I thought It was just me that broke my harden steel pliers. Thanks for keeping that part in. I feel more like a normal person when it happens to someone that has a lot more experience.
The new set arrived yesterday so I am back in business cutting wires. The problem with a Dremel tool cutting disk is the amount of heat it creates. That can lead to melting of the throwrod around the wire if it takes too long.
Use a Dremel tool, with either a carbide or diamond cut-off wheel to cut the piano wire; set the speed to 5-6. Use appropriate safety equipment and hold the end of the wire to keep it from flying away. The diamond wheel will cut anything. It is better than constantly replacing wire cutters. Enjoy, Bruce
Yes, I have done that but the clearance between the rails and the point details makes it hard to get down close on the rod so I usually go with the cutters. I ordered a new pair which should arrive today or tomorrow for the rest of the videos. I have also marked the rod a d the removed the switch machine, cut off the wire, and then reinstalled it, but that is a pain so only done when all else fails.
@@TheDCCGuy You might also try the hard wire cutters sold by Micro Mark. I work in N scale, and all my turnouts have the rod protruding from the side rather than within the ties. so I guess my cutting job is a bit easier. In my case, the rod does not have to be quite as short as it does when between the tie, and I think the Micro Mark cutter is a bit bulkier.
It was when I was working both sides of the layout and manipulating the switch machine with one hand and watching it on the other side. You just have to keep poking away at it until it comes through the little hole then capture it with a hemostat so it won’t fall back out. I’ll be doing some more next week and will see if I can show both sides but I am not sure how since I don’t have a cameraman to shoot for me while I do it.
I would like to install some on my layout to transform some manual turnouts . But I have to work alone from under the layout and I need a trick to hit the bullseye of the allready installed turnouts , also my "underlayout" is not as clean as your plywood !!!
Is it possible to reach the point under the benchwork and still view what is happening on top? If not then you need two people, one to slowly probe from below and the other to watch the turnout and guide the poker. Also, have you glued the turnouts in place already? If not then install the switch machine and slowly lower the turnout into place over the throw wire. No matter which way it will take patience.
@@TheDCCGuy use two devices and facetime or something between them. Have one on top pointing at the turnout hole and the other one with you under the layout.
I just bought a lot of used atlas snap switches. And I wanted to know if I could make them manual. And now I know how to do it. Thank you for the info.
I wish I could feed my Tortoise wires up through the throw bars that fast. I'm at a standstill with them as I can't see of reach both sides. Model railroading is fun.....they say!
Yes, you do need long arms to reach both sides. One tip os to watch when the wires comes up next to the throw rod and then ease it back down and over to below the hole and them just poke it up through.
Caboose does make a version with a built in switch that can be used to power route the frog. I have never used them so I suggest giving one a test before committing to a bunch.
Thanks Larry, I've been wondering if I could make these work for my purposes and I see now that I (probably) can. My issue is that I mount my track on 1" insulation boards, so there's no wood to screw the switch machines to underneath. I imagine gluing them in place would probably work, maybe in combination with screws with widely spaced threads. Or I could glue a thin piece of wood to the foam and then screw into that. Any thoughts?
I once installed Tortoises under 2” thick foam slabs. I did have to replace the throw wires with longer ones. To mount them I cut squares of tempered hardboard, inserted small bolts spaced to fit the Tortoises, and then glued these to the bottom of the foam board. Finally I mounted the Tortoises to these. The potential problem I see doing this with the Blue Points is the throw rods would out a lot fo side pressure and I don’t know how well or how long the glue bond would last. I definitely would do a test setup with one before investing in a bunch of them.
How long is the throw rod on these or the tortoise devices? Wondering how thick you can go with plywood, foam and rail roadbed before an issue with making the connection to the rail develops. Thanks!
The Blue Point is about 2 1/4” and the Tortoise is about 1 3/8”. Of course you can buy piano wire and substitute for longer throws as I do on the Piedmont Southern with Tortoises. Between the 1” thickness of plywood and foam along with the cork roadbed the Tortoises are just a hair too short.
