Here in Germany it’s 16:30 pm. I just had a walk with my dog through my foggy backyard forest and now I am sitting in the living room. Perfect time to watch a new EC video. Keep up the good work!
Scott, my Dad grew up in the mountains of NC in the great depression. Trees was about all they had besides a couple of double bitted axes and a lone firearm. They almost starved to death and would have if it hadn't been for those axes and a single shot.22 rifle. He taught me a little about cutting wood including that the beauty of having two blades on an axe is that one is used for cutting and felling but the other is used when cutting roots or any activity that might potentially dull the blade. Dullng your blade was a serious thing I guess. Great video and hats off to you sir.
4:00 I have heard that the modern science of ergonomics began with an analysis of the right size of coal shovel for a locomotive fireman to use. A long trip may require literal tons of coal to be fed into the firebox and there is almost no opportunity for rest. The study found that the correct-size shovel (to allow a fireman to do more work over a long period) was much smaller than was commonly used.
@@darylnd all we can do is try. People insist on writing in abbreviations, initialisms, and acronyms... For absolutely no reason. To save typing an extra letter. And it's not like Google and Apple didn't design spell check software into their phones. And if you're on a personal computer watching RUclips, you should know better.
For a person who knows how it should have been done it was kind of awkward and slow work. For the beginning file isn't a wood working tool and I didn't see him checking axe position to handle not even once. Preferably handle should be finished after it is installed. Handle itself looked like cheap machine made one, very probably grain direction was wrong and surely it didn't follow handle shape. Also wedge shape was primitive and he didn't prepare the handle for the driving it in. Using glue is ok but not a necessity There is so much old knowledge on how these kind of works should be done properly and much of it is long forgotten.
When I am without projects or thinking, stressed or tired my favorite therapy is to rejuvenate old tools. I think it grounds me and puts me in touch with the people who wore out, used, cherished or discarded them. Handling an old chisel, hammer, saw, level sometimes creates a mystery to solve over time. Thank you for you insights. I will look at my old axes differently. By the way! Last night I ran an old large rusted shut scissor found in an auction mixed lot, through the wire wheel. Took a file to the edges. Could not believe how well it cut. Me thinks too many tools will always be never enough!
Boy's ax is an essential part of my firewood harvesting kit. It's like having an extra-long arm. Bending over to pick up sawn logs is for young folks. Also works great for giving you a better place to grip a log to put it on the splitter. It's probably my most used hand tool.
I like it. I use glue on the wedge also it helps the wedge seat in better as well. I set my axe behind the wood stove with head down handle up to open the wood pores a little. Then boiled linseed or tung oil. As i heard a long time ago apply "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year" if you choose to put a leather strap in the handles fawns foot only use it to hang your axe NEVER HAVE IT AROUND YOUR WRIST WHEN YOU USE IT! It will some day as Scott said let blood out.
This is the best new channel ever. I'm new into axe restoration and I just found a plumb boys axe and a plumb 3.5 pound axe to re handle. This video was of great help
Love this content. No politics, no bs. Just a man showing people how to do something without anything else. Reminds me of being a kid and watching bob villa with my dad before he went out and made a standing garden box or whatever.
I’ve been watching your videos for 2 years, since the passing of my grandfather. You remind me so much of him. Both having a lifetime experience of practical working mans knowledge. I just wanted to say thank you so much for continuing to upload content, it’s so easy to follow and covers everything that you really only gain from a lifetime of experience. Keep up the good work
I agree. I have a 40 year old True Temper Boys axe. I hung a new handle in it several years ago and refinished the axe head at the same time. I put a 27” does leg handle in it. I use it as a wedge banger most of the time.
I would pay any amount you told me, if you would kindly make me a boys axe. I appreciate your video’s so much. My wife considers, and calls you my RUclips Grandfather. She recognizes your voice as if she has known you her entire life! You’re a great teacher and wonderful craftsman.
@@LolitasGarden Sometimes (and this might be one of those times), it's not about the profit margin. It's almost criminal, but EC has under a million subs. So just how much do you really think he makes on the merchandise? Probably not all that much compared to the videos, and both of those are almost certainly blown out of the water by his actual day job (remember he's not just "the spec house guy", he does custom forge-work and general contracting as well). Sometimes, it's about providing a well informed opinion about which thing is the right thing to buy, and it might be my folly but I would trust EC's opinion on a good many things, without bothering to do much of my own research. He's proven that he doesn't really have an ulterior motive, and on RUclips that's a rare thing to find indeed. I don't have occasion to use an axe all that often, but I don't have one that's right for me when I do need it, and I'd be interested in owning an axe that EC recommends. On the other hand, I wouldn't get much use out of a T-shirt or mug, as I already have enough of both of those things.
@@44R0Ndin It's not easy to approach designing and hiring a printer for t-shirts (etc.) and then coordinate getting them shipped out to all the people who order them. Then there's checks to cash and taxes to pay... I imagine it's just enough of a pain in the neck that if it didn't make you a certain amount of coin, it wouldn't be worth the trouble. Man's making money from schwag. Which is *not* dispicable - there's a demand to put logo on corpus and he can and should fill the need. But those mugs aren't by any stretch altruistic lagnappes. Axes and Burke bars as schwag would be excellent, but they'd cost more than they should (to the consumer and the producer) to serve their purpose to the old man.
I discovered the joy of a boy's axe this year. I'd been using a full size axe, and a hatchet for camping. I was growing tired of all that non-sense. Grabbed a boys axe, and immediately fell in love with it. It'll also fit nicely on my bike when I'm bike camping!
Thank you for your channel. I've learned a lot from you! As an automotive instructor, I coach the students that using a lighter hammer with a faster swing allows for better kinetic energy than a heavy hammer at a slower speed. The velocity squared component compared to the force, or weight, will have a greater effect on Kinetic energy. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
I say the same about shovels. I modified a regular shovel by shortening the handle and narrowed the blade. Use it for all except really loose material. Also have a micro excavator machine - thought I was going to park the shovels forever, but even though it does all the hard work, still need to hand shovel the precision stuff...
I've always found spades to be more useful than shovels - flat blade, square edges, easy to manipulate and more precise. That said, spades are more likely to end up biting a foot, just like a boys axe.
Being six foot, I can't work long with a short handled shovel... kills my back. All of my short handled shovels, a D handled scoop shovel, a D handled round point and a straight handled round point tend to gather rust. My long handled round and straight shovels are bright and shiny from use. My round point is on it's second head and the straight point has a welded piece of flat bar on the edge to keep it from wearing down. I try to be gentle with the handles, rough on the blades. I confess I went to fiberglass handles on my heavy use tools years ago. My framing hammer is almost fifty. Both the shiny shovels are over twenty, though all my gardening tools are good wood.
I think the typical shovel is designed to be multipurpose, do to everything when it's literally the only shovel that one has. It can pierce hard earth, sort of, can lift bulk loose material, sort of, can trench, sort of. I have a fairly large number of shovels and I tend to select based on the job at hand, only one I'm still looking for is one of the long-handled trencher spades with the short shovelhead. The typical shovel still is fairly effective for basic digging straight down and cleaning roughly cleaning out the hole as one goes.
