaun Boyd I had the same question. I guess you jointed the sides but not the surfaces. Do you have a hack for jointing large surfaces without a jointer?
Fence builder! lol. very cool content! Great idea! How do you stabilize the curved board from wandering? Or is that something you just try to be very careful to avoid?
Thanks! Yep, just have to be careful to keep pressure on it and everything against the fence. Featherboards would help, as well.
What are those clamps called? Have a hard time looking for those
The red ones? They are Bessey K body (parallel) clamps.
I wish i had viewed your video last week when i was trying to joint pieces on my table saw, that would've saved me a hell of a lot of trouble. Thanks anyway, will use that in the future!
Haha, bummer! Hopefully you can use it on something soon! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this. One of the simplest jointing videos I've found. Well explained and demonstrated. Again, thanks.
Awesome, glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Subscribed just because of your closing tagline :) Nice work.
Haha, thanks! I'll keep working on that tagline.
Would you recommend a portable table saw for doing something like this? A portable saw fits my space and budget much better but I do not know if I will be able to rip long boards perfectly straight.
It definitely wouldn't be as easy, but it is doable. Maybe try it with some shorter boards first to see how comfortable you are with it. An outfeed table will also help a lot.
short videos explaining different techniques was a great idea. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Thanks, David! Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video Shaun! Good mix of easy to follow instructions and imagery, good to have abit of music in the background to spice it up abit! Keep them comin!
Thanks, Jack! Glad you enjoyed it!
Appreciate you and your content! Been watching a lot of videos on jointing and this one was the most helpful! Making a table top for the first time 😬… curious if you have an suggestions for a table saw blade that you like and how you would tackle making long cuts on a table saw (8-10 ft) with out a long work bench? 😬 any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Damn, I LOVE your camera angle variety!!!
Did you face joint prior to cutting the straight edges on the table saw. It looked like you took them straight to the planer but I didnt see a sled or anything...
Not for these. with long, fairly thin boards, you could potentially lose a lot of thickness when face jointing. Instead, I take my time to select the straightest boards possible at the lumber yard, then orient them in a way that any bow will be more or less canceled out during the glue up.
Thanks Shaun, I like the short videos explaining how you do things, BTW, if you start on the planer, how do you know you are flat enough on one side? Do you just hand plane afterwards?
Thanks, Dan! Glad you are enjoying them! For a big table top like this, I make sure to select the straightest boards I can find, and once everything is glued up and attached to the base, any bow is pretty much eliminated.
Thanks Shaun, I am totally binge watching your videos, I enjoy your technique and humor. Keep up the great work. You now are my go to first watch site.......... Refreshingly great content, great minimal commentary, great not drawn out blah blah blah of both......
Your idea does not suck! I think it’s great and look forward to future videos.
Thank you!
Great video. Been trying to joint a bunch of 10 ft boards with my friends jointer, then flush trim, no luck. Will try this next
New subscriber...great tip with the mdf board as a guide. I'll be using that for sure. Thanks bud.
Right on! Thanks for watching!
Really helps to have a big table like that... I am really struggling flattening a tabletop I am making for a personal project. It's hard getting a level, flat surface for a reference. I have been trying to use saw horses and a router to smooth it over, as well as laying my sled on 2 timbers that are almost at the same height as the tabletop. It's still got a long way to go. I think maybe I just don't have the equipment or work space to make it look professional.
Great idea. Enjoying your build videos immensely, and these will be great additions too.
I’ve always wondered why people don’t use a ‘rip sled’, similar to a tapering jig/sled but for straightedging instead of using a jointer.
Your vid shows a much simpler way of achieving same thing.
Thanks, Andrew! You are totally right, essentially the same technique, just even more simplified.
Great video! I've jointed boards using my track saw.
Yeah, that is a great way to do it, as well! Thanks for watching!
Great tip! I have a 6” jointer that I use, but like you said, when jointing long boards, it can be an issue. Thanks
Glad you got something out of it! Thanks for watching!