Thank you for what you are doing. So glad I stumbled on your channel. Not only do you show results of each build, but you explain each step along the way perfectly. You explain the why of each step as well as tips and tricks to avoid major extra work (string in combustion chamber). Every other mod video I have ever seen skips steps, misses footage or can’t explain why they are making the changes they are sharing. You can clearly see the time you put into these videos and your familiarity and skill with what you are doing. Thank you for taking the time to help the rest of us out.
That's unbelievable boy have these engines come a long way since the old Tecumseh's of the 60's and 70's. Excellent thorough explanations we who are not very mechanically inclined certainly do appreciate it. Thank you.
Thanks for all of your videos testing so many different engine and component configurations. They are fascinating and they have definitely saved me a lot of time and money and have been very influential in my mini bike modification decisions. I'm a newbie with mini bikes, I just bought my first bike 3 days after Christmas from walmart. Its a Realtree/Coleman RT200, it was on clearance for $597 and was a 110% impulse buy. The stock engine was a 196cc manufactured by Tao Motor Company according to the emissions sticker. I was modifying the engine and when I took the side cover off to remove the governor I was shocked when I saw that it had a plastic cam gear. I proceeded with removing the governor and was planning on replacing the cam and a laundry list of other things but ultimately decided not to put any additional time or money in that engine after noticing some pretty significant flaws in the block and head casting. Some areas were paper thin and had what appears to be holes that were filled with those aluminum brazing rods and the flywheel has what look like hairline cracks in it. I ended up buying a Ducar 212 with a PVL flywheel that is rated at 17,000 RPM"s for 1 hour although it does come with an adjustable governor that is factory set at 5500 RPM's. The block and head are thicker and seem to be much more reinforced that any Predator or other 212 engine that I've ever seen. I bought the engine $20 from Dynocams for $202.50 which I feel like was a good buy especially when factoring in the cost that I would have spent just upgrading the cam and flywheel on my original engine. I have noticed that you typically buy a lot of Predators and some Tillotsons. Have you ever had a Ducar 212? I have heard the 224 is made by Ducar but I don't know. I would really love to see what you can do with the Ducar 212 that Dynocams sells, and how it would stack up to the Tillotson 212's that you have built. Next time you are in the market for a new engine you should definitely consider it. Can you provide a link to the amazon/ebay knockoff Mikuni carb that you use? There are quite a few different "VM22" carbs on there and I don't want to order a bad one. I apologize for the long winded comment. Keep making more videos of your builds. I find them more informative than any of the other Mini Bike channels. Thanks again and here is a link to the Ducar 212 that I just bought. You can also purchase a lot of different cams for the 212 directly from Dynocams. I'm not sure how their prices compare to other cam makers but I do know you can call them and talk to their engine builder who will give a lot of advice and suggestions based on what you tell him you're trying to do. All of that stuff is still over my head but hopefully I will get grasp on it soon. www.dynocams.com/item/212-1000/ducar212/
Thanks for watching the videos. I'm glad they help you out. I'll run a Ducar sooner or later. Haven't gotten around to it yet. The Predator 224 block does look pretty much identical to a Ducar/Tillotson block. Definitely an upgrade from the previous generation Predator. Especially when you consider the 58MM stroke crank that comes in the 224. Definitely worth the extra $40 over the 212 Predator. I use the VM22 carbs because they are inexpensive and easy to tune. There are carbs that will get you more power, like an authentic VM22, but for the price, the imitation versions are a good buy in my opinion. Here is a link for the carb www.ebay.com/itm/194358544642?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Usually the only way a stock rod can survive 6k+ rpms is to trim a 1/4" off the dipper so it is the same length as a billet rod dipper and wont hit the bottom of the case when the crankshaft flexes
@@Wilson_Racing After a quick check on a speed calc that's a bet I would take. Use 19 inch tire, 10/50 sprockets, and 5200 RPM in a speed calc. You'll get 58 MPH.