@@TWX1138 There always seems to be the right shovel for the right job. I have a neighbor that acquired the trenching spade you describe at an estate sale. I used it to transplant a line of hydrangea bushes. Two or three shoves around the base of the plant and a nice leveraged lift due to the way the handle was configured and out popped each plant, no root damage. Good luck finding the one you're looking for ... I would say they're worth having in your collection. They are a dream to work with for transplantation of shrubs, bushes and clumped bulbs like lilies.
My son-in-law laughed at my little axe and chose to use the big one. Long story, short, he now has a "boys axe". Great points on a great video. AND....hitting the handle is the correct way to drive the head on. Well done sir.
Not aurguing the point just saying. when no one ever tought you the rite way, is there really a wrong way? Doing what ya have to to get it dune, until some one who's been there see's an takes the time. Glad there ppl like him out here on RUclips. An yes there is a wrong way my first time ax head lasted a month tight. Then kept having to add shims. Then purchased a new one.
My personal favorite axe that I'll grab for most jobs around the homestead that want an axe, is a Norlund boy's, or maybe Hudson Bay, head on a 32 inch haft. Light weight, small head that penetrates exceptionally well, with a bit of beard that lets me actually get my had up in behind the edge if I want to do some sort of fine task with it. Spectacular for limbing fallen trees, I can swing it all day with one hand. Personal preference. Also long enough not to get ankles ;) And the hatchet I go to first for my spoon carving work is a vintage Plumb Victory. You don't like hatchets, I Love this one, it's a near perfect tool, for my needs.
What timing! I just got a Trail boss 27" to beat around with. My wife giggled at the little axe. We will see how it does. Got my father-in-law a Granfors Small Forest Axe a decade ago. Never heard a word about it until just recently. He said he uses it all the time. (he chops all his own wood and never uses a splitter). Hail the boy's axe!
picked up at an estate sale double bitted, single and a fireman's axes together with a beautiful double handle saw. also a few axe handles from the days gone by. all of these were from the 1930, 40 and 50s. love the look of an axe, such a beautiful and well engineered tool, the handle too!
I just finished a boys axe for a customer. New haft, cleaned up the head and painted it the original red. It was his Fathers and he was giving to his son as a gift. Cheap axe made in China but its looks darn good now. I was hanging a new haft on a Miller Falls hatchet for the same fella when this video came up. Excellent work Scott!
This video hit home with me, as I have the same conclusions that you have about axes. My most used axe is a vintage Evansville boys axe from the 30s. I have a small you tube channel (MR OBSOLETES VINTAGE HOMESTEADING) where I use vintage axes, tools, chainsaws, tractors etc. here in the Northwest. My last video was building a full size Evansville axe and wood handle maintenence. Your great advice on many topics has helped me on my videos. An example is the one on Sears boots. Just wanted to say thank you and keep making such excellent videos.
Best axe I ever had was an 18th cent. repro made by Elwell in England. It had a round poll with a long beard and weighed about 4lbs. The blade length is 7.5" with a 5" curved bit. It has a tapered hole so the handle enters from the top and wedges in like a tomahawk. It is the best wood splitter and chopper by a country mile. An old gunsmith taught me to use inletting black (or lamp black) inside the hole to leave marks where the high spots are. He showed me to use a broken Coca-Cola bottle to scrape the wood for a glove fit without a wedge. You can buy the head new for $30 online via an 18th century sutler. The hickory handle is $15. Can't beat it. Too heavy to carve or work one handed but it's an 18th century chainsaw. Always great stuff! Thx
The two most important tips I picked up about re hafting an axe are this. As Eric did, leave the handle a little proud of the bit. This really helps keeping the handle from loosening. The second is to select a handle where the grain runs all the way from the bit to the handle and no sapwood in the handle at all. This really seems to reduce breakage, splinters and gives it a springier "feel". Great job!
Thank you Nate for sharing your dad with us. Reminds me so much of the men I grew up around and admired, except he's all for passing on the wisdom of experience.
This guy works for a living! His hands and smashed fingernails are testament to that. What other honest RUclipsr can claim this? I just love your videos even more now.
A 3/4 Scout axe has been my favorite since 1962 when I got to use one in Boy Scouts. Still carry one and an old entrenching tool in all of my vehicles. A very good video. Tandy had a good sheath pattern for axes. I made them for my hand axes, double bit axes, and 3/4 axes. Good Luck, Rick
I very much appreciate your "mature" views on axe head weight and handle length. Being 6'5" and 270 lbs, swinging a heavy axe, lifting, sawing, etc. has never been a problem until recently. With lower back surgery and two torn rotator cuffs, I'm a shadow of my former self. Still bpeing strong dosen't mean anything if swingin' a havy tool causes near paralysis for the next two days! Great channel, just found you, just subscribed. Thanks for this great video!
On an Engine Company that I served on we kept a small axe like that for use in attics and underneath crawl spaces. The lighter weight was essential for not getting worn out in opening up and chasing fire in tight spaces and where you could never get a full swing with a large axe. Our little axe was a pick head. Probably a 2 pounder, the pick end was slightly more elongated than the large pick headed axes used for forcible entry and roof opening, perfectly balanced and a go to tool for inside work.
Yes! I've long had a heavy hatchet that I continually rehandle with a long straight handle. It's perfect for limbing or just basic wedge hammering when felling.
I don't use glue on the wedge or use the metal one either. It makes it easier to adjust the handle of needed. I agree with you. This size is very useful for a large range of uses. Great video.
Where it comes to fitting any wood handle, I was taught that the rasp or file fits the bottom and the wedge fits the top. Also, instead of glue, I prefer to soak the handle and wedge in boiled linseed oil for a few minutes. It preserves the wood (and metal) within the eye and will not let the wedge slip after it cures. However, should I ever need to remove the wedge to refit or any other reason, it can be done without mangling the handle. Excellent video, good advice, and thank you.
I only own three axes today... one is a True Temper 2lb “boys” axe which is my go to and I keep in the truck every day, one a 2 1/2 lb Sager Cruiser that I only use when I’m out actually cutting timber for firewood and I bring an axe along. Lastly A few years ago I purchased a wetterlings 18” woodmans axe which I basically only use for camping trips and light duty where a shorter handle is worth the tradeoff. All can get it done because I keep them sharp, but the little 2lb axe is the best compromise.
This reminds me of Barry Bonds' preference on baseball bats. He selected a tiny bat, choked up on it, and treated his swing like using a pitching wedge in golf rather than a driver. Many of his most massive home runs were from a short and compact swing that look light and easy.
Something I've found that works when trying to work a head off a handle when test fitting is two work a thick dowel offcut down so that it fits in the top of the head and you can use it to help you bash the handle out, much easier than hitting the head
Another fantastic video! I use the Gränsfors bruks small forest axe a lot, it's great for splitting kindling, tidying up tough wood work, and you're right Scott, it's light enough to use it for hours. With the risks of chopping your ankles etc... You've just got to be careful, feet wide, have some steel toe capped boots on. Shin pads might be a good trick for teenagers who are just learning these skills too?