I may have missed your comments on this question. How do you choose which turnouts to control manually and which to control through your DCC system? Do you have any turnouts that are operable both through your DCC system and also by a fascia-mounted control? Maybe this might be a subject for a future video.
I don’t have any that are controlled by my DCC system. The reason being that for that I would need some to either (1) place a map or markers on the layout giving the DCC address for each turnout/accessory decoder, or (2) I would need to computerize the whole shooting match. I find that in the first case operators are already busy enough just running trains and don’t need to be further diverted looking for a turnout address. And second I don’t want the extra headache of maintaining a computerized layout. So all my turnouts are controlled by switches on control panels or individual switches on the fascia.
Good day Larry P. I like your show it is useful, I like to know from your experience what type turnout of PECO System I can use it in my layout #13 from ATLAS Book # 11 p# 20. It has 5 turnout # 4 by ATLAS Cod 100, 3 L.H, and 2 R.H by using the DCC System. Since there 2 type of PECO Turnout one is Elecrofrog, and Insulfrog. Best regards to you for your time.
The Electrofrog and Insulfrog turnouts are being phased out and replaced by what Peco is calling the Unifrog. It essentially incorporates the various design elements that I shoed in the modifications I make to Electrofrogs. However I have not been able to find any details on how fast they are transitioning to the new design. As soon as I ca get my hands on one I will do a video on this new design. I believe that the Atlas #4 is designed as an all live turnout and the Unifrogs will come that way. The Electrofrog can be made all live as I showed in the video. The problem may be a with the degree of curvature since the Atlas is a #4 which is a very sharp radius and I am not sure whether the Peco range includes a comparable radius. Your best bet may be to stick with the Atlas turnouts that the trackplan specifies especially since it sound as though you are new to this and modifying turnouts and trackplans may be more than you are ready to take on.
Hi Larry I am changing a graham farish hst to dcc and installing a corelass motor it is a poole hst 125 not split chassis OK got the motor in with two wires orange and gray THIS IT where do take the power wires from for the picks ups for power can you advise me me thank you Brian Ps like the uk version of your channel keep up the good work,
@Model Railroading Hi Larry thank you for your reply to my inquiry but just need to now where to put the red and black on the loco body to make the track pick ups thank you Brian
By the time you buy all the parts needed for a Blue Point installation and count the effort used in the installation, you could have mounted a Tortoise or a compact MP1 for about the same price and 1/2 the effort.
Harbor Freight Tools make and sell small size pliers and cutters in their Pittsburg tool line Their small Diagonal cutters cut piano wire quite well in fairly tight and or close places. These tools are quite cheap and can be purchased either individually or in a set, either from their web site or at their physical store, if you have one near you. ;-)
@@TheDCCGuy The set I got had either 6 or 8 different tools with orange handle covers in a black plastic pouch. I think they cost around $15 too. Harbor Freight is a good place for medium quality stuff for low cost. The pliers are cheap enough to be easily replaced if broken.
I replace the wire on my Tortoises too but I don’t think it would help with these, but I can give it a try on one if using the larger diameter hole doesn’t work. I really think it is due to the length of travel.
It’s coming but unfortunately Walthers was out of stock on the pushrods. However I was able to find an alternate source and order some today. I will have to delay that video for a week but that will allow me to start building the ladder into the freight/goods yard a d get some track laid in there.
Hi Larry, Please give me the website of your hobbyshop dealer, meaybe he would a bulk pack of the blue point switch machines order from germany, too? These blue point switch machines are ideal for me to use them with a mechanical lever bench and mechanical interlocking register. It made me sad the humpyard levers are no more available before I could order some of them, so I still build my own lever frames with additional interlockinh registers, two differen interlocking registers are in my focus, the british Saxby & Farmer Kaskade system of 1857 patent and the german Juedel System of the 1890's. Both interlocking systems working great but needing a blue pount switching machine as addition to control frogs and points or stub turnouts or even semaphore signal arms and changing the duo LEDs for signal light switching. I have some great Ideas how to use the blue point switching machines on my projects, so I thank you very much for your great video. Regards, Ingo
I buy from www.blueridgehobbies.com most of the time. I did have to get the pushrods from www.tonystrains.com as they were the only ones with them. I suggest sending them each an email inquiring about international purchases. You also might consider an eBay search and check with some hobby dealers in your country who specialize in US hobby products.