@@Deucealive75 speed cant effect the reliability of parts and yes a stock rod can go over 6000 rpms untrimmed in the 212 at least in the 224 it my be a issue but in a 212 iv accidentally hit 7250 rpms with the stock rod and it held up but being a cast rod some will be stronger then others just because 1 can do it doesnt mean all of them can i now run all billet because i have added peace of mind that my peace of metal is at least a solid piece and has much better grain structure
Did the governor removal exactly like this guy 224cc and took off oil sensors as well and I bought a carburetor with it as well and put everything back together and it won’t start nothing but it sparks with the spark plug but nothing anything I did or tips please help me
I've had one done for a week now lol my local harbor freight got them fast sucks paying top dollar for all the performance parts right now though give it a few months and they'll drop drastically
Pulled the governor out of my 212, pull start is hard to pull now, acts like it has no spark, nothing happens besides crankshaft spinning. Can’t figure it out, got any idea? Thanks
So I’m pretty sure push rods fell, cause when I pulled the cam out, the tapids came out, so I put them back in, but they wouldn’t go, so I turned the crank over and finally they went in after taking them out and putting them back in. But it still doesn’t explain the no spark thing. Both of my motors don’t have spark
Hey black put the stock carb back on and try running it again on my 212 when i put the mod2 in my engine it gave me alot of torque with the stock carb and when i added the vm22 it killed all of its low end power and i think the same is happening to you since your not turning up very high its not really unlocking the cams full potential try a jeted stock carb with the stamped 1.3 and it will blow your mind the amount of low end power it will make and since its a stroker engine it will be even scarier then the 212 was but after i put the 26lb springs in and was turning past 7k is when the vm was needed to help support the airflow needed with the extra lift and duration past 7000 rpms plus the stamped 1.3 ratio rockers drop right in for 20 bucks it the cheapest and quickest way to make the power omb sells them for the 212 non hemi and clone engines so ik they will work in the 224 as well.... but with the mod 2 and 1.3 ratio rockers you will have 292 lift on intake and 300 on exhaust and for duration is 245 it definitely makes for a spicy little set up i would have no doubt that with the stamped rockers and stock carb it do 65 easily and 0-30 even quicker then with the vm
Ik it sounds goofy to go back to the stock carb but with that kinda of duration and no compression the engine is actually down on power if i was you check and see if you have the clearance to run the 1.3s and mod2 with a .010 head gasket it will give you the compression to help get the most out of the mod2 in the 212 non hemi i got the mod 2 and 1.3s with the .010 head gasket running 8k never have had any clearancing issues
In this video I was basically swapping parts to get ready for the next video. I didn't really want it to turn it too hard in this video because of the stock internals. That is why I left the gearing where it is. Next video is where it gets fun for me. I need the VM22 or a flat slide to support the Ratio roller rockers with the Mod 2, bigger rear gear, billet rod, thin gasket, more compression etc.
@@Black66 hey the 1.3s will make the engine turn up faster and harder and if you give it the compression it will unlock the cam even more as the mod2 needs around 10.5:1 to optimize the compression for the cam and on the 224 with a .010 i am finding it to be around 10:1 that would be a beast of a engine that would have no problem turning the gearing you have on it now i would like to see your reaction to that power on that gearing you have now as it be a great way to see how each part effects the performance and speed as well im am just so glad to see the you using the mod2 as it is a great cam for either stockish set ups or when you put the 1.3s in it really feels like a race engine that idles smoothly and has a very awesome power band still pulling at 8000 rpms
So on the predator 212 the only problem with removing the governor is the stock flywheel has a tendency to shoot the magnets off in the 224 the 224 has the flywheel been upgraded
You should see how hard I hit this one with the steel hammer!!! Check it out! Its around three minutes into the video. ruclips.net/video/RugZT0VBSgM/видео.html
So the stock cam size is already a .223 lift. Not sure about the duration through. The mod 2 is .224 on intake and .231 on exhaust. What a slight difference between the two cams.
HI Black 66........is the Cam on the 224 the exact same fit as the Clone 196? i heard somewhere its different because the stroke difference will hit the standard cam?...thanks in advance...........also is the end diameter .550?
Not sure. I got this one off a Tillotson engine that I put a billet flywheel on. You could just throw a billet flywheel on it. This shop has them www.ebay.com/str/diy4cycleperformanceparts
It's jetted for a warmed-over 212. It needs more gear out back to get the cam into the optimal RPM range. The engine doesn't have the torque to pull the 5 to 1 ratio with those big tires. In the next video its getting all the good stuff.
BLACK66🏍💯 just started my 224 I plan on removing governor/sensor, adding header pipe, nibbi carb and mod cam then leaving everything else stock do u think I should be safe?
I've seen a lot of these swaps for sale. Quick search lead me to your videos. Looks like they're very easy to work on. Must be pretty cheap too cause there are tons of people doing it.
The cam needs to be clearanced to be used in the 224 as seen in the 224 videos. Check out the 224 playlist. The 224 cam has.550 mains as seen in this video... ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
I sell some from time to time but I will probably give some away on the channel. If you look at the 224 playlist and others I kind of build the bikes step by step on some builds. Is there a specific bike you're looking at? ruclips.net/video/SaxCCoqJ0RU/видео.html
i’ve been looking throughout your channel for the video of removing the 224 external governer but can’t find it can you link it if you made a video out of it please and thanks? Love the videos 🤙🏾
Thanks! Here is the video removing the internal governor ruclips.net/video/1AgrkPH8980/видео.html Here is the external governor removal ruclips.net/video/lZGNDW9UPfg/видео.html
im working on rebuilding a vintage bike I found in a backyard.. and Im struggling to decide what brake to use.. it has a brake band but obviously needs to be replaced and im not sure if I should get a new band or upgrade the brake since I plan on slowly progressing the engine.. its similar to your doodlebug or the original mini bike you featured on your channel. its an old MTD mini bike that has 5 inch wheels.. I love your channel besides what I've mentioned above.. very clean and well thought out builds!
