CT is one of the only companies I know of that not only tells you EXACTLY what kind of steels you’re getting in each and every one of the axes you purchase on the website, but they also make sure to let you know that the bit on every single axe is differentially heat-treated, the rockwell hardness range of the edges after said differential heat treats, the type and grain of wood for the hafts, the type of grind and bevel you’re getting on the edge, all of it. I mean, they spell all the specs and details out for you in the product descriptions, EVERYTHING you could possibly wanna know about a supposedly high quality tool you’re purchasing. The prices for such high quality tools are also insanely attractive. Council Tool does NOT mess around. Haltzbruk, Granfors, all these other highly romanticized viking-esque axe companies could stand to learn some things from Council. Number one being: STOP BEING VAGUE AS SHIT ABOUT THE STEEL THAT YOU’RE USING. People who spend hundreds of dollars on a single axe are most likely going to want to know about the quality of the entire tool, how it was smithed, heat treated, all of it. These are NOT the kind of people shuffling into a Harbor Freight store to pick up a cheap throwaway axe.
This is an excellent video. You only missed one important detail; Council Tool axes have been made in the USA since 1886. Do not buy axes made in China. They are low quality steel and will bend and break. Take pride in your tools. Buy American made. I have a Council Tool Jersey Fallin' axe, Boy's axe and an 8 lb splitting maul. I love them!
Definitely, I try to buy everything made in the US, or if I need to go abroad, from a company that shares some of our values, takes pride on its work, and respects its working people. Thanks for the comment.
@@gumboot65 What is a rafting pattern? I am trying out their 5 lb axe/wedge banger next. It's two pounds heavier and a longer handle than what I have been using.
I have a CT broad hatchet and it remains the most perfectly hung and oriented axe in my collection. The shape and thickness of the handle is perfect and I refuse to change a thing about it. Some of my axes get reworked not just for personal preference but also for functionality. CT has hit the ball out of the park with much of its product line.
Is that the broad axe they sold a few years back? I’ve been trying to find one for sale for months with no luck! I’d like to find one someday. Agreed they are getting a lot right with their axes.
I've had many -not all, but many. The Sweedes do make good axes... but I stopped buying them after I tried the Council axes, Council gives you a better tool for the money
I agree with this 100%. After I discovered council tool, I have been much less impressed with European axes. Not that they are bad products, but CT is a much better value.
Council Tool has been around for like 180 years. You can CALL THEM and speak with a real person! They are a great company, and they love input on their products. They love their craft, they care deeply about the utility of their tools in skilled hands, and they own their reputation. Fire fighters especially rely on these tools. I know Marines, and SEAR specialists, from North Carolina to Seattle, and expert survivalists in Canada who all rave about Council's equipment. They make a damned good hoolibar from I can tell.
hey man great your ability to speak at length while beautifully and intelligently articulating your knowledge is extreme impressive people like you are probably my favorite part of the internet
Not only your video is good and informative but the moment I heard “back when man were man and music was good” I clicked liked and subscribed right that moment.
Great analysis. Thanks. ... I used to make my living fighting wildfire in Alaska. Along with the use of other tools, my primary tool was a FSS Pulaski axe. ... On the dog sled trapline, I used a Hudson Bay pattern axe for trail maintenance and White spruce round splitting (spruce literally explodes apart at -40° F and colder). ... Council Tool has been on my radar for several years. You've convinced me to give them a go. ... Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That sounds like a very demanding environment. I feel like Council Tool is a company where “axe guys” make the axes. Really thoughtful features, intentional choice of steel, and their sport utility line is an especially good value. I’ve been using their pack axe a lot with a 24 inch handle. Great steel, hardens Poll, and I’ve started quite a few fires with a ferro rod, it works well! I think if I actually could only choose one ax to back my survival on, it would be the 24 inch handle pack axe.
@@urbanlumberjack Boy, do I value your "If I only had one axe!" I've been carrying a Vaughan Daton pattern "USA 4" lb to all my tree jobs for three years. I use it mainly to drive wedges for the final felling back cut (when needed). It's often overkill so the "Woodcraft" looks worth a try. Anyway I'm getting into splitting and felling using an axe (for fun & exercise) as I found two old double bit axes on our family farm and am restoring them next. Just want to tell you that this was my first time seeing one of your videos and I was spell bound with your information. (I'm a full Swede btw! And of course love "Swedish Stuff"! 😂 Yet I have no problem with your pointing out the truth about marketing...🤔😔) I will be sharing this video with a few other "American Swedes!" And thank you again.
Great to hear this great endorsement of Council Tool seeing as I just bought their Velvicut Double Bit Saddle Axe. 5160 alloy steel. It is a beautiful piece of workmanship and I love it. Thanks. You really seem to know your steels.
I have the Sport utility version of that saddle axe and love it! I use it way more than I would have thought. Appreciate your taking the time to write!
As an axe lover myself and as someone who spent his childhood splitting wood twice a day everyday for our home heat. I'm very much liking this channel. Subscribed.
I absolutely agree with you on this subject matter…I have all axes discussed, with the exception of a CT classic jersey as it has yet to arrive (I ordered one 2 days ago). A velvicut “classic” jersey in 5160 would be the pinnacle of amazingness as far as I’m concerned..my favorite axe style coupled with my favorite steel. I enjoyed the video greatly, keep up the good work!!😁
Thanks for the metallurgy. And yes Counsel Tool's fit and finish is consistent and phenomenal. American made, American Pride in manufacturing. Can't wait to do the factory tour. Great Channel.
Man, this is one of the best, most informative and important RUclips videos I've seen in the last year on what is what when your looking to buy a new axe. I myself love Council Tool axes. I think they are the only axe company out there that is truly making an effort to build quality, well thought out axes in the current market without building one of a kind custom axes. For me little features like hardening the polls should be a no brainer feature on any decent axe. The fact that they are throwing that feature along with in a very nice sheath and a quality handle puts them in a class of one for me. The other axe company that get my attention is Snow & Nealley. The primary reason is that they are using 1080 steel. I don't know how much difference that steel makes in an axe but I tend to believe that whatever differences it makes it's all in the right direction. I've seen one of your videos before but after this one I am going to subscribe. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the very nice words! Thanks for the sub, I’m enjoying making the content and contributing to the world of axes. I share the same thoughts on Council Tool, they are a great company.
Oh brother...... I've been splitting wood my whole life and I'm an old man. I split between 7 to 10 cords per winter and for years I've been using my Sthil splitting axe. It's held up amazingly well. What kind of steel? I don't know. What kind of wood in the handle? I don't know. I just know it works, LOL. How did I choose my splitting axe? I went to the tractor supply store and it was on the shelf. It looked good and I bought it. People get so wrapped up in this stuff, LOL.........
Excellent video, really enjoyed your insight. I've recently been buying and restoring axes. I have a gransfors bruk and a collins double bit axe, and have been looking for a good single bit. So you've sold me on council tool and bought a 6 lbs velvicut axe. Very excited to support American made steel and to get to try it out when it gets here.
@@urbanlumberjack yes sir, I will. Definitely like the heavier axes as it compliments my strengths better, so I was looking at the forceful entry too. Keep up the good work bud.
@@urbanlumberjackso im a year late but your video came back up in my feed and I saw my old comment lol. Anyways i didnt end up getting the velvicut ( i will as soon as i find an older used one to restore), but I did get the forcible entry and I love it. Big heavy axe that has served me well in my splitting endeavors. I appreciate your knowledge that youve passed on to us, and keep making great content
Thanks for watching! They do tend to get overlooked. Strangely, I think a lot of people buy an extremely expensive European axe first before they learn more about the craft and discover Council. Lots to like there.
I hit the junk/ antique stores on an off with an eye out for tools and camping gear and if you see any US army tool kits the axes are often Council, same with firefighter tools. I have their Velvicut HB pattern from a few years back and I love it for limbing, making tent pegs, or if I just need a lightweight axe I can pack easily for trail work. I was able to look through a stack of them and pick the one I thought had the best fit and handle as there is a logging supply store in my town that stocks most of Councils line.
Excellent video with great information. In the 1990s I had the pleasure of visiting Council Tool in Waccamaw, NC. I was very impressed with the people (Jack Council was the family member I met with) and I was impressed with their desire to make quality products. I saw their forges in operation and met with some of their employees and I can tell you the values of their company that I remember match very well with your experience with Council Tool products. BTW, Lake Wakkamaw is a great place to camp, vacation, fish.
I make my axes from recycled fork lift tines, which is likely a 4340. I should give 1055 a try as if it’s like 1045 at all it moves much easier under the hammer.
For sure. I would imagine that 1055 would be far easier to work with than 4340. It’s a pretty good all around steel which is why it’s close to industry standard for axes. A 4340 axe sounds legit. Would probably be tough as nails.
Definitely worth checking out CT. I have a stihl forestry axe and i like it. Definitely a limping axe with its super thin profile. You might like councils boys axe. Does alot the forestry axe does, but has a longer handle and somewhat thicker bit so can do a bit more too. Thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir for the honest opinion. I don't have a need for a $200 axe but I do appreciate what a good axe should be. the forced entry axe is bargain for sure at under $100 delivered.
Two of the better known German axe manufacturers both use C60 (1060) steel in their heads: Ochsenkopf (Ox Head) and Adler. Ox head is the oldest operating axe forge in Germany (since 1781) and Adler has been around since 1919) and both are widely considered premium level axes at far less-than-premium prices. Both have a variety of head shapes, weights and handle lengths from crafting hatchets to large full length splitters. I’m personally hoping to pick up an Adler Canoe Axe for camping/kayaking.
