I’ve been woodworking for over 45 years now and have gradually expanded into a very nice workshop. I have a large bandsaw - rated trade - but the principles are the same - do buy quality blades. Companies like Tuff Saws offer a range of qualities their blades. If you are an occasional user in small softwood, you could get away with the lesser quality. If you are daily user cutting large pieces of hardwood, then get the best.they may cost more but you more than save on waste - and frustration. - one blade does not do everything. At extremes, the blade to cut small radius circles is not the blade to resaw 15cm high oak - and vice versa. I have to have several blades and change them regularly according to the job. Again, if you only do one thing, then maybe one blade will do. - set the guides properly. Mine are roller bearing guides but the principles are the same. Set them so that there is about 0.5mm to 1mm gap from guide to blade. They must not touch - set the tension. For my machine (again a large one) I look for the movement in the blade. I want no more than 6mm movement if I push the blade with my finger half way down the gap between top guides and table when fully opened. Too little tension and too much tension both equal trouble. - speed of cut. The harder the wood; the great the depth of cut both influence speed. Too fast is much worse than too slow but incredibly slow can burn - accuracy. If I want to cut shop veneers of, let’s say, 20cm x 1.5mm from hardwood, I would be very lucky indeed if I got decent cuts just be using the machine fence (or an auxiliary higher fence that supports the whole height of the wood). I no longer take the gamble. The explanation of what I do is explained very well in a recent video from EN Curtis on YT. - like almost everything, practice makes easier. Changing the blade first time is difficult; do it almost daily and you really find it no issue. - the bandsaw or the table saw do not make finished cuts. If you want the highest quality finish, you would plane the cut surface smooth. For my veneers, I either put them through my planer (on a sled as the veneers are so thin) or through the wide belt sander. Doing that by hand is entirely possible but takes practice - and a sharp plane (that’s another learning curve). Happy to answer anything if what I have written is not clear
I’ve got the Aldi Ferrex 10” bandsaw but it’s near identical and probably came from the same factory as the Screwfix, Axminster, Scheppach and all the other similar budget bandsaws. My bandsaw has cam wheel guides which are quite fiddly to setup. +1 from me for tuffsaw blades. I replaced the supplied one with a tuffsaw blade and was very pleased with it. I used the bandsaw extensively when cutting polystyrene insulation panels for my workshop and it was excellent at that. I do think the blade is starting to wander again so time for a new blade ….
Thanks for the suggestion, I tried it, but still wandering even on moderate thickness wood. When I had a new blade on it, it was perfect so I’ll get another blade. I suspect the polystyrene even though easy to cut has blunted it as its basically cutting plastic
Thankyou - great video - straight to all the relevant bits & very concise. I was wondering whether I needed one and wanted something not too expensive but still usable (cheap not always wise). So I'll buy the Titan & switch the blade. Thanks again for all the good tips.
Hello, I have very similar bandsaw as you, my factory bandsaw blade broke after a month of use ( I use it about 3-4 times a week) I ordered some better quality blades. It is very weird that it did NOT crack at the weld. I had the bandsaw set up same as you according to user manual. Do you think it was caused buy low quality blade or am I doing something wrong? Thank you
What kind of paint have you used for the log cabin on your background ?is it a clear one ? Or it’s a stain? I really like it and would like to have the same result on mine ! Thanks
I had to pull the tin out of my shed to check. It's Protek Royal Exterior - Golden Oak. It's water based and I found two coats was plenty. It's been on 3 years and still looking good, althought likley due a fresh coat soon.
Fantastic video. I needed to replace a band saw blade and I haven't done it since high school. This video killed two birds with one stone cuz now I know what blade I'm buying too. Cheers
Joe - another cracking video - just seen your recent Evolution Track Guide as well - have you thought of doing a video to compare the options of some combinations (2 or 3) of table saw + circular saw + band saw + track saw - maybe add in a mitre saw there as well. We clearly don’t need them all but what would be the best combination for someone that wants quality products, quality cutting, flexibility and willing to trade off a bit of speed for flexiblity and price. Also as a slight variant on that question - but also of interest - which of these saws produces the least dust and/or is easier to reduce dust with a dust extractor - and then which dust extractor - that’s a whole new topic in itself……
I treated myself to a Metabo bandsaw and can cut up to about 8 inches depth. I have always suffered from blade drift however the set-up and consequently have wasted many pieces of wood. Using the fence just made it worse! I've mostly avoided doing those types of cut because of waste (and frustration). After watching this I will try a different blade. Thanx for your info.
