I understand that I’m watching an experienced and skilled axeman with very high performance axes, but I just can’t believe how fast he cuts those beautiful notches. Whenever I use an axe I always end up thinking that they are extremely inefficient tools. But watching Kurt again confirms that I am the cause of the inefficiency. Great Axes! Great video! Great notches! Great channel!
He is, and those are big, efficient chopping axes. So much of efficient chopping is accuracy and the grind of the axe. But yes, Kurt makes look standing on top of the log look easy. I promise you it’s not.
Very impressive axe line up man👌👌👌Something about the Dandenongs I just love my favourite tassie design for sure, they seem to be super resistant to pitting even when left out in a wood shed for decades🤙🤙 Cheers for the pointers on the different grinds man will be sure to make use of it on my next resto. Keep them coming bro✊
Admirable axes Mr. Kurt...the KELLY was most impressive to me until you brought out the KEECH...the monster tree @14:50 is a beauty....your chopping skills are well maintained sir...nicely put together video Mr. Kurt...
Wow that is excellent chopping! I think those chips are about the size of my average piece of firewood. That shot at 9:50 or so is great, that notch makes a perfect circle. Also that Kelly is a beauty of an axe.
Great video Kurt. Good to see those axes get some action and also good to get your thoughts on the different grinds. After that, all I can think of is that I’ve got a lot more grinding to do! Thanks for the inspiration.
Excellent vid Kurt. Your a very experienced axeman. It really shows in this video. Your actually commentating whilst you chop. I would not have the air to talk after a few swings😂 Great work, thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Some beautiful metal in this one mate. Excellent chopping. I loved the perspective shot of you and that massive tree around the 15 minute mark. Good stuff! 👍🪓💪
The more I see of your first class content the more I learn 😊 if only my school teachers had been this interesting to listen to The big hollowed out tree looked big enough to live in for short periods so you wouldn't have to go home lol I started ripping my calluses again this week cos it's firewood splitting season and my 4lb prandi on 32" hickory stick is doing good - have you any tips for removing blood from axe handles ? Love your educational content - thank you 😊
Gday mate, much appreciated, glad to help! What's your Prandi, a Dayton pattern? I've heard they're pretty good. Not sure about getting blood out of handles, I'd prob just leave it there and add to the patina😁🪓
Don't know exactly what pattern my prandi is (it's Italian) its not a Dayton pattern - it's a bit like the Tassie you're using- the top and the bottom of the axe head when fitted are parallel to each other with a gentle curve of the bit - not too much in the way of bloated cheeks either - it just swings sweetly After today's gym session my prandi needs a shave and I need a bottle of radox.
Beautiful chopping as always! I have not got to the stage that I am playing around at grinding the cheeks yet but I am becoming interested in it. I love that green Craftsman, really good job on that one.
Gday Matt, thanks mate. Good thing about the old tassies is they're so full through the cheeks and centreline they have a lot of options. Not saying you have to, but you can. A Tui china is a good one to experiment on. Thanks, the green ones been a pretty cool all rounder! 👍👍🪓
Beautiful axemanship, Kurt! And the edge that you put on your axes is impressive. Something I need to learn a lot more about for my chopping axes. Great quality video as always 👍 keep up the great content, sir and God bless
14:20 What a nice collection. An excellent indication of how much (or little) a different edge design actually gives you in the end. I think I would go for the Kelly if I had the choice. Hard to judge just how big that tree really is until you actually get in the frame of the picture!
@@anthonycolbourne4206 thanks mate. The Kelly was closest in shape to a modern race axe and really did cut well. It's a bit more delicate than the others (more on this in an upcoming vid hopefully), but is really nice for clear timber. Cheers 👍👍 🪓
G’day Kirk just found your channel you sound like a great lad and know your axes 🪓 very interesting and informative ✌️Just for the record Cobber I’ve just subscribed to your channel, that’s how impressed I was!! I’m down here in Huonville Tasmania now and lovin it originally from Roleystone WA 👍
Gday James good on ya mate! Much appreciated 👍 That's a fair move from WA to Tassie, beaut part of the world though, Tassies on my bucket list for sure. Thanks again mate🇦🇺🪓🪓
I'm glad the guys i watch told me about your channel. I've been learning a lot from them and looking forward to do the same with your channel. Thanks for the great video. Be blessed.
NEW KURT VID HYPE WOO! Also perfect timing on this one, as I’ve recently been considering adjusting the grind I run on my tassie. Unmarked craftsman 20 degree chisel with the huge center line. Chops great in the north eastern US wood, but when splitting on the ground it can feel like it gets stuck before it can take advantage of that high center line. Maybe round out the transition with a super slight convex? Awesome vid as always!