@@TheDCCGuy Hey Larry, Thank you very much for your information about your preferred hobby shops. Me I allready did made a purchase from an hobby shop at Eltopia, WA to buy hundreds of double hung Windows from Tichy Train for my self built buildings in H0 Scale.
I allready found an hobby shop in germany what sells the blue point switch machines and its operating cords and tubes for low prices but have some thanks again for you giving hobby shop addresses.
My search says that Coastal DCC, NG Trains, Mech Models, and the UK ebay site, among others all offer them. Do a search and see what comes up. You also can order from US suppliers like MicroMark. I get shipments from Hattons all the time-am impatiently awaiting the Dapol GWR moguls right now!
I thought It was just me that broke my harden steel pliers. Thanks for keeping that part in. I feel more like a normal person when it happens to someone that has a lot more experience.
I had to find something totally different that usual to cut this stuff. I may have even put a little chip in the ones that could cut it.
Hi Larry, many thanks for your Reply, yes, you’re quite right hadn’t thought of that Downside. 👍
Once again Larry very informative videos.
Keep them coming 👍👍👍
Thanks, will do!
Thank you Larry, shame about the Pliers breaking, I immediately thought of using a Dremel too as some of your other Subscribers did. Keep safe.
The new set arrived yesterday so I am back in business cutting wires. The problem with a Dremel tool cutting disk is the amount of heat it creates. That can lead to melting of the throwrod around the wire if it takes too long.
Use a Dremel tool, with either a carbide or diamond cut-off wheel to cut the piano wire; set the speed to 5-6. Use appropriate safety equipment and hold the end of the wire to keep it from flying away. The diamond wheel will cut anything. It is better than constantly replacing wire cutters.
Enjoy, Bruce
Yes, I have done that but the clearance between the rails and the point details makes it hard to get down close on the rod so I usually go with the cutters. I ordered a new pair which should arrive today or tomorrow for the rest of the videos. I have also marked the rod a d the removed the switch machine, cut off the wire, and then reinstalled it, but that is a pain so only done when all else fails.
@@TheDCCGuy You might also try the hard wire cutters sold by Micro Mark. I work in N scale, and all my turnouts have the rod protruding from the side rather than within the ties. so I guess my cutting job is a bit easier. In my case, the rod does not have to be quite as short as it does when between the tie, and I think the Micro Mark cutter is a bit bulkier.
Great product and video . Thanks .
Was waiting to see how you aligned the long pin thru the hole of the turnout , but I did not see that part ....
It was when I was working both sides of the layout and manipulating the switch machine with one hand and watching it on the other side. You just have to keep poking away at it until it comes through the little hole then capture it with a hemostat so it won’t fall back out. I’ll be doing some more next week and will see if I can show both sides but I am not sure how since I don’t have a cameraman to shoot for me while I do it.
I would like to install some on my layout to transform some manual turnouts . But I have to work alone from under the layout and I need a trick to hit the bullseye of the allready installed turnouts , also my "underlayout" is not as clean as your plywood !!!
Is it possible to reach the point under the benchwork and still view what is happening on top? If not then you need two people, one to slowly probe from below and the other to watch the turnout and guide the poker. Also, have you glued the turnouts in place already? If not then install the switch machine and slowly lower the turnout into place over the throw wire. No matter which way it will take patience.
@@TheDCCGuy use two devices and facetime or something between them. Have one on top pointing at the turnout hole and the other one with you under the layout.
I just bought a lot of used atlas snap switches. And I wanted to know if I could make them manual. And now I know how to do it. Thank you for the info.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I wish I could feed my Tortoise wires up through the throw bars that fast. I'm at a standstill with them as I can't see of reach both sides. Model railroading is fun.....they say!
Yes, you do need long arms to reach both sides. One tip os to watch when the wires comes up next to the throw rod and then ease it back down and over to below the hole and them just poke it up through.