Thanks for the video.....I have a similar type of saw but the power seems down but its so close so.....maybe its the pants blades Ive got (it was all secondhand) your video was helpful and thanks for the link.....think I will invest in some new blades before a new saw!!
If you lower the distance to a minimum between the wood and the blade guides, that helps to lower the extent of the drift of the blade as well. What is the actual difference between such blades other than „quality“ : type/hardness of steel ???
I have a Scheppach and replaced blade with Axminster ones, made a big difference but best results are when, as suggested, blade guide is dropped right down as near to the cut piece as possible.
The teeth per inch are different, the one I tested in this video had more. Also, the quality of the steel used, you can tell just holding it that the Tuffsaw blades are made of tougher stuff. I want to reiterate that I'm not sponsored or affliated with TuffSaw, just really like their stuff!
I have an old Ryobi band saw, drifts crazy hard. I replaced the blade with a Bosch one and dialed the rollers and such how YT tutorials told me too and the result... still drifts like crazy, I think maybe now I can say it's the saw and not the blade?
Quick question. I noticed the before you were cutting to the outside of the timber and the after you were cutting the inside/fence side of the timber. Would this make a difference? Thanks
I have used both blades a fair bit now and can tell you that the factory blade with this saw is just bad, doesn’t matter what side you’re cutting the wood ect. I’m so glad I upgraded its changed the saw for me.
You don’t have to lower the tension on the blade after you release the tension lever. The point is to release the tension so you can remove the blade without losing your adjustment of the tension. If you’re using a different width blade, you have to make a number of adjustments which weren’t mentioned here. All the guides need to be adjusted for the width of the blade. The tension has to be tuned after to put the tension back with the lever. He might have gone through all of that in another video, but many come without seeing the older videos, so they need to know all of this.
hey, great video, lots of good information. I see you are running your bandsaw outside. How do you manage that? With an extension cord? Is it safe to do so? Interested as a woodworker. Cheers
Hey, I typically just move my stuff outside for when I’m filming because the lighting is much better. In my new workshop I’ll almost exclusively use this outside. When I am outside I just use an extension lead. 👍
I've done construction/trim/woodworking for a few decades now and I tell everyone, it doesn't matter what kind of saw it is, first thing you do is change the blade out. The factory blades are almost always weak, so it's just easier to do so.
I have a small bandsaw that uses a 72" blade and I replaced the factory one with a 1/4" and was a nice surprise but will not last that long after a few hard maple cuts. The problem was the price $60.
I have the Aldi Ferrex Bandsaw, and apart from a couple of differences- I rekon it was made in the same factory- now then re the blades- I phoned a blade company that specialises in bandsaw blades and was advised on a 14/6 tpi bi metal blade at ... £32 AND THEY WILL ONLY SELL minimum order of two blades- so I bought a 14/6 tpi bi metal for £15 off amazon and it was... crap. so now I will try your recomendation as I am really P1553d off so far with the results I have.- I''ll let you know my results-btw liked, subscribed and rung the bell for you!
Not trying to be funny, but I as a little puzzled about the comment about putting in the blade with the teeth pointing down. Unless they are pointing towards the back of the saw, how would you make them point up?
When you uncoil your blade, it is possible to get the blade's teeth going the wrong way. If so, you need to twist the blade inside out, for lack of a better description, so the teeth are oriented correctly. @sumeraybuilds was correct to mention this.
@@corwind3888 I do not hope that my question suggested that @sumeraybuilds was wrong mentioning this, I just did not know how it would be possible, but now I do. Thank you, I never though of this and I guess it is pure luck that I have never seen it.