Haha thanks mate! That's a great axe u got there. I've got one the same model I call the Tassie Racer, I love it. It's got the same grind as yours and by the sounds of it mine has the same issue. It's shown splitting in the vid "Camp Prep" and chopping briefly in "The Spotted Gum pt. 1" if u wanna check em out. In Camp Prep I was splitting some saw cut turpentine and it was doing the same sticking as yours and I considered modding it. Personally, I left it as a chopper, but If your keen on making it a bit better splitter, there's a few things you could do. Either: add a slightly steeper chisel to the edge to create a bit of a shoulder to alleviate the big flat of the 20; use an angle grinder to bring the phantom bevels further down towards the edge; or again use the angle grinder to carve a very slight hollow in the centre of the filed portion of the bit starting from say 15mm from the edge back to about 30, 35mm. Cheers for the support mate!👍👍🪓
Oh dude I cycle through your videos like they’re on a lazy Suzan. Easily my favorite out of the axe channels. Beautiful camera work and total focus on the best feeling parts of the axe hobby. Need 600 more. But anyway, back to business. I will be revisiting those! Always interesting to see when your experience is paralleled. With that many variables pinned down you can better learn from the small variances. Also, your final suggestion of putting a slight hollow behind the center might be the winner for me after I hit it with a few more subtle adjustments. Seems not to hurt the keech too much. That thing is a work of ART
I just saw this. I could watch your vids all day !! Your chopping is a goal to be aspired to ! My YUKON (unstamped CHALLENGER , 4 1/2 ) is nearly identical to yours. It pops chips like crazy.
Thanks for watching mate. Congrats on your first tassie, what the model? Best thing about a tassie is they're essentially a bare canvas you can grind how you want, from crazy splitter to super scalpel. Keep us updated on it! 👍👍🪓
Gday mate. I'm a big fan of closed hangs on most axes but it's pretty much a necessity on a tassie. With such a wide bit and broad, heavy head, hanging too open changes the whole feel of the axe (make it feel longer and awkward to swing) and also affects how it hits relative to where your standing (on the log, behind it etc). I'll keep this in mind for a future vid. Cheers for watching mate! 👍👍🪓
I use all my Tasmanian axes to split my firewood in the Pacific Northwest US. So I actually like the axe sharp but blunt behind the bit if that makes sense. Still fun content to watch, thanks for the cool info!
Gday mate, that's some beaut country your in up there. Do you mean you keep the cutting edge sharp, but a fairly wide angle? Is it mostly cedar and spruce up your way?
Yeah, wide angle sounds correct. Doesn’t stick as much when splitting the softer wood. Mostly Doug Fir, cedar and Hemlock. Then Maple and Alder for the hardwoods. Some of the fir is no joke to split, it would surprise a lot of people that scoff at the soft wood…no pun intended lol
@@jopsball-turret6969 I'm not that experienced at softwoods but have seen a bit that looks like it would be an absolute bugger to split. Had a go at some Radiata Pine recently, the small diameter stuff was no worries, but getting up into 10inch to 20inch and some of those limbs were a pain!
I enjoy and envy your opportunity to use and test these axes. I own many great branded axes such as gransfors bruk and Tuatahi, but they are mainly just for displaying.
I'm looking for advice on something for Jarrah, splitting and general chopping, thinking a Tassie pattern, maybe 2kg Hultafors Agdor? or something like a Muller American Felling?
Gday, hultafors and Muller both make great axes but both of those might be a bit thin to use for splitting (the current production Hultafors Agdor Tasmanian patterns are much thinner than the vintage ones). If your keen on a new axe, I'd look at the Helko Tasmanian 1.8kg or maybe the Hultafors Agdor Yankee/Dayton pattern in 1.5 or 1.8kg. All these new axes will need some degree of sharpening and handle tuning. If your happy to go a vintage axe and tune it yourself, Hytest, Brades, Elwell, Gilpin, or Plumb all make a good allrounder tassie. 👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 cheers, me mum has an old rusty Tassie pattern axe in her shed she used to split Jarrah with all the time. Was thinking from pics the only issue with the Hultafors may be that it's too thin in comparison. I found the 1.5Kg Yankee Agdors pretty cheap, so they're tempting. I do find restoring things a fun challenge. Grind, sand, polish, reprofile etc on something like a Kelly Dandenong or Hytest Challenger/Craftsman. There's a few ok heads out there I'm watching with minimal pitting. Thanks 👍
Nice breakdown and talk thru on the different attributes and design features of each axe...in a spectacular setting. To me in order of ease of performance it looked challenger, kelly, craftsman....though the extra weight on the keech really took it to next level. Silly Question? Why would that big old blackbutt have been ringbarked way back when?..especially since it was never dropped since? Another great piece of work mate. Cheers🙂
Gday Peter, not a silly question at all. I thought it a bit odd that this one was barked. A few reasons timber trees are ringbarked (aside from weed species) is to allow them to die standing to let them dry (and lighten) for later firewood harvest, or prob more likely or this big one, to let them die off slowly and allow more light to the ground for seedling germination. In some scenarios it can also save a lot of the ground disturbance and hard work you'd get if you were to fell or uproot it. A couple of incidental benefits is that by not removing the tree, as it breaks down naturally the biomass stays in the forest and the broken limbs and hollowing trunk provide food and habitat for animals. Cheers for watching mate!👍👍🪓
Gday mate, an axe is usually sticky because of either: the cheeks are too flat from heel (bottom) to toe (top) behind the grind; or, not enough relief/hollow between the ground edge and the eye. That's often why (apart from racing axes), vintage axes tend to perform better than new ones - most vintage axes tend to have a high centreline (swelling in the middle of the cheeks) to both lift the wood chip and minimise friction in the cut. Thanks for watching mate! 👍👍🪓🪓
Great video and thank you. Here in the US, used vintage tassie heads command a high price. Been thinking of a Helko Werk tassie axe....cheaper than paying an inflated price of other vintage tassies. And I know of no US manufacturer that makes one, except maybe a small forge/blacksmith that is willing to make one, but that will be a high price. I am surprise Council Tool does not make one. Ugh. BTW, hope you are wearing steel toe shoes.
