Solid editing, and the audio sounds great unlike a lot of outdoor content. Appreciate the video not being drawn out, and it’s actually useful for making a decision. Keep up the good work my man.
I’m planning on wether to get the German Adler canoe axe or the Council tool boys axe. As my first axe. I have a lot of wood in the shed and some big rounds to get through. Idk their so many axes and options idk which one to get but I narrowed it down to these two axes.
@@samiqadri1098 Get the Council Tools Boy's Axe Sport Utility model. Then get a cheap maul for those big rounds with a metal splitting wedge. You can get all of that for the same price as the Adler axe that won't be anywhere near as effective as having proper tools for the job.
S&N are made in Maine when an Amish family took over the name and patient. Still cheap just use that “best” logo. I believe if you search “The Working Axes” on google you’ll find the site.
Snow and Nealley since 1864, logged Maine and traveled the Penobscot, Kennebeck, and every other river and lake in Maine. Still made here in Maine, head handle and sheath. They say in the book they are not sharpened for shipping. Check out the Snow & Nealley Penobscot Bay Kindling Axe
"not sharpened for shipping" That's what we call a marketing department lie. It's funny when the least intelligent people on the planet, marketers, try to obfuscate.
It’s the same axe head as this HB. Just 18” Handle. You can buy just the head for around $40 and put your own handle like I did! It takes and holds an edge for real! It’s my bushcrafting axe. Got it incredibly sharp.
Great video. Thanks! I’d also recommend the Council Tool Flying Fox. For half again the price of the S&N Hudson Bay, it’s an extremely capable small axe on the 22” handle.
Another test of these is the long term durabilty, will the axe head eventually fly off and how does that take? I would intersted to know (I have the GB)
I think American axe makers are world famous for the "hardware store" grind on new axes. I own three S&Ns, the camp axe, the Penobscot bay (which might be made of Chinese steel circa early 2000s) and a LL bean camp axe, they are all very equal in every way to my GB forest axe, Wetterlings forest axe and HB hand hatchet all Swedish axes. I will also admit that all of these axes are superior to the "legendary" Norland that I also own.
So for $90, you get an axe with a sheath, lacquered heavily, needs to be sharpened before you do one swing? But for $200 (with tax as it's only $175 brand new at a GB dealer), you get a sheath, awesome hickory wood handle not lacquered up and a deadly sharp axe ready to use out the sheath. So, saving removing lacquer, sharpening the axe head, and all of the additional tools you'll need to buy if you don't have them. Then you're 2+ hours behind getting that axe ready to do what the GB can do? So, did you really save or did you lose time. Time is $$$ in my opinion. Why buy an axe brand new you have to "Tune-Up". Do you have to tune-up a brand new car? Don't get me wrong, a person should know how to tune-up their axe/hatchet. But, only if you get a head or a busted up handle axe at a great cost that allows for those things. Yes, buy American but GB's are sold in American dealer stores so they make $$$ as well. Good video.
You make a good point. If you count the time you spend working on the axe as money, it certainly changes things. I was approaching this more from the angle of a guy that would prefer to tinker around in his garage, just for the heck of it- time well wasted sort of thing. But, if I was able to present the information so you are able to come up with the decision that works best for you, I’m pretty happy with that.
@@outthereinit Absolutely. And again, a person should know how to tune, sharpen and haft an axe. Im always a proponent of getting a head, carving or buying a handle and hafting it on their own. It's fun too!!!
The Snow & Nealy Hudson Bay axe is not a German pattern. The German/Rhine pattern has an upswept toe where the Hudson Bay pattern has a flat toe inline with the top of the eye. The Hudson Bay pattern originated in France and was brought to North America by French fur trappers working for the Hudson Bay Company, hence the name.
@@mmiller73 The basic outline of the Hudson Bay Axe came from the trade axes (Biscayne pattern) sold by the Hudson's Bay Company, but the modern version is substantially different. Those axes --- today we would call them tomahawks --- had no poll and a simple round eye for a slip fit handle. Axe polls and wedged handles are American innovations, so the Hudson Bay Axe is really the first American pattern.
GBA axes are made out of low quality recycled steel and the edges chip and roll A LOT, they are beautiful axes but that’s it, I own one but I prefer Council Tool or my Helko Werk, also vintage axe’s have amazing quality steel I own a lot of American made vintage axes like Tru Temper, Plumb, OVB and Sears True Test awesome quality 👍
Love my GB too. Go the same 1 as you, wouldn't trade it for nothing, trust it, great steel, know it's dependable. Would try American made first, never China. Like your buy American first👍.
Solid editing, and the audio sounds great unlike a lot of outdoor content. Appreciate the video not being drawn out, and it’s actually useful for making a decision. Keep up the good work my man.
My dude, from the bottom of my heart, thank you. I'm glad someone is recognizing a few of these things that take a lot of time and effort to pull off.
Great video thank you! Clear explanation, mic/camera quality and straight to the point! I just bought the Husdon Bay as xmas gift for my dad.
I own Granfors Bruks, Liam Hoffman, Hults Bruks, and my favorites are my Council Tool axes (especially my boy's axes).
I’m planning on wether to get the German Adler canoe axe or the Council tool boys axe. As my first axe. I have a lot of wood in the shed and some big rounds to get through. Idk their so many axes and options idk which one to get but I narrowed it down to these two axes.