As a pen maker I do a lot of re sawing. Benchtop Skil 9", 59 1/2" blade, 3 1/2" capacity so definitely not a high end machine. Though the saw is rated up to a 3/8" blade I run a 1/2" 6 tpi metal blade. They are around $14 US. The width allows more blade for the guides and these are stiff blades. I would never use a 1/4" for re sawing. In the video you can see the cut wander a little. Just my 2 cents nice video though.
Thanks for the tips! I agree I would never go back to a 1/4" blade now! I was hoping to highlight the benefit of swapping the blade out can have, especially to newer woodworkers/ hobbyists. I do like the look of the SKIL stuff, unfortunatly most of their products are not available in the UK right now 😔
You really don't want the model I have.lol. I even think it is discontinued due to it is a piece of junk but it works. Any new blade works well at first and changing out the factory blade is a good idea. My comment was about re sawing which is what you were showing. A wider/stiffer blade works well for me. A metal blade is a twofer also as the pens use a brass tube so custom lengths can be achieved. It was still a good video@@sumeraybuilds
I agree that a good blade is key, but alignment is parimount. Once the blade is changed, it might track slightly different on the rubber wheels. If so, the guide blocks and rear bearing may need to be adjusted. Also, the fence might be in need of adjustment for the new cut line of the blade. Nothing is set perfect on a bandsaw like it would be when you change blades on a table saw.
I kept the cheap and nasty blade that came with my Record bandsaw for cutting cheap and nasty stuff like plastics and thin aluminium so that I don't spoil my nice new replacement wood blades.
Just remember the improvement is great but does not stay so good as the blade blunts and after you have cut a curve. The blade will then not follow the fence. Better to have a circular saw in addition and often use the bandsaw without the fence, freehand
Keep some blades for straight cuts only and other for curves.. as soon as you start using your posh new blade for curves is is capacity for nice straight cuts will diminish...
Helpful vid, thanks. From a viewer's perspective, you say "you're going to want to" or "you're gonna wanna" a lot. It's an annoying phrase that has snuck into the language in recent years. As a budding content creator, your use of it isn't excessive, but some RUclipsrs use it so much that their content becomes unwatchable. Instead of "you're going to want to pull this lever", consider "you should pull this lever" or "next, pull this lever" ... anything that gets rid of "you're going to want to .." which sounds clumsy, especially when it's said over and over. Otherwise, great video. Please keep 'em coming.
There is a view that ònce you change a blade do not use a fence. Each time you do you are putting more stress on one side of the blade making it less sharp than the other side causing drift. Learn to cut strait without and finish with other tools, even with a quality blade it will start drifting over time.
That bandsaw may be too small for a 3/4" blade -- not sure -- in any event, a 3/8" or 1/2" blade with 3 or 4 teeth per inch is good for ripping. Yet, a finer TPI blade is better for thinner material.
🤷♂️ but they do! I read through a fair amount of the reviews and many weren't satisfied with the factory blade. I suspect it's to keep the price down but I'm sure most people would prefer the convenience of paying an extra £10 so save the effort of buying on afterwards.
Every manufacturer will cut costs on everything they can to sell quantity, even vehicles, how many cars or trucks have you bought that has tires that lasted as long as your second set? Lol none i bet. Bandsaws are no different, the blades are a wear/disposable idem, and cheap. They will never sell a saw with an expensive blade, no matter what brand.
@@sumeraybuilds exactly, it's sad that they know what they are doing, yet keep doing it lol. When I ordered my bandsaw, I ordered new blades in the same order, and replaced the brand new blade that came with it, without even trying it, never had a problem after that and never looked back lol.
I have to agree . I bought a small bandsaw. It really was hopeless so I took it back and got a refund. The supplied blade stopped me buying the product. A decent 4 or 6 tpi blade would have meant a sale. Complete marketing stupidity. If you want use a bandsaw just realise that once you cut a curve or when the blade dulls you can’t use the fence. Use a circular saw with a fence. Use a bandsaw freehand.