Thanks for this video. YT recommended this after I rehandled my grandfather's axe a while back but "thankfully" my buddy just broke it so now I have the opportunity to rehang it. I'd faired the shoulder, but this time I can bevel the eye, which I didn't know to do last time.
Took some mules through the backcountry and the trail was blocked by a fallen 22" fire damaged old dry snag. Tried to get through it with a Estwing. No go. Had to turn around. When I got back I ordered a Council Velvicut 4 pounder. We'll see.
When it comes to carbon content if you're comparing a plain carbon steel with an alloy you can use a carbon equivalent formula to determine the hardenability of the alloy as if it were a plain carbon steel. I learned about this when I was studying welding and metallurgy, welders use it to properly preheat and avoid cracking and it's a very good approximation. It's not exactly the same as what a person sharpening a axe or blade would be thinking about as far as hardness because that depends on the heat treatment done and can range from a completely softened state (annealed) to what the carbon equivalent formula comes up with (it's max hardenability essentially). I don't know if that helped, it actually made it more confusing really but you can look up heat treatment specs and different attributes to that process and get a good idea of how a specific type of steel will perform. It's all very well documented and specifications are often very exacting and reliable. For welding especially they need to be accurate so buildings and ships and nuclear reactors don't start falling apart unexpectedly. Good resources out there, Lincoln Electric has a small library and an absolute must have as far as I'm concerned for anyone doing anything with steel and other metals is "Metals and How to Weld Them". It's a crash course on metallurgy will be your new bible if you do any kind of metalworking, especially welding.
Love it! Have adjusted many friends flawed $25 axes with a grinder, file, sander, and oil... Nobody has ever brought me a Council Tool axe to change.. Couple unknowns, a few True Tempers' .. Lotta Collin's Axe.. Never a Council.
I thought this was gonna be that type of fanboy video that Wrangelstar usually puts out about Gränsfors Bruk but I was certainly wrong, you are so knowledgeable on the topic both factually and by experience and you convey that so elegantly. I have one objection and its a small one. For a splitting axe I would buy a Fiskars. The plastic handle will never break and the steel is fine, maybe not as good as the premium brands but that isn't that important in a splitter IMO. And one last thing, the CT axes looks absolutely stunning and I would probably buy them if I didn't live in Sweden. Supporting high-quality Swedish products is important to me, I have a Gränsfors vildmarksyxa.
Much appreciated! My wife is Swedish, and I am looking forward to visiting your country someday! I’ve never owned a Fiskars but have heard many good things about them.
Man I sure hate when axe companies sent out stinkers for handles. 😂. Great video! I have had good results with Council Tool sport utility line to be honest. I definitely want to try out the velvicut line.
I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but the 4140 of the first axe is ordnance steel. 4140 and 4150 steel are used to make fun barrels from rifles all the way to artillery cannons. So even if they don't include it in their "premium" lines, it certainly is a premium steel and axe.
I think you need a conflict of interest declaration :) Just getting into axes and ordered a CT Jersey pattern. First axe bought that's not big box store standard fare. I'm really glad I found this channel!
Lol! Just trying to bring a little reason to the axe market. Prices are way out of whack. Enjoy that axe! Gransfors Bruk, for example, doesn’t sell “premium axes,” and they are well worth the money. For others premium just means a price increase for no reason.
4140 is a chrome moly steel often used for gun barrels for strength, wear resistance and shock resistance. 5160 is a chrome silicon steel often used for springs that has better resistance to peening the edge for that breaching axe. Both great steels.
Great vid thanks! I own a CT Jersey pattern and have always loved it, now I love it even more! Sad thing is I live in Sweden and it is really hard and expensive to buy CT axes since they don't sell here.
Ive a council rail splitter double bit from the late 79s or early 80s that my dad left me thats still got the original handle. I bought myself a fss council boys axe about 8 years from Omaha knife thats used alot limbing and splitting kindling. Its 1080 steel and has aittle stricter tempering standards than alot of axes. Its edge holds up great and is still easy to touch up. Ive also a 4lb Stanley made by mann edge tools thats pretty nice too.
I sharpened one of my CT's back in Sept '19 and ended up slicing my foot open soon afterward. Fun memory. My gf was freaking out, but I kept her calm so that she could get me to the ER after we sent out for pizza because I hid the injury long enough.
My first time purchasing a premium hatchet - I scored the lemon with a bad heat treat; doesn't help the fact that "recycled steel" was used. It's was the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet. I was so let down... I waited years to finally treat myself and I got the damn lemon of the bunch. I didn't bother with the warranty and just returned it. After that awful experience I've decided I want the Council Tool Wood-Craft Camp Carver with the 16″ curved handle.
That is so frustrating! The camp carver is a great axe I like mine a lot. I’ve heard from TONS of people about edge issues from the factory. Hoping they sort it out
@@urbanlumberjack , Thursday afternoon is good for me. They will transfer your call to my cell phone. I'd give you my cell number, but I'm not sure how to contact you, or share contact info without a the comment being removed. I'm also on FB and IG, if you can find me. Thanks, Craig Roost
I do love Swedish axes. I have four or five Gransfors and about the same Hults Bruk. Even an Arvika from before HB acquired them! Reflecting on this video, I’m not sure I expressed myself satisfactorily. I didn’t mean to say no one should ever buy an ax, other than Council Tool. There is a tendency by some to put out a premium quality axe that is essentially the same as a standard but double the price! If you’re interested in ax, hardness, I have done a number of videos testing the Rockwell ratings of GB Hults and a few others
@urbanlumberjack I don't know if I cam across unsatisfied with the video...I was just engaged in the conversation..I also have council,husqvarna, Walter's,true temper and they all have a place and function..I'm hoping my comment wasn't taken as criticism that's not my intention
@realmetis8002 not at all! Appreciated the comment. I wish I could edit that video sometimes so end up elaborating in the comments a little more than I may on a different video. Thanks for checking out the video!
I dont have any fancy new ax's except a chinese hatchet I paid $10 for and wore out handle. All my ax's are old, many were rusted or chipped. I've cleaned them up and rehung them. I do have a 2-1/2lb HB boys ax. But i mainly split wood and use heavier 4 & 4-1/2lb Tassies as thats where I'm from. But I do like the Council tool products, so many folks dont need high end European hand forged ax's that aren't made for their area or conditions. Council gets handles too.
It pains me to admit but I had an incredible Council tool velvicut American felling ax and I managed to lose the thing. Not sure where it went. Its more than likely leaning up against a tree in the forest. I’ve looked high and low and I can’t find it. I seem to look for it once a year or when I think of it just to see if I can find it. I’m going to give it go this weekend. Maybe I’ll get lucky this time. Otherwise I’ll probably get another one.
Oh man that’s the worst!! I hope you find it. I lost a sheath at a milling site a while ago and when I came back a few months later there it was! Hoping you can have the same luck!
@@urbanlumberjack thanks. I’m sure it’s long gone in the woods. I can’t for the life of me think of where I could have set it or left it. I noticed that I could find it when I moved 3 years ago.
This is a good video because I have always wonder what steel those Swedish axes are made of and are racing axe made of 1055 to 1095 steel because it seem like the deal
Thanks for the comment, I would like HB to tell us what steel they use! Pretty confident it’s 1055 though. Racing axes get into all kinds of crazy steels, everything from 1055 to s7, and more.
@@urbanlumberjack I doubt racing axes are made form anything up the 1055 to 1095 steel because for thier size the prices are like comparable to other axes like granforbruks felling axes
I just inherited some land and have to maintain some small forest. Ihave no clue of that kinda work but I wanted to get it done on my own so thought i have to get some axes, i always buy quality tools and i thank you for the informations i think i go with some of the council tool axes.
I have a 5lb Dayton for splitting lodgepole and doug fir and it does awesome. No damage whatsover in the past 3 years. Also have the Woodcraft axe on the 24" handle. That axe is great but the head slipped when camping while processing an 8" fir. Had to put another metal wedge in.
Is the 5 lb Dayton from CT? That’s awesome. I have a few of their smaller daytons and love them. I also have the 24” pack axe and it’s my go to for bush stuff.
@@urbanlumberjack yes thw 5lb Dayton is from CT. Now they have the 5lb splitting axe. I do love the capabilities of the Woodcraft axe. Will probably rehang on a 26" handle and get the Camp Carver for back packing.
Hey...... just came across your channel and subscribed. So I've always bought cheap big box stores axes but I have a small piece of property now and want a QUALITY small axe but I'm not familiar with them... so I was looking at the gransfors bruks small forest axe or Scandinavian forest axe UNTILL I SAW A FEW VIDEOS OF THEESE COUNCIL TOOL AXES........ so I'm a short burly man looking for the best quality axe for limbing firewood and chopping small trees at home or camp site. What wood be your recommended axe say under 400 bucks.... thanks for the videos and your help
Thanks for stopping by! I would say get two axes, a boys ax that is 2 1/4 pounds and a 28 inch handle. Than a splitting ax or maul. The Small forest ax is a great choice. I also like the Velvicut boys axes. You could look to Germany as well. The Bison mountain axe is great and Helko makes awesome axes in this size range. Any old splitter will do, but I like the ox head splitting axes. Council Tool also makes a great heavy duty splitting ax. There are so many combinations in this size, weight, and price range. My recommendation would be to take a look around and see what style you like
FYI 4140 has .85% (1 in 4140) manganese. Just thought I would let you know. 4140 seems to be the axe steel thar keeps coming up...thinking of going that direction compared to a 1080 HC axe I've been looking at. Not sure though..