Teenagers start them splitting with a LONG HANDLE and a good stump....once they build some strength and coordination get small and dangerous....they will already respect the tool by then ....In my 50s with 2 boys and 10 acres in northern British Columbia
4:00 The reason is not because you're getting older - of course we all are - but because of the kinetic energy. E= 1/2*m*v^2. The increase of the mass is only 0,5 times, but the speed is the real game changer. I think you this better than most of us :) Keep up the good work, greetings from Hungary!
When you had the high speed hammering going on there, I was reminded of what my grandpa told me as a young boy. After watching me attempt to drive a nail a few times he said, "You Hammer like lightning.....you seldom ever strike twice in the same spot". I hadn't thought of that in years. Thanks for the reminder of my grandpa.
I have a Sager Michigan pattern double bitted axe date stamped 1944 It belonged to my Dad before me. If you look closely you can see that the axe is not symmetrical. One side is slightly shorter than the other. They were made that way for the reason that Gary P describes. Back when a man could make a living with an axe they understood them better. I was happy to see you use boiled linseed oil on the handle. When I buy a handle the first thing I do is shave the varnish off of it. Boiled linseed oil goes on once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.
I like the monster maul. Usually only one shot per customer. I also use it as a force multiplier while running the hydraulic splitter. If you get a nasty log that doesn't want to cooperate, vertically place the maul on the flat business end of the splitter. Meaning if the wedge is on the ram, place the maul against the end plate and if the ram is the flat side, place the maul against it during the stroke. That way you have the log getting a wedge at both ends facing each other simultaneously. That's usually way too many psi for any log to endure.
My boys axe is my go-to for most things too. It can do most things well. From firewood, to processing game, it can most things I really want an axe to do, and packing it around is easy.
A good rule of thumb, when swinging an axe (overhead and chopping down), is that your target should never be higher than your belt and when the axe contacts the wood the handle should be parallel to the ground. Keep these two things in mind and you will never hit your foot, shin or any other part of your anatomy that you feel attached to and fond of. If/when you miss, there's enough handle between your hands and the head of the axe that the head is going to hit the dirt first.
Love the patina on that well-used handle. I sand any new tool handles or wooden or bamboo kitchen utensils I get. (I've got a shovel with a fiberglass handle and I hate how it feels-- the temperature resistance, vibration, and flex are different from wood-- and my tools don't see constant heavy use, so I don't buy fiberglass-handled tools). That way they have the smooth, broken-in feel I want. Bare or oiled wood that's handled a lot gets a wonderful shine and smooth feel without losing grip.
I solved the Jr. Ax(e) being shorter by adding a "safety chopping roll". The shorter chopping block in front of the regular chopping block that stands is 3- 4" inches lower than reguler chopping block. Great for training boys and youth. Great safety measure that even I still after working things out. Thxs for the vid
The video quality is amazingly crisp. Very high quality. One tip: ditch auto-focus when shooting video on a DSLR . Set focus manually and you’ll stop the camera from constantly hunting for focus.
I have a smaller/lighter axe like that with a really narrow blade grind on the head. Due to the lightness, it swings quicker and it chunks out the wood fast due to velocity not weight component of its impact momentum.
Check the adjustment of the sights on your hammer, judging from the old blood under left middle finger nail, perhaps they are off a smiggen. Glue on the wedge, I learned something. I have gotten old, instead of rasp a 80 grit disc on a die grinder. You are a joy to watch!
One of the greatest exercises in patience. For a someone new to the trades . It teaches you to take care of the tools that take care of you and your livelihood.
When I fit in a new handle I always hold the axe up and look down the blade and handle to make sure it's inline because a Axe with a cooked or Cocked head is terrible for splitting/chopping..... Next time you're in a hardware store pick up a few and look down the length of them in relation to the blade.
I was just about to comment on the beautiful camera work then you made your genius comments and I laughed so much. I think we've all been there in some shape or form. Great camera work Nate.
I finally broke down and bought one for camping. Needless to say its outside the barn more than inside. I just need to get the hang of sharpening my axe.
I discoved this fact after deciding to add handles to some axe heads I had laying around. The local hardware store only had one length in stock. Initially I thought one axe head was grossly undersized compared to the handle, but was pleasantly surprised when I put it to use. It's awesome for knocking off branches and knots on logs I'm milling, and for shaving off bark on raised portions of the log.
Two recommendations - Japanese Shinto Rasp, game changer for any type of rasping. 2. Japanese Push/pull flush cut saw…. Actually game changing for hanging
I could be mistaken, but from family history (Granddad was logging camp foreman, & we inherited his double-bit cruiser's axe engraved with his initials) I think the short handle allowed the cruiser to carry the axe more conveniently when scouting and marking a stand of timber. Granddad also used his to mark where he wanted his fallers to lay trees down. FWIW. Enjoyed your summary. I have a long handle and a hatchet; guess I should have a 'boy's axe' instead. (Oh boy ... an excuse for a new tool!)
I love axes, doing what you just did. I buy old head from yardsales and flea markets and give them a new lease on life. I made my daughter her very own axe and now I can't get her away from the wood pile. Love the channel and the message keep it up!!!
I agree completely. A lighter head on a longer handle allows that finer work but you can still get a really good hard swing at it. Up here in Alaska a lot of trappers use them we call them a trapper axe, never heard of it called boys axe
A cautionary word I learned the hard way. I scored an old axe at a yard sale for $2. I was doing the exact same thing Scott was showing in the vid. I was using a hammer to encourage the axe head to leave the handle. In the process of trying to remove the axe head a razor sharp shard of metal from the axe shot off and stabbed me in the shin. I was wearing shorts since it's still warm here in Texas so maybe some of this could have been avoided. I've never been stabbed in the shin but this felt like someone stuck me with a steak knife. A nice stream of blood ran down my shin into my sock. I didn't think too much about it hoping that the pain would subside but it didn't. I looked the wound over and didn't see anything hanging out of the skin so it confused me why it was hurting so much. The next day the wound was getting warm to the touch and it still hurt like hell. I start thinking there's something under the skin I couldn't see or feel. I go to the ER and they xray the area. Luckily there's nothing under the skin but it's infected. Evidently that shard of metal hit a nerve. A crappy little shard of metal went in deep enough to hit a nerve! The wound was in the middle of my shin and the pain went all they way down into my foot. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, if you are going to be pounding on anything hard with another hardened thing (hammer) put something soft in between them!!!! Aluminum, soft steel, brass, wood ... anything!! I always wear safety glasses but think if that had taken a path into my eye. Just my $.02
My go to axe is a 2 1/2lb. Hudson Bay pattern "small forest axe. I found the axe head in the woods. No handle. I also found a 3 1/2 lb Michigan Pattern felling axe head in the woods. No handle. Both restored to really beautiful useful axes. Every time I hace purchased a preshaped axe handle it took a few hours of hand work to fit the handles to the heads. The Hudson Bay axe gets used often for multiple carpentry tasks.
a ferrier's rasp is great for wood working, especially roughing. A friend's dad gave me a boys axe many years ago and it is my favorite axe, very useful.
Also important but not mentioned in the video is the "hang" of the axe. I'm sure there are better words for all this, but if you hold the ax to a flat wall such that only the cutting edge and end of the handle touch the wall, you can check where along the cutting edge you make contact. This is much more difficult to adjust then merely getting the axe to fit onto the handle. I would aim to make that contact point near the middle, but a hair closer to the handle end of the blade.
