Common hardware store Solvents you SHOULD know!
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- This is just an entry level crash course on the basic solvents and how they will work in your oil based paint. A few of these solvents probably merit their own dedicated video. I didnt dig very deep into the alcohol category because I rarely use denatured alcohol in my work. It is a very interesting solvent and you may find addition reading enlightening. This video is intended only to be an entry level crash course for someone getting into oil based paints.
Thanks for watching!!
Here are links to the solvents (but its probably cheaper to buy local)
Lacquer: amzn.to/2UJpaFx
odorless paint thinner?? amzn.to/2Ur89AV
naphtha: amzn.to/2QTTjkg
xylene: amzn.to/2ULzCfE
Odorless Mineral Spirits: amzn.to/2UNxkNj
denatured alcohol: amzn.to/2QVxGQN
acetone: amzn.to/2wMEpFD
majic catalyst: amzn.to/33Uz0Zo
krylon hardener: amzn.to/3dF4WFo
japan drier: amzn.to/2Uu5AOR 
Хобби
I have never seen anything like this comparing painting solvents online. I have always wondered about the different applications of these solvents residing in my garage. Breaking them down into 3 basic categories with the distillation chart for the petroleum based one's clarified alot to me. Thank you for this video
Xylene and toluene can be used safely outdoors. Definitely not indoors. They are useful for dissolving low molecular weight acrylic resins like paraloid b72. Also, many spray can paint manufacturers dilute xylene and toluene in their products with acetone to make them VOC compliant and faster drying. Adding a little acetone to naphtha will help in painting in cooler weather.
Alcohol solvents are good for making and applying inks. I have a home brew reducer for acrylic and water based latex paints. It is basically 20% ethanol in distilled water with additives. Great for airbrush working water based paint
Man I wish I watched this like 2 hours ago, I used some odorless mineral spirits on my project. I live in a subdivision in an upper middle class neighborhood and I am sort of the black sheep. I weld, grind and paint. I am trying to get the VOC and smell down so I dont get complaints. I tried the OMS and it almost seems as if it separates the oil based paint. On horizontal surfaces it looks super wet, on vertical surfaces it behaves how I would expect. I was already thinking, man acetone is probably king I am not impressed with OMS. And you literally are saying you think the same way. I think was I might try is a to use a small amount of OMS to reduce the evaporation time and allow for flow out but use majority acetone reducer. Great content and thank you I am learning alot.
It might be good to note that there are two versions of Rustoleum, Original and Professional. The first is thinned with mineral spirits, the second with acetone (according to the labels).
In my experience the pro is far and away better paint. It isn't very commonly available in my area.
Great video packed with pertinent information straight to the point, and backed by experience with opinion.
This was a Very good information video and a must know for anyone that is considering painting. Thank You very much!👍😊
Thanks you gave me a better understanding of what to use to thin my oil base paint with this video was very beneficial to me thank you
Awesome, If it helps then the video was a success!
Thanks for this. Helped clean up a lot of confusion.
Hey, that was a very useful video! Good info. 👍
Thanks Tony, glad it was of use
Great video Vincent. Very informative. Love your content!
I appreciate that! Hope you are staying safe out there. I hear a bunch of hospitals are slow due to people staying home
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 - Very true ... that said the folks we are seeing are pretty ill. Be safe!
Fantastic !
I learned something useful today !
Always check the paint manufacturer thinning recommendations on label or research online...it takes the guess work out Some paint manufacturer also list thinning ratios..Rustoleum doesn't only recommend acetone...Mineral spirits is also recommended for thinning Rustoleum products...
Great presentation
I studied chemistry. So far, this is the only video I found as accordinging to my degree in paint chemical properties. That's what is to be the results after mixing solvents to the chemical composition.
Let's see how it comes out. Just trying to finish a door that the original paint color is minimal
NAPTHA actually has one of the slowest evaporation rates. Part of what makes it most handy for removing old adhesives. More time to soak in and penetrate before drying out. Also why commonly used as lighter fluid. Generally safe on painted surfaces.
Thank you. That's a lot on information.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video help me alot, reduce 50% of my beginner mistake. Thank you sir.
Glad to hear that
Great video!!!
Thanks for the visit
Great video thank you
Hi, when you pour out of your solvent it runs down the side of the can, if you turn your can so your hole is on the top and pour over the handle it let's air in and let's it pour better, kind of hard to explain but might be worth a try , thanks
This was a very informative video. I'd never seen MEK until very recently and I'm no spring chicken. Granite countertop guys were using it to clean up epoxy residue where they seemed the countertop. I didn't know that acetone was unregulated , probably because it's the only thing that works to remove nail polish. haha
HUH, What state? I was unable to find it local to me
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I live in Tennessee now, I moved here 4 yrs ago. I never seen MEK in Connecticut. Connecticut is kinda like California...lol, hence why I left.
That was great info; I took me 40 minutes to see the video, so I could take "some" notes. Thank you Very much.
Thats good, I hope it proves useful!
The video is 10 minutes long.