@@samiqadri1098 Get the Council Tools Boy's Axe Sport Utility model. Then get a cheap maul for those big rounds with a metal splitting wedge.
You can get all of that for the same price as the Adler axe that won't be anywhere near as effective as having proper tools for the job.
I have a S&N hatchet that's excellent, made in the us before they went overseas. Good that they're back now producing quality tools.
S&N are made in Maine when an Amish family took over the name and patient. Still cheap just use that “best” logo. I believe if you search “The Working Axes” on google you’ll find the site.
Just picked up a S.N today I couldn't resist after stalking the display it was at for a few months. Good review and editing looking forward to more
Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm working on a new review for a Council Tool Axe.
Snow and Nealley since 1864, logged Maine and traveled the Penobscot, Kennebeck, and every other river and lake in Maine. Still made here in Maine, head handle and sheath. They say in the book they are not sharpened for shipping. Check out the Snow & Nealley Penobscot Bay Kindling Axe
"not sharpened for shipping" That's what we call a marketing department lie. It's funny when the least intelligent people on the planet, marketers, try to obfuscate.
It’s the same axe head as this HB. Just 18”
Handle. You can buy just the head for around $40 and put your own handle like I did! It takes and holds an edge for real! It’s my bushcrafting axe. Got it incredibly sharp.
Hey, can you please buy and test/compare the very inexpensive Cold Steel Hudson Bay axe? They're like $30-40 depending on where you shop...
Well done, I have an older S& N boys axe, good stuff
Great video. Thanks! I’d also recommend the Council Tool Flying Fox. For half again the price of the S&N Hudson Bay, it’s an extremely capable small axe on the 22” handle.
Hi John, thanks for the tip to check out Council Tool. I decided on the Wood Craft Pack Axe and will doing a full review this spring.
Another test of these is the long term durabilty, will the axe head eventually fly off and how does that take? I would intersted to know (I have the GB)
keep making more snow and neally vids bro!!
Great video. Thanks!
Good stuff!! Can you show us how you did the paracord wrap?
Absolutely man. Will do.
Is the poll hardened on the S&N?
Well done!
Great video
I think American axe makers are world famous for the "hardware store" grind on new axes. I own three S&Ns, the camp axe, the Penobscot bay (which might be made of Chinese steel circa early 2000s) and a LL bean camp axe, they are all very equal in every way to my GB forest axe, Wetterlings forest axe and HB hand hatchet all Swedish axes. I will also admit that all of these axes are superior to the "legendary" Norland that I also own.
I just picked up the GBSF axe for 155 bucks
So for $90, you get an axe with a sheath, lacquered heavily, needs to be sharpened before you do one swing? But for $200 (with tax as it's only $175 brand new at a GB dealer), you get a sheath, awesome hickory wood handle not lacquered up and a deadly sharp axe ready to use out the sheath. So, saving removing lacquer, sharpening the axe head, and all of the additional tools you'll need to buy if you don't have them. Then you're 2+ hours behind getting that axe ready to do what the GB can do? So, did you really save or did you lose time. Time is $$$ in my opinion. Why buy an axe brand new you have to "Tune-Up". Do you have to tune-up a brand new car? Don't get me wrong, a person should know how to tune-up their axe/hatchet. But, only if you get a head or a busted up handle axe at a great cost that allows for those things. Yes, buy American but GB's are sold in American dealer stores so they make $$$ as well. Good video.
You make a good point. If you count the time you spend working on the axe as money, it certainly changes things. I was approaching this more from the angle of a guy that would prefer to tinker around in his garage, just for the heck of it- time well wasted sort of thing. But, if I was able to present the information so you are able to come up with the decision that works best for you, I’m pretty happy with that.
@@outthereinit Absolutely. And again, a person should know how to tune, sharpen and haft an axe. Im always a proponent of getting a head, carving or buying a handle and hafting it on their own. It's fun too!!!
That is a German design not American but it could be made in America I don’t know. But otherwise great video, no criticism.😊
The Snow & Nealy Hudson Bay axe is not a German pattern. The German/Rhine pattern has an upswept toe where the Hudson Bay pattern has a flat toe inline with the top of the eye. The Hudson Bay pattern originated in France and was brought to North America by French fur trappers working for the Hudson Bay Company, hence the name.
@@mmiller73 The basic outline of the Hudson Bay Axe came from the trade axes (Biscayne pattern) sold by the Hudson's Bay Company, but the modern version is substantially different. Those axes --- today we would call them tomahawks --- had no poll and a simple round eye for a slip fit handle. Axe polls and wedged handles are American innovations, so the Hudson Bay Axe is really the first American pattern.
GBA axes are made out of low quality recycled steel and the edges chip and roll A LOT, they are beautiful axes but that’s it, I own one but I prefer Council Tool or my Helko Werk, also vintage axe’s have amazing quality steel I own a lot of American made vintage axes like Tru Temper, Plumb, OVB and Sears True Test awesome quality 👍
Love my GB too. Go the same 1 as you, wouldn't trade it for nothing, trust it, great steel, know it's dependable.
Would try American made first, never China. Like your buy American first👍.
Counsil tools