Imagine doing all of this rap and then NOT using a push stick to cut through a small piece of wood..... if you're going to be a pro..then cut like a pro ALWAYS use puch sticks...NOT your fingers....got it?Oh..AND don't forget to mention getting the cutting table completely square tot eh blade..you forgot that part...
I’ve been woodworking for over 45 years now and have gradually expanded into a very nice workshop. I have a large bandsaw - rated trade - but the principles are the same
- do buy quality blades. Companies like Tuff Saws offer a range of qualities their blades. If you are an occasional user in small softwood, you could get away with the lesser quality. If you are daily user cutting large pieces of hardwood, then get the best.they may cost more but you more than save on waste - and frustration.
- one blade does not do everything. At extremes, the blade to cut small radius circles is not the blade to resaw 15cm high oak - and vice versa. I have to have several blades and change them regularly according to the job. Again, if you only do one thing, then maybe one blade will do.
- set the guides properly. Mine are roller bearing guides but the principles are the same. Set them so that there is about 0.5mm to 1mm gap from guide to blade. They must not touch
- set the tension. For my machine (again a large one) I look for the movement in the blade. I want no more than 6mm movement if I push the blade with my finger half way down the gap between top guides and table when fully opened. Too little tension and too much tension both equal trouble.
- speed of cut. The harder the wood; the great the depth of cut both influence speed. Too fast is much worse than too slow but incredibly slow can burn
- accuracy. If I want to cut shop veneers of, let’s say, 20cm x 1.5mm from hardwood, I would be very lucky indeed if I got decent cuts just be using the machine fence (or an auxiliary higher fence that supports the whole height of the wood). I no longer take the gamble. The explanation of what I do is explained very well in a recent video from EN Curtis on YT.
- like almost everything, practice makes easier. Changing the blade first time is difficult; do it almost daily and you really find it no issue.
- the bandsaw or the table saw do not make finished cuts. If you want the highest quality finish, you would plane the cut surface smooth. For my veneers, I either put them through my planer (on a sled as the veneers are so thin) or through the wide belt sander. Doing that by hand is entirely possible but takes practice - and a sharp plane (that’s another learning curve).
Happy to answer anything if what I have written is not clear
Great insight, super informative. I wish I'de included some of this in the video. I have pinned your comment 🙌🙌
Please can you tell me the maximum width of a blade for the Titan ?
I’ve got the Aldi Ferrex 10” bandsaw but it’s near identical and probably came from the same factory as the Screwfix, Axminster, Scheppach and all the other similar budget bandsaws. My bandsaw has cam wheel guides which are quite fiddly to setup.
+1 from me for tuffsaw blades. I replaced the supplied one with a tuffsaw blade and was very pleased with it. I used the bandsaw extensively when cutting polystyrene insulation panels for my workshop and it was excellent at that. I do think the blade is starting to wander again so time for a new blade ….
Yes but try tightening it up first, sometimes it’s all it needs
Thanks for the suggestion, I tried it, but still wandering even on moderate thickness wood. When I had a new blade on it, it was perfect so I’ll get another blade. I suspect the polystyrene even though easy to cut has blunted it as its basically cutting plastic
Did you align the “bearings”? I’ve found that makes a huge difference on a ‘similar’ (same but different badge) bandsaw.
I didn’t need to for the blade change, but I did when I first set up the saw
Thankyou - great video - straight to all the relevant bits & very concise. I was wondering whether I needed one and wanted something not too expensive but still usable (cheap not always wise). So I'll buy the Titan & switch the blade. Thanks again for all the good tips.
Glad you liked it, thanks 🙏
Very good. informative video. I saved this video to watch again later. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the advice. I've ordered blades from Tuff Saw and will be testing them soon.
No problem 👍
Hello, I have very similar bandsaw as you, my factory bandsaw blade broke after a month of use ( I use it about 3-4 times a week) I ordered some better quality blades.
It is very weird that it did NOT crack at the weld. I had the bandsaw set up same as you according to user manual. Do you think it was caused buy low quality blade or am I doing something wrong? Thank you
You might have it over tightened, but likley due to a cheaper blade.