I was taught a different technique by my late father on replacing wooden handles on everything from hammers to hatchets to axes. This certainly requires gloves, but the technique is to take a glass jar (or even a drinking glass), put it into a container like a box or trash can, and break it. Then use a large glass shard as a scraper to shape the handle in the way you were using the rasp and files. I've used that technique on a number of tools over the years, but your method is probably safer overall. Anyway, thumb is up, and thanks as always for your content!
I started using a Stiletto back around 1990. I was the only guy I saw back then who had one. All the other dudes were swinging 28 oz. monsters. My elbow is pain free to this day. I loved that hammer. It was one of my favourite things. Funny eh, how a tool can mean so much.
I use and have for 60+ years a 13 oz. claw hammer to build anything which requires a claw hammer. That includes a house, a barn, several remodeling jobs and cabinet work. I am an amateur carpenter but I learned from my dad and uncles. Excess weight gets you tired faster.
Hey Scott, in watching you fit that handle, I know your old school and the file is a thing of beauty But you might enjoy trying a Shinto saw rasp. it has a fine side and a course side and it’s function in the hand is essentially the same but it removes wood real good AND they’re like $20 bucks
Agree. My 2.25 lbs axe with a 26” handle is my favourite, except for splitting. The round compression rings work much better than the flat wedge type when hafting an axe, or hammer.
I used a cruising axe when I was running survey lines. One side was always very sharp for 'high work, the other side was reserved for working close to the ground.
thanks for the confirming the suspicion i've had for years. growing up, i had the option of a large axe, maul, hatchet, and machete. over time, i settled on using the large axe for splitting and then the boys axe and machete for everything else. i watched videos on hatchets, thinking i must have missed something or had the wrong type of hatchet. but everything that people would use a hatchet for, i'd rather use a machete or boys axe.
Great video! I love rehandling axes and seeing how other people do it. The Ax Book, by D. Cook, is a fantastic resource for anyone looking for more information. My favorite is a Kelly Perfect double bit on a 36" straight handle, but I also like a Dayton single bit ax on a 36" handle. I like a light-ish head on a long handle because it gives you more smash with less weight. I'm a fan of straight handles over fawn's foot handles since I think they're more forgiving from an accuracy standpoint.
I have been saying the 28" handled axe is the one to use for cutting for a long time now . I cut a lot of live maples it is my favorite to down and to limb with speed over weight with a bit of leverage wins every time over the brutality of dead weight.
You can easily find replacement handles for an axe at most hardware stores. They usually have 20-30 of them, standing upright in a box with a small plastic bag stapled or taped to them, with a wooden wedge and one or two steel wedges to be driven in after the handle is fitted. BUT they are not all created equal. Take a minute to sort thru the available handles and look carefully at the end-grain. Choose the one with the grain direction going parallel to the axe head and the tighter the grain, the better. There will be handles there with the grain running completely perpendicular to the blade, and those should be avoided. They won’t be nearly as strong and will be much more prone to breaking again prematurely.
your videos help heal my soul sir, i have seen a lot of trauma in my life and nothing seems to do it for me like working with my hands, i hate that i have to live in a city.
I love the "boys axe", I've been using one for my whole life. It's the best choice for lots of my chopping jobs. I do have a full size axe as well but it only gets used on occasion. Finding new handles for the boys axe is becoming difficult. Stores that carry the axe or a replacement handle are few and far between. The big box hardware/lumber stores don't carry them any more, probably since few people do much axe work nowadays.
My hatchet gets a TON of use ripping out drywall and other assorted demo. Use it all the time when I'm breaking up furniture for scrap as well. I don't think I've ever used a hatchet on a camp site though, and always bring 2.5lb short-handle (what you've been calling a "boy's axe") instead. I'd never split wood with a 2.5lb, unless I were in a pinch. I have a splitting maul for that.
I ended up with a nice weight axe a little by accident - the hoe portion broke off a Pulaski. Ground the broken neck off flush. It has a longer handle, but easily wielded. It lives in the pickup toolbox as a utility/just-in-case tool.
thats why when useing shorter axe is that you take wide stance with the feet so they are in line with the shoulders so if you miss the swing goes between the legs... and there is no race when chop wood.. when haveing the hatchet and holding the wood with one hand its mostly then the fingers starts to fly.. still remember when dad showed me he took the biggest axe and bury it deep in a birchstump. i struggled to get it out when i was done and got it out he said" when the axe is in your leg you dont have to struggle that mutch"
If you a packing in some where and you could only take one tool I would agree that a boys axe is a good way to go. At 6'4" I prefer to use a 3.5-4lb single bit on a 32+" handle and carry a knife with a thicker spine for fine work or battoning. Even with that though can be a challenge to split large saw cut rounds of certain species of wood (chopping vs splitting style of heads). I have to beak out a 6lb axe eye maul for the really tough stuff. At least here in MN. To each their own. Thanks for the video!
The us forestry service has some really good videos on youtube including trail clearing,axe and crosscut saw usage,and even sharpening. A good rule of thumb when swinging an axe is to keep it on a vertical plane 90 degrees to the ground unless you're cutting on the opposite side of the log. My boys axe is fss made by council tool in north Carolina. The been in the biz for well over a hundred years and know how to make a good American made axe that doesn't cost several hundred dollars. If you can find yourself an fss version they're made from higher grade steel and hold an edge like nobodies business.
Here in Germany it’s 16:30 pm. I just had a walk with my dog through my foggy backyard forest and now I am sitting in the living room. Perfect time to watch a new EC video.
Keep up the good work!
Scott, my Dad grew up in the mountains of NC in the great depression. Trees was about all they had besides a couple of double bitted axes and a lone firearm. They almost starved to death and would have if it hadn't been for those axes and a single shot.22 rifle. He taught me a little about cutting wood including that the beauty of having two blades on an axe is that one is used for cutting and felling but the other is used when cutting roots or any activity that might potentially dull the blade. Dullng your blade was a serious thing I guess. Great video and hats off to you sir.
this is good info, thanks for sharing!
That was always my understanding. The double bit was a forester’s tool, with one edge for rough work and the other edge for felling.
You also can use one side for felling a tree and the other side for chopping. Two different grinds on the two sides.
4:00 I have heard that the modern science of ergonomics began with an analysis of the right size of coal shovel for a locomotive fireman to use. A long trip may require literal tons of coal to be fed into the firebox and there is almost no opportunity for rest. The study found that the correct-size shovel (to allow a fireman to do more work over a long period) was much smaller than was commonly used.
He put more effort and attention to detail into attaching that handle than allot of people put into a full day of work . Keep up the great work .
True, but I must insist that "allot" is a verb.
@@darylnd good story
@@darylnd all we can do is try. People insist on writing in abbreviations, initialisms, and acronyms... For absolutely no reason. To save typing an extra letter. And it's not like Google and Apple didn't design spell check software into their phones. And if you're on a personal computer watching RUclips, you should know better.