@@urbanlumberjack after hearing your talk on the 5160 though...I'm going with the 24" Council tools #2 wood craft axe! Don't need a full size but if I ever do I know where to come for the right one! Your video was very informative and your experience speaks for itself! Take care
My favorite axe that I own is CT but I love my Collins, True Temper and Kelly Flint Edges. All 3 are my picks but something about the Australian axes are special
I love the wood craft axe especially love the hardened poll. But I also own the others , Hults Bruks, Gransfors Bruks, Norland. But Council Tool is a real great American tool company.
4140 is used in low end gun barrels. It's more than sufficient for an axe! Also, my Husqvarna carpenter axe is supposedly made by Hultz but costs 1/2 the price of their "normal" axes.
Yes! The Husqvarna carpenters axe is awesome. Checks alot of boxes for value and quality. Amazing about 4140 in gun barrels. The force it needs to absorb without taking damage must be huge. Thanks for watching!
My Husqvarna Carpenter's Axe came better hung than anything else I've owned. Definitely made my Hults Bruk. When they were made by Wetterlings IIRC, there were issues, but that's a Wetterlings thing. I believe Gransfors brought out Wetterlings and just brought them into their line of offerings instead of them being their own brand. But my Husky axe? Amazing fit & finish and build quality. Hults Bruk (aka Hultafors) is the oldest axe maker in Sweden (well over 3 centuries old). My grain orientation was perfectly vertical and nice & tight. The head was hung level with a proper forward tilt, but not racked.
That’s the forcible entry axe. It’s great. Council tool just came out with a 7lb splitting mail that looks awesome. I also like the oxe head splitting maul
thank you for your fast answer. :) i have alteady the gränsfors splitting maul. great tool. but i‘m searching for something similar to a tasmanian pattern as second splitting tool or for a one tool option. guess this ct could be it. i have to search for a store in switzerland selling this ct‘s. first i have seen the wood bullet. but this axe is realy expensive. without trying it out for this price… no way. and delivery time about 10-12 months. by the way, i found an old axe in our cottage house, something like a tasi. it works great… probably my grand father has bought it. many greetings from switzerland to usa! and keep on splitting. 🙏🏻
Glad you found them! I think they’re still a great value, theyve been as good as possible I think to keep prices low. The Swedish axes have absolutely skyrocketed
Just got a hultafors HY 10-1,5 SV. Had a estwing 26" camp axe. I like 1055 to be honest. Id rather a softer steel for hard use tools. I paid around $100 CAD for the Estwing, $155 CAD for the hultafors. Heat treats makes a big diff and the design/structure for the need/utilization. I have found over my life (with knives) that i prefer "lower quality" steels over the "super steels". The benchmade i had dis nit serve my utilization like D2, 420HC and the best knife ive ever had is the CRKT M21-04G with a "cheap" german steel". You learn what you like in the field, or with utilization in accordance with your needs.
Great video and analysis. Council's premium line also seems to avoid their major critique of less than stellar handle hanging. It would be interesting to see them market unhung heads through a distributor or two much like Prandi...especially if it knocked $10-20 off their economy line price as well as shipping.
@@urbanlumberjack Length has been a question I have as I have several axes needing a new heft! I'm 6'2" with sleeve length 35" & 250 lbs (but hoping to drop back to 220! Is there a general way to determine best axe length (especially felling) or is it all personal preference?
1st time ever viewer here......I am a measure 9 times and cut once type. I need an excellent recommendation/advice on an axe for splitting rounds. If height and wieght is a factor, I am 6'3" & 220pnds. If you have done a video.....can you provide or direct me to the link? I just subscribed! ..... thank you in advance....also.....can you help increase my understanding of how can I tell the difference of axes....ie: chopping axe and splitting axe.
Glad to have you! I haven’t done a video on this exactly, but I have a bunch of splitting videos, using everything from the arvika to splitting maul. If you’re in the U.S., council tool makes a great 7 lb splitting maul. I like it a lot for really big and tough rounds. For everything smaller I use either the council tool 6 lb forcible entry axe, or another of my splitters. The council 5 lb splitting axe is great for about any splitting task too. A good splitter should be pretty thick in the cheeks, a fairly short bit, but not too short, and between 5-8 pounds. Always a convex grind, and bevel set between 30-45 degrees. I use the “flick” method, buckin billy rays done a lot on that. Feel free to reach out with any other questions!
Hello. I would like to order a set of axes/hatchets to cover all needs from utility, camping to splitting logs. What would be your recommendation. Great video. Thank you
The answer would depend a lot on budget. A really solid and affordable set up, all from council tool, is the flying fox for a hatchet, woodcraft pack axe for a medium duty/limbing axe, 3.5 pound jersey on a 30 inch handle for a felling axe and then if you would like a dedicated splitter I like the oxe head splitting axes. Great price and will last forever. I do like Swedish axes a lot but they get expensive in the US. There’s a lot of value in some hults Bruk axes like the Montreal pattern for a medium duty axe, and also their hatchets are great. They do take some tuning up though.
Tuatahi axes are made with their own steel recipe. I have their trapper axe which has a 18degree scandi grind that has held its edge through massive amounts of use including lots of chopping of knots etc. I've been amazed. Best performing axe I've used. Took time to sharpen though.
Ive used the council tool miners axe for years and have done some absolutely horrible things to them ( cutting rocks steel nails etx) and they seem to do well
I have a jersey with a 24" handle and that thing is a beast. I have hit things that should have messed up the edge and it is still perfect. The edge retention is outstanding and the sharpness is what really sets any axe apart. Kudos to the company and their product line. I own a small brush axe and that thing is scary the way it chops saplings.
Have you tried CT's splitting axe? Trying to decide if I get one of their jerseys for all around use, or if maybe I pick up the splitting axe and the boys axe.
I have the FE6, and fallers axe, which is pretty much the same head as the splitter on a shorter handle. Love them both, excellent axes. The jersey is tough to beat for me, although I would guess the boys axe and a splitter would be a great combination.
I have two CT axes and I like both of them. I have three GB axes and I like them, too. I have a half dozen True Temper axes that I have owned 40-50 years. I do not have a Jersey pattern axe. My bigger axes are Dayton patterns. Even my TT Boys axe is a Dayton pattern. I just got a new CT Dayton pattern. I am finishing the handle, now, with Linsheen, so it will be about a month before I use it. Any oil based finish takes 28 days to completely harden. Anyone who says differently is full of crap. I never use an axe until the finish has completely dried. My new Dayton will get an easy half dozen coats of Linsheen before I use it.
If you want to know what steel a certain axe is made from talk to a engineering firm or machine shop and ask them if they have an alloy analyzer. With this device they can tell you what it is made from
That’s a great idea! I’d love to try this out. Any ideas on how to find somebody with this equipment? Does any National company usually have it? Located in central Georgia thanks!
I’m a supervisor in a pulp mill in Western Canada, I oversee or rebuild department with machinists and millwright. It very critical when we rebuild equipment to know the kind of steel we need to use when replacing part as different steels react badly or fail prematurely due to what chemicals it is exposed to. For this reason we purchased a Thermo Scientific hand held alloy analyzer, which uses x-rays to determine the elemental properties of the steel. I’m not sure what kind of industrial is in your area but if you have oil, chemical refineries, industrial fabricators, pulp mill, steel suppliers or maybe steel recycling close to you, they may have one. They are not cheap at around $50,000 to $75,000 a unit, so it’s hard to say who might have one. Ship building and aviation manufacturing might also have on as well as some structural engineering firms. Hope this helps Ray
Does Council Tools make a good camp/bushcraft axe with a handle between 15-20" and 1-2 lb head? I like the idea of a hardened poll as well for additional utility and durability. I'm in Canada and it seems like their prices are even above Gransfors which is insane to me. I can't find husqvarna near me either except for the ugly composite shite
For hardened polls they have the woodcraft pack axe, which I have and like a lot. It has a 19 and 24 inch handle option, 2 lb head. It is a bit spendy even here in the states but it’s a great axe that I have used hard and never failed me.
Their Camp Carver is a beautiful piece too, two different handle lengths. Great for usual axe work but an excellent carver as well. Mine came super sharp, it’s been a great piece for which I paid a lot of $$$.
What is anybody know about Collins acts? I have a 4 lb and I also have a 2 and 1/4 lb voice ax. I love them. I can handle some business with those things so far!!
Thanks for this great video. It seems you really like the jersey and were able to split a pretty big round with it, but you also have great words for the forcible entry. Do you think the jersey is a more "all around" axe while the forcible entry is more designed for splitting? Which would you grab on your way out the door if your workshop was burning down?
The jersey is my go to axe for sure. Definitely the all around best axe. The forcible entry axe is great for splitting but really purpose built for firefighting or splitting.
@@urbanlumberjack Thanks! I tried buying one from Harry Epstein but they didn't have it in stock. They had the 36" one without the forged bevels for a great price though! Ended up getting it from another independent business called Wisemen Trading based out of Alabama. Thanks again for the recommendation and the in depth video!
I am an Axe man. I love my GFB but I have had one with such a bad handle I had to return it, I like my Council tool. The 36" curved is best axe in my life for money,. Have the woodcraft axes but like my GFSB better.
Excuse me the 5160 woodcraft axe from council not the forest axe. I can't seem to figure out which would suit me better. I'll be felling pine trees and chopping firewood. The woodcraft axe is more money and seems to have a black coating which I don't really know the purpose of. So ya I will be felling some pine trees and mainly chopping, would you recommend the velvicut or the woodcraft?
I follow. For work purposes the boys axe will be much better. I really like the pack axe for what its designed to do, but it can’t compete with the boys axe if you’re looking to do forestry work. The black coating is basically the forged finish. What I did with mine is sand away the coating from the cheeks, and the axe looks beautiful.
