You can get the miniature and brushes used in the video here: www.squidmar.com/latepledge Down below you can find all colors used in the video: Skin Colors: Kantor Blue Busman’s Glow Kislev flesh Light flesh Ivory Red parts: Kantor blue Khorne Red Evil suns Scarlett Wild rider red Ivory Gold: Kantor blue Deathclaw brown Sun yellow Ivory Sword: Kantor blue Fenrisian grey Ivory Deathclaw brown Black Black parts in between armor: Black Stormvermin fur Ivory Gems: Kantor blue Moot green Livery green Ivory Base: Kantor blue Caliban green Skarsnik green Ivory
Hey Emil, would you consider doing a video with a much less experienced painter where you both follow the same painting tutorial steps? It would be super helpful for some of us less experienced painters to see what to expect at the end for _our_ skill level when painting a mini, instead of getting a bit disheartened when it doesn't look like yours. I think the comparison would really help your viewers to improve faster. Thanks!
The quick sentence.."...put the highlight up to the edge" is SUCH key advice for painting muscle sections that I feel most people need! The shadow on the muscle above always has a shadow and I would leave a shadow at the top of the muscle belowas well aftaid if i went to the top it would kill the shadow of the muscle above and it always gave the island look. But go all the way up!
Great guide, guys! Internet is overburdened with 'fast painting', 'slap chop', 'contrast painting' and so on. Your detailed guide about display level model painting like a sip of the fresh air! Thank you!
Just putting my thought out there, my favorite part of this paint job is honestly the foot reflection on the sword. My jaw actually dropped when I saw it! Great work, Lukas!
@@bogglespc6012 I have 60 or so citadel paints I really enjoy using and it’s worth it to me it’s very cheap to transfer. I use AK, Vallejo etc as well so it’s not necessary but especially when referencing something new to paint the amount of time I’d spend searching and buying the equivalent is more time than just buying the citadel paint
Hi Emil Thank you, for the Master Classes! You have helped my Kids and myself in knowing, how to paint Miniatures. Squidmar Miniatures is an awesome Channel and Emil is a good Video Teacher and Explainer. Keep up the good Videos!
Man, thank you guys for putting all of the knowledge and advice out on RUclips for free. I had to grab a notebook to start writing down all the gems of advise. The quality of the video and dense ratio of information is wonderful. Thanks again.
Personally when glazing the skin I would have added purple faintly in between the blue and fleshtone, it increases the saturation of the skin and makes it look more alive
Absolutely awesome, thanks for the tutorial. In my opinion, even if you don't paint I think it was an amazing example of colours and gradients. Keep it up, well worth the time . Thanks fir the video.
This was awesome. Excellent painting and explanation. Also using pretty much one commonly used brand color range made it more relaxing to watch. I hate it when painters use weird (or non-miniature) paints to do what they do. It makes copying a lot harder and time consuming as you need to figure out either where to get the weird stuff (expensive) or use a lot of time to figure out what is the GW/Vallejo/Army Painter equivalent to that particular color. Cheers!
I want to thank both of you for this video! I have learned so much just from watching this video and yes I will be watching it multiple times. Thank you for zooming in to show exactly what the brush is doing. I have been trying to figure out nonmetallic metal for ages. This one video explained and described and showed exactly what I should be doing. That will help eminently. I'm eager to put this into practice to the point of it just becoming a habit to just do it without thinking.
Awesome video, going back to watch again already. I think next time you do a tutorial video you should bring me out there so you can get footage of a noob learning the skills for the first time!
I would love to see a masterclass where you paint either a miniature that you made or have a collab with from Myminifactory just so we can easily buy a STL file so we can print a few to train on.