Great Video as allways. Did you use 3/8 spring steel wire at the end of the video or did you use the supplied wire? Thanks!
I’m pretty sure that the ones that came with the Blue Pints were long enough and worked fine as long a the hole was the larger diameter.
@@TheDCCGuy you enlarged the hole on the Peco throwbar to 3/8? Thanks
This convinced me to use Caboose hand throws.
Caboose does make a version with a built in switch that can be used to power route the frog. I have never used them so I suggest giving one a test before committing to a bunch.
Extremely helpful, thank you!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks Larry, I've been wondering if I could make these work for my purposes and I see now that I (probably) can. My issue is that I mount my track on 1" insulation boards, so there's no wood to screw the switch machines to underneath. I imagine gluing them in place would probably work, maybe in combination with screws with widely spaced threads. Or I could glue a thin piece of wood to the foam and then screw into that. Any thoughts?
I once installed Tortoises under 2” thick foam slabs. I did have to replace the throw wires with longer ones. To mount them I cut squares of tempered hardboard, inserted small bolts spaced to fit the Tortoises, and then glued these to the bottom of the foam board. Finally I mounted the Tortoises to these. The potential problem I see doing this with the Blue Points is the throw rods would out a lot fo side pressure and I don’t know how well or how long the glue bond would last. I definitely would do a test setup with one before investing in a bunch of them.
@@TheDCCGuy Will do, thanks!
Hi. Not sure if I missed it but do you remove the spring from the turnout if you are operational with a servo?
I would.
How long is the throw rod on these or the tortoise devices? Wondering how thick you can go with plywood, foam and rail roadbed before an issue with making the connection to the rail develops. Thanks!
The Blue Point is about 2 1/4” and the Tortoise is about 1 3/8”. Of course you can buy piano wire and substitute for longer throws as I do on the Piedmont Southern with Tortoises. Between the 1” thickness of plywood and foam along with the cork roadbed the Tortoises are just a hair too short.
Larry, thank you for the response and recommendations!
I may have missed your comments on this question. How do you choose which turnouts to control manually and which to control through your DCC system? Do you have any turnouts that are operable both through your DCC system and also by a fascia-mounted control? Maybe this might be a subject for a future video.
I don’t have any that are controlled by my DCC system. The reason being that for that I would need some to either (1) place a map or markers on the layout giving the DCC address for each turnout/accessory decoder, or (2) I would need to computerize the whole shooting match. I find that in the first case operators are already busy enough just running trains and don’t need to be further diverted looking for a turnout address. And second I don’t want the extra headache of maintaining a computerized layout. So all my turnouts are controlled by switches on control panels or individual switches on the fascia.
I added a piece of plastic pipe in the hole to make the jig stable
Good day Larry P. I like your show it is useful, I like to know from your experience what type turnout of PECO System I can use it in my layout #13 from ATLAS Book # 11 p# 20. It has 5 turnout # 4 by ATLAS Cod 100, 3 L.H, and 2 R.H by using the DCC System. Since there 2 type of PECO Turnout one is Elecrofrog, and Insulfrog. Best regards to you for your time.
The Electrofrog and Insulfrog turnouts are being phased out and replaced by what Peco is calling the Unifrog. It essentially incorporates the various design elements that I shoed in the modifications I make to Electrofrogs. However I have not been able to find any details on how fast they are transitioning to the new design. As soon as I ca get my hands on one I will do a video on this new design. I believe that the Atlas #4 is designed as an all live turnout and the Unifrogs will come that way. The Electrofrog can be made all live as I showed in the video. The problem may be a with the degree of curvature since the Atlas is a #4 which is a very sharp radius and I am not sure whether the Peco range includes a comparable radius. Your best bet may be to stick with the Atlas turnouts that the trackplan specifies especially since it sound as though you are new to this and modifying turnouts and trackplans may be more than you are ready to take on.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you Larry for your support to my request. The Blue Point Switch Machine. Are they stall or solenoid type machines?
They are manual, with push/knobs and pushrod mechanisms. I’ll be showing how to install that next week, as soon as my order arrives.
