Turnout Roadbed, A Fascia, And Buried Track (148)
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2020
- There was a lot of interest in the video on creating buried track in the yard so it seems appropriate that I promised to give you a look at how it came out. So we'll start off with a look at the plaster pour now that it has set up and dried. There was a little vertical shrinkage but everything is tight around the sleepers/ties and the rails, and the rails themselves came clean. I've hooked up my NCE PowerCab temporarily and wi'll see how well a small steamer negotiates the trip down the tracks with a couple of coal wagons. After that we'll look at adding a fascia to the front fo the modules--a very quick and easy job that yields a finished look fast. Finally I'll show how I create roadbed shaped for turnouts and give you a few tips for getting a smooth and free flowing installation. So let's get started!
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Outstanding instructor. The instructor is only as good as his methods, materials and patience. You excel.
A very wise model railroader, Miles Hale, shared his philosophy with me on instructing others.
If you explain and the listener fails to grasp the lesson, it's your fault. You failed to explain the subject clearly enough to meet the needs of the listener. Explain it again.
If the listener fails to grasp the lesson after the second time, it is still your failure. Adjust and explain again.
If after three times the listener has still failed to grasp the lesson...
It is still your fault for not explaining it correctly. Never blame the listener.
Sage advice from a wonderful mentor and friend that has served me well through the years.
This has to be the one of the best MRR channels I have ever watched for starting my layout. I have learned so much and still have more videos of yours to go through. Thank you for sharing!
Don’t overdose on them but enjoy!
You're my inspiration Larry. As soon as i get settled in to my new house i am going to start my modular layout
Looking forward to watching this later. Update I watched it and As always full of very helpful information.
I installed some foldable beverage holders on the support legs. Best idea ever for me, if I don’t mind saying so! 😂🍻
I have a friend who uses the New Rail Models version on his layout. I decide to go with shelves along the fascia since my aisles are wide enough to accommodate them. When designing the Piedmont Southern I decided to keep the aisles wide enough to allow people to pass without rubbing butts. My main section has over 10’ between the fascias.
Larry as usual you hit another out of park.
You make things look easy
👍👍👍
Thank you Larry, very clear and useful tutorial!
had to sub, just so much useful info. I dont even have a layout, but still have all the trains and rollingstock. I do plan on building something someday, and these are invaluable tutorials and ideas....Thank you!
Glad to have you with us!
Thanks Larry!
Hi Larry. In the UK we call that 'masonite' Hardboard and it's readily available in DIY stores, same with the cap washers.
Great, glad to hear it is as readily available there as here. I also use it to form the vertical support for my backscenes as you will soon see. Gotta get my order in to Hattons for those! I am holding out until Peco gets caught up on backorders for platforms and a couple other items I need. I just wish someone would do a backscene of the Devon countryside out around Moretonhampstead. I plan to use ID Backscenes “Old Mill Town” as a stand in.
It's called "Masonite" in Canada too.
Those are cup washers and either flat head or oval head screws.
I am currently modeling a huge rolling stock repair shop. Rescar in Dubois, PA. I have purchased 2 Bachmann car shop kits that im going to scartch build together as one large unit and 2 Micro Engineering dual engine houses as well with a pikestuff manufacturing factory office which I am very excited about, this project calls for alot of track buried in cement so I am grateful for this video. Because now I may use the foam and carve it out like you did here, not sure yet. But thanks for the idea.
Another option is to build a frame of wood strip around the track area as deep as the rails, place the track, and pour your plaster over the entire area. Once it starts to set up (goes green) run an old car over the tracks to make ruts in the plaster-an old car with pizza cutter flanges works well for this as they cut deeper. Once the plaster has set up further use a dental scraper available fro Micro-Mark or All Electronics or eBay to clean out the flange ways even more. I plan to use this technique for Jefferson Street in Lynchburg on the Piedmont Southern where trains ran down the middle of the street.
@@TheDCCGuy Hey, Thats a great idea!!!! Thank you!
Now, if you were going to be imbedding rail into concrete like this project I mentioned above, would you think it would be more suitable to use code 80 for the height Or would you go with code 55 for the more realistic look. I also was going to go with Atlas track. But now im kind of reconsidering using Peco. Im thinking when it comes to durability peco may hold up longer. going to add turnout motors as well. Im between the tortoise machines and walthers easy to use system. Its a bit nerve racking considering the mount of money ive invested already making just minor decisions. 😄
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Larry, using a modified truss head screw is a lot easier for attaching facia and works just as well.
Yes, truss heads would work and just be one piece to deal with. But I have a box of 100 washers so I think I’ll stick with them for now.
@@TheDCCGuy Sounds like me, I have three boxes of modified truss head.
Nice to see some OO Great Western Railway in the USA, and the GWR 0-6-0PT (Pannier Tank),is one of my favourites and with the Autocoach.
If I could like the video twice, I would .So you have a subscribe even tho I'm DC guy :)
Works fine with DC as well as DCC. I am now up to 5 pt’s of various classes now, they are addictive.
Thank you for this. I've been thinking about a section of track buried in pavement and wondering how best to do it. In the prototypes I'm thinking of, there are no visible ties. How would fill in the area between the rails so the ties aren't visible while leaving space for the wheel flanges?