For a person who knows how it should have been done it was kind of awkward and slow work. For the beginning file isn't a wood working tool and I didn't see him checking axe position to handle not even once. Preferably handle should be finished after it is installed. Handle itself looked like cheap machine made one, very probably grain direction was wrong and surely it didn't follow handle shape. Also wedge shape was primitive and he didn't prepare the handle for the driving it in. Using glue is ok but not a necessity
There is so much old knowledge on how these kind of works should be done properly and much of it is long forgotten.
When I am without projects or thinking, stressed or tired my favorite therapy is to rejuvenate old tools. I think it grounds me and puts me in touch with the people who wore out, used, cherished or discarded them. Handling an old chisel, hammer, saw, level sometimes creates a mystery to solve over time. Thank you for you insights. I will look at my old axes differently. By the way! Last night I ran an old large rusted shut scissor found in an auction mixed lot, through the wire wheel. Took a file to the edges. Could not believe how well it cut. Me thinks too many tools will always be never enough!
Boy's ax is an essential part of my firewood harvesting kit. It's like having an extra-long arm. Bending over to pick up sawn logs is for young folks. Also works great for giving you a better place to grip a log to put it on the splitter. It's probably my most used hand tool.
I like it.
I use glue on the wedge also it helps the wedge seat in better as well. I set my axe behind the wood stove with head down handle up to open the wood pores a little. Then boiled linseed or tung oil. As i heard a long time ago apply "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year" if you choose to put a leather strap in the handles fawns foot only use it to hang your axe NEVER HAVE IT AROUND YOUR WRIST WHEN YOU USE IT! It will some day as Scott said let blood out.
This is the best new channel ever. I'm new into axe restoration and I just found a plumb boys axe and a plumb 3.5 pound axe to re handle. This video was of great help
Love this content. No politics, no bs. Just a man showing people how to do something without anything else. Reminds me of being a kid and watching bob villa with my dad before he went out and made a standing garden box or whatever.
I’ve been watching your videos for 2 years, since the passing of my grandfather. You remind me so much of him. Both having a lifetime experience of practical working mans knowledge. I just wanted to say thank you so much for continuing to upload content, it’s so easy to follow and covers everything that you really only gain from a lifetime of experience. Keep up the good work
Gotta love it when the editor throws shade at the cameraman. Even if he's the same guy 🤣
Especially if he's the same guy
I agree. I have a 40 year old True Temper Boys axe. I hung a new handle in it several years ago and refinished the axe head at the same time. I put a 27” does leg handle in it. I use it as a wedge banger most of the time.
I would pay any amount you told me, if you would kindly make me a boys axe. I appreciate your video’s so much. My wife considers, and calls you my RUclips Grandfather. She recognizes your voice as if she has known you her entire life!
You’re a great teacher and wonderful craftsman.
Imagine this channel's merchandise being axes and knives instead of t-shirts and mugs!?!
@@Brown969 Not as much profit margin when it's not mass produced in Asia.
@@LolitasGarden Sometimes (and this might be one of those times), it's not about the profit margin.
It's almost criminal, but EC has under a million subs. So just how much do you really think he makes on the merchandise? Probably not all that much compared to the videos, and both of those are almost certainly blown out of the water by his actual day job (remember he's not just "the spec house guy", he does custom forge-work and general contracting as well).
Sometimes, it's about providing a well informed opinion about which thing is the right thing to buy, and it might be my folly but I would trust EC's opinion on a good many things, without bothering to do much of my own research.
He's proven that he doesn't really have an ulterior motive, and on RUclips that's a rare thing to find indeed.
I don't have occasion to use an axe all that often, but I don't have one that's right for me when I do need it, and I'd be interested in owning an axe that EC recommends.
On the other hand, I wouldn't get much use out of a T-shirt or mug, as I already have enough of both of those things.
@@44R0Ndin It's not easy to approach designing and hiring a printer for t-shirts (etc.) and then coordinate getting them shipped out to all the people who order them. Then there's checks to cash and taxes to pay... I imagine it's just enough of a pain in the neck that if it didn't make you a certain amount of coin, it wouldn't be worth the trouble.
Man's making money from schwag.
Which is *not* dispicable - there's a demand to put logo on corpus and he can and should fill the need. But those mugs aren't by any stretch altruistic lagnappes.
Axes and Burke bars as schwag would be excellent, but they'd cost more than they should (to the consumer and the producer) to serve their purpose to the old man.
Awesome
When the internet gets dark and glum (which is basically everyday now) I come here for dinner wholesomeness.
I discovered the joy of a boy's axe this year. I'd been using a full size axe, and a hatchet for camping. I was growing tired of all that non-sense. Grabbed a boys axe, and immediately fell in love with it. It'll also fit nicely on my bike when I'm bike camping!
Without a doubt! My favorite channel on RUclips.
Thank you for your channel. I've learned a lot from you! As an automotive instructor, I coach the students that using a lighter hammer with a faster swing allows for better kinetic energy than a heavy hammer at a slower speed. The velocity squared component compared to the force, or weight, will have a greater effect on Kinetic energy. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
I say the same about shovels. I modified a regular shovel by shortening the handle and narrowed the blade. Use it for all except really loose material. Also have a micro excavator machine - thought I was going to park the shovels forever, but even though it does all the hard work, still need to hand shovel the precision stuff...
I've always found spades to be more useful than shovels - flat blade, square edges, easy to manipulate and more precise. That said, spades are more likely to end up biting a foot, just like a boys axe.
Being six foot, I can't work long with a short handled shovel... kills my back. All of my short handled shovels, a D handled scoop shovel, a D handled round point and a straight handled round point tend to gather rust. My long handled round and straight shovels are bright and shiny from use. My round point is on it's second head and the straight point has a welded piece of flat bar on the edge to keep it from wearing down. I try to be gentle with the handles, rough on the blades. I confess I went to fiberglass handles on my heavy use tools years ago. My framing hammer is almost fifty. Both the shiny shovels are over twenty, though all my gardening tools are good wood.
I think the typical shovel is designed to be multipurpose, do to everything when it's literally the only shovel that one has. It can pierce hard earth, sort of, can lift bulk loose material, sort of, can trench, sort of. I have a fairly large number of shovels and I tend to select based on the job at hand, only one I'm still looking for is one of the long-handled trencher spades with the short shovelhead.
The typical shovel still is fairly effective for basic digging straight down and cleaning roughly cleaning out the hole as one goes.
@@TWX1138 There always seems to be the right shovel for the right job. I have a neighbor that acquired the trenching spade you describe at an estate sale. I used it to transplant a line of hydrangea bushes. Two or three shoves around the base of the plant and a nice leveraged lift due to the way the handle was configured and out popped each plant, no root damage. Good luck finding the one you're looking for ... I would say they're worth having in your collection. They are a dream to work with for transplantation of shrubs, bushes and clumped bulbs like lilies.
My son-in-law laughed at my little axe and chose to use the big one. Long story, short, he now has a "boys axe". Great points on a great video. AND....hitting the handle is the correct way to drive the head on. Well done sir.
Not aurguing the point just saying. when no one ever tought you the rite way, is there really a wrong way? Doing what ya have to to get it dune, until some one who's been there see's an takes the time. Glad there ppl like him out here on RUclips. An yes there is a wrong way my first time ax head lasted a month tight. Then kept having to add shims. Then purchased a new one.
