I've been a Peco user for over 25 years. And Yes.... Us Old Farts have had Debates about Insulfrog vs ElectroFrog!! I used to go through the bother of complex wiring ElectroFrog Turnouts... They're VERY useful for DC Layouts and DCC Layouts. I've messed with Frog Juicers and other switching products... However, since I discovered, and fell madly in love with Keep-Alives 10 years ago..... DEAD Frogs are just fine!! 😁😜 My whole Roster has Keep-Alives - and even my 0-4-0s sail right through dead Frogs! 😊 Disclosure: I did have to get all Saddle Tank 0-4-0s.... Because they NEEDED no less than the KA-2 to store enough juice!! But they will cruise right through anything but #10 Turnouts at speed step 3!! (On 128 steps) So like I said, that Frog War will likely go on long after we're gone. That's just my personal take. I'd never try to convince anyone that Insulfrogs are better or worse! They're just how I like to run my Railroad... And since there's NOBODY near me to share my Layout, I don't get a lot of flak!! 😜 ..... Although I'd love the chance to share the Pacific Belt RR with SOMEONE. 😞 Maybe when my Grandbabies get in their teens. 😊 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Thanks very much for this video. Even though I've read similar information on Allan Gartner's website, sometimes pictures (or videos) are the best way to really explain and understand something like this. Excellent information.
I really enjoy your information! Thanks for the great job! I had to take my Western Maryland RR down in 2007 and have decided to try again! I have twenty engines form the nineties that i installed decoders in in the late 90's. All Digitrax. I just bought a new Digitrax system. I never had a problem with my Atlas turnouts, but now my one and only #6 shorts out occasionally. Not always, but not infrequently either. It has a plastic frog and I am just using track power from the one and only three foot section of track I own....LOL. The engine I am running doesn't matter. They all do the same. Sometimes perfect, sometimes not. I am at a loss for a cure. Thanks for doing what you do! I have really enjoyed the videos!
Check the joint on the heel end of the frog. Some wheel treads are wide enough to reach over the gap and touch the other frog rail and short out. A fox is to paint clear nail polish e to prevent shorts.
I built my handlaid turnouts using the Fast Tracks method. I Isolated the frogs by cutting gaps with a jewelers saw. I simply power the frogs with a hex juicer. I don't like using the tortoise to switch the polarity at the frog. I've been running them this way for over a decade with zero issues. Definately another option if one hasn't already invested a ton in manufactured turnouts.
Yes, Frog Juicers work very well. I mainly use Tortoise or iP Digitals to switch frog power but I do have several applications where Frog Juicers are installed. For example I use them on my double crossover, my turntable, and my gantlet track.
Hey Larry! That looks like a lot of work for just one turnout. I am still glad I found your channel. Great video, keep up the good work. Thanks, Russ from Oregon
Yes, it is but it goes very quickly once you have done a couple. Plus it is cheaper than tossing them and buying new ones, or hand building them. I have a box full that I bought off a fellow years ago when he went to N scale so it costs me practically nothing now for each one.
With regards what you do by cutting the rails, I use Tortoise point motors on the majority of the layout, so use both sets of switches to power the points, linking the two switches at the centre legs, this connection goes to the frog then each of the switches supplies power to the rails as needed when the point is thrown, or not thrown respectfully.
I totally agree with your comment regards the Peco insulfrog turnout because the 0-6-0 loco's would stall on the frog, I fitted stay alive but removed all of my double slips which are insufrog. Every one of my points I use are electrofrog.
New sub here I am glad i found you I hope i well learn something from you. I use the Peco turnouts and I guess I'm doing them the right way. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the great info. One thing, please put the turnouts down on the table rather than waving them around. Constant motion makes it hard to see what you're referencing and at least for me, makes me dizzy!
Very good video to make decisions about dcc turnouts. You mentioned additional videos on DCC Guide Channel. I’m have difficulty finding. The search feature doesn’t show it. Please help me find it. Thanks for a great video.