What kind of paint have you used for the log cabin on your background ?is it a clear one ? Or it’s a stain? I really like it and would like to have the same result on mine ! Thanks
I had to pull the tin out of my shed to check. It's Protek Royal Exterior - Golden Oak. It's water based and I found two coats was plenty. It's been on 3 years and still looking good, althought likley due a fresh coat soon.
Fantastic video. I needed to replace a band saw blade and I haven't done it since high school. This video killed two birds with one stone cuz now I know what blade I'm buying too. Cheers
Glad you liked it! Thanks🙏
Joe - another cracking video - just seen your recent Evolution Track Guide as well - have you thought of doing a video to compare the options of some combinations (2 or 3) of table saw + circular saw + band saw + track saw - maybe add in a mitre saw there as well. We clearly don’t need them all but what would be the best combination for someone that wants quality products, quality cutting, flexibility and willing to trade off a bit of speed for flexiblity and price. Also as a slight variant on that question - but also of interest - which of these saws produces the least dust and/or is easier to reduce dust with a dust extractor - and then which dust extractor - that’s a whole new topic in itself……
Thanks so much! It's a great idea and I'll add it to my list, I think this aligns well with something I am considering making. 🙏
I treated myself to a Metabo bandsaw and can cut up to about 8 inches depth. I have always suffered from blade drift however the set-up and consequently have wasted many pieces of wood. Using the fence just made it worse! I've mostly avoided doing those types of cut because of waste (and frustration). After watching this I will try a different blade. Thanx for your info.
No problem 🙏
Thanks for the video.....I have a similar type of saw but the power seems down but its so close so.....maybe its the pants blades Ive got (it was all secondhand) your video was helpful and thanks for the link.....think I will invest in some new blades before a new saw!!
Yes deffo worth a shot before committing to a brand new saw!
If you lower the distance to a minimum between the wood and the blade guides, that helps to lower the extent of the drift of the blade as well. What is the actual difference between such blades other than „quality“ : type/hardness of steel ???
I have a Scheppach and replaced blade with Axminster ones, made a big difference but best results are when, as suggested, blade guide is dropped right down as near to the cut piece as possible.
The teeth per inch are different, the one I tested in this video had more. Also, the quality of the steel used, you can tell just holding it that the Tuffsaw blades are made of tougher stuff. I want to reiterate that I'm not sponsored or affliated with TuffSaw, just really like their stuff!
Thankyou ! I was about to launch my titan over into the river at back of our house ! Where did u get the replacement blade pls ?
Tuffsaw- link in the description 👍
I have an old Ryobi band saw, drifts crazy hard. I replaced the blade with a Bosch one and dialed the rollers and such how YT tutorials told me too and the result... still drifts like crazy, I think maybe now I can say it's the saw and not the blade?
Adjust the table to the drift
Yea I’d agree it’s time for a new saw
There is too much flex in the saw. Grab the top and the table and see how much it moves.
Quick question. I noticed the before you were cutting to the outside of the timber and the after you were cutting the inside/fence side of the timber. Would this make a difference? Thanks
I have used both blades a fair bit now and can tell you that the factory blade with this saw is just bad, doesn’t matter what side you’re cutting the wood ect. I’m so glad I upgraded its changed the saw for me.
Wow that's a great price for replacement blades, any recommendations where to buy replacement tyres at a reasonable price?.
You don’t have to lower the tension on the blade after you release the tension lever. The point is to release the tension so you can remove the blade without losing your adjustment of the tension. If you’re using a different width blade, you have to make a number of adjustments which weren’t mentioned here. All the guides need to be adjusted for the width of the blade. The tension has to be tuned after to put the tension back with the lever. He might have gone through all of that in another video, but many come without seeing the older videos, so they need to know all of this.