I saw the 5160 forest axe from council and the velvicut 5160. I am moving to a wooded parcel next year and can't decide which one to get. The velvicut looks nicer and has a lifetime warranty but the forest axe is the same 5160 steel and doesn't seem to say anything about warranty. Do you know the main difference between the 2?
For basic woodland management it’s really hard to go wrong with the Velvicut boys axe. I’d probably pair that with the jersey classic from CT on a 32 inch handle, and then their 5 pound splitter. Those would cover pretty much all your basics if you want to work with axes. Add the flying fox to it, and now that’s really all anybody needs. Want though is another question! 😂
I have a wetterlings forest axe i bought in Tennessee at a popular knife store next to a lodge store, i went on a canoe trip and lent it to someone i was canoeing with, it came back tweaked and crooked. I thought he purposely did it for some nefarious reason unknown to me, i realized i was wrong to think that, when i tried to bend it back it bent way too easy, i mean like aluminum 😮, hand forged?! Waste of money.
That’s too bad. I was on the Facebook group for GB owners the other day and somebody brought up issues with the new axes being somewhat widespread. I’ve definitely heard from many who had bevels ground too thin and heat treated issues
Hey Mr. Stuart! Just received my Council FE-6 last week; got her fine sharpened, stained & oiled the handle, popped it into a round (to check for handle viability)....................& I got a STINKER! She's LOOSE, right outa the box! C'MON Council! I get it, it happens, like you said, but what a drag! Good news is, (I) can hang it proper! You would think, the LEAST they can do, for some QC, is crank all their (finished) axes, carefully into a vise, & check the handles for a SECURE fit! Sure it takes a (little) time, but it would be WORTH IT for happier customers! Not everyone can re-hang an axe, so it may be a BIGGER deal to some! Anyway, done whining! Take care! 🪓🌲🪓🌲
Sorry about the axe, that’s a real bummer. I had mine come loose too and rehung. I know it sucks to need to rehang a new axe but I’m happy I kept mine. I chamfered the bottom of the eye and used a nice thick wedge. It’s been a great axe for me I’ve smashed concrete and rocks splitting on the ground and it barely marked the bit. It’s good steel.
@@urbanlumberjack That's great to hear! Yeah, I'm encouraged by your experiences with this, in fact, YOU helped "seal the deal", for me to purchase from Council! Brandon, from Whiskey River Trading, emailed, following up to see how I like my axe & I told him about my "stinker" & told him I intend to keep & re-hang her, proper; we'll see what he says, he seems nice! Anyway, THANKS for the content you put out for this community, I LOVE IT! Have a great week! 🌲🪓🌲🪓
@@urbanlumberjack It has a number 3 stamped deep on the rear side of the ax head and a not so deep CT trademark stamp about middle of the ax head.Thoughts are it was made when it became necessary clearing cedar in texas when there was overgrowth. A pic of one is on txbushcraft forum,council tool cedar pattern.The pattern originated in texas.
I do agree. Hults Bruk new marketing towards that Agdor line is only to reduce the time spent refining axe heads. Just slap a bunch of blue paint over em,slap a sticker and call em good. I understand why… they recognized that the Montreal pattern was selling well and receiving good reviews, so they capitalized by expanding that line. I have that same agdor Montreal pattern and I do actually like it. But when I stripped the blue paint, the axe head surface is horrendous. Worst I’ve ever seen on an axe. LEAVE THE BLUE PAINT ONN!! Lol. Still a solid axe once you sand down the handle and reprofile the bit to your liking
The Agdor line was always called the Agdor line in the European market. They're the same exact axes as the ones in North America except for the different name. They retained the bead blasted finish here. But they don't sell the Montreal here, which is strange because they wouldn't even have to ship them so far. Is it just the forged finish underneath?
Maybe mentionable: Blade geometry and heat treatment are more important than the differences in the „carbon“ steels. BTW: you said 60 percent somewhere in the video if I heard it correct- this would be a little to much carbon… ;-) BTW2: here in Germany often used axes are from „Ochsenkopf“. Half the price of swedish axes and they do their job well. No fancy things. Tools to work with. My „ochsenkopf Iltis“ is chopping for decades now without complaints.
I have two Velvicut axes and a fiberglass us forestry axe from Council. Harry J Epstein carries a ton on New Old Stock axes that were made for the U.S. Forestry too.
@@urbanlumberjack Steve has 50 of the forestry axes last time i checked both online and in the store. You will need to buy a leather sheath for the forrestry axes though.
I know you don't want to be a sellout but I would appreciate it if you had an affiliate link for your preferred axes available. I like to get what is specifically reviewed and would appreciate it if I didn't have to dig for it. Thanks for the wonderful review
4140 is used a lot in machinery and vehicle output shafts. I'm not 100% about axles but it wouldn't surprise me if that what is used. 5160 and 6150 are found in vehicle and truck springs.
Husqavarna is made by Hults Bruk and I tend to like them better. I have ooly ever had amaizing GB axes. Love my Scandanavian Forest Axe. To me it is near perfect.
I’ve definitely formed that same opinion over the last two years. Husqvarna is a great value. I think I may need to reevaluate that opinion though. I saw several HB axes at the blade show this weekend, and was impressed. Much better handles, full polish on the bit, much higher level of finish.
@@urbanlumberjack I just ordered a Council Tool 24” Pack Axe because of your video. I was sold on a Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe until I saw your review. I even called Council Tool and told them about you. They said they were well aware of you! Nice job and thanks again. I can’t wait to add that axe to my arsenal when I go into the BWCA multiple times per summer!
I hope you enjoy it! I really like my pack axe, it’s been very good to have at the campsite. One of my viewers dogsleds in Alaska over very long distances and pretty much trusts his life to the pack axe. It’s a great axe.
"Council Tool is the only company I'm aware of that uses a higher grade of steel in their premium axe line (Woodcraft and Velvicut) that justify the price increase." Exactly. That, and they still keep the margin tight considering how much time and effort their staff puts into getting that hang and bit just right for you. That's a lot right there. (Then again, if you plan to customize your ax *at all*, why in the world would you buy a Velicut *except* maybe for the difference in steel? And do you need that little bit of difference? The Sports Utility line is right in the Goldilocks zone. Hard and durable enough; still easy to maintain the edge. Otherwords, not too hard, not too soft: Goldilocks!
CT is one of the only companies I know of that not only tells you EXACTLY what kind of steels you’re getting in each and every one of the axes you purchase on the website, but they also make sure to let you know that the bit on every single axe is differentially heat-treated, the rockwell hardness range of the edges after said differential heat treats, the type and grain of wood for the hafts, the type of grind and bevel you’re getting on the edge, all of it. I mean, they spell all the specs and details out for you in the product descriptions, EVERYTHING you could possibly wanna know about a supposedly high quality tool you’re purchasing. The prices for such high quality tools are also insanely attractive. Council Tool does NOT mess around. Haltzbruk, Granfors, all these other highly romanticized viking-esque axe companies could stand to learn some things from Council. Number one being: STOP BEING VAGUE AS SHIT ABOUT THE STEEL THAT YOU’RE USING. People who spend hundreds of dollars on a single axe are most likely going to want to know about the quality of the entire tool, how it was smithed, heat treated, all of it. These are NOT the kind of people shuffling into a Harbor Freight store to pick up a cheap throwaway axe.
Estwing, Barco, and Vaughn tell you their steel as well.
This is an excellent video. You only missed one important detail; Council Tool axes have been made in the USA since 1886. Do not buy axes made in China. They are low quality steel and will bend and break. Take pride in your tools. Buy American made. I have a Council Tool Jersey Fallin' axe, Boy's axe and an 8 lb splitting maul. I love them!
Definitely, I try to buy everything made in the US, or if I need to go abroad, from a company that shares some of our values, takes pride on its work, and respects its working people. Thanks for the comment.
@@urbanlumberjack Heck yeah! You deserve more subscribers. You are legit.
Council needs to come out with the 5 lb Rafting pattern again.
@@gumboot65 What is a rafting pattern? I am trying out their 5 lb axe/wedge banger next. It's two pounds heavier and a longer handle than what I have been using.
Don't buy China junk.
I have a CT broad hatchet and it remains the most perfectly hung and oriented axe in my collection. The shape and thickness of the handle is perfect and I refuse to change a thing about it. Some of my axes get reworked not just for personal preference but also for functionality. CT has hit the ball out of the park with much of its product line.
Is that the broad axe they sold a few years back? I’ve been trying to find one for sale for months with no luck! I’d like to find one someday. Agreed they are getting a lot right with their axes.
I've had many -not all, but many. The Sweedes do make good axes... but I stopped buying them after I tried the Council axes, Council gives you a better tool for the money
I agree with this 100%. After I discovered council tool, I have been much less impressed with European axes. Not that they are bad products, but CT is a much better value.
Council Tool has been around for like 180 years. You can CALL THEM and speak with a real person! They are a great company, and they love input on their products. They love their craft, they care deeply about the utility of their tools in skilled hands, and they own their reputation.
Fire fighters especially rely on these tools. I know Marines, and SEAR specialists, from North Carolina to Seattle, and expert survivalists in Canada who all rave about Council's equipment.
They make a damned good hoolibar from I can tell.
hey man great your ability to speak at length while beautifully and intelligently articulating your knowledge is extreme impressive people like you are probably my favorite part of the internet
Much appreciated! I love axes and woodworking which helps a lot making videos
Not only your video is good and informative but the moment I heard “back when man were man and music was good” I clicked liked and subscribed right that moment.