Thanks! If you are going to end up going fast I would incorporate some kind of hydraulic disk like on the Doodlebug. If you weren't going to upgrade the engine and were going for an old school vintage build I would keep the old brake . I kept all the old brake stuff on the Azusa bike just to keep it somewhat original. That way if I want to totally bring it back to original I can.
@@Black66 the hydraulic disk was the one i was looking to go with but im not so sure if the doodlebug would work... I've toyed with keeping it vintage as well but without the engine being original I don't have much appeal. Although I still have the original engine, just needs a few things.
@@PopeyesCreeper can't post pictures on here but I put a hydraulic disc on a Murray Track 2 without modifying the bike other than drilling 2 holes to mount the caliper bracket I made; kept the stock band brake parts. I used a heavy 3/8-inch thick rotor from BMI parts and a complete eBay disc brake assembly that fits a 250cc dual-sport; entire cost about $55.
@@frederickwoods5943 Hell yeah nice, Yeah i was looking around a lot last night and noticed I might not even have to drill any holes in the bike.. the bike is an old 1971 MTD mini Bike, the rear mounts have a bunch of holes drilled out almost looks like it aligns with the doodlebugs.. won't be sure for sure yet. Im still very much considering leaving it stock now and buying a new frame since its so old and unique
Was the cam you installed a MOD 2 Hemi or Non Hemi? I was told by tech at a few reputable shops that the Mod2 Non Hemi Cam would not fit and cause serious damage.
You can only install a cam with 0.550 mains in a 224. Check out this video on cams. This is why a non-Hemi cam wont fit. ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
SO, unless I am misunderstanding something, or not understanding the numbers and I correct in saying there was virtually NO difference in performance after spending all that money & time??????
Only because the gearing doesn't let the cam get into its proper power band. With a simple gear change, this bike will move out big time! I didn't want to do that gear change in this video because of the stock rod. I wanted it to live on for the next video where I add the gear change and billet parts etc.
What size nut and bolt did you use for the oil sensor hole that you didnt have to tap it. And no the video doesnt show what size nut and bolt you used i rewatched 4 times.
@@Black66 how long did it run with the stock rod? It looks like you put a billet one in right away? I have the same cam pre clearances for the 224... I'm trying to decide if I put it in. Don't want to bother with the rod if I don't have to 😈.
How do you know what parts to use on the 224? I have a 212 non hemi Billit flywheel, And I was wondering if I could use that on the predator 224? Thanks!
Hey black can you incorporate in a rpm gauge so we can see how much RPMs your engines and builds turn out I think that will be a great addition to your test Videos
@@Black66 and you thought it was just Fred Woods telling you to spend a lowsy 20-spot on a tach 😃 The TUSK tach/hour meter is $18.49 on eBay (vendor here in Virginia) and it ships for free. Ok, enuf raggin' . .
@@frederickwoods5943LOL. You guys are funny! I have had a tach/maintenance meter sitting on the shelf for the last couple years. Just never hooked it up. I always use the gear ratio calculator to figure out my RPM. Put in tire height and gear ratio once I know my top speed and I get pretty close. But I hear Ya, it would be cool to see the RPM live .
@@Black66 join my FB group ( Modified Mini Bikes ) I have a tachometer mount for you . Come share all your wisdom 😄 . When something is to long to explain , I just refer them to you videos 👍
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Fun watching the progression, Sir! Well done.
Hey Buddy, I saw a video where you made a valve compressor tool from another tool BUT I CAN'T FIND IT IN YOUR VIDEOS
HELP ‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓
Thank you for what you are doing. So glad I stumbled on your channel. Not only do you show results of each build, but you explain each step along the way perfectly. You explain the why of each step as well as tips and tricks to avoid major extra work (string in combustion chamber). Every other mod video I have ever seen skips steps, misses footage or can’t explain why they are making the changes they are sharing.
You can clearly see the time you put into these videos and your familiarity and skill with what you are doing. Thank you for taking the time to help the rest of us out.
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. I'm happy the videos help . Its fun making them and learning along the way.
That's unbelievable boy have these engines come a long way since the old Tecumseh's of the 60's and 70's. Excellent thorough explanations we who are not very mechanically inclined certainly do appreciate it. Thank you.