@@bitTorrenter The one 7 months ago was 40 minutes long.
bro stellar presentation. nothing fancy spoken in laymen terms that any knucklehead could understand. i give you a "like"
5:26 - Makes a very interesting point about the removal of aromatics from classic mineral spirits. One is Type 1, the other is Type 3.
Just wondering if spraying acetone thinned rustoleum over rustoleum primer will cause it to wrinkle or blister? Would it be safer to thin it with mineral spirits?
great information... i think you covered it all... every once in a while i'll use gas to thin paint for my outdoor iron work
I imagine that the fast burning gas and slower burning paint would act like a napalm. I always wondered what it'd look like turned fluid up, fan down and lit it up?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I have never mixed the two and tried lighting it, i use it to thin thick paint.. however it's like all the other thinners, they are all flammable. Why spend $7 for 12oz of thinner when you can spend $1.89 for a gallon that does the same thing on outdoor iron work and outdoor figurines that no one will be around.
@@wemcal $1.89 wow! those were the good ole days eh? lets go Brandon! lol
@@Dildo_Baggins. yes those were the good ol days.... gas is $4.39 a gallon today
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I use rust oleum a lot on different projects. Is there any advantage ? to using Harder (catalyst) in the rusty metal primer ? Thanks again
Thank You!
I plan on trying Tremclad or Rust-oleum and acetone mix to paint my car when it warms up. My question is can I mix up a batch and store it mixed? I don’t plan on using a hardener. Thanks for the info.
Yes you are missing out with xylene. It is strong as well as slower evaporating, but not too slow, no oily residue.
I will second that motion. On large industrial paint projects I need the slower drying for a "wet edge". I'm still measuring dry time in minutes....just not seconds. Lol
A lot of useful information there! I've saved that video in my "watch later" section. I've also shared with a friend that has experienced a dramatic result with bubbling paint!!! Lol! Thanks Vincent!
That friend was me Sir !!! LOL Thank you Joe for the tips !!! CHeers !!!
Thanks for dropping in, I hope you figure out the bubbling. Stay healthy out there fella's, I hear this virus like cold weather ❄
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Not inside my garage since two days ago with was almost 85 F and 38 % of humidity !!! Cheers !!!
Thanks!
A point I would like to make, when painting metal "steal" rusty metal... Be sure to prime first with "rust metal prime"... If not the paint will have a hard time sticking... Just my observation of painting implements over the years... with Rust-Oleum paints...
I need to thin Barge contact cement. My choices for thinner are xylene, naptha, MEK substitute, and mineral spirits. Which would work best?
thank you very much for this excellent explanation of solvents. I think you used mineral spirits in a rustoleum video . Am I wrong? also is a hardener not used with a primer?
So which one would be best for trying to replace electrolytes in your body?
you should really check out sher kem metal finish enamel
Being a boilermaker having worked in oil refineries your knowledge is impressive.
Thanks Jay, glad you found the video.
Great video. I have just treated an english white oak beam with boiled linseed oil and after 3 days its dried way to dark. I obviously didn't sand it enough prior and would like to use acetone to remove the oil before i go back to the sander and start again. Would acetone do the trick and break the linseed oil down so i can wipe it off?
I dont really do a lot of woodworking projects so I cant give you an educated answer. Sorry, best of luck
Xylene will eat plastics as well so if your thinning something to use in a paint marker or any other plastic container definitely check to make sure your using plastic that's resistant to xylene
Hey, great info and appreciate it coming from someone who went through a program and presents in a scientific way.
I suggest you look more into Xylene (since you seemed to dismiss it in the video) as you may come to like it. I've perused many forums regarding thinning Rustoleum and although acetone is a great reducer, many experienced posters mentioned xylene would be very well suited especially with it's albeit slower, but still mid-high flash time. As well, I've found it thins Plastic Wood better than acetone and also thinned my Plasti-Dip perfectly.
Rust-Oleum decades ago used to recommend thinning with Mineral Spirits. IMO they changed the recommendation to Acetone because of VOCs....When spraying Rust-Oleum I may or may not add Japan Drier appropriate to the amount of paint. Then either way I thin to 2:1 or 1:1 with Mineral Spirits. I find 2:1 goes through the gun okay, but makes more orange peel. If I want it really smooth finish I mix to about 1:1. At 1:1 you may have to make more coats, cuz when thinned that much it likes to run on vertical surfaces. Here Japan Drier is also nice so you don't have to wait as long between coats.
is there a difference between Carson and mineral spirits??
Good video. I wanted to use Rust-oleum FLAT BLACK on my truck (whenever I get it done). You say to use acetone. If acetone is a fast dryer, won't that make the paint dry fast? And if it dries fast I would think that my paint job would turn out with streeks. I sure don't want that. Can you shed some light on my issue ❓Thanks for sharing.👍👍
I use just "Paint Thinner" and have no problem!!! I wouldn't use Acetone as a thinner!!! But give it a try on a scrap piece of metal!!!
Acetone is fast, with practice you will be able to read exactly what the paint is doing once it leaves the gun; like drying in the air, uneven pattern, not atomizing, etc. Once you can read the 'wet spot' (where its hitting the substrate) then you can eliminate streaking.