Thanks for watching!
Great analysis. Thanks. ... I used to make my living fighting wildfire in Alaska. Along with the use of other tools, my primary tool was a FSS Pulaski axe. ... On the dog sled trapline, I used a Hudson Bay pattern axe for trail maintenance and White spruce round splitting (spruce literally explodes apart at -40° F and colder). ... Council Tool has been on my radar for several years. You've convinced me to give them a go. ... Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That sounds like a very demanding environment. I feel like Council Tool is a company where “axe guys” make the axes. Really thoughtful features, intentional choice of steel, and their sport utility line is an especially good value. I’ve been using their pack axe a lot with a 24 inch handle. Great steel, hardens Poll, and I’ve started quite a few fires with a ferro rod, it works well! I think if I actually could only choose one ax to back my survival on, it would be the 24 inch handle pack axe.
@@urbanlumberjack Boy, do I value your "If I only had one axe!" I've been carrying a Vaughan Daton pattern "USA 4" lb to all my tree jobs for three years. I use it mainly to drive wedges for the final felling back cut (when needed).
It's often overkill so the "Woodcraft" looks worth a try.
Anyway I'm getting into splitting and felling using an axe (for fun & exercise) as I found two old double bit axes on our family farm and am restoring them next.
Just want to tell you that this was my first time seeing one of your videos and I was spell bound with your information. (I'm a full Swede btw! And of course love "Swedish Stuff"! 😂 Yet I have no problem with your pointing out the truth about marketing...🤔😔)
I will be sharing this video with a few other "American Swedes!" And thank you again.
Nice!! Cool journey story as well!
Great to hear this great endorsement of Council Tool seeing as I just bought their Velvicut Double Bit Saddle Axe. 5160 alloy steel. It is a beautiful piece of workmanship and I love it. Thanks. You really seem to know your steels.
I have the Sport utility version of that saddle axe and love it! I use it way more than I would have thought. Appreciate your taking the time to write!
As an axe lover myself and as someone who spent his childhood splitting wood twice a day everyday for our home heat. I'm very much liking this channel. Subscribed.
Thanks man! What a great experience for childhood. Hard work sets someone up for success later in life i think.
I absolutely agree with you on this subject matter…I have all axes discussed, with the exception of a CT classic jersey as it has yet to arrive (I ordered one 2 days ago). A velvicut “classic” jersey in 5160 would be the pinnacle of amazingness as far as I’m concerned..my favorite axe style coupled with my favorite steel. I enjoyed the video greatly, keep up the good work!!😁
Outstanding content! What you say makes perfect sense. Thanks for posting this VERY useful and informative comparison.
I appreciate the kind words! Hope it is useful.
Thanks for the metallurgy. And yes Counsel Tool's fit and finish is consistent and phenomenal. American made, American Pride in manufacturing. Can't wait to do the factory tour. Great Channel.
Much appreciated! I’d like to tour CTs factory soon. I’m in Georgia so not terribly far away.
I'm in Virginia. Make it happen, I'll meet you there
Man, this is one of the best, most informative and important RUclips videos I've seen in the last year on what is what when your looking to buy a new axe. I myself love Council Tool axes. I think they are the only axe company out there that is truly making an effort to build quality, well thought out axes in the current market without building one of a kind custom axes. For me little features like hardening the polls should be a no brainer feature on any decent axe. The fact that they are throwing that feature along with in a very nice sheath and a quality handle puts them in a class of one for me.
The other axe company that get my attention is Snow & Nealley. The primary reason is that they are using 1080 steel. I don't know how much difference that steel makes in an axe but I tend to believe that whatever differences it makes it's all in the right direction.
I've seen one of your videos before but after this one I am going to subscribe. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the very nice words! Thanks for the sub, I’m enjoying making the content and contributing to the world of axes. I share the same thoughts on Council Tool, they are a great company.
Oh brother...... I've been splitting wood my whole life and I'm an old man. I split between 7 to 10 cords per winter and for years I've been using my Sthil splitting axe. It's held up amazingly well. What kind of steel? I don't know. What kind of wood in the handle? I don't know. I just know it works, LOL. How did I choose my splitting axe? I went to the tractor supply store and it was on the shelf. It looked good and I bought it. People get so wrapped up in this stuff, LOL.........
Velicut Jersey pattern axe is exactly what I want them to make too.
Send council tool an email! I’ve heard from a number of people that the Velvicut jersey could be awesome, even as a special run or something similar
Thank you for your honest review on axes i luv a 5160 axe, i learn so much on this video
Thank you friend, I appreciate it!
Excellent video, really enjoyed your insight. I've recently been buying and restoring axes. I have a gransfors bruk and a collins double bit axe, and have been looking for a good single bit. So you've sold me on council tool and bought a 6 lbs velvicut axe. Very excited to support American made steel and to get to try it out when it gets here.
Congratulations! Let me know what you think if you remember. That is a man’s axe for sure, hope you enjoy it, and thanks for watching.
@@urbanlumberjack yes sir, I will. Definitely like the heavier axes as it compliments my strengths better, so I was looking at the forceful entry too. Keep up the good work bud.
@@urbanlumberjackso im a year late but your video came back up in my feed and I saw my old comment lol. Anyways i didnt end up getting the velvicut ( i will as soon as i find an older used one to restore), but I did get the forcible entry and I love it. Big heavy axe that has served me well in my splitting endeavors. I appreciate your knowledge that youve passed on to us, and keep making great content
Thank you for this excellent video. I need to look at Council for my next axe purchase.
Thanks for watching! They do tend to get overlooked. Strangely, I think a lot of people buy an extremely expensive European axe first before they learn more about the craft and discover Council. Lots to like there.
Most informative....
I had forgotten about Council Tools, thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
I hit the junk/ antique stores on an off with an eye out for tools and camping gear and if you see any US army tool kits the axes are often Council, same with firefighter tools. I have their Velvicut HB pattern from a few years back and I love it for limbing, making tent pegs, or if I just need a lightweight axe I can pack easily for trail work. I was able to look through a stack of them and pick the one I thought had the best fit and handle as there is a logging supply store in my town that stocks most of Councils line.
Great to have a store life that! Those Velvicut axes are great.
Excellent video with great information. In the 1990s I had the pleasure of visiting Council Tool in Waccamaw, NC. I was very impressed with the people (Jack Council was the family member I met with) and I was impressed with their desire to make quality products. I saw their forges in operation and met with some of their employees and I can tell you the values of their company that I remember match very well with your experience with Council Tool products. BTW, Lake Wakkamaw is a great place to camp, vacation, fish.
That’s awesome! I’d like to visit the forge
Council tool is based in the state where I live. I plan on taking a factory tour and picking up an axe while there.
That’s great! Would love to see the factory, I’m just a state over, in Georgia. Let me know which axe you pick up!
I make my axes from recycled fork lift tines, which is likely a 4340. I should give 1055 a try as if it’s like 1045 at all it moves much easier under the hammer.
For sure. I would imagine that 1055 would be far easier to work with than 4340. It’s a pretty good all around steel which is why it’s close to industry standard for axes.
A 4340 axe sounds legit. Would probably be tough as nails.
I've not got to try an Council Tools axe yet, but very soon.. My old Sthil Forestry axe has been good to me for years..
Definitely worth checking out CT. I have a stihl forestry axe and i like it. Definitely a limping axe with its super thin profile.
You might like councils boys axe. Does alot the forestry axe does, but has a longer handle and somewhat thicker bit so can do a bit more too.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir for the honest opinion. I don't have a need for a $200 axe but I do appreciate what a good axe should be. the forced entry axe is bargain for sure at under $100 delivered.
Much appreciated! I do love that forcible entry axe, has become my favorite splitter
@@urbanlumberjack I'm going to order one here soon.
Two of the better known German axe manufacturers both use C60 (1060) steel in their heads: Ochsenkopf (Ox Head) and Adler.
Ox head is the oldest operating axe forge in Germany (since 1781) and Adler has been around since 1919) and both are widely considered premium level axes at far less-than-premium prices. Both have a variety of head shapes, weights and handle lengths from crafting hatchets to large full length splitters. I’m personally hoping to pick up an Adler Canoe Axe for camping/kayaking.
Love the canoe axe! Germany makes quality products for sure
Thanks for this video. YT recommended this after I rehandled my grandfather's axe a while back but "thankfully" my buddy just broke it so now I have the opportunity to rehang it. I'd faired the shoulder, but this time I can bevel the eye, which I didn't know to do last time.
Thanks for watching! Beveling the eye makes for a great hang, best of luck!
I have a few of their axes, I have been nothing but impressed with their products.
Took some mules through the backcountry and the trail was blocked by a fallen 22" fire damaged old dry snag. Tried to get through it with a Estwing. No go. Had to turn around. When I got back I ordered a Council Velvicut 4 pounder. We'll see.
When it comes to carbon content if you're comparing a plain carbon steel with an alloy you can use a carbon equivalent formula to determine the hardenability of the alloy as if it were a plain carbon steel. I learned about this when I was studying welding and metallurgy, welders use it to properly preheat and avoid cracking and it's a very good approximation. It's not exactly the same as what a person sharpening a axe or blade would be thinking about as far as hardness because that depends on the heat treatment done and can range from a completely softened state (annealed) to what the carbon equivalent formula comes up with (it's max hardenability essentially). I don't know if that helped, it actually made it more confusing really but you can look up heat treatment specs and different attributes to that process and get a good idea of how a specific type of steel will perform. It's all very well documented and specifications are often very exacting and reliable. For welding especially they need to be accurate so buildings and ships and nuclear reactors don't start falling apart unexpectedly. Good resources out there, Lincoln Electric has a small library and an absolute must have as far as I'm concerned for anyone doing anything with steel and other metals is "Metals and How to Weld Them". It's a crash course on metallurgy will be your new bible if you do any kind of metalworking, especially welding.