OH MY GOSH, Larry i have been pulling my hair out. thanks for explaining this. I ruined 2 Atlas custom turnouts trying to solder the frog. I had no idea they were aluminum and no idea that i was supposed to use a screw. EHHHHH
Great video. Actually, my favorite method is leaving the Peco Electrofog turnouts exactly as they are and using hex frog juicers. I'm ready to go in two steps. And wheelbase dosen't matter planning on using mostly Peco for the rebuild and Maybe ME code 70 for the yardage.
Peco electrofrogs are about as reliable a switch as you can buy and Tam Valley Depot frog juicers are certainly install and forget for reliable frog power control. Even so I still find it worthwhile to install jumpers between the stock and closure rails.
Hey Larry, please have thanks very much again for your turnout videos of this one and the before one. Please excuse my poor british school english. Onto my Prussian Kingdom Layout of my fictional private L.T.E. roadname in the year of 1908 I do have some security stub tournouts, they are DCC friendly, too. In 1846 a german inventor created a mechanismn for stub turnouts that will allow to protect against derailments, if a vehicle comes from the wrong ,,dead end side" of the stub turnout. It could be added to existing stub turnouts easily, so the railroad companies did not buying and installing a completely turnout again. If a railroad vehicle come fron wrong side of the stub turnout than the wheel flanges will press iron rails into into other direction so that the stub turnout will change the diverging direction to that rail from where the vehicle is coming and a derailment will not happen. In 1868 the VDEV (a private association of technical railroad engineers of all german bigger railroad administrations and several foreighn railroad engineers) decided not to allow stub turnouts onto mainlines which are not security stub turnouts. Most of the prototype railroads used this date to equip modern turnouts to their railroad lines. In my cause I am using a few ,,security" stub turnouts as older ones onto branchlines or sidings and one ,,forgotton" in a mainline use. In other causes I use Ga(u)ntlet ,,Turnouts" onto a doubble line railroad overcrossing a ,,single line" bridge, with pointless turnouts and slinged track between the two turnouts to use the absolute minimum track space by two separated tracks onto a ,,single line" bridge. The Ga(u)ntlets are DCC friendly, too. Their Frog polarity needed to be changed by using a Relais. By normal turnouts used with an underneath throwbar metal piano wire of the switch machine. Two contacts coming from both stockrails can be used to change the polarity of the frog by a very easy and cheap method when connecting the throwbar piano wire which grabs into the plastic or wooden point tie wirh the DCC friendly frog, so the polarity of the frog can be changed by turnout switching. Describing it in words is sometimes a little problem, better would be a method of communication where I could add pictures or drawings, is there any eMail Adress I could to have contact with you?
Aaaaaand your favorite turnouts (MicroEngineering) future is in question. ME has announced in the Dec MR magazine that they are up for sale, possibly leaving us with Atlas, Peco and Walthers primarily.
@@TheDCCGuy good thing! I stocked up on Peco #6 Elecrofrog turnouts when they were discontinued/replaced with the Unifrog. As it turns out, the Unifrog have the same property to short near the frog as the Insulfrog turnouts. Peco has acknowledged this and plans a redesign of the Unifrog.
I finally found the ad in the magazine and it sounds like they are making a real effort to sell the company so hopefully they will find a taker or stick with it themselves. ME is too good a line to just abandon it and it is the only one still making products in the US. I was able to out in an order last Friday and have been told by my dealer he expects it by this Friday and I ordered 60 pieces of flextrack and 6 turnouts.
Hi, Larry, I like your show, which is about the turnout tracks selection. My equation is which is turnout switch either Peco model cod PCO-SL-95, and 96 or Micro Engineering (I DON NOT KNOW THE MODEL #) to use it for making a LADDER TRACK #4. Thank YOU
I suggest you take a loom at MicroEngineering ladder track turnouts, they are specially designed to creat more compact yard ladders than normal turnouts.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi, Larry, thank you for advising me to try loom at Micro Engineering so I like to know which models or items number I can use it. Regards to you
Larry question Walthers turnouts, they have made a version 948-8827 and a newer version 83062 delivery due this August, description of the 8827 states DCC friendly,picture shows a gap at frog and the closer rail looks like it is insulated, I need one for my layout,just delivery for new version is in August hobby store has a 8827 in stock, what do you think
I’ll be interested to see the new versions when available. I have a number of the older DCC Friendly Walthers turnouts on my Piedmont Southern and could likely use more.
