Yard Work And Buried Track (147)
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2020
- Now that the yard ladder is complete we can fill in the yard itself with all the other tracks. So let's take a look at some tips on working with long stretches of flextrack so we can get it straight and level. Then we'll move on to some more interesting work laying track below grade and filling the void with plaster. This will result in buried track with only the railheads showing. Track like this is common in many yards, sidings, spurs, and industries as well as around docks and even down the middle of some streets. So let's get started!
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I have no trains. I have no space nor the money at this time. But I find something cathartic and relaxing and ultimately satisfying watching a craftsman do his thing. Thank you!!!
I would answer you don’t need a lot of space and you don’t need a lot of money. You can start super small, a diorama or shelf layout maybe, and it’s the utmost fun!
@@googlypal I get what you are saying, but I really DO NOT HAVE....THE SPACE!!!!
i dream of the day i have the space to do all this..I save all your vids so i can reference back to them at a later date...Thanks for sharing your knowledge to the rest of us
I love the look of buried track, just imagine a old industrial line with trains running through the road
You could probably use a block plane to gouge out the foam on the siding where the track is to be embedded. Might create less foam mess.
Outstanding video thank you!
aha! So that is a way to create rail in the street. I will try that with the layout I am building. Thanks Larry.
Boldly you go! LIVE! 👍
Nice work Larry, Look forward to the next video update. Nick Australia
Great work, looks very good
Nice Job Larry!
Nice work. Congratulations :)
HI Larry, as Tony Mc Kenna said we no longueur receive notification in our mail box .
Now you have to connect to you tube and look in to you're notification, Google Say's that is because
most people didn't open them so they no longueur send them. shame it was quite good.
Never the less thanks for your videos, stay safe there is quite an increase of COVID in the States right now.
Regards from La Réunion
Sure forms are l8bucks at homedepot. Also the craftsman ones are most likely re-badged Stanley. Hey, awesome video cant wait to bring my n and ho layouts back to life 😀
Hi from the UK! When laying rail( any gauge), I've found a small mirror makes checking alignment easier on straights or curves. The kind ladies have for makeup in their purse (or handbag). Place the mirror at a distance and look down the track. Less of a crick in your neck and easier access! It's surprising how many doglegs this might reveal, especially at rail joints. Regards, Alan.
Great tip, I’ll steal one from the wife and give it a try-Larry
you prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Chris Derek Instablaster :)
@Emery Bryant i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Emery Bryant it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
Klasse 👍
I have Bubble levels from 6 inch up to 4 ft long .
Invest their multi purpose .
Also get yourself some target / bull's-eye bubble levels .
That way if the framework has adjustable feet you can see the results faster .
Mark the top from corner to corner then place the level corner to line in all four directions then adjust the feet to get the bubble dead center .
Make sure that the edges of the module is the same Heights to whatever adjacent modules there is to prevent any derailments .
How appropriate that for measuring and leveling trackage in a yard, one uses ... a YARDSTICK!
(I'll leave now.)
As stated by someone earlier a mirror is a great way to look for kinks and using a straight Tracksetta is a great help as well. Enjoying this series especially as you are using UK models. Also if you don't want to put droppers onevery section and not solder the fish plates either then to ensure electrical continuity as on the real railway solder a piece of wire with curls at each end so that when the rail expands and contracts the piece of wire flexes with it. Another thing with the wiring of points, when connecting the stock rail with the point blade why not do it with a dropper wire length?
Use a spirit Level job done
I have an HO layout in my basement. I'm still using old type regular DC type trains. All these DCC types are out of my budget. I do electronic work and made a TAT-5 (true action) throttle. It has a pulse generator for very slow realistic starts. It also has a load control to simulate a loaded train and slow acceleration.
Most folks who opt for DCC are looking for sound or to be able to operate a lot of locos simultaneously without having to use a lot of block switches. If you don’t want that then DC is still a good option.
The flex track that I bought was from Yugoslavia. I had 5 long pieces of it. In each case, the metal rails separated from the plastic part of the track before I was able to lay any of it. I could not get it to go back together, because the plastic tabs holding the metal rails in place had cracked and failed.
It was a huge loss and waste of money for me, especially in light of the fact that I have very little of it to start with.
Another great video Larry 👍👍👍
Have you seen the new Noise Killer Roadbed
From Rapido? It comes as a main line version (3.5mm deep) and a branch line version at 2 mm deep.
I’ll have to give it a look, although too lat for these modules or the Piedmont Southern.
Very helpful video! Thanks! What do you use to transition from the height of the cork roadbed under the switch down to the level of the foam? Thanks again!
Watch video #145.
Edward buttering toast.
Hi Larry that looks really good what will be in that area when it is finished?
That is where the back of the goods shed is located. So cars, wagons, and lorries will be able to easily cross the tracks to access the loading dock at the shed and also drive back to the coal dealer, cattle dock/pen, and gas works.
Great idea on the long yard stick looking for daylight. What do u think of using some balsa wood or basswood shims to push the cork up where it dips before glueing it to the foam board?
I think I might try using styrene sheets of various thicknesses but your idea would work too since they could be easily sanded to get a flat surface.
Just form area around track and pour. Fake grade with scenery....
Also a dip may work fine, looks like 2 cars would settle in nice.
How about adding some sort of dirt colored tint to the plaster, smooth-it or hydrocal?
If you don't, when it chips (not IF it chips, because it will), you'll end up with white spots all over the place.
You could do that and in the past I have done that with my roads. But I intend tp paint this surface first, then add a layer of dirt and ballast over that. So I don’t expect that to be an issue. If I were planning on this being an exposed road surface or concrete parking lot then I would add color.
Does adding the concrete mess with electrical part of it? Does it take additional wiring? Or can i do it on bachmann ez track and a power pack?
No problems so far, the electrons still trickle down the rails same as usual. The plastic roadbed may make it harder to clean out next to the rails and I don’t know how well the plaster will stick to it. If you have a scrap,piece you could do a test.
If you have a Leveling bubble use it to see how level the track is.
Track is in a hole, it will not be level.
Do you have any thoughts about using homasote as a base compared to foam board?
I have used it in the past but it is impossible to find near me so I gave up on it 10 years ago.
I’ve used it before and it picks up dirt very easily and prefer to use a hard baseboard. Over time unless it’s in a stable temperature indoors it can deteriorate especially if it gets damp.
Has anyone tried making this type of roadbed in z scale?
Apparently not as it is not listed on Walthers or the Micro Trains websites. You could cut your own from thin cork sheets.
I have done this subscribed but notifications don't work
You need to click the 🔔 icon as well
@@abbofun9022 And select 'All.'
They no longer send emails but I get popups on my iPad and anytime I open Google Chrome there are popups as well. And of course when you do visit RUclips you will get notifications.
I just dont understand why glueing the track down seems to be the new norm. any long time model railroader changes the track plan at any given moment or new scene. pulling up old nails keep the track reusable.
Nails transmit sound down to the plywood roadbed and amplify them and they look iunprototypical. I have never had any problems sliding a putty knife under the glued track and lifting it.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for the reply. you are right about the sound but the nails dissapear under the ballast.obviously i am old school. I do use foam but it is almost impossible to find full sheets in Ca anymore. Love the channel thanks
Unnecessarily verbose-stating the obvious a lot of the time
What may be obvious to you may not be to others and I like to provide for all levels of knowledge and experience.