That is really interesting, thanks for sharing.
Love it! Have adjusted many friends flawed $25 axes with a grinder, file, sander, and oil... Nobody has ever brought me a Council Tool axe to change.. Couple unknowns, a few True Tempers' .. Lotta Collin's Axe.. Never a Council.
Thank you! I like council axes a lot, good quality good value
I thought this was gonna be that type of fanboy video that Wrangelstar usually puts out about Gränsfors Bruk but I was certainly wrong, you are so knowledgeable on the topic both factually and by experience and you convey that so elegantly. I have one objection and its a small one. For a splitting axe I would buy a Fiskars. The plastic handle will never break and the steel is fine, maybe not as good as the premium brands but that isn't that important in a splitter IMO. And one last thing, the CT axes looks absolutely stunning and I would probably buy them if I didn't live in Sweden. Supporting high-quality Swedish products is important to me, I have a Gränsfors vildmarksyxa.
Much appreciated! My wife is Swedish, and I am looking forward to visiting your country someday! I’ve never owned a Fiskars but have heard many good things about them.
Man I sure hate when axe companies sent out stinkers for handles. 😂. Great video! I have had good results with Council Tool sport utility line to be honest. I definitely want to try out the velvicut line.
Thank you! I like the SUV line alot too. I’ve never used a Velvicut but have the pack axe and camp carver. All around good stuff!
I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but the 4140 of the first axe is ordnance steel. 4140 and 4150 steel are used to make fun barrels from rifles all the way to artillery cannons. So even if they don't include it in their "premium" lines, it certainly is a premium steel and axe.
I think you need a conflict of interest declaration :)
Just getting into axes and ordered a CT Jersey pattern. First axe bought that's not big box store standard fare.
I'm really glad I found this channel!
Lol! Just trying to bring a little reason to the axe market. Prices are way out of whack. Enjoy that axe! Gransfors Bruk, for example, doesn’t sell “premium axes,” and they are well worth the money. For others premium just means a price increase for no reason.
4140 is a chrome moly steel often used for gun barrels for strength, wear resistance and shock resistance. 5160 is a chrome silicon steel often used for springs that has better resistance to peening the edge for that breaching axe. Both great steels.
Thanks for showing us and take care.
So much truth in this video, that I don’t know where to start..!
Thanks for the kind words!
You got a new subscriber bud. That was a very cool video. Thank you. I live in Mann Edge tool country so I love the USA axes.
Much appreciated! That is wonderful country, so much history and so many vintage axes!
Great vid thanks! I own a CT Jersey pattern and have always loved it, now I love it even more! Sad thing is I live in Sweden and it is really hard and expensive to buy CT axes since they don't sell here.
Ive a council rail splitter double bit from the late 79s or early 80s that my dad left me thats still got the original handle. I bought myself a fss council boys axe about 8 years from Omaha knife thats used alot limbing and splitting kindling. Its 1080 steel and has aittle stricter tempering standards than alot of axes. Its edge holds up great and is still easy to touch up. Ive also a 4lb Stanley made by mann edge tools thats pretty nice too.
That’s awesome! Good stuff
I sharpened one of my CT's back in Sept '19 and ended up slicing my foot open soon afterward.
Fun memory. My gf was freaking out, but I kept her calm so that she could get me to the ER after we sent out for pizza because I hid the injury long enough.
Sorry to hear that, but cool story! Axe injuries are some of the worst
My first time purchasing a premium hatchet - I scored the lemon with a bad heat treat; doesn't help the fact that "recycled steel" was used. It's was the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet. I was so let down... I waited years to finally treat myself and I got the damn lemon of the bunch. I didn't bother with the warranty and just returned it. After that awful experience I've decided I want the Council Tool Wood-Craft Camp Carver with the 16″ curved handle.
That is so frustrating! The camp carver is a great axe I like mine a lot. I’ve heard from TONS of people about edge issues from the factory. Hoping they sort it out
Hey! It's Rooster with Council Tool. Give me a call at the company offices, as I'd love to chat with you about our products. Thanks!
Would be an honor! Any time work best? Otherwise can call Thursday afternoon if that works for you.
@@urbanlumberjack , Thursday afternoon is good for me. They will transfer your call to my cell phone. I'd give you my cell number, but I'm not sure how to contact you, or share contact info without a the comment being removed. I'm also on FB and IG, if you can find me. Thanks, Craig Roost
Learn anything interesting for all of us from Rooster?
The trick to swedish steel is their high RC for edge holding..I love that especially for our pines here in Canada
I do love Swedish axes. I have four or five Gransfors and about the same Hults Bruk. Even an Arvika from before HB acquired them!
Reflecting on this video, I’m not sure I expressed myself satisfactorily. I didn’t mean to say no one should ever buy an ax, other than Council Tool. There is a tendency by some to put out a premium quality axe that is essentially the same as a standard but double the price!
If you’re interested in ax, hardness, I have done a number of videos testing the Rockwell ratings of GB Hults and a few others
@urbanlumberjack I don't know if I cam across unsatisfied with the video...I was just engaged in the conversation..I also have council,husqvarna, Walter's,true temper and they all have a place and function..I'm hoping my comment wasn't taken as criticism that's not my intention
@realmetis8002 not at all! Appreciated the comment. I wish I could edit that video sometimes so end up elaborating in the comments a little more than I may on a different video. Thanks for checking out the video!
I dont have any fancy new ax's except a chinese hatchet I paid $10 for and wore out handle. All my ax's are old, many were rusted or chipped. I've cleaned them up and rehung them. I do have a 2-1/2lb HB boys ax. But i mainly split wood and use heavier 4 & 4-1/2lb Tassies as thats where I'm from. But I do like the Council tool products, so many folks dont need high end European hand forged ax's that aren't made for their area or conditions. Council gets handles too.
Well said
It pains me to admit but I had an incredible Council tool velvicut American felling ax and I managed to lose the thing. Not sure where it went. Its more than likely leaning up against a tree in the forest. I’ve looked high and low and I can’t find it. I seem to look for it once a year or when I think of it just to see if I can find it. I’m going to give it go this weekend.
Maybe I’ll get lucky this time. Otherwise I’ll probably get another one.
Oh man that’s the worst!! I hope you find it. I lost a sheath at a milling site a while ago and when I came back a few months later there it was! Hoping you can have the same luck!
@@urbanlumberjack thanks. I’m sure it’s long gone in the woods. I can’t for the life of me think of where I could have set it or left it. I noticed that I could find it when I moved 3 years ago.
Very informative. This helps me choose.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful work
Thank you very much!
This is a good video because I have always wonder what steel those Swedish axes are made of and are racing axe made of 1055 to 1095 steel because it seem like the deal
Thanks for the comment, I would like HB to tell us what steel they use! Pretty confident it’s 1055 though. Racing axes get into all kinds of crazy steels, everything from 1055 to s7, and more.
@@urbanlumberjack I doubt racing axes are made form anything up the 1055 to 1095 steel because for thier size the prices are like comparable to other axes like granforbruks felling axes
I just inherited some land and have to maintain some small forest.
Ihave no clue of that kinda work but I wanted to get it done on my own so thought i have to get some axes,
i always buy quality tools and i thank you for the informations i think i go with some of the council tool axes.
Axes are perfect for that!
I have a 5lb Dayton for splitting lodgepole and doug fir and it does awesome. No damage whatsover in the past 3 years. Also have the Woodcraft axe on the 24" handle. That axe is great but the head slipped when camping while processing an 8" fir. Had to put another metal wedge in.
Is the 5 lb Dayton from CT? That’s awesome. I have a few of their smaller daytons and love them. I also have the 24” pack axe and it’s my go to for bush stuff.
@@urbanlumberjack yes thw 5lb Dayton is from CT. Now they have the 5lb splitting axe. I do love the capabilities of the Woodcraft axe. Will probably rehang on a 26" handle and get the Camp Carver for back packing.
Hey...... just came across your channel and subscribed. So I've always bought cheap big box stores axes but I have a small piece of property now and want a QUALITY small axe but I'm not familiar with them... so I was looking at the gransfors bruks small forest axe or Scandinavian forest axe UNTILL I SAW A FEW VIDEOS OF THEESE COUNCIL TOOL AXES........ so I'm a short burly man looking for the best quality axe for limbing firewood and chopping small trees at home or camp site. What wood be your recommended axe say under 400 bucks.... thanks for the videos and your help
Thanks for stopping by! I would say get two axes, a boys ax that is 2 1/4 pounds and a 28 inch handle. Than a splitting ax or maul.
The Small forest ax is a great choice. I also like the Velvicut boys axes. You could look to Germany as well. The Bison mountain axe is great and Helko makes awesome axes in this size range.
Any old splitter will do, but I like the ox head splitting axes. Council Tool also makes a great heavy duty splitting ax.
There are so many combinations in this size, weight, and price range. My recommendation would be to take a look around and see what style you like
FYI 4140 has .85% (1 in 4140) manganese. Just thought I would let you know. 4140 seems to be the axe steel thar keeps coming up...thinking of going that direction compared to a 1080 HC axe I've been looking at. Not sure though..
Thanks for the info. I like 4140 steel, it’s real tough and great for splitting.