I have a new Atlas Customline turnout that has a small brass loop located on the outside edge of the ties under the frog. Can this be used as a connection to power the frog? If so may I use the Tam Valley Frog Juicer to power it? I don't plan to use turnout motors like like a Tortoise. Just manual throws. I'm very new to DCC so please excuse the question if it's a bit simple.
Yes, it is my understanding that Atlas has added those tabs for powering frogs. If you have a multimeter you can do a continuity test by setting it to measure resistance and then touching one probe to the tab and the other to the frog. The resistance should read “0” . And Frog Juicers are a good option for powering frogs when manual throws are used.
Question; if you have Shinohara turnouts, that weren't produced for Walthers, is it easy to convert them to be DCC friendly? I have several (black box SHINOHARA) that I tested with DC and they were fine.
Yes they can be converted fairly easily and that topic is on my list to do. I have a box full of them myself that I bought from a fellow who went N-scale and I use them from time to time on industry sidings. I’ll try to move them up in the order, so nang in there.
@@TheDCCGuy I am not in a huge rush, so please don't hurry on my account. My layout is in storage as I have no place to put it since I moved just yet. Whenever you can would be an amazing help and thank you for getting back to me.
Well, then now would be a great time to do the conversions assuming you can dig them out. At any rate it is a good time for me to doit since I did the two videos on turnouts recently.
@@TheDCCGuy, yes I can get them out. Debating if taking the sections out (2- 4'x'8's) one at a time or taking the turnouts off and doing them individually. One of the turnouts is a double crossover turnout. I will wait for videos, regardless they will be helpful I am sure.
Thanks Larry…What are the best turnouts for DCC. I’m fixing to purchase about 11 of these and want the most DCC friendly, best looking turnouts for s shelf switching lay.out..??
Larry, I am building an N-scale 4 x 8 layout, using mostly Atlas code 55 track and turnouts, but several Micro-Engineering code 55 TOs. I thought I was going to need to use insulated joiners to isolate the frog rails, but close examination & testing shows there are tiny insulated gaps- no hot connection - between the frog point and the short 1-1/4" frog rails beyond that. It looks to me like using insulated rail joiners on the frog rails would leave a 1-1/4" dead rail gap on the inside rails beyond the turnout. Based on this thinking, to provide isolated divisions I need only insulate the outside rails beyond turnouts. But that leaves me with insulated joints staggered by 1-1/4" (1-1/2" with the M-E code 55 turnouts). Is that a problem?
One good thing about ME turnouts is that the frog rails are not live and can be connected directly to the adjacent running rails for power. I don’t see any potential issues with the gaps.
Hi, Larry. Happy new year, I like to know I should isolate the both rial end of main tracks with the Atlas turnout because I am using DCC System for warring. Thank you
My question is if the bulb and circuit chip shut down frying your engines why do we worry so much with turnouts. I get we need to use plastic joiner to prevent shorts. If I hook up correctly from your video 109 then wouldn’t I be safe to run as long I stay in room watching for lights. My layout will be small to medium size where I should be able to see whole layout
The answer is that electrons travel at near the speed of light whereas light bulbs and circuits do not operate that quickly. Therefor even a fast acting circuit breaker will not prevent the deleterious effects of a short circuit on the track. Instead it is important to prevent shorts in the first place and that is where DCC Friendly practices with turnouts and wiring, etc. come in to play. Light bulbs and circuit breakers are mainly there to prevent damage to boosters and not to protect decoders.
I need something for a siding like an industrial siding but the straight track I wanna put it on is very short. Have any recommendations? I need something so I can fit cars in I have some simple kind of switch but I can pull in :(
Yes, you can use the switches built into a Tortoise for autoreversing but it can in some cases create an intermittent short as the internal contacts move. I showed this in the video I did on ways to handle reverse loops using devices that require a short to activate.