@@michaelmartinez5217 No shame in learning the hard way as long as you learned something.
My personal favorite axe that I'll grab for most jobs around the homestead that want an axe, is a Norlund boy's, or maybe Hudson Bay, head on a 32 inch haft. Light weight, small head that penetrates exceptionally well, with a bit of beard that lets me actually get my had up in behind the edge if I want to do some sort of fine task with it. Spectacular for limbing fallen trees, I can swing it all day with one hand. Personal preference. Also long enough not to get ankles ;) And the hatchet I go to first for my spoon carving work is a vintage Plumb Victory. You don't like hatchets, I Love this one, it's a near perfect tool, for my needs.
I just inherited a Norlund. It's a beauty.
What timing! I just got a Trail boss 27" to beat around with. My wife giggled at the little axe. We will see how it does. Got my father-in-law a Granfors Small Forest Axe a decade ago. Never heard a word about it until just recently. He said he uses it all the time. (he chops all his own wood and never uses a splitter). Hail the boy's axe!
picked up at an estate sale double bitted, single and a fireman's axes together with a beautiful double handle saw. also a few axe handles from the days gone by. all of these were from the 1930, 40 and 50s. love the look of an axe, such a beautiful and well engineered tool, the handle too!
I just finished a boys axe for a customer. New haft, cleaned up the head and painted it the original red. It was his Fathers and he was giving to his son as a gift. Cheap axe made in China but its looks darn good now. I was hanging a new haft on a Miller Falls hatchet for the same fella when this video came up. Excellent work Scott!
This video hit home with me, as I have the same conclusions that you have about axes. My most used axe is a vintage Evansville boys axe from the 30s. I have a small you tube channel (MR OBSOLETES VINTAGE HOMESTEADING) where I use vintage axes, tools, chainsaws, tractors etc. here in the Northwest. My last video was building a full size Evansville axe and wood handle maintenence. Your great advice on many topics has helped me on my videos. An example is the one on Sears boots. Just wanted to say thank you and keep making such excellent videos.
Best axe I ever had was an 18th cent. repro made by Elwell in England. It had a round poll with a long beard and weighed about 4lbs. The blade length is 7.5" with a 5" curved bit. It has a tapered hole so the handle enters from the top and wedges in like a tomahawk. It is the best wood splitter and chopper by a country mile. An old gunsmith taught me to use inletting black (or lamp black) inside the hole to leave marks where the high spots are. He showed me to use a broken Coca-Cola bottle to scrape the wood for a glove fit without a wedge. You can buy the head new for $30 online via an 18th century sutler. The hickory handle is $15. Can't beat it. Too heavy to carve or work one handed but it's an 18th century chainsaw.
Always great stuff! Thx
The two most important tips I picked up about re hafting an axe are this. As Eric did, leave the handle a little proud of the bit. This really helps keeping the handle from loosening. The second is to select a handle where the grain runs all the way from the bit to the handle and no sapwood in the handle at all. This really seems to reduce breakage, splinters and gives it a springier "feel". Great job!
Thank you Nate for sharing your dad with us.
Reminds me so much of the men I grew up around and admired, except he's all for passing on the wisdom of experience.
This guy works for a living! His hands and smashed fingernails are testament to that. What other honest RUclipsr can claim this?
I just love your videos even more now.
That’s cuz he’s not a RUclipsr or a worker he’s a Carpenter
A 3/4 Scout axe has been my favorite since 1962 when I got to use one in Boy Scouts. Still carry one and an old entrenching tool in all of my vehicles. A very good video. Tandy had a good sheath pattern for axes. I made them for my hand axes, double bit axes, and 3/4 axes. Good Luck, Rick
I very much appreciate your "mature" views on axe head weight and handle length.
Being 6'5" and 270 lbs, swinging a heavy axe, lifting, sawing, etc. has never been a problem until recently. With lower back surgery and two torn rotator cuffs, I'm a shadow of my former self. Still bpeing strong dosen't mean anything if swingin' a havy tool causes near paralysis for the next two days!
Great channel, just found you, just subscribed. Thanks for this great video!
On an Engine Company that I served on we kept a small axe like that for use in attics and underneath crawl spaces. The lighter weight was essential for not getting worn out in opening up and chasing fire in tight spaces and where you could never get a full swing with a large axe. Our little axe was a pick head. Probably a 2 pounder, the pick end was slightly more elongated than the large pick headed axes used for forcible entry and roof opening, perfectly balanced and a go to tool for inside work.
Yes! I've long had a heavy hatchet that I continually rehandle with a long straight handle. It's perfect for limbing or just basic wedge hammering when felling.
Side note - every time I end up rehandling it, I will bead blast and cold blue it again before the BLO.
I don't use glue on the wedge or use the metal one either. It makes it easier to adjust the handle of needed. I agree with you. This size is very useful for a large range of uses. Great video.
Last year I found a Swedish made " Boys" ax at a local Antique tool store and I absolutely love it!
Great information, I'm a tool guy myself, love watching and learning all the common sense ways of our trades and practices...
Where it comes to fitting any wood handle, I was taught that the rasp or file fits the bottom and the wedge fits the top. Also, instead of glue, I prefer to soak the handle and wedge in boiled linseed oil for a few minutes. It preserves the wood (and metal) within the eye and will not let the wedge slip after it cures. However, should I ever need to remove the wedge to refit or any other reason, it can be done without mangling the handle. Excellent video, good advice, and thank you.
I only own three axes today... one is a True Temper 2lb “boys” axe which is my go to and I keep in the truck every day, one a 2 1/2 lb Sager Cruiser that I only use when I’m out actually cutting timber for firewood and I bring an axe along. Lastly A few years ago I purchased a wetterlings 18” woodmans axe which I basically only use for camping trips and light duty where a shorter handle is worth the tradeoff. All can get it done because I keep them sharp, but the little 2lb axe is the best compromise.
This reminds me of Barry Bonds' preference on baseball bats. He selected a tiny bat, choked up on it, and treated his swing like using a pitching wedge in golf rather than a driver. Many of his most massive home runs were from a short and compact swing that look light and easy.
Something I've found that works when trying to work a head off a handle when test fitting is two work a thick dowel offcut down so that it fits in the top of the head and you can use it to help you bash the handle out, much easier than hitting the head
Another fantastic video! I use the Gränsfors bruks small forest axe a lot, it's great for splitting kindling, tidying up tough wood work, and you're right Scott, it's light enough to use it for hours.
With the risks of chopping your ankles etc... You've just got to be careful, feet wide, have some steel toe capped boots on. Shin pads might be a good trick for teenagers who are just learning these skills too?
Teenagers start them splitting with a LONG HANDLE and a good stump....once they build some strength and coordination get small and dangerous....they will already respect the tool by then ....In my 50s with 2 boys and 10 acres in northern British Columbia
4:00
The reason is not because you're getting older - of course we all are - but because of the kinetic energy. E= 1/2*m*v^2. The increase of the mass is only 0,5 times, but the speed is the real game changer.
I think you this better than most of us :)
Keep up the good work, greetings from Hungary!