@@urbanlumberjack after hearing your talk on the 5160 though...I'm going with the 24" Council tools #2 wood craft axe! Don't need a full size but if I ever do I know where to come for the right one! Your video was very informative and your experience speaks for itself! Take care
I bought a council tools pulaski. It has sat in my shed unused for a year. Went to grab it and it was so rusted the corner was ate away.
That’s a bummer
My favorite axe that I own is CT but I love my Collins, True Temper and Kelly Flint Edges. All 3 are my picks but something about the Australian axes are special
The hytests have something about them for sure. Love to own one some day!
I love the wood craft axe especially love the hardened poll. But I also own the others , Hults Bruks, Gransfors Bruks, Norland. But Council Tool is a real great American tool company.
I feel the same!
4140 is used in low end gun barrels. It's more than sufficient for an axe!
Also, my Husqvarna carpenter axe is supposedly made by Hultz but costs 1/2 the price of their "normal" axes.
Yes! The Husqvarna carpenters axe is awesome. Checks alot of boxes for value and quality.
Amazing about 4140 in gun barrels. The force it needs to absorb without taking damage must be huge. Thanks for watching!
My Husqvarna Carpenter's Axe came better hung than anything else I've owned. Definitely made my Hults Bruk. When they were made by Wetterlings IIRC, there were issues, but that's a Wetterlings thing. I believe Gransfors brought out Wetterlings and just brought them into their line of offerings instead of them being their own brand.
But my Husky axe? Amazing fit & finish and build quality. Hults Bruk (aka Hultafors) is the oldest axe maker in Sweden (well over 3 centuries old). My grain orientation was perfectly vertical and nice & tight. The head was hung level with a proper forward tilt, but not racked.
great video! 👍🏻 wich ct splitting-axe is this you show in the video? i‘am searching for a real good splitting axe. thank you very much.
That’s the forcible entry axe. It’s great. Council tool just came out with a 7lb splitting mail that looks awesome. I also like the oxe head splitting maul
thank you for your fast answer. :) i have alteady the gränsfors splitting maul. great tool. but i‘m searching for something similar to a tasmanian pattern as second splitting tool or for a one tool option. guess this ct could be it. i have to search for a store in switzerland selling this ct‘s. first i have seen the wood bullet. but this axe is realy expensive. without trying it out for this price… no way. and delivery time about 10-12 months. by the way, i found an old axe in our cottage house, something like a tasi. it works great… probably my grand father has bought it.
many greetings from switzerland to usa! and keep on splitting. 🙏🏻
The pricing jumped so high injust the last few years. But i found council and love them
Glad you found them! I think they’re still a great value, theyve been as good as possible I think to keep prices low. The Swedish axes have absolutely skyrocketed
Just got a hultafors HY 10-1,5 SV. Had a estwing 26" camp axe. I like 1055 to be honest. Id rather a softer steel for hard use tools. I paid around $100 CAD for the Estwing, $155 CAD for the hultafors. Heat treats makes a big diff and the design/structure for the need/utilization. I have found over my life (with knives) that i prefer "lower quality" steels over the "super steels". The benchmade i had dis nit serve my utilization like D2, 420HC and the best knife ive ever had is the CRKT M21-04G with a "cheap" german steel". You learn what you like in the field, or with utilization in accordance with your needs.
That’s great advice thanks for sharing!
Great video and analysis. Council's premium line also seems to avoid their major critique of less than stellar handle hanging. It would be interesting to see them market unhung heads through a distributor or two much like Prandi...especially if it knocked $10-20 off their economy line price as well as shipping.
Thanks for the comment!
Jersey pattern Velvicut in 5160 for the win!!! (With 30”, 32”,36” or no handle options)😃👍🏼
Yes! That would be a great axe. I love a 30-32 inch handle
@@urbanlumberjack Length has been a question I have as I have several axes needing a new heft!
I'm 6'2" with sleeve length 35" & 250 lbs (but hoping to drop back to 220!
Is there a general way to determine best axe length (especially felling) or is it all personal preference?
1st time ever viewer here......I am a measure 9 times and cut once type. I need an excellent recommendation/advice on an axe for splitting rounds. If height and wieght is a factor, I am 6'3" & 220pnds. If you have done a video.....can you provide or direct me to the link? I just subscribed! ..... thank you in advance....also.....can you help increase my understanding of how can I tell the difference of axes....ie: chopping axe and splitting axe.
Glad to have you! I haven’t done a video on this exactly, but I have a bunch of splitting videos, using everything from the arvika to splitting maul.
If you’re in the U.S., council tool makes a great 7 lb splitting maul. I like it a lot for really big and tough rounds. For everything smaller I use either the council tool 6 lb forcible entry axe, or another of my splitters. The council 5 lb splitting axe is great for about any splitting task too.
A good splitter should be pretty thick in the cheeks, a fairly short bit, but not too short, and between 5-8 pounds. Always a convex grind, and bevel set between 30-45 degrees. I use the “flick” method, buckin billy rays done a lot on that.
Feel free to reach out with any other questions!
Hello. I would like to order a set of axes/hatchets to cover all needs from utility, camping to splitting logs. What would be your recommendation. Great video.
Thank you
The answer would depend a lot on budget. A really solid and affordable set up, all from council tool, is the flying fox for a hatchet, woodcraft pack axe for a medium duty/limbing axe, 3.5 pound jersey on a 30 inch handle for a felling axe and then if you would like a dedicated splitter I like the oxe head splitting axes. Great price and will last forever.
I do like Swedish axes a lot but they get expensive in the US. There’s a lot of value in some hults Bruk axes like the Montreal pattern for a medium duty axe, and also their hatchets are great. They do take some tuning up though.
@@urbanlumberjack what about the higher end stuff from Council Tool and if there is. I budget limit which axes would you recommend? Thx
*no budget limit
Tuatahi axes are made with their own steel recipe.
I have their trapper axe which has a 18degree scandi grind that has held its edge through massive amounts of use including lots of chopping of knots etc. I've been amazed. Best performing axe I've used.
Took time to sharpen though.
That’s really impressive. Not many axes can do that. I know about tuatahi but haven’t tried one. I’d like to someday.
Great video mate, very helpful!!
Thank you!
Ive used the council tool miners axe for years and have done some absolutely horrible things to them ( cutting rocks steel nails etx) and they seem to do well
I love my miners axe. Awesome to keep by my stove for kindling.
I have a jersey with a 24" handle and that thing is a beast. I have hit things that should have messed up the edge and it is still perfect. The edge retention is outstanding and the sharpness is what really sets any axe apart. Kudos to the company and their product line. I own a small brush axe and that thing is scary the way it chops saplings.
Have you tried CT's splitting axe? Trying to decide if I get one of their jerseys for all around use, or if maybe I pick up the splitting axe and the boys axe.
I have the FE6, and fallers axe, which is pretty much the same head as the splitter on a shorter handle. Love them both, excellent axes. The jersey is tough to beat for me, although I would guess the boys axe and a splitter would be a great combination.
I have two CT axes and I like both of them. I have three GB axes and I like them, too. I have a half dozen True Temper axes that I have owned 40-50 years. I do not have a Jersey pattern axe. My bigger axes are Dayton patterns. Even my TT Boys axe is a Dayton pattern. I just got a new CT Dayton pattern. I am finishing the handle, now, with Linsheen, so it will be about a month before I use it. Any oil based finish takes 28 days to completely harden. Anyone who says differently is full of crap. I never use an axe until the finish has completely dried. My new Dayton will get an easy half dozen coats of Linsheen before I use it.
If you want to know what steel a certain axe is made from talk to a engineering firm or machine shop and ask them if they have an alloy analyzer. With this device they can tell you what it is made from
That’s a great idea! I’d love to try this out. Any ideas on how to find somebody with this equipment? Does any National company usually have it? Located in central Georgia thanks!
I’m a supervisor in a pulp mill in Western Canada, I oversee or rebuild department with machinists and millwright.
It very critical when we rebuild equipment to know the kind of steel we need to use when replacing part as different steels react badly or fail prematurely due to what chemicals it is exposed to. For this reason we purchased a Thermo Scientific hand held alloy analyzer, which uses x-rays to determine the elemental properties of the steel. I’m not sure what kind of industrial is in your area but if you have oil, chemical refineries, industrial fabricators, pulp mill, steel suppliers or maybe steel recycling close to you, they may have one. They are not cheap at around $50,000 to $75,000 a unit, so it’s hard to say who might have one. Ship building and aviation manufacturing might also have on as well as some structural engineering firms.
Hope this helps
Ray
Does Council Tools make a good camp/bushcraft axe with a handle between 15-20" and 1-2 lb head? I like the idea of a hardened poll as well for additional utility and durability. I'm in Canada and it seems like their prices are even above Gransfors which is insane to me. I can't find husqvarna near me either except for the ugly composite shite
For hardened polls they have the woodcraft pack axe, which I have and like a lot. It has a 19 and 24 inch handle option, 2 lb head. It is a bit spendy even here in the states but it’s a great axe that I have used hard and never failed me.
Their Camp Carver is a beautiful piece too, two different handle lengths. Great for usual axe work but an excellent carver as well. Mine came super sharp, it’s been a great piece for which I paid a lot of $$$.
What is anybody know about Collins acts? I have a 4 lb and I also have a 2 and 1/4 lb voice ax. I love them. I can handle some business with those things so far!!
Vintage Collins is good stuff
Have a local hardware store that sells council axes and I can confirm that they are extremely well made.
That would be great! I need to order all mine online which adds a ton for shipping.
Which axe do you use the most?
@@urbanlumberjack double bit and also the Velvicut hatchet
Thanks for this great video. It seems you really like the jersey and were able to split a pretty big round with it, but you also have great words for the forcible entry. Do you think the jersey is a more "all around" axe while the forcible entry is more designed for splitting? Which would you grab on your way out the door if your workshop was burning down?
