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So far so good! I know runout can be scary. I have two or three axes that are MUCH worse than these. Looking at them you feel like you’re looking at a grenade with the pin out. They’ve held out when much “better” handles have failed. A good handle is truly a mystery.

It really is!

I buffed it with steel wool, no grinding

Hello! Very likely that would work, but I think I’d want one closer to 2 lbs, a lot of cruisers are 2.5 lb or even a bit more. Thats more weight than I’d want on a short handle

I have no experience with it I couldn’t say. There are still a few council saddle axes out there and they’re still a decent price ~$50 I’d go with that for sure

If I couldn't get the saddle axe from CT I would hold out for a good vintage one. They are a bit rare but still pop up on eBay and Etsy every now and then for reasonable prices. Just make sure they are actually saddle axes and not worn down double bits!

It really was!

That's what got me into them! Part of it anyways. I made a nessmuk style knife too, and its a wonderful combination to have.

That’s a great one too! The Velvicut looks even more cool in person than the photos.

Yes they do, bolt right on

Wow! I saw just a handful out there when I was making the video. Apparently they are all gone now online. Hopefully some pop up on the secondary market

Good you got the order in! They did sell out fast, there weren't too many still out there

That would be awesome! I'd love to see what he would come up with. I think these are unfortunately it, though, at least for right now.

That would be an awesome idea! The flying fox is a great design, could absolutely be wonderful at a bunch of different weights.

Council Tool uses the best steel for axes and most companies won’t tell you what they are using.

Thank you!

I LOVE my camp carver. It is such a great chopper, I use it for woodworking, especially green woodworking, and everything about it is wonderful to use.

RUclips doesn't let me post links unfortunately! I need to have something like 10,000 subscribers to do that. There may be one or two out there, they were made during the Nessmuk movement a few years back, and I think Council Tool needed to discontinue them to free up production for other tools.

I find the handling characteristics of the CT Saddle Axe to be superior. As for durability, I never put them to a real test.

CT axes are by far the best bang for your buck. IMO.

They would be very different axes, but the quality is very good. The Council needs a bit of cleanup, but not much. I own several GB axes, and also many CT axes, they are all worth owning, but the value purchase is the CT for sure.

I use either anchor seal or sometimes latex paint if it's on sale as a mistint and really cheap. Both work quite well.

That’s a tough one. Definitely not the Russian axe. The council tool is more durable, but I really like the hang strength in the Gransfors. Honestly whichever of the two is closest I take.

@urbanlumberjack okay right on! I watched a couple of your other council tool videos, im very tempted to get one, but you know grans is like snap on of the axe game. It will be my first axe, I just wanna make sure I'm getting something worth using. They're not to far in price difference

Great knife!

I’ll look into that. I have a rough Ryder stockman and it’s a great knife. Hard to argue with the rough Ryder price point, I do feel like the case are priced higher than necessary

@urbanlumberjack it's kinda like the Japanese guitar stuff,lol. That's probably wrong too but you know what I mean. Yeah man, their T-10 is close to our 1095, definitely check it out.

I thought the same thing I was pretty disappointed in it when I got it. Even though a B grade it was still a “premium handle.” It’s held up though.

@urbanlumberjack That's Whiskey River's 30c right? I've hung a few axes on their handles, I've had very good luck with them. I always buy the "A" grade though. I have an old Craftsman head I hung on a 30c that is by far my best axe. The steel is almost too hard to file but not quite. It has an excellent shape and throws chips a lot better than my Jersey for example. I don't like axes that stick in the cut. My Jersey is a new one but it's got the phantom bevels. I wish there a little more material there in the cheeks....

@AnarchAngel1 it’s from WR, I’ll stick to the A handles from now on I think

@@urbanlumberjack Yeah, it looks like it's worth it based on your example. I have two 30c from them and there's almost zero runout on either of them. One has a little more heartwood than I would like but that's the only issue I have with them. I do understand your complaints about that sharp edge though. Mine are the same way and like you said, the handle thins out in such a way that I'm not comfortable removing too much material

Haha sorry, have prices gone up? They were pretty high on evil bay even before I published the video

Glad to have you! I haven’t done a video on this exactly, but I have a bunch of splitting videos, using everything from the arvika to splitting maul. If you’re in the U.S., council tool makes a great 7 lb splitting maul. I like it a lot for really big and tough rounds. For everything smaller I use either the council tool 6 lb forcible entry axe, or another of my splitters. The council 5 lb splitting axe is great for about any splitting task too. A good splitter should be pretty thick in the cheeks, a fairly short bit, but not too short, and between 5-8 pounds. Always a convex grind, and bevel set between 30-45 degrees. I use the “flick” method, buckin billy rays done a lot on that. Feel free to reach out with any other questions!

Thanks man you too! Liked the rundown on the council tool fe8.

Straight handle is the 28 and 36 is the curved. I just got the 28 inch it’s great

@@urbanlumberjack oh yeah, i forgot about that. Thanks! I have the 36 but that looks easier to maneuver around in close quarters than my 36. The 36 is good for pulling stuff out of my truck. Guess I need to get the 28 now. Haha🤘

That’s awesome! They will absolutely last forever

I got it at my local Ace Hardware. Should run about $5-$6

@urbanlumberjack thank you

just use regular white winegar, or ketchup or mustard or whatever acid you have around you.

@rastuch1234 that’s a good solution. I’ve never been happy with either though. Phosphoric acid patinas instead of rusts. I get a lot of rust with vinegar or mustard.

Love it! It’s only issue was the threads on the front knob stripped, but apparently if you call in about that issue they send a replacement for free, so now I have two! Fox was very easy I reset it with epoxy and it’s been sturdy since. The iron is high quality tool steel, takes an awesome edge. Works really well.

I’ve seen a lot about of videos about the knives, and so much of it is user error, or an unreasonable expectation for the product, The Chinese equivalent from rough Ryder is a bit over $20, and I bought one. It’s ok, but the quality isn’t even close to the case. Plus the case is made in the US, where we have prevailing wage laws and environmental and work regulations. I’m happy paying $80 for this knife, it’s a good value. We need to spend money like it has consequences for our country because it does.

@ I’d buy a Bear & Son large stockman. Which made in Jacksonville, Alabama. Case is not the only company that makes slip joint knives in the United States. 🤦‍♂️

@ Stop assuming random shit. I don’t buy Chinese knives. I’d get a Bear & Son large stockman instead of a Case, which is made in Jacksonville, Alabama.

I don’t believe so