Hi Larry I am changing a graham farish hst to dcc and installing a corelass motor it is a poole hst 125 not split chassis OK got the motor in with two wires orange and gray THIS IT where do take the power wires from for the picks ups for power can you advise me me thank you Brian
Ps like the uk version of your channel keep up the good work,
The pickup wires go to the red and black wires on the decoder. Red is for the right rail pickup and black the left rail pickup.
@Model Railroading Hi Larry thank you for your reply to my inquiry but just need to now where to put the red and black on the loco body to make the track pick ups thank you Brian
Brian, are there no wires from the pickups on the trucks (bogies) that originally went to the motor brush contacts?
By the time you buy all the parts needed for a Blue Point installation and count the effort used in the installation, you could have mounted a Tortoise or a compact MP1 for about the same price and 1/2 the effort.
Harbor Freight Tools make and sell small size pliers and cutters in their Pittsburg tool line Their small Diagonal cutters cut piano wire quite well in fairly tight and or close places. These tools are quite cheap and can be purchased either individually or in a set, either from their web site or at their physical store, if you have one near you. ;-)
I’ll check since we have a Harbor Freight store near me.
@@TheDCCGuy The set I got had either 6 or 8 different tools with orange handle covers in a black plastic pouch. I think they cost around $15 too. Harbor Freight is a good place for medium quality stuff for low cost. The pliers are cheap enough to be easily replaced if broken.
so much for this hobby. those turn outs are like 40 bucks each ha ha
great video, great series, cant wait for the rest
Hi there, I'm a newby. Can these switch machines be used for Peco and or Atlas tracks?
The turnouts in the video are Peco, and they should work with any other brands.
@@TheDCCGuy I have used them with Atlas also and they worked just fine 🙂
Thanks Larry, this is the one I was missing on the Blue Points.
For the Tortoises, I replace the wire they give you with heavier wire so the Tortoise works better. Would heavier wire work for these devices?
I replace the wire on my Tortoises too but I don’t think it would help with these, but I can give it a try on one if using the larger diameter hole doesn’t work. I really think it is due to the length of travel.
Please do a video of the next part hooking the control rods up to the fascia.....
It’s coming but unfortunately Walthers was out of stock on the pushrods. However I was able to find an alternate source and order some today. I will have to delay that video for a week but that will allow me to start building the ladder into the freight/goods yard a d get some track laid in there.
Hi Larry,
Please give me the website of your hobbyshop dealer, meaybe he would a bulk pack of the blue point switch machines order from germany, too?
These blue point switch machines are ideal for me to use them with a mechanical lever bench and mechanical interlocking register.
It made me sad the humpyard levers are no more available before I could order some of them, so I still build my own lever frames with additional interlockinh registers, two differen interlocking registers are in my focus, the british Saxby & Farmer Kaskade system of 1857 patent and the german Juedel System of the 1890's.
Both interlocking systems working great but needing a blue pount switching machine as addition to control frogs and points or stub turnouts or even semaphore signal arms and changing the duo LEDs for signal light switching.
I have some great Ideas how to use the blue point switching machines on my projects, so I thank you very much for your great video.
Regards,
Ingo
I buy from www.blueridgehobbies.com most of the time. I did have to get the pushrods from www.tonystrains.com as they were the only ones with them. I suggest sending them each an email inquiring about international purchases. You also might consider an eBay search and check with some hobby dealers in your country who specialize in US hobby products.
@@TheDCCGuy Hey Larry,
Thank you very much for your information about your preferred hobby shops.
Me I allready did made a purchase from an hobby shop at Eltopia, WA to buy hundreds of double hung Windows from Tichy Train for my self built buildings in H0 Scale.
I allready found an hobby shop in germany what sells the blue point switch machines and its operating cords and tubes for low prices but have some thanks again for you giving hobby shop addresses.
Shame these arent readily available in the UK. Nice idea.
My search says that Coastal DCC, NG Trains, Mech Models, and the UK ebay site, among others all offer them. Do a search and see what comes up. You also can order from US suppliers like MicroMark. I get shipments from Hattons all the time-am impatiently awaiting the Dapol GWR moguls right now!
Nice info!