Jon-sorry but no I don’t. I have gotten occasional questions about it over the past few years but it really is the kind of thing I would need to have them send me a review sample to work with and given the cost I doubt that will happen. Plus, every time I check they seem to be out of stock at Walthers, so I guess they must sell them as fast as they make them.
How do you mean that? There are ways to automate switch activation using accessory decodes-take a look at the DCC Specialties PSX series. Now if you mean will the loco wheels cause it to happen that is a bit trickier since you need some way of keeping the points from just flopping around and causing derailments. So normally this would not work. There are ways to use a spring to keep the points thrown one way normally but be light enough for the wheels to force them to open, but that can e tricky to set up and not get light cars to derail.
Model Railroading Yes, I want the loco wheels to set the switch. I don’t want an electric or manual switch. I want the train to travel a circuit clockwise on the first pass, counter clockwise, the second; & alternate indefinitely. The simplest circuit I know of for this is 2 bulbs (loops) connected by a single track. If the loco wheels set switch, the train will change direction forever. Thanks.
OK, I see what you mean. I use flextrack so it is a simple procedure to curve it to meet the end of the points. If you are using set track with preconfigured curvature then I would go ahead and cut short sections of flextrack to make the transition smooth.
Great Video .... but i have a request ... is it possible to explain what the best choice is for using the automatic polarisation of the turnout. I heard about a autofrog , but someone told me this is a dangerous option because of the short cut principle. i'm very in doubt, because this autofrog (gaugemaster) is easy to install, with switches is difficult adjusting but very safe. i'm hoping on a explanation of a expert ..... can you help me ?
The idea is to (1) provide power to the frog so short wheelbase locos won’t stall on a dead frog, and (2) to get the correct polarity at the frog so you won’t get a short circuit. I have no idea what your friend meant with that. The auto frog juicers detect a short circuit and correct the polarity before your system sees it and shuts down. I have never heard of any damage in the process.
Hey you, modern AC System 3 rail modelrailroaders don't using uplifting 3rd middle rain power pickups onto turnouts and crossing and also do polarity changing areas of their turnouts but in other areas than of what DC and DCC users onto two rail tracks going to use. The closure rails will be needed to change the polarity of middle third rail so that there is no need to lift up the 3rd rail power pickup over the closure rails but this requiring changing of the polarity to the third rail...!
Hi. I have built and unfortunately never finished (due to turns of personal events) several layouts up to the framing and track laying stage. I learned a lot, made mistakes...but. Shit happens. ETC. My plan now? A switching layout, based on the space constraints I currently have (HO)...When it comes to turnouts? I bought a whole bunch of those 'green' ones, and they work great. When installed correctly.
I've been a Peco user for over 25 years. And Yes.... Us Old Farts have had Debates about Insulfrog vs ElectroFrog!! I used to go through the bother of complex wiring ElectroFrog Turnouts... They're VERY useful for DC Layouts and DCC Layouts. I've messed with Frog Juicers and other switching products...
However, since I discovered, and fell madly in love with Keep-Alives 10 years ago.....
DEAD Frogs are just fine!! 😁😜 My whole Roster has Keep-Alives - and even my 0-4-0s sail right through dead Frogs! 😊
Disclosure: I did have to get all Saddle Tank 0-4-0s.... Because they NEEDED no less than the KA-2 to store enough juice!! But they will cruise right through anything but #10 Turnouts at speed step 3!! (On 128 steps)
So like I said, that Frog War will likely go on long after we're gone. That's just my personal take. I'd never try to convince anyone that Insulfrogs are better or worse! They're just how I like to run my Railroad... And since there's NOBODY near me to share my Layout, I don't get a lot of flak!! 😜
..... Although I'd love the chance to share the Pacific Belt RR with SOMEONE. 😞 Maybe when my Grandbabies get in their teens. 😊
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
And thank you for not having loud rock music blasting at the introduction of your MR videos. Great video content for sure. Much obliged.
