Hello Larry, I hate the flex track but seen your video's you made it easier. I always bought the atlas 32-52 piece's and never fits right... So I'm ripping tracks up to replace my curves and going to try flex track again,. Didn't know really how to use it much until you showed ..., Thanks, joe
Hi Larry, I'm really enjoying your videos! Now in December I am wanting to start an OO layout with my sons, great tips so far! Greetings from South Africa.
Nice work Larry. Timely reminder about wearing safety glasses. Thanks for the alternative UK hobby stores selling the Blue Point Switches. In the UK, you can buy cork rolls of various thickness from DIY stores such as B&Q etc. For any US watchers, in the UK we dont call rolling stock box cars or cars etc. We call these wagons, trucks, turbots or flatbeds amongst other things!
Larry, it's a bit ironic that you should mention not ending up in the ER in the middle of the night, because last Saturday (11-7) that's exactly what happened to me for a strangulated hernia in the right lower groin. Got to the ER around 8 PM, into surgery around 11:30. Spent the next 5 days in the hospital. Lost 4" of my small intestine. This has absolutely nothing to do with trains, just found it ironic. I'm doing OK, just lack of energy and some soreness, Hoping to be back to work the on the 30th, but we'll see.
Wow, not exactly the way you want to spend Thanksgiving so good luck with it, and you’re not alone. I ended up in the ER twice with train related accidents. Once I jabbed a no. 17 knife blade into my thumb (still numb). And on another occasion while working under the layout I ended up with a sliver of metal in my eye. But those were about 1985 and I think I learned my lesson!
Thanks Larry, what another really great easy to follow Video, nice to see you using the Surform, my dear old Father had one which I’ve inherited. Keep Safe, and a peaceful, happy Thanksgiving to you and your Family.
My friend. It was already at the perfect height without all that cutting fitting and slicing. Cut the cork put the magnet in call it done. We got a lot a work to do, can't be jacking with all that.
Yes, I remember David Popp doing that on the Virginian Thin Branch project railroad in MR. I think Midwest products sells cork sheet in those thicknesses too. How do you manage the transition between the two elevations?
Just saw this video. I know it’s a couple years old but, Widgetco in Houston carries sheet cork in several thicknesses. They are usually 3mm, 6mm but not 5mm so they don’t match up to Midwest cork roadbed. However, a little sanding will fix that 1mm
Hi Larry Another great instructional video. I appreciated the warning about safety goggles. I will get some tomorrow. Do you have laminate samples for colours and patterns used in kitchen cabinets? They are great for spreading stuff, especially the ones that have a gloss finish. They can also be left to dry then very easily cleaned. Stay safe Paul from Zillmere
Thanks Larry great video and great tips to keep us hobbying rather than making doctors rich. I found to buy the blue point motors in Australia via ebay the shipping is more expensive than the motors. Massive fail! I can buy most things online at 40% of the cost in the shops here, delivered whilst paying my tax someone is putting their hands in someone elses pockets.
The small one was from a hardware store, used for rolling wallpaper seams. The wide one is from an art supply store, used for inking woodcuts to make prints, etc.
You have broken the sticking point on my trackwork- in my small town I have not been able to find a Surform plane, so I have been looking into other ways to change the grades in my yard. I see that a Surform is the best way to go, so online ordering is the order of the day. I am an N Scale modeler and want to pass on that using HO cork trackbed is another easy way to separate the levels; I'm going to use HO cork for extra trackbed depth on some mountainous elevated areas as well.
It should be really good for making steep embankments too. Go for it--Larry PS-if you have an Amazon Prime account you can get these for $14.98 and they have a Craftsman knockoff for $8.98.
How about using 3/8" to 1/2" dowel rod? Simple and easy to cut to any length you need. With 1/2" rod, you can notch the end to fit over the connecting point on the Blue Point Controller. Then drill a small hole for a 'pin' to secure it to the Controller.
All that would work but it takes a lot of time and only works for direct line connections. If you need to,go around something or at an angle the cables and flexible pushrods are much easier to work with.
Hi Larry how are you doing. ? It is Neil from west valley city ,UTAH. Do yo have a video how how to wirer dcc on a lay out ? If so what video would it be ?
There are over 150 videos on my channel now, many on the subject of wiring. It would be best for you to go to my channel main page and look over the wiring videos. I have them broken down by subject matter.
Hi Larry, I have an off topic question for you and/or anyone else that is following your great video series. I have a situation where I would like to flip a coil switch(atlas) from two different points on my layout. Is it possible to just wire both toggles to the same switch machine or do I need some electronics (eg. diodes) to protect the toggles from any kind of electronic surge when the other toggle is used to throw the switch? If I were doing home wiring, I would just buy a 3way light switch. I have not seen a similar product for HO trains. Any and all comments are most welcome. Thank you in advance for letting me get off topic.