Thank you!
hey, great video, lots of good information. I see you are running your bandsaw outside. How do you manage that? With an extension cord? Is it safe to do so? Interested as a woodworker. Cheers
Hey, I typically just move my stuff outside for when I’m filming because the lighting is much better. In my new workshop I’ll almost exclusively use this outside. When I am outside I just use an extension lead. 👍
@@sumeraybuilds Alright sounds good 👍 Will any extension lead work. Thinking about running a planer and a bandsaw off of one for the time being.
Looks like sapele and can you test some curves, what's the smallest radius you can turn?
I did get two blades, the other one I mention earlier in the video was for curves. I have tested both and very happy with their performance.
I've done construction/trim/woodworking for a few decades now and I tell everyone, it doesn't matter what kind of saw it is, first thing you do is change the blade out. The factory blades are almost always weak, so it's just easier to do so.
So true!
I have a small bandsaw that uses a 72" blade and I replaced the factory one with a 1/4" and was a nice surprise but will not last that long after a few hard maple cuts. The problem was the price $60.
$60 for the blade!?
Nice work dude 👍👍
Thanks 🙏
I have the Aldi Ferrex Bandsaw, and apart from a couple of differences- I rekon it was made in the same factory- now then re the blades- I phoned a blade company that specialises in bandsaw blades and was advised on a 14/6 tpi bi metal blade at ... £32 AND THEY WILL ONLY SELL minimum order of two blades- so I bought a 14/6 tpi bi metal for £15 off amazon and it was... crap. so now I will try your recomendation as I am really P1553d off so far with the results I have.- I''ll let you know my results-btw liked, subscribed and rung the bell for you!
Oh nice! Good luck with it, I’m sure you’ll be impressed! And thanks for the sub!
I would have liked to see a second cut on each piece and then measure the thickness of the piece that was cut twice.
Good feedback, thanks.🙏 If I do another video on this I'll make sure to include that 😃
Not trying to be funny, but I as a little puzzled about the comment about putting in the blade with the teeth pointing down. Unless they are pointing towards the back of the saw, how would you make them point up?
Haha, I just read this a actually chuckled, you're right! It felt like such solid advise at the time 😂
When you uncoil your blade, it is possible to get the blade's teeth going the wrong way. If so, you need to twist the blade inside out, for lack of a better description, so the teeth are oriented correctly. @sumeraybuilds was correct to mention this.
@@corwind3888 I do not hope that my question suggested that @sumeraybuilds was wrong mentioning this, I just did not know how it would be possible, but now I do. Thank you, I never though of this and I guess it is pure luck that I have never seen it.
Best way to shake the “I need to upgrade my bandsaw”thoughts….. replace the blade in your bandsaw!
😂 so true!
As a pen maker I do a lot of re sawing. Benchtop Skil 9", 59 1/2" blade, 3 1/2" capacity so definitely not a high end machine. Though the saw is rated up to a 3/8" blade I run a 1/2" 6 tpi metal blade. They are around $14 US. The width allows more blade for the guides and these are stiff blades. I would never use a 1/4" for re sawing. In the video you can see the cut wander a little. Just my 2 cents nice video though.
Thanks for the tips! I agree I would never go back to a 1/4" blade now! I was hoping to highlight the benefit of swapping the blade out can have, especially to newer woodworkers/ hobbyists. I do like the look of the SKIL stuff, unfortunatly most of their products are not available in the UK right now 😔
You really don't want the model I have.lol. I even think it is discontinued due to it is a piece of junk but it works. Any new blade works well at first and changing out the factory blade is a good idea. My comment was about re sawing which is what you were showing. A wider/stiffer blade works well for me. A metal blade is a twofer also as the pens use a brass tube so custom lengths can be achieved. It was still a good video@@sumeraybuilds
What is the maximum blade width ?
Do you mean for the Titan?
@@sumeraybuilds Yes please the max width blase for the Titan - I'm assuming that will cut the straightest for long cuts along the grain
Whats the length of the blade?
1575mm for the Titan
I agree that a good blade is key, but alignment is parimount. Once the blade is changed, it might track slightly different on the rubber wheels. If so, the guide blocks and rear bearing may need to be adjusted. Also, the fence might be in need of adjustment for the new cut line of the blade. Nothing is set perfect on a bandsaw like it would be when you change blades on a table saw.