Thanks very much for this video. Even though I've read similar information on Allan Gartner's website, sometimes pictures (or videos) are the best way to really explain and understand something like this. Excellent information.
Very good tutorial. Looking at the real turnout I could follow along easily and understood completely.
I'm glad you talked about Peco. I use Peco track and switches exclusively. New subscriber, too!
Glad to have you with us-Larry
I really enjoy your information! Thanks for the great job! I had to take my Western Maryland RR down in 2007 and have decided to try again! I have twenty engines form the nineties that i installed decoders in in the late 90's. All Digitrax. I just bought a new Digitrax system. I never had a problem with my Atlas turnouts, but now my one and only #6 shorts out occasionally. Not always, but not infrequently either. It has a plastic frog and I am just using track power from the one and only three foot section of track I own....LOL. The engine I am running doesn't matter. They all do the same. Sometimes perfect, sometimes not. I am at a loss for a cure. Thanks for doing what you do! I have really enjoyed the videos!
Check the joint on the heel end of the frog. Some wheel treads are wide enough to reach over the gap and touch the other frog rail and short out. A fox is to paint clear nail polish e to prevent shorts.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you!! I will try!
Lot's of great information on turnouts! You did a great job explaining it as well.
I built my handlaid turnouts using the Fast Tracks method. I Isolated the frogs by cutting gaps with a jewelers saw. I simply power the frogs with a hex juicer. I don't like using the tortoise to switch the polarity at the frog. I've been running them this way for over a decade with zero issues. Definately another option if one hasn't already invested a ton in manufactured turnouts.
Yes, Frog Juicers work very well. I mainly use Tortoise or iP Digitals to switch frog power but I do have several applications where Frog Juicers are installed. For example I use them on my double crossover, my turntable, and my gantlet track.
Hey Larry! That looks like a lot of work for just one turnout. I am still glad I found your channel. Great video, keep up the good work. Thanks, Russ from Oregon
Yes, it is but it goes very quickly once you have done a couple. Plus it is cheaper than tossing them and buying new ones, or hand building them. I have a box full that I bought off a fellow years ago when he went to N scale so it costs me practically nothing now for each one.
With regards what you do by cutting the rails, I use Tortoise point motors on the majority of the layout, so use both sets of switches to power the points, linking the two switches at the centre legs, this connection goes to the frog then each of the switches supplies power to the rails as needed when the point is thrown, or not thrown respectfully.
Interesting approach.
I totally agree with your comment regards the Peco insulfrog turnout because the 0-6-0 loco's would stall on the frog, I fitted stay alive but removed all of my double slips which are insufrog. Every one of my points I use are electrofrog.
Double slips are a pain both to wire and to figure out in use. I generally avoid them, however there are places where they can be useful.
New sub here I am glad i found you I hope i well learn something from you. I use the Peco turnouts and I guess I'm doing them the right way. Thank you for sharing
thank you for great detail video on your model railroad
from Australia
Thanks for the great info. One thing, please put the turnouts down on the table rather than waving them around. Constant motion makes it hard to see what you're referencing and at least for me, makes me dizzy!
Very good video to make decisions about dcc turnouts. You mentioned additional videos on DCC Guide Channel. I’m have difficulty finding. The search feature doesn’t show it. Please help me find it. Thanks for a great video.
Sorry but I said “DCC Guy channel” which is this one.
OH MY GOSH, Larry i have been pulling my hair out. thanks for explaining this. I ruined 2 Atlas custom turnouts trying to solder the frog. I had no idea they were aluminum and no idea that i was supposed to use a screw. EHHHHH
I forgot to mention that Atlas actually sells screws specifically for this purpose. Don’t know the stock number but it should be easy to find.
Larry this is a great video lots of information
Great video. Actually, my favorite method is leaving the Peco Electrofog turnouts exactly as they are and using hex frog juicers. I'm ready to go in two steps. And wheelbase dosen't matter planning on using mostly Peco for the rebuild and Maybe ME code 70 for the yardage.
Yep, these are a great combination, no soldering really necessary and very reliable.