Length and weight comment is genuinely helpful. It’s a good carrying size for canoeing or short distance backpacking. Thanks
A boy's axe is a small axe, but a Boys rifle is an anti-tank gun
boys will be boys lol
I've been a boy my whole life
i wonder how many people will get this
When you had the high speed hammering going on there, I was reminded of what my grandpa told me as a young boy. After watching me attempt to drive a nail a few times he said, "You Hammer like lightning.....you seldom ever strike twice in the same spot". I hadn't thought of that in years. Thanks for the reminder of my grandpa.
I have a Sager Michigan pattern double bitted axe date stamped 1944 It belonged to my Dad before me. If you look closely you can see that the axe is not symmetrical. One side is slightly shorter than the other. They were made that way for the reason that Gary P describes. Back when a man could make a living with an axe they understood them better. I was happy to see you use boiled linseed oil on the handle. When I buy a handle the first thing I do is shave the varnish off of it. Boiled linseed oil goes on once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.
A couple weeks ago and before this video, I purchased a boy's axe and absolutely love it. Nice video.
Another great video Scott. Thanks for taking the time to make and share them.
I like the monster maul. Usually only one shot per customer. I also use it as a force multiplier while running the hydraulic splitter. If you get a nasty log that doesn't want to cooperate, vertically place the maul on the flat business end of the splitter. Meaning if the wedge is on the ram, place the maul against the end plate and if the ram is the flat side, place the maul against it during the stroke. That way you have the log getting a wedge at both ends facing each other simultaneously. That's usually way too many psi for any log to endure.
This is the content I need in 2020. It proves that sanity, order, and good-natured humor still exist in some parts of the world.
My boys axe is my go-to for most things too. It can do most things well. From firewood, to processing game, it can most things I really want an axe to do, and packing it around is easy.
A good rule of thumb, when swinging an axe (overhead and chopping down), is that your target should never be higher than your belt and when the axe contacts the wood the handle should be parallel to the ground. Keep these two things in mind and you will never hit your foot, shin or any other part of your anatomy that you feel attached to and fond of. If/when you miss, there's enough handle between your hands and the head of the axe that the head is going to hit the dirt first.
Love the patina on that well-used handle.
I sand any new tool handles or wooden or bamboo kitchen utensils I get. (I've got a shovel with a fiberglass handle and I hate how it feels-- the temperature resistance, vibration, and flex are different from wood-- and my tools don't see constant heavy use, so I don't buy fiberglass-handled tools). That way they have the smooth, broken-in feel I want. Bare or oiled wood that's handled a lot gets a wonderful shine and smooth feel without losing grip.
I solved the Jr. Ax(e) being shorter by adding a "safety chopping roll".
The shorter chopping block in front of the regular chopping block that stands is 3- 4" inches lower than reguler chopping block. Great for training boys and youth.
Great safety measure that even I still after working things out.
Thxs for the vid
The video quality is amazingly crisp. Very high quality. One tip: ditch auto-focus when shooting video on a DSLR . Set focus manually and you’ll stop the camera from constantly hunting for focus.
I have a smaller/lighter axe like that with a really narrow blade grind on the head. Due to the lightness, it swings quicker and it chunks out the wood fast due to velocity not weight component of its impact momentum.
Check the adjustment of the sights on your hammer, judging from the old blood under left middle finger nail, perhaps they are off a smiggen.
Glue on the wedge, I learned something.
I have gotten old, instead of rasp a 80 grit disc on a die grinder.
You are a joy to watch!
One of the greatest exercises in patience. For a someone new to the trades . It teaches you to take care of the tools that take care of you and your livelihood.
Just like his 6 lb sledge with the handle cut down to 16"...which I did to mine. I think about how right he is whenever I swing it. What a gem!
'
When I fit in a new handle I always hold the axe up and look down the blade and handle to make sure it's inline because a Axe with a cooked or Cocked head is terrible for splitting/chopping..... Next time you're in a hardware store pick up a few and look down the length of them in relation to the blade.
I was just about to comment on the beautiful camera work then you made your genius comments and I laughed so much. I think we've all been there in some shape or form. Great camera work Nate.
I finally broke down and bought one for camping. Needless to say its outside the barn more than inside. I just need to get the hang of sharpening my axe.
I discoved this fact after deciding to add handles to some axe heads I had laying around. The local hardware store only had one length in stock. Initially I thought one axe head was grossly undersized compared to the handle, but was pleasantly surprised when I put it to use. It's awesome for knocking off branches and knots on logs I'm milling, and for shaving off bark on raised portions of the log.
I 100% agree the doublebit are sweet axes. Just restored a True Temper Flint Edge Kelly works. Only for looks
Two recommendations - Japanese Shinto Rasp, game changer for any type of rasping. 2. Japanese Push/pull flush cut saw…. Actually game changing for hanging
I could be mistaken, but from family history (Granddad was logging camp foreman, & we inherited his double-bit cruiser's axe engraved with his initials) I think the short handle allowed the cruiser to carry the axe more conveniently when scouting and marking a stand of timber. Granddad also used his to mark where he wanted his fallers to lay trees down. FWIW. Enjoyed your summary. I have a long handle and a hatchet; guess I should have a 'boy's axe' instead. (Oh boy ... an excuse for a new tool!)
I love axes, doing what you just did. I buy old head from yardsales and flea markets and give them a new lease on life. I made my daughter her very own axe and now I can't get her away from the wood pile. Love the channel and the message keep it up!!!
I agree completely. A lighter head on a longer handle allows that finer work but you can still get a really good hard swing at it. Up here in Alaska a lot of trappers use them we call them a trapper axe, never heard of it called boys axe
A cautionary word I learned the hard way. I scored an old axe at a yard sale for $2. I was doing the exact same thing Scott was showing in the vid. I was using a hammer to encourage the axe head to leave the handle. In the process of trying to remove the axe head a razor sharp shard of metal from the axe shot off and stabbed me in the shin. I was wearing shorts since it's still warm here in Texas so maybe some of this could have been avoided. I've never been stabbed in the shin but this felt like someone stuck me with a steak knife. A nice stream of blood ran down my shin into my sock. I didn't think too much about it hoping that the pain would subside but it didn't. I looked the wound over and didn't see anything hanging out of the skin so it confused me why it was hurting so much. The next day the wound was getting warm to the touch and it still hurt like hell. I start thinking there's something under the skin I couldn't see or feel. I go to the ER and they xray the area. Luckily there's nothing under the skin but it's infected. Evidently that shard of metal hit a nerve. A crappy little shard of metal went in deep enough to hit a nerve! The wound was in the middle of my shin and the pain went all they way down into my foot. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, if you are going to be pounding on anything hard with another hardened thing (hammer) put something soft in between them!!!! Aluminum, soft steel, brass, wood ... anything!! I always wear safety glasses but think if that had taken a path into my eye. Just my $.02
Like your use of the narrow wood chisle at the base of the axe.
You do know your tools Sir
Thanks for the teaching
My go to axe is a 2 1/2lb. Hudson Bay pattern "small forest axe. I found the axe head in the woods. No handle. I also found a 3 1/2 lb Michigan Pattern felling axe head in the woods. No handle. Both restored to really beautiful useful axes. Every time I hace purchased a preshaped axe handle it took a few hours of hand work to fit the handles to the heads. The Hudson Bay axe gets used often for multiple carpentry tasks.
a ferrier's rasp is great for wood working, especially roughing. A friend's dad gave me a boys axe many years ago and it is my favorite axe, very useful.