Thank you !
Thanks for all of your videos testing so many different engine and component configurations. They are fascinating and they have definitely saved me a lot of time and money and have been very influential in my mini bike modification decisions. I'm a newbie with mini bikes, I just bought my first bike 3 days after Christmas from walmart. Its a Realtree/Coleman RT200, it was on clearance for $597 and was a 110% impulse buy. The stock engine was a 196cc manufactured by Tao Motor Company according to the emissions sticker. I was modifying the engine and when I took the side cover off to remove the governor I was shocked when I saw that it had a plastic cam gear. I proceeded with removing the governor and was planning on replacing the cam and a laundry list of other things but ultimately decided not to put any additional time or money in that engine after noticing some pretty significant flaws in the block and head casting. Some areas were paper thin and had what appears to be holes that were filled with those aluminum brazing rods and the flywheel has what look like hairline cracks in it. I ended up buying a Ducar 212 with a PVL flywheel that is rated at 17,000 RPM"s for 1 hour although it does come with an adjustable governor that is factory set at 5500 RPM's. The block and head are thicker and seem to be much more reinforced that any Predator or other 212 engine that I've ever seen. I bought the engine $20 from Dynocams for $202.50 which I feel like was a good buy especially when factoring in the cost that I would have spent just upgrading the cam and flywheel on my original engine. I have noticed that you typically buy a lot of Predators and some Tillotsons. Have you ever had a Ducar 212? I have heard the 224 is made by Ducar but I don't know. I would really love to see what you can do with the Ducar 212 that Dynocams sells, and how it would stack up to the Tillotson 212's that you have built. Next time you are in the market for a new engine you should definitely consider it. Can you provide a link to the amazon/ebay knockoff Mikuni carb that you use? There are quite a few different "VM22" carbs on there and I don't want to order a bad one. I apologize for the long winded comment. Keep making more videos of your builds. I find them more informative than any of the other Mini Bike channels. Thanks again and here is a link to the Ducar 212 that I just bought. You can also purchase a lot of different cams for the 212 directly from Dynocams. I'm not sure how their prices compare to other cam makers but I do know you can call them and talk to their engine builder who will give a lot of advice and suggestions based on what you tell him you're trying to do. All of that stuff is still over my head but hopefully I will get grasp on it soon. www.dynocams.com/item/212-1000/ducar212/
Thanks for watching the videos. I'm glad they help you out. I'll run a Ducar sooner or later. Haven't gotten around to it yet. The Predator 224 block does look pretty much identical to a Ducar/Tillotson block. Definitely an upgrade from the previous generation Predator. Especially when you consider the 58MM stroke crank that comes in the 224. Definitely worth the extra $40 over the 212 Predator.
I use the VM22 carbs because they are inexpensive and easy to tune. There are carbs that will get you more power, like an authentic VM22, but for the price, the imitation versions are a good buy in my opinion.
Here is a link for the carb www.ebay.com/itm/194358544642?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I just got my 224 today. Thanks for the torture test! I've been a little worried about revving it too hard.
I love watching you build mini bikes. That fast top end speed is awesome
thanks for teaching me how to work on my minibike!
No problem! Thank you for watching the videos.
12:09 So you are self tapping the bolt where the shaving will fall INTO the case! Believe I would of done that B4 putting the side cover on
Man you got on this build fast!!!👍🏾 good stuff my friend
That’s ridiculous (top speed) on a Coleman. I love it!
Check out the CT2020U-EX playlist for even faster Coleman bikes ruclips.net/video/jHf9yJmaZLA/видео.html
You have some great videos, love the detail and simplicity to understand and do this at home on my own. Thank you
Very fun build! I'm happy you didn't have to walk home😄
Ya me too...lol
Nice video man! That bike is fast💨
Once again another Great video Black66 your videos are awesome and very informative.
Thank you!
Usually the only way a stock rod can survive 6k+ rpms is to trim a 1/4" off the dipper so it is the same length as a billet rod dipper and wont hit the bottom of the case when the crankshaft flexes
He said next is the billet parts. The stock rod will never see 6K RPM.
@@Deucealive75 I can bet you it did in this video
@@Wilson_Racing After a quick check on a speed calc that's a bet I would take. Use 19 inch tire, 10/50 sprockets, and 5200 RPM in a speed calc. You'll get 58 MPH.