Peco electrofrogs are about as reliable a switch as you can buy and Tam Valley Depot frog juicers are certainly install and forget for reliable frog power control. Even so I still find it worthwhile to install jumpers between the stock and closure rails.
Hey Larry, please have thanks very much again for your turnout videos of this one and the before one.
Please excuse my poor british school english.
Onto my Prussian Kingdom Layout of my fictional private L.T.E. roadname in the year of 1908 I do have some security stub tournouts, they are DCC friendly, too.
In 1846 a german inventor created a mechanismn for stub turnouts that will allow to protect against derailments, if a vehicle comes from the wrong ,,dead end side" of the stub turnout. It could be added to existing stub turnouts easily, so the railroad companies did not buying and installing a completely turnout again.
If a railroad vehicle come fron wrong side of the stub turnout than the wheel flanges will press iron rails into into other direction so that the stub turnout will change the diverging direction to that rail from where the vehicle is coming and a derailment will not happen.
In 1868 the VDEV (a private association of technical railroad engineers of all german bigger railroad administrations and several foreighn railroad engineers) decided not to allow stub turnouts onto mainlines which are not security stub turnouts. Most of the prototype railroads used this date to equip modern turnouts to their railroad lines.
In my cause I am using a few ,,security" stub turnouts as older ones onto branchlines or sidings and one ,,forgotton" in a mainline use.
In other causes I use Ga(u)ntlet ,,Turnouts" onto a doubble line railroad overcrossing a ,,single line" bridge, with pointless turnouts and slinged track between the two turnouts to use the absolute minimum track space by two separated tracks onto a ,,single line" bridge.
The Ga(u)ntlets are DCC friendly, too.
Their Frog polarity needed to be changed by using a Relais.
By normal turnouts used with an underneath throwbar metal piano wire of the switch machine. Two contacts coming from both stockrails can be used to change the polarity of the frog by a very easy and cheap method when connecting the throwbar piano wire which grabs into the plastic or wooden point tie wirh the DCC friendly frog, so the polarity of the frog can be changed by turnout switching.
Describing it in words is sometimes a little problem, better would be a method of communication where I could add pictures or drawings, is there any eMail Adress I could to have contact with you?
I think I understand your very complete description. We had stub switches here too. As well as spring switches.
Aaaaaand your favorite turnouts (MicroEngineering) future is in question. ME has announced in the Dec MR magazine that they are up for sale, possibly leaving us with Atlas, Peco and Walthers primarily.
I just ordered enough track and turnouts to finish the Piedmont Southern.
@@TheDCCGuy good thing! I stocked up on Peco #6 Elecrofrog turnouts when they were discontinued/replaced with the Unifrog. As it turns out, the Unifrog have the same property to short near the frog as the Insulfrog turnouts. Peco has acknowledged this and plans a redesign of the Unifrog.
I finally found the ad in the magazine and it sounds like they are making a real effort to sell the company so hopefully they will find a taker or stick with it themselves. ME is too good a line to just abandon it and it is the only one still making products in the US. I was able to out in an order last Friday and have been told by my dealer he expects it by this Friday and I ordered 60 pieces of flextrack and 6 turnouts.
Hi, Larry, I like your show, which is about the turnout tracks selection. My equation is which is turnout switch either Peco model cod PCO-SL-95, and 96 or Micro Engineering (I DON NOT KNOW THE MODEL #) to use it for making a LADDER TRACK #4. Thank YOU
I suggest you take a loom at MicroEngineering ladder track turnouts, they are specially designed to creat more compact yard ladders than normal turnouts.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you Larry for your support to my request. Have a good day
@@TheDCCGuy Hi, Larry, thank you for advising me to try loom at Micro Engineering so I like to know which models or items number I can use it. Regards to you
I am looking for your support to my request. Thank you
Larry question Walthers turnouts, they have made a version 948-8827 and a newer version 83062 delivery due this August, description of the 8827 states DCC friendly,picture shows a gap at frog and the closer rail looks like it is insulated, I need one for my layout,just delivery for new version is in August hobby store has a 8827 in stock, what do you think
I’ll be interested to see the new versions when available. I have a number of the older DCC Friendly Walthers turnouts on my Piedmont Southern and could likely use more.