Also important but not mentioned in the video is the "hang" of the axe. I'm sure there are better words for all this, but if you hold the ax to a flat wall such that only the cutting edge and end of the handle touch the wall, you can check where along the cutting edge you make contact. This is much more difficult to adjust then merely getting the axe to fit onto the handle. I would aim to make that contact point near the middle, but a hair closer to the handle end of the blade.
Im in the process of putting a new 21 inch handle on mine. This is my kindling axe and I love it.
Couldn't agree more! - Just The perfect size - Great Video! - Keep em coming!
I was taught a different technique by my late father on replacing wooden handles on everything from hammers to hatchets to axes. This certainly requires gloves, but the technique is to take a glass jar (or even a drinking glass), put it into a container like a box or trash can, and break it. Then use a large glass shard as a scraper to shape the handle in the way you were using the rasp and files. I've used that technique on a number of tools over the years, but your method is probably safer overall. Anyway, thumb is up, and thanks as always for your content!
A cabinet scraper or similar could get you similar results with less danger. I like the idea behind that approach for sure though.
That's a nice hack if you don't have the tools.
Good morning. A new EC video to wake up to. Nothing beats that.
Always love your axe videos!! And would love even more of these and general forestry videos.
Cheers from Sweden
find the channel 2strokestuffing, he's a Norwegian guy who makes motorbike engines but he has a side project building a log cabin with only axes.
I've been looking to make myself an axe, but I couldn't settle on the shape. It's like you read my mind with this video
I started using a Stiletto back around 1990. I was the only guy I saw back then who had one. All the other dudes were swinging 28 oz. monsters. My elbow is pain free to this day. I loved that hammer. It was one of my favourite things. Funny eh, how a tool can mean so much.
I use and have for 60+ years a 13 oz. claw hammer to build anything which requires a claw hammer. That includes a house, a barn, several remodeling jobs and cabinet work. I am an amateur carpenter but I learned from my dad and uncles. Excess weight gets you tired faster.
Hey Scott, in watching you fit that handle, I know your old school and the file is a thing of beauty
But you might enjoy trying a Shinto saw rasp. it has a fine side and a course side and it’s function in the hand is essentially the same but it removes wood real good AND they’re like $20 bucks
Lol...I was thinking the exact same thing!
Agree. My 2.25 lbs axe with a 26” handle is my favourite, except for splitting. The round compression rings work much better than the flat wedge type when hafting an axe, or hammer.
I’m glad you spoke to the danger of a boys axe. I learned to kneel (as comfortably as possible) when using this axe and it’s much safer!
I used a cruising axe when I was running survey lines. One side was always very sharp for 'high work, the other side was reserved for working close to the ground.
thanks for the confirming the suspicion i've had for years. growing up, i had the option of a large axe, maul, hatchet, and machete. over time, i settled on using the large axe for splitting and then the boys axe and machete for everything else. i watched videos on hatchets, thinking i must have missed something or had the wrong type of hatchet. but everything that people would use a hatchet for, i'd rather use a machete or boys axe.
I too use a rasp to size my handle to the eye. Appreciate your channel.
Great video! I love rehandling axes and seeing how other people do it.
The Ax Book, by D. Cook, is a fantastic resource for anyone looking for more information.
My favorite is a Kelly Perfect double bit on a 36" straight handle, but I also like a Dayton single bit ax on a 36" handle. I like a light-ish head on a long handle because it gives you more smash with less weight. I'm a fan of straight handles over fawn's foot handles since I think they're more forgiving from an accuracy standpoint.
I have been saying the 28" handled axe is the one to use for cutting for a long time now . I cut a lot of live maples it is my favorite to down and to limb with speed over weight with a bit of leverage wins every time over the brutality of dead weight.
You can easily find replacement handles for an axe at most hardware stores. They usually have 20-30 of them, standing upright in a box with a small plastic bag stapled or taped to them, with a wooden wedge and one or two steel wedges to be driven in after the handle is fitted. BUT they are not all created equal. Take a minute to sort thru the available handles and look carefully at the end-grain. Choose the one with the grain direction going parallel to the axe head and the tighter the grain, the better. There will be handles there with the grain running completely perpendicular to the blade, and those should be avoided. They won’t be nearly as strong and will be much more prone to breaking again prematurely.
your videos help heal my soul sir, i have seen a lot of trauma in my life and nothing seems to do it for me like working with my hands, i hate that i have to live in a city.
Maybe tmi but I have used one processing a deer. Didn’t cut the meat into strips but it helped with quartering and it did help skinning
I love the "boys axe", I've been using one for my whole life. It's the best choice for lots of my chopping jobs. I do have a full size axe as well but it only gets used on occasion. Finding new handles for the boys axe is becoming difficult. Stores that carry the axe or a replacement handle are few and far between. The big box hardware/lumber stores don't carry them any more, probably since few people do much axe work nowadays.
My hatchet gets a TON of use ripping out drywall and other assorted demo. Use it all the time when I'm breaking up furniture for scrap as well. I don't think I've ever used a hatchet on a camp site though, and always bring 2.5lb short-handle (what you've been calling a "boy's axe") instead. I'd never split wood with a 2.5lb, unless I were in a pinch. I have a splitting maul for that.
I ended up with a nice weight axe a little by accident - the hoe portion broke off a Pulaski. Ground the broken neck off flush. It has a longer handle, but easily wielded. It lives in the pickup toolbox as a utility/just-in-case tool.
thats why when useing shorter axe is that you take wide stance with the feet so they are in line with the shoulders so if you miss the swing goes between the legs... and there is no race when chop wood.. when haveing the hatchet and holding the wood with one hand its mostly then the fingers starts to fly.. still remember when dad showed me he took the biggest axe and bury it deep in a birchstump. i struggled to get it out when i was done and got it out he said" when the axe is in your leg you dont have to struggle that mutch"
I love this channel. I want more men like this in our world.
I absolutely agree. As an all around pack axe this is just about the perfect weight/size
that music is so good, and suits the channel really well
If you a packing in some where and you could only take one tool I would agree that a boys axe is a good way to go. At 6'4" I prefer to use a 3.5-4lb single bit on a 32+" handle and carry a knife with a thicker spine for fine work or battoning. Even with that though can be a challenge to split large saw cut rounds of certain species of wood (chopping vs splitting style of heads). I have to beak out a 6lb axe eye maul for the really tough stuff. At least here in MN. To each their own. Thanks for the video!
The us forestry service has some really good videos on youtube including trail clearing,axe and crosscut saw usage,and even sharpening. A good rule of thumb when swinging an axe is to keep it on a vertical plane 90 degrees to the ground unless you're cutting on the opposite side of the log. My boys axe is fss made by council tool in north Carolina. The been in the biz for well over a hundred years and know how to make a good American made axe that doesn't cost several hundred dollars. If you can find yourself an fss version they're made from higher grade steel and hold an edge like nobodies business.