Gday mate, no worries! The helko would be a good choice I reckon. They're readily available, good steel, come with a sheath and good hickory you can shape down nice. Imo they're more Tassie-like than the modern HB versions and considering the cost of vintage heads these days, a pretty fair price. Yeah I dunno why both Council and Granfors don't make a Tassie. It would be well within their abilities and if the did it right, for the right price, they'd sell thousands of em. I've tried to push for a Lamaca tassie too. Haha yep I live in my steel caps! 👍👍🪓
@four4bman979 Hey mate, just an update, I've recently heard of an American-made axe that might suit you. There's a YT channel called @Casterman2, who designed a couple axes and is getting them made by a blacksmith in WV. The model name is called the TimberPilot. It's not exactly a traditional tassie pattern but shares some characteristic. Another channel, @Brian2bears, has some testing vids on it, it might be worth a look. Not sure about price and its a bit beefier than the Helko (which I still recommend), but pretty cool👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 Thank you Kurt! Today is winter solstice in the northern hemisphere, so I am splitting oak firewood almost every day!! Bring your tassies and come join the fun!!! HAHAHA!! And, Merry Christmas, mate!!!
Gday mate, the grind and bit shape of the axe can make a difference with sticking, but if your looking for speed, try to "roll" the axe in and out of the wood in one motion. It's very subtle but creates a kind of slicing movement where the axe doesn't stop in the cut. Also, If the axe does get stuck (while standing on the log and bucking) you can use your knees to press against your forearms to pop it out. Hope this helps. Cheers for watching mate 👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 I never knew this, almost after every chop I waited and then removed the blade with difficulty. Now that I understand, I'll try it again. Thank you very much !
The challenger was very impressive on that first notch. I've definitely noticed how much handle length matters when bucking bigger wood. I think I've seen a video of an old basque man bucking bigger wood and he had 3 axes with different handle lengths for the top, middle and bottom of his notch. You think you're the only guy in your country bucking these hardwoods at such a large diameter? I was bucking some pretty hard stuff for awhile then went to pine and it was a dream. I bet if you got to buck pine you'd think you were buttering toast. Also as a guy who has, I know how annoying it is to lug all those axes somewhere haha.
Gday mate, cheers I thought the Challenger went pretty well too. Pretty sure I've seen that vid, was kind of in a alleyway between buildings?? That concept of the 3 handle lengths has merit I think. Chopping the top of the notch with the Kelly was noticeably uncomfortable, next time i find a proper big log I'll try to have it in the rotation for sure though. Competitive woodchoppers here can cut some big timber but usually with racing style axes, I think only me and Axes of Oz are dumb enough to do it with normal sized ones🤣 As far as pine goes, I've been working with fairly clear pine the last couple of weeks and without offending anyone I gotta say..it's like buttering toast! So much fun though Yeah we'd prob get some strange looks if we got pulled over with a back seat full of axes lol BTW I've got some catchin up to do on some of your vids! Been a bit out of it lately
@@kurts64 Thinking about you getting to chop pine makes smile! Since i had a similar experience with cutting pine I think it's hilarious that you got to experience it compared to your concrete trees. Conifers can have a lot of knots but I think even knotty pine is 10 times easier than what you are dealing with most of the time. I'd love to see a comparison video if you can find a similar sized hardwood and conifer. Just to see and hear your thoughts on how insanely different cutting the two are. Pin oak and American beech are not close to as hard as the stuff you cut and the difference between those and pine is massive. Was good to see you taking some moisture readings. Even at 15 inch diameter trees just don't dry inside for what seems like an eternity. I say they usually rot before they dry. Speaking of rot do you guys have rot resistant trees? On the west coast here there are redwood stumps that can be 150+ years old. We also have black locust which is extremely resistant. We get to see old signs of loggers on those old redwood stumps, stuff is very cool. That big dead tree was huge and comically hard. I think that's about the biggest diameter I see on my coast of the US. Sycamore and white oak, about 5-6ft. I know there's bigger but that's what i've seen regionally. Unfortunately I wasn't alive for the American chestnut tree. A blight hit and killed nearly all of them. They were massive. Rivaling the diameter of the redwoods but about half as tall.