I have a new Atlas Customline turnout that has a small brass loop located on the outside edge of the ties under the frog. Can this be used as a connection to power the frog? If so may I use the Tam Valley Frog Juicer to power it? I don't plan to use turnout motors like like a Tortoise. Just manual throws. I'm very new to DCC so please excuse the question if it's a bit simple.
Yes, it is my understanding that Atlas has added those tabs for powering frogs. If you have a multimeter you can do a continuity test by setting it to measure resistance and then touching one probe to the tab and the other to the frog. The resistance should read “0” . And Frog Juicers are a good option for powering frogs when manual throws are used.
Question; if you have Shinohara turnouts, that weren't produced for Walthers, is it easy to convert them to be DCC friendly? I have several (black box SHINOHARA) that I tested with DC and they were fine.
Yes they can be converted fairly easily and that topic is on my list to do. I have a box full of them myself that I bought from a fellow who went N-scale and I use them from time to time on industry sidings. I’ll try to move them up in the order, so nang in there.
@@TheDCCGuy I am not in a huge rush, so please don't hurry on my account. My layout is in storage as I have no place to put it since I moved just yet. Whenever you can would be an amazing help and thank you for getting back to me.
Well, then now would be a great time to do the conversions assuming you can dig them out. At any rate it is a good time for me to doit since I did the two videos on turnouts recently.
@@TheDCCGuy, yes I can get them out. Debating if taking the sections out (2- 4'x'8's) one at a time or taking the turnouts off and doing them individually. One of the turnouts is a double crossover turnout. I will wait for videos, regardless they will be helpful I am sure.
Thanks Larry…What are the best turnouts for DCC. I’m fixing to purchase about 11 of these and want the most DCC friendly, best looking turnouts for s shelf switching lay.out..??
I have mostly used Micro Engineering but more recently have found I like the Walthers products a lot.
Larry, I am building an N-scale 4 x 8 layout, using mostly Atlas code 55 track and turnouts, but several Micro-Engineering code 55 TOs. I thought I was going to need to use insulated joiners to isolate the frog rails, but close examination & testing shows there are tiny insulated gaps- no hot connection - between the frog point and the short 1-1/4" frog rails beyond that. It looks to me like using insulated rail joiners on the frog rails would leave a 1-1/4" dead rail gap on the inside rails beyond the turnout.
Based on this thinking, to provide isolated divisions I need only insulate the outside rails beyond turnouts. But that leaves me with insulated joints staggered by 1-1/4" (1-1/2" with the M-E code 55 turnouts). Is that a problem?
One good thing about ME turnouts is that the frog rails are not live and can be connected directly to the adjacent running rails for power. I don’t see any potential issues with the gaps.
@@TheDCCGuy - Much appreciated - your reply here, and to the DIY DCC system questions.
Hi, Larry. Happy new year, I like to know I should isolate the both rial end of main tracks with the Atlas turnout because I am using DCC System for warring. Thank you
My question is if the bulb and circuit chip shut down frying your engines why do we worry so much with turnouts. I get we need to use plastic joiner to prevent shorts. If I hook up correctly from your video 109 then wouldn’t I be safe to run as long I stay in room watching for lights. My layout will be small to medium size where I should be able to see whole layout
The answer is that electrons travel at near the speed of light whereas light bulbs and circuits do not operate that quickly. Therefor even a fast acting circuit breaker will not prevent the deleterious effects of a short circuit on the track. Instead it is important to prevent shorts in the first place and that is where DCC Friendly practices with turnouts and wiring, etc. come in to play. Light bulbs and circuit breakers are mainly there to prevent damage to boosters and not to protect decoders.
I need something for a siding like an industrial siding but the straight track I wanna put it on is very short. Have any recommendations? I need something so I can fit cars in I have some simple kind of switch but I can pull in :(
Can a powered turnout switch that is tied into a loop be handled with the Tortise machine only or is an autoreverser required?