@@Deucealive75 those are never accurate. I tried using them years ago but they never calculate the correct speed
@@Deucealive75 speed cant effect the reliability of parts and yes a stock rod can go over 6000 rpms untrimmed in the 212 at least in the 224 it my be a issue but in a 212 iv accidentally hit 7250 rpms with the stock rod and it held up but being a cast rod some will be stronger then others just because 1 can do it doesnt mean all of them can i now run all billet because i have added peace of mind that my peace of metal is at least a solid piece and has much better grain structure
I love your video keep the good work up
Did the governor removal exactly like this guy 224cc and took off oil sensors as well and I bought a carburetor with it as well and put everything back together and it won’t start nothing but it sparks with the spark plug but nothing anything I did or tips please help me
I'm running almost the same set up but with a cast aluminum flywheel, should I be worried about the rod exploding
I've had one done for a week now lol my local harbor freight got them fast sucks paying top dollar for all the performance parts right now though give it a few months and they'll drop drastically
@8:20 cast-iron flywheels sorry bro I'm billet aluminum all the way I have a rule against running anyting stock it's all garbage
The channel is about testing all parts good or bad.
@@spikemandan I have a video coming out with a flywheel that came apart. Fun video! Thanks for watching!
@@spikemandan That would make a sweet video ! , I ve been trying for wa coupole of years now, If I end up dead i wont know it any way! LOL
If you watch the channel for any length of time you will see the flywheel has been upgraded.
That's funny I was just thinking the other day I should stick my PVL flywheel on my Tilly 212E and put the 212E flywheel on the 224.
Pretty much a perfect build. Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Pulled the governor out of my 212, pull start is hard to pull now, acts like it has no spark, nothing happens besides crankshaft spinning. Can’t figure it out, got any idea? Thanks
Everything is hooked up, timing is correct, wiring, fuel, carb, oil is all good
When you pulled the governor out did you accidently change the cam timing?
@@Black66 cam dot is lined up to crankshaft if that’s what you mean?
@@JadenCrocker When you pull the plug out will it turn over easy then? While the plug is out made sure it's getting spark.
So I’m pretty sure push rods fell, cause when I pulled the cam out, the tapids came out, so I put them back in, but they wouldn’t go, so I turned the crank over and finally they went in after taking them out and putting them back in. But it still doesn’t explain the no spark thing. Both of my motors don’t have spark
Hey black put the stock carb back on and try running it again on my 212 when i put the mod2 in my engine it gave me alot of torque with the stock carb and when i added the vm22 it killed all of its low end power and i think the same is happening to you since your not turning up very high its not really unlocking the cams full potential try a jeted stock carb with the stamped 1.3 and it will blow your mind the amount of low end power it will make and since its a stroker engine it will be even scarier then the 212 was but after i put the 26lb springs in and was turning past 7k is when the vm was needed to help support the airflow needed with the extra lift and duration past 7000 rpms plus the stamped 1.3 ratio rockers drop right in for 20 bucks it the cheapest and quickest way to make the power omb sells them for the 212 non hemi and clone engines so ik they will work in the 224 as well.... but with the mod 2 and 1.3 ratio rockers you will have 292 lift on intake and 300 on exhaust and for duration is 245 it definitely makes for a spicy little set up i would have no doubt that with the stamped rockers and stock carb it do 65 easily and 0-30 even quicker then with the vm
Ik it sounds goofy to go back to the stock carb but with that kinda of duration and no compression the engine is actually down on power if i was you check and see if you have the clearance to run the 1.3s and mod2 with a .010 head gasket it will give you the compression to help get the most out of the mod2 in the 212 non hemi i got the mod 2 and 1.3s with the .010 head gasket running 8k never have had any clearancing issues
In this video I was basically swapping parts to get ready for the next video. I didn't really want it to turn it too hard in this video because of the stock internals. That is why I left the gearing where it is.
Next video is where it gets fun for me. I need the VM22 or a flat slide to support the Ratio roller rockers with the Mod 2, bigger rear gear, billet rod, thin gasket, more compression etc.
@@Black66 hey the 1.3s will make the engine turn up faster and harder and if you give it the compression it will unlock the cam even more as the mod2 needs around 10.5:1 to optimize the compression for the cam and on the 224 with a .010 i am finding it to be around 10:1 that would be a beast of a engine that would have no problem turning the gearing you have on it now i would like to see your reaction to that power on that gearing you have now as it be a great way to see how each part effects the performance and speed as well im am just so glad to see the you using the mod2 as it is a great cam for either stockish set ups or when you put the 1.3s in it really feels like a race engine that idles smoothly and has a very awesome power band still pulling at 8000 rpms
So on the predator 212 the only problem with removing the governor is the stock flywheel has a tendency to shoot the magnets off in the 224 the 224 has the flywheel been upgraded
I added a Tillotson 212e flywheel to this one. Inexpensive alternative
Please Please Please get a brass hammer for tapping in finished steel parts. Brass won’t ding up the machined surface.