Now I just need my mini to arrive, and to buy some more paints, and to buy some better brushes, and to get better so I don't ruin the 3 minis I ordered 😂
I always thought I'm painting has improved but the extra level up seems very hard this video really put in to perspective how another few layers and thin paint can make a difference 👍
This and the NMM video with her armor reflecting firelight has lead me to a few of projects I am now regretting, as I am unsure how to start best after my lighting coat. My intention was at actual night, and if you look at photos of camp fires, through a camera, everything is either black or red, and I do not have the ability to sit at a fire and observe, and of course photos will just show me what Google does anyways. How do I paint firelight on cloth and skin without losing their natural colors? I might figure it out, after staying away from it a while, but I am interested in how you might handle it. 1) It is a British soldier from 1812. 50th Bat. 60th Foot, so he is dressed in a dark forest green uniform (Think of the Sharpe TV series with Sean Bean). So he is sitting before a camp fire. The issue is that his uniform is already dark green, then to have it dark (almost black in most of the figure), yer red from the fire while still being recognizable as a green uniform. There is also some black leather and metal buckles of course. Follow that up with his skin looking flesh like, but still reflecting the fire. Fire from the front. 2) A French Cavalier of the same period, firelight again. Same skin issue, but this time a bronze/copper chest armor rather than the sliver metal armor you use. The uniform this tine is white tunic with dark blue trim and beige pants. Fire from off to the side ca. 45 degrees (as if turned away from the fire) 3) This is sort of my test figure, a small Frankenstein's Monster from a 1990s Burger King Kid's Menu. This one I have stripped 3 times now, as I am not getting it right. In this case, it is moonlight (full) from high to the side. The Monster traditionally has a black jacket, dark brown pants, and those black platform shoes. This time having the black/dark brown cloth lighter, than the shadow, from a bright silver/blue light. Also the hair on the flat head vs the said hair on the dark side. Also, I have stripped it because I cannot even get the semi dead skin right. I tried grey/blue mottled skin, but it came out simply light blue. Maybe pale flesh with a hint of green, I cannot even describe that result, and just pale skin, but it came out looking pinkish and healthy. So I have just quit and moved on. Any ideas on these projects? This directional lighting is more difficult that I thought.
Also, just as a note: I have an accomplished painter, but left the hobby for almost 20 years. I am working with old poured resin figure I never built, like those I have mentioned, or stripped and re-painting figure, mostly all from Verlinden, in 120 mm scale. Figures of the 80's/90's from Verlinden and other suppliers in that scale were good, but lack the detail and sharp edges of today's 3D prints available. I used to use oils and got a very realistic skin tone, then Tamiya enamels for uniforms etc. Now I am trying this new style of almost comic book style with harsh color changes, NMM, directional lighting, and acrylics. And fantasy figures were not quite as easy to get, at least where I lived back then. So, most of my models are historical rather than fantasy right now, and references can be scarce, and little more than artist conceptions or historical artifacts. Right now I am working on a stripped, Verlinden, 200 mm Roman Auxiliary Signus. He is wearing fish scale armor rather than the Legion's plate armor. There is almost no references to what they are made of other than grimy bits that have been dug up. So I am not even sure if it is Brass or copper? Dull or polished? They wore animal skins, this one is a bear, did they have fake eyes or just holes? Another example is the Signus he carries, this is a long pole or spear, with silver metal disks, and is the honor and pride of the unit, so they are defended to the death and also used for signaling commands. I rebuilt mine, and used a chrome pen, but it looks to chrome, therefore I am going to repaint it using NMM, hence the repaint of the figure to match it. Large scale figures are quite different thing that painting 54mm or smaller, the areas of skin are much larger and closer to the eye, so I am having issues translating this new style for small minatures to super larger formats. Historical figures I think are harder as you (should) want the details to be accurate. Fantasy allows you to do what YOU want to paint. Cheers!
Looked very Craftworld mini-ish right before you went into the NMM, looks great. You should do a few vids (maybe a collab?) on that style by itself.... Great video as usual!
Again an amazing video, just wonder if chapters would be a great addition. I try to get nmm gold to work for me, espacially this part as a repeatable timestamp would be huge.
It's a good thing I'll soon be able to purchase a resin 3D printer because I feel I will need to print and ruin tens of minis before I'm confident enough to buy and paint one of those !
This. Is. Awesome! So many handy tips and tricks. Question: I've got a D&D character that has a glass staff and my DM 3D-printed it for me. But, I have no clue how to approach painting something that should be transparent, but on a surface that is actually an opaque material. Any clues? Or should I take a drill, remove the staff and replace it by actual transparent plastic? (Which will probably end up looking kinda meh)
I'm not all that good at painting but for an easier method I would try to paint it some brighter colour and use gloss varnish. Try to make it look reflective like glass can be.
Army painter paints are pretty thin, it took me so long to figure out what would get the different consistencies I noticed. It was definitely off putting. Not bad mind you, wouldn’t say their great but they work. They took a lot of practice
Awesome video, and can’t wait to try out some of these techniques on my next mini! Quick question; I guess it depends on the paint brand etc. but what, for you guys, does an ideal glaze consistency look like?
I dig it except for 1 thing. The monochromatic back looks really weird to me. Even in the amount of light implied by the way highlights were painted on his back, red fabric and yellow metal would look different. The fabric would be a dark purple, almost black. And the midtones of the gold would be greenish. I fully admit: gold armor at night with a specular moonlight probably would need a significant understanding of lighting and material properties, and some experimentation. I'm willing to give you a pass on that. But the red fabric would not have been difficult to do.