@@ethicalaxe it has been good fun clearing the pines. Ranged in size from 1 inch to about 10, with some bigger ones over 20. The smaller ones would make perfect cordwood sized, a few hits with a sharp axe and your through em. Mostly been using a 2.25lb boys axe, there's just no need for any bigger, which has been interesting and shows why that size is so popular in other parts of the world. Makes me look at the design of the Swedish forest axes with a bit more respect, they really would be an ideal axe for that environment. Most gums are very durable and rot resistant but between bugs and bushfires it's not common to find decent sized stumps that aren't hollow. I've seen some of those big sycamore on YT, they're a pretty impressive tree. Would be awesome so see some of those redwood in person
I'm looking at a tazzy but I can't find any info on it. They say it's a kelly tasmania axe but the only stamp it has on it is "chest quality D.A.D." any idea on this axe head. It says department of defense but idk
@@tjpighin gday mate, I had to ask a mate for help on this one but I know the head your talkin about, I've not seen that stamp before but it does look like a Kelly axe, and a pretty full bit too. Worth keeping an eye on, I reckon👍👍🪓
Some beautiful axes mate 🤙 The grind on the Kelly looks very, very nice. A little longer handle if your tall is good if your back is a bit how ya goin 😉
Gday mate, cheers! The Kelly is a keeper for sure. It's longer handle felt a bit odd to start with but definitely saves reaching down so much on bigger logs 👍👍🪓
Gday mate, for years I just used a kids pivoting ruler and a protractor/compass, like from a school maths set. Couple of bucks. A better option though is a Digital Angle finder (like a pivoting ruler with a little screen on it) about 300mm long. This lets you measure both cheek and edge bevel angles. For quickly measuring just the edge angle, I use an Engineered For Axemen "Work Axe" angle gauge. A super budget option that works is 2 old hacksaw blades riveted together to pivot, measured up against a compass. Cheers for watching mate👍👍🪓
Great video! I just got my first Tassie over Christmas. A no name 4 1/2 pound on a spotted gum handle. Has a terrible grind but lots of meat to play with! That gum is some heavy wood. Should be a fun axe to mess with! @Brian2Bears sent me over❤️🪓💚
I understand that I’m watching an experienced and skilled axeman with very high performance axes, but I just can’t believe how fast he cuts those beautiful notches. Whenever I use an axe I always end up thinking that they are extremely inefficient tools. But watching Kurt again confirms that I am the cause of the inefficiency. Great Axes! Great video! Great notches! Great channel!
Gday Benton, thanks as always for the support mate! 👍👍🪓
He is, and those are big, efficient chopping axes. So much of efficient chopping is accuracy and the grind of the axe. But yes, Kurt makes look standing on top of the log look easy. I promise you it’s not.
@@KevinsDisobedience thanks mate!👍👍
From context to filming to axemanship, outstanding! Thanks Kurt.👏❤️
Cheers Bjarne, thanks for watching mate!👍👍🪓
Beautiful axes those grinds are impressive
Cheers mate! 👍👍🪓
Great video Kurt. Nice work on those axes 🪓 to brother. Killinger sent me over.....👍🤙
Gday mate, cheers for checkin out the vids, and for supporting Chris too. Much appreciated! 👍👍🪓
Beautiful and interesting video Kurt! Awesome chopping!
Gday Hank, thanks mate!👍👍🪓
Very impressive axe line up man👌👌👌Something about the Dandenongs I just love my favourite tassie design for sure, they seem to be super resistant to pitting even when left out in a wood shed for decades🤙🤙 Cheers for the pointers on the different grinds man will be sure to make use of it on my next resto. Keep them coming bro✊
Gday mate, no worries! Sorry for the late response. Yep I'm a big fan of the Aussie made Dandenongs too, a good profile. Cheers mate!👍👍🪓
What's up Kurt! Great video, I've got more than a few tassi axe heads and they all have a little different grind. Fun axes! Brian in Oregon
Gday mate, that's cool you got a couple up there👍👍🪓
Admirable axes Mr. Kurt...the KELLY was most impressive to me until you brought out the KEECH...the monster tree @14:50 is a beauty....your chopping skills are well maintained sir...nicely put together video Mr. Kurt...
Thanks a lot Mr B!👍👍🪓
Wow that is excellent chopping! I think those chips are about the size of my average piece of firewood.
That shot at 9:50 or so is great, that notch makes a perfect circle. Also that Kelly is a beauty of an axe.
Thanks mate! Got some more Kelly coming up soon hopefully, just gotta catch up on a stack of editing 🤣
Really interesting video mate, the Kelly looks like a beauty!
Gday mate, cheers! The Kelly will be back soon! 👍👍🪓
Great video Kurt. Good to see those axes get some action and also good to get your thoughts on the different grinds. After that, all I can think of is that I’ve got a lot more grinding to do! Thanks for the inspiration.
Gday mate, no worries, cheers for watchin! Haha good excuse for some shed time👍👍🪓
Excellent vid Kurt. Your a very experienced axeman. It really shows in this video. Your actually commentating whilst you chop. I would not have the air to talk after a few swings😂
Great work, thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Gday mate, no worries thanks alot for checkin out the vid! Cheers👍👍🪓
It's a pleasure to watch some good axemanship.
Thanks a lot mate!👍👍🪓
Your videos are always great Kurt👍🏻 hope you’re well my friend.