The jersey is my go to axe for sure. Definitely the all around best axe. The forcible entry axe is great for splitting but really purpose built for firefighting or splitting.
@@urbanlumberjack Thanks! I tried buying one from Harry Epstein but they didn't have it in stock. They had the 36" one without the forged bevels for a great price though! Ended up getting it from another independent business called Wisemen Trading based out of Alabama. Thanks again for the recommendation and the in depth video!
I am an Axe man. I love my GFB but I have had one with such a bad handle I had to return it, I like my Council tool. The 36" curved is best axe in my life for money,. Have the woodcraft axes but like my GFSB better.
Curious about the handle, what was the issue there? Nothing like finding a good axe you really like.
Great video
Thank you!
Excuse me the 5160 woodcraft axe from council not the forest axe. I can't seem to figure out which would suit me better. I'll be felling pine trees and chopping firewood. The woodcraft axe is more money and seems to have a black coating which I don't really know the purpose of. So ya I will be felling some pine trees and mainly chopping, would you recommend the velvicut or the woodcraft?
I follow. For work purposes the boys axe will be much better. I really like the pack axe for what its designed to do, but it can’t compete with the boys axe if you’re looking to do forestry work.
The black coating is basically the forged finish. What I did with mine is sand away the coating from the cheeks, and the axe looks beautiful.
I saw the 5160 forest axe from council and the velvicut 5160. I am moving to a wooded parcel next year and can't decide which one to get. The velvicut looks nicer and has a lifetime warranty but the forest axe is the same 5160 steel and doesn't seem to say anything about warranty. Do you know the main difference between the 2?
For basic woodland management it’s really hard to go wrong with the Velvicut boys axe.
I’d probably pair that with the jersey classic from CT on a 32 inch handle, and then their 5 pound splitter. Those would cover pretty much all your basics if you want to work with axes. Add the flying fox to it, and now that’s really all anybody needs. Want though is another question! 😂
I have a wetterlings forest axe i bought in Tennessee at a popular knife store next to a lodge store, i went on a canoe trip and lent it to someone i was canoeing with, it came back tweaked and crooked. I thought he purposely did it for some nefarious reason unknown to me, i realized i was wrong to think that, when i tried to bend it back it bent way too easy, i mean like aluminum 😮, hand forged?! Waste of money.
That’s too bad. I was on the Facebook group for GB owners the other day and somebody brought up issues with the new axes being somewhat widespread.
I’ve definitely heard from many who had bevels ground too thin and heat treated issues
What’re you using for that overstrike guard on the Forceable Entry Axe?
As I recall this is hockey tape.
@@urbanlumberjack Nice, might have to give that a try soon
Hey Mr. Stuart! Just received my Council FE-6 last week; got her fine sharpened, stained & oiled the handle, popped it into a round (to check for handle viability)....................& I got a STINKER! She's LOOSE, right outa the box! C'MON Council! I get it, it happens, like you said, but what a drag! Good news is, (I) can hang it proper! You would think, the LEAST they can do, for some QC, is crank all their (finished) axes, carefully into a vise, & check the handles for a SECURE fit! Sure it takes a (little) time, but it would be WORTH IT for happier customers! Not everyone can re-hang an axe, so it may be a BIGGER deal to some! Anyway, done whining! Take care! 🪓🌲🪓🌲
Sorry about the axe, that’s a real bummer. I had mine come loose too and rehung. I know it sucks to need to rehang a new axe but I’m happy I kept mine. I chamfered the bottom of the eye and used a nice thick wedge. It’s been a great axe for me I’ve smashed concrete and rocks splitting on the ground and it barely marked the bit. It’s good steel.
@@urbanlumberjack That's great to hear! Yeah, I'm encouraged by your experiences with this, in fact, YOU helped "seal the deal", for me to purchase from Council! Brandon, from Whiskey River Trading, emailed, following up to see how I like my axe & I told him about my "stinker" & told him I intend to keep & re-hang her, proper; we'll see what he says, he seems nice!
Anyway, THANKS for the content you put out for this community, I LOVE IT! Have a great week! 🌲🪓🌲🪓
I just bought a HB Qvarfot. Light head, long handle. Handle is fat. But I can remove the extra material myself. Backpack axe in boreal forest.
Great axe!
I have a CT 3 lb.cedar ax .Not sure when it was made.Not many made by CT.Only seen one other on the net It's a good one.
Cedar axes are great patterns. I didn’t know CT made one that’s a rare find for sure.
@@urbanlumberjack It has a number 3 stamped deep on the rear side of the ax head and a not so deep CT trademark stamp about middle of the ax head.Thoughts are it was made when it became necessary clearing cedar in texas when there was overgrowth. A pic of one is on txbushcraft forum,council tool cedar pattern.The pattern originated in texas.
Great video 👍🪓 you've got a new subscriber 🔥🔥
That’s awesome thanks man!
I do agree. Hults Bruk new marketing towards that Agdor line is only to reduce the time spent refining axe heads. Just slap a bunch of blue paint over em,slap a sticker and call em good. I understand why… they recognized that the Montreal pattern was selling well and receiving good reviews, so they capitalized by expanding that line. I have that same agdor Montreal pattern and I do actually like it. But when I stripped the blue paint, the axe head surface is horrendous. Worst I’ve ever seen on an axe. LEAVE THE BLUE PAINT ONN!! Lol. Still a solid axe once you sand down the handle and reprofile the bit to your liking
The Agdor line was always called the Agdor line in the European market. They're the same exact axes as the ones in North America except for the different name. They retained the bead blasted finish here. But they don't sell the Montreal here, which is strange because they wouldn't even have to ship them so far. Is it just the forged finish underneath?
Maybe mentionable: Blade geometry and heat treatment are more important than the differences in the „carbon“ steels. BTW: you said 60 percent somewhere in the video if I heard it correct- this would be a little to much carbon… ;-)
BTW2: here in Germany often used axes are from „Ochsenkopf“. Half the price of swedish axes and they do their job well. No fancy things. Tools to work with. My „ochsenkopf Iltis“ is chopping for decades now without complaints.
I have two Velvicut axes and a fiberglass us forestry axe from Council. Harry J Epstein carries a ton on New Old Stock axes that were made for the U.S. Forestry too.
I love Harry Epstein, I’ll need to check out their new old stock of axes. I have ordered from them several times
@@urbanlumberjack Steve has 50 of the forestry axes last time i checked both online and in the store. You will need to buy a leather sheath for the forrestry axes though.
I know you don't want to be a sellout but I would appreciate it if you had an affiliate link for your preferred axes available. I like to get what is specifically reviewed and would appreciate it if I didn't have to dig for it. Thanks for the wonderful review
Thanks for the suggestion, I got to look into that.
Nice head but the handle developed a 4" bend in it in one year. Very odd curve. I usually fit my own handles but broke my rule on that one.
Wow that’s wild, never heard of that happening. That’s a huge curve!
The CT Standard line Classic Jersey is 1060 not 1055. The whole SU line is 1060
That’s my understanding, not sure if I said different in the video, but misspoke if I did.
4140 is used a lot in machinery and vehicle output shafts. I'm not 100% about axles but it wouldn't surprise me if that what is used. 5160 and 6150 are found in vehicle and truck springs.
I think that’s right. Makes a very durable axe. The forest service used to specify 4140 steel a lot.
Husqavarna is made by Hults Bruk and I tend to like them better. I have ooly ever had amaizing GB axes. Love my Scandanavian Forest Axe. To me it is near perfect.
I like the 1055 it is easier to sharpen and still holds a great edge.
I’ve definitely formed that same opinion over the last two years. Husqvarna is a great value. I think I may need to reevaluate that opinion though. I saw several HB axes at the blade show this weekend, and was impressed. Much better handles, full polish on the bit, much higher level of finish.
It’s good to watch people who know their shit!
Much appreciated!
@@urbanlumberjack I just ordered a Council Tool 24” Pack Axe because of your video. I was sold on a Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe until I saw your review. I even called Council Tool and told them about you. They said they were well aware of you! Nice job and thanks again. I can’t wait to add that axe to my arsenal when I go into the BWCA multiple times per summer!
I hope you enjoy it! I really like my pack axe, it’s been very good to have at the campsite. One of my viewers dogsleds in Alaska over very long distances and pretty much trusts his life to the pack axe. It’s a great axe.
Love Axes, I see you too.
I have the boys axe. No complaints. Had it for a really long time, like almost 10 years. It isnt “fancy” but its a workhorse that I beat up.
Those are great axes!
"Council Tool is the only company I'm aware of that uses a higher grade of steel in their premium axe line (Woodcraft and Velvicut) that justify the price increase."
Exactly. That, and they still keep the margin tight considering how much time and effort their staff puts into getting that hang and bit just right for you. That's a lot right there. (Then again, if you plan to customize your ax *at all*, why in the world would you buy a Velicut *except* maybe for the difference in steel? And do you need that little bit of difference? The Sports Utility line is right in the Goldilocks zone. Hard and durable enough; still easy to maintain the edge. Otherwords, not too hard, not too soft: Goldilocks!
What make is the Axe you are Holding at the 2min Mark ?
That is the Gransfors Bruk broad axe
4140 and up, are tool steel grades, most high grade steel(forged) aerospace parts are made from this steel.
It’s good stuff. I carry the forcible entry axe in my truck, and it splits like a beast
I think they use 4140 in heavy truck axles might be wrong but pretty sure so if so pretty tough steel
It’s very tough steel, that would make sense