You should see how hard I hit this one with the steel hammer!!! Check it out! Its around three minutes into the video. ruclips.net/video/RugZT0VBSgM/видео.html
So the stock cam size is already a .223 lift. Not sure about the duration through. The mod 2 is .224 on intake and .231 on exhaust. What a slight difference between the two cams.
The Mod 2 has about the same lift but much more duration. It holds the valves open longer.
@@Black66 yeah I believe the mod has .245 duration if I’m correct. I have a mod 2 in an engine of mine. I have to many 🤦🏽♂️😂
HI Black 66........is the Cam on the 224 the exact same fit as the Clone 196? i heard somewhere its different because the stroke difference will hit the standard cam?...thanks in advance...........also is the end diameter .550?
Check out the cam fitment video and also the 224 playlist for clearancing the cam. ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
Where do i can purchase the tiloson flywheel i am from Canada
Not sure. I got this one off a Tillotson engine that I put a billet flywheel on. You could just throw a billet flywheel on it. This shop has them www.ebay.com/str/diy4cycleperformanceparts
With the tilly flywheel, does that mean you can install an electric start kit?
Black 66, Do you have a link for your flywheel holding tool?
I made the tool out of an old clutch
Your Mini bike is now top street legal
Maybe the carb needs a tuning for the bigger cam
It's jetted for a warmed-over 212. It needs more gear out back to get the cam into the optimal RPM range. The engine doesn't have the torque to pull the 5 to 1 ratio with those big tires. In the next video its getting all the good stuff.
I’m surprised the cam didn’t hit something and ended clearancing! That engine doesn’t like any parts swap(s)!
I did have to clearance the cam in a few videos. Check out the 224 playlist ruclips.net/video/45Eu29F8V3g/видео.html
Did you make the flywheel removal too or buy it?
I made it but you can buy them at GoPowerSports
BLACK66🏍💯 just started my 224 I plan on removing governor/sensor, adding header pipe, nibbi carb and mod cam then leaving everything else stock do u think I should be safe?
Throw on a billet flywheel or at least an 8500 RPM rated cast flywheel to be really safe. They are about $39 .
I've seen a lot of these swaps for sale. Quick search lead me to your videos. Looks like they're very easy to work on. Must be pretty cheap too cause there are tons of people doing it.
Wondering why there’s a dead body on the ac unit
Yes, Alien ,but he is just sleeping...
Cool stuff. Thanks 👍👍👍👍
can i buy one of those fly wheel holders or is that something you rigged up?
Not sure if the link has been updated for the cam but The ebay description says not to be used in 224cc?
The cam needs to be clearanced to be used in the 224 as seen in the 224 videos. Check out the 224 playlist. The 224 cam has.550 mains as seen in this video... ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
Can I buy one of yours bikes.If not,can you walk me through the build of one from start to finish,thank you, RJ.from Norfolk VA
I sell some from time to time but I will probably give some away on the channel. If you look at the 224 playlist and others I kind of build the bikes step by step on some builds. Is there a specific bike you're looking at? ruclips.net/video/SaxCCoqJ0RU/видео.html
Do you think the plastic cam will hold up without the governor
I think so, but remember, any of this stuff can break.
Could last years or could last a day lol
11:09 @black66 where do I get that fly wheel torque tool holder from??
Made it from an old clutch
i’ve been looking throughout your channel for the video of removing the 224 external governer but can’t find it can you link it if you made a video out of it please and thanks? Love the videos 🤙🏾
Thanks! Here is the video removing the internal governor ruclips.net/video/1AgrkPH8980/видео.html
Here is the external governor removal ruclips.net/video/lZGNDW9UPfg/видео.html
Did you have to cleAr anything on the cam I got the same set up and going to install
Check out the 224 playlist. It shows the entire build
ruclips.net/video/rF7xAz02INA/видео.html
What size bolts did u use for the Governor gear- oil sensor and the top of the motor
Bolts
This video shows the bolt sizes. Check out the playlist for many more engine combos. ruclips.net/video/m8aOLmuzlE8/видео.html
Im getting a mod 2 cam for Christmas and plan on removing the governor. Im not sure what fly wheel to get. Any suggestions?
Billet is the best but a 10 RPM cast wheel is defiantly an upgrade from the stock wheel with the glued on magnets.
The mod 2 required no clearancing? Or no grinding on the shaft of the cam?
Yes, check out the 224 playlists. It shows the clearance of the MOD 2 ruclips.net/video/SaxCCoqJ0RU/видео.html
im working on rebuilding a vintage bike I found in a backyard.. and Im struggling to decide what brake to use.. it has a brake band but obviously needs to be replaced and im not sure if I should get a new band or upgrade the brake since I plan on slowly progressing the engine.. its similar to your doodlebug or the original mini bike you featured on your channel. its an old MTD mini bike that has 5 inch wheels.. I love your channel besides what I've mentioned above.. very clean and well thought out builds!