Guy-it depends on how it is wired and controlled. If you use an accessory decoder like the NCE Switch8 then there is no problem with having multiple pushbuttons. if you plan to power them directly then it could get dicey should you end up with 2 people pushing the power buttons simultaneously. I think you could get away with using a diode matrix but I came one generation late and never have worked with those. Good luck.
Yes and no, it depends on the yard. For a heavily used yard like Monroe on the Piedmont Southern it is all ballasted. For smaller operations like on the modules I will ballast the track itself but not the areas between them. This is also true for the pulp loading track in Monroe yard. The neat thing about these smaller settings is the rails and ties are often buried in earth up to the tops of the rails, something I will do on the modules.
I have that problem all the time with Walthers. I'll get their monthly catalog and immediately order a few things and get an email back that they're out of stock and they don't know when they'll be back in stock again. Like wtf, Walthers?!?! So I end up ordering from Nicholas Smith or Tony's Trains or even from Amazon.
Yes, been there done that over and over again. I guess it is possible they only have 1 in stock when I click the order button and sell out before the electrons make it all the way to Wisconsin!
Automotive choke cables also work. However many of these are more expensive that plastic pushrods. I dug out a couple metal connecting rods from my old sailplanes but then could not find any more locally or on Amazon/eBay. I also looked on a few RC websites and they did not have them either. I don’t know if they are not making any right now due to lockdowns or some other reason.
Hello Larry, I hate the flex track but seen your video's you made it easier. I always bought the atlas 32-52 piece's and never fits right... So I'm ripping tracks up to replace my curves and going to try flex track again,. Didn't know really how to use it much until you showed ..., Thanks, joe
Hi Larry, I'm really enjoying your videos! Now in December I am wanting to start an OO layout with my sons, great tips so far! Greetings from South Africa.
Go for it, get them started now for a lifetime hobby.
Nice work Larry. Timely reminder about wearing safety glasses. Thanks for the alternative UK hobby stores selling the Blue Point Switches. In the UK, you can buy cork rolls of various thickness from DIY stores such as B&Q etc. For any US watchers, in the UK we dont call rolling stock box cars or cars etc. We call these wagons, trucks, turbots or flatbeds amongst other things!
Thanks for those tips.
Larry, it's a bit ironic that you should mention not ending up in the ER in the middle of the night, because last Saturday (11-7) that's exactly what happened to me for a strangulated hernia in the right lower groin. Got to the ER around 8 PM, into surgery around 11:30. Spent the next 5 days in the hospital. Lost 4" of my small intestine. This has absolutely nothing to do with trains, just found it ironic. I'm doing OK, just lack of energy and some soreness, Hoping to be back to work the on the 30th, but we'll see.
Wow, not exactly the way you want to spend Thanksgiving so good luck with it, and you’re not alone. I ended up in the ER twice with train related accidents. Once I jabbed a no. 17 knife blade into my thumb (still numb). And on another occasion while working under the layout I ended up with a sliver of metal in my eye. But those were about 1985 and I think I learned my lesson!
Thanks Larry, what another really great easy to follow Video, nice to see you using the Surform, my dear old Father had one which I’ve inherited. Keep Safe, and a peaceful, happy Thanksgiving to you and your Family.
Thanks Peter.
My friend. It was already at the perfect height without all that cutting fitting and slicing. Cut the cork put the magnet in call it done. We got a lot a work to do, can't be jacking with all that.
I use HO cork roadbed for my mainline and N scale cork roadbed for my passing tracks which gives a nice elevation change.
Yes, I remember David Popp doing that on the Virginian Thin Branch project railroad in MR. I think Midwest products sells cork sheet in those thicknesses too. How do you manage the transition between the two elevations?
Just saw this video. I know it’s a couple years old but, Widgetco in Houston carries sheet cork in several thicknesses. They are usually 3mm, 6mm but not 5mm so they don’t match up to Midwest cork roadbed. However, a little sanding will fix that 1mm
Hi Larry
Another great instructional video.
I appreciated the warning about safety goggles. I will get some tomorrow.
Do you have laminate samples for colours and patterns used in kitchen cabinets? They are great for spreading stuff, especially the ones that have a gloss finish. They can also be left to dry then very easily cleaned.
Stay safe
Paul from Zillmere
Great video
Thanks for the compliment!
Good info in this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Larry great video and great tips to keep us hobbying rather than making doctors rich. I found to buy the blue point motors in Australia via ebay the shipping is more expensive than the motors. Massive fail! I can buy most things online at 40% of the cost in the shops here, delivered whilst paying my tax someone is putting their hands in someone elses pockets.