I have seen this done many different ways, the most recent by Pelle Soeborg in the Feb 2018 MR. In that case he used the same Woodland Scenics plaster as i did but he filled in the space between the rails too. Once the plaster went green (started to firm up) he cut a groove along the side of the rails suing a scalpel blade. That is the most common method whether you use plaster or actual cement.
Hi Larry your GWR themed layout is coming along a treat...looking really good..😀
Are you intending to use rail type buffer stops and/or both sleeper type..?
If so, like the Peco type, these clip to the rails so might need to fit these before ballasting commences ?
I already have some of the Peco rail type so was planning in using them.I may use a sleeper type at the end of the buried track although they take up a little more room. Both Lancarshire Models and Mainly Trains make actual GWR prototypes so I may have to order a few of them. That goods shed kit from Peco sure takes up a lot more room than I had planned for but it is a classic design so I’ll stick with it.
Masonite is called hardboard in the UK
What was the purpose of filling in the track with plaster only to scoop out plaster in between rails? I assumed you trying to simulate buried track that automobiles/trucks could drive over.
Great video as allways have allways heard that Peco insulfrog turnouts are better and less wiring is needed to install them on a DCC layout. Can you advise or maybe do a comparison video on this topic.
Thanks Jim
The issue with Insulfrogs are twofold. First they depend the physical contact at the actual points for electrical power and they don’t power the frog which can lead to stalling, especially small steal locos. Just watch some of the video reviews at Sam’ Trains, he always comments on loco stalling at the frogs and points. Another factor is they will soon be unavailable as Peco is replacing Insulfrogs and Electrofrogs with their new Unifrog design.
So would you suggest just using Unifrog turnouts at this point instead? Wiring seems to be the big issue with me. I like the blue manual switch idea for yards, is it practical with all turnouts on layouts? I apologize if this came up later in your videos, trying to get to them all but you have been very busy!
Mark
Hi Larry. Quick question. What sound chip do you have in that GWR Pannier Tank?
SoundTraxx ECO-100 UK steam with TCS KA1 keep alive and sugar cube speaker. See videos 81 & 82. I use it in all my GWR steam. It sounds like I need to turn the volume up a bit.
Very useful info on laying the cork on a turnout, much easier than the way I have been doing it. Maybe I missed it in this or the last video, but what is the reason for the recessed track?
I wanted it to look like a poorly maintained track out behind the goods shed. It also allows vehicles to cross over the buried tracks easily. I’ve seen photos of similar tracks in GWR yards with trucks (motor lorries) parked on them while loading goods.
I like the idea because is varies the ground level, adding more interest. I just needed a logical reason for it so I can work it into my layout. Thanks for the input.
Another use is for laying track down streets or in a setting with tracks in a parking lot etc. Many pulp yards have tracks laid basically on dirt and they sink into the mud over time leaving little more than the top of the rails exposed.
Hi Larry love your channel. Question the engine you used to today was a 0-6-0. I have one which came with my DCC fitted Honrby Set. Its runs badly across points. What sort of decoder do you use. Many thnaks see up the good work. Dallas
Dallas, take a look at videos 81 & 82. The Keep Alive is crucial for these short wheelbase steam locos.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks larry will do.
Here in the UK we call them 'screw cups'.
Ahh, another term to add to my growing lexicon.
You mentioned fascia or hardboard. I have been unable to locate Masonite or fascia in 4 x 8 ft. sheets. Do you recall where you obtained yours? Thanks.
I have bought it at Lowes and Home Depot. Check any of that type big box hardware/building supply store in your area.
I want to see your turnout linkages.
Friday if all goes right.
Hi I’m coming to you because I need help. My MRC prodigy express 2 is not working my locomotives have power but here’s the thing. The main power unit should have the link light on but when I press a function for each locomotive like sound the horn it doesn’t light up. I don’t know if it’s my cab or locomotives but all my locomotives run fine but when I press and function for the locomotives they do nothing. Do you know anything?
Have you gone through the trouble shooting checklist? Pay close attention to step 4.
Check the communication between the base unit and the Cab. Press 2. F2 should momentarily display on the LCD and the Link light should blink. If not, the cab address may out of the limit (20). Set the Cab to be the Master Cab (Cab #1) by the following steps. Unplug the cab. Press and hold 6 and plug in the cab. Press 1, and ENTER. If there is still no communication, send the unit in for repair.
You also might try the MRC forum on www.Groups.io as there are a lot fo folks there willing to help who regularly operate MRC DCC systems which I do not. Good luck.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you very much I tried so more than likely I’ll have to send it in for repair again thank you.
I thought you were burying track in concrete. Ties were visible. ☹️
Down at the end of track the tops of the rails are even with the foam surface and plaster, but you do have to go down a gradient to get there.
The European trains don't do it for me.
Yes, but they all run on the same roadbed and track, and DCC is the same everywhere. That’s also why I did both a UK and a US version of the trackplan for this series.
I'm a Brit living in Canada, I run OO trains on HO track, code 100 helps with 1970's and older roiling stock from Tri-ang, because of the large wheel flanges.
@@Theoriginalborgy We call those "pizza cutter wheels".
Thank you Larry. That was very helpful.