You can get the miniature and brushes used in the video here:
www.squidmar.com/latepledge
Down below you can find all colors used in the video:
Skin Colors:
Kantor Blue
Busman’s Glow
Kislev flesh
Light flesh
Ivory
Red parts:
Kantor blue
Khorne Red
Evil suns Scarlett
Wild rider red
Ivory
Gold:
Kantor blue
Deathclaw brown
Sun yellow
Ivory
Sword:
Kantor blue
Fenrisian grey
Ivory
Deathclaw brown
Black
Black parts in between armor:
Black
Stormvermin fur
Ivory
Gems:
Kantor blue
Moot green
Livery green
Ivory
Base:
Kantor blue
Caliban green
Skarsnik green
Ivory
Hey Emil, would you consider doing a video with a much less experienced painter where you both follow the same painting tutorial steps? It would be super helpful for some of us less experienced painters to see what to expect at the end for _our_ skill level when painting a mini, instead of getting a bit disheartened when it doesn't look like yours. I think the comparison would really help your viewers to improve faster. Thanks!
This is such a guy idea! I can’t believe nobody has thought of this before!!
Love this idea!
The quick sentence.."...put the highlight up to the edge" is SUCH key advice for painting muscle sections that I feel most people need! The shadow on the muscle above always has a shadow and I would leave a shadow at the top of the muscle belowas well aftaid if i went to the top it would kill the shadow of the muscle above and it always gave the island look. But go all the way up!
Great guide, guys! Internet is overburdened with 'fast painting', 'slap chop', 'contrast painting' and so on. Your detailed guide about display level model painting like a sip of the fresh air! Thank you!
Amazing video, would love more in depth tutorials like this!!
That foot reflection on the sword is such a nice touch 🤩
Just putting my thought out there, my favorite part of this paint job is honestly the foot reflection on the sword. My jaw actually dropped when I saw it! Great work, Lukas!
Same! so simple, yet arguably the most convincing illusion on that mini. Such a slick paint job
YES! Videos like this is why I started watching Squidmar. Thank you, Lukas and Emil!
Hands down probably the best masterclass video I've ever seen on YT. Emil you and Lucas are so damn good at what you do, please please please do more!
Agree
Every time I get excited about those Citadel paint dropper bottles - *finally!* - and then I realise that's home-made 😢
The majority of the paints I use now are Pro Acryl, partly for this reason. I actually like a LOT of the Citadel paints but, those tubs are crap.
@@bogglespc6012 I have 60 or so citadel paints I really enjoy using and it’s worth it to me it’s very cheap to transfer. I use AK, Vallejo etc as well so it’s not necessary but especially when referencing something new to paint the amount of time I’d spend searching and buying the equivalent is more time than just buying the citadel paint
I tried for days to find them before I realized 🙃
GW layer paints are crap, base paints are average.
Lucas is a frigging beast, awesome work as always! Thanks for sharing.
This type of content is why I subscribed back when I did, always glad too see it come back, if only for a short time!
Thats probably the most badass miniature i've EVER saw. Damn!
Hi Emil
Thank you, for the Master Classes! You have helped my Kids and myself in knowing, how to paint Miniatures.
Squidmar Miniatures is an awesome Channel and Emil is a good Video Teacher and Explainer. Keep up the good Videos!
Wonderful video from the instruction to the production quality. Very appreciated.
Man, thank you guys for putting all of the knowledge and advice out on RUclips for free.
I had to grab a notebook to start writing down all the gems of advise. The quality of the video and dense ratio of information is wonderful.
Thanks again.
Hi Emil and Lucas.. Its Mark from Australia.. this is THE BEST tutorial on you tube. you guys are great. and you make me laugh. love youre work .
We need more of these types of video's! also with your regular WARLORD TITAN vids ofc
Yes please. We(I) need more of this! Keep Masterclass going!
Absolutely wonderful guide. Covers so many areas, textures, and techniques all in one model. Truly a master-class. Thank you Emil and Lukas!
Personally when glazing the skin I would have added purple faintly in between the blue and fleshtone, it increases the saturation of the skin and makes it look more alive
Great tutorial. I really like the tip about doing the hourglass shaped highlights on the NMM
I'm so amped to get more instructional content from this channel!
Absolutely awesome, thanks for the tutorial.
In my opinion, even if you don't paint I think it was an amazing example of colours and gradients. Keep it up, well worth the time .
Thanks fir the video.
That looks so incredible, wow, way to go! & thanks for guiding us through the process 🙏🏼
This was awesome! I'd love to see more videos in this series.
Unusual paint scheme really works.