Way to go!
Where did you get that wooden smoothing roller?
The small one was from a hardware store, used for rolling wallpaper seams. The wide one is from an art supply store, used for inking woodcuts to make prints, etc.
Larry - another great video! What thickness of cork sheeting do you use? Thanks!
It measures out as 0.1” thick but may be advertised as 1/8”. I either bought it at Staples or Amazon.
You have broken the sticking point on my trackwork- in my small town I have not been able to find a Surform plane, so I have been looking into other ways to change the grades in my yard. I see that a Surform is the best way to go, so online ordering is the order of the day. I am an N Scale modeler and want to pass on that using HO cork trackbed is another easy way to separate the levels; I'm going to use HO cork for extra trackbed depth on some mountainous elevated areas as well.
It should be really good for making steep embankments too. Go for it--Larry
PS-if you have an Amazon Prime account you can get these for $14.98 and they have a Craftsman knockoff for $8.98.
@@TheDCCGuy - thanks for the tip.
How about using 3/8" to 1/2" dowel rod? Simple and easy to cut to any length you need. With 1/2" rod, you can notch the end to fit over the connecting point on the Blue Point Controller. Then drill a small hole for a 'pin' to secure it to the Controller.
All that would work but it takes a lot of time and only works for direct line connections. If you need to,go around something or at an angle the cables and flexible pushrods are much easier to work with.
Hi Larry how are you doing. ?
It is Neil from west valley city ,UTAH.
Do yo have a video how how to wirer dcc on a lay out ?
If so what video would it be ?
There are over 150 videos on my channel now, many on the subject of wiring. It would be best for you to go to my channel main page and look over the wiring videos. I have them broken down by subject matter.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks
Hi Larry, I have an off topic question for you and/or anyone else that is following your great video series. I have a situation where I would like to flip a coil switch(atlas) from two different points on my layout. Is it possible to just wire both toggles to the same switch machine or do I need some electronics (eg. diodes) to protect the toggles from any kind of electronic surge when the other toggle is used to throw the switch? If I were doing home wiring, I would just buy a 3way light switch. I have not seen a similar product for HO trains. Any and all comments are most welcome.
Thank you in advance for letting me get off topic.
Guy-it depends on how it is wired and controlled. If you use an accessory decoder like the NCE Switch8 then there is no problem with having multiple pushbuttons. if you plan to power them directly then it could get dicey should you end up with 2 people pushing the power buttons simultaneously. I think you could get away with using a diode matrix but I came one generation late and never have worked with those. Good luck.
Larry could you please post the link to the hobby shop in the 🇬🇧 that has the blue point switch machines! Thank you
I just googled “blue point switch machine uk” and the ones I mentioned came up.
Larry, What Brand is your Screw Gun, and where did you get it?
That’s a little Black &Decker I picked up at Lowes.
Do you ballast the yard?
Yes and no, it depends on the yard. For a heavily used yard like Monroe on the Piedmont Southern it is all ballasted. For smaller operations like on the modules I will ballast the track itself but not the areas between them. This is also true for the pulp loading track in Monroe yard. The neat thing about these smaller settings is the rails and ties are often buried in earth up to the tops of the rails, something I will do on the modules.
Rather then cutting cork to fit under track why not lay sheet cork through out entire yard?
I think you’ll see as I proceed with the rest of the track.
I have that problem all the time with Walthers. I'll get their monthly catalog and immediately order a few things and get an email back that they're out of stock and they don't know when they'll be back in stock again. Like wtf, Walthers?!?! So I end up ordering from Nicholas Smith or Tony's Trains or even from Amazon.
Yes, been there done that over and over again. I guess it is possible they only have 1 in stock when I click the order button and sell out before the electrons make it all the way to Wisconsin!
Push rods are also used in the rc airplane hobby, check airplane web site
You can also use bicycle sheathed brake cable.
My former local HS used to sell the RC cables for blue point installations, same thing
Automotive choke cables also work. However many of these are more expensive that plastic pushrods. I dug out a couple metal connecting rods from my old sailplanes but then could not find any more locally or on Amazon/eBay. I also looked on a few RC websites and they did not have them either. I don’t know if they are not making any right now due to lockdowns or some other reason.
Push rods are a Sullivan Products, # sul504
Sort of dangerous cutting with that much blade exposed for shallow cuts. They can snap off and make blood all over the layout!
Roger I noticed that too and made a mental note to retract that blade a bit in the future.
bad way of using knife , easy to break blade if used so far out ... still cuts if shorter and safer