Gday Doug, cheers mate!👍👍🪓
Nice selection there, interesting to see the variations
Cheers Ben!👍👍🪓
Some beautiful metal in this one mate. Excellent chopping. I loved the perspective shot of you and that massive tree around the 15 minute mark. Good stuff! 👍🪓💪
Cheers Brett! Is a big tree, could probably camp in the trunk if not for the snakes spiders and scorpions haha
The more I see of your first class content the more I learn 😊 if only my school teachers had been this interesting to listen to
The big hollowed out tree looked big enough to live in for short periods so you wouldn't have to go home lol
I started ripping my calluses again this week cos it's firewood splitting season and my 4lb prandi on 32" hickory stick is doing good - have you any tips for removing blood from axe handles ?
Love your educational content - thank you 😊
Gday mate, much appreciated, glad to help! What's your Prandi, a Dayton pattern? I've heard they're pretty good. Not sure about getting blood out of handles, I'd prob just leave it there and add to the patina😁🪓
Don't know exactly what pattern my prandi is (it's Italian) its not a Dayton pattern - it's a bit like the Tassie you're using- the top and the bottom of the axe head when fitted are parallel to each other with a gentle curve of the bit - not too much in the way of bloated cheeks either - it just swings sweetly
After today's gym session my prandi needs a shave and I need a bottle of radox.
I wonder if anyone else ever wonders through the bush and finds your notches. Thing a beauty if they know what they’re looking at.
🤣🤣I've wondered that a few times! There's some in some pretty weird places to, would probably spin out the average hiker lol
Funny you mention that Kevin. I've wondered and thought the exact same thing !
👍
Beautiful chopping as always! I have not got to the stage that I am playing around at grinding the cheeks yet but I am becoming interested in it. I love that green Craftsman, really good job on that one.
Gday Matt, thanks mate. Good thing about the old tassies is they're so full through the cheeks and centreline they have a lot of options. Not saying you have to, but you can. A Tui china is a good one to experiment on.
Thanks, the green ones been a pretty cool all rounder! 👍👍🪓
You sir have great accuracy and give very detailed information, thanks! A pleasure to watch you work.
Gday Daniel, much appreciated mate, cheers for watching!👍👍🪓
Tassi master class, thanks man!
Thanks for watchin mate!👍👍🪓
Beautiful axemanship, Kurt! And the edge that you put on your axes is impressive. Something I need to learn a lot more about for my chopping axes. Great quality video as always 👍 keep up the great content, sir and God bless
Gday mate, cheers!👍👍🪓
14:20 What a nice collection. An excellent indication of how much (or little) a different edge design actually gives you in the end. I think I would go for the Kelly if I had the choice. Hard to judge just how big that tree really is until you actually get in the frame of the picture!
@@anthonycolbourne4206 thanks mate. The Kelly was closest in shape to a modern race axe and really did cut well. It's a bit more delicate than the others (more on this in an upcoming vid hopefully), but is really nice for clear timber. Cheers 👍👍 🪓
G’day Kirk just found your channel you sound like a great lad and know your axes 🪓 very interesting and informative ✌️Just for the record Cobber I’ve just subscribed to your channel, that’s how impressed I was!! I’m down here in Huonville Tasmania now and lovin it originally from Roleystone WA 👍
Gday James good on ya mate! Much appreciated 👍 That's a fair move from WA to Tassie, beaut part of the world though, Tassies on my bucket list for sure. Thanks again mate🇦🇺🪓🪓
I'm glad the guys i watch told me about your channel. I've been learning a lot from them and looking forward to do the same with your channel. Thanks for the great video. Be blessed.
Gday Joe, thanks a lot mate! Very much appreciated 👍👍🪓
Very good axe skills, you make me proud to be an Aussie
@@bunndyboy Gday mate, cheers👍🪓🪓🇦🇺
Great test & they all performed!
You seriously have some of the nicest axes I've seen on RUclips. You do a great job on those.
Thanks a lot mate, much appreciated! Lots of fine tuning over the years but there's always more to learn and new stuff to try. Cheers!👍👍🪓
NEW KURT VID HYPE WOO! Also perfect timing on this one, as I’ve recently been considering adjusting the grind I run on my tassie. Unmarked craftsman 20 degree chisel with the huge center line. Chops great in the north eastern US wood, but when splitting on the ground it can feel like it gets stuck before it can take advantage of that high center line. Maybe round out the transition with a super slight convex? Awesome vid as always!
Haha thanks mate! That's a great axe u got there. I've got one the same model I call the Tassie Racer, I love it. It's got the same grind as yours and by the sounds of it mine has the same issue. It's shown splitting in the vid "Camp Prep" and chopping briefly in "The Spotted Gum pt. 1" if u wanna check em out. In Camp Prep I was splitting some saw cut turpentine and it was doing the same sticking as yours and I considered modding it. Personally, I left it as a chopper, but If your keen on making it a bit better splitter, there's a few things you could do. Either: add a slightly steeper chisel to the edge to create a bit of a shoulder to alleviate the big flat of the 20; use an angle grinder to bring the phantom bevels further down towards the edge; or again use the angle grinder to carve a very slight hollow in the centre of the filed portion of the bit starting from say 15mm from the edge back to about 30, 35mm.