This was awesome. Excellent painting and explanation. Also using pretty much one commonly used brand color range made it more relaxing to watch. I hate it when painters use weird (or non-miniature) paints to do what they do. It makes copying a lot harder and time consuming as you need to figure out either where to get the weird stuff (expensive) or use a lot of time to figure out what is the GW/Vallejo/Army Painter equivalent to that particular color.
Cheers!
I love these types of videos, informative and full of detail
Fantastic job! I am going to go through this a few times while working on my Darth Maul mini. Thank you again for such a amazing content!
Absolutely incredible content!!!! Thank you, Emil & Lukas!
30 min video? Thx guys, really appreciate the long form content!!
I want to thank both of you for this video! I have learned so much just from watching this video and yes I will be watching it multiple times. Thank you for zooming in to show exactly what the brush is doing. I have been trying to figure out nonmetallic metal for ages. This one video explained and described and showed exactly what I should be doing. That will help eminently. I'm eager to put this into practice to the point of it just becoming a habit to just do it without thinking.
Awesome video man, great to see another dedicated tutorial in the main channel ❤️
The curtains rise, the actors take stage. We humbly present "A Game Most Changed".
I love to see you guys paint a 1-12 or 1-6 scale!!
bro could enter that in golden demon 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰 grate job squidmar
When it comes to skin textures this is fecking wizardry, i wish i could get my orruk skin tonnes too look as clean as this dude skin
So good! Beautiful paintjob too!
Really glad you guys are doing tutorials again, feels like it's been years
This is giving me so many ideas for Dante when he releases!!
Awesome video, going back to watch again already. I think next time you do a tutorial video you should bring me out there so you can get footage of a noob learning the skills for the first time!
Threw down a like to make this happen. Come on community!
@@ai6095 Legend
Love the blue as shadow!
I really love these video's really wants to make me try ❤
Amazing video! i would love more tutorials like this :)
"Controlled Chaos"...my painting is more chaos.. 😂
Fantastic video with many hint's... Thank You👍👍👍
You blokes make it look so easy
Finally a good tutorial
Thank you so much gonna try the techniques on my next mini
This video was great; would love to see a similar video for an ork model
Awesome tips. Thank you!
I would love to see a masterclass where you paint either a miniature that you made or have a collab with from Myminifactory just so we can easily buy a STL file so we can print a few to train on.
I'd just be ecstatic to finally receive my kickstart order of the whole range. Some day I guess.
Great, useful video. Thanks!
Really awesome video!!! Thanks!
This is the video I needed!
This is so good!!!!!!! Great video you guys are awesome 👍
Sick paint job!
Excellent, thanks for this video 👌
I don’t own an airbrush, for the first step will it come out the same if I use my brush
This is insane 😮
Exciting to see something that’s not a diorama
Now I just need my mini to arrive, and to buy some more paints, and to buy some better brushes, and to get better so I don't ruin the 3 minis I ordered 😂
your love your masterclass videos
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks!!!
Amazing tutorial!
the NMM gold is like 1 sec you look away and boom. perfect. so hard to see breakouts.
I would love to see you paint another ork warboss
Nice one Emil!
Te quedó de maravilla y el arte de Lu excelente ❤🎉🎉
So cool
I always thought I'm painting has improved but the extra level up seems very hard this video really put in to perspective how another few layers and thin paint can make a difference 👍
Amazing video, cheers dudes
This and the NMM video with her armor reflecting firelight has lead me to a few of projects I am now regretting, as I am unsure how to start best after my lighting coat. My intention was at actual night, and if you look at photos of camp fires, through a camera, everything is either black or red, and I do not have the ability to sit at a fire and observe, and of course photos will just show me what Google does anyways. How do I paint firelight on cloth and skin without losing their natural colors? I might figure it out, after staying away from it a while, but I am interested in how you might handle it.
1) It is a British soldier from 1812. 50th Bat. 60th Foot, so he is dressed in a dark forest green uniform (Think of the Sharpe TV series with Sean Bean). So he is sitting before a camp fire. The issue is that his uniform is already dark green, then to have it dark (almost black in most of the figure), yer red from the fire while still being recognizable as a green uniform. There is also some black leather and metal buckles of course. Follow that up with his skin looking flesh like, but still reflecting the fire. Fire from the front.