Like Pat said, thinner is a great option too, it will dry or 'flash' much slower than acetone. This can be an advantage, it will allow paint to flow out, it stays open longer allowing for a quick touch up that will properly melt in and in warmer temps its the better choice. Def do some experimenting. Thanks Pat and Andy
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Thanks for all the tips. I can do some experimenting, but that would only be for application. I am also concerned about the long term. Thanks again.👍👍
I think you made a misstatement when you said that toluene and xylene are removed from naptha to make odorless mineral spirits. I believe they are removed from paint thinner (regular mineral spirits) to make odorless mineral spirits. If what you said was true, regular mineral spirits derives from naptha which I don't think is true. And a bit later in the video, you mention that odorless mineral spirits is regular mineral spirits with the toluene and xylene removed which makes more sense.
"Paint Thinner" is also 8-9$ a gallon compared to 16-19 a gallon for Naptha or Acetone or 13$ a gallon for "odorless" mineral spirits.
So for a good finish and using Rustoleum Acetone is better what about the Japan drier (what would be the amount used or the cat. bottle how much of each ) Thanks kool video
Acetone is a good reducer. Japan drier would be considered an activator, it controls the speed at which the paint dries. Acetone combined with japan drier will set the rustoleum off fast. If you wanted something a little slower then try mineral spirits and regular catalyst. I add 1 to 2 caps of japan drier to every mixed quart
When you add the 1or 2 caps what is the shelf span on that paint. & the JD what would be the adding 1or 2 caps as well along with acetone 50/50 again sorry 4 the many questions again thanks RF. TX.
4paint:3acetone:1catalyst:1capsJD
shelf life is short, I only mix what I can spray in about 20 to 30 mins.
Udahman solvent solver :)
What is the solvent for varnish?
I work for a startup water bottling company. They've been using Klean Strip Mineral Spirits to lubricate the plastic blow mold at my work. They squirt it onto the machine while it's running when there are plastic preform water bottles moving through it. They then go on to be filled with water and packaged. I feel like this is very toxic and a huge misuse of the product. Am I incorrect?
Great video, thanks for the info. I’m glad you mentioned toxicity. Most of those are really nasty, I wouldn’t even allow them in my garage. You might have a look at citrus solvent, far safer.
You won't "allow" them in your garage? Do you think they will grow legs and attack you? What are you 16?
I am glad to see I am not the only one that has trouble pouring those metal gallon jugs... they make a freaking mess...
Thanks for watching!
From you experience with Rustoleum oil base enamel, though they recommend acetone only on the label, you say you’ve had success using catalyst, mineral spirits, and Japan deter?
Yes, it will work with mineral spirits. It wont flash as fast as acetone
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Got it, thank you. Have you had good results with any oil-based enamel hardener rather than Japan Drier?
Yes, If you go here: ruclips.net/video/6eoFYTp98XE/видео.html there are a bunch linked in the description
Like your video please help me out Im spraying a large machine with gallon of rustoleum yellow glossy.
I want to know few things please.
Cutting a gallon of paint and harder including a catalyst and how can I get a deep shine please get back to me asap love your teaching and patients with viewers. Thanks
What is the catalyst you use ?
usually the majic or the krylon. They're linked in the description
In what State are you …?
50 years a painter here. Personally, I would never use acetone as a paint thinner. I recently used a product that was reformulated with it to comply with the latest VOC standards ; it was a terrible product & created many problems for me. Personally, I prefer naphtha over most thinners. Why didn't you mention penetrol or boiled linseed oil ? Penetrol is a great product & can be used as a coating on raw metal or wood, or as a paint additive in oil base paints....
I dont have any experience with penetrol. I wouldve mentioned boiled linseed, and I do use it but only on wood related projects. I dont know that it would be capable of thinning paint to a sprayable consistency for any air fed guns. Have you tried?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Penetrol aids brushing and flow out with oil paints. I've not heard of it being used with spraying. Boiled linseed oil by itself is sort of slow to completely dry--tung oil is faster-. Some people mix some varnish with it to help drying and hardness; Japan drier would probably do it too. Acetone is handy for drying things--containers, water-containing brushes, etc. Enough to coat the surface or bristles combines with whatever water is there, and then it all evaporates quickly--can speed it up with compressed air or hair drier.
Where do you guys get your penetrol?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915/ penetrol is available at most paint stores or on line...
Cool, Ill look next time Im there. I appreciate it!
Just like FYI (not “fwhy”), M-E-K each letter is pronounced not “meck”. Otherwise good info.
You forgot MAK?
@ 7:56 M.E.K. -methyl ethyl keytone.
UnitedStatesofBuild MAK. Methyl Amyl Ketone.
Is it available to the general public? I have 0 experience with it.
UnitedStatesofBuild yes. I know for sure it’s available at Sherwin Williams. (At least in Texas).
Ex said uh
That's pretty funny man
Its etcetera, pronounced et set err a
Solvent bad samel remove used chemical formula Sher
Sorry to be "that guy" but it's "ketones" not "keytones".
Use to get paint thinner for .99 gallon before the epa bullshit