Cheers for the support mate!👍👍🪓
Oh dude I cycle through your videos like they’re on a lazy Suzan. Easily my favorite out of the axe channels. Beautiful camera work and total focus on the best feeling parts of the axe hobby. Need 600 more. But anyway, back to business. I will be revisiting those! Always interesting to see when your experience is paralleled. With that many variables pinned down you can better learn from the small variances. Also, your final suggestion of putting a slight hollow behind the center might be the winner for me after I hit it with a few more subtle adjustments. Seems not to hurt the keech too much. That thing is a work of ART
@@ryanburchfield7097 cheers Ryan, keep us updated if you do end up modding it out! 👍👍🪓
I just saw this. I could watch your vids all day !! Your chopping is a goal to be aspired to !
My YUKON (unstamped CHALLENGER , 4 1/2 ) is nearly identical to yours. It pops chips like crazy.
Cheers Glen! Much appreciated mate 👍🪓
60 blows for the CHALLENGER
74 blows for the 4 lb CRAFTSMAN
Great video. Thanks for the information. I'm going to be hanging my first Tassie soon and was wondering what the grind should be.
Thanks for watching mate. Congrats on your first tassie, what the model? Best thing about a tassie is they're essentially a bare canvas you can grind how you want, from crazy splitter to super scalpel. Keep us updated on it! 👍👍🪓
Looking at the stills and watching you clear out the far wood so cleanly, perhaps you could comment on the more closed hangs I see on your axes.
Gday mate. I'm a big fan of closed hangs on most axes but it's pretty much a necessity on a tassie. With such a wide bit and broad, heavy head, hanging too open changes the whole feel of the axe (make it feel longer and awkward to swing) and also affects how it hits relative to where your standing (on the log, behind it etc). I'll keep this in mind for a future vid. Cheers for watching mate! 👍👍🪓
You R an axe hound! Beautiful tools.
Haha cheers mate 👍👍🪓
I use all my Tasmanian axes to split my firewood in the Pacific Northwest US. So I actually like the axe sharp but blunt behind the bit if that makes sense. Still fun content to watch, thanks for the cool info!
Gday mate, that's some beaut country your in up there. Do you mean you keep the cutting edge sharp, but a fairly wide angle? Is it mostly cedar and spruce up your way?
Yeah, wide angle sounds correct. Doesn’t stick as much when splitting the softer wood. Mostly Doug Fir, cedar and Hemlock. Then Maple and Alder for the hardwoods. Some of the fir is no joke to split, it would surprise a lot of people that scoff at the soft wood…no pun intended lol
@@jopsball-turret6969 I'm not that experienced at softwoods but have seen a bit that looks like it would be an absolute bugger to split. Had a go at some Radiata Pine recently, the small diameter stuff was no worries, but getting up into 10inch to 20inch and some of those limbs were a pain!
Great vid mate beautiful lookin axes by the way 🤙
Cheers mate!👍👍🪓
Great vid mate. Thanks for sharing
Gday mate, no worries cheers for checkin it out!👍👍🪓
Wow! Amazing laser accuracy!
Cheers mate! 👍🪓🪓
I enjoy and envy your opportunity to use and test these axes. I own many great branded axes such as gransfors bruk and Tuatahi, but they are mainly just for displaying.
@@MrKhiem-vy6hd thanks for watching mate, sounds like you got some good ones! 👍🪓
I'm looking for advice on something for Jarrah, splitting and general chopping, thinking a Tassie pattern, maybe 2kg Hultafors Agdor? or something like a Muller American Felling?
Gday, hultafors and Muller both make great axes but both of those might be a bit thin to use for splitting (the current production Hultafors Agdor Tasmanian patterns are much thinner than the vintage ones). If your keen on a new axe, I'd look at the Helko Tasmanian 1.8kg or maybe the Hultafors Agdor Yankee/Dayton pattern in 1.5 or 1.8kg. All these new axes will need some degree of sharpening and handle tuning.
If your happy to go a vintage axe and tune it yourself, Hytest, Brades, Elwell, Gilpin, or Plumb all make a good allrounder tassie. 👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 cheers, me mum has an old rusty Tassie pattern axe in her shed she used to split Jarrah with all the time. Was thinking from pics the only issue with the Hultafors may be that it's too thin in comparison. I found the 1.5Kg Yankee Agdors pretty cheap, so they're tempting.
I do find restoring things a fun challenge. Grind, sand, polish, reprofile etc on something like a Kelly Dandenong or Hytest Challenger/Craftsman. There's a few ok heads out there I'm watching with minimal pitting.
Thanks 👍
Nice breakdown and talk thru on the different attributes and design features of each axe...in a spectacular setting.
To me in order of ease of performance it looked challenger, kelly, craftsman....though the extra weight on the keech really took it to next level.
Silly Question?
Why would that big old blackbutt have been ringbarked way back when?..especially since it was never dropped since?
Another great piece of work mate.
Cheers🙂
Gday Peter, not a silly question at all. I thought it a bit odd that this one was barked. A few reasons timber trees are ringbarked (aside from weed species) is to allow them to die standing to let them dry (and lighten) for later firewood harvest, or prob more likely or this big one, to let them die off slowly and allow more light to the ground for seedling germination. In some scenarios it can also save a lot of the ground disturbance and hard work you'd get if you were to fell or uproot it.