Good tip thanks 🙏
I kept the cheap and nasty blade that came with my Record bandsaw for cutting cheap and nasty stuff like plastics and thin aluminium so that I don't spoil my nice new replacement wood blades.
That’s actually a great idea! I do a similar thing with my mitre saw
Most saws including table saws give you a generic blade with the machine. Alex Snodgrass has some very good videos on how to setup a bandsaw properly.
Good tip thanks 🙏
Nicely!
Thanks!
Just remember the improvement is great but does not stay so good as the blade blunts and after you have cut a curve. The blade will then not follow the fence. Better to have a circular saw in addition and often use the bandsaw without the fence, freehand
Good tip thanks 🙏
Keep some blades for straight cuts only and other for curves.. as soon as you start using your posh new blade for curves is is capacity for nice straight cuts will diminish...
Good tip, I did get a second blade for curves that I plan to swap out for that.
👍
👍
Helpful vid, thanks. From a viewer's perspective, you say "you're going to want to" or "you're gonna wanna" a lot. It's an annoying phrase that has snuck into the language in recent years. As a budding content creator, your use of it isn't excessive, but some RUclipsrs use it so much that their content becomes unwatchable. Instead of "you're going to want to pull this lever", consider "you should pull this lever" or "next, pull this lever" ... anything that gets rid of "you're going to want to .." which sounds clumsy, especially when it's said over and over. Otherwise, great video. Please keep 'em coming.
Thanks, I'll take it on board 🙏
There is a view that ònce you change a blade do not use a fence.
Each time you do you are putting more stress on one side of the blade making it less sharp than the other side causing drift.
Learn to cut strait without and finish with other tools, even with a quality blade it will start drifting over time.
I haven't heard this before. Cutting dead straight seems like a pretty difficult thing to do freehand!
That is not the blade for ripping that is the blade for scrolling,for ripping you need a 3/4”blade.😊😊
That bandsaw may be too small for a 3/4" blade -- not sure -- in any event, a 3/8" or 1/2" blade with 3 or 4 teeth per inch is good for ripping. Yet, a finer TPI blade is better for thinner material.
I went with what TuffSaw recommended
Why do they ship their machines with such awful blades? Their products will get bad reviews
🤷♂️ but they do! I read through a fair amount of the reviews and many weren't satisfied with the factory blade. I suspect it's to keep the price down but I'm sure most people would prefer the convenience of paying an extra £10 so save the effort of buying on afterwards.
My Record bandsaw was the same. I suppose that they aim to shave a few quid off to be cheaper than the competition.
Every manufacturer will cut costs on everything they can to sell quantity, even vehicles, how many cars or trucks have you bought that has tires that lasted as long as your second set? Lol none i bet. Bandsaws are no different, the blades are a wear/disposable idem, and cheap. They will never sell a saw with an expensive blade, no matter what brand.
It’s a shame that’s the way! Especially when one of these blades only costs £8.50 and a manufacturer could likely get them for half that price!
@@sumeraybuilds exactly, it's sad that they know what they are doing, yet keep doing it lol. When I ordered my bandsaw, I ordered new blades in the same order, and replaced the brand new blade that came with it, without even trying it, never had a problem after that and never looked back lol.
I have to agree . I bought a small bandsaw. It really was hopeless so I took it back and got a refund. The supplied blade stopped me buying the product. A decent 4 or 6 tpi blade would have meant a sale. Complete marketing stupidity.
If you want use a bandsaw just realise that once you cut a curve or when the blade dulls you can’t use the fence. Use a circular saw with a fence. Use a bandsaw freehand.
I strongly suggest wearing gloves. There are a couple of important arteries in your wrist!
Good tip thanks 🙏
Imagine doing all of this rap and then NOT using a push stick to cut through a small piece of wood.....
if you're going to be a pro..then cut like a pro ALWAYS use puch sticks...NOT your fingers....got it?Oh..AND don't forget to mention getting the cutting table completely square tot eh blade..you forgot that part...
Thanks