Thanks! If you are going to end up going fast I would incorporate some kind of hydraulic disk like on the Doodlebug. If you weren't going to upgrade the engine and were going for an old school vintage build I would keep the old brake . I kept all the old brake stuff on the Azusa bike just to keep it somewhat original. That way if I want to totally bring it back to original I can.
@@Black66 the hydraulic disk was the one i was looking to go with but im not so sure if the doodlebug would work... I've toyed with keeping it vintage as well but without the engine being original I don't have much appeal. Although I still have the original engine, just needs a few things.
@@PopeyesCreeper can't post pictures on here but I put a hydraulic disc on a Murray Track 2 without modifying the bike other than drilling 2 holes to mount the caliper bracket I made; kept the stock band brake parts.
I used a heavy 3/8-inch thick rotor from BMI parts and a complete eBay disc brake assembly that fits a 250cc dual-sport; entire cost about $55.
@@frederickwoods5943 Hell yeah nice, Yeah i was looking around a lot last night and noticed I might not even have to drill any holes in the bike.. the bike is an old 1971 MTD mini Bike, the rear mounts have a bunch of holes drilled out almost looks like it aligns with the doodlebugs.. won't be sure for sure yet. Im still very much considering leaving it stock now and buying a new frame since its so old and unique
That was sick!! wondering what it would be like with the
jackshaft on it? quicker time to the 30mph mark and might
even hit the same speed?? hummm
Watch the next video in this series. It's going to be interesting! I will have it out in a week or so
Great video 📹👍
where did you get the flywheel lock tool from and the name of it?
I made it out of an old clutch. You can buy them at places like GoPowerSports or OMB warehouse
When the cam lobes have that much more duration than stock, car guys say they're more "square".
Great video! Nice phone too! Moto G7 Power?
Black 66 can you do a video on the 223 wildcat vs the predator 224..stock and upgrade.
It was the nylon camshaft why it ran so good 😂
Quick question, where did you purchase the tilli flywheel? The website or size. Appreciate it
it was off of my Tillotson 212e
Was the cam you installed a MOD 2 Hemi or Non Hemi? I was told by tech at a few reputable shops that the Mod2 Non Hemi Cam would not fit and cause serious damage.
You can only install a cam with 0.550 mains in a 224. Check out this video on cams. This is why a non-Hemi cam wont fit. ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
You need to build this thing to the max! Valves, porting polish, flywheel, shave the head, performance piston and rod. Do it all! I need more!
The next video should be interesting. I'm doing some of this.
Should I buy the 212 or 224? I don’t have a huge bike frame but an 80cc fits perfect in it
I would grab the 224.
My CL2 won't fit in my 224. The journal that fits into the flywheel side of the case half hour s too big to insert
The 224 needs a .550 main on the cam. Check out my quick video on cam fitment . ruclips.net/video/6Q_ngCckaJI/видео.html
You should go up a couple sizes on the main jet. Sounds like its bogging to me.
Yes, check out the 224 playlist. I have tried many different carbs and combos on the 224. Thanks for watching!
surprised with the governor removed the top speed was much difference got to play with the gearing
What size bolts did you put in the hole for the governor in the oil sending unit
7/16×20 or 7/16×14 tap for the oil sensor hole.
I seen you had a cam on a other bike for 30 dollars. Are there any other possibly cheaper cams that will fit the predator 224?
Yes as long as it has a .550 mains on the cam like a clone or Hemi,cheaper cams will fit. You might have to clearance them .
SO, unless I am misunderstanding something, or not understanding the numbers and I correct in saying there was virtually NO difference in performance after spending all that money & time??????
Only because the gearing doesn't let the cam get into its proper power band. With a simple gear change, this bike will move out big time! I didn't want to do that gear change in this video because of the stock rod. I wanted it to live on for the next video where I add the gear change and billet parts etc.
Oh I see you did plug it it was just that you set tapped it okay
Hey, black66 do i need rods for 22 lb valve springs? I just installed them. Everything is stock, are they too much? Its a 212 predator
Great vid
Thanks! Have you seen the others in the playlist? ruclips.net/video/oxhroZjFb1A/видео.html
where can i get that cam or what brand and size is it 👍
Hi I have a question.the mod2 cam,did it come out a 212.an can I ask is it a none himi cam are himi cam
Why the mod 2 cam on a minibike? So many better choices
The channel is about trying different combos. The mod 2 is popular even though it's not the best choice. Many more combos coming with this engine.