A couple of incidental benefits is that by not removing the tree, as it breaks down naturally the biomass stays in the forest and the broken limbs and hollowing trunk provide food and habitat for animals.
Cheers for watching mate!👍👍🪓
Nice work mate
Thanks mate👍👍🪓
Hey Kurt so what is it that make an axe “stickier”? Epic vid too 👍
Gday mate, an axe is usually sticky because of either: the cheeks are too flat from heel (bottom) to toe (top) behind the grind; or, not enough relief/hollow between the ground edge and the eye. That's often why (apart from racing axes), vintage axes tend to perform better than new ones - most vintage axes tend to have a high centreline (swelling in the middle of the cheeks) to both lift the wood chip and minimise friction in the cut.
Thanks for watching mate! 👍👍🪓🪓
@@kurts64 awesome, makes sense, thanks mate.
Great video, Kurt🙏🏿🇺🇸🪓
Thanks James, hope your well mate!👍👍🪓
You ever get your hands on a Forester? I'd love to get one, but damn they are not cheap.
Gday mate, they are a nice axe for sure but yep gettin pretty pricey these days! 👍👍🪓
Great video and thank you. Here in the US, used vintage tassie heads command a high price. Been thinking of a Helko Werk tassie axe....cheaper than paying an inflated price of other vintage tassies. And I know of no US manufacturer that makes one, except maybe a small forge/blacksmith that is willing to make one, but that will be a high price. I am surprise Council Tool does not make one. Ugh. BTW, hope you are wearing steel toe shoes.
Gday mate, no worries! The helko would be a good choice I reckon. They're readily available, good steel, come with a sheath and good hickory you can shape down nice. Imo they're more Tassie-like than the modern HB versions and considering the cost of vintage heads these days, a pretty fair price.
Yeah I dunno why both Council and Granfors don't make a Tassie. It would be well within their abilities and if the did it right, for the right price, they'd sell thousands of em. I've tried to push for a Lamaca tassie too.
Haha yep I live in my steel caps! 👍👍🪓
@four4bman979 Hey mate, just an update, I've recently heard of an American-made axe that might suit you. There's a YT channel called @Casterman2, who designed a couple axes and is getting them made by a blacksmith in WV. The model name is called the TimberPilot. It's not exactly a traditional tassie pattern but shares some characteristic. Another channel, @Brian2bears, has some testing vids on it, it might be worth a look. Not sure about price and its a bit beefier than the Helko (which I still recommend), but pretty cool👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 Thank you Kurt! Today is winter solstice in the northern hemisphere, so I am splitting oak firewood almost every day!! Bring your tassies and come join the fun!!! HAHAHA!! And, Merry Christmas, mate!!!
@@four4bman979 haha cheers, merry Christmas mate👍👍🪓🌲
Kurt when you are not busy, which is probably never ha ha can you do a video of your axe collection. thanks
Gday mate, I'll keep that in mind! 👍👍🪓
Just subbed from Indiana Doug’s post
Gday mate, cheers! 👍👍🪓
The appearance was that all 3 stuck about. The same amount of times and took similar amount of effort to unstick.
Do you know how to get the ax blade out as quickly as possible after cutting into wood?
Gday mate, the grind and bit shape of the axe can make a difference with sticking, but if your looking for speed, try to "roll" the axe in and out of the wood in one motion. It's very subtle but creates a kind of slicing movement where the axe doesn't stop in the cut. Also, If the axe does get stuck (while standing on the log and bucking) you can use your knees to press against your forearms to pop it out. Hope this helps. Cheers for watching mate 👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 I never knew this, almost after every chop I waited and then removed the blade with difficulty. Now that I understand, I'll try it again. Thank you very much !
The challenger was very impressive on that first notch. I've definitely noticed how much handle length matters when bucking bigger wood. I think I've seen a video of an old basque man bucking bigger wood and he had 3 axes with different handle lengths for the top, middle and bottom of his notch.
You think you're the only guy in your country bucking these hardwoods at such a large diameter? I was bucking some pretty hard stuff for awhile then went to pine and it was a dream. I bet if you got to buck pine you'd think you were buttering toast.
Also as a guy who has, I know how annoying it is to lug all those axes somewhere haha.
Gday mate, cheers I thought the Challenger went pretty well too. Pretty sure I've seen that vid, was kind of in a alleyway between buildings?? That concept of the 3 handle lengths has merit I think. Chopping the top of the notch with the Kelly was noticeably uncomfortable, next time i find a proper big log I'll try to have it in the rotation for sure though.
Competitive woodchoppers here can cut some big timber but usually with racing style axes, I think only me and Axes of Oz are dumb enough to do it with normal sized ones🤣
As far as pine goes, I've been working with fairly clear pine the last couple of weeks and without offending anyone I gotta say..it's like buttering toast! So much fun though
Yeah we'd prob get some strange looks if we got pulled over with a back seat full of axes lol
BTW I've got some catchin up to do on some of your vids! Been a bit out of it lately
@@kurts64 Thinking about you getting to chop pine makes smile! Since i had a similar experience with cutting pine I think it's hilarious that you got to experience it compared to your concrete trees. Conifers can have a lot of knots but I think even knotty pine is 10 times easier than what you are dealing with most of the time.