Yes, you can use the switches built into a Tortoise for autoreversing but it can in some cases create an intermittent short as the internal contacts move. I showed this in the video I did on ways to handle reverse loops using devices that require a short to activate.
Do you have a video on the Walthers Cornerstone Advanced Control Module for there turn table
Jon-sorry but no I don’t. I have gotten occasional questions about it over the past few years but it really is the kind of thing I would need to have them send me a review sample to work with and given the cost I doubt that will happen. Plus, every time I check they seem to be out of stock at Walthers, so I guess they must sell them as fast as they make them.
Sir, what radius turnouts you recommend for my Bachmann Santa Fe 2-10-4 HO scale loco
If they have blind drivers on the model they probably can make it through no. 5 but it won’t look pretty. I’d go with no. 6.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you sir. Regards
Question: Can the passage of a train from the rear of a turnout to the front change the direction of the switch? Thanks
How do you mean that? There are ways to automate switch activation using accessory decodes-take a look at the DCC Specialties PSX series. Now if you mean will the loco wheels cause it to happen that is a bit trickier since you need some way of keeping the points from just flopping around and causing derailments. So normally this would not work. There are ways to use a spring to keep the points thrown one way normally but be light enough for the wheels to force them to open, but that can e tricky to set up and not get light cars to derail.
Model Railroading Yes, I want the loco wheels to set the switch. I don’t want an electric or manual switch. I want the train to travel a circuit clockwise on the first pass, counter clockwise, the second; & alternate indefinitely. The simplest circuit I know of for this is 2 bulbs (loops) connected by a single track. If the loco wheels set switch, the train will change direction forever. Thanks.
how do you make a point corrector for an Atlas no.6 turnout?
What’s a point corrector?
@@TheDCCGuy it's a piece of curve track to bring the diverging route of the turnout parallel to the through route, used for sidings
OK, I see what you mean. I use flextrack so it is a simple procedure to curve it to meet the end of the points. If you are using set track with preconfigured curvature then I would go ahead and cut short sections of flextrack to make the transition smooth.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you very much sir
How to power up a atlas turnout. For dc set
Great Video .... but i have a request ...
is it possible to explain what the best choice is for using the automatic polarisation of the turnout. I heard about a autofrog , but someone told me this is a dangerous option because of the short cut principle.
i'm very in doubt, because this autofrog (gaugemaster) is easy to install, with switches is difficult adjusting but very safe.
i'm hoping on a explanation of a expert ..... can you help me ?
The idea is to (1) provide power to the frog so short wheelbase locos won’t stall on a dead frog, and (2) to get the correct polarity at the frog so you won’t get a short circuit. I have no idea what your friend meant with that. The auto frog juicers detect a short circuit and correct the polarity before your system sees it and shuts down. I have never heard of any damage in the process.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks again. your explanation is clear. Is this also for these auto frogs with a relais ?
grtz eric
I've noticed that your curved turnout has smaller radius than those which Peco supplied, at the time I bought mine.
Is yours the large radius version? Mine is medium which I believe is #6 in US terms. The large is a #8 I think.
I once thought PECO was good until constant shorts, so micro engineering it is.
Dobry film. Wybacz że w ojczystym piszę.
I have stopped laughing at 3 rail track.
Hey you, modern AC System 3 rail modelrailroaders don't using uplifting 3rd middle rain power pickups onto turnouts and crossing and also do polarity changing areas of their turnouts but in other areas than of what DC and DCC users onto two rail tracks going to use.
The closure rails will be needed to change the polarity of middle third rail so that there is no need to lift up the 3rd rail power pickup over the closure rails but this requiring changing of the polarity to the third rail...!
Hi. I have built and unfortunately never finished (due to turns of personal events) several layouts up to the framing and track laying stage. I learned a lot, made mistakes...but. Shit happens. ETC. My plan now? A switching layout, based on the space constraints I currently have (HO)...When it comes to turnouts? I bought a whole bunch of those 'green' ones, and they work great. When installed correctly.