2) A French Cavalier of the same period, firelight again. Same skin issue, but this time a bronze/copper chest armor rather than the sliver metal armor you use. The uniform this tine is white tunic with dark blue trim and beige pants. Fire from off to the side ca. 45 degrees (as if turned away from the fire)
3) This is sort of my test figure, a small Frankenstein's Monster from a 1990s Burger King Kid's Menu. This one I have stripped 3 times now, as I am not getting it right. In this case, it is moonlight (full) from high to the side. The Monster traditionally has a black jacket, dark brown pants, and those black platform shoes. This time having the black/dark brown cloth lighter, than the shadow, from a bright silver/blue light. Also the hair on the flat head vs the said hair on the dark side. Also, I have stripped it because I cannot even get the semi dead skin right. I tried grey/blue mottled skin, but it came out simply light blue. Maybe pale flesh with a hint of green, I cannot even describe that result, and just pale skin, but it came out looking pinkish and healthy.
So I have just quit and moved on. Any ideas on these projects? This directional lighting is more difficult that I thought.
Also, just as a note: I have an accomplished painter, but left the hobby for almost 20 years. I am working with old poured resin figure I never built, like those I have mentioned, or stripped and re-painting figure, mostly all from Verlinden, in 120 mm scale. Figures of the 80's/90's from Verlinden and other suppliers in that scale were good, but lack the detail and sharp edges of today's 3D prints available. I used to use oils and got a very realistic skin tone, then Tamiya enamels for uniforms etc. Now I am trying this new style of almost comic book style with harsh color changes, NMM, directional lighting, and acrylics. And fantasy figures were not quite as easy to get, at least where I lived back then. So, most of my models are historical rather than fantasy right now, and references can be scarce, and little more than artist conceptions or historical artifacts. Right now I am working on a stripped, Verlinden, 200 mm Roman Auxiliary Signus. He is wearing fish scale armor rather than the Legion's plate armor. There is almost no references to what they are made of other than grimy bits that have been dug up. So I am not even sure if it is Brass or copper? Dull or polished? They wore animal skins, this one is a bear, did they have fake eyes or just holes? Another example is the Signus he carries, this is a long pole or spear, with silver metal disks, and is the honor and pride of the unit, so they are defended to the death and also used for signaling commands. I rebuilt mine, and used a chrome pen, but it looks to chrome, therefore I am going to repaint it using NMM, hence the repaint of the figure to match it. Large scale figures are quite different thing that painting 54mm or smaller, the areas of skin are much larger and closer to the eye, so I am having issues translating this new style for small minatures to super larger formats. Historical figures I think are harder as you (should) want the details to be accurate. Fantasy allows you to do what YOU want to paint. Cheers!
Great stuff lads
Great video!
Looked very Craftworld mini-ish right before you went into the NMM, looks great. You should do a few vids (maybe a collab?) on that style by itself....
Great video as usual!
Always hate it when sword crossguards break, anyways great video
Again an amazing video, just wonder if chapters would be a great addition. I try to get nmm gold to work for me, espacially this part as a repeatable timestamp would be huge.
Rafael brushes followed by Windsor Newton 7 or Vallejo kolinski.
cool;)
It's a good thing I'll soon be able to purchase a resin 3D printer because I feel I will need to print and ruin tens of minis before I'm confident enough to buy and paint one of those !
More please!
Another awesome video..thanks!
AMAZING
You don’t love us, you love our eye balls.
Very impressive work and informative.
Pure awesomeness, love the sword and heaps of tips, thanks and wheres the titan diorama?
yayayya i been waiting :) thank you
Omg thank you Emil and the other guy for sharing this knowledge
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
thanks
Amazing
This. Is. Awesome! So many handy tips and tricks.
Question: I've got a D&D character that has a glass staff and my DM 3D-printed it for me. But, I have no clue how to approach painting something that should be transparent, but on a surface that is actually an opaque material. Any clues? Or should I take a drill, remove the staff and replace it by actual transparent plastic? (Which will probably end up looking kinda meh)
I'm not all that good at painting but for an easier method I would try to paint it some brighter colour and use gloss varnish. Try to make it look reflective like glass can be.
Army painter paints are pretty thin, it took me so long to figure out what would get the different consistencies I noticed. It was definitely off putting. Not bad mind you, wouldn’t say their great but they work. They took a lot of practice
Great video! :)
Awesome video, and can’t wait to try out some of these techniques on my next mini!
Quick question; I guess it depends on the paint brand etc. but what, for you guys, does an ideal glaze consistency look like?
I dig it except for 1 thing.
The monochromatic back looks really weird to me. Even in the amount of light implied by the way highlights were painted on his back, red fabric and yellow metal would look different. The fabric would be a dark purple, almost black. And the midtones of the gold would be greenish.
I fully admit: gold armor at night with a specular moonlight probably would need a significant understanding of lighting and material properties, and some experimentation. I'm willing to give you a pass on that.
But the red fabric would not have been difficult to do.
Utrolig bra video! Dette er jo noe mange andre malere tar betalt for.