I'd love to see a comparison video if you can find a similar sized hardwood and conifer. Just to see and hear your thoughts on how insanely different cutting the two are. Pin oak and American beech are not close to as hard as the stuff you cut and the difference between those and pine is massive. Was good to see you taking some moisture readings. Even at 15 inch diameter trees just don't dry inside for what seems like an eternity. I say they usually rot before they dry.
Speaking of rot do you guys have rot resistant trees? On the west coast here there are redwood stumps that can be 150+ years old. We also have black locust which is extremely resistant. We get to see old signs of loggers on those old redwood stumps, stuff is very cool.
That big dead tree was huge and comically hard. I think that's about the biggest diameter I see on my coast of the US. Sycamore and white oak, about 5-6ft. I know there's bigger but that's what i've seen regionally. Unfortunately I wasn't alive for the American chestnut tree. A blight hit and killed nearly all of them. They were massive. Rivaling the diameter of the redwoods but about half as tall.
@@kurts64 I'm not quite sure where the basque man was chopping but I do think I remember him not being in the woods. Kind of a concrete environment.
@@ethicalaxe it has been good fun clearing the pines. Ranged in size from 1 inch to about 10, with some bigger ones over 20. The smaller ones would make perfect cordwood sized, a few hits with a sharp axe and your through em. Mostly been using a 2.25lb boys axe, there's just no need for any bigger, which has been interesting and shows why that size is so popular in other parts of the world. Makes me look at the design of the Swedish forest axes with a bit more respect, they really would be an ideal axe for that environment.
Most gums are very durable and rot resistant but between bugs and bushfires it's not common to find decent sized stumps that aren't hollow. I've seen some of those big sycamore on YT, they're a pretty impressive tree. Would be awesome so see some of those redwood in person
I'm looking at a tazzy but I can't find any info on it. They say it's a kelly tasmania axe but the only stamp it has on it is "chest quality D.A.D." any idea on this axe head. It says department of defense but idk
@@tjpighin gday mate, I had to ask a mate for help on this one but I know the head your talkin about, I've not seen that stamp before but it does look like a Kelly axe, and a pretty full bit too. Worth keeping an eye on, I reckon👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 ok thank you
Some beautiful axes mate 🤙 The grind on the Kelly looks very, very nice. A little longer handle if your tall is good if your back is a bit how ya goin 😉
Gday mate, cheers! The Kelly is a keeper for sure. It's longer handle felt a bit odd to start with but definitely saves reaching down so much on bigger logs 👍👍🪓
Hello Kurt, when measuring angles on your axes what do you use, please. ?
Gday mate, for years I just used a kids pivoting ruler and a protractor/compass, like from a school maths set. Couple of bucks. A better option though is a Digital Angle finder (like a pivoting ruler with a little screen on it) about 300mm long. This lets you measure both cheek and edge bevel angles. For quickly measuring just the edge angle, I use an Engineered For Axemen "Work Axe" angle gauge.
A super budget option that works is 2 old hacksaw blades riveted together to pivot, measured up against a compass.
Cheers for watching mate👍👍🪓
@@kurts64 thanks Kurt, found your channel today , enjoying your videos, catching up on a few, learning as I watch . Cheers mate 👍🇦🇺
@@ericchilver9113 Awesome mate, no worries! 👍👍🪓🇦🇺
Nice video bushie
Cheers for checkin it out mate!👍👍🪓
No Tuatahi work axe?
I'll get my hands on one one day! They're a beauty axe for sure🪓 🪓
I can't say which chopped better, but the Kelly wins the beauty contest. (excluding the Keech)
Cheers Joey, she's a good one! The Kelly was the inspiration for the green Hytest. Loving that worn-in paint look!
Impressve as always!
Thanks a lot mate!👍👍🪓
Any double bit axes?
Unfortunately not, pretty hard to find down here. Would be cool to try a 3.5lb double and a 2.5 cruiser👍👍🪓
I’ve bought lots of tassies from Dan Gill also
Cool, he's a good bloke. Cheers for checkin out the vid! 👍👍🪓
Nice!
Cheers mate 👍👍🪓
71 for the Keech.
My counts may be off a little. Ill have to watch it again
73 blows for the Dandenong
61 blows for the CHALLENGER
The Keech did not stick.
May I buy your axe, please？
Sorry mate these ones are keepers! Cheers for watching👍👍🪓
Great video! I just got my first Tassie over Christmas. A no name 4 1/2 pound on a spotted gum handle. Has a terrible grind but lots of meat to play with! That gum is some heavy wood. Should be a fun axe to mess with!
@Brian2Bears sent me over❤️🪓💚
Gday John, congrats on the first tassie! Cheers for the support, and for supporting B2B as well!👍👍🪓
Fern
You can swing an axe! 🪓 👍 do you have any Kelly wax 002 ?
Cheers mate! Nah I've never tried a Wax 1 or 2 model, they seem like a nice one though 👍👍🪓
They are very similar to the dandenong, slightly thicker
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