Where did you find the flywheel at
Pulled it off of my Tillotson 212E/ I have more flywheel videos coming
so when u do the exhaust side u cut the vid wat did u do after tightening the intake side of things
I did a time warp into another segment. Time machine...😃
I took it all apart and put it all back together and now I can't crank it I can't pull the Rope what did I do wrong
A little pocket porting on the heads should be good for 2 to 3 HP.
Is the cam a predator non hemi cam ?
No. It's a clone cam.
What size nut and bolt did you use for the oil sensor hole that you didnt have to tap it. And no the video doesnt show what size nut and bolt you used i rewatched 4 times.
I show the bolt sizes in this Predator 224 video. And yes I show it. ruclips.net/video/AQs3lI9buIQ/видео.html
How long of a chain do need 2. Straight chain my ct200 u with a 50 sprocket in back and 10 in front
You will need around 5 foot of chain. I'm running about 5 and a half foot of chain with a 60 rear sprocket on mine.
Where did you get that header pipe?
Any plans on E85 or E98 testing? Maybe a "Real" nitrous kit instead of the little cartridge's?
I would like to try all that stuff. We would use Methanol in the 5 horse Briggs back in the day. I would like to jet a carb for that again.
You give good tips.
Do you have to remove the governor internally or can you get away removing just the arm/linkage externally?
What app do you use to track your times
I use digiHUD on the phone along with the camera GPS for top speed and a Dragy performance meter for 0 to 30
Did they stop making this cam can you send me the link if you find it
I added a new link for an updated MOD 4 cam
So did the rod ever explode? Putting one in mine.
No, this engine went on to make many more videos and part combo test. Check out the 224 playlist ruclips.net/video/rF7xAz02INA/видео.html
@@Black66 how long did it run with the stock rod? It looks like you put a billet one in right away? I have the same cam pre clearances for the 224... I'm trying to decide if I put it in. Don't want to bother with the rod if I don't have to 😈.
@@rippinrogers If your going to run a cam I would use a billet or high RPM cast flywheel and swap out the rod.
What size are the screws for the governer gear hole and little pin hole
How do you know what parts to use on the 224? I have a 212 non hemi Billit flywheel, And I was wondering if I could use that on the predator 224? Thanks!
The 224 engine takes Honda /clone parts. Flywheels for the Honda/Clone engine fit. Yours has a different taper
@@Black66 thank you!
What pipe is that? Need one for the Coleman ct200u ex!
Here is the link www.gopowersports.com/header-pipe-coleman-200-mega-moto-212-w-gasket/
Thanks so much!
What did you use exactly to plug oil sensor hole ? I'm putting together a list for my predator 224cc allready have whole thing stripped down lol
7/16×20 or 7/16×14 tap for the oil sensor hole. 1/4×20 screw for the governor arm hole and the press in shaft hole
@@Black66 thank you sir ! I've enjoy your videos and have learned allot bud 💪
You have link for flywheel holding tool and 7 degree key?
Links are in the description of the videos.
Hey black can you incorporate in a rpm gauge so we can see how much RPMs your engines and builds turn out I think that will be a great addition to your test Videos
Im working on that
@@Black66 and you thought it was just Fred Woods telling you to spend a lowsy 20-spot on a tach 😃
The TUSK tach/hour meter is $18.49 on eBay (vendor here in Virginia) and it ships for free. Ok, enuf raggin' . .
@@frederickwoods5943LOL. You guys are funny! I have had a tach/maintenance meter sitting on the shelf for the last couple years. Just never hooked it up. I always use the gear ratio calculator to figure out my RPM. Put in tire height and gear ratio once I know my top speed and I get pretty close. But I hear Ya, it would be cool to see the RPM live .
@@Black66 join my FB group ( Modified Mini Bikes ) I have a tachometer mount for you . Come share all your wisdom 😄 . When something is to long to explain , I just refer them to you videos 👍
Tillotson 212 "E"? What's the E mean? How's it differ from the regular 212?
Electric start
@@Black66 Oooo-WHEE! Uptown minibike! 😂
I just purchased a 224 predator what carb and clutch do you have on that ?any help would be appreciated thanks
Here is the videos series with the mods so far. They are always changing ruclips.net/video/oxhroZjFb1A/видео.html
Did you have to do any clearancing for the cam?
Check out the Predator 224 playlist. It shows the entire build ruclips.net/video/XNvqdYl_haw/видео.html
Port the head after billet Parts
How did I have a slide carb on with governor still in? Don’t you have to remove the govenor if you install a slide carb?
Check out the playlist on the channel for many governor removal videos ruclips.net/video/avdJE34nFIU/видео.html
Will the 224cc motor blow without the governor stock?
Nothing is certain but it should be fine.
True, thank you
Do you have the link for the clutch
Yes, the link